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  1. #1
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    NON Magicshine lights

    i posted a few weeks ago about lights and got way different responses than i expected. most people loved magicshine and suggested i needed 800 plus lumens for night riding/racing- maybe thay say that because the magic sine is $100 and puts out that many lumens. anyway, ive decided i DO NOT WANT MAGICSHINE. i work in a bike shop and dont get (vastly)overworked and (vastly)underpaid to buy made in china stuff. im looking at dinotte, which nobody i have talked to has ever seen, but it seems like real high end stuff (and id have to pay retail). today the owner of my shop suggested a niterider higher end system (and i quote... "because when your out in places like moab or tahoe, you know the shops there will carry niterider stuff"), and i may take his advice- and id get a hefty discount on NR too. id also get a discount on Light and Motion stuff, as well as cygolite. right now id like to start fresh with the suggestions and say im leaning towards ~1000 lumens from dinotte or ~1200 from NR. is paying retail for dinotte really worth it? and do i REALLY (be honest, because im new to night riding) need at least 800 lumens to ride successfully at night on singletrack? thanks

  2. #2
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    Dinotte>NR
    Look at the Amoeba by Scar here on the forum and the 500L by Zen Bicycle at Trailled.com.
    Non proprietary batteries for both.
    Not sure how dealers having NR in Moab helps unless you are talking about demo's to borrow at a big race.
    You have a NR battery fail on you and you will be waiting a while for the replacement.

  3. #3
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    yeah, about the battery... it sounded good and convincing when he said it. i was seriously looking at scars lights and just it was hard for me to buy into the hype, as it almost seemed like a magicshine thing (too good to be true etc). still considering the amoeba, though. but if i could get a more powerful NR system for like 3/5 the cost of a new dinotte, is it worth it? are the electronics in NR really as mediocre as they say?

  4. #4
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    Not sure on the mediocrity of the electronics in general. Some battery issues and drivers are often in the battery pack.
    So propriety batteries, connectors, chargers. Not a good thing if you want to hack or upgrade DIY style.
    Replacement batteries are very overpriced as are the connectors.
    Got turned off of NR quickly due to these issues.
    You need a helmet light for the racing and the Pro1200 isn't really helmet friendly. Just too big and the battery is large as well.
    The 500L and the Amoeba can be run with any 7.4 volt battery. You can also use a 6x AA battery holder and rechargeble batteries. Just need an extra connector from Scar or Zen to attach to the battery pack.

  5. #5
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    you an also consider the hope vision 4Led lightning system! ~1000Lumens with very good beam for trails or not too fast (beyond 45km/h) rides...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeem
    and do i REALLY (be honest, because im new to night riding) need at least 800 lumens to ride successfully at night on singletrack? thanks
    Need 800lumens? No, absolutly not. Think about this, what did folks do before HID and high power led systems? They rode with 10-25 watt halogen systems. They don't put out anywhere near 800 lumens.

    However, given the choice between a 10 watt halogen and an 800lumen LED system, I would always choose the brighter LED system. More light isn't "needed" but it doesn't hurt either.

  7. #7
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    I have been running the 1000lumens light in the link for a few months. An Australian company. Great light, great price. (More so for you with US$ exchange rate)

    http://www.hidtechnologies.com.au/Lumen8rPygmyMax.php
    The twenty-nine inch wheel.

  8. #8
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    thanks for the advice. if i go with NR id get the led600 for the helmet, supposing its a good system, and the 700 for the bars, just because i get a great discount on it. if i do L and M id get the 300 for the helmet and 400 for the bars (this would be my cheapest option). and if i fo a dinotte id get either 2 400's or maybe a 400 for the helmet and 600 for the bars. its all just so confusing.

    this was what i was really asking about

    Need 800lumens? No, absolutly not. Think about this, what did folks do before HID and high power led systems? They rode with 10-25 watt halogen systems. They don't put out anywhere near 800 lumens.

    i did a few rides with a VERY old niterider light, and it seemed really bright and probably pretty good to me, and it was an old halogen light with what felt like a 10 lb battery. i know more light is better, but is there a lower limit on the minimum amount of light you need to ride at night? if i really get into night racing (more than 1-2 a year MAX) id probably just spring for new lights. would it really be such a crime to ONLY ride with like 600 lumens?

    also, are there any lights which stand up to weather better than others?- i ride in the rain and mud and snow and cold and heat etc, and id imagine sme lights have better weatherproofing

  9. #9
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    Originally posted by skeem
    i was seriously looking at scars lights and just it was hard for me to buy into the hype, as it almost seemed like a magicshine thing (too good to be true etc).

