New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018

    Again here is new thread for 2018 Wish you the best cheapo lights in 2018.

    This is the 2018 lights thread to get quick overview with some basic information so keep it clean and useful.

    Here is link to year 2017 thread http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-...a-1031635.html

    Also as last year I'm addition Chinese festival calendar, note long lasting Spring Festival ie. Chinese New Year:
    China Holidays & Festivals



    As a start here is "competition" to RACKs 4led Hyperion

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    https://www.ebay.com/itm/20000lm-4x-...t/263216274717

    Interesting, it looks it has remote switch.

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    With the most ridiculous modes ever!

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

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    Yes, and it can winks on both sides, but hey with some type of TIR lenses it shows some kind of progress in design and can have usable beam. Anyway things are changing as the years passes by.

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    20,000 Lumens! I must figure out this sorcery! BOUGHT!

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    My little custom pen light is probably brighter than that thing

    $11 for that, that actually kind of screams scam not gonna lie.

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    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.


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    Ok here's my submission. I was thinking a few days ago to start a thread of most ridiculous lumen output claims but didn't want to cobble up the board. Guess we don't really need that as we already know the false claims here.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/80000LUMENS...75.c100623.m-1

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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    Ok here's my submission. I was thinking a few days ago to start a thread of most ridiculous lumen output claims but didn't want to cobble up the board. Guess we don't really need that as we already know the false claims here.
    So here's a question for you guys.... How would you reach the common consumer who believes these lumen claims? How do you get them to understand the lumen game that's played by cheap overseas manufactures, and what the proper FL1 standard means?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Outbound View Post
    So here's a question for you guys.... How would you reach the common consumer who believes these lumen claims? How do you get them to understand the lumen game that's played by cheap overseas manufactures, and what the proper FL1 standard means?
    I don't think you can, hence the rampant lumen claims and grossly exaggerated specs. I was just thinking about this earlier, how can an honest person producing a true spec'd product (like yourself) compete with all these garbage lights? How do you get the word out . . . "Hey everybody, these claims are all garbage and I have a product that is actually way beyond these garbage lights with true specs!" I guess you try to post up on your website, in product descriptions, and in forums explaining false vs. real claims and hope that consumers run across the information and are persuaded.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    I don't think you can, hence the rampant lumen claims and grossly exaggerated specs. I was just thinking about this earlier, how can an honest person producing a true spec'd product (like yourself) compete with all these garbage lights? How do you get the word out . . . "Hey everybody, these claims are all garbage and I have a product that is actually way beyond these garbage lights with true specs!" I guess you try to post up on your website, in product descriptions, and in forums explaining false vs. real claims and hope that consumers run across the information and are persuaded.

    -Garry
    It isn't just in the bike light industry, it's also incredibly rampant in the automotive aftermarket. Between photoshopped pictures, outright lies, and a complete misunderstanding of lights, it's tough to get noticed.

    Your thoughts mirrored mine. Semi-unbiased educational information. Provide the facts, and let someone choose. Started putting up some blog posts, that are mostly copy-paste-edits from what I had posted earlier on here.

    https://www.outboundlighting.com/engineering/

    Definitely welcome topic suggestions!

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    I would guess that no matter how much information you put out there about a half would not research and just go by what the ad says. But better to have the info to research than not.

    I suppose that's why they'll continue to make these claims.

    One of the ads even said use w/ a 2 cell 18650! (2 by 18650) is how it read.

    MB

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    Yes, and it can winks on both sides, but hey with some type of TIR lenses it shows some kind of progress in design and can have usable beam. Anyway things are changing as the years passes by.

    Banggood's selling it too.https://www.banggood.com/XANES-DL02-...r_warehouse=CN

    4.2 volts, a reviewer claims 1600 lumens. First reviewer got light for two minutes, then smoke.
    Will that country ever run out of XML-T6's?

    Banggood has a good looking Xanes tail light on preorder. https://www.banggood.com/XANES-STL03...r_warehouse=CN
    Too good to be true but I bought a couple anyway.

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    Its not just that, also the price tag. All about the price tag. Its interesting the insane amount of those lights that get sold and people rarely end up using because it turns them off from night riding. Mainly cause they realize they cant actually see much. Make the assumption the good lights are the same and give up.

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    I've met up with folks on the trail and they'll ask how many lumens my lights are. They are incredulous when I give them a real number that is a quarter to a tenth of what they think theirs are and mine are notably brighter.

    It's "spreadsheet" buying. Add up all the numbers. Runtime, lumens, Ah on battery, etc. Then the light with the biggest numbers at the smallest price gets purchased.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    I've met up with folks on the trail and they'll ask how many lumens my lights are. They are incredulous when I give them a real number that is a quarter to a tenth of what they think theirs are and mine are notably brighter.

    It's "spreadsheet" buying. Add up all the numbers. Runtime, lumens, Ah on battery, etc. Then the light with the biggest numbers at the smallest price gets purchased.
    So guess I should advertise two things. "Real lumens" and "ebay lumens".

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    I've seen something recently called brighteyes that I'm somewhat interested in because I want more of a flood on the bar. I won't spend big bucks but this one doesn't sound like pie in the sky promises either.

    Currently using 2 nightrider 750's, a helmet and the bar. It's working nice but I suspect I'd prefer a wider beam (flood) from one lamp.
    bachman must spread some Reputation around before giving it to himself again. :madman:


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    Quote Originally Posted by Outbound View Post
    So guess I should advertise two things. "Real lumens" and "ebay lumens".
    Sad but true...

    I had one person actually argue with me about it. "No way that's 1800. Mines 6000 so yours has to be at least 8000" or something to that effect. He totally was believing the numbers in the ad on some Chinese website he bought it from.

    The other thing that I have a hard time understanding is the rush to the bottom for all the cheapo light buyers. So many have spent thousands on the bike and gear and then put the success of their night rides in a $20 POS light.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  17. #17
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    I'm looking for a half decent mountain bike light again.
    Some time ago I built a 7 xpg light that would put out more than 3000 lumens then I sold it...
    What's the best bang for the buck right now for a 3000-4000 lumen bike light?
    I mean real lumens, not ebay lumens. Lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Sad but true...

    I had one person actually argue with me about it. "No way that's 1800. Mines 6000 so yours has to be at least 8000" or something to that effect. He totally was believing the numbers in the ad on some Chinese website he bought it from.

    The other thing that I have a hard time understanding is the rush to the bottom for all the cheapo light buyers. So many have spent thousands on the bike and gear and then put the success of their night rides in a $20 POS light.
    It's perplexing to me as well. Will spend hundreds on pedals (I'm guilty), multiple thousands on the bike itself, hundreds on gear, but cheap out on a light, which arguably is what makes the ride even more enjoyable at night.

    It's also why we are going to be trying to do a lot of demo days, and events where people can try out the lights, and see how it is in person. Because it is incredibly hard to capture everything that the eye can see, especially in motion.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outbound View Post
    It's perplexing to me as well. Will spend hundreds on pedals (I'm guilty), multiple thousands on the bike itself, hundreds on gear, but cheap out on a light, which arguably is what makes the ride even more enjoyable at night.

    It's also why we are going to be trying to do a lot of demo days, and events where people can try out the lights, and see how it is in person. Because it is incredibly hard to capture everything that the eye can see, especially in motion.
    I think demo “nights” might be more better, no?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Outbound View Post
    ...Will spend hundreds on pedals (I'm guilty),
    Haha. Me too. Did I really need those Ti spindle Speedplay Frogs????
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

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    Quote Originally Posted by mbmb65 View Post
    I think demo “nights” might be more better, no?
    Ha. Yes.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergio_pt View Post
    I'm looking for a half decent mountain bike light again.
    Some time ago I built a 7 xpg light that would put out more than 3000 lumens then I sold it...
    What's the best bang for the buck right now for a 3000-4000 lumen bike light?
    I mean real lumens, not ebay lumens. Lol
    Lots of cheap Chinese lights that claim 3000-4000 (or more) lumens but know of 0 that actually do. Here's some links to lights you might want to look at above 3000 actual lumens.

    https://www.rakclighting.com/collect...bike-light-kit

    https://www.action-led-lights.com/co...ant=9586404421

    https://www.action-led-lights.com/co...-remote-switch

    https://www.action-led-lights.com/co...icshine-mj-908

    M-tiger probably the only one that could be used as a helmet light, both Magicshine lights are very floody. That's about as much as I know about these lights, no actual experience since they all produce more light than I could actually use.
    Mole

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    Quote Originally Posted by bachman1961 View Post
    I've seen something recently called brighteyes that I'm somewhat interested in because I want more of a flood on the bar. I won't spend big bucks but this one doesn't sound like pie in the sky promises either.

    Currently using 2 nightrider 750's, a helmet and the bar. It's working nice but I suspect I'd prefer a wider beam (flood) from one lamp.
    Not sure if this is the "Bright Eyes" light you are talking about but here's a link. It didn't seem to test out very well!
    Mole

    We Test Lights | Bright Eyes 1200 Lumen Test and Review

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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Not sure if this is the "Bright Eyes" light you are talking about but here's a link. It didn't seem to test out very well!
    Mole

    We Test Lights | Bright Eyes 1200 Lumen Test and Review
    Mole

    I just realized that site is ran by L&M. I am surprised that hasnt created some major conflicts but they keep test simple.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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    Quote Originally Posted by arc View Post
    Banggood's selling it too.https://www.banggood.com/XANES-DL02-...r_warehouse=CN

    4.2 volts, a reviewer claims 1600 lumens. First reviewer got light for two minutes, then smoke.

    Will that country ever run out of XML-T6's?
    Well, there is no description which voltage has been used when light smoked out. It might well be 8.4V pack.
    I see it as a nice candidate to change/mod the driver if someone (like Garry did for HD-016) is willing to play with. You can take it as learning course

    About XML-T6: they are not. There is huge supply of cheapo Chinese counterfeight of XM-L out there and you'll hardly get geniue Cree. Shurely not with cheapo lights. So you'll keep seeing them for quite some time in the future. So far I've discovered two different counterfeights. The last one has even smaller die than before. It can be distinguisged by looking from "distance".

