Niterider Pro1800- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 37 of 37
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    110

    Niterider Pro1800

    Been looking into getting the Niterider Pro 1800, so when it starts getting dark early, I can ride after work. Am wondering for those of you who use it if the battery lasts long enough, since it's claimed for only 1.5 hours on high. I am considering spending the extra $200 to get the Pro 3600, since it's claimed 3 hours on 1800 lumens.

  2. #2
    EAT MORE GRIME
    Reputation: 127.0.0.1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    4,547
    um, use it on a mode below highest, you'll still have a lot of light and it'll run a much longer time. no one really needs the max power of these lights all the time...

    hell I have a 1100 lumen headlamp that'll last 1.2 hours on high, but 3 hours on 700 lumens. 700 is plenty bright for the high speed singletrack I ride on...ymmv

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,462
    Quote Originally Posted by cr500taco View Post
    Been looking into getting the Niterider Pro 1800, so when it starts getting dark early, I can ride after work. Am wondering for those of you who use it if the battery lasts long enough, since it's claimed for only 1.5 hours on high. I am considering spending the extra $200 to get the Pro 3600, since it's claimed 3 hours on 1800 lumens.
    Are you planning on riding with just (one) light?? If you can afford the Pro 3600, I would encourage you to look at two lower powered lights of good quality. I've had a light go dead on me in the middle of a night ride (an old NightFlux) And because I was riding with two lights I didn't crash and still had light to finish my ride with. Check out actionledlights.com. The Gemini's or Gloworm products have good user reviews on this forum. Also Scar's Amoeba lights are high quality and well respected by his customers. If you insist on riding with just one light bring a quality flashlight with you to help you get home if that one light fails.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    6,071
    The 1800 should make a fine bar lamp. You don't use the maximum setting except for the very fast and/or technical descents. Your medium is 700 lumen, good enough for anything. Your low is 400 lumen. Don't be surprised if you ride in low 50% of the time. I set my Gloworm low on about 300 lumen and I'm fine with that unless the trail I'm on is a bit faster.

    The only other issue you might ask about before buying is whether or not the battery is a "proprietary" battery. If it is you are likely only going to be able to use the Niterider brand of battery if you need or want a replacement. The only reason I mention this is because Niterider ( in the past ) sold lamps that only worked with "Their" batteries. Of course the last issue is price. The Niterider 1800 is almost $300. If it were me I'd go with the Gloworm XS and get the added features of wired remote, switchable optics and more importantly, user programmable mode settings. Not to mention the Gloworm products will work with any MS ( 8.4 volt ) compatible battery.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    110
    Thanks for the replies.

    I actually use two lights, one helmet and the other handle bars. Both are about 900 lumens. I am using the old Niterider slickrock 950 for the bars and the Baja Designs Strykr SL with a spot beam on the helmet. The setup is fine for tight single track, but at times in wide open areas, it's not bright enough. On the downhill, I usually run the lights at full power, because I don't want to deal with trying to adjust their brightness on the fly, especially on the helmet . I had an old Niterider classic, which had a remote switch and I've really missed that feature.

    I never heard of the Gloworm, until you mentioned it Cat-man. I just looked into it and read the reviews on MTBr and now I am considering that. I pulled up MTBr's review of it and it has a nice beam pattern and a remote switch. I compared the beam pattern to that of the Niterider Pro 2200, because I couldn't find the review of the Pro 1800 and it has a very similar pattern.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bigflamingtaco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    297
    I've run the XS and X2 for awhile, and love them. Going to pick up an X1 to complete the set.

    ActionLED is running a sale, and their Gloworm prices were awesome yesterday, but they are up again today even though the sale runs until the end of August. Might want to call them to find out what's up.
    I will suffer no butt-hurt fools!

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,432
    Have you looked at Dinotte lights? I've run a lot of Niterider lights but once I discovered Dinotte I haven't bought another Niterider for the bars. Dinotte seems to be better in nearly every way they could be better as a bar light and especially when it comes to runtime. My XML-3 setup is rated at 2.5hrs on high (1,600 lumens) and I just completed a nearly 4 hour ride with it on high the whole time without running it down or even getting any dimming. Whether it's runtime, quality, lens, color, thermal capacity, or cheapness of batteries, they're hard to beat for the price. Plus they're made in the US.

    I do run a Lumina 700 on my helmet, I really like Niterider for their self contained helmet lights but runtime isn't great on any of them. I usually bring my cellphone booster battery to charge the Niterider on longer rides anytime we stop.

    You can do the Pro 3600 and run it at 1800 lumens for 3 hours of runtime but the Dinotte nearly matches output and should definitely match the runtime for a couple hundred less. Knowing myself, I would have a hard time not running the 3600 at full output just for fun but that's just me. Also, many lights dim after a few minutes due to thermal issues but the Dinottes do not, so that should be factored in too. Just throwing another option out there.
    '08 Hardrock HRXC
    '09 Epic Comp
    '14 Trance SX -

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,462
    Quote Originally Posted by BuickGN View Post
    Have you looked at Dinotte lights? I've run a lot of Niterider lights but once I discovered Dinotte I haven't bought another Niterider for the bars. Dinotte seems to be better in nearly every way they could be better as a bar light and especially when it comes to runtime. My XML-3 setup is rated at 2.5hrs on high (1,600 lumens) and I just completed a nearly 4 hour ride with it on high the whole time without running it down or even getting any dimming. Whether it's runtime, quality, lens, color, thermal capacity, or cheapness of batteries, they're hard to beat for the price. Plus they're made in the US.

    I do run a Lumina 700 on my helmet, I really like Niterider for their self contained helmet lights but runtime isn't great on any of them. I usually bring my cellphone booster battery to charge the Niterider on longer rides anytime we stop.



    .


