Fly Team 29 Handling and Seatpost Issues.- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Fly Team 29 Handling and Seatpost Issues.

    I have some time on the bike now and could not get used to 100mm travel up front. I reduced my Fox to 80 which improved single track and climbing performance. Also, My Thomson post fits looser in the seat tube compared to other frame it's been used on and cause minor slipping. Anyone else notice the aforementioned conditions?

  2. #2
    West Chester, PA
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    Are you sure you have a 27.2 post and not a 27.0 ? Somebody else on here made that mistake before IIRC. My 27.2 elite fits perfect.

  3. #3
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    I had a 27.2 EC90 that slipped and creaked a lot. No, it wasn't a 27.0 Figured the resin shrunk a little more than usual during curing and the seat tube is slightly oversized.

    Replaced it with a Thomson which slipped a little. Final fix was to get rid of the cheapo seat post clamp made of of extremely soft aluminum and replace it with a Thomson seat clamp...I think it and maybe very slightly oversized seat tubes are the two major culprits. I now have no creaking and no slipping.

    FYI, there's an eBay seller who re-anodizes Thomson clamps and other parts. Got mine in Chris King blue to match my hubs :-D

  4. #4
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    To fix your seatpost problem get some carbon assembly paste (its not just for carbon). It is a grease that has microspheres in it that distort under compression and keep your seatpost from slipping. Its a really great product that I use on all my handlebars/stems and seatposts.
    2015 Niner Jet 9 Carbon
    2014 Focus Raven 27R
    2017 Lynskey GR250
    2016 Niner BSB
    1987 Haro RS1

  5. #5
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    I do use paste. Carbon paste will not make up for a mismatch in seat post and seat tube sizing due to manufacturing tolerances.

  6. #6
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    Handling Comments 100 vs 80 Fork

    Curious to hear opinions. The 100 just would not work for my tight single track.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikenut316
    Curious to hear opinions. The 100 just would not work for my tight single track.
    Lowering the fork to 80mm is going to improve weight distribution and give you a steeper head angle, so it is going to handle better in tight singletrack. The thing is you trade off some descending stability and travel to do it. There is no dead set rule that says you must run 100mm. You should set it to where it works best for the type of riding you are doing and personal perference. Most frames can work well +/- 20mm of travel on the fork. More than 20mm and you can throw the geometry too far out of whack.
    2015 Niner Jet 9 Carbon
    2014 Focus Raven 27R
    2017 Lynskey GR250
    2016 Niner BSB
    1987 Haro RS1

  8. #8
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    I have no issues with mine on either 100mm or seatpost I did go to a ti seatpost but didn't have a problem with the one it came with, Also I am running wider riser bar which I prefer.

  9. #9
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    I found that i like 80mm better. After some research, I put chalk on the post and purchased a new clamp. Post is still slipping. I am ordering a Thomson clamp. If that does'nt work, my last resort is a shim.

  10. #10
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    Yep the 80mm stem should help I forgot I changed my stem to a 70mm from the get go never even used the one that came with it.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by synnie
    Yep the 80mm stem should help I forgot I changed my stem to a 70mm from the get go never even used the one that came with it.
    I was referring to 80mm fork travel not the stem length.

  12. #12
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    Yep I had the same seatpost slippage problem, there is a thread on it not that long ago with suggestions. Seat posts fit loose and stock clamp doesn't work, it bottoms out before getting tight.

    I found handling got better once I lowered the stem as far as it would go and then flipped it over, so it was a drop rather than a rise.

    Oh and the stock bars are very narrow for me to feel any control. Went to a wider low rise bar.

    Enjoy
    Mike

  13. #13
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    Post Still Slipping!

    I tried removing the grease, using chalk, a new Thomson clamp and now a shim made from a soda can. Never thought I would be using a soda can as a bandaid on my Ti frame. I contacted BD to see if this is a warranty issue. Waiting for a response.

  14. #14
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    Reba XX to 80 mm?

    This is my first 29er and I am not real comfortable with how high the front end is. I think 80mm of travel would help, has anybody converted the Reba XX to 80? I am assuming it would top out at a lower position and help get the front end down a bit. I found a tech manual on the Sram site but it looked a bit complicated and i am a bit nervous about cracking open a brand new $700 shock.

  15. #15
    West Chester, PA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny_T
    This is my first 29er and I am not real comfortable with how high the front end is. I think 80mm of travel would help, has anybody converted the Reba XX to 80? I am assuming it would top out at a lower position and help get the front end down a bit. I found a tech manual on the Sram site but it looked a bit complicated and i am a bit nervous about cracking open a brand new $700 shock.
    Did you flip your stem yet ? Might want to try that first. The surgery on the reba to change the travel is very easy if you're mechanically inclined. Just read those instructions a few times before you start.

    This video shows how to get the air spring assembly out and back in. Obviously you'l be skipping all the rebuild steps. At 2:09 you can see the spacer on the shaft. IIRC you put 2 spacers on for 80mm, 1 for 100mm and none for 120mm.

    http://www.youtube.com/user/SRAMtech#p/u/19/W6Mm7r-Pc0g

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