Seeking 18650 Flashlight with at least 900 lumens (for helmet)- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Seeking 18650 Flashlight with at least 900 lumens (for helmet)

    Hi,

    I have been searching endlessly for what I need and decided I am going to need help.

    I currently run a Jetbeam ST Cycler flashlight (tactical type pretty much) on my helmet. It's about 2.5oz (without battery) and is 425 lumens. As its been about 5 years since this initial setup I'm looking for something very similar, but brighter.

    I really like using 18650 batteries so I am going to go this route again.

    What I am searching for:

    -a true 900 or so lumens light
    -ability to tail stand
    -no shortcomings like turning on accidentally in pocket
    -2.5 to 3oz in weight (this is a helmet light)
    -decent run times (1.5hrs on high)
    -under $100

    I know there are hundreds of lights out there (lots of chinese made) but I'm looking for a quality light that has a reputation for advertising the right lumen brightness.

    Thank you in advance for any help. It's been a very confusing trying to find what I am looking for these past couple of weeks.

  2. #2
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    A zebralight h600w Mark III fits that. it tailstands (has a flat cap) and you can ziptie it's silicone mount to the helmet. will run 900 lumens for 1.5 hours. 89 bucks.

    there might be cheaper or other solutions sure, but I can say this about that I have owned 4 zebralights (have two now, two given away as gifts) and ....to prevent turning on in pocket just unscrew the tailcap 1/16th turn. it is super light, lightest 18650 light you can get by about 4 grams.

    the best thing about this is, it has a sub lumen moon modes, all the way to 1100 lumens. it will get hot if not moving and PID will slowly regulate lumens as it heats up, but if moving it stays on high (depends on outdoor temp and whatnot)

    and it has a HIGH CRI neutral white (not straight blinding white/blue) and it is ideal for woods use at night

    H600w Mk III XHP35 Neutral White 18650 Headlamp

    I swear by them as headlamps

    if you feed this thing quality 3400mah cells you get best results.
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  3. #3
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    Thanks. I saw this light during my research. Once I read that it can turn on accidentally I had to pass. Just to much maintenance for me

    Thanks for the tip on the 3400mah batteries. I just got them this year but haven't really used them yet.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by jscott36 View Post
    Thanks. I saw this light during my research. Once I read that it can turn on accidentally I had to pass. Just to much maintenance for me

    Thanks for the tip on the 3400mah batteries. I just got them this year but haven't really used them yet.
    maintenance ? all you have to do it slightly untwist the tailcap.

    in fact all my lights [that have power via tailcap/anodized thread] (70 of them) to prevent accidental activation are specifically designed to be twisted to stop parasitic drain. it is a design feature. I have a total of 87 high power flashlight/headlamp assemblies and 70 of them are anodized thread/untwist to stop parasitic drain of the momentary switch sensor

    good luck with finding anything close
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  5. #5
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    An issue I see is that your asking the impossible. A flashlight having its rated lumens, only on fresh charge for the first couple minutes then slowly taper off Some can prolong that a good bit (6-700 lumen range with top of the line 18650 cells) but its inherent to "flashlight" design. Of course using lower output levels helps keep the output constant. The best of the flashlights can keep the output constant a fair bit long than cheap ones due to better reflector/optic and electronic efficiency.

    Now this isnt a problem for some, the guys that run that set up aren't bothered by it.

    Just something to keep in mind. The more lumens you want out of an single 18650 flashlight, the less useable runtime your going to have. And its a very noticeable decline. Limitations of battery design available right now.

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  6. #6
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    127.0.0.1 - Sorry, didn't mean to offend. One thing I should have mentioned is I would like to use the flashlight as an ordinary light as well. The Zebralight wouldn't service this function very well (IMHO).

    Also, I learned that they suggest only unprotected batteries. My AW 18650 batteries are protected. I wouldn't want to go out and but a whole new set of batteries.

    Thanks RAKC Ind - it certainly does seem like the impossible. I'll keep searching before I may have to "settle"

  7. #7
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    Well, I went for this Jetbeam light - the BR10GT. We'll see how it goes. It will be on my helmet.

    They claim 2hr run times at 960 lumens. I'll come back and report its battery life in warm and cold temps. I use protected AW 3400mAh 18650s.

    https://www.amazon.com/JETBeam-BR10G...m+br10gt&psc=1

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jscott36 View Post
    What I am searching for:

    -a true 900 or so lumens light
    -ability to tail stand
    -no shortcomings like turning on accidentally in pocket
    -2.5 to 3oz in weight (this is a helmet light)
    -decent run times (1.5hrs on high)
    -under $100

    I know there are hundreds of lights out there (lots of chinese made) but I'm looking for a quality light that has a reputation for advertising the right lumen brightness.

    Thank you in advance for any help. It's been a very confusing trying to find what I am looking for these past couple of weeks.
    You might consider one of the Convoy S2 or S3's. These are typically sold by most of the Chinese web sites and are very popular. I own a couple myself. If you find the right website you can order these with either a lower or higher power driver depending on your preference and choice of emitter tint. Don't let it bother you that these are Chinese. These are very nice torches. Most of these come with a standard 3/5 mode UI which you can switch between very easily. I also like the form factor of these torches as they are completely uniformly tube-like. This makes them easier to mount to a helmet. They will also tail stand. Not sure they produce 900 lumen on the highest mode but they are bright. Read over the last couple posts on this thread where there is some talk about output.

    That said I really like my BLF-A6 for Mountain biking ( helmet duties ). Same basic form factor as the Convoys but has a 7-mode UI. Highest boost mode is over 1K lumen but is set to power down to the 6th mode after 45 seconds. Absolutely killer output on boost. The six mode is about 670-700 lumen and would be the go to mode if you want longer runtime. I talk about the A6 on the same thread so look that thread over. I'm sending you a PM you might want to check out as well.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jscott36 View Post
    127.0.0.1 - Sorry, didn't mean to offend. One thing I should have mentioned is I would like to use the flashlight as an ordinary light as well. The Zebralight wouldn't service this function very well (IMHO).

    Also, I learned that they suggest only unprotected batteries. My AW 18650 batteries are protected. I wouldn't want to go out and but a whole new set of batteries.

    Thanks RAKC Ind - it certainly does seem like the impossible. I'll keep searching before I may have to "settle"
    zl uses either, protected and unprotected, and even zl sells protected 3400's
    for the lights, so I am nit sure where you see they recommend unprotected
    ZL635 3500mAh 18650 Protected Li-ion Battery (ship to US customers only)

    they are spring loaded so tall and short 18650's fit.

    ok, so maybe h600w III aint right (90 deg angle), then get the sc600 MK IV
    SC600w Mk IV HI 18650 XHP35 Neutral White High Intensity Flashlight

    this also tailstands and it is one of the lightest flashlights around (also starts at 1400 lumens)

    ok done shilling for zebralight. zee-bra-ight. zeeeeee bbbrrrrroooooo lighhhhhttt LOL

    ---\
    oh I see you got a jetbeam-- thems good too !
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

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    cat-man-do - Thank you for the product recommendations and a little background about the lights. I needed to get something going so I went with the JetBeam BR10GT. However, I did it with the idea that I would return if it isn't as bright as advertised or is hard to use.