    You can do the Pro 3600 and run it at 1800 lumens for 3 hours of runtime but the Dinotte nearly matches output and should definitely match the runtime for a couple hundred less. Knowing myself, I would have a hard time not running the 3600 at full output just for fun but that's just me. Also, many lights dim after a few minutes due to thermal issues but the Dinottes do not, so that should be factored in too. Just throwing another option out there.
    Dinotte (do) have thermal protection!! I had to check after I read your post as there were two reasons I felt that claim was incorrect. First was there is no way you would have gotten almost four hours of run time on high out of a two and a half hour battery without thermal step down. Second,,,,, that lamp head would cook itself for sure at some point,(long climb on high setting)for EX:

    Not trying to step on your toes but wanted the OP to get the correct info. I did confirm this on Dinotte website. It was hard to find, but found it in the Q/A section.

    Oh and I do agree with you,,,, the Dinotte is a very good product.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    110
    i looked into the Dinottes after BuickGN suggested it. I am still more impressed with the Gloworm. Seems like its a better value.

    I was looking at the Gloworm, again. One of the things I like about the Niterider lights is that the lamphead is easily detachable from the mount With my light, once I got the !ight aimed to where I want it, I keep the mounnt on the bars and it's easy to remove the lamphead from the mount and throw it back on when I need it. I don't have to worry about re-aiming the light, before each ride.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    6,071
    Quote Originally Posted by cr500taco View Post
    i looked into the Dinottes after BuickGN suggested it. I am still more impressed with the Gloworm. Seems like its a better value.

    I was looking at the Gloworm, again. One of the things I like about the Niterider lights is that the lamphead is easily detachable from the mount With my light, once I got the !ight aimed to where I want it, I keep the mounnt on the bars and it's easy to remove the lamphead from the mount and throw it back on when I need it. I don't have to worry about re-aiming the light, before each ride.
    I generally leave my Gloworm on the bars. I figure it's so small and out of the way why remove it? Of course if you are a commuter it wouldn't be smart to leave it on the bike unattended.

    Otherwise aiming isn't a major issue with the Gloworm because it sits on a pivot mount. Takes 2 sec to aim. Of course the other issue with the Gloworm is that it uses a remote and if removing from the bike you have to remove the remote as well. That would be more an inconvenience than aiming the lamp. That's the main reason I leave mine on the bike because of the remote.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,432
    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    Dinotte (do) have thermal protection!! I had to check after I read your post as there were two reasons I felt that claim was incorrect. First was there is no way you would have gotten almost four hours of run time on high out of a two and a half hour battery without thermal step down. Second,,,,, that lamp head would cook itself for sure at some point,(long climb on high setting)for EX:

    Not trying to step on your toes but wanted the OP to get the correct info. I did confirm this on Dinotte website. It was hard to find, but found it in the Q/A section.

    Oh and I do agree with you,,,, the Dinotte is a very good product.
    I did not say it did not have thermal protection. I said it does not go into thermal protection. If you sit stationary with it on high, eventually it's going to lower the power. However, it will never go to a lower light setting as long as you're moving. If you look at the output graphs in the light review section, just about every other light went to a lower power setting after just a minute or two and I've experienced it on my Niterider lights plenty times. The two Dinottes did not so the review backs up my experience. That's something to factor in when choosing a light with output as one of the big factors. I would rather buy the light with the higher average output in real life than the one that has a higher rating for just a couple minutes. The light head is finned and it seems to have a very good heat transfer to the outside fins as they begin getting warm almost right away. I also like that they use 3 leds at 50% rated output on high instead of 1 led overdriven. It seems like having power spread out over 3 leds will give a couple extra thermal paths to the outside world than a single run hard, not to mention a slight gain in efficiency and longer LED life, not that lifespan has been a problem yet.

    I did a near 4 hour trip on high with no step-down. The light was shut off for about 30 minutes during that time and turned back on. To clarify, the light was running for approx 3:30 to 3:45, the trip was a little longer. I'm not alone in this, others have gone significantly over their rated runtime. Niterider on the other hand has trouble reaching it's rated runtime. I like Niterider, I've owned a ton of their lights but the short runtime is what made me look somewhere else and I'm glad I did. I like their self contained lights for helmet mount, I only wish they lasted longer. I switch my helmet light on low whenever I can get away with it. I usually keep the Dinotte on high all the time just because I can. I've done a 45 minute climb with it on high the whole time and no change in output. This is why I like these lights. At first glance they're kind of plain with slightly better runtime than some others. It's not until you dig a little deeper or own the light that you notice the little things that make them so good.

    Think about what you're saying. You're discrediting my experience with assumptions or guesses, along with a failure to fully understand what I said: " Dinotte (do) have thermal protection!!" I never said it doesn't. "That lamp head would cook itself for sure at some point"..... Would have should have could have but it did not and has not with lots of use. It hasn't even gotten hot enough to step down the power. "There is no way you would have gotten almost four hours of run time on high" But I did, on high, no loss in output. I suggest buying one and seeing for yourself.
    '08 Hardrock HRXC
    '09 Epic Comp
    '14 Trance SX -

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,432
    Quote Originally Posted by cr500taco View Post
    i looked into the Dinottes after BuickGN suggested it. I am still more impressed with the Gloworm. Seems like its a better value.

    I was looking at the Gloworm, again. One of the things I like about the Niterider lights is that the lamphead is easily detachable from the mount With my light, once I got the !ight aimed to where I want it, I keep the mounnt on the bars and it's easy to remove the lamphead from the mount and throw it back on when I need it. I don't have to worry about re-aiming the light, before each ride.
    You're free to like whatever you want but I'm honestly curious as to why you think the Gloworm is a better value? I looked at the X2 which has very similar specs to compare.

    The XML-3 puts out a measured 1,573 stable lumens, not falling off at all from start to finish. Rated runtime on high is 2.5 hrs. Total weight for the light and battery is 355g with the light head weighing 95g. Cost is $229 or 6.87 lumens per dollar.

    The X2 puts out a measured 1,545 lumens at startup which immediately begins falling off and by 3 minutes has fallen to about 1,475 lumens. Rated runtime on high is 2.5 hrs. Total weight for the light and battery is 323g and no idea what the light head by itself weighs. Cost is $255 and lumens per dollar is 6.06 and that's using it's starting brightness.