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    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    Mole

    I just realized that site is ran by L&M. I am surprised that hasnt created some major conflicts but they keep test simple.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Even though it's run by L&M the data they have roughly matches stuff I've measured myself. They seem to be running an honest site there. It's tough to fake or manipulate that kind of data.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Not sure if this is the "Bright Eyes" light you are talking about but here's a link. It didn't seem to test out very well!
    Mole

    We Test Lights | Bright Eyes 1200 Lumen Test and Review
    Thanks. The one I looked at claims 1600 but I'm not too giddy on these numbers... b/c of the ways they are rated /claimed.
    I'm going to be more critical about the flood pattern as this one at 1600 has tons of good reviews (590 avg 4.5 stars) but some comments on the pattern give me pause. A bit more narrow beam than I first thought.
    I love the nightriders in that the power is internal, battery holds well for my ride times and the lighting is good but as my 2nd lamp, I want more flood.

    I think the best thing to do is look at how the NR test on some data and compare that same standard to other lights / brands tested, then I know what I'm expecting from what I already have experience with.

    If anyone finds a good trustworthy testing criteria on various lamps including NR, please advise ! THNX
    bachman must spread some Reputation around before giving it to himself again. :madman:


  28. #28
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    The only place to find that is right here on MTBR. MTBR Light Shootout.

    But even then the problem is that only about 50% at most of the reputable lights out there arent in the shootout.

    Some of the other sources are out of date and arent even active/updated anymore. Bikelightdatabase is one of them.

    1st thing is that Amazon reviews are to be taken with a grain of salt. Many that give good reviews of products arent picky. Just needs to work. Then you have people that will give bad reviews of products because they didnt read the details and compare products to go after what they required. All of it to save a buck. See it from cameras (even GoPro) to bike lights, automotive accessory lights, even tons of ppl that don't even check vehicle compatibility.

    As for how lights are tested.

    Only thing worth while is US based sphere confirmed lumen ratings. A few also have the chart that shows how the beam pattern intensity lays out.

    Anything with photos of beam shots you have to be cautious of. They may do a good job of portraying how the beam pattern looks if person doing it is experienced. The problem of some is that they will underexpose competitors/over expose their own.

    MTBR lights shoot out again is the most unbiased source I know of except right here in this sub forum. For bike lights you cannot beat the knowledge of the regulars here (Im a regular light geek, have been for years here but since Im also a vendor now I am restricted on help I can provide.)

    And its not just a ebay/Amazon chinese seller issue. There are constantly little "brands" popping up selling cheap chinese stuff at higher prices and doing the same things.

    Now to get specific to the light your looking at, known as a Magicshine 808 clone, the beam is going to have a strong hot spot. Not going to have the flood your looking for. NR750 is going to have more flood type pattern.

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  29. #29
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    Cool, thanks for the links!
    Maybe the best option is the magicshine 908.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bachman1961 View Post
    Thanks. The one I looked at claims 1600 but I'm not too giddy on these numbers... b/c of the ways they are rated /claimed.
    I'm going to be more critical about the flood pattern as this one at 1600 has tons of good reviews (590 avg 4.5 stars) but some comments on the pattern give me pause. A bit more narrow beam than I first thought.
    I love the nightriders in that the power is internal, battery holds well for my ride times and the lighting is good but as my 2nd lamp, I want more flood.
    I found the 1600 claimed lumen model. Best guess is it's similar to the linked model with a new lighthead case and an upgraded (slightly) emitter. Single emitter XM-L T6 (if that's true) that gets 5+ hours of runtime on high from a 6400ma battery (if that's true) is probably only 500-600 lumens at best. As RAKC mentioned this will have a very narrow beam but it comes with a optional elliptical diffuser lens which should widen the beam considerably. Doesn't sound like you trust these people any more than I do so If you want to try something like this you'd be much better off buying a original Magicshine 808 U2 + Wide angle lens (elliptical) from Action-LED-Lights or one of the new style MS900 lights. Honest 800 lumens and a nice wide beam. If you like self-contained lights and want a wider beam you should look at either a Ravemen PR900 or PR1200. I own the PR900 and while it's marketed as auto style beam I think it makes a great bar light for mtn. biking (the 1200 would be even better). Good quality lights, accurate lumen values, over 2 hr. runtime on high too.

    https://www.rakclighting.com/collect...led-bike-light

    https://www.rakclighting.com/collect...led-bike-light

    https://www.action-led-lights.com/co...icshine-mj-900

    I think the best thing to do is look at how the NR test on some data and compare that same standard to other lights / brands tested, then I know what I'm expecting from what I already have experience with.
    If anyone finds a good trustworthy testing criteria on various lamps including NR, please advise ! THNX
    Not sure if you noticed but the site I linked in my last post has 13 pages (12 pp) of lights tested same format as the Bright Eyes. Pretty much all the Niteriders are there.
    Mole

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    Wow, this went offtopic fast.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius9 View Post
    Wow, this went offtopic fast.
    Yep, it didn't make it two days.

    9k lumens and 9 leds

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-screen-shot-2018-01-13-1.39.12-pm.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod View Post
    Yep, it didn't make it two days.
    Faster than a thread over at BLF!

    -Garry

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod View Post
    Yep, it didn't make it two days.

    9k lumens and 9 leds

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quick math check:

    1.2A @ 8.4V = 10 watts of power on high mode

    9000 lumens / 10W = 900 lumens per watt.

    Worlds highest rated (but not in production) led chip is 300 lumens per watt. Most high end ones are around 160 in perfect conditions.

    XML2 datasheet says maximum lumens = 1000, and at 10W of power.

    10 watts divided by 9 LEDs = 1.1 watts per XML2

    XML2 at maximum efficacy (highest bin, highest grade quality chip, running cold) is 117 lm/W.

    (XLamp XM-L2 LEDs | Cree Components)

    That means based on the electrical specs given by KD, the maximum actual lumens if it was truly using the highest grade XML2s (which cost a couple bucks each) then it'd be around 1,170 lumens. In real world, might be counterfeit XML2's that are putting out about 50-60% of the real XML2 chip lumens. XML2's are not dirt cheap, but the counterfeits are. So my educated guess is that it's really around 750 lumens.

    Just gave me an idea for a engineering blog post.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outbound View Post
    Quick math check:

    1.2A @ 8.4V = 10 watts of power on high mode

    9000 lumens / 10W = 900 lumens per watt.

    Worlds highest rated (but not in production) led chip is 300 lumens per watt. Most high end ones are around 160 in perfect conditions.

    XML2 datasheet says maximum lumens = 1000, and at 10W of power.

    10 watts divided by 9 LEDs = 1.1 watts per XML2

    XML2 at maximum efficacy (highest bin, highest grade quality chip, running cold) is 117 lm/W.

    (XLamp XM-L2 LEDs | Cree Components)

    That means based on the electrical specs given by KD, the maximum actual lumens if it was truly using the highest grade XML2s (which cost a couple bucks each) then it'd be around 1,170 lumens. In real world, might be counterfeit XML2's that are putting out about 50-60% of the real XML2 chip lumens. XML2's are not dirt cheap, but the counterfeits are. So my educated guess is that it's really around 750 lumens.

    Just gave me an idea for a engineering blog post.
    Glad I could help. We know the claimed lumens wasn't close to realistic.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

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    Well, we all know 9K lumens are "theorethical", but light of that size could easily run it at 4000-5000Lm. Usability of such big light is another story so put this aside.

    Running it at 10W input is pitty. It should be runt at 30-40W at least.

    Right now I'm rebuilding 6 cell pack for for a cyclist whose pack almost died. He is using cheapo 11 led light like THIS.
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    Of course leds are not Cree and 18650 cells are generic and low capacity noname. All leds are connected in series. At full power it is pulling about 16W from battery pack. It is very dependable on voltage it gets from battery pack as the driver has to boost voltage up to 25V (measured). Driver is very simple LEDA based (it has sense resistors) with coil to boost voltage and beefier mosfet to maintain all those leds. No wonder coil gets hot very quickly and the power is keept on the low side. Anyway, user is happy with it cause he doesn't know any better (so far).

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    hi guys , so i'm looking at getting a Light for night riding guy guys keep raving about the bt40s which is cool but what about the yinding little double led light seem to be more expensive is it more suited to a helmet light ? or should i just get two bt40s ? i have about 30 odd 18650s from dead makita battery's (cells are fine) so just going to run a 4x18650 waterproof box, was think bt40s on bars yinding on helmet ? is this the best budget set up ?

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    If you really want to deal with false lumen claims, it will take government intervention. Start with legal service on Amazon and ebay and notify them of seriously false and fraudulent claims. Then when they don't react, follow up with a criminal complaint. But who wants to bother with that?

    A reputable light manufacturer would probably do best by advertising "REAL Lumens" and backing it up with test results from an independent lab.

    Scott Novak
    Last edited by Scott Novak; 02-04-2018 at 03:54 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by turner_nz View Post
    hi guys , so i'm looking at getting a Light for night riding guy guys keep raving about the bt40s which is cool but what about the yinding little double led light seem to be more expensive is it more suited to a helmet light ? or should i just get two bt40s ? i have about 30 odd 18650s from dead makita battery's (cells are fine) so just going to run a 4x18650 waterproof box, was think bt40s on bars yinding on helmet ? is this the best budget set up ?
    Yes, this combination is still one of the best budget combination out there. The only thing you need to care is overheating of Yinding. Using some fins on the mount (Vancbiker) or at least use alu mount from DX would help. Keep it at lower modes when not moving.

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    Perhaps you are missing some of the points why consumers buy certain lights over spending much more for others.

    I just picked up a small set of usb rechargeable led lights for my new bike. I looked at some in my LBS and was totally put off by the really high price point. So I did turn to Amazon where I found a cheap Chinese knockoff unit that will fit my needs.

