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  1. #1
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    2020 CF full suspension Sram AXS 29er

    Just went full in for the 2020 Motobecane 29er Full Carbon Full Suspension HAL Boost CF 29er AXS SRAM AXS EAGLE XO1 1X12
    They need to come up with a better naming system for the bikes since that is a mouthful there. Unless you write out everything the bike comes with, you could be talking about 4 or 5 bikes leaving out some detail there.

    Save Up to 60% Off LTD QTYS *ALL BIKES FREE SHIP 48 LTD QTYS of these SRAM AXS Eagle Wireless shifting 5.5 INCH/ 140mm Travel Carbon Fiber Full Suspension 27+ Boost Mountain bikes Carbon Fiber*ALL BIKES FREE SHIP 48 LTD QTYS of these 5.5 INCH/ 140mm

    Figured if I was spending $2.5k and pushing into the $3k bikes, I might as well just get the best they offer, which is a lot, and cry once.

    I tried getting some help narrowing it down here: https://forums.mtbr.com/26-27-5-29-p...e-1118821.html but you guessed it if you have ever strayed off the Moto subforum for help, I was met with a lot of resistance in purchasing a Motobecane anything. Even after I gave up there I still did hours of comparing details and feel good about going through with the purchase. Back and forth for hours with several Specialized Stumpjumpers from their low end 29 Alloy ST up to the S-Works Sram AXS 29 and the Motos and I am satisfied with the "wonky" geometry as it is called and if a $10.5k S-Works ST has it all wrong, then at $3.6k, I guess it's a decent discount we are getting for what we get. People complaining about the old geometry on the upper end Motobecanes seem to only see what they want to see. When presented with facts on how those expensive models are pretty current, they will just back pedal and then go after the customer service or just repeat that the bikes are all wrong without giving details on why that is the case.

    There is literally nothing about this bike available online except one person in here posting two pictures and when I PMed him about sizing, no answer for days. I will get plenty of pics up and also try to give the best review I can when it gets here. What really hurts the BD site is it's so outdated and cluttered. If they changed their site to how current sites look, it would probably help them out a ton but I guess sales are coming in enough that they just don't care. It would literally take a couple days and a beginner to change everything over to an updated site. I did it hastily in a couple hours for my own business website and the only thing I see that would be difficult about theirs is there is a ton of pictures but it would all be copy and paste into a more modern style site.

    Only issues I found is not putting the greatest bar, stem, and dropper post on there but for the price, it'd hard to complain. The dropper post will probably be swapped out for a 125mm or 150mm and I'll possibly swap out the DT Swiss 3 pawl hub to the 54t ratchet. Maybe change brakes too if I really want to keep hurting my wallet.
    Last edited by Surfacecreations; 10-27-2019 at 09:50 PM.

  2. #2
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    Funny, I just replied to that thread tonight, calling their bullshit. I got a HAL Team LTD in August and absolutely love it. I took the dropper apart and lubed it, replaced the dropper lever and now its great. I wont be swapping it out. I am planning on a set off PNW bars and possibly their stem or another soon. Got some great xpedo magnesium flat pedals off experciticy for $47. About to put a DHF 27.5x2.8 on front and orfered a set of boost 29 DT wheels for $299 for summer when the mud gets hard. Absolutely have no complaints, quality is just as nice as a buddys $5k trek and built in same factory, finish is top notch too. I did check everything and grease/lube a few things better. I will post pics when my phone is not dead. Ride on!

  3. #3
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    OTOH, deals like this are out there, too.

    https://www.jensonusa.com/sales-page...price-discount
    2018 Surly Karate Monkey 'dingle' speed
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  4. #4
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    Your wheelset comes with a dT 370 rear hub. It is possible to change that to a ratchetting hub to take 36 or 54 tooth ratchets. It can be very hard to use the special tool to get the hub apart.





    If you're looking at a second wheelset look closely at inner rim width as you shop. Your oem set is 30mm inner. I'd use that for 2.35 tires. For wider tires I'd look for 45mm.