    I'll check out the models you listed and keep a heads up for your PM. Thanks!

  11. #11
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    jetbeam is a tad chunkier in heft than a similar zl sc series

    but 'tis a quality unit
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  12. #12
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    127.0.0.1 - Thanks. That's pretty funny. Won't forget the name Zebralight now

    I'm not sure where I read about the unprotected battery only thing. I'll go back and check out the SC600w you mentioned. I appreciate your help.

  13. #13
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    Just ordered the SC600w Mk IV Plus - things are getting out of control lol

    Of course, one of the lights is going back but I feel with everyone's help I am making progress

  14. #14
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    Lights are like bikes, N+1.
    Agreed on the Convoy S2, I have a couple and they're light and can be customized with more drivers, even ordered that way through https://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php
    Niner Jet 9 RDO, Scalpel 29, XTC 650b, 04 Stumpjumper FSR Pro, Trek Rigid SS - No suspension, no gears....no problem

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    Quote Originally Posted by upstateSC-rider View Post
    Lights are like bikes, N+1.
    Agreed on the Convoy S2, I have a couple and they're light and can be customized with more drivers, even ordered that way through https://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php
    N+1, nope, N+10. Forgot the 0 at the end

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  16. #16
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    My ZebraLight SC600F Mk IV Plus arrived today. It looks nice but my new AW protected 18650 3400mAh batteries won't work with this light. On the inside of the tail cap are a raised circle of "connectors"? that won't make contact with my batteries because the plastic tubing/wrapping goes up over the top of the batteries, which doesn't permit metal to metal contact.

    I'm looking for new batteries now. Can anyone suggest quality unprotected 18650s? I have always gone with AW ever since I read about them on CandlePowerForums. I tend to research things like crazy. One good thing I am learning is that unprotected batteries tend to be cheaper.

    p.s. I'm glad I came to this forum looking for help. I never would have found this light on my own. Thanks!

  17. #17
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    I use protected and unprotected cells in my zebralight just fine. Right now the batteries that give me the longest run time on high over multiple charges are these

    https://www.illumn.com/18650-keeppow...SABEgJF6vD_BwE

    I understand there are true 3500 mah 18650 batteries now but I don't have any experience with them. If you truely can't get the protected cells to work you could consider simply pulling the wrap and button off.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  18. #18
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    ^oops those are backordered.
    These are good too

    https://www.illumn.com/batteries-cha...-flat-top.html

    and definitely work. I think zebralight does recommend flat top vs button top.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by jscott36 View Post
    My ZebraLight SC600F Mk IV Plus arrived today. It looks nice but my new AW protected 18650 3400mAh batteries won't work with this light. On the inside of the tail cap are a raised circle of "connectors"? that won't make contact with my batteries because the plastic tubing/wrapping goes up over the top of the batteries, which doesn't permit metal to metal contact.

    I'm looking for new batteries now. Can anyone suggest quality unprotected 18650s? I have always gone with AW ever since I read about them on CandlePowerForums. I tend to research things like crazy. One good thing I am learning is that unprotected batteries tend to be cheaper.

    p.s. I'm glad I came to this forum looking for help. I never would have found this light on my own. Thanks!
    unpro 18650
    anything at batteryjunction

    https://www.batteryjunction.com/

    they do not sell garbage. and you'll get a free led keylight too


    this be one of the best
    https://www.batteryjunction.com/pana...650b-3400.html
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  20. #20
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    Thanks Whalenard! Panasonic has always been great - not just batteries but other products as well.

    I appreciate this 127.0.0.1. I heard great things about battery junction. The prices are awesome for the batteries you mentioned.

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    Idea! Fenix BC21R

    Fenix BC21R is what you're looking for.
    Replacable 18650 cell, 880lm, 2.4oz, neutral white, dediated for mtb use. Can stand on it's tail and is below $75. Runtime 85m with 3600mAh cell.
    fenixlighting.com/product/bc21r-fenix-bike-light/
    fenix-store.com/fenix-bc21r-led-bike-light/
    fenixtactical.com/fenix-bc21r.html



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    I have these batteries to use for my MTB lights and they work very well.
    https://www.batteryjunction.com/lg-mj1-inr-18650.html

  23. #23
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    Sorry, I missed out on chiming in on this thread. I'm not sure how they fit for weight, but I'll 2nd (or 3rd, or 4th) the Convoy flashlights. Absolutely unbeatable for price to performance ratio and so easy to customize. Mountain Electronics (a BudgetLightForum member) is the definite goto shop hands down. Richard there will do some customization including custom firmware. I prefer a Convoy M1 on the helmet for throw (due to larger reflector). I have two M1's, an S2 EDC, and an S6 triple, all neutral white with custom firmware. The Convoy's are rock solid. I've even posted up on BLF about my EDC S2 surviving being shot threw my snowblower and buried in the snow for over a week until I found it.

    I'd stay away from AW cells just because of price; you can get the same cells with as good protection circuits/wrap from Mtn for far less cost. I'd also steer away from the NCR18650B 3400's as they voltage sag quite a bit and are known for being a long cell. (Voltage sag means lower output as the cell depletes.) I'm using LG MJ1 3500mAh cells, but Pannasonic NCR18650GA 3500's are very close in performance - just be cautious on cell length with lights that are picky on lengths.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Sorry, I missed out on chiming in on this thread. I'm not sure how they fit for weight, but I'll 2nd (or 3rd, or 4th) the Convoy flashlights. Absolutely unbeatable for price to performance ratio and so easy to customize. Mountain Electronics (a BudgetLightForum member) is the definite goto shop hands down. Richard there will do some customization including custom firmware. I prefer a Convoy M1 on the helmet for throw (due to larger reflector).
    -Garry
    Garry, I believe Mountain Electronics no longer does building of torches. You can order all the parts but need to do the build yourself. I checked the website just last week and when I started to order parts I noticed they still have a note saying that they no longer do the builds.

    On the upside I took your advise and ordered a Convoy M1, only from another custom builder. It's going to be my Christmas present to myself. Should have it by this week. ( ordered with XPL HI and 7000K emitter temp. Plan is to use for helmet use on the road )

  25. #25
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    nvm
    Last edited by 127.0.0.1; 12-18-2017 at 07:13 PM.
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    Ok, I haven't kept up with what's going on at Mountain Electronics. I know Richard sometimes takes the custom building off the website when he's too busy to handle it (or away from his home base). I hope he didn't remove the service for good. There would be plenty of good builders over at BLF would take it on and I'm sure not charge an arm & a leg for doing so. Heck I would offer to do some basic work, but I just can't guarantee my schedule to do so. I'm also not up on top of things like many others.