    I don't really care about the lumins. I got them for two reasons.

    1. in my town it is illegal to ride a bike on the road without a light installed on it. The town bylaw doesn't say how bright it has to be, just that it needs to be there and working. It's a law that I know is hardly ever enforced, but even having a non-working light might be enough if you get a cop who has a bug up his butt to give you a warning rather than the fine.

    2. I have given this a try and having a small flashing light in the daytime on a bike will get you noticed. It doesn't need to be the absolutely brightest light, just enough to catch a drivers attention.

    Now I know full well that these are nowhere near bright enough to use as a nighttime riding light. They might be OK if caught riding near to dusk in the spring/fall time as it gets dark pretty early up here in the north. I am sure if I wanted to ride in the pitch black then a brighter better-designed light would be something that you'd want.

  41. #41
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    No, we are not missing it. This is primarly MTB forum and as such we take care more for reliable and bright enough lights.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    Again here is new thread for 2018 Wish you the best cheapo lights in 2018.

    This is the 2018 lights thread to get quick overview with some basic information so keep it clean and useful.

    Here is link to year 2017 thread http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-...a-1031635.html

    Also as last year I'm addition Chinese festival calendar, note long lasting Spring Festival ie. Chinese New Year:
    China Holidays & Festivals



    As a start here is "competition" to RACKs 4led Hyperion

    Name:  s-l500.jpg
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    https://www.ebay.com/itm/20000lm-4x-...t/263216274717

    Interesting, it looks it has remote switch.
    Anyone tried this light? Looks like a nice successor to my SS X3 on the ML8!

    EDIT: F it, 8,80€? Why the hell not, if it's trash I can use it on my winter beater instead.

  43. #43
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    Be aware it very likely needs 4.2V battery pack, not standard 8.4V one.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    Be aware it very likely needs 4.2V battery pack, not standard 8.4V one.
    I have that 4x18650 pack with USB connection, no idea if it's 8.4 or 4.2V though.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadkill401 View Post
    ...in my town it is illegal to ride a bike on the road without a light installed on it...
    You should be more concerned that riding without a headlight is RUDE to other cyclists. At least 3 or 4 times a year I nearly hit some idiot Ninja riding without a headlight on the road or bike path.

    Quote Originally Posted by roadkill401 View Post
    ...I am sure if I wanted to ride in the pitch black then a brighter better-designed light would be something that you'd want...
    Street riding requires a brighter light than off road riding in pitch black, because of the glare from oncoming traffic.

    Scott Novak

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    Be aware it very likely needs 4.2V battery pack, not standard 8.4V one.
    I really wonder if that light is using a linear LED driver. That would explain a likely failure with an 8.4 input voltage.

    I would think that most switching LED drivers could easily handle an 8.4V input. I don't think that I've seen a switching LED driver IC that had a maximum input voltage rated less than 20 volts.

    Scott Novak

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaverickRider View Post
    I have that 4x18650 pack with USB connection, no idea if it's 8.4 or 4.2V though.
    That's a 8.4v box.

    -Garry

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    That's a 8.4v box.

    -Garry
    inb4 this happening: I plug it in, go ride and then the light goes KABOOM while driving out of the street, leaving me in darkness.

  49. #49
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    I fried one 4.2v light by accident. It simply went "poof" either as soon as I plugged it to the battery or as soon as I turned it on - no magic smoke, no fire, no kaboom - just no function at all.

    -Garry

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    Garry,

    Do you know what type of regulator it had?

    There is another problem we have. Using the same connector for different voltages is asking for trouble.

    Scott Novak

  51. #51
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    Im not sure. It was the Thorefire BL01 I reviewed here: http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-...w-1008074.html . Pics of driver toward the end. Seems I didn't quite remember correctly how I blew driver, but still connecting an 8.4v source would likely blow out a 4.2v driver fairly quick.

    -Garry

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    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    Yes, this combination is still one of the best budget combination out there. The only thing you need to care is overheating of Yinding. Using some fins on the mount (Vancbiker) or at least use alu mount from DX would help. Keep it at lower modes when not moving.
    sweet thank mate, i've already ordered that DX mount from reading your guys posts but unsure how to buy the other mount as in in New Zealand, but i bought at cheap heat sink off aliexpress i'm just going to thermal paste it on top see how that goes. also with the 4x18650 battery boxes they will be fine with the bt40s and Yinding light ? it says 8.4v but the light says 7.4v? not to techno savvy got this box https://www.ebay.com/itm/263387332998
    thanks fellas

  53. #53
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    Those boxes are 8.4V (7.4V is just nominal/average). Make shure cells doesn't bump freely inside. There is a review of it. See post#2 of http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-...nd-997165.html.

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    sweet thanks mate, also do you guys de dome your lights or not bother?

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    Gary,

    The 7135 is indeed a linear regulator with a 6V maximum input rating. Its no surprise that it burned out with a fresh 8.4V battery. It's not likely that the voltage killed it per se. It just overheated because of the extra power dissipation caused by the higher input voltage.

    This also suggests that this is an inefficient regulator wasting precious battery energy and a bad design choice.

    To get longer run time it would probably be cheaper to replace the regulator with a switching regulator and operate it from an 8.4V source.


    Scott Novak

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Novak View Post
    Gary,

    The 7135 is indeed a linear regulator with a 6V maximum input rating. Its no surprise that it burned out with a fresh 8.4V battery. It's not likely that the voltage killed it per se. It just overheated because of the extra power dissipation caused by the higher input voltage.

    This also suggests that this is an inefficient regulator wasting precious battery energy and a bad design choice.

    To get longer run time it would probably be cheaper to replace the regulator with a switching regulator and operate it from an 8.4V source.


    Scott Novak
    7135s are used in flashlights, they cheap and work for 4.2V systems for torches quite well. Thats basically all that was, a flashlight with external battery pack. Like most components like 7135, you exceed their capacity they overheat and short/burn out.

    8.4V systems are rather well known and understood these days around here. Most common is PWM. Switching as you put it. Most lights, even the cheap ones usually use PWM. More expensive the light the more efficient among other points (like quality etc). You will see some that use linear a regulation but its inefficient and generates insane heat compared to PWM.

    Gain runtime is dependant on wattage requirements. Both at what the light is designed to emit and efficiency of the system. Everything from the contacts in the battery pack, gauge of wire connecting battery to the light finally into the requirements of the Driver and LED chosen.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.


  57. #57
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    There is a good reason that the 8.4V systems are popular these days.

    For efficiency you need a power MOSFET with a very low on resistance to pass the current with low power losses. You need a sufficiently high gate voltage to drive the MOSFET into it's low on resistance range, and that's very difficult to do with a 4.2 VDC system that drops as low as 2.5 VDC during normal operation.

    With an 8.4 VDC system, the minimum voltage before the batteries go into low voltage shutdown is 5.0 VDC, which is sufficient to drive many power MOSFETs to their lowest on resistance, and therefore their most efficient operating range.

    At this time it's just not very practical to make an efficient 4.2 VDC LED driver. If you see a 4.2 VDC Li-Ion light system, automatically assume that it's inefficient until proven otherwise.

    These days an efficient LED driver is more a matter of good design than parts cost. It's not like the 90's when much of the DC-DC converter was built from discrete parts. Nowadays the switching power MOSFETs are often built right into the driver IC (Integrated Circuit).

    Scott Novak

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius9 View Post
    Wow, this went offtopic fast.
    The $11 bike light

    or cheap-o lights in general ?
    bachman must spread some Reputation around before giving it to himself again. :madman:


  59. #59
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    Some of us have seen for ourselves that 4.2v setups can't even deliver a reasonable amount of power due to losses in cables, connections, etc. . . so in my book they're not even worth messing with due to that alone. (My test sample used a MOSFET, and I even tried replacing it with another high quality MOSFET.)

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaverickRider View Post
    Anyone tried this light? Looks like a nice successor to my SS X3 on the ML8!

    EDIT: F it, 8,80€? Why the hell not, if it's trash I can use it on my winter beater instead.
    And shipped. That remote looks pretty epic though, pop a wheelie, turn on your light and off you go in the darkness!

    I wonder if I can reuse my SolarStorm X3 bracket my dad made a few years ago:

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Novak View Post
    You should be more concerned that riding without a headlight is RUDE to other cyclists. At least 3 or 4 times a year I nearly hit some idiot Ninja riding without a headlight on the road or bike path.
    I find it more worrisome about the ninja idiots who have never heard of the concept of a bell while riding at full tilt down a multi-directional path.

    I would rather have someone with at least some form of light with which to see them, than without anything simply because they cannot afford it. It is all fine to say that we are all into MTBR here so we all should be able to afford a good quality light. Just like we all should wear a proper helmet and follow etiquette on the trails.

  62. #62
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    Not sure if this is a new one (probably not). The cable finally broke on my cheap Chinese eBay light from ~2011, which has served me surprisingly well for those 7 years including my 15,000 mile ride from Portland, OR to Ushuaia, Argentina. I just ordered one of these and wondering if anyone can comment on beam pattern and/or build quality. Appears to be a clone of Gemini Duo.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/322510065712


  63. #63
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    Looks like what we call the "KD2" listed by Kaidomain. See the review thread on it here.

    Probably the same poor heatsinking, not driven too hard, and a good chance the emitters are fakes (though we never knew of fake emitters in KD's version). Beam pattern is adjustable by swapping readily available cheap optics.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Looks like what we call the "KD2" listed by Kaidomain. See the review thread on it here.

    Probably the same poor heatsinking, not driven too hard, and a good chance the emitters are fakes (though we never knew of fake emitters in KD's version). Beam pattern is adjustable by swapping readily available cheap optics.

    -Garry
    Thanks for the info Garry, very helpful! I may order a wide angle lens for one side as that seems to be a good compromise. This has got to be one of the most attractive cheap Chinese lights on eBay currently as it's small and unobtrusive and should output plenty of light without draining the batteries too fast.