  5. #5
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    I have no complaints about freewheel ratchet on my bike

  6. #6
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    The bike they had was a grand more and was nx group plusnot DT wheels or 2020 Pike forks

  7. #7
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    Haven't taken it on any trails yet, just rode around on the asphalt and grass to get a feel. Going through curbs like they aren't even there is fun compared to a 26" wheel that would be a OTB for sure. I actually think the eten-i dropper post is pretty decent, a 125mm or 150mm probably would be slightly better to really drop it out of the way better though. So long riding on those really steep declines/accents and having to worm out of the way of that high seat post. I can't wait to try this dropper out. The bar might need to be changed to a higher rise from the 20mm I think. I am looking at a Spank Vibrocore in 30mm or 50mm. I am 5'10" 31.5" inseam and the medium bike fits really nice though. That bar might be what makes it perfect. I would have liked a little lower standover too but I don't think it will be an issue. It's still lower than the 30.629" it says on the BD website for medium frame. It's 29.25" measured in centerline with the crank or 29" measured at the front of the chain ring.

    The bikes brakes and seat are decent and will probably keep both on. Grips might even be OK but since I was riding with some foam ones, these feel foreign and of course harder. I will know with use with riding gloves later on trail if I want to get something softer. The riding comfort is off the charts from the dual shocks though, so squishy since I've been on a hardtail so long. I put Raceface Chester clones on and they are biting nice. Weight w/ pedals is right at 29 lbs. All the reviews about the AXS are correct, it's like butter changing gears. Some people said they had a little trouble adjusting to it but I found it really easy to adapt to it.

    As far as the swap from 3 pawl 370 to the 54T 240 ratchet, there are both tools on Ebay for much less than the DTswiss brand ones and a Zconmotarich brand on Amazon that makes the ratchet kit for less too. Might go that way later.

    Really there is nothing negative to report and after riding on the Stumpjumper ST Expert 29 a couple times prior to pulling the trigger on this, which is pretty approximate to this bike with the exception of the AXS on this, I am very happy with the purchase.
    Last edited by Surfacecreations; 10-28-2019 at 10:47 AM.

  8. #8
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    I got some xpedoo magnesium flats and love them, looking at slightly shorter stem and pnw bars with free grips in hopes of alievating some hand issues from carpel tunnel surgery that make my hands og numb fairly quickly. Getting ready to go to a 2.8 on front just for kicks and have a set of dt1900 29er rims on way just because they were too cheap to pass up. will probably get 203mm disk for front and put old front on back of 29s. plan on running 29s in summer when its dryer and fattie 27s in muck. Oregon has pretty much every condition that exists constantly changing. absolutely dont regret a thing except waiting for 2 months to do it while i listened to ney sayers and did research. happy trails on your moto

  9. #9
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    Wanted a little more comfort so got Odi Rogue lock on grips, more grippy and softer than what it came with. Then a new seat, a Cloud-9 Kush Plus Sport narrow, it's memory foam so very squishy for such a thin and narrow saddle.
    After taking it out some more I don't think it needs a higher bar. The foam inside the Spank I was thinking about might help though for bumps. I'll know for sure once it gets tested some on trails.
    Also got Suntek matte finish PPF and covered a lot of the frame. Then made a custom formed Kydex down tube protector which looks pretty OEM.

  10. #10
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    You are a very wise shopper. And you probably are in the realm of $5k+ bikes comparatively speaking. If you add up the parts only you'll probably find they total more than the price you paid for the complete bike. That was the biggest selling point for me. Although I've changed some parts for customizing a tailored fit to me; I love my HalBoost 29er!
    Strong, Light, Cheap; Pick Two.

  11. #11
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    Some pics since the BD website leaves a lot to be desired.

    CF full suspension Sram AXS 29er-fyzkjgz.jpg
    CF full suspension Sram AXS 29er-qheoywf.jpg
    CF full suspension Sram AXS 29er-wl1wkbl.jpg
    CF full suspension Sram AXS 29er-tgzbjda.jpg
    CF full suspension Sram AXS 29er-pwigyti.jpg

  12. #12
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    looks like we got same bike with the exception of carbon frame and 29's, mine is Team LTD with aluminum and same dt1900 but in 27. I have a set of dt1900 29s on the way, for $249 it was too good not to try them. Figure I will run 29s in summer/dryer months and fat 27s in the muck during PNW soggy winters. I have bars and grips on the way, going to try PNW and see if their 10 deg backsweep cuts down on wrist pain.
    what size tires came on the 29s? looks like there is a bit more room in front but back is close to max in width.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riding Dad View Post
    what size tires came on the 29s? looks like there is a bit more room in front but back is close to max in width.