    -Garry

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    IMRBatteries.com, because he has the coolest stickers and best prices.

    His stickers are in-fact so cool, they match the color of the dials on Fox forks. So I put his sticker on my fork!

    He also will answer your questions with great clarity over the phone. CS is exceptional!
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  28. #28
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    Will My Light Harware Melt with latest Zebralight

    Hi. Thank you for all your suggestions and help. I actually went with the Zebralight SC600 XPH50 Mark IV Plus. I noticed this light gets pretty hot quickly.

    The photo below shows my setup (but with the Jetbeam ST Cycler light).

    Because there's a rubber strap on the top and the custom GoPro mount is plastic I'm wondering if this will melt on me when using the Zebralight. The last thing I need is for my new (and expensive) light falling of and hitting the rocks as I go down a trail.

    So, do you think my custom mount here is up to the task for the Zebralight?

    [img]Name:  IMG_2631.jpg
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  29. #29
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    Mine never has. It gets fairly hot but no where near melt plastic or silicone hot. I think it's a non-issue.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  30. #30
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    Saw the thread title and was going to recommend Zebralight. I've owned lots of lights, but those get used more than any other. I used their headlights for everything around the house. Great when doing bike maintenance too.

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    Whalenard - this is great to hear, thanks.

    Thanks Coke. I just recently heard about Zebralights in this post. I'm glad you've had success with them. Now I can't wait until the Christmas party on Friday. Time to show off the new lumens

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by jscott36 View Post
    ......Because there's a rubber strap on the top and the custom GoPro mount is plastic I'm wondering if this will melt on me when using the Zebralight. The last thing I need is for my new (and expensive) light falling of and hitting the rocks as I go down a trail.
    No worries about melting, but catching on a low hanging branch or something might be a problem.
    Last edited by Vancbiker; 12-19-2017 at 05:00 PM. Reason: fix quote
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

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    That's a risk I'll have to take

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    Quote Originally Posted by jscott36 View Post
    That's a risk I'll have to take
    Since you have it rubber banded to the GoPro mount it probably won't be too bad on you if you catch it on something. The bands will let go.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  35. #35
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    silicone rubber is extremely heat resistant, so no worries

    the ZL will get hot but no where near the limit of silicone
    [or even standard rubber orings]
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  36. #36
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    Thanks guys. My first trial run with the Zebralight Mark IV went well tonight. Will post pics soon.

    *been trying to upload pics but the Basic Uploader keeps failing. I'll try again soon.
    Last edited by jscott36; 12-25-2017 at 05:03 AM.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by jscott36 View Post
    Thanks guys. My first trial run with the Zebralight Mark IV went well tonight. Will post pics soon.

    *been trying to upload pics but the Basic Uploader keeps failing. I'll try again soon.
    Can't wait to see em.

  38. #38
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    Zebralight Pics

    Hi. A few pics! I took them at around dusk yesterday. The light is definitely floody cool white. Though the pictures seem to cast it as a "warm" light.

    The Fenix ALB-10 mount works great. Below are a couple of pictures of the mount on and off the handlebars.

    All in all, I'm very happy with this light. I got at least an hour in yesterday at about 30 degree F temps with an Orbtronic 3500 mAh 18650 3.7v unprotected battery. However, Zebralight said I should use Panasonic 18650s but I learned this after the fact. Basically he said they are very good batteries and the price isn't too expensive.

    A note on this particular light: it requires unprotected batteries. This is tricky because each Zebralight may be different.

    I planned to use it on my helmet but I forgot my custom GoPro mount at the house.


    [img]Seeking 18650 Flashlight with at least 900 lumens (for helmet)-img_20171224_163314644_zpsyvhpq9ug.jpg[img]
    [img]Seeking 18650 Flashlight with at least 900 lumens (for helmet)-img_20171224_163325740_zpscywuy6us.jpg[img]
    [img]Seeking 18650 Flashlight with at least 900 lumens (for helmet)-img_20171225_144416485_zpstykw3ggi.jpg[img]
    [img]Seeking 18650 Flashlight with at least 900 lumens (for helmet)-img_20171225_151057730_zpszumhwsau.jpg[img]
    Last edited by jscott36; 12-25-2017 at 03:02 PM.

  39. #39
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    By the way, a big shout out to 127.0.0.1 for mentioning Zebralight. Thanks!

  40. #40
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    Fenix PD35.
    I like turtles

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by jscott36 View Post
    Hi. A few pics! I took them at around dusk yesterday. The light is definitely floody cool white. Though the pictures seem to cast it as a "warm" light.

    The Fenix ALB-10 mount works great. Below are a couple of pictures of the mount on and off the handlebars.

    All in all, I'm very happy with this light. I got at least an hour in yesterday at about 30 degree F temps with an Orbtronic 3500 mAh 18650 3.7v unprotected battery. However, Zebralight said I should use Panasonic 18650s but I learned this after the fact. Basically he said they are very good batteries and the price isn't too expensive.

    A note on this particular light: it requires unprotected batteries. This is tricky because each Zebralight may be different.

    I planned to use it on my helmet but I forgot my custom GoPro mount at the house.


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    FYI Orbitronic batteries you have are panasonic cells. Name brand lights have their name sticker on their protected cells but in your exact case, the cell your using is the same as or the better Panasonic 18650 cells.

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  42. #42
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    Thanks RAKC. This is good to know. I noticed that the Panasonics are half the price too!

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    I'm a little late noticing this thread but the Gemini Xera Flashlight would be a similar option. It too requires unprotected 18650's. 950 lumens.
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  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by jscott36 View Post
    ( *Commenting on his new Zebralight )...Hi. A few pics! I took them at around dusk yesterday. The light is definitely floody cool white. Though the pictures seem to cast it as a "warm" light.

    The Fenix ALB-10 mount works great. Below are a couple of pictures of the mount on and off the handlebars.

    All in all, I'm very happy with this light. I got at least an hour in yesterday at about 30 degree F temps with an Orbtronic 3500 mAh 18650 3.7v unprotected battery. However, Zebralight said I should use Panasonic 18650s but I learned this after the fact. Basically he said they are very good batteries and the price isn't too expensive.

    A note on this particular light: it requires unprotected batteries. This is tricky because each Zebralight may be different.

    I planned to use it on my helmet but I forgot my custom GoPro mount at the house.

    Likely the only reason Zebralight is requiring the "unprotected cell" is that the torch body is much shorter than typical 18650 torches. A cell without protection is a little shorter than one with protection built in. The upside to this is that "unprotected cells are cheaper than protected cells. Not to worry about the loss of protection aspect as Zebralight is likely ( although I don't know for sure ) providing their own battery protection built in to the driver.