    They're very closely matched, you could say the output and price are so close that it's a wash but the Dinotte is a little brighter, looks to have less thermal issues, and is a little cheaper. Very close, but I don't see how the Gloworm gets the better value award.

    The mounting system is subjective so I can't argue with that. I can only say that aiming the light takes about 2 seconds so it's really a non issue. I leave mine on the bike most of the time but removing and installing it is very easy. Not as easy as one with a separate mount that stays on the bar, but still under 10 seconds to mount the Dinotte.

    I think either one of these two would be a better choice than the Niterider 1800 if you're worried about runtime.
    '08 Hardrock HRXC
    '09 Epic Comp
    '14 Trance SX -

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    6,071
    @BuickGN ; First, you should work for DiNotte. You do a very convincing job of representing the product. DiNotte does make a very good product. One of their priorities has always been to create a product with very good thermal management and from what I've read both here and other places they do just that.

    I will however call you out on a couple statements you made that seem a little over the top. First you said you've ridden up a hill for 45 minutes with the lamp on high, "just because you could". Okay, but who would normally do that and for that matter we don't know what conditions existed on your climb. Maybe you had good head winds and low temps. Maybe you're a strong rider and can still push 5-10mph going uphill...whatever..we don't know and we weren't there. Secondly, you state on your 4 hour ride there wasn't a loss of output. That's a pretty bold statement unless you ride with an integrating sphere in your back pocket and were doing periodic measurements along the way. I'm not saying the lamp doesn't do a great job of managing heat. I'm just saying it's likely that at some point ( if using full power 100% of the time ) the lamp will likely drop in output to some degree even under favorable conditions. ( If the ( XML-3 ) lamp dropped in output 100 lumen over the course of a 3-4 hrs ride I doubt you would even be able to notice the difference )

    You also say that DiNotte lamps include a circuit for thermal management. I don't doubt that because most decent products do. There are different types of thermal management circuits though and I don't know what type DiNotte uses. If it uses a "big step down" when reaching a certain level of heat the step down would probably be noticeable. Then again some lamps incorporate a more gradual digital step down process. With those I don't think you would notice the drop because the process is intended to be very subtle.

    Doing test rides with lamps will sometimes bring very strange and conflicting results. I've done test rides with the cheap Solarstorms lamps and have had completely opposite results when used on the same trails under similar conditions. Sometimes I've had the lamp head stay relatively warm and on other rides ( used in the same manner ) I had the lamp heads get really hot. Sometimes it has you scratching your head wondering how you can get completely different results.

    Personally I don't think I could ever say any lamp I've used was able to maintain a certain level of output. On a ride it's just impossible to tell since I'm usually using two lamps anyway. Not to mention there are too many other variables to factor in when on a ride so it really would be assuming a lot to say whether or not a lamp was able to maintain a particular output on high but that's my take on it. True testing of thermal management properties are best done under laboratory conditions where the variables are kept to a minimum and the results are obtained by instruments more sensitive than the human eye.

    The MTBreview comparisons using the integrating sphere while interesting leave much to be desired. We don't know what conditions were set in place during the test ( was air flow used? ) or how well each lamp worked while using the sphere. I would be more interested in how a lamp performed over an hour. Three minutes, while better than nothing isn't going to show how well the lamp performs over the duration of a typical ride.

    Regardless, anyway you want to spin it, when it comes down to the usefulness of a lamp there is always going to be a good number of factors that determine whether something is a good buy ( or not ). Thermal loss is just one factor. While I would think it great if the thermal losses were zero, as long as the losses were minimal ( < 10% ) I could accept that as long as the lamp wasn't going into thermal step down every ten minutes. To me the more important issues are, "How well can I see with the lamp" ( beam pattern, choices of optics..etc. ) and what kind of user interface does it have. ( choice of mode options...# of modes ...programmable or not..etc. )

    With DiNotte your UI is set as it the choice of optic. If these fit your personal "Likes" then you have a great lamp at a good price. If they offered the lamps with a choice of emitter ( neutral or cool white ) I would probably own one.

  14. #14
    RAKC
    Reputation: tigris99's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    7,146
    Someone link these test results for 0 lumen drop over the course of a test and getting runtime 1 hr+ over manufacturer ratings cause I call BS on both.


    Also thermal path is about as simple as it gets. The housing being machined so there is a solid flat surface behind the emitter PCB (star) instead of a puck or some other (screw mounted aluminum plate like the really cheap Chinese lights do) way of mounting. The better vs worse at that point for the good lights goes into mass and surface area externally of the case and how air flows around it. Basically thermal dissipation vs heat generated.

    Also the human eye will never detect lumen drop unless its a very rapid change. Especially only 1-200 lumens. That much drop you can't notice unless running identical lights side by side, one warm and one fresh and cold. Which for a brief time ull notice the cold one is very slightly brighter until it warms up.


    Problem is too many companies screw it up trying to save a couple pennies on manufacturing.


    The big thing is most people refuse to understand this stuff has limitations so one thing is a trade off for another. More lumens is either driven harder. 2 xm-l2s together pushing 1500 lumen is NO WHERE NEAR OVER DRIVEN. So they are being driven at 2.6A give or take, their rated at 3 and run at 3.5A no problem. Other option is more emitters so more size/weight.


    Run time is limited by battery tech, more lumens mean more draw from the pack, equals less run time. Not something that can be changed. To increase runtime you need a bigger battery pack.