    It came with 2.3" Maxxis High Roller II measured at 2.25". I measured 3.6" front and 3.4" rear of space so there's plenty of room to go up in size for both.

    I thought about getting a set of fat 27.5s too but will probably just try to keep some money in the wallet and recuperate from this for a little bit. Just two weeks prior to getting this bike I bought a whole other wheel set for my other 26" bike so I could swap back and forth between the 2.6" Mountain King tires for the trails and 1.75" Country Rock road tires for night road riding. This bike makes the whole trail set of wheels obsolete now.

    I almost pulled the trigger on the aluminum frame one too since they were coming in a little lighter on the more expensive ones. I am so used to riding my 26" Fly Pro at 22 lbs, I figured it would be an easy transition with some of them not much more with even being full suspension and the larger tires. In the end I just figured I don't buy every couple years so I went in with a little heavier(28.5 lbs) and a lot more expensive to get the best they had to offer.

    I've been riding almost every night now just taking it on/off and into curbs, down /up ditches and as much rough terrain I can around to get used to it before getting it onto real trails. Going from a 560mm width bar to a 760mm width bar is weird. It moves slower than the light 26er I have but I am now able to just roll over stuff that would destroy both the 26" bike and me. It feels very unnatural how much more smooth the ride is compared to the hardtail for sure.
    Last edited by Surfacecreations; 4 Weeks Ago at 05:30 PM.

  14. #14
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    First trail riding today and it went pretty well. Rolling over a lot of stuff that normally would have give a 26" wheel a lot more resistance. The AXS shifting went pretty well too.
    The dropper post really was nice getting out of the way going down some steep declines too. Still think a 150mm would be better suited for a medium frame. That is one issue I can say that bigger name brands do is put a longer dropper post on the larger frame you get. Throwing the 100mm on there is nice but they could have sprang for like $20-30 and just tacked it onto the price we pay.
    Only real issue, and not Motobecanes or Srams fault, was the plastic cover for the derailleur clutch got smashed on the way home when the bikes all fell over from not being strapped well enough. It looks like it's not needed at all but seeing it cracked bothered me for it being so new and not even a trail crash but another bike falling on it. Found the replacement on Ebay for $17.50. Pretty expensive for a tiny plastic part but I guess you got to pay to play.

    For sure going to still change out the guts of the 3 pawl hub for a 36 or 54 tooth ratchet.

    Forgot to add, the first place we stopped at, Balm Boyette Scrub Preserve before heading to Alifia River state park, there was a family with like 7 or 8 Motobecanes and I think a Gravity. Never seen one in the wild and finally when I did it was a whole pack of them.
    Last edited by Surfacecreations; 4 Days Ago at 11:43 PM.

  15. #15
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    I too switched/came from a 26" hardtail which was lighter and soon realized that I could go faster on my Moto 29 full-susser since I was able to carry more speed on downhills and other sections of trail before any uphills which got me up those uphjills faster in higher gears. My overall times on Strava show the same- faster overall times on the same routes I rode the 26er on.
    Strong, Light, Cheap; Pick Two.

  16. #16
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    It's all there in that video that b1888 posted above but the pawl to ratchet swap went over fairly easily. It's pretty noisy but the pedal engages almost instantly now. Getting the pawl ring nut turned out to be not as bad as I was ready for. I put the tool in a vice and then roped a short 2x4 to the wheel to gain extra leverage and was able to do it by myself.

    Video that gave me the idea for use that 2x4: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avnD0mLtoR0
    Took like 5 seconds to release that ringnut and not the 3 minutes he says. It did make a loud bang when it released though which I was ready for after watching him talk about it in the video.

    I bought both the Ebay ring nut tools and saved $95.00 there over the DTswiss brand ones.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/DT-Swiss-3-...53.m2749.l2649

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/DT-Swiss-Hu...53.m2749.l2649

    Then the shim ring, bushing and ratchet ring nut from Bike Shop.com for $17 and saved another $10 over Amazon pricing.

    XD Driver still came from Amazon, they are all about the same $53 no matter where you buy.

    Then the 54t ratchet from Ebay as well for $53 saving another $51
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Star-Ratche...53.m2749.l2649

    Those star ratchet kits are the only thing that might be an issue but after reading countless reviews of other having no issues with using non OEM DT swiss ratchets, I think I will be OK.