    Yesterday Santa brought me my new PflexPro Convoy M-1. Custom setup with XPL HI V3-1A-7000K emitter. I got the thrower I was looking for. Didn't get a lot of time to play with it yet but it sits on the helmet without any problems. My initial impression is that the throw is magnificent. Very tight and intense hot spot. This should work really well when riding on the road at those times when I need to see if there are deer standing off to the sides of the road in the far distance. ( that was my intent when buying this torch ). I was a bit worried that the 7000K emitter tint might have a hint of blue in it but thankfully such is not the case. Beam coming from this torch is just a very intense cool white. Couldn't help but notice the spill is intensely bright as well. I should be able to get a bit more play time with it when at work today.

    ( *CAt comment )

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post

    Yesterday Santa brought me my new PflexPro Convoy M-1. Custom setup with XPL HI V3-1A-7000K emitter. I got the thrower I was looking for. Didn't get a lot of time to play with it yet but it sits on the helmet without any problems. My initial impression is that the throw is magnificent. Very tight and intense hot spot. This should work really well when riding on the road at those times when I need to see if there are deer standing off to the sides of the road in the far distance. ( that was my intent when buying this torch ). I was a bit worried that the 7000K emitter tint might have a hint of blue in it but thankfully such is not the case. Beam coming from this torch is just a very intense cool white. Couldn't help but notice the spill is intensely bright as well. I should be able to get a bit more play time with it when at work today.

    ( *CAt comment )

    That looks like a nice light indeed. Wishing they made one with the emitter on the side headlamp style, I'd like to add one of their products to my collection.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

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    Wgat's the run time on 1250 lumens and is the 1250 accurate. Post some beam shots. Thx.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    Wgat's ( What's? ) the run time on 1250 lumens and is the 1250 accurate. Post some beam shots. Thx.
    According to the PFlexPro website the listed 1250 lumens pertains to only the the XM-L2 U4-1A 7000K emitter. Other emitters will vary according to their specs. PFlexPro is claiming to use ANSI standards and lists the current output on boost as 3.8A. ( when I get a chance I'll test that ) The Cree charts list the XPL HI maximum drive current at about 3A. That would put the output somewhere between 1000-1100 lumen. The PFlexPro Convoy M1 I bought looks to be the brightest 18650 torch I own although the BLF A6 I also own would give it a run for the money. The Convoy M1 host I ordered, equipped with XPL HI 1A 7000K along with the slightly wider reflector, is making this torch a super thrower, perfect for high beam road duties.

    Last night I pulled into a closed park that was completely dark and gave the M1 it's first real test. When I walked up to a low fence I had no idea what was on the other side. When I turned the M1 on ( boost ) I was shocked at what I saw. Turned out I was looking from the far end ( length wise ) of a soccer field. The tight spot beam of M1 penetrated beyond the far goal post and lit up the woods behind it! Wow! very impressive. Lit up the far goal like it was day.

    I have no idea how many lumen mine is producing on boost but if I had to guess ( considering the listed current, I would think at least 1100 lumen. Keep in mind though that no small 18650 type torch is able to maintain such a high output for more than a minute or so before heat becomes an issue. The PFlexPro torches all use thermal management to keep the heat issues in check and the seller is using some very nice modifications to make the torches they sell more capable of handling the higher currents that they use. The torch I ordered I had set-up to auto power down to the next mode ( 50% ) after two minutes on boost. When I get a chance I'll do a current check on the two highest modes and from there estimate the run times.

    As for beam shots...well....distance beam photos usually don't work well with cheap cell phone cameras but I'll give it try when I get a chance. Don't hold your breath waiting though. Possible snow and/or cold weather expected the next couple of days ( FYI; I'm using this torch with my unprotected 3500mAh, LG MJ-1 cells. )

  48. #48
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    Oh, I almost forgot to mention while talking about the torch I ordered that I typically only buy torches with "reverse clicky switches". The PFlexPro series offers both forward and reverse clickys so you must make sure to order the one you want. I've used both before and for bike riding I prefer "reverse". For those who don't know the difference I'll try to explain; "Reverse clickys work by pressing the rear button in till it clicks. This turns the torch on ( or off ). While on the modes can then be changed by "soft pressing" the rear button ( while the torch is on )

    .....Forward clickys: pressing the rear button till it clicks turns the torch on ( or off ) in similar fashion. However you can't change modes while the torch is on. You must turn the torch off if you want to change modes. When off you soft press the button and the modes change

    The PFlexPro seller is using custom rear switches so when you buy one you are getting a much better electrical connection than a typical cheap Chinese. ( see the website for further explaination on the custom modifications )

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    That looks like a nice light indeed. Wishing they made one with the emitter on the side headlamp style, I'd like to add one of their products to my collection.
    Yep, I hear ya. The "Periscope style" torch seems to be popular with some people. Thankfully you have the Zebralight and Nitecore brands that sells those. Not to mention I've seen other cheaper brands ( looking almost like the Zebralight that look half decent although at the moment I forget where I saw them.)

    If I were to go with a Periscope type torch I'd lean towards the Zebralight H603w using the newer XHP35 Cree emitter. Than again the Zebralight brand offers many versions of the Periscope type headlamps using different emitters including the XHP50. Personally I don't own a periscope type torch because most of those use reflectors designed more for a wider beam. Then again I've not seen one in person so I'll not totally dis something I've never used.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Yesterday Santa brought me my new PflexPro Convoy M-1. Custom setup with XPL HI V3-1A-7000K emitter.
    ( *CAt comment )
    I took a quick look into this pFlexPRO. Right off the bat I notice it's just a basic QLITE (nanjg 105c) driver with 2 more 7135 current regulator chips added and guppydrv firmware (interestingly not disclosed as being guppydrv on the PFlexPRO website). The driver with exact listing of the same 22 mode groups and turbo time description is here on Mountain Electronics. There is no special "thermal management" - it's just that the light has good thermal management due to the integrated emitter shelf and finned body. The switch just sounds like it's the stock switch with a spring bypass applied (common procedure by modders). The Convoy lights always use good solid quality switches.

    It sounds like the only real work PFlexPRO is doing is assembling the pieces together, piggybacking 2 additional 7135 chips, potting the driver, swapping in an AR coated lens, and doing a spring bypass. I doubt they are even flashing the driver; I bet they are just purchasing the driver pre-flashed from Mountain. Nothing wrong with what they are doing, but the price seems premium for it. (Mountain sells the M1 body for $14.45 and you can get a boosted 3.8A driver with guppydrv for $10.25. The emitter is going to be about $6 to $8 and then a few bucks for the AR lens.) Nothing extremely difficult about the build either (though I understand you're not a modder CAT).

