Fantom 29er pro sl Rear Rack?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Fantom 29er pro sl Rear Rack?

    Will this work? Topeak Explorer Bicycle Rack with Disc Brake Mounts: http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Explore.../dp/B000FIAVHE

    Someone w/ a 29er had suggested it, but I'm a noob and don't know about this clause: "Fits frames with threaded rack mounting holes on the dropouts. "

  2. #2
    Pimpmobile
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    There aren't any threads or mounting bosses on the Fantom frames.

    You may be better off with a seatpost clamp rack something like this. . .

    http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/133...ack-V-Type.htm
    Last edited by HamfisT; 09-10-2010 at 07:12 AM.
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  3. #3
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    thanks... guess that was one of my last options as those things can move around.

  4. #4
    Bushwacker
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    I just mounted a similar one of these on my wifes comuter bike. Her's doesn't have mounting holes on the dropouts either. I attached the front supports right to the seat post clamp stud. Works great. It would also be very easy to frabricate a couple aluminum bands to attach the front supports to the dropouts if you want.

    I've also had the seat post clamp-on style rack. It works well but limited to pretty light loads. The type of rack that attaches to the frame carries a much heavier load. My wife's rack has a 55 lb load rating. I don't think I'd put more than 5lbs or so on the seat post type rack.

    On sale at Performance bikes:

    http://www.performancebike.com/bikes..._1023810_-1___


    This is the exact one I installed on my wife's bike:

    http://www.walmart.com/ip/Zefal-Disc...-5660/14264319
    Last edited by Starkonian; 09-10-2010 at 01:41 PM.
    When I'm not windsurfing, I'm mountain biking

  5. #5
    S*it Happens!
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    Your bike has this rear brake hole…so, you can use this rack. It’s the same color as your bike and can hold 110 lbs and it’s on sale for $29 Click Me! If you read the review, it comes with an arm meant for mounting in that location.


    Product Description

    "Patent Pending Design specifically for use on Road/Mountain bikes - Does not require braze-on mounts or threaded dropouts - Unique foot design allows rack to be mounted 4cm behind the axle, allowing for improved heel clearance on road bike length chainstays, or clearance for a disc caliper.Includes pump peg - Fits 26" - 700C wheels - Weight = 575g - Load Capacity = 110lb (50kg)"

    Here is the review...

    "Mine came with the optional rear brake mount arm in addition to the upper braze-on mount arms. Theoretically you don't need ANY braze-ons with this rack. My bike has all the braze-ons. This rack sets far enough back to allow me to put grocery bag panniers on my 415mm chainstay roadbike with no heel clearance problems. I tested it with both Axioms Hunter grocery pannier & Jandd's grocery pannier. My bike's lower mounts use thicker than normal mounting bolts which I had to buy as the rack only comes with the smaller size bolts. Once I had those, it all bolted on easily."


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  6. #6
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    crap... bought it and just noticed this pic:



    i was wondering how the arms rotated to fit the front notch but they seem to be more for the sides.

    i'll fiddle w/ it, but amazon is ok for returns.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaalllen
    crap... bought it and just noticed this pic:



    i was wondering how the arms rotated to fit the front notch but they seem to be more for the sides.

    i'll fiddle w/ it, but amazon is ok for returns.
    That's not the same rack...

    I’ve been researching racks as I would like to get one. I have never seen this rack in real life. However, I notice three holes in the photo that I posted. I would imagine you would just remove one of the rod mounts and place it in the center. Then replace the braze-on rods, with the one made for the brake mount hole.
    Last edited by Moto Rider; 09-14-2010 at 05:42 AM.
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  8. #8
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    Thanks MotoRider! Shipping took a while and it's now installed.

    Two screws drop from the top middle thru a non-pictured arm. That arm is meant to attach behind a v-brake mount. The bike lacks v-brakes so I had to make a run to the hardware store. The pictured blocks/tubes were on there and had to go.

    The bottom mounts using the QR skewer. I screwed up a quick release spring in the process as the tip went into the hole and kept twisting in and in. Next spring i'll be more careful. It was also the first time I had removed the back QR. No grease at all.

    Future thoughts: there's very little clearance between the locking nut and the SB8. I'll probably visit the hw store again and find a flat top screw and thread it from the bottom to have the bolts no where near the tire.

  9. #9
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    The topeak frame rack (for disc) mentioned did the trick for me on my F-Pro29 SL.

    I tried the post mounted rack for about a month (daily commute 20 miles a day) but found it to be too squirrilly. It ALWAYS rotated on bumps, mainly rubbed on the tire but one day the lower pertion of the bungee support got sucked into my freewheel. Not sure how that happened but must have contacted a spoke.

    No bike damage but I took this off right away and got the Topeak frame mounted rack. Frame racks have more weight capcity anyway. This took a bit of work to figure out. I used a seat post clamp with rack mounts for the top two points see http://www.amazon.com/Inline-Seat-Cl.../dp/B001JT68FW

    I used inexpensive P-clamps from hardware store for the bottom. Tubus racks has nice frame clamps too. This approach is very solid and I kinda like how this rack extends away from the wheels near the hub. I don't ever want anything caught in the wheel again! Your approach sound finr too but I just didn't want to use the skewer for mounting a rack. I wasn't sure if a stock skewer was adequate.

  10. #10
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    Motobecane Fantom 29er with Axiom Rack

    I finally got around to installing an Axiom rack on my Motobecane Fantom 29er.

    At first I tried using the single attachment to the brake bridge, and while this worked well enough it felt unsatisfactory for two reasons:
    - There's only about 5/8" of clearance between the tire and the rack at the center, so to maintain as much clearance as possible I would need to mount the attachment bolt upside down, and would still probably lose 1/8" of clearance.
    - The center mount attachment bracket is a fairly thin piece of aluminum (not nearly as beefy as the dowels used to attach to normal eyelets), and given that it only mounts to the center brake bridge hole it doesn't feel as secure or stable as one might like. Also, on my 19" frame the bracket wasn't quite as long as one might want, so the rack ended up tilted forward.

    Instead, I also bought the Axiom seatpost clamp with integrated eyelets, and moved the rack attachment blocks around so they come off the top of the rack. This didn't take away any clearance, and ended up being very stable. I'll probably hacksaw off the excess bracket dowels when I have a chance. I did lose out on the QR clamp, but that's not an issue (if it becomes one, Botranger makes a QR clamp with eyelets).

    Things to note:
    - There's a limit to how far back the rack can be adjusted. If you try to make it totally level, the bracket attached to the right skewer will start to interfere with the rear derailleur cable. I ended up bending the bracket a tiny bit to reduce the interference. Note to Axiom: your bottom attachment brackets should come up 1/4" higher.
    - For the upper eyelet attachments there are multiple ways they could be mounted, but only one of these works well without the need to bend things around.
    - The factory skewer seems long enough, but only just.
    - The Axiom seatpost clamp tightens from the front, so I greased the area between the clamp and the seat tube to distribute the clamping force.




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