    Hey skeem, that is the first time that I have heard that It is for real.

    Are any of these factors important to you when choosing a light?

    1. - Size
    2. - Weight
    3. - Non proprietary batteries (3hr, 6hr, 9hr, 12hr Li-Ion, or AA battery holders)
    4. - Customer service
    5. - A light that is made by someone who uses their lights on an almost daily basis and knows the importance of reliability and has the same passion for biking.


    I am just trying to raise my kids in today's world, perform at my job during the day, build some lights on Friday and Saturday nights, and trying to get a bike ride in there somewhere. 95% of my riding is done in the dark at 5am because of all of my other commitments, therefore I need lights. I also like sharing my stuff with others that value a handmade, custom light and the service that goes with it.


    Let me know if I can answer any questions or concerns. The Amoeba light is totally weatherproof as I ride in the dark year round no matter what the conditions..


    ***

  10. #10
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    I have the Dinotte 400/800L combo and I can't be more pleased with it. 400 on the helmet and 800 on the bar and I have plenty of light to see with. The combo came with all the mounts to have the 400 as a tail light, bar mounted light, or helmet light. I also sprung for the headband since I have some occasional non-cycling uses where a head mounted light would be handy.

    I had an issue with one of my batteries but a quick call to Dinotte had a replacement battery and charger in my hands within a week.

    I'm very pleased with the build quality and performance. Should I ever need new/more lights I'll definitely buy Dinotte again.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeem
    i did a few rides with a VERY old niterider light, and it seemed really bright and probably pretty good to me, and it was an old halogen light with what felt like a 10 lb battery. i know more light is better, but is there a lower limit on the minimum amount of light you need to ride at night? if i really get into night racing (more than 1-2 a year MAX) id probably just spring for new lights. would it really be such a crime to ONLY ride with like 600 lumens?
    I believe a 10watt halogen will put out approximatly 200lumens. If you know what the old NR system you used was it may give you an approximate comparision.

    Be warned, the light output quote by light mfg's rarely corresponds with actual lumen output. IMO, the best comparision is done with beam shots...

    If you havn't seen it yet, you'll be interested in the MTBR 2010 light shootout.
    http://reviews.mtbr.com/blog/2010-mtbr-lights-shootout/

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeem
    i posted a few weeks ago about lights and got way different responses than i expected. most people loved magicshine and suggested i needed 800 plus lumens for night riding/racing- maybe thay say that because the magic sine is $100 and puts out that many lumens. anyway, ive decided i DO NOT WANT MAGICSHINE. i work in a bike shop and dont get (vastly)overworked and (vastly)underpaid to buy made in china stuff. im looking at dinotte, which nobody i have talked to has ever seen, but it seems like real high end stuff (and id have to pay retail). today the owner of my shop suggested a niterider higher end system (and i quote... "because when your out in places like moab or tahoe, you know the shops there will carry niterider stuff"), and i may take his advice- and id get a hefty discount on NR too. id also get a discount on Light and Motion stuff, as well as cygolite. right now id like to start fresh with the suggestions and say im leaning towards ~1000 lumens from dinotte or ~1200 from NR. is paying retail for dinotte really worth it? and do i REALLY (be honest, because im new to night riding) need at least 800 lumens to ride successfully at night on singletrack? thanks
    One thing to consider, is the advice your getting on this forum are from people who are using many of the products been suggested to you.They are taking the time to try and help you with there suggestions. At the end of the day,YOU have to make the decision.NR/Cygolight/Dinotte/LM have been included in responses to your original post.It will drive you nutz over analyzing what has been suggested to you.Take a few moments,maybe re-read the advice from your original post,and go for it!!!Good Luck!!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeem
    also, are there any lights which stand up to weather better than others?- i ride in the rain and mud and snow and cold and heat etc, and id imagine sme lights have better weatherproofing
    The Amoeba lights are very popular in Oregon (wet,muddy 10 months of the year).

    I have had 3 sets of NR halogens in my family and 2 of the 3 have had problems with the connectors and electronics. Don't know about their LED lights but would have a hard time buying one given my past experience.