    The one BIG missing item I see is the driver has not been converted to "off-time memory". This is a HUGE improvement to these nanjg drivers. On-Time memory drivers require 2 switch presses to change a mode if you have stayed in a mode longer than 2 seconds. If you have the driver set to "no memory" the first switch presses drops back to the first mode. I have an EDC triple that works this way and is quite annoying. I always want it to start in moon mode because it's the light I use in the bedroom in the morning while getting dressed so as not to wake my wife. I've actually come to love & prefer lights with nanjg drivers set to "no memory" and "off-time memory". This means the light's behavior is totally predictable - will always come on in the first mode level and a single quick/half press of the switch always advances to the next mode no matter how long it's been on (i.e. think biking, where you've been in a mode for quite a long time and you want to very predictably bump it up one mode level esp. when you have a split second to change that mode). I started off with my M1 using guppydrv set to mode group 5, but it is so much better now running STAR firmware with my own two custom levels (15% in guppydrv was too low and none of the other 22 groups suited as a helmet light for me) with off-time memory.

    I'm wondering who PFlexPRO really is. They are certainly one of the forum members (BLF or CPF).

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    I took a quick look into this pFlexPRO. Right off the bat I notice it's just a basic QLITE (nanjg 105c) driver with 2 more 7135 current regulator chips added and guppydrv firmware (interestingly not disclosed as being guppydrv on the PFlexPRO website). The driver with exact listing of the same 22 mode groups and turbo time description is here on Mountain Electronics. There is no special "thermal management" - it's just that the light has good thermal management due to the integrated emitter shelf and finned body. The switch just sounds like it's the stock switch with a spring bypass applied (common procedure by modders). The Convoy lights always use good solid quality switches.

    It sounds like the only real work PFlexPRO is doing is assembling the pieces together, piggybacking 2 additional 7135 chips, potting the driver, swapping in an AR coated lens, and doing a spring bypass. I doubt they are even flashing the driver; I bet they are just purchasing the driver pre-flashed from Mountain. Nothing wrong with what they are doing, but the price seems premium for it. (Mountain sells the M1 body for $14.45 and you can get a boosted 3.8A driver with guppydrv for $10.25. The emitter is going to be about $6 to $8 and then a few bucks for the AR lens.) Nothing extremely difficult about the build either (though I understand you're not a modder CAT).

    The one BIG missing item I see is the driver has not been converted to "off-time memory". This is a HUGE improvement to these nanjg drivers. On-Time memory drivers require 2 switch presses to change a mode if you have stayed in a mode longer than 2 seconds. If you have the driver set to "no memory" the first switch presses drops back to the first mode. I have an EDC triple that works this way and is quite annoying. I always want it to start in moon mode because it's the light I use in the bedroom in the morning while getting dressed so as not to wake my wife. I've actually come to love & prefer lights with nanjg drivers set to "no memory" and "off-time memory". This means the light's behavior is totally predictable - will always come on in the first mode level and a single quick/half press of the switch always advances to the next mode no matter how long it's been on (i.e. think biking, where you've been in a mode for quite a long time and you want to very predictably bump it up one mode level esp. when you have a split second to change that mode). I started off with my M1 using guppydrv set to mode group 5, but it is so much better now running STAR firmware with my own two custom levels (15% in guppydrv was too low and none of the other 22 groups suited as a helmet light for me) with off-time memory.

    I'm wondering who PFlexPRO really is. They are certainly one of the forum members (BLF or CPF).

    -Garry
    I thought the UI was indeed very similar to Guppydrive as my MElectronics Convoy S2 is setup with that. Yep, you can buy all that stuff from Mountain Elec. and build it yourself for less

    The PFlexPro website does give you a number of choices in the number of minutes before the boost mode drops to the next lower mode. I can't remember if the GupDrive offered that as none of my other torches do that. Perhaps there is a sub menu in Guppydrive I'm not aware of.

    This thing you call "off time memory", I had no idea it actually had a name but I know what you are talking about. That OT-Memory is used in the Convoy S2 I bought from Gearbest. I thought the 2 presses to change modes was just a fluke. ( not that it's so bad really but to each their own opinion ). Anyway, I always prefer a torch with memory. My new M1 is set up > M-15%-33%-50%-100%....( with memory ).

    I'm just glad I found someone who was offering the Convoy M1 already built. Took me a good deal of time doing the searching. I could of bought one of the Chinese built ones but those are almost always limited in how much maximum current is being used and rarely do you get choice of emitter. Since I wanted max throw I wanted to use the de-domed XPL HI emitter and the maximum current. Shipment came really fast and I like that if something goes wrong the seller was very quick to respond.

    The PFlexPro site also is offering builds using triples and quads. I really like the look of the triples using the Nichia 219C's. I'd love to have one of those. I bet they would make for an awesome bar light. I'm holding out though until someone starts to sell a host able to hold a 20700 type cell.

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post

    The one BIG missing item I see is the driver has not been converted to "off-time memory". This is a HUGE improvement to these nanjg drivers. On-Time memory drivers require 2 switch presses to change a mode if you have stayed in a mode longer than 2 seconds. If you have the driver set to "no memory" the first switch presses drops back to the first mode. I have an EDC triple that works this way and is quite annoying. I always want it to start in moon mode because it's the light I use in the bedroom in the morning while getting dressed so as not to wake my wife. I've actually come to love & prefer lights with nanjg drivers set to "no memory" and "off-time memory". This means the light's behavior is totally predictable - will always come on in the first mode level and a single quick/half press of the switch always advances to the next mode no matter how long it's been on (i.e. think biking, where you've been in a mode for quite a long time and you want to very predictably bump it up one mode level esp. when you have a split second to change that mode). I started off with my M1 using guppydrv set to mode group 5, but it is so much better now running STAR firmware with my own two custom levels (15% in guppydrv was too low and none of the other 22 groups suited as a helmet light for me) with off-time memory.

    I'm wondering who PFlexPRO really is. They are certainly one of the forum members (BLF or CPF).

    -Garry
    Garry, I had to revisit this subject because I think I misunderstood what you were saying when I quoted you the first time. The M1 I bought has perfect memory. It requires no double press to change a mode ( after 2 sec ). If I set it to "moonlight" it stays in moonlight even if I turn the torch off and then back on hours later. If I have it on ML while on more than 2 sec or less, it makes no difference, if I press it once more it will change modes without problem. Lastly, if I take the battery out, replace battery...it still saves the last mode. ( tested this for over 20 min. )

    The Gearbest Convoy S2 I own is the only torch I own that requires two presses after 2 sec. in order to change modes. I am a little disappointed in the 22 step UI of the PFlexPro. Heck, even with 22 choices it's still not a perfect firmware. ( shrug ) I see no purpose in a 15% mode and I would of loved a little brighter 4th mode, say 65%. One of the reasons I like my BLF A6 so much is that it has seven modes with the 6th mode being near 600 lumen. Six hundred lum. works pretty well for all-around MTB use and still gives decent run times. Sadly my A6 powers down when on boost after only 45 sec. and that kind'a sucks. I'm very happy I had the option to set the cut-off at 2 min. with the M1.