    To choose lights you choose what is most important to least important. Weight, size, lumens, run time. Then you except the trade offs accordingly. Its not the light manufacturers fault, its the limits of the tech available in the price range. Just like many other things in cycling in general. Cost vs weight vs performance gain vs durability.
    Last edited by tigris99; 08-23-2015 at 11:07 PM.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,462
    Quote Originally Posted by BuickGN View Post
    I did not say it did not have thermal protection. I said it does not go into thermal protection. If you sit stationary with it on high, eventually it's going to lower the power. However, it will never go to a lower light setting as long as you're moving. If you look at the output graphs in the light review section, just about every other light went to a lower power setting after just a minute or two and I've experienced it on my Niterider lights plenty times. The two Dinottes did not so the review backs up my experience. That's something to factor in when choosing a light with output as one of the big factors. I would rather buy the light with the higher average output in real life than the one that has a higher rating for just a couple minutes. The light head is finned and it seems to have a very good heat transfer to the outside fins as they begin getting warm almost right away. I also like that they use 3 leds at 50% rated output on high instead of 1 led overdriven. It seems like having power spread out over 3 leds will give a couple extra thermal paths to the outside world than a single run hard, not to mention a slight gain in efficiency and longer LED life, not that lifespan has been a problem yet.

    I did a near 4 hour trip on high with no step-down. The light was shut off for about 30 minutes during that time and turned back on. To clarify, the light was running for approx 3:30 to 3:45, the trip was a little longer. I'm not alone in this, others have gone significantly over their rated runtime. Niterider on the other hand has trouble reaching it's rated runtime. I like Niterider, I've owned a ton of their lights but the short runtime is what made me look somewhere else and I'm glad I did. I like their self contained lights for helmet mount, I only wish they lasted longer. I switch my helmet light on low whenever I can get away with it. I usually keep the Dinotte on high all the time just because I can. I've done a 45 minute climb with it on high the whole time and no change in output. This is why I like these lights. At first glance they're kind of plain with slightly better runtime than some others. It's not until you dig a little deeper or own the light that you notice the little things that make them so good.

    Think about what you're saying. You're discrediting my experience with assumptions or guesses, along with a failure to fully understand what I said: " Dinotte (do) have thermal protection!!" I never said it doesn't. "That lamp head would cook itself for sure at some point"..... Would have should have could have but it did not and has not with lots of use. It hasn't even gotten hot enough to step down the power. "There is no way you would have gotten almost four hours of run time on high" But I did, on high, no loss in output. I suggest buying one and seeing for yourself.
    I stand by my comment!! You claimed almost four hours on high with NO step down,,, those were your words. You didn't mention a half hour brake when the light was off as well. I've had well over a dozen high end light systems including what I'm running now (2-Betty-R's) and have never had any one of those systems run well over an hour of claimed run time,,, not even close. Maybe Dinotte is the first??? I have done runtime tests on every light system I've owned and your right I guess, maybe I should have gotten my hands on a Dinotte and done a runtime test on it before my comment. But based on your original claim I feel like I'm not discrediting your experience, as IMO it's unlikely.

    Of note,,,,,, my Lupines will step down in such a gradual way that I cant notice the step down with my eyes unless I come to a complete stop for several minutes where then output would fall off dramatically. Maybe the Dinotte has that type of step down and your just not seeing it??Anyway not interested in a pissing match,,, but you posted the bold claim.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    110
    It's a better value for me, because it's customizeable and it's programmable. the reflectors can be switched around to however is needed. if I want to, I can run two floods or if i decide to run it on my helmet later, I can run two spots for a further throw. also, the Gloworm has a remote switch, which appeals to me as I stated before. lastly, but there might be more. the mount looks more solid on the X2. I don't trust strap or o-ring mounts.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,432
    Quote Originally Posted by cr500taco View Post
    It's a better value for me, because it's customizeable and it's programmable. the reflectors can be switched around to however is needed. if I want to, I can run two floods or if i decide to run it on my helmet later, I can run two spots for a further throw. also, the Gloworm has a remote switch, which appeals to me as I stated before. lastly, but there might be more. the mount looks more solid on the X2. I don't trust strap or o-ring mounts.
    That's fully understandable using those criteria. I like the idea of having more than one lens myself.
    '08 Hardrock HRXC
    '09 Epic Comp
    '14 Trance SX -

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,432
    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    I stand by my comment!! You claimed almost four hours on high with NO step down,,, those were your words. You didn't mention a half hour brake when the light was off as well. I've had well over a dozen high end light systems including what I'm running now (2-Betty-R's) and have never had any one of those systems run well over an hour of claimed run time,,, not even close. Maybe Dinotte is the first??? I have done runtime tests on every light system I've owned and your right I guess, maybe I should have gotten my hands on a Dinotte and done a runtime test on it before my comment. But based on your original claim I feel like I'm not discrediting your experience, as IMO it's unlikely.

    Of note,,,,,, my Lupines will step down in such a gradual way that I cant notice the step down with my eyes unless I come to a complete stop for several minutes where then output would fall off dramatically. Maybe the Dinotte has that type of step down and your just not seeing it??Anyway not interested in a pissing match,,, but you posted the bold claim.
    I did not brake for half an hour.

    You seem to have a hard time with reading comprehension so why would I mention more things for you to take out of context? There was a stop, BUT, the light still had a good 3.5 hour runtime if not more. I'm not counting the stop into the runtime.

    My words were also that the lights never went into thermal protection yet you lied and tried to make it sound like I said they do not have thermal protection. I don't see you owning up to your "error". Do all of us a favor and read each post more than once before replying. You're so focused on trying to prove someone wrong that you don't take the time to comprehend what you're reading first. Go buy the light in question and get back with us. Your comments until then are irrelevant.
    '08 Hardrock HRXC
    '09 Epic Comp
    '14 Trance SX -

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,432
    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Someone link these test results for 0 lumen drop over the course of a test and getting runtime 1 hr+ over manufacturer ratings cause I call BS on both.

    Take a look for yourself before you call BS. Do you guys as a group have a hard time comprehending what you read? As I specifically said, the output drop tests are for the first 3-4 minutes of runtime. Many of the lights showed a drop in output in that amount of time. Look in the reviews section, I'm sure you can find the light test section.