  14. #14
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    My Jet Lite setup has been great for 5 years now (old halogen headlamp & big battery) ....
    I'm sure the newer stuff is very good too, pretty sure they got LED lights nice & bright.

  15. #15
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    I've long been an opponent of the "lumen race", and honestly you can ride and survive with very little light. Back years ago, I used a tiny LED hiking light for everything but the tough downhills in one of the mountain bike endurance races in Pisgah. It couldn't have been more than 50 lumens. Yes, it certainly was slower with so little light, but it was manageable, and after 12 hour of racing a little slower isn't such a bad thing.

    In my opinion, there are really two factors you have to take into account. The first is how much light do you need to be able to ride at close to daylight race speed assuming thatís your goal. The second, if you ride with other people, or are racing in races where you'll be around a lot of other people, how much light will they be using. That matters because your eyes will adjust to amount of light around you. If you have significantly less light than the folks around you, your light will be drowned out.

    On the first point, and this varies somewhat person to person, I can get close to daylight race speeds with 200 lumens on the helmet and 200 lumens on the bars in a solo setting where I don't come across brighter lights that mess up my night vision. I'm a big proponent of having nearly equal amount of light bar / helmet. If I do ride with a brighter light, I use it on the helmet. Having a brighter light on the bars causes your eyes to adjust to that and then the effectiveness of the helmet light suffers and it becomes harder to see around corners. That doesn't necessarily mean you have to use the same light bar/helmet, but I wouldn't overdo it on the bars and I would tend to run the bar light at a brightness setting that matches the helmet. Also, itís not just lumens, beam patterns for helmet and bar is also relevant.

    On the second point, and this is the one that drives me a little crazy, the problem is that the average person on group night rides and at races tends to have around 800 lumens total these days. I find that I have to match that to be able to approach daylight race speeds. I think that's where the 800 total lumen recommendation is really coming from. Unfortunately this will likely continue to escalate. But I have noticed that once you get into the 800 lumen range, it doesn't appear to be as big of an issue if people have somewhere brighter lights. But when people start showing up with 2000+ total lumens I suspect it'll become a problem again.

    As far as Dinotte, L&M, and NR. I've worked on all three lights. You can tell someone passionate about riding and his lights designed the Dinotteís. It's not that L&M and NR lights are bad, and it does vary somewhat model to model, but they have shipped some lights and chargers that seemed to have been rushed out the door a little too quickly. But all three brands are good quality. Youíre in a funny situation where Dinotte isnít a lot cheaper. In your case, you should just pick based on which you like best and price. Look at the details like mounts, chargers, battery mounting, and beam patterns. I generally like L&M designs better than NR, but I really hate how high the SECA series mounts on the helmet. Iím not a fan of the beam pattern on the Stella.

    I don't have anything against individuals building and selling lights, but I tend to think they cater best to someone who has the knowledge and would like to build their own lights, but simply doesn't have the time. When you get into this space, you don't really know if the person is going to be around in a couple of years and you often get a light that still needs a little tinkering to get the way you want it. To an extent, you're picking a person as much as you are a light if you want support long term. You also need to look at things like the accessories for these types of light. Do you like the way the mounts work. Will the mounts work well on your helmet or bars? What do they do about chargers? Are they providing a charger of their own design or passing along something like one of the questionable Chinese made chargers. If you've decided you don't want to get that from Magicshine, you shouldn't turn around and buy the same thing from an individual builder.