    All total it was about $190 but I really could have left out the $20 ratchet tool since it just needs to be hand tightened and the pedaling will get it good and tight. So this could all be done for $170.00

  17. #17
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    I guess I got lucky, my Moto had the DT wheel set and came with a 54 tooth out of the box.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riding Dad View Post
    I guess I got lucky, my Moto had the DT wheel set and came with a 54 tooth out of the box.
    Wait what? So they are 350 or 240 hubs? I know they change some stuff here and there on the BD site and don't let that be known til you get it and open the box but that would be a nice surprise. 8 or so years ago on my last bike they changed the paint scheme on the bike but I liked it better so it wasn't an issue. The brakes also came replaced with more expensive Avids too.
    That's good that you got the upgrade but man they are all over the place with specs. Even the measurements on the geometry is all wrong. I know for sure the standover is less than what they say on the site so I'm sure everything else is off here and there too.
    I guess if they are a little disorganized but make these untold changes in our favor it isn't a bad thing.

  19. #19
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    I would be willing to bet DT put the free hub on, not BD but just guessing. Do all 340 hubs come 3 paul?

  20. #20
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    Is anyone riding a medium in either the alu or carbon? If so, I am interested in the standover height, say, at front of the chainring.

    I know these bikes have relatively low bb height (which I prefer).

    I wish BD published more comprehensive (and accurate) geometry charts. Without test rides or demos, this info is critical.

  21. #21
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    It shouldn't be bothering me but out of boredom on a Sunday and after reading more about why those high dollar frames are better geometry I started looking at the competition. I like to feel good about a purchase and in the back of my head I still needed to qualify this as a good purchase due to all the poopoo these bikes get in here.

    Digging deeper into the exact frame geometry when measured, I am also finding that the specs given on BD site are pretty off. I was looking at Yeti SB150 frame back and forth with the HAL CF boost frame as a comparison. I used they way Yeti measured their frames, from their own site, as a frame of reference since it seems each manufacturer does it slightly differently apparently.

    Motobecane HAL CF medium frame:

    stated standover 778mm actual 749mm
    stated reach 428mm actual 454mm
    stated chainstay 442mm actual 442mm
    stated wheelbase 1195mm actual 1195mm

    Yeti SB150 medium frame:

    stated standover 729mm
    stated reach 459mm
    stated chainstay 432mm
    stated wheelbase 1224mm

    So a 0.75" lower standover height, 0.2" longer reach, 0.39" shorter chainstay and 1.14" longer wheelbase gets you "perfection". The Godlike reviewed SB150 is so close to the geometry of this "wonky and bike shaped object" that it makes you wonder if Yeti realizes they are also pushing out garbage framed full suspension bikes onto their consumers? Somebody let the professional reviewers/youtubers know this info stat!

    I'm sure if you go through every highly reviewed "current geometry" bike that everybody gushes over you would find very similar results but I really don't think that will make a difference to some people.

    If only Bikes direct would separate out the higher end bikes and market them on a different site. All that would need to be done is change the downtube sticker for something new and keep those bikes on a different site. It would give them that aura that some bikes have attained as something more special than other internet only bikes. Then throw a couple of them at reviewers so they get some publicity. We all know how much reviewers give such high regards to any product they get for free. It's also pretty much unanimous that grouping such great bikes with low end bargains all in the same webpage really is not helping them here.

    BD/MOTO if you are reading this, update your image!!

    Edit: Ha, looks like I answered your question there about size, Ultra. I was typing that wall of text when you asked.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by UltraMTB1 View Post
    Is anyone riding a medium in either the alu or carbon? If so, I am interested in the standover height, say, at front of the chainring.

    I know these bikes have relatively low bb height (which I prefer).

    I wish BD published more comprehensive (and accurate) geometry charts. Without test rides or demos, this info is critical.
    When I head to the shop next, I will measure. point of reffernce, my LTD aluminum is 43 ie a medium and fits me perfectly, 510-511 wear 34x 30 pants size. I would check it now but my kid is crashed and its 28 deg with 150 ft sprint to shop in sweats....no way!

