rebuilding a NiteRider 11 AA cell pack- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    rebuilding a NiteRider 11 AA cell pack

    Do any of you folks know what that little strip of material does that I found inside my Niterider 11 AA cell NiMh battery pack? I am rebuilding it and want to make sure I donít remove a necessary component. It looks like it has some function, but I get weird ohmmeter readings. It doesnít appear to be heat sensitive. Could it be a fuse of some sort? Any info is appreciated. Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Does it look like this? This is a PTC overcurrent fuse. You probably want it in your pack.



    Other good NiMH battery building info:

    https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/diy-lights-how-build-your-own-battery-52685.html
    Long Live Long Rides

  3. #3
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    350 = 3.5A ...
    probably won't work with the halogen,... unless niterider has some additional circuit.
    ----
    DIY battery + light working on it

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb_robs-x
    350 = 3.5A ...
    probably won't work with the halogen,... unless niterider has some additional circuit.
    That will work fine. Even you go to the extreme of 20W bulb at 6V (don't even know if these are available), that's still 3.3A. 35W at 13.2V is 2.65A. The more common 15W at 6V is 2.5A and 20W at 13.2V is about 1.5A.

    That said, I would probably opt for the 4.2A PTC if I were buying new just to be sure. If you are reusing, what ever is in there is fine.
    Long Live Long Rides

  5. #5
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    note as simple as that.

    halogen have low impedance when cold,
    initial current be probably in the 15-25A
    that's why the li-ion packs won't power it.
    nimh 7.4v pack does fine with 35A continuous, and peak much larger.

    35w bulb at 12 volt be 35/12 = amps
    but at 13.2V it probably be 45W, so 45 / 13.2
    that's why the battery is drained faster than calculated,
    on top of it , the start surge current, really does a job on draining the battery.

    back to topic, the niterider, should have some delay circuit in the lamp body,
    that should work. don't think e battery has any.

    still working on a halogen light, old school setup, but also need the battery to work with it.
    target 1000 lumen plus, for small, and 1750 lumen for big,
    times 2 , high low beam, ~3000 lumen both.
    also digging out the HID,... 3000-5000 lumen,
    LED 1200 to 10000 lumen, but now you talking monster , battery and lamp,... and monster price tag. 2-3 times lupine ,...

    the halogen, looks promising, 2hrs + runtime, and everything reasonable,
    I mean 1/2 price of niterider 1200, with same lumen, but shorter runtime.

    note: old bulbs, get coated, aka, looks like a mirror on the inside of the bulb,
    decreased light output,... till pop.
    buddy runs 14.4V nimh pack with 20W bulb,.... 20W draws like 37W,... gets really hot,
    but he turns on only on fast track.


    Quote Originally Posted by Homebrew
    That will work fine. Even you go to the extreme of 20W bulb at 6V (don't even know if these are available), that's still 3.3A. 35W at 13.2V is 2.65A. The more common 15W at 6V is 2.5A and 20W at 13.2V is about 1.5A.

    That said, I would probably opt for the 4.2A PTC if I were buying new just to be sure. If you are reusing, what ever is in there is fine.
    ----
    DIY battery + light working on it

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