  65. #65
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    Man I ordered that ebay light when this topic popped up last month. Still isn't here.

  66. #66
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    I have one of these Ebay lights since they are small and you can get the light head for cheap. I have yet to test it out on a long ride but I opened it up and improved the thermal management using some copper foil and some thermally conductive epoxy (JB Weld works). I essentially cut a piece of Cu foil roughly the size of the heat spreaded on the back of the LED PCB but left some some Cu fingers hanging off the side. I glued the foil to the heat spreader and then when it dried glued the fingers to the inside of the casing. I finished if off by putting a bead of silicone around the rear of the case before reinserting the back panel and also put a big glob of silicone on the bottom underneath the mount where the wire exits. I lastly mounted the light head to a Niterider Lumina handlebar mount. Heat is definitely transferred to the housing well and the light is nice and low profile on the handlebars. I just ordered another to use as a helmet light for mountain biking. The LEDs are cool white but mine has a reasonably smooth beam pattern and decent throw. The medium setting is bright enough for most of my road biking needs particularly because I am coming off a 6 year old LED light.

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by merzperson View Post
    Not sure if this is a new one (probably not). The cable finally broke on my cheap Chinese eBay light from ~2011, which has served me surprisingly well for those 7 years including my 15,000 mile ride from Portland, OR to Ushuaia, Argentina. I just ordered one of these and wondering if anyone can comment on beam pattern and/or build quality. Appears to be a clone of Gemini Duo.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/322510065712

    Like Garry said we were tested it getting it from Kaidomain. KD are proven to have geniue leds. If you are going to get geniue 2 XM-L2 U2-1A LEDs it would be fine, but Cool White tint. From KD you can get NW version. Shurely I would advise you to improve heat transfer as is described in my review - post #261.
    Beam pattern is quite nice evenly spreaded at about 15° and good for helmet use. I won't advise to use wider lens unless it is meant to be used as a bar light.

    Report it back what user inteface you have got with it.

  68. #68
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    Probably my favourite cheap light. Unfortunately waterproofing is non existent on the two I have (gets in around the front optics).

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by znomit View Post
    Probably my favourite cheap light. Unfortunately waterproofing is non existent on the two I have (gets in around the front optics).
    Maybe the lack of waterproofing is intentional since it overheats, now it's liquid cooled 🤣

  70. #70
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    With as many thermal problems as some of these headlights are having, I think you'd be better off swapping the white LEDs with red ones, reducing the LED current for about 100 lumens output total, replacing the lenses with wider dispersion ones, and mounting the light on the rear for a taillight.

    I'm actually considering doing this. One of these lights would fit nicely under the rear rack.

    Scott Novak

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    Again here is new thread for 2018 Wish you the best cheapo lights in 2018.

    This is the 2018 lights thread to get quick overview with some basic information so keep it clean and useful.

    Here is link to year 2017 thread http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-...a-1031635.html

    Also as last year I'm addition Chinese festival calendar, note long lasting Spring Festival ie. Chinese New Year:
    China Holidays & Festivals



    As a start here is "competition" to RACKs 4led Hyperion

    Name:  s-l500.jpg
Views: 12728
Size:  38.0 KB
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/20000lm-4x-...t/263216274717

    Interesting, it looks it has remote switch.
    So I finally just got this in. Took 4 weeks to ship.

    Has the remote, but no way to mount it. Looks like maybe have to find a zip tie or something, but the spacing is super thin.

    I went and found a battery to test with. Turned it on, pretty bright as expected, started falling off quickly. Wire started getting WAY too hot, smelled like burning and now it's dead. It lasted literally 20-30 seconds.

    Now just the green light turns on and nothing else. One emitter was barely turned on out of 4, but now nothing but the status light turns on.

    Will take it apart here in a bit, but already just the thin gauge wire was far too small to safely handle the current.

    Didn't even last long enough to get a beam shot picture, but it was the typical 5 degree wide spot with almost zero falloff. The body looks neat though, I'll give it that.

    This is now the second cheap light that has arrived to me, and dead within 30 seconds.

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-img_4499.jpg

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-img_4502.jpg

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-img_4500.jpg

    All in all, fun use of $10 I suppose. Hate to be the guy who looks forward to night riding for cheap with this and it dies immediately. Now gotta put off night riding for another 4 weeks.

  72. #72
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    You all think this one might be better. Looks interesting.

    https://www.banggood.com/XANES-2700L...r_warehouse=CN

  73. #73
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    Got the same light few days ago. Should be powered by 4.2V pack. Outbound what was your power source?

    Currenty mine sits dissassembled on my desk waiting to take some pictures. Driver consist of some switching transistors and bunch of resistors driven by 8 pin noname IC.

  74. #74
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    Outbound and ledoman,

    What is the outer case made from. It kinda looks like plastic in the photos.

    Scott Novak

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    Got the same light few days ago. Should be powered by 4.2V pack. Outbound what was your power source?

    Currenty mine sits dissassembled on my desk waiting to take some pictures. Driver consist of some switching transistors and bunch of resistors driven by 8 pin noname IC.
    That could be the reason why. I was using my 7.4V packs. Certainly no instructions or anything included with the thing to say what kind of power source it needed.

    Scott, it is pretty thick plastic, then really low grade aluminum heat sink. There is about a half square inch of contact, no thermal paste.

  76. #76
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    Yes, but it was already discussed in post #11 it's 4.2V and description on BG page say so, too. Well good candidate to play with another driver on top of this.

    For the price not much to expect, no thermal paste is standard for it. Plastic outer shell, but quite big finned alu chunk under that. Small contact area for leds board, true. There are other issue to. Mount for example is very weak screwed into plastic shell.

    What I see good is more and more TIR lenses are used resulting in better beam pofiles.

  77. #77
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    Outbound,

    No real standardization of DC power connectors and voltages is one of the issues with the electronic industry. That kind of voltage mismatch shouldn't occur.

    That light manufacturer DESERVES to be providing free replacements for failed lights because they didn't identify the voltage input requirements on the light itself. Seriously, how much does it cost to slap on a sticker with that information? SMH!

    With the plastic case covering the heat sink it makes me wonder just how hot they are running that thing. I suspect that the plastic shell is used to prevent burns to the skin. But maybe I'm giving them too much credit.

    It will be interesting to see what the driver efficiency is, and if they are using an analog LED driver like another 4.2V light that failed on someone here.

    Scott Novak

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Novak View Post
    Outbound,

    No real standardization of DC power connectors and voltages is one of the issues with the electronic industry. That kind of voltage mismatch shouldn't occur.

    That light manufacturer DESERVES to be providing free replacements for failed lights because they didn't identify the voltage input requirements on the light itself. Seriously, how much does it cost to slap on a sticker with that information? SMH!

    With the plastic case covering the heat sink it makes me wonder just how hot they are running that thing. I suspect that the plastic shell is used to prevent burns to the skin. But maybe I'm giving them too much credit.

    It will be interesting to see what the driver efficiency is, and if they are using an analog LED driver like another 4.2V light that failed on someone here.

    Scott Novak
    Indeed, maybe it was mentioned on the ebay listing, and obviously was discussed here. But I didn't even think of that potentially being an issue, or had long forgotten about it, haha.

    It's part of why I am not selling the light heads alone for my stuff on the website. I want to verify with customers first that they understand I cannot be held liable that they are using an incorrect power source. Either underpowering it or overpowering. There are protection circuits in place, but still we know how the general public is.... hell I just nuked this light without even thinking about it!

    My guess on the plastic is it's a styling choice. It doesn't line up at all with fins on the heat sink, and the spacing is so tight that there really isn't a lot of airflow being allowed. With such a large thermal mass, no thermal paste, and the board hardly touching the case, burns shouldn't be a concern at all.

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    Like Garry said we were tested it getting it from Kaidomain. KD are proven to have geniue leds. If you are going to get geniue 2 XM-L2 U2-1A LEDs it would be fine, but Cool White tint. From KD you can get NW version. Shurely I would advise you to improve heat transfer as is described in my review - post #261.
    Beam pattern is quite nice evenly spreaded at about 15° and good for helmet use. I won't advise to use wider lens unless it is meant to be used as a bar light.

    Report it back what user inteface you have got with it.
    Just got the little Duo clone in the mail. Unfortunately it doesn't appear to work with my trusty old battery. When I make the connection the button LED very briefly lights green then blinks red. Has anyone encountered this? Insufficient voltage maybe? The Kaidomain light is listed as 8.4V, don't have a voltmeter to measure and not sure what my battery outputs. Anyone have battery pack recommendations?

    UPDATE:
    I tried connecting my girlfriend's almost identical but much newer battery and it powered on fine. The center brightness between this and my old 1xLED eBay light are similar, but the beam pattern is WAY better (no more hotspot) and it overall throws significantly more light. The color of the light is also much closer to white. The modes are low-med-hi with smooth transitions and a couple second hold gives a relatively slow blinking mode. It will definitely need some silicone glue where the power cable exits the case for strength and waterproofing, but at least the lenses have o-rings. Even for cheap-o Chinese standards the power cable is pretty pathetic, the only thing holding it on are the sketchily soldered leads.
    Last edited by merzperson; 02-16-2018 at 07:58 PM.

  80. #80
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    I've always wanted an 8000LM light.....

    Quote Originally Posted by merzperson View Post
    Appears to be a clone of Gemini Duo.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/322510065712


  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by merzperson View Post
    .... The modes are low-med-hi with smooth transitions and a couple second hold gives a relatively slow blinking mode. .....
    To compare with KD2 light, does yours has off in the mode cycle? Also KD2 has programable modes so you can set any mode out of 10 brightness levels. At any mode hold button for 5-8 seconds so orange status led starts blinking. Then you can choose any of 10 levels for that mode. Long press saves it in memory.

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaverickRider View Post
    And shipped. That remote looks pretty epic though, pop a wheelie, turn on your light and off you go in the darkness!