  16. #16
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    I guess I can see wanting the Niterider support at races, I have heard they will hook you up with charging stations, fresh batteries, or whatever. But considering that all of their stuff is proprietary and quite expensive, I'm still not sure I wouldn't just buy a Magicshine and buy several batteries, chargers, and lightheads. I mean you could buy 2 complete setups, complete with spare batteries and chargers for like 180 dollars, and then you'd have backups in case of complete failure.
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    I've been night riding for 15 years, started out with a Nightsun Team handlebar light. I live in CT where we dont have any long,fast downhills that you can outrun a light. I have been using the Dinotte 5 led lights, one on the handlebar and another helmet mount. 200 lumens each. Its been working fine. Until I just upgraded to Li-Ion batteries,, my lights ran on AA batteries. I could carry as many spares with me as I wanted. I never had to worry about a dead battery.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeem
    i posted a few weeks ago about lights and got way different responses than i expected. most people loved magicshine and suggested i needed 800 plus lumens for night riding/racing- maybe thay say that because the magic sine is $100 and puts out that many lumens. anyway, ive decided i DO NOT WANT MAGICSHINE. i work in a bike shop and dont get (vastly)overworked and (vastly)underpaid to buy made in china stuff. im looking at dinotte, which nobody i have talked to has ever seen, but it seems like real high end stuff (and id have to pay retail). today the owner of my shop suggested a niterider higher end system (and i quote... "because when your out in places like moab or tahoe, you know the shops there will carry niterider stuff"), and i may take his advice- and id get a hefty discount on NR too. id also get a discount on Light and Motion stuff, as well as cygolite. right now id like to start fresh with the suggestions and say im leaning towards ~1000 lumens from dinotte or ~1200 from NR. is paying retail for dinotte really worth it? and do i REALLY (be honest, because im new to night riding) need at least 800 lumens to ride successfully at night on singletrack? thanks
    How about Exposure Lights?
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  19. #19
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    I've heard good things about the Baja design lights. I have a Lupine Betty with a Dinotte 400 taillight. I know there are a lot of very good lights on the market these days. One thing to reiterate from another poster is to consider buying a light from a major manufacturer that has a good track record. There are some independents here that offer good lights, but they may not be here tomorrow, or five years from tomorrow. I do agree with you about MS. Good for you not following the herd. I would't even consider MS. No snub to anyone who has one.

  20. #20
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    Well, hereís the $0.02 from a guy who has had more lights than he should. Iíve had halogen NiteRiders, Trinewts, MiniUSB, Pro 1200ís, Dinotte 400L and 800L, Magicshine, Cycolite Mitycross 350, Fenix L2D flashlights and the list goes on. Never a Lupine though - yet.

    > >
    For a helmet light my hands down favorite is the Dinotte 400L. I used to run it with the battery in my Camelbak but now run it with the battery mounted on the helmet. For the bars, my favorites are the NiteRider Pro1200 and Trinewt (which I still think has the smoothest, best beam pattern for MTB, but thatís personal preference). Drawback to the NR Pro1200 is the battery weight Ė itís heavy. Very heavy. Also expensive. Drawback to Trinewt is the battery Ė proprietary and expensive to replace. Many consider it old technology but hey, it works.

    > >
    Iíve never had ANY problems with connectors breaking or coming undone with Dinottes. Iíve had the TriNewt and Pro1200 connectors come undone while riding, but not very often and usually when I either fell or routed the cables wrong. Had one Trinewt head fry on me, took it to Niterider and had it back the next day. Helps I'm in San Diego.

    > >
    Probably the most underrated light out there are the Cygolites. They are, IMHO, great lights for the money. The LED tints run on the bluer (cooler) side though, like Dinotte. Warmer is nicer on the trail in my opinion.

    > >
    Do I run the lights on high? Hardly ever. Iím usually riding with the Pro1200 set at 400 lumens and the Dinotte 400L on the helmet on medium. They both get switched to low on long, slow climbs. I rode with a Cygolite Mitycross 350 on the bars set to Medium a few nights ago along with the Dinotte 400L on the helmet and didnít need more light.
    > >
    One thing to remember is to try and match the LED tints on your helmet and bar lights. Same manufacturer for both is usually good. Cygolite and Dinotte tints play well together. BTW, donít try the NR Pro1200 on the helmet Ė heavy and sticks up too much. You want the light mounted low on your helmet for balance, comfort and safety. The Dinotte 400L and Mitycross series mount nice and low.
    > >
    For the bars, look for a wide, floody beam. For the helmet, something spottier.

    Anyway, hope this ramble of mine helps.

  21. #21
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    I wonder if there's going to be any new stuff out at the end of summer or beginning of fall.
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  22. #22
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    thanks for all the advice. about my old NR, it was a 12 halogen but one of the bulbs was like half lit (it was free) and i guess i managed with that.

    another thing is that most of the riding ill be doing will be solo, and as for racing, im sure the people will have top of the line lights, as the race series i do is FILLED with the nicest mtb's you have ever seen (mines pretty damn nice and its overshadowed).