    Again if you took the time to read and understand what I wrote, you might know that I'm the one that saw the awesome runtime, not any published test so it would be pretty hard to link you to it.
    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Also thermal path is about as simple as it gets. The housing being machined so there is a solid flat surface behind the emitter PCB (star) instead of a puck or some other (screw mounted aluminum plate like the really cheap Chinese lights do) way of mounting. The better vs worse at that point for the good lights goes into mass and surface area externally of the case and how air flows around it. Basically thermal dissipation vs heat generated.
    Which is why I chose a light with a pretty well finned light head. Is it coincidence that this light is one of the only ones that did not dim after a few minutes? Probably not.

    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Also the human eye will never detect lumen drop unless its a very rapid change. Especially only 1-200 lumens. That much drop you can't notice unless running identical lights side by side, one warm and one fresh and cold. Which for a brief time ull notice the cold one is very slightly brighter until it warms up.

    This is a possible explanation of the long runtime. I definitely noticed zero drop but as you said, a gradual drop over time might not be noticeable. The housing gets hot quickly when stopped but it also cools very quickly with a minimal amount of airflow. Above 5 mph it's near ambient. I was surprised on the first few rides at how quickly it cooled and how cool it ran with just a little airflow.

    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Problem is too many companies screw it up trying to save a couple pennies on manufacturing.


    The big thing is most people refuse to understand this stuff has limitations so one thing is a trade off for another. More lumens is either driven harder. 2 xm-l2s together pushing 1500 lumen is NO WHERE NEAR OVER DRIVEN. So they are being driven at 2.6A give or take, their rated at 3 and run at 3.5A no problem. Other option is more emitters so more size/weight.

    Are you saying that I said they're overdriven? If you are, you might go back and read my post again. Are you saying that my light uses only 2 LEDs? You might look at the product in question. It sounds like someone didn't read again.

    This is why I mentioned the fact that they use 3 LEDs where just one of the same type overdriven would be capable of nearly the same output. The next model up going from 1,600 lumens to 2100 lumens (I think that's the rating) uses 4 of the same LEDs and is under driven the same amount.

    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Run time is limited by battery tech, more lumens mean more draw from the pack, equals less run time. Not something that can be changed. To increase runtime you need a bigger battery pack.
    Or a more efficient light. This is why I mentioned multiple LEDs being under driven vs a single being overdriven. I know the difference in efficiency isn't much but I'm sure it helps.

    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    To choose lights you choose what is most important to least important. Weight, size, lumens, run time. Then you except the trade offs accordingly. Its not the light manufacturers fault, its the limits of the tech available in the price range. Just like many other things in cycling in general. Cost vs weight vs performance gain vs durability.
    You're preaching to the choir. This is why I don't mind paying more for a well engineered light. At 240lbs I'm not worried about a slightly heavier than average battery that's only on the bike during night rides where I have to slow down anyway and even the more expensive lights are not expensive.
    '08 Hardrock HRXC
    '09 Epic Comp
    '14 Trance SX -

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,432
    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    @BuickGN ; First, you should work for DiNotte. You do a very convincing job of representing the product. DiNotte does make a very good product. One of their priorities has always been to create a product with very good thermal management and from what I've read both here and other places they do just that.

    I will however call you out on a couple statements you made that seem a little over the top. First you said you've ridden up a hill for 45 minutes with the lamp on high, "just because you could". Okay, but who would normally do that and for that matter we don't know what conditions existed on your climb. Maybe you had good head winds and low temps. Maybe you're a strong rider and can still push 5-10mph going uphill...whatever..we don't know and we weren't there. Secondly, you state on your 4 hour ride there wasn't a loss of output. That's a pretty bold statement unless you ride with an integrating sphere in your back pocket and were doing periodic measurements along the way. I'm not saying the lamp doesn't do a great job of managing heat. I'm just saying it's likely that at some point ( if using full power 100% of the time ) the lamp will likely drop in output to some degree even under favorable conditions. ( If the ( XML-3 ) lamp dropped in output 100 lumen over the course of a 3-4 hrs ride I doubt you would even be able to notice the difference )

    You also say that DiNotte lamps include a circuit for thermal management. I don't doubt that because most decent products do. There are different types of thermal management circuits though and I don't know what type DiNotte uses. If it uses a "big step down" when reaching a certain level of heat the step down would probably be noticeable. Then again some lamps incorporate a more gradual digital step down process. With those I don't think you would notice the drop because the process is intended to be very subtle.

    Doing test rides with lamps will sometimes bring very strange and conflicting results. I've done test rides with the cheap Solarstorms lamps and have had completely opposite results when used on the same trails under similar conditions. Sometimes I've had the lamp head stay relatively warm and on other rides ( used in the same manner ) I had the lamp heads get really hot. Sometimes it has you scratching your head wondering how you can get completely different results.

    Personally I don't think I could ever say any lamp I've used was able to maintain a certain level of output. On a ride it's just impossible to tell since I'm usually using two lamps anyway. Not to mention there are too many other variables to factor in when on a ride so it really would be assuming a lot to say whether or not a lamp was able to maintain a particular output on high but that's my take on it. True testing of thermal management properties are best done under laboratory conditions where the variables are kept to a minimum and the results are obtained by instruments more sensitive than the human eye.

    The MTBreview comparisons using the integrating sphere while interesting leave much to be desired. We don't know what conditions were set in place during the test ( was air flow used? ) or how well each lamp worked while using the sphere. I would be more interested in how a lamp performed over an hour. Three minutes, while better than nothing isn't going to show how well the lamp performs over the duration of a typical ride.

    Regardless, anyway you want to spin it, when it comes down to the usefulness of a lamp there is always going to be a good number of factors that determine whether something is a good buy ( or not ). Thermal loss is just one factor. While I would think it great if the thermal losses were zero, as long as the losses were minimal ( < 10% ) I could accept that as long as the lamp wasn't going into thermal step down every ten minutes. To me the more important issues are, "How well can I see with the lamp" ( beam pattern, choices of optics..etc. ) and what kind of user interface does it have. ( choice of mode options...# of modes ...programmable or not..etc. )

    With DiNotte your UI is set as it the choice of optic. If these fit your personal "Likes" then you have a great lamp at a good price. If they offered the lamps with a choice of emitter ( neutral or cool white ) I would probably own one.
    Thank you for calling me out in a more civil way and showing more intelligence and maturity than a 5yr old.