    I wonder if I can reuse my SolarStorm X3 bracket my dad made a few years ago:
    Just got it, damn this thing has a weird UI, on, left on, right on, seizure inducing strobe, off.

    Didn't catch fire or burn out on my 7.4v pack however, so there's that.

  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outbound View Post
    There are protection circuits in place, but still we know how the general public is...
    If you have adequate protection circuits in place don't worry about it. Just make sure that you have adequate labeling on your light and proper documentation that is straight to the point and easy to read.

    Quote Originally Posted by Outbound View Post
    ...hell I just nuked this light without even thinking about it!
    The light failed because it had no overvoltage protection circuit, nor any reasonable labeling of the power requirements.

    Quote Originally Posted by Outbound View Post
    I want to verify with customers first that they understand I cannot be held liable that they are using an incorrect power source.
    Your liability ends with making sure that your bike light design does not catch on fire, emit toxic gasses, cause an electrocution hazard, get so hot that it can burn someone, does not have any sharp edges that could cut someone, and making sure that it meets it's advertised specifications.

    A safety agency certification doesn't eliminate your liability, but it does show that you were not negligent and that you made a good faith effort to make sure that your product is safe.

    You're kinda stuck between a rock and a hard place when it comes to connectors. There aren't much in the way of voltage standards for small coaxial power plugs.

    If you want complete control you need to either use a permanently connected internal battery, a permanently connected external battery pack, or use a proprietary connector. I doubt that you would consider any of those options to be viable and I doubt that your customers would be pleased either.

    With the DC5521 connector you can expect that your light could be connected to voltages ranging from 3VDC to 24VDC or maybe even more.

    The light doesn't need to operate outside of it's specified range. Just make sure that the light is protected against reverse voltage and input voltage out of the light's specified operating range. It appears that you already have that protection in your light design.

    I would hope that you have the voltage and current requirements molded into the casting of your light, or at the very least have the requirements on a label on the side of the light. A label wrapped like a flag around the end of the cable near the power connector would also be advisable.

    You have a far greater liability selling Li-Ion batteries than you do selling a bike light.

    Scott Novak

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    To compare with KD2 light, does yours has off in the mode cycle? Also KD2 has programable modes so you can set any mode out of 10 brightness levels. At any mode hold button for 5-8 seconds so orange status led starts blinking. Then you can choose any of 10 levels for that mode. Long press saves it in memory.
    It goes off-low-med-hi-off, and long press doesn't appear to do anything beyond the strobe mode. It's definitely the best case I've yet seen in cheap lights, very low profile and lightweight and not hideously ugly with sharp corners to catch on things.
    Last edited by merzperson; 02-17-2018 at 02:55 PM.

  85. #85
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    This is not a bike light par se but it could be if you are interested in some tinkering. It looks it has a LED inside, some COB arrays, USB jack at the back side (so 12V to 5V step down)...
    US$15 over at BG
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-467fb353-1303-4b74-ad11-cf6730b0666d.jpeg

  86. #86
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    Anyone know what's up with the green glow in the dark O-Rings that they use to seal some of these Chinese lights?

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-1200l-exploded.jpg

    Is there any reason for using green O-rings other than for appearance?

    Scott Novak

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Novak View Post
    Is there any reason for using green O-rings other than for appearance?
    It's an added feature for flashlights so you can find them in the dark. Doesn't make a lot of sense for bike lights, though when I was DIYing I would paint the LED boards with glow in the dark paint just for the added bling.

  88. #88
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    Xanes ML01

    Here are some pictures of internals for Xanes ML01.

    Driver from both sides:
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-p1190094.jpg
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-p1190097.jpg

    Leds are certainly not geniue Cree:
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-p1190102.jpg

    Inside of Alu shell:
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-p1190117.jpg

    Alu shell from both sides:
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-p1190105.jpg
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-p1190106.jpg

    Lenses and sealing rubber:
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-p1190109.jpg

    Mount on plastic outer shell. Looks pretty weak:
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-p1190129.jpg

    Remote switch with connector:
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-p1190132.jpg

    Interestingly both Alu and plastic shell have their own switch button.
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-p1190114.jpg
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-p1190123.jpg

    Light pulls 2.5A from 4P1S battery pack when all 4 leds are turned on.

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    From looking at the driver pictures that is one inefficient light. Lots of battery power turned to heat by all those resistors.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

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    Interestingly I couldn't find single capacitor on this circuit. Q1-Q4 marked A1sHB are 2.3A mosfet transistors so in theory they can stand 9.2A continious current alltogether at 25°C and 1.5A or 6A alltogether at 70°C. They should run up to 20V Source/Drain and 8V on Gate (signaling). U1 (8pin IC) is giving signaling on the gate pin let the current flow and thus turns leds on or off.
    I need to take a look again what is the first Q on the input side. S4 should be Schottky barrier diode preventing reverse polarity or similar.

    Outbound, can you take a look at your driver if you can see what element blowed up under 2S battery pack? Was it U1?

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    @ledoman,

    Am I assuming correctly that there isn't a thermally conductive pad or thermally conductive paste underneath the LED PWB?

    They actually have a die casting that stood half a chance at cooling and then they covered it with plastic to reduce the airflow. Just shaking my head and wondering why.

    It wouldn't take much to leave off the rear plastic cover and add a few tapped holes for a better mount.

    It also looks like it would be easy to cut a piece of aluminum sheet to replace the plastic front cover. You could actually dissipate a bit of heat with that light.

    And what IS their fixation with tack solder joints? They have a double sided board with plated through holes. Why didn't they insert the power wires through holes to make reliable solder joints?

    @Outbound,

    Let me count the ways..............

    Scott Novak

  92. #92
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    Wow, I might be truly scared from ever using a cheap-o battery pack again. Today on my ride home from work my light didn't turn on, I looked down and the cable had pulled out from the battery. I took it off and looked at it to see if I might be able to just solder it back on when all of a sudden the battery started smoking and the plastic shrink wrap melted in two spots. When I got home I unwrapped it and found that the two leads on the battery PCB were less than a centimeter apart and uninsulated from each other! This thing is super dangerous! Is there a legit source for battery packs that fits these type of plugs? Now I have to buy my girlfriend a new battery...

  93. #93
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    Check The Battery Thread - quite a few sources depending on where you are located.

    -Garry

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    Quote Originally Posted by merzperson View Post
    Wow, I might be truly scared from ever using a cheap-o battery pack again. Today on my ride home from work my light didn't turn on, I looked down and the cable had pulled out from the battery. I took it off and looked at it to see if I might be able to just solder it back on when all of a sudden the battery started smoking and the plastic shrink wrap melted in two spots. When I got home I unwrapped it and found that the two leads on the battery PCB were less than a centimeter apart and uninsulated from each other! This thing is super dangerous! Is there a legit source for battery packs that fits these type of plugs? Now I have to buy my girlfriend a new battery...
    These type incidents are rarely heard of on the forum. I suspect that they happen much more frequently than what gets posted though. I think many folks that have had a cheapo battery or light either die unexpectedly or dramatically as yours did do not post about it out of fear of having folks say "told ya so".
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

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    Post battery issues in apropriate Battery 2016 and Beyond thread. @merzperson post some pictures there so we can see what happened.

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    Post battery issues in apropriate Battery 2016 and Beyond thread. @merzperson post some pictures there so we can see what happened.
    Unfortunately it's too late for photos, as I immediately disassembled the battery pack out of fear of fire or electrocution. Also, it appears that this event has fried my brand new light... what a disappointment. I suppose this means I have the opportunity to buy the Kaidomain version, which seems to have a bit better quality control and maybe even genuine CREE emitters(?).

  97. #97
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    If you decided to go with KD2 light I would suggest you to use better battery. Not that linked set is all bad, but KD Panasonic pack is shurely much better. So get separately
    http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S023808.z
    and
    http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024442.z
    Be aware they might have problems shipping battery packs alone. Contact their sales department.

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Novak View Post
    @ledoman,
    Am I assuming correctly that there isn't a thermally conductive pad or thermally conductive paste underneath the LED PWB?
    Of course there isn't any thermal paste. This is common for most chinese lights anyway. I woud be surprised if it was there.

  99. #99
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    Serfas TSL-2500

    Name:  Serfas TSL-2500.jpg
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    Anything look familiar?

    Whether or not the same company is making this light for Serfas is a good question. The internals could be significantly different.

    Serfas TSL-2500 Headlight (2500 Lumens)
    https://www.serfas.com/shop/products...t-2500-lumens/

    Serfas TSL-2500
    We Test Lights | TSL-2500 Test and Review

    Name:  TSL-2500 Lumen Test.jpg
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    Unfortunately they don't state the airflow conditions. On their home page they show a light test with a fan that could be blowing on the light.

    Name:  TSL-2500 Beam Angle Spot Air.jpg
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    Serfas True 2500 USB Headlight
    https://www.amazon.com/Serfas-True-2.../dp/B00MBI3GWS

    Scott Novak
    Last edited by Scott Novak; 02-26-2018 at 08:27 AM.

  100. #100
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    Ad claims for the Serfas TSL-2500:

    "Other notable features include Ram Air Cooling for increased brightness and longer LED life, while the extra nylon and alloy construction provides superior shock resistance."

    I'm more inclined to believe that the case actually impedes the airflow over the case.

    You would probably increase the shock resistance of the light just as much by clamping over a piece of inner tube as you would by using a plastic case.

    If you really want to significantly improve the shock resistance and improve the cooling of the internal electronics of a bike light, just add thermally conductive potting compound.

    Jacobs, a manufacturer of high end automobile ignition systems, claimed that by potting their ignition coil in thermally conductive silicone potting compound, they increased the vibrational G-force rating from 7 Gs to 62 Gs.

    I was potting prototype DC-DC converters in the late 90's. I don't remember the numbers, but the thermally conductive silicone potting compound increased the G-Force rating of the the modules by a staggering amount. It also allowed the modules to run reliably with a 100°C baseplate temperature.