    Garry, easy to say it's easy to build a torch. If you know what you are doing, have the right tools, have the right parts, have the time to buy and assemble the parts, have a dedicated work space where you can set it up to work, then yes...it's quite simple. Apparently the guy who runs Mountain Electronics no longer thinks offering custom builds is easy to do or he'd still be doing them ( lol ). Occasionally when I looked over Mountain Electronics website I found that they typical run out of the most popular items or simply don't have what I'm looking for. M.Electronics now is more geared for the DIY'er. If you want a custom pre-built torch you have to look elsewhere. PFlexPro had what I wanted and I found the price reasonable.

    BTW, I did find a torch that is using the 20700 cells. Output is suppose to be ~ 4000 lumen on boost! ( single cell ). It is using the Cree XHP70.2 emitter. I thought about buying one ( instead of the M1 ) but because the torch head ( reflector ) was a bit bigger I figured it wouldn't sit well on the helmet. Not to mention it was over $100. Goodness! I would love to see what 4000 lum. looks like coming off the helmet from a single domed emitter package...

  53. #53
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    Whoops! I don't know what I was thinking when I wrote that, because I see the PFlexPRO product page clearly lists "off-time memory" and I just double-checked (since it's easy to get confused on "off-time" versus "on-time") to be sure that's what I meant. So yes, it does have the "good" type of memory. Sorry for the confusion.

    I don't know Richard's current status (Mountain Electronics), but he originally started his store while in law school and ran it on the side. Assuming he's full speed ahead into his law career then it is perfectly understandable why he shuts down the custom build services (whether for good or for a period of time). I don't know that he figured his store would become so busy and popular either.

    There are now many many custom firmwares being shared on BLF; it's amazing how far that aspect of flashlight DIY has come! Heck, there's even a ramping UI firmware for clicky switches now! I'm curious to try that one out, though I don't have a light to try it in.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    ...There are now many many custom firmwares being shared on BLF; it's amazing how far that aspect of flashlight DIY has come! Heck, there's even a ramping UI firmware for clicky switches now! I'm curious to try that one out, though I don't have a light to try it in.

    -Garry
    Interesting. I didn't know such a thing existed. I just looked at the toykeeper version ( called Crescendo ) over on Mt.Electronics. I can't help but wonder how the ramping works. Is it digital step or a slow fade up or down? The Raveman CR900 I have has a programmable slow fade up/down mode but sadly it can't be set in memory. You can set the output but you have to use just your vision to decide how much brightness you want . I'd much prefer a digital step where you can count the steps and then decide which level you want to store. Then again, if I had my way I'd love to see a totally programmable UI on a torch that allowed the user to program and store ALL THE MODES. Give me a UI with 3 programmable modes and a hidden slow beacon flash and I'd have everything I want in a UI.

  55. #55
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    *created new thread on subject
    Last edited by jscott36; 01-05-2018 at 04:59 PM. Reason: moved post

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    A Winter Ride

    In keeping with my last couple posts I thought I'd get back with the info on the first ride with the PFlexPro Convoy M-1 I got for Christmas.

    Damn. Even on a day with a near 60F peak daytime temperature, boy if it don't get cold real fast when the sun goes down. By the time I got out ( after trying to find all my cold winter bike clothes ), it got down to near 40F. Being as cold as it was I like to stay near home when I do a ride so that meant riding the paved MUP's close to my home.

    With the Raveman PR-1200 on the bars and the Convoy M1 on the helmet I started out. One of the reasons for using the PR-1200 is that I wanted to see how it was going to work in cold weather. After a short half hour ride I ended up learning two things. First, the PFlexPro Convoy M1 I have makes an excellent helmet light. The throw and beam pattern from the M1's XP-L HI emitter just has fantastic reach. Even though the beam pattern is somewhat narrow it still has a very bright corona of spill outside the main spot. Even the standard high setting ( one mode down ) was excellent and had unexpected reach. I'm so impressed with the PFlexPro M1 that come spring I intend to try it out mountain biking on trails. If I like what I see on the trails I'll likely buy another but this time with a NW emitter.

    As for the Raveman PR-1200; The 1200 worked like charm in the cold. I saw no difference in the display output times. That said my ride was short so maybe if I'd been out longer maybe the cold would of had more effect. Still, when I got home I happened to notice that the lamp body, while somewhat cold, was nowhere near as cold as my bike frame ( which felt like an ice cube ). If I go out tomorrow I'll take my infrared thermometer along and test the lamp body after I've been out a while.

  57. #57
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    Continued from my last post: Not quite as cold as last night but still close ( at around 44F ) The PFlexPro Convoy M1 continues to work like a champ. The throw on this torch is just blowing me away. Can't wait till the warmer weather comes back so I feel like doing more rides. Crossing my fingers and hoping we don't see any big snows this year. Been lucky so far with just a couple 1-2"ers.

  58. #58
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    I've been running a Cyclebeam 930 mounted to my helmet vent for several seasons. I love it. I run it on medium power for about 2 hours run time per battery and always pack a spare battery with. High power is rated at 930 lumens and gets about an hour run time.
    https://www.amazon.com/Top-Brightnes...beam+900&psc=1

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by ewarnerusa View Post
    I've been running a Cyclebeam 930 mounted to my helmet vent for several seasons. I love it. I run it on medium power for about 2 hours run time per battery and always pack a spare battery with. High power is rated at 930 lumens and gets about an hour run time.
    https://www.amazon.com/Top-Brightnes...beam+900&psc=1
    I hate to comment on this because I don't want to look as though I'm dissing someone else's suggestion but.....If you look at the reviews ( on Amazon ) the torch you are recommending is not getting very good reviews. Common problems seem to be; switch stopped working after a short number of uses, supplied handlebar mount not very secure, problems with charger. In all about 38 negative reviews. The positive comments indicated the torch was bright and that the torch included a chip that included battery protection. Personally, I've never been a fan of the torches that incorporate an adjustable front bezel. The ones I've owned ( with adjustable bezel ) were just cheap pieces of junk.

    Just wondering, do you own many other torches? If so how would you rate this one to any of the others you own?

  60. #60
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    4/5 star review seems pretty good? I don't own any other lights of this style.

    I really like the mounting plate and have recommended it to others. It swivels 360 degrees for good direction options. It is the heavy rubber band style, I know others don't like that but I have not had any issues. As a helmet mount I have never noticed any stability issues. I have never tried it as a bar mount.

    I have had no issues with the switch, but I have had occasional instances where it won't light after replacing a battery or it starts to flicker during use. I had thought it was the switch as well; however, in every instance so far I have found that it is actually gunk starting to build up on the battery contacts. I scrape the gunk of the battery with my fingernail and it goes back to working fine. I will say that the light seems to need to be screwed together pretty firmly for the battery leads to make contact.