    I guess I was excited after getting this light because unlike many products that disappoint, this one surprised me by being considerably better than I thought it would be.

    As for riding uphill, I only wish I could maintain those kinds of speeds. I like to "test" everything. Like my brakes for example, I could not get them to fade with tons of very steep downhill so I finally rode just the rear brake continuously for over a mile while pedaling downhill. With the light, I wanted to see where it's limit was so I just left it on. The light head gets warm when going uphill because some sections I probably could have walked up faster but it never gets too hot to touch, not even close. It does generate a lot of heat very quickly when stationary but it seems to take a very small amount of airflow to cool it off quickly.

    I fully agree that the light could have dropped a small amount over time without it being noticeable but it certainly did not thermal out where I've seen others, including my current Niterider lose a very noticeable amount of output instantly. I really can't defend myself there, because if it's not enough to notice, I can't prove it didn't happen lol.

    I would like to reply to more when I get home, it's time the heck out of the office.
    '08 Hardrock HRXC
    '09 Epic Comp
    '14 Trance SX -

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,462
    Quote Originally Posted by BuickGN View Post
    I did not brake for half an hour.

    You seem to have a hard time with reading comprehension so why would I mention more things for you to take out of context? There was a stop, BUT, the light still had a good 3.5 hour runtime if not more. I'm not counting the stop into the runtime.

    My words were also that the lights never went into thermal protection yet you lied and tried to make it sound like I said they do not have thermal protection. I don't see you owning up to your "error". Do all of us a favor and read each post more than once before replying. You're so focused on trying to prove someone wrong that you don't take the time to comprehend what you're reading first. Go buy the light in question and get back with us. Your comments until then are irrelevant.
    My whole objective in response to your post was so the OP was not been led to believe Dinottes XML-3 will run for almost four hours on high with no step down!!!!! That's all!! And I stand by that!! If it will make you sleep better,,, I apologize for miss understanding your post about the thermal protection,,,,, my bad!! As for the length of your ride with breaks, without breaks,,,, whatever who cares about unimportant jousting. What's important,,, is your four hour claim which I still call BS on.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,432
    So you attempt to correct my experience with the runtime of this light with your guess of a product you've never seen in real life. Then you make up some crap about something I did not say about thermal protection. Where do you have the OP's best interest in mind? Yep, it will make me sleep better knowing you admit to having the reading comprehension of a child. Call BS all you want. Until you own the product in question, it means absolutely nothing.
    '08 Hardrock HRXC
    '09 Epic Comp
    '14 Trance SX -

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,462
    Quote Originally Posted by BuickGN View Post
    So you attempt to correct my experience with the runtime of this light with your guess of a product you've never seen in real life. Then you make up some crap about something I did not say about thermal protection. Where do you have the OP's best interest in mind? Yep, it will make me sleep better knowing you admit to having the reading comprehension of a child. Call BS all you want. Until you own the product in question, it means absolutely nothing.
    Wow!!!

  24. #24
    RAKC
    Reputation: tigris99's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    7,146
    Indebt, I agree with you, making false claims on a product isn't right. He may have had a great experience but the details are missing but emitter tech and such just isn't there to actually do what Buick says his light does. Getting angry and defensive isn't a great way to sort it out, dont need product in hand if you have decent in depth knowledge of how these systems work. Not saying he didn't get the run time but not on actual high mode. It stepped down either gradually or wasn't noticed when it did in order to achieve it.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,462
    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Indebt, I agree with you, making false claims on a product isn't right. He may have had a great experience but the details are missing but emitter tech and such just isn't there to actually do what Buick says his light does. Getting angry and defensive isn't a great way to sort it out, dont need product in hand if you have decent in depth knowledge of how these systems work. Not saying he didn't get the run time but not on actual high mode. It stepped down either gradually or wasn't noticed when it did in order to achieve it.
    Thanx tigris99,,, appreciate your support. Some people I guess just have a hair trigger. I could have worded my responses better as well. Cheers!!

  26. #26
    EAT MORE GRIME
    Reputation: 127.0.0.1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    4,547
    stuff doesn't add up in this thread whatsoever

    people need to smoke a bowl and visit battery university and candlepower forums and spend a few hours learnin...

    --------------------------------------------------

    bottom line, raw lumen numbers don't matter one whit really

    on trail 'enough light' is 'enough light', if you want to run max all the time carry spare batteries or spare packs

    what matters is, in general 700 lumens is damn good and extends runtimes on lights that can max at 1200 or more lumens

    battery voltage drop matters most for runtimes. you cannot control this well with high-power leds unless you use your own case and your own 18650's

    and dinotte blows. they gave me horrible support...treated me like a clown. so no more dinotte for me, I trashed mine and will buy everything else except dinotte.

    what do I use ? after years of spending high dollars on proprietary systems (niterider and unfortunately dinotte) only to have these fail and have to spend more dollars...I have moved to cheap chinese light heads and my own case and my own 18650s'


    for headlamp, zebralight h6xx series, single 18650 powered

    for handlebars, any of a number of cheapo chinese (yinding, united palight, shadow...) 8.4 volts and my own 4 cell case filled with protected ncr18650's

    -my battery packs don't fail
    -my chinese lamps haven't failed yet (the packs and chargers have all crapped out, the heads run fine, though rather hot sometimes)
    -zebralight is 89, the chinese lights are like 30 to 50 bucks

    -I can replace the whole lot (heads, batteries) with new ones for half the cost of one full niterider or dinotte kit.

  27. #27
    RAKC
    Reputation: tigris99's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    7,146
    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
    stuff doesn't add up in this thread whatsoever

    people need to smoke a bowl and visit battery university and candlepower forums and spend a few hours learnin...