    @ kingofthehill, i think your talking up the dinotte 400 is sorta sealing the deal (as i called them today and they were real nice too). i was sorta set on that for a helmet one regardless. and thanks for chiming in about the cygolite (as i can get a good discount on them too), that mitycross 350 and dinotte 400 setup, would that be adequate? should i just spend the extra $200 and get 2 dinotte's with 4 cell batteries? thanks.

  23. #23
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    oh, and do you think that companies like dinotte and other more boutique brands will be around in 5-10 years? i almost always buy things to last and things which will have lasting support (king, paul, shimano, thomson etc etc) -- the high end stuff you will be able to get replacement parts for from the manufacturer in 6 years from now.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeem
    oh, and do you think that companies like dinotte and other more boutique brands will be around in 5-10 years? i almost always buy things to last and things which will have lasting support (king, paul, shimano, thomson etc etc) -- the high end stuff you will be able to get replacement parts for from the manufacturer in 6 years from now.
    Well, nobody has a crystal ball, but if that's a really big concern for you I would say that's probably a plus for L&M and NR over Dinotte. Just because they are more established in the market and have already been around for longer. Dinotte is doing well and is fairly popular, but doesn't have the established retail channels that L&M and NR have.

    The wild card here is the potential impact of companies like Magicshine on the bike light market in general.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeem

    @ kingofthehill, i think your talking up the dinotte 400 is sorta sealing the deal (as i called them today and they were real nice too). i was sorta set on that for a helmet one regardless. and thanks for chiming in about the cygolite (as i can get a good discount on them too), that mitycross 350 and dinotte 400 setup, would that be adequate? should i just spend the extra $200 and get 2 dinotte's with 4 cell batteries? thanks.
    I think the Mitycross 350 combined with a Dinotte 400L is more than adequate. Depending on how much you can get the 350 for though, getting two 400L's wouldn't cost that much more. I know Dinotte was running a sale not too long ago and if you went with two 400L's you would have interchangeable batteries and a lens kit to fine tune the beam to your liking.

    I've had Dinotte lights for almost 2 years with no problems at all.

    I'd be perfectly happy if all I had to ride with was the 350/400L combo.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeem
    oh, and do you think that companies like dinotte and other more boutique brands will be around in 5-10 years? i almost always buy things to last and things which will have lasting support (king, paul, shimano, thomson etc etc) -- the high end stuff you will be able to get replacement parts for from the manufacturer in 6 years from now.

    Try calling Niterider for support on a halogen light or one of their older series lights. You'll find very little customer service there, or parts will cost you more than the damn thing is worth. In the lighting world things become obsolete pretty quick, which is what sucks about proprietary parts like Niterider has. If your battery craps out you'll be close to buying a whole new setup for the cost of the replacement battery.
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  27. #27
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    i was thinking the same thing about the dinotte, how having two really helps with compatibility etc. would having say two mitycrosses, or two lm stella 300's work well for me needs if i could get them for less than half the cost of two dinotte 400's? while i value high end stuff and hate to skimp, having a few hundred extra bucks in my pocket would be nice (after all, im only a poor bike mechanic )

  28. #28
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    Hmm, I've never tried two Mitycross 350's at the same time. I've used one on the bars and then tried it on the helmet and liked it, but I like it a bit more on the bars. Reason is the crossfire thing where the beams spread out towards the sides some, leaving the middle bright, but not as bright as a few feet on either side. For a helmet light I like something that is spottier, hence the Dinotte.

    Don't get me wrong, I think the 350 makes a fine helmet light because of its size, low profile and brightness. If you can get two 350's for half the cost of the Dinottes, get the Mitycrosses. You'll have compatibility with batteries, redundant helmet and bar mounts, two chargers...

  29. #29
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    king of the hill, you really know your stuff. i guess id like to keep my entire system (for now) from one brand so i can have the ability to change things around, as well as worrying about parts/service/warranty etc etc.

    i still really think dinottes are sexy but having the extra $180 id save from getting a cygolite system may be useful (it sucks when you break a chain or need a cassette and you have no money). just curious, have you ever used a light and motion system, because i can get a 2 light system from them for the exact cost of two cygolite 350's

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    If you're not interested in purchasing "made in china" systems, I'd recommend adding L&M to that list -- well, at least their batteries. I'd be surprised if the other manufactures don't have parts that come from that region as well.