    Scott Novak
    Last edited by Scott Novak; 02-26-2018 at 08:26 AM.

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    RE: Xanes ML01 version

    I've made a few assumptions that might not be correct. But, I think that this is the basic equivalent circuit for the Xanes ML01 LED driver, if you want to call it that. I'm not showing any paralleled parts and only the driver for one pair of LEDs. I'm using a switch symbol to represent the LED control IC.

    Name:  Xanes ML01 Sch.jpg
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    I don't see any provision for either voltage or current feedback on that circuit board.

    I've done a few estimates and it appears that if the light is switched on continuously, some parts would overheat and burn up with a fully charged 4.2 VDC Li-Ion cell.

    There could be fixed pulse width modulation to reduce the average current to the LED. But it would appear that the light intensity will vary with the Li-Ion cell voltage.

    I'd really like to see the waveform at the gate of Q1 through Q4.

    Looking at the light dispersion pattern, it seems like this might not be a half bad light if you are willing to modify it. You would want to replace the LED driver circuit of course.

    Adding a couple more screws to hold down the LED PWB along with some kind of thermally conductive material under the PWB would be in order. I'd also scrape the case to remove any ridges under the LED PWB.

    Then trash the plastic case. Cut a flat piece of aluminum for the faceplate, and rig a mount.

    Scott Novak

  102. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Novak View Post
    .....Whether or not the same company is making this light for Serfas is a good question. The internals could be significantly different.
    Almost certainly sharing the same housing. Based on the runtime/output graph the Serfas light must have a different driver. The crude bleed resistor driver shown in the pictures of the Xanes light would create a different runtime/output profile.

    I've had my hands on a Serfas True series light and a Serfas TSL1000 from customers wanting custom GoPro adapters. Outwardly they were well made and based on their behavior used some kind of MCU controlled driver.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  103. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Novak View Post
    I've made a few assumptions that might not be correct. But, I think that this is the basic equivalent circuit for the Xanes ML01 LED driver, if you want to call it that. I'm not showing any paralleled parts and only the driver for one pair of LEDs. I'm using a switch symbol to represent the LED control IC.

    Name:  Xanes ML01 Sch.jpg
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    I don't see any provision for either voltage or current feedback on that circuit board.
    Yes your circuit is basicaly the one as used. I only don't know what for is the Q beside diode S4 on the power input.

  104. #104
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    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-img_4815.jpg

  105. #105
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    LMAO, I plugged in the remote for that light I bought earlier, and the internal connector just broke off.

    Good thing my SS X3 still works fine, what a POS, oh well I might use it for something else instead considering it still works anyway.

  106. #106
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    Welcome to the new Japanese!

    Quote Originally Posted by MaverickRider View Post
    LMAO, I plugged in the remote for that light I bought earlier, and the internal connector just broke off.
    I can't tell you how many times I've repaired failed jacks because:

    1. The only support that the jack had was the circuit board.

    2. The solder joint was substandard and it cracked.

    If a solder joint is good, EVERY other component should fail before a solder joint does.

    Bad solder joints have constituted better than 70% of the failures that I've repaired in my career.

    By the middle 1980s, the engineering world had figured out nearly everything there was to know about reliable soldering. There is NEVER a good excuse for a bad solder joint.

    Scott Novak

  107. #107
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    Acacia L2 & XX2 2000LM

    I'm going to order a 6 cell battery box from GearBest and I thought I'd also buy a cheap light to play with.

    Can any of you tell what the beam spread of the optics of these two lights is just by looking?

    Name:  Acacia L2.6.jpg
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    Acacia L2
    https://www.gearbest.com/bike-lights/pp_595198.html



    Name:  XX2 2000LM 6.jpg
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    XX2 2000LM
    https://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_425412.html

    Scott Novak
    Last edited by Scott Novak; 03-01-2018 at 05:28 AM.

  108. #108
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    I suspect the first one has wider beam. From side view they looks similar to ones KD2 light use. I would not go with second one. Got some similar one and the lenses are somewhat curved. Can take a look at evening when I get home (that is more than 12 hours) and try to compare.

  109. #109
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    ZHISHUNJIA lights from Deal Extreme

    Here are a couple more variations from DealExtreme using the same extrusion used for the XX2 2000LM from GearBest.


    Name:  ZHISHUNJIA 8.4V XML T6 LED 1400lm angle.jpg
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    Name:  ZHISHUNJIA 8.4V XML T6 LED 1400lm rear.jpg
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    ZHISHUNJIA DC4.2-8.4V XML T6 LED 1400lm 4-Mode White Bike Light Headlamp - Black
    ZHISHUNJIA DC4.2-8.4V XML T6 LED 1400lm 4-Mode White Bike Light Headlamp - Black - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

    =================================
    =================================



    Name:  ZHISHUNJIA LR-Y2 1400lm Side.jpg
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    Name:  ZHISHUNJIA LR-Y2 1400lm Front.jpg
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    The same extrusion used with internal Li-Ion cells. Unfortunately it appears to be using cheap reflectors instead of lenses. The case does have considerably more surface area for heat transfer.

    ZHISHUNJIA LR-Y2 1400lm 4-Mode LED Flashlight Headlamp, USB Rechargeable Bicycle Lamp
    ZHISHUNJIA LR-Y2 1400lm 4-Mode LED Flashlight Headlamp, USB Rechargeable Bicycle Lamp - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

    Scott Novak

  110. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Novak View Post
    ......Unfortunately it appears to be using cheap reflectors instead of lenses.
    Odds are fairly good that some of the popular replacement optics (LEDDNA, Gloworm, etc.) could be fitted in place of the reflectors.

    Depending on ones beam characteristic preferences though the reflectors may be nice. A person would want to try it out before condemning them. Reflectors have always made a better beam for my preference than optics.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  111. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    on ones beam characteristic preferences though the reflectors may be nice. A person would want to try it out before condemning them.
    You are correct, I shouldn't be making assumptions about those reflectors.

    It does make me wonder what their design rational is. They are selling two lights that are basically the same except for internal, vs external battery packs. Reflectors with the internal battery, and optics for the external battery pack. You would think that they would use the same for both, just from a manufacturing cost standpoint.

    It is quite probable that I will cringe when I look inside the light. After I finish playing with the light I'll probably swap the white LEDs for red LEDs, reduce the output and use it for a taillight. I'm buying the light mainly for the extrusion and the driver.

    Scott Novak

  112. #112
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    Yes, it certainly does make one scratch their head a bit when trying to figure out why they would fit different parts. One thing I saw when working on a couple MS lights several years ago was that components in two lights purchased within a couple weeks of each other from the same seller had completely different PCBs. Only thing I could think of was that they had to use 2 different suppliers to meet their needs. For the boards to be different designs and component layouts was surprising though.

    I'm sure you will cringe on seeing what is inside. A hollow extrusion with a minimal shoulder supporting a thin MCPCB for the LEDs. Poor soldering. Components with bare minimum ratings.....
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  113. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Novak View Post
    After I finish playing with the light I'll probably swap the white LEDs for red LEDs, reduce the output and use it for a taillight.
    Scott Novak
    You can also do that with your "Bright Eyes" light with just the addition of a red wide angle lens. I ran an old P7 Gemini titan that way for a while just using a helmet mount attached to the seat rails for a mount. Performed excellent but I got tired of having to use a remote battery and dealing with the reduced runtimes for my headlights because of the extra drain. Shot shows from L to R, Surfas TL60 (low)/Titan (low - approx. 250 lumens)/ Superflash w/new battery. Just another option.
    Mole

    https://www.action-led-lights.com/co...angle-lens-red

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-004-2-.jpg

  114. #114
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    Scott I've got second one and have already changed lenses for 10 deg. LED-DNA. Driver is whinning so I've tried to fix it with hot glue over big inductor. Unsucessfully though. So I can't show you details, but it's somewhat similar to SS X2 ones. LEDs PCB is sitting on thin lips. I've put 0.1mm copper sheet under it so it sticks just little better. Leds are counterfeight, of course.
    You get what you pay.

  115. #115
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    Hey Bird Watchers, LOOK! A Four Eyed Owl!

    Name:  Four Eyed Owl Front.jpg
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    Name:  Four Eyed Owl Side.jpg
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    https://www.lightmalls.com/4-cree-xm...-18650-battery

    Even if by chance this light worked well, with the light being that top heavy, I'm sure that you would spend most of your ride readjusting the light.

    Scott Novak

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    ZHISHUNJIA light from Deal Extreme

    I ordered this one from Deal Extreme for $9.43 shipping included.
    Name:  ZHISHUNJIA 8.4V XML T6 LED 1400lm angle.jpg
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    Hopefully I'll get $9.43 worth of entertainment out of it.

    Scott Novak

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    Which interface did you choose USB or DC ? I've got USB version. This is the light I did not advise beamwise, but you can change lenses. It looks it can also run on standard 8.4V pack. I might try it when I see your driver.

  118. #118
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    ledoman.

    I ordered it with the DC option, 4.2 VDC to 8.4 VDC. I'll bet that the driver is the same in both versions with only the connector being different.

    I'm planning on buying several different type of lenses and experiment with them.

    I was curious to try the mount that it comes with. I'm sure that it's plastic and I probably won't use that mount in winter because it would probably just crack the first time it got bumped in subzero weather.

    Eventually I'll probably drill and tap the top of the case so that I can mount it to the underside of my rear rack, and also use red LEDs. I'll hard wire it with a remote switch so that I can turn it on from the handlebars.

    I'll disassemble it and take photos when it arrives.

    Scott Novak

  119. #119
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    Cheap Chinese Lights

    I have experience of 2 similar cheap 2 cell lights. I like 18650 replaceable batteries as I use samsung cells and even bring a small pack of spares with me:-

    https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/rH0AA...qZ/s-l1600.jpg

    The first set has a USB charge option or just take out the 18650, but only lasted 2 rides, there appeared to be a open gap in the centre of each lens, possibly not water proof enough for "sunny" Devon.......
    Additionally I managed to snap the tab off the mounting bracket.

    https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/0hsAA...QN/s-l1600.jpg

    This second set has survived 2 rides so far, I have 2 of them. Simpilier, no usb charge. Very bright, the light bounces a bit on the bracket, it is the ratchet for direction adjust which is a rivet so cannot be tightened. I will try putting some silicone grease, or thin plastic in the gap.

