Looking for welder to add rear disc brake mount- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Looking for welder to add rear disc brake mount

    Hi,

    I'm looking for a welder to add a rear disc brake mount to an old Trek 930 steel frame in the Lexington/Boston area.

    Recommendations would be appreciated.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Any competent welding shop with a brazing torch can do it, but I'd just look up local bike frame builders. Not a hard thing to do, just want to make sure they align it right.

    I looked at doing this to a Trek 820 frame, and when I put a disc brake wheelset in, I only had about 1mm clearance between the 160mm rotor and the frame. Considering the cost of frames vs. how much it would cost to put on a brake tab, dimple the frame and re-paint, I figured I'd just buy a new frame. Long run, it was a lot easier, and I actually like the new frame a lot more.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  3. #3
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    Try checking in with a bike shop( Cycle Loft, Burlington), would get some answers.

  4. #4
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    Hottubes in Shirley.
    Do the math.

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  6. #6
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    I tried Hottubes and they are too busy. Frank the welder is too far. Any other suggestions?

    Thanks.

  7. #7
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    Seems a lot of work for a basic frame. New frame or just a new fork?

  8. #8
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    The issue is I require an XS frame which are very hard to find in steel 26". The main reason for wanting disc brakes is it's much easier to find light wheels and better wet braking performance.

  9. #9
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    Done some looking for said frame? Seems there would be lots. XS , steel, disc, 1/1/8th head tube? Jamis dragonfly, womens comes in 14,16 and 18" 26" plus or 27.5. But new hub widths and all that.

  10. #10
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    Can you list these frames with their standover heights and approximate weights? I'm looking for a standover of under 27".

    Thanks.

  11. #11
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    Maybe call IF?

    Geekhouse in Providence?

    Ted Wojcik?

    Definitely call Pioneer Valley Frameworks too.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by cvn72 View Post
    Can you list these frames with their standover heights and approximate weights? I'm looking for a standover of under 27".

    Thanks.
    Try Mr Google.

  13. #13
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    Know honzo is available in steel and ti in xs. 27.5, but if you're spending money on a new frame I'd upsize the wheels for future compatability.

  14. #14
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    Commonwealth/Cantabrigian is worth a shot.
    Curtis is good peeps.

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  15. #15
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    I've done quite a bit of research. All the newer frames have standover heights over 28". I am short with short legs (bad combination) and need a standover under 27" for groin clearance. The Jamis Dragonfly is at 28.5 SO for a 14 frame. An XS Jamis Dragon frame would work but are hard to find.


    Quote Originally Posted by leeboh View Post
    Done some looking for said frame? Seems there would be lots. XS , steel, disc, 1/1/8th head tube? Jamis dragonfly, womens comes in 14,16 and 18" 26" plus or 27.5. But new hub widths and all that.

  16. #16
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    The Honzo doesn't come in XS and the S has a SO of 28". A little too high. The problem with upsizing the wheel is it adds to the SO, so I need a 26" frame, which are getting harder to find unless you go custom which is too expensive for me.

    Thanks for the info.

    Quote Originally Posted by jmblur View Post
    Know honzo is available in steel and ti in xs. 27.5, but if you're spending money on a new frame I'd upsize the wheels for future compatability.

  17. #17
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    As a welder, there is no way I would ever weld a brake tab on a 15+ year old frame... way too much liability for $100.

    As far as stand over, its meaningless, and I will explain why:

    When you come to a stop you lean the bike over and put that foot down, no one stops the bike and leaps forward putting both feet flat on the ground at the same time.

    95% of crashes or falls are going to be one side or the other, over the bars, etc

    The other crashes that do end up with your body heading straight forward with your legs on both sides of the bike evenly you are hitting the top tube or stem regardless of stand over.

    Stand over height is a measurement picked at a meaningless point on the top tube. The top tube is heading up, and fast, so even if you have more inseam than stand over its not going to matter, you'll just hit the top tube an inch later.

    Get a new frame, with all the modern features and geometry, and get one that fits you correctly when you are pedaling it. Don't worry about stand over.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Squirrel View Post
    As a welder, there is no way I would ever weld a brake tab on a 15+ year old frame... way too much liability for $100.

    As far as stand over, its meaningless, and I will explain why:

    When you come to a stop you lean the bike over and put that foot down, no one stops the bike and leaps forward putting both feet flat on the ground at the same time.

    95% of crashes or falls are going to be one side or the other, over the bars, etc

    The other crashes that do end up with your body heading straight forward with your legs on both sides of the bike evenly you are hitting the top tube or stem regardless of stand over.

    Stand over height is a measurement picked at a meaningless point on the top tube. The top tube is heading up, and fast, so even if you have more inseam than stand over its not going to matter, you'll just hit the top tube an inch later.

    Get a new frame, with all the modern features and geometry, and get one that fits you correctly when you are pedaling it. Don't worry about stand over.
    OP, this is spot on! Get a new frame.

  19. #19
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    Yeah, standover means nothing unless you're in the habit of jumping straight forward off your seat to double-flat-foot position. Can't say this is anything that I've ever found to be useful while riding.
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  20. #20
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    Thanks for the information. I'll keep my eye out for a frame.

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