    I just took this picture, you're welcomed to look at the EXIF tag. This is the battery for my L&M Seca Race 900. The actual headlamp doesn't have a "made in" label on it, I may have peeled it off when I first got it. After having purchased both the L&M and a Magicshine, I'm a bit curious as to your rational reasons against purchasing a magicshine?



    edit: picture size was too big.

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    i dont mean made in china is bad, i mostly meant like second tier companies who offer such good deals you cant refuse. the attitude of "if my magicshine breaks in one year, i can still get another and come out ahead". maybe im old school or something, but i value high quality stuff. maybe im too cynical but something seems too good to be true with the magicshine.

    dont want to rant, but most of the bikes the tdf riders ride are made in asia and theyre as good as made in america or made in italy carbon bikes. its just when everything regarded as high quality costs x dollars and then something claimed to be as good costs x/4 dollars something seems wrong to me. hell, maybe magicshine is just so committed to taking over the market that their profit margins are fractional. i dont know but im just a skeptic. and as i said before, i bust my ass in a bike shop so i can ride the nicest sh!t.

  32. #32
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    Ah.

    The SECA 900 is a great light, and the best feature I like about it -- it auto-dims based on temperature of the light/led's. If you stop, and still have it on max brightness, it'll automatically dim it if the unit gets too hot.. start moving again, and when it cools down, it'll go back to your last setting (in my scenario, max brightness)

    GL with your purchase.

  33. #33
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    I can highly recommend these guys : http://www.ayup-lights.com/

    Ive been using a set of theirs for the past 2 years, without a single issue. Theyre small, light, the small batteries last 4hrs, the large batteries 6hrs, the mounting systems they use are brilliant and their service is just awesome.

  34. #34
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    NR is great. Until you have to replace a battery. I just purchased an AY UP for my helmet and it beats the crap out of the NR Minewt Dual. I've had the minewt Dual for 1.5 years and the battery run time is about half of what it was when it was new. It's $140 to buy a replacement. Extra AY UP batteries cost me about $50 and have run times 2x as long.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeem
    oh, and do you think that companies like dinotte and other more boutique brands will be around in 5-10 years? i almost always buy things to last and things which will have lasting support (king, paul, shimano, thomson etc etc) -- the high end stuff you will be able to get replacement parts for from the manufacturer in 6 years from now.

    ??? With how quickly the technology is advancing, who is going to keep a light for 6 years anyway????

  36. #36
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    I've never used a Light & Motion system before. I was considering the Seca 700 when they first came out but ended up with a Dinotte 800/400 combo instead. For the money, it was too good a deal. Two lights for the price of the L&M Seca.

    There are some good beamshots burried in the acidinmylegs.blogspot.com website.

    Here's a link to some Dinotte 800 & 400 beamshots I took a while back: HERE

  37. #37
    Aussie Aussie Aussie!
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  38. #38
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    +1 for the seca, been riding with fatredcircle for a while, I've read a few reviews, and that seca is a top performer, it has really long throw, we were sitting up high on a hill and lighting up people about 150 yards away.

  39. #39
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    +1 for Dinotte. I have the 1200L, the 600L and the 400L. They are bullet proof and work great.

    Yes, you can ride with less lumens, but why?

    I've found the service to be first rate and the quality to be the same. Very happy with my stuff.

    J.

  40. #40
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    When I wanted some LED lights I went with Dinotte. I got a 200L Dual setup, putting out 400 lumens. It has been a few years now, and I have been very happy with the quality and reliability of the system.
    When under pressure, your level of performance will sink to your level of preparation.

  41. #41
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    i guess right now its between cygolite and dinotte, ill just have to see if anything on any of my bikes need fixing. 2 dinotte 400's if the money is good and 2 mitycross 350's if i need to save (the mitycross 350's seem to get GREAT reviews on mtbr and other places).

    i was looking at the whole ayup thing pretty seriously until i saw the zip tie handlebar mount thing (and that dinottes cost around the same)-- im not a fan of zip tie attachment, especially for a $500 product. i like things to be able to switch between bikes, as i ride road and mtb equal amounts. theyre sexy as hell, and seem pretty good but i think i need to start narrowing down my choices, or ell ill be debating this time next year and be sans light.