  120. #120
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    @RockySpieler, that pretty much sums up the title of the thread: "Cheap-o Chinese engineering".

    Annoying, but I still love my (genuine, to use an oxymoron) two Yindings ;-)

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    New in XANES series - SFL08 "inteligent" light:
    Name:  324029fa-6a42-4868-86d4-d2bcfe416d5d.jpg
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    https://www.banggood.com/XANES-SFL08...p-1261596.html

  122. #122
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    I like that auto-on feature of the xanes. Of course your light might dim if you go under a street light. It would be cool to have a sensor like that pointing forward if you are riding on the road. It could be used to automatically dim the light if there was an oncoming car.

    When was the last time there was a new cheap china light that was actually worth purchasing? I can't remember anything in the last year and a half. There was that one light that around $7 with the four xp-g, but other than that there's been nothing. Even our custom light from gearbest turned out to be a bust due to poor heat conduction.

    I'm still on my NW Yindings. I did end up purchasing a Niterider Lumina 700 all-in-one for around $44 but I haven't used it much.

    Am I missing out on something?
    Last edited by varider; 03-25-2018 at 12:49 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    It would be cool to have a sensor like that pointing forward if you are riding on the road. It could be used to automatically dim the light if there was an oncoming car.
    That is exactly what the Imalent BG10 has and how it works. Imalent calls it "smart adapt". I'm in process of reviewing it and hope to post the review soon. The BG10 also let's you turn that feature on & off.

    And no, you're not missing anything. Seems things went way downhill with the advent of the fake Cree LEDs.

    -Garry

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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    That is exactly what the Imalent BG10 has and how it works. Imalent calls it "smart adapt". I'm in process of reviewing it and hope to post the review soon. The BG10 also let's you turn that feature on & off.

    And no, you're not missing anything. Seems things went way downhill with the advent of the fake Cree LEDs.

    -Garry
    Looking forward to your review on the Imalent BG10. This lamp has caught my interest. I could care less about the Xanes light. I doubt the light sensor on the BG10 is really something that will make a difference to anyone encountering one while driving a car. Last thing I would want anyway is to have the lamp I am using suddenly drop in output . In certain circumstances that could be catastrophic.

  125. #125
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    That BG10 looks interesting. I like that you can swap out the batteries.

    Another USB light that looks half decent. Has this been posted?
    https://www.banggood.com/XANES-1200L...p-1206155.html

    I know that there's a lot of efficiency loss in the USB lights, but there is a huge convenience factor in having just one type of battery pack. It's probably more of a cheap commuter type of light.
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  126. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    That BG10 looks interesting. I like that you can swap out the batteries.

    Another USB light that looks half decent. Has this been posted?
    https://www.banggood.com/XANES-1200L...p-1206155.html

    I know that there's a lot of efficiency loss in the USB lights, but there is a huge convenience factor in having just one type of battery pack. It's probably more of a cheap commuter type of light.
    BG10 also allows you to use an external ( USB ) battery pack as well ( or so I am lead to believe ).

    The Xanes type lights are just your basic bottom-of-the-bucket Chinese crap lamp. No doubt they are just using the cheapest Chinese clone leds with the lousiest bluish tint you can imagine. Yeah they should light up the road enough to see but you're only going to get what you paid for and no more. The only good in the deal is that it's dirt cheap and will work with any of the USB type battery banks that are available almost anywhere on the net... ( which you have to buy extra ). Personally, if it were me I'd rather buy or use a basic single cell, single emitter torch than one of these cheap-o Junk-in-a-box Chinese bike lights. At least with a torch I can get a better emitter, better tint and carry as many cells as I think I might need and perhaps end up spending less money. Now if these were available with better emitters , better tint I might change my tune.

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    Based on the teardown of a different Xanes model earlier on in this thread, I'd predict this dual emitter Xanes light has the emitters in parallel and is using a simple PWM, bleed resistor driver. If this is the case, it incurs an even greater loss in efficiency than a USB light using a switching type driver and parallel LEDs.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  128. #128
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    Anybody have problems ordering from Kaidomain? I placed an order 6 weeks ago and haven't heard anything about the status besides the automated checkout e-mail upon ordering. I tried sending them a message 10 days ago and got no response.

  129. #129
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    I placed a small order for some dtp copper boards (March 10th) and never saw an update. After a week or two I emailed KD and they replied with a tracking number and tracking website link (www.4px.com). That tracking number FINALLY showed up as departed origin country yesterday. KD is definitely not one of the faster shippers!

    Also, there is a thread for shipping issues from China where this discussion is probably better posted.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by merzperson View Post
    Anybody have problems ordering from Kaidomain? I placed an order 6 weeks ago and haven't heard anything about the status besides the automated checkout e-mail upon ordering. I tried sending them a message 10 days ago and got no response.
    KD is classic for this. Basically have to email them complaining before they will ship your order. Rather irritating. Doesnt matter the size of the order either $20 or $200 they will sit and do nothing with it till you complain.

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    merzperson, try to contact member BanL here or at BLF forum. Same person, representative of Kaidomain on both forums. Mostly active on BLF.

  132. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by merzperson View Post
    Anybody have problems ordering from Kaidomain? I placed an order 6 weeks ago and haven't heard anything about the status besides the automated checkout e-mail upon ordering. I tried sending them a message 10 days ago and got no response.
    If you ordered anything with a battery there might be delays. Not to mention that there were a few Chinese holidays during the time that you ordered. Today ( April 5th ) is another Chinese holiday. Not unusual for things to come to a halt during the different holidays, especially the ones listed as "National holidays. Sometimes they even start them early.

    Anyway, check your spam folder on your email. Sometimes the return emails get routed as spam.

  133. #133
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    Does anyone have follow-ups on lights they ordered? I'm looking for something to play around with.

    Also, is there any consensus as to which if any of the gearbest/banggood/DX lights is actually decent or is it so luck of the draw that you might as well order anything?

    Thanks

  134. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Desertride View Post
    Does anyone have follow-ups on lights they ordered? I'm looking for something to play around with.

    Also, is there any consensus as to which if any of the gearbest... lights is actually decent?
    Nitefighter BT40S
    best all around bike light.

  135. #135
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    GearBest sells the "genuine" Yinding dual emitter light, available in cool white or neutral white. That and the BT40S are the "solid" ones you can count on. Some others might be "okay".

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  136. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius9 View Post
    Nitefighter BT40S
    best all around bike light.
    It was on sale last weekend, $24.00 light head only.

    There's also a couple sets of Ituo XP3's on amazon for 109USD. If only they shipped to Canada.

    C and B Seen has a some nice lights. Tempted to get another one just to try out some new leds.
    They come with XPG3s but the new Samsung LH351D cri 90 leds look interesting.
    Not sure what's happening with the company. They shipped my light pretty fast but no shipping confirmation and no response to emails asking what's going on.
    The light just showed up the day I was about to contact paypal.

  137. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by arc View Post

    C and B Seen has a some nice lights. Tempted to get another one just to try out some new leds.
    They come with XPG3s but the new Samsung LH351D cri 90 leds look interesting.
    Not sure what's happening with the company. They shipped my light pretty fast but no shipping confirmation and no response to emails asking what's going on.
    The light just showed up the day I was about to contact paypal.
    I had similar experences with C&B Seen. Communication and shipping is slow but never any problems getting what I ordered. Good performing lights for the money!
    Mole

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    Quote Originally Posted by arc View Post
    It was on sale last weekend, $24.00 light head only.

    There's also a couple sets of Ituo XP3's on amazon for 109USD. If only they shipped to Canada.
    Thanks everyone for the info. I've actually been eyeing the Ituo for a few days and with only two left and the advantage of getting it much sooner from a somewhat reputable manufacturer I just ordered it. Hopefully it will come with an improved mount.

    The other thing I'd like to pick up is one of those battery boxes that I can use with salvaged laptop 18650s. I'm just confused if they are all the same, whether you can configure them to output 4.2 (for an old light I have from 2012) and whether it makes sense to buy the 6 cell version.

  139. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by Desertride View Post
    Thanks everyone for the info. I've actually been eyeing the Ituo for a few days and with only two left and the advantage of getting it much sooner from a somewhat reputable manufacturer I just ordered it. Hopefully it will come with an improved mount.
    Reputable... Amazon is what they have left. I have been trying to get replacement mounts for multiple wiz20s (offered to pay for them) and ignored. They were good till last fall, sadly now it's just more of the Chinese Lottery till they disappear completely.


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  140. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Desertride View Post
    Thanks everyone for the info. I've actually been eyeing the Ituo for a few days and with only two left and the advantage of getting it much sooner from a somewhat reputable manufacturer I just ordered it. Hopefully it will come with an improved mount.
    If you go with the Ituo and are disappointed with the mount, you can always switch it to one of my GoPro adapters. Mounting will be bulletproof then.