    --------------------------------------------------

    bottom line, raw lumen numbers don't matter one whit really

    on trail 'enough light' is 'enough light', if you want to run max all the time carry spare batteries or spare packs

    what matters is, in general 700 lumens is damn good and extends runtimes on lights that can max at 1200 or more lumens

    battery voltage drop matters most for runtimes. you cannot control this well with high-power leds unless you use your own case and your own 18650's

    and dinotte blows. they gave me horrible support...treated me like a clown. so no more dinotte for me, I trashed mine and will buy everything else except dinotte.

    what do I use ? after years of spending high dollars on proprietary systems (niterider and unfortunately dinotte) only to have these fail and have to spend more dollars...I have moved to cheap chinese light heads and my own case and my own 18650s'


    for headlamp, zebralight h6xx series, single 18650 powered

    for handlebars, any of a number of cheapo chinese (yinding, united palight, shadow...) 8.4 volts and my own 4 cell case filled with protected ncr18650's

    -my battery packs don't fail
    -my chinese lamps haven't failed yet (the packs and chargers have all crapped out, the heads run fine, though rather hot sometimes)
    -zebralight is 89, the chinese lights are like 30 to 50 bucks

    -I can replace the whole lot (heads, batteries) with new ones for half the cost of one full niterider or dinotte kit.

    Problem being most dont want nor have the ability to mess with loose cells and all that. Battery packs with name brand cells shouldn't fail either anymore than laptop batteries.

    And voltage sag is something these light manufacturers seem to ignore. It can be controlled easily. Cells, protection circuit, gauge of wire used and so on can reduce the issue. As well as current draw from the pack. A lot of these lights dont pull that much that it gets a lot of voltage sag across the cells, its the protection circuit and small guage wires that ruin it.

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    1,810
    Add to that the standard connector we mostly use.

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    6,071
    Quote Originally Posted by BuickGN View Post
    Thank you for calling me out in a more civil way and showing more intelligence and maturity than a 5yr old.

    I guess I was excited after getting this light because unlike many products that disappoint, this one surprised me by being considerably better than I thought it would be.....


    ....I fully agree that the light could have dropped a small amount over time without it being noticeable but it certainly did not thermal out where I've seen others, including my current Niterider lose a very noticeable amount of output instantly. I really can't defend myself there, because if it's not enough to notice, I can't prove it didn't happen lol.....
    Sometimes when we're testing something new... things get missed. I've done it before as have others. The reason some of the folks jumped on you was because they knew something was wrong and thought maybe you were intending to misrepresent the product.

    Here's what I think happened: First, read the product manual for the DiNotte XML-3 and notice that it claims the runtime on high ( for the 4-cell battery ) is 2.5 hrs. Here's what I think happened; you inadvertently had the lamp on medium. On medium you would not have noticed ANY loss of light because at that setting the lamp would barely get warm. It would also run for over 5 hrs at that setting.

    Here's what you do; Do an in-house test. Charge the battery and test the lamp. Cycle through all three modes and make sure you have the brightest mode. Let the lamp run. Come back in ten minutes and feel the lamp. Is it very hot?
    ( Now if you have a lux meter I suggest measuring the output from 5 meters at the start. If you don't have a meter but have a smart phone you can download a lux meter app for free. )
    Check the output every couple minutes. If the lamp starts to get very hot it will probably step down at some point ( or if you want just use a fan to cool the lamp and continue the test. ). ( Eventually, somewhere near 2.5 hrs the indicator should turn red and the lamp go into super low mode. This is a fail-safe mode that is designed to get you out of the woods without losing your light source.)

    If after doing this you still get the same results as your first ride you need to contact DiNotte because it might be that the lamp is not functioning at the proper output.

    Hopefully this will resolve the issue. Sorry that things got a little heated but people ( all people ) sometimes will misunderstand intent.

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    110
    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    I generally leave my Gloworm on the bars. I figure it's so small and out of the way why remove it? Of course if you are a commuter it wouldn't be smart to leave it on the bike unattended.

    Otherwise aiming isn't a major issue with the Gloworm because it sits on a pivot mount. Takes 2 sec to aim. Of course the other issue with the Gloworm is that it uses a remote and if removing from the bike you have to remove the remote as well. That would be more an inconvenience than aiming the lamp. That's the main reason I leave mine on the bike because of the remote.
    Sorry cat man, I thought I replied to your post.

    Being that the X2 is so small, I was thinking about leaving the light on the bars, since I only use it for MTBing and not commuting. But, I would be afraid of it breaking in a crash or something.

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    6,071
    Quote Originally Posted by cr500taco View Post
    Sorry cat man, I thought I replied to your post.

    Being that the X2 is so small, I was thinking about leaving the light on the bars, since I only use it for MTBing and not commuting. But, I would be afraid of it breaking in a crash or something.
    Awe come on. Here it is you're riding a mountain bike, one of the most dangerous of sports and you're worried about breaking the lamp in a day crash? I'm more worried about breaking my neck than my lamp. The lamp I can replace, my neck is a little more irreplaceable.

    FWIW the lamp on the bars would be really hard to break. It's made out of aluminum, it's on a mount that moves...need I say more. When I take a hard fall the last thing I'm worried about while spitting dirt out of my mouth is whether or not the lamp is broke. Ninety-nine times out of a hundred the lamp won't even get dirty in a fall. Heck, if it broke in a fall the Gloworm people would likely replace it anyway.

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MaximusHQ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    675
    Quote Originally Posted by cr500taco View Post
    Sorry cat man, I thought I replied to your post.

    Being that the X2 is so small, I was thinking about leaving the light on the bars, since I only use it for MTBing and not commuting. But, I would be afraid of it breaking in a crash or something.
    I wouldn't worry about the X2 breaking very easy as it's pretty solid. Also when mounting to the bars it should sit below the level of the bars themselves so if the bike goes flipping over and over the light head won't get hit. Your brake levers might, but the light head likely won't. Easy way to make sure is mount it so that when you turn the bike upside down and rest it on the handlebars, the light head isn't touching the ground. Last crash I had on that particular bike the bar end broke and brake lever was just gouged a bit, but the light head didn't have a scratch even though the bike went cart wheeling end over end.

