New light I am trying out - Securitying 7x- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    New light I am trying out - Securitying 7x

    not sure if this one has been discussed before. After my BT70 died I was looking for a replacement for my bar light to compliment the XT40 I use for my headlamp. I recently got a BT40 with the neutral white LED's which is nice but I was in a gambling mood last week so I thought I would try one of these off of ebay for $21.00 shipped

    Securitylng 4200LM Headlight 7x CREE XM L T6 LED Bicycle 3Mode Lamp Flashlight | eBay

    I ordered it on November 3rd and it showed up this morning at my work so only 9 days from China. Initial impressions are that it is a substantial hunk of aluminum, which is confirmed by weighing it on the scale at 191 grams. I don't have a battery to plug it into here so no impressions of the output but I will try it out tonight. Also will open it up tonight to see what is going on internally.

    New light I am trying out - Securitying 7x-2015-11-12-09.17.41.jpgNew light I am trying out - Securitying 7x-2015-11-12-09.17.jpgNew light I am trying out - Securitying 7x-2015-11-12-09.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New light I am trying out - Securitying 7x-2015-11-12-09.17.55.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Securitying is one of the cheapest #brand# that I know. Of course you get what you pay for.
    I can suspect the light is way underdriven (like most ot that kind) and it may use fake Cree XM-L leds. We would need good sharp closeup pictures od leds and the driver. If possible make a picture of leds without reflector so the whole led could be seen, not just the dome.
    Also 22AWG cable is to thin to be driven hard.

  3. #3
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    Whoa! Different listing, but look at this one.

    Looks like fake Cree's in this pic, doesn't it?:

    Oh wait a minute, the listing says they are "Cree XMLR8", so they must be a new emitter - just kidding.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  4. #4
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    Yes not Cree leds, but those are different than leds from the first post. Garry I can recall thread at BLF about multiled flashlights with those leds, but can't find it right now.

  5. #5
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    Did anyone notice it uses a "Y" cable for the battery cable????

  6. #6
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    Yes, 44 AWG in one thread and 44 in another

  7. #7
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    mtrain - can you take a close up picture of the LED's?


    ******

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Did anyone notice it uses a "Y" cable for the battery cable????
    Tigris,

    That's actually a shadow. It's a standard cable. I was planning on getting deeper into it last night but husbandly duties called. Hopefully this weekend. It is supposed to be a really wet weekend here in PNW, so perfect time to fool around with it. I will get some photos of the internals and a close up of the LED's

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtrain View Post
    That's actually a shadow. It's a standard cable.
    LOL! It did look like a 2nd cable, but I can see how it makes sense it's a shadow (so Tig don't worry, you weren't the only one fooled!).

    Quote Originally Posted by mtrain View Post
    I was planning on getting deeper into it last night but husbandly duties called.
    Oh! Well that's an acceptable reason.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  10. #10
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    Had a little time to play with it today. The led and reflectors are mounted in a solid aluminum piece with generous amounts of thermal paste between it and the housing. The beam is similar to my XT40 so more of a spot than flood. It has a hi-med-lo-flash-off cycle on its power settings. It pulled 1.55a on high, so I would say under-powered for 7 led's. There is another thread were a poster has modded this light to get around 3a out of it on high, so I might try my soldering skills and see if I can do that as well. I am still trying figure out how to get to the circuit board though...

    New light I am trying out - Securitying 7x-2015-11-14-10.23.jpgNew light I am trying out - Securitying 7x-2015-11-14-10.24.jpgNew light I am trying out - Securitying 7x-2015-11-14-10.jpg

  11. #11
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    Looking at it driver simply pulls out after you take the emitters out. The emitters and reflector can be separated I can see the plastic spacers under the reflector.



    From what it looks like they are just old XML emitters. So still cree just outdated emitter.

    Also, people go all nuts over "under powered emitters" but that's not even half the story. Everyone misses the fact that the head has to be able to dissipate the heat. Since most people are "lazy" and "I gotta have as much lumens as possible" they leave the light heads on high all the time. So rather than frying everything and possibly causing a fire, not to mention its cheaper, they run these at lower power. That's their fix instead of more costly driver designed to deal with the heat and handle the higher outputs.