    I usually leave the adjustable beam on full wide. I will occasionally narrow it down a bit and turn the light on high if there is a long DH or something, but usually I don't touch it beyond making sure it is on full wide. An odd thing is that when zoomed in the light is in a square pattern rather than round. Not really noticeable when you're riding but it does seem odd.

    I stopped using the charger that it came with long ago; however, I still keep it handy because it uses a standard micro USB interface. I never had any issues with it beyond only being able to charge one battery at a time. Early on I wanted the ability to charge multiple 18650s at once so I bought a Nitecore Intellicharger. Early on I bought some 18650 batteries from a local battery store to use as backup but they wouldn't work with this light. The Cyclebeam branded ones do not have a nipple on the positive lead and the battery store ones did, and the battery store ones seemed to be slightly larger diameter casing and would not fit well into the light housing. So I bought 3 extras of the Cyclebeam branded 18650s and have been rolling with them every since. I bought the light and spare batteries sometime in 2015.

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by ewarnerusa View Post
    4/5 star review seems pretty good? I don't own any other lights of this style.

    I really like the mounting plate and have recommended it to others. It swivels 360 degrees for good direction options. It is the heavy rubber band style, I know others don't like that but I have not had any issues. As a helmet mount I have never noticed any stability issues. I have never tried it as a bar mount.

    I have had no issues with the switch, but I have had occasional instances where it won't light after replacing a battery or it starts to flicker during use. I had thought it was the switch as well; however, in every instance so far I have found that it is actually gunk starting to build up on the battery contacts. I scrape the gunk of the battery with my fingernail and it goes back to working fine. I will say that the light seems to need to be screwed together pretty firmly for the battery leads to make contact.

    I usually leave the adjustable beam on full wide. I will occasionally narrow it down a bit and turn the light on high if there is a long DH or something, but usually I don't touch it beyond making sure it is on full wide. An odd thing is that when zoomed in the light is in a square pattern rather than round. Not really noticeable when you're riding but it does seem odd.

    I stopped using the charger that it came with long ago; however, I still keep it handy because it uses a standard micro USB interface. I never had any issues with it beyond only being able to charge one battery at a time. Early on I wanted the ability to charge multiple 18650s at once so I bought a Nitecore Intellicharger. Early on I bought some 18650 batteries from a local battery store to use as backup but they wouldn't work with this light. The Cyclebeam branded ones do not have a nipple on the positive lead and the battery store ones did, and the battery store ones seemed to be slightly larger diameter casing and would not fit well into the light housing. So I bought 3 extras of the Cyclebeam branded 18650s and have been rolling with them every since. I bought the light and spare batteries sometime in 2015.
    Okay, I highlighted the areas on your post that I'll be commenting on...first; The 4 out of 5 star rating on Amazon is misleading. If you scroll down the page you'll see that out of 152 reviews 25% of the reviewers gave the product three stars or less with 10% giving it just 1 star.

    About the mount: Typically, plastic mounts of this type don't hold up very well when used on the bars. That said I find the mount very interesting. Never seen one like that before and the fact that it can rotate 360 could indeed make it very useful as a helmet torch mount. On the bars it would be more subject to vibration but on your helmet I would think it less likely to be a problem. Wish I could buy just the mount as I think in might work well with many types of helmets.

    About the flickering; The electrical contacts on torches will over a short period of time start to pick up oxidation. This is kind of standard for anything that uses replaceable batteries. You can use standard rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip or do what I do, use either an eraser on a pencil or the bigger pink 3" size erasers. The erasers buff off the oxidation really well and you'll see all the black gunk on the eraser so you know it's working. Also don't forget to clean the threads both on the torch body and the end cap. Those pick up oxidation as well since they too are electrical contacts.

    About the square beam pattern when narrowed: Typical of this type of torch. The front lens when adjusted to the narrowest beam pattern will focus all the way till it just magnifies the square die of the emitter. This is one of the reasons why I don't like them. You don't get this effect with good standard reflectors. This is not to say you can't get a workable/useable wider beam pattern using standard conical reflectors. Reflectors that are small and shallow tend to make a fairly wide beam pattern. The Convoy S2 I bought from Gearbest is an example of this. I found the shallow OP reflector on the S2 works very well on the bars and has a nice mix of width and distance throw. If you want more throw than you need need a deeper and/or wider type reflector.

    About the battery compatibility: Your torch was designed to be used with non-protected cells. I know this because the product description indicates that the driver includes battery protection. That said non-protected cells are usually shorter and/or slightly narrower. Seems the original cells are flat top and not button top ( as you said ). Going forward the next time you need batteries check out the Obtronic website. I recommend either the Panasonic ( non-protected ) ( flat-top ) 34-3500mAh cells or the LG MJ-1's...non-protected flat-topped 3500mAh. The ones you see with the Orbtronic label just means that Orbtronic supplied their own protection to the cell. That is why they cost a bit more ( Orbtronic does not make their own cells nor does Cyclebeam. The difference is Orbtronic is using the best brand name cells. No telling what cells Cyclebeam is using ) Anyway, lucky you, your torch has built in protection you can buy non-rebranded / non-protected quality cells. Orbtronic is a USA based company and orders generally only take 3-4 days within the states. Not to mention they only sell the good stuff. Whatever cell you chose just read the product description to make sure the cells are not too wide.

  62. #62
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    Thank you, good knowledge.

  63. #63
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    First MTB ride with my helmet mounted Convoy M1 PFlexPro ( cool white )

    Over the weekend I finally got lucky. ( no, not that kind of lucky )...
    Wonderful weather, at least on Saturday. Temps were in the 80F range and the local trails were buff and in absolutely fantastic shape. Finally had a chance to test the M1 I bought around Christmas on some dirt trails. Since I already knew how well it was working on the road I just had to try it out on some real single track. Need I say, it did not disappoint.

    Since this was my first MTB ride of the year I had to take things slow though because of health issues. I'm still trying to loose weight and doing my best to get back in shape. Not wanting to over-do things I chose to keep the ride down to a little over an hour. With the trails in such great shape in retrospect I should of went for a longer ride. Such is life. Now the temps are back to "cold and windy"

    Anyway I set off using the Raveman PR1200 on the bars and the M1 on the lid with the mode on the M1 set on the 50% setting. ( ~600 lumen ? )
    The Raveman I simply used the highest single emitter setting for most of the ride. The 50% setting on the M1 gets the job done and has great throw. I only used the the highest setting three times. Not that I needed it but I did want to see how well it could work. Once again, full output is absolutely awesome ( considering this is just a single emitter torch ). I will say right now, this platform ( PFlexPro Convoy M1 ) simply rocks as a helmet light. Best damn torch I have for helmet use beyond a doubt. Even in the 50% mode it has some very good and overall useful throw. I never felt as though I needed more. ( *note, when I finished the ride my 3500mAh LG-MJ1 cell only discharged 1188mAh. Likely I could of rode two hours on the one cell if I continued using the 50% mode most of the time. Not bad at all, IMO )

    I did test the step down and I have to say I never noticed when it stepped down. I only know it did because when I pressed the mode button it went back to the high setting. ( step down on mine is set at 2 minutes ) During the entire ride I occasionally would reach up to feel how hot it was getting and truth be told I never noticed any significant heat build up, even when on high.