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surfacecreations View Post
    It shouldn't be bothering me but out of boredom on a Sunday and after reading more about why those high dollar frames are better geometry I started looking at the competition. I like to feel good about a purchase and in the back of my head I still needed to qualify this as a good purchase due to all the poopoo these bikes get in here.

    Digging deeper into the exact frame geometry when measured, I am also finding that the specs given on BD site are pretty off. I was looking at Yeti SB150 frame back and forth with the HAL CF boost frame as a comparison. I used they way Yeti measured their frames, from their own site, as a frame of reference since it seems each manufacturer does it slightly differently apparently.

    Motobecane HAL CF medium frame:

    stated standover 778mm actual 749mm
    stated reach 428mm actual 454mm
    stated chainstay 442mm actual 442mm
    stated wheelbase 1195mm actual 1195mm

    Yeti SB150 medium frame:

    stated standover 729mm
    stated reach 459mm
    stated chainstay 432mm
    stated wheelbase 1224mm

    So a 0.75" lower standover height, 0.2" longer reach, 0.39" shorter chainstay and 1.14" longer wheelbase gets you "perfection". The Godlike reviewed SB150 is so close to the geometry of this "wonky and bike shaped object" that it makes you wonder if Yeti realizes they are also pushing out garbage framed full suspension bikes onto their consumers? Somebody let the professional reviewers/youtubers know this info stat!

    I'm sure if you go through every highly reviewed "current geometry" bike that everybody gushes over you would find very similar results but I really don't think that will make a difference to some people.

    If only Bikes direct would separate out the higher end bikes and market them on a different site. All that would need to be done is change the downtube sticker for something new and keep those bikes on a different site. It would give them that aura that some bikes have attained as something more special than other internet only bikes. Then throw a couple of them at reviewers so they get some publicity. We all know how much reviewers give such high regards to any product they get for free. It's also pretty much unanimous that grouping such great bikes with low end bargains all in the same webpage really is not helping them here.

    BD/MOTO if you are reading this, update your image!!

    Edit: Ha, looks like I answered your question there about size, Ultra. I was typing that wall of text when you asked.
    You're missing the key ingredients there, head tube angle and effective seat tube angle. According to the Motobecane USA site the HT is 65* and the effective seat tube angle is 74.7* (this will change based on your preferred saddle height). That's right in the ballpark HT wise, but a bit slack seat tube wise. It's actually right about where my 2016 Remedy 9.8 is.
    .
    I wonder about the anti-rise (brake jack), anti squat, and overall suspension kinematics. I'd like to think that you can only screw those up so much these days, but riding a few different bikes has disabused me of that notion. A bike that pogos when you're climbing and suffers from brake jack when you're slamming it into fast, rough corners just isn't that much fun. Does the shock really come with the head at the bottom like that? Can it be flipped? I'd hate to have the climb switch right on top of the bottom bracket.
    .
    Meow you just need some carbon wheels. . . . .
    . . . . . . . .

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by scatterbrained View Post
    You're missing the key ingredients there, head tube angle and effective seat tube angle.
    I wonder about the anti-rise (brake jack), anti squat, and overall suspension kinematics. Does the shock really come with the head at the bottom like that? Can it be flipped? I'd hate to have the climb switch right on top of the bottom bracket.
    .
    Meow you just need some carbon wheels. . . . .

    I'll try to figure out how to get those angles measured to see if what they say is accurate.

    I used this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cY2j2gDiZQY and just tried exactly that as a way to test the brake squat and it barely moved unlike that bike in the video looking like it went through a good portion of it's travel. I have the shock at 150 lbs because I like it a little squishy although it should be at my weight of 175 lbs according to the correct setup.

    The shock can't be flipped. Frame is formed very tight around that shock. That was the first thing I was looking at when unboxing. It's in a tight spot for sure down there but I'm not locking it out at all since everything I'm riding is up and down pretty quick. We take what we get in FL and big/long climbs are not it.

    Since frame and crank arms were CF, I figured I'd keep it going and was going to get a carbon bar but now seeing so many broken and some stabbing people including nice high dollar ones, I am staying aluminum and might swap to the Spank OOZY 780 trail vibrocore.
    The CF wheels just seem overdoing it. The bike is light enough as it is so unless I see some smoking deal out there, that will probably not happen.

  25. #25
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    Figured it out quick. I used an Android phone app and measured HTA at 65* and seat tube at 75*.

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