  12. #12
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    Nope. Driver can get out from the back side. You just need to unscrew backplate where the switch resides.

    Leds are FAKE as I've predicted. They are LatticeBright. See the - The Fake-Cree LED Awareness Thread - The new "low" in Budget lights. | BudgetLightForum.com I would be more certain if you would make even closer and sharp picture. If the three bonding wires has square end on the phosphor layer then they are fake for shure.

    Looking forward to see how the driver looks like. What is diameter?

    This housing should stand quite more power. It uses 1.55A at what voltage? If 8V then it pulls 12W from the battery. Taking into account some looses, all leds are driven by 10-11W ie. 1.5W per led at best. One well cooled XM-L led could stand it all. I agree it should pull at least 3A from the battery pack.

  13. #13
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    Ah ok, I assumed from the look of it it was like 808 clones i have, driver comes out the front.

    And I knew I needed a new computer but damn, I looked at the pics 3 times and couldn't see the obvious difference that their the cree clones. Looked like XMLs on my end lol.

  14. #14
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    Here's some pics of the driver and a close up of an LED.

    New light I am trying out - Securitying 7x-_dsc2971.jpgNew light I am trying out - Securitying 7x-2015-11-14-20.08.jpgNew light I am trying out - Securitying 7x-2015-11-14-20.09.jpg

  15. #15
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    And there it, the details ledoman pointed out for the emitters, I CAN SEE IT NOW lol.

    Im a jerk like this. But I would make the seller refund my money and and inform them they are selling items under false pretenses.

    But that's me.

  16. #16
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    Yes LatticeBright leds for shure. What it's the tint of the light? Some can be pretty blueish.

    Sense resistor(s) is probably below the coil somewhere. If you plan to midify it I would add/change input and ouput capacitors to the higher values . Tantalum SMD ones might be bettr that electrolyte. Input cap is between V+ and V-. Output is black 47mF.
    Bent the coil and cap and make anoter picture so we will see what is below.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    Yes LatticeBright leds for shure. What it's the tint of the light? Some can be pretty blueish.

    Sense resistor(s) is probably below the coil somewhere. If you plan to midify it I would add/change input and ouput capacitors to the higher values . Tantalum SMD ones might be bettr that electrolyte. Input cap is between V+ and V-. Output is black 47mF.
    Bent the coil and cap and make anoter picture so we will see what is below.
    Here's a shot of under the cap and coil

    New light I am trying out - Securitying 7x-2015-11-15-12.23.jpg
    New light I am trying out - Securitying 7x-2015-11-15-12.28.jpg

  18. #18
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    Looks like r3 and r8 marked R250 are sense resistors. If in paralell (very likely) their resistance is 0.125Ohm.
    First take a picture of light output with manual camera settings so you can later compare. Next I would add one resistor with same R250 and see what happens, what current you get. If you don't have exactly R250 all around (R200, R300) would be good enough. After that you can ad second resistor, but I would not go beyond R200.

    Can you post link to the thread about modding this light?

  19. #19
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    Omg.....they call it 4200 lumens, and this thing with cree XML might have been hitting 1200. Those lattice bright things. Driver mod and xm-l2s that thing would get stupid bright lol. Wonder how much the lattice emitters can do before efficiency is shot and things get too hot.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    Looks like r3 and r8 marked R250 are sense resistors. If in paralell (very likely) their resistance is 0.125Ohm.
    First take a picture of light output with manual camera settings so you can later compare. Next I would add one resistor with same R250 and see what happens, what current you get. If you don't have exactly R250 all around (R200, R300) would be good enough. After that you can ad second resistor, but I would not go beyond R200.