    The only downside to using the M1 I have for MTB'n is that the emitter is a cool white ( 7000K ). I did indeed notice the additional glare even though there is not much trail side foliage as yet since it is still early spring. Most of the time though I didn't need to point it close to the bike so it was not that much of an issue, at least for the ride I was on and for the conditions I was riding. With that in mind I did test it out on a short downhill section of baby-heads. Goodness, when I aimed the M1 at the rocks, it really took all the detail out of the features.
    Way too much glare if aimed too close!

    Summing up, I love this torch. I love it so much I'm buying another one. This one though is being bought for MTB'n. ( with neutral white XPL HI 5000K ). Just placed the order today. Should have it by next week.

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    Looking for power lights?, see here

  65. #65
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    Just received! PFlexPro; Convoy M1 ( Neutral White; 5000K tint )

    Just got my second PFlexPro Convoy M1 in today. This one though is using the XPL HI emitter in the more neutral white ( NW ) tint. I won't get a chance to test it on dirt trails till this week end but I did take it for a quick ride around the neighborhood when I got home from work tonight. Once again excellent throw just like the other one so no surprise there. I can tell the difference in tint from the first one but truthfully there doesn't appear to be a big difference, at least when looking at the side by side wall shots. Hopefully there will be more of a difference once I start using it on more mountain bike rides.

    I did get a chance to test it on some of the more darker local paved trails and I have to say that even when in it's 50% mode I'm still getting a very nice usable distance throw.

    We had some rain this week so likely the trails will be a bit moist come this weekend. I have another four day weekend so I'm looking forward to some more night time trail riding. Temps are finally in the 60's and 70's so I plan on at least one trip next week. I just hope the rain holds off. Not to mention I couldn't help but notice that the pollen count is rising

  66. #66
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    PFlexPro Convoy M1 ( neutral white 5000K tint )

    Well I finally had a chance to test out my new NW Convoy M1 on some MTB trails. While I had no problems with the new PFlexPro on the lid unfortunately I had other problems to deal with. I decided to ride a trail that I had yet to ride this year and once I started I decided to do my regular loop only backwards. This turned out not to be so great an idea since I forgot that most of the really steep technical sections are best ridden going the other way. That was bad enough but their was also a problem with one particular section that tends to get muddy. Well it turned out this section was more muddy than expected.

    Mud holes can be dangerous because if you don't know how soft the mud is you can find yourself doing an endo real fast. Anyway I slugged it out as best I could but it was really taking the fun out of the ride. Then to make matters worse I get to about the halfway point of the ride when I ride up on an important trail intersection only to find that the trail I intended to take had been completely closed off. Not only was it closed off but it had the largest amount of dead fall I've ever seen that had completely closed it off. God you have to hate it when stuff like this happens. There were of course other options but I wasn't in any mood to start up another set of really steep climbs which would of prolonged my planned ride. Finally I rode around a bit to see if there was a by-pass trail and it turned out there was...( thank God ). ( would of been nice if someone had put a sign up or something... ) I finally got to the 3/4 point in the ride only to discover that an otherwise somewhat technical stream crossing had been completely altered by some a**wipes that had decided that they wanted to have some "stepping stones" so they wouldn't have to get their feet wet while crossing AND...they set the stones up directly in the path of the people who ride their bikes across the stream. Why they just couldn't have moved the stones a little to the side I have no idea. But no, the A-wipes set them up directly in the best line of crossing. Thankfully I had decided to stop first to check out the crossing before trying to cross. Otherwise I'd of likely found myself doing an endo right into the stream when I hit the rocks.

    Okay so not all rides are epics. I understand that but sometimes you see things on trails that just want to make you scream, "Okay, What dumb %$#@#$$%^^ did this"!!.....Sorry to go on like this but I needed to vent. ... okay back to the torch review...

    The ride took about two hours. During that time I ran the M1 on it's 50% mode most of the time. While I had no issues with glare per say I have to admit some trails just require a wider beam pattern. The trails I rode tonight were twisty, wide and technical. Trails like that just require a more wider beam pattern. Not that they can't be done with a torch as a helmet light, it's just that if you use a torch on trail like this you sometimes end up missing the best lines if you are riding at speed. I'll keep that in mind the next time I do a night ride. Tonight I really could of used my XP3.

    Did a short little video with my phone camera when I got back to the car that I think will help demonstrate the usable throw of the PFlexPro M1 ( link ). Not sure the video does it justice..I could see the far goals way better than the video shows. Once again this is with a battery that was more than **halfway discharged ( LG-MJ1 3500mAh cell / Cree XPL HI ( 5000K bin )

    **Edit; Forgot that I started the ride while still a bit of daylight. I used the lights maybe 1.5hrs. The battery in the torch discharged 1551mAh so it used a little less than half of it's charge.

  67. #67
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    PFlexPro Convoy M1...neutral white...continued

    Did another ride with the M1 on the lid. This time did my favorite local trail and had a great time. No problems with the M1 and no excessive glare as long as I wasn't using the full power and looking at something real close.

    Using a torch with a tight beam pattern has it's uses but it really depends on the trail and how wide / twisty it is. I have a torch with a wider beam pattern but it doesn't have the throw of the M1. The good part is I can bring both and use whichever one makes the most sense ( depending on where I'm riding and the type of trail. On the ride I just did the M1 was perfect. Believe me I was doing some fast technical stuff and on high the M1 did a very good job of letting me see everything I needed to see. Usually on this loop I take anywhere from 1.5 hrs. to 2hrs. I was feeling good so I was moving along so probably took 1.5hrs.

    Only had one complaint the whole ride. Near the end of this loop is a swoopy, fast, roller-coaster type downhill. At the very end of the hill there is a very narrow, rocky turn around a tree and then a short 15ft stretch of jagged rocks. I've only managed to clear this section a couple times. Since I was feeling good I was really looking forward to this section. Right as I was approaching the end of the hill I was fully mentally prepared and ready to take on the rocks. Then just before I reach the hairpin turn I had to hit the brakes....Dead fall!, 5ft before the hairpin turn. Big one too. ( Hey, it wasn't there last week! ). Well, after I climbed around the fallen tree I had no choice but to walk over the last stretch of rocks. There just wasn't enough room to get on my bike, start riding and then have enough momentum to get me safely over the rock garden.

    Oh well, at least I know that by the next time I ride that trail someone will have likely cleared out the tree. Apparently there were numerous dead falls on that trail because I saw a lot of cleared trees so someone has put some time in with a good chainsaw. To those people I tip my hat.

    My next rides will be with my trusty XP3 on the lid...enough of torches for a while.

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