  42. #42
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    +1 for Cygolite service. I picked up a TridenX on eBay with a missing button last week. E-mailed them and they sent out a new button for free on the same day.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeem
    i was thinking the same thing about the dinotte, how having two really helps with compatibility etc. would having say two mitycrosses, or two lm stella 300's work well for me needs if i could get them for less than half the cost of two dinotte 400's? while i value high end stuff and hate to skimp, having a few hundred extra bucks in my pocket would be nice (after all, im only a poor bike mechanic )
    fyi, one of the other cool things about the Dinotte 400L is that you get a lens kit for it (it's like $5 or $10 or something) so one of your 400L's has a narrow spot beam, and the other (assumably on the bars) has a wider flood beam. There's 3 lenses and each 400L has 2 led's.

    I'm used to thinking about lights in commuting terms, and the biggest downside to the 400L is that the mount is screwed on, but the plastic mount is thin enough that someone could bust it off and steal it by hand. Probably not a concern with mountain biking though, unless you want to regularly (daily or weekly) transfer it back and forth between a mountain bike and a commuter bike.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim311
    I wonder if there's going to be any new stuff out at the end of summer or beginning of fall.
    I know Light and Motion is releasing a Seca 1400 with a redesigned beam pattern (more throw and a wider beam at the long end were mentioned) for the same cost and weight as their Seca 900. Supposedly will be out this month (July).

  45. #45
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    Hate to bust your bubble but almost every thing come tor China now I am a Ase master tec and 90 % of auto parts made today is from china You just can not get away from it
    I love my M/S The Dinotte is just way over price. I have seen the Dinotte on the bike trails and they really do not put any more light that the M/s so for the money you just cant beat them

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by stingray66
    Hate to bust your bubble but almost every thing come tor China now I am a Ase master tec and 90 % of auto parts made today is from china You just can not get away from it
    I love my M/S The Dinotte is just way over price. I have seen the Dinotte on the bike trails and they really do not put any more light that the M/s so for the money you just cant beat them
    Uh...Dinotte makes lights from 200 lumens to 1200 lumens. Any chance you could be more specific about which Dinotte you mean?

    I mean actually, if the $90 Magicshine puts out the same light as a $125 Dinotte, I would take the Dinotte. From everything I've read, it's a better built light and perhaps with better customer support. I know my 200L has lasted years without incident. The wires aren't fraying (Magicshine), the battery pack doesn't have a problem getting wet (Magicshine, the old one at least), it's a very nicely built light.

    Of course this isn't really a fair comparison - from what I've read, the Magicshine is about 400-500 actual lumens, so you'd need 2 Dinotte 200L's to produce the same light output. That's like $230 (for a 400L), vs $90 for the Magicshine (prices without shipping). It's difficult to justify spending 2.5 times as much for better quality.

  47. #47
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    i talked to cygolite today (someone answered the phone, which is big plus), and they have a EP program which is even cheaper than i thought i could have gotten it before (through qbp), and it was cheap then. i guess now i dont see how i cant get 2 cygolite 350's, seeing as ill have ~$250 left over from what i intended to spend. thought higher end lights (dinotte, or more powerful systems) may be nice $250 is a good chunk of cash regardless

  48. #48
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    Check out the 500l if you don't mind, and you are not tied to Cygolight or the Darkstar which is up on MTBR light shootout. I like to think they are a fairly rugged system



    Under Tire

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4mula1
    I have the Dinotte 400/800L combo and I can't be more pleased with it.
    I hear this alot...Dinotte must be really nice lights.


    But...I'd check out Scar. Heck man, he'd probably take custom build order as well. I've seen some pretty hairy stuff that he's made. Now that he's doing double XP-G's with Regina reflectors...I dont' know why you'd do anything else.


    I use a 700lm helmet mount with a tighter beam. (double Regina XP-G)
    And an 1100lm bar mount with a slightly floodier setup. (triple xP-G 20mm Carclo) It's on the helmet in this picture, but I run it on the bars.
    The two of them together look like this.

    This has been a wonderful setup for me. I've sold them to a couple of people for $150 and $200 respectively.


    What you want is out there...I'd suggest going with a custom builder so you have something unique and of better quality. XP-G's are killah!

  50. #50
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    Just did my first long night bike ride of the season the other night. 1200L with 400L taillight was perfect. Was a road ride on hilly twisty rural roads, pitch black. Lights worked great - 1200L on medium except for the downhills or tight turns. 400L kept cars off my rear wheel, often giving me a whole lane of buffer.

    These are great lights. Highly recommended.

    J.

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