NiteRider Flight charging problem- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    NiteRider Flight charging problem

    I haven't used by light since last year. Just last week, I tried to re-charge the Li-Ion battery and noticed the small green light on the charger blinks from yellow to orange. Could my battery have gone bad or is something wrong with the charger? I let it charge all day and there is no juice on the battery at all.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    The same thing happened to me. I took it to Niterider-I live in san diego-and they did a warranty repair. The replaced the battery with a slightly different model and changed the connectors on my light. Works great now. You might want to call Niterider and see what they say.
    Z

  3. #3
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    Cool, Thanks. I'll give them a call.

  4. #4
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    Maybe you can let us know how it works out in the end? I have a MOAB and it's very similar to the Flight. I'd be curious as to what NR tells you (especially if there's anything that can be done from a preventative standpoint). I know that you really shouldn't let those lith ion batteries run flat in storage but I'm not sure if it makes a huge difference.

    A.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by neex
    Maybe you can let us know how it works out in the end? I have a MOAB and it's very similar to the Flight. I'd be curious as to what NR tells you (especially if there's anything that can be done from a preventative standpoint). I know that you really shouldn't let those lith ion batteries run flat in storage but I'm not sure if it makes a huge difference.

    A.
    Li-ion batteries will be ruined if the voltage drops too low even a single time. That's why all quality Li-ion packs have protection electronics built into the pack. The protection electronics prevent the Li-ion cells from ever going outside the acceptable voltage ranges. That voltage range is 4.3V to 2.5V for each cell. The electronics monitor each cell in the pack individually.

    So from an external user perspective, the pack appears to be dead when the electronics shut off output from the pack. The batteries themselves are not actually dead, they are just close to the lower limit. Most packs shutoff output when the cells reach 3v per cell.

    The problem that can occur however, stems from the fact that the protection electronics in the pack actually draw a small amount of power from the cells. So, if you end the season and store the pack with the batteries nearly fully discharged. The protection electronics can drain the batteries below the 2.5v lower limit over time. That can ruin the pack. Most good designs, have the protection electronics go into a shutdown mode so they draw an extremely tiny amount of power during storage. But, I've seen enough complaints like this about Niterider packs to suspect their design doesn't do a very good job of this. This would also be consistent with a lot of other design practices I've observed in Niterider lights.

    So the best way to store these packs is to make sure you store them at about half charge. That gives enough power in the battery cells to prevent complete discharge over the winter. You don't want to store them fully charged, because Li-ion cells degrade rapidly sitting at their upper voltage limit. They are happy right in the middle of their voltage range. It's also important to recharge the pack to at least 50% once a year if the lights aren't used over an extended period of time.

    Depending on how much power the electronics in the Niterider packs use, it's even possible that a 50% charge isn't enough to last through a winter storage. I wouldn't be able to tell that without dissecting a pack.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by neex
    Maybe you can let us know how it works out in the end? I have a MOAB and it's very similar to the Flight. I'd be curious as to what NR tells you (especially if there's anything that can be done from a preventative standpoint). I know that you really shouldn't let those lith ion batteries run flat in storage but I'm not sure if it makes a huge difference.

    A.
    Called them today. If the light is over a year old, then you'll have to pay $40.00 for Labor + parts to fix anything thats damaged + the price of the new battery.
    Not worth it IMO.

  7. #7
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    Had a similar problem and didn't want to send it in if I needed to buy a new battery. Turns out the cable shorted killing the battery. Received the new style battery and cables under warranty. The warranty on the connectors and cables is longer than the battery. If they short and kill the battery it's warranty from my understanding.

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