    Can you post link to the thread about modding this light?
    This is the thread. The light in this thread is actually different internally. More like what this light should have been

    When adding the resistor, I am adding in parallel, correct?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Omg.....they call it 4200 lumens, and this thing with cree XML might have been hitting 1200. Those lattice bright things. Driver mod and xm-l2s that thing would get stupid bright lol. Wonder how much the lattice emitters can do before efficiency is shot and things get too hot.
    Yeah. On the bright side, I won't feel bad if I screw up trying to mod it

  22. #22
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    You might wish to watch my Reflowing video I posted in the BT40S page I'd you end up swapping over to real XM-L (2)'s: https://youtu.be/QLEz_mbLEWI

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtrain View Post
    This is the thread. The light in this thread is actually different internally. More like what this light should have been

    When adding the resistor, I am adding in parallel, correct?
    Sorry but I don't see any link in your response.

    Yes, resistors should be added in parallel. You can solder them on the top over existing ones.

  24. #24
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    Ladies, there are actually more lights with these "R8" LEDs. A big trap for buyers to get underpowered leds? Even my Power 7-up gets these, do we know what it is actually?

    New light I am trying out - Securitying 7x-14000lm-cree-xml-8x-r8-led-bicycle-light-bike-lamp-headlamp-headlamp-flashlight.jpg


    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Whoa! Different listing, but look at this one.

    Looks like fake Cree's in this pic, doesn't it?:

    Oh wait a minute, the listing says they are "Cree XMLR8", so they must be a new emitter - just kidding.

    -Garry

  25. #25
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    There is thread over at BLF -> Bestfire soup can, I gave in.. (edit: fake XP-L's, see from post #22 on) | BudgetLightForum.com
    Don't have time to read it right now. I can recall there was some talking about those leds....
    Post it here if you find out which leds they are.

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  27. #27
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    And maybe a cloned cree led here: XL-JiangXi Latticebright Corporation

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    Sorry but I don't see any link in your response.

    Yes, resistors should be added in parallel. You can solder them on the top over existing ones.
    Sorry I must have forgot to insert the link.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-...ew-872692.html

    Any recommendations to purchase resistors online?

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    You might wish to watch my Reflowing video I posted in the BT40S page I'd you end up swapping over to real XM-L (2)'s: https://youtu.be/QLEz_mbLEWI

    -Garry
    Thanks Garry. I have thought about that but I think doing 7 LED's for my first try might be a little audacious. I am going to try the resistor mod first and see how much that improves the light.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtrain View Post
    Sorry I must have forgot to insert the link.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-...ew-872692.html

    Any recommendations to purchase resistors online?
    Thanks. About resistors. If you are in the US you sould ask Tigris. I'm from EU.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtrain View Post
    Sorry I must have forgot to insert the link.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-...ew-872692.html

    Any recommendations to purchase resistors online?
    Any local shop that sells electric components should stock 'em ;-) Just be carefull since you are playing with fake cree leds and no one can estimate their rated power.

  32. #32
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    I usually get them from mouser.com. 1206 size smd resistors. Just type current sense resistor into their site, choose 1206 size and pick what value you want.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    I usually get them from mouser.com. 1206 size smd resistors. Just type current sense resistor into their site, choose 1206 size and pick what value you want.
    So like this one?

    LRC-LR1206LF-01-R250-F IRC / TT Electronics | Mouser

  34. #34
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    Yes, those should be fine. If you are going to mod some other lights get yourself small batch of different resistors from R100 - R500. If you can wait you can get them from Fasttech.com for cheap. Probably not 1% tolerance, but even 5% is good enough.

  35. #35
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    Last time I tried fasttech for them their selection was very limited (and didn't cover have the ratings). Have they added more?

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    Yes you are right. For the 1206 size only R100 is in stock right now. They had also R120 and R330. If there are more resistors in parallel then 0805 size can be used too.

  37. #37
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    You almost need a microscope to work with those 0805 sized resistors! The 1206 are bad enough.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  38. #38
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    I've decided I am going to get some resistors and try to bump up the output on this light. I figure it will be good practice if I ever need to do it on a quality light. Thanks for everyone's expertise and knowledge!

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtrain View Post
    I figure it will be good practice if I ever need to do it on a quality light.
    Great idea! Always good to get practice on a light that you don't care much about.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

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    Anyone still using this light? Any new mods?

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