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    110
    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Awe come on. Here it is you're riding a mountain bike, one of tho poole most dangerous of sports and you're worried about breaking the lamp in a day crash? I'm more worried about breaking my neck than my lamp. The lamp I can replace, my neck is a little more irreplaceable.

    FWIW the lamp on the bars would be really hard to break. It's made out of aluminum, it's on a mount that moves...need I say more. When I take a hard fall the last thing I'm worried about while spitting dirt out of my mouth is whether or not the lamp is broke. Ninety-nine times out of a hundred the lamp won't even get dirty in a fall. Heck, if it broke in a fall the Gloworm people would likely replace it anyway.
    lol... good point cat man. you've convinced me.

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    110
    Quote Originally Posted by MaximusHQ View Post
    I wouldn't worry about the X2 breaking very easy as it's pretty solid. Also when mounting to the bars it should sit below the level of the bars themselves so if the bike goes flipping over and over the light head won't get hit. Your brake levers might, but the light head likely won't. Easy way to make sure is mount it so that when you turn the bike upside down and rest it on the handlebars, the light head isn't touching the ground. Last crash I had on that particular bike the bar end broke and brake lever was just gouged a bit, but the light head didn't have a scratch even though the bike went cart wheeling end over end.
    That's what I was wondering. I've seen some pictures of it mounted on bikes. in some it was mounted on top of the bars, which i didnt like and others it was mounted in front, which it looked pretty tucked in and secured. the head looks pretty robust and looks like it can take a beating.

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,432
    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Sometimes when we're testing something new... things get missed. I've done it before as have others. The reason some of the folks jumped on you was because they knew something was wrong and thought maybe you were intending to misrepresent the product.

    Here's what I think happened: First, read the product manual for the DiNotte XML-3 and notice that it claims the runtime on high ( for the 4-cell battery ) is 2.5 hrs. Here's what I think happened; you inadvertently had the lamp on medium. On medium you would not have noticed ANY loss of light because at that setting the lamp would barely get warm. It would also run for over 5 hrs at that setting.

    Here's what you do; Do an in-house test. Charge the battery and test the lamp. Cycle through all three modes and make sure you have the brightest mode. Let the lamp run. Come back in ten minutes and feel the lamp. Is it very hot? Check the output every couple minutes. If the lamp starts to get very hot it will probably step down at some point ( or if you want just use a fan to cool the lamp and continue the test. ). ( Eventually, somewhere near 2.5 hrs the indicator should turn red and the lamp go into super low mode. This is a fail-safe mode that is designed to get you out of the woods without losing your light source.)

    If after doing this you still get the same results as your first ride you need to contact DiNotte because it might be that the lamp is not functioning at the proper output.

    Hopefully this will resolve the issue. Sorry that things got a little heated but people ( all people ) sometimes will misunderstand intent.
    I'll take your advice and report back... One thing though, the indicator on these lamps is very clear, a steady indicator light is high, blinking is medium or low depending on the frequency so it's all but impossible to accidentally have it on medium while thinking it's on high.
    '08 Hardrock HRXC
    '09 Epic Comp
    '14 Trance SX -

  36. #36
    RAKC
    Reputation: tigris99's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    7,146
    Quote Originally Posted by BuickGN View Post
    I'll take your advice and report back... One thing though, the indicator on these lamps is very clear, a steady indicator light is high, blinking is medium or low depending on the frequency so it's all but impossible to accidentally have it on medium while thinking it's on high.
    Actually its not, not if it has thermal management instead of thermal step down. So instead of a huge jump to medium, it gradually backs the output down to bring the temperature back into safe range. I would expect the better companies to do this as it avoids the sudden drop in output like the cheap lights do. Nothing more than a series of coding in the firmware with the proper thermasistor. Since resistance increases across it as temps rise, the chipset can read it and just adjust output accordingly in small amounts. loosing say 50 lumens (again this is all hypothetical) at a time to bring temps down, you wouldnt even notice 2-300 drop gradually over time.

    Only other conclusion is that your actually runing a 6 cell pack where as the detail page for the light specs a 4cell at 2hrs but (iirc for this light, i know on their page its done for various lights) has a spec for and can be ordered with 6 cell pack instead.

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    6,071
    Quote Originally Posted by BuickGN View Post
    I'll take your advice and report back... One thing though, the indicator on these lamps is very clear, a steady indicator light is high, blinking is medium or low depending on the frequency so it's all but impossible to accidentally have it on medium while thinking it's on high.
    I agree. It is a mystery, that's for sure. Still DiNotte claims 2.5 hrs on high for the XML-3 and other brand name lamps that are close to the same output seem to be in the same ballpark.

    I'm not sure if DiNotte incorporates the gradual tapering thermal stepdown circuits that tigris alluded to. Sadly if you ask the question directly to DiNotte they aren't going to tell you. DiNotte has always been very secretive when it comes to disclosing any technical information on their lamps or batteries.

Similar Threads

  1. Niterider or Cateye, or ???
    By YamaDan in forum Lights and Night Riding
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 11-08-2013, 06:05 PM
  2. Help with a old NiteRider HID
    By the mayor in forum Lights DIY - Do It Yourself
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 01-04-2013, 12:12 PM
  3. NiteRider 15w HID to LED
    By PaintPeelinPbody in forum Lights DIY - Do It Yourself
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 10-09-2011, 08:10 AM
  4. NiteRider MiNewt.X2 ?
    By Call_me_Clyde in forum Lights and Night Riding
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-06-2011, 01:44 PM
  5. Niterider Sol 200 for $589 anyone??
    By wickedone31 in forum Lights and Night Riding
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 02-18-2011, 09:33 PM

Members who have read this thread: 1

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.