    Quote Originally Posted by Desertride View Post
    The other thing I'd like to pick up is one of those battery boxes that I can use with salvaged laptop 18650s. I'm just confused if they are all the same, whether you can configure them to output 4.2 (for an old light I have from 2012) and whether it makes sense to buy the 6 cell version.
    The battery boxes are pretty much junk IME. Maybe OK for road use, but on trails the cells bounce around and lose contact causing the light to blink or turn off. Some folks have found they work better by adding shims to compress the springs pretty much flat. I've not tried that.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  141. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Desertride View Post
    Thanks everyone for the info. I've actually been eyeing the Ituo for a few days and with only two left and the advantage of getting it much sooner from a somewhat reputable manufacturer I just ordered it. Hopefully it will come with an improved mount.
    Desertride, Israel, I'm guessing you ride in some hot weather. Slim chance that Amazon Ituo XP3 will have a improved mount and I've broken all 5 of the Gopro Ituo mounts I've had (no issues with my Wiz20 mount though) so would recommend you look at the Vancbiker mounts. I ride in the deserts of Arizona and consider these mounts a must even for the better lights like the XP3 your ordered. Lowers operating temp by 10+ degrees from my measurements.
    Mole

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-005.jpg

  142. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    .....I've broken all 5 of the Gopro Ituo mounts I've had (no issues with my Wiz20 mount though)
    Kind of a surprise there. I've sold far more Wiz20 to GoPro adapters than the XP series to GoPro version.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  143. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Kind of a surprise there. I've sold far more Wiz20 to GoPro adapters than the XP series to GoPro version.
    I believe he's talking about the GoPro adapters made by ITUO themselves.

  144. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Kind of a surprise there. I've sold far more Wiz20 to GoPro adapters than the XP series to GoPro version.
    XP series lights come stock with a functional and reliable plastic go pro lighthead mount. Wiz20 comes with a click in QR style mount that requires changing to opeate with a Gopro style system. In both cases it's the bar mount that fails so XP's can still be used with any Gopro style bar or helmet mount vs. the Wiz20 that requires a new lighthead adapter to fit anything other than the stock bar mount + I think your the only one who makes Gopro adapters for that light. I was lucky enough to get one of the first version Wiz20's that came with a much stronger mount but those who's lights came with the fragile mounts have only you to turn to (lucky for them!) to make their otherwise excellent lights functional again.
    Mole

  145. #145
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    Ah, I thought you meant you had broken the GoPro compatible piece on the light itself.

    While not everyone tells me what broke when ordering adapters there have been quite a few that mentioned breaking or damage to the piece attached to the light head on both XP and Wiz20 lights. A few mentioned the mounting screws pulling through the plastic piece. I do not formally track this type stuff, just recall it from the communication as folks place orders.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  146. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Desertride, Israel, I'm guessing you ride in some hot weather. Slim chance that Amazon Ituo XP3 will have a improved mount and I've broken all 5 of the Gopro Ituo mounts I've had (no issues with my Wiz20 mount though) so would recommend you look at the Vancbiker mounts. I ride in the deserts of Arizona and consider these mounts a must even for the better lights like the XP3 your ordered. Lowers operating temp by 10+ degrees from my measurements.
    Mole

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    Thanks for the info. Part of the idea of riding at night is to avoid the heat and in some locals where I ride the temps are reliably cooler overnight, but obviously keeping the light cooler will always benefit its longevity. I'll see how it performs with the stock setup and whether I prefer it bar or helmet mounted, then look into alternative mounts.

  147. #147
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    Okay, saw these on ebay and thought someone might find these interesting. These of course look to be very much like the very nice Fenix lamps. Even has the same ( or similar ) lens on the front to spread out the beam pattern. Looks like a decent mount and you can switch out batteries. Likely the down side is that the emitters are only T6 bright white while the brand name Fenix use the very nice XM-L2 neutral white emitters. Still, at this price not a bad deal. Not sure these are on the USA website but you might be able to order them off the AU site.

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-s-l1600.jpg

  148. #148
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    Interesting light. Also available on AliExpress

    What's with the cob emitter on the top? Map light?

    Edit: the pictures on this listing explain it. It doubles as a work light. You can also see what it looks like inside.

  149. #149
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    Bike light, work light and USB power bank too. Probably a useful light if you don't need a dedicated bike light.

  150. #150
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    Hmm . . . a very interesting multipurpose light!

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  151. #151
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    I've purchased several of the tail lights that look like that under the name Blitzu on Amazon. Great lights, reliable, nice mount, and cheap.

    I don't see that headlight on Amazon, but there are some very similar ones

  152. #152
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    Do you guys know of any good lights to put on the chainstays?

  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by znomit View Post
    Bike light, work light and USB power bank too. Probably a useful light if you don't need a dedicated bike light.
    Indeed! Didn't know that was a COB panel on the top. Looking at the Aliexpress link, me thinks I detect the dreaded "bluish" tint of the cheap T6 emitters. That said it might not be that bad in actual use, certainly looks more than enough light to ride by.

    Glad someone mentioned it can act as a USB power bank. Last night forgot to charge my phone and was thinking I'd be battling low power all day. I almost forgot that the Raveman PR1200 I have has the same option. ( Yea! )...I get to use the 1200 today as a power bank!

    I tell ya, if I didn't already have enough lights I'd buy one of these just because it has so many uses. ( and replaceable batteries to boot )

    Edit; would be interesting to see if you could replace the emitters with better emitters since it looks like you can take off the front.

  154. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    Do you guys know of any good lights to put on the chainstays?
    Do you want the light to be visible from the sides or the rear? From the sides, any small tail light should work. If you want a low light visible from the rear, then mount it to the seat stays, right? For side visibility it might make more sense to wrap he chainstays in 3M reflective tape.

  155. #155
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    From the sides. Many mounts are made to attach to fat handlebars and seatposts, not so much to skinny chainstays. I've done reflective tape on my other bike, and will probably do it to this one too, but I want lighting as well.

  156. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    From the sides. Many mounts are made to attach to fat handlebars and seatposts, not so much to skinny chainstays. I've done reflective tape on my other bike, and will probably do it to this one too, but I want lighting as well.
    Best bet would probably be those small silicone lights or these. On the latter you can replace the bungee with zip ties for more security.

  157. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Indeed! Didn't know that was a COB panel on the top. Looking at the Aliexpress link, me thinks I detect the dreaded "bluish" tint of the cheap T6 emitters. That said it might not be that bad in actual use, certainly looks more than enough light to ride by.
    Speaking of BC30 knockoffs, how does this one from lightmalls strike you? (they even copy the name)

  158. #158
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    For anyone interested, the BT40s (light only) is on flash sale now for $16. 11 left as of now.

    https://www.gearbest.com/bicycling-g...ml?wid=1433363

  159. #159
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    Price doubles when put in cart. No gearbest for me.

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    Same doubled price for me too. No cheap meal, but it happens from time to time if you are lucky.

    I've got in contact with Gearbest. Do you have any suggestions on lights that should be reviewed? I might get one or two.

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    Sorry you guys missed it.

    Ledoman, maybe review those multi emitter marsing lights?

  162. #162
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    Don't know which ones exactly did you mean, but Marsing have had pretty bad quality with SSX2 clone. I don't expect others would be any better. And already know the leds are cheapo fakes.

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    Most of the lights they have seem pretty bad.
    The Zanflare B3 has been reviewed as well as the Ravemen.
    UltraFire UH - Z1? ON THE ROAD MX3-BL?

  164. #164
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    I'm sure output is dismal, but I like the idea behind lights like this.

    https://www.gearbest.com/bike-lights...943950400.html

    There's a version that works with disc brakes, but GB doesn't appear to have it yet.

    I don't see anything on GB worth using though. BG has a better selection.

  165. #165
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    Yes, to bad there are very few good lights there. I was expecting Zanflare would build NW version of their B3, but it looks they never will.

    @Desertride, UltraFire UH - Z1 is very likely as most others hollow one, same as many we have seen here. "ON THE ROAD MX3-BL" is just a bit pricely flashlight beamwise with better user interface. Ok it look it has remote switch, but the mount is not suitable for MTB. As title says it's for the road use. Will think about it...

  166. #166
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    It looks like there is a 5000-5500k version of the zanflare, but it's twice as expensive. For neutral white are you looking at something closer to 4k?

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    NW version of B3 is just listed but unavalaible. Around 5000K is just fine, 4k is to warm for my taste.

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    If you can get review items from BG, try out the Xanes STL07.

    https://www.banggood.com/XANES-STL07...p-1305253.html

    I just got it, and can confirm it senses forward and backwards acceleration, and seems to ignore side to side and vertical acceleration. It claims to put out 200 lumens. I don't think it's brighter than my 150 lumen Cygolite Hotshot Pro 150. It's hard to judge in daylight, but I'd estimate around 100 lumens.

    I'd also like to see how this performs.
    https://www.banggood.com/XANES-PL01-...p-1289491.html

    They have it mounted to the seat and chain stays, which I'd like to do for side visibility on the street. If you got a free review sample, I'd also like to know how long it lasts mounted to the pedals as they've shown.

  169. #169
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    Unfortunately I don't have any contacts with BG. Maybe Garry can help you.

  170. #170
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    I'm not doing any reviews right now. It got to be too much for me to keep up with.

    -Garry

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    I totally understand Garry. It's a lot of work to do a proper review.

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    @Leaftye; I really don't think anyone following a bike using something that lit up when braking is actually going to recognize this as " a braking light". IMO having something to indicate braking on a bicycle is just a waste of time.

    On the other hand I saw this on BG and thought this interesting although no way I'd use one on my bike. On the other hand if I had an ebike I'd consider one for the back of the rack.

    You are right though, BG has a lot of bike light stuff. I wanted to use the other word that starts with "S" but decided to be nice and just say "stuff".

  173. #173
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    It's already lit. It just gets brighter.

    I like the idea of turn signals, but I think they're pointless when so close together. There's a reason why motorcycle signals are required to be a certain distance apart.

    Edit: It has different modes. Yes, it can blink, but it can also pulse and then pulse even brighter when braking. I think it has manual and auto full brightness mode too.
    Last edited by leaftye; 07-19-2018 at 02:28 PM.

  174. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    try out the Xanes STL07.

    [url]https://www.banggood.com/XANES-STL07-Smart-Bike-Tail-Light-Brak
    Just ordered it; thanks! Looks like well-made stuff.

  175. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
    Just ordered it; thanks! Looks like well-made stuff.
    You don't have your seat all the way forward do you? It needs the rear parts of the rails to mount to.

    Yeah, it feels solid. Seems like a decent light.

  176. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    You don't have your seat all the way forward do you? It needs the rear parts of the rails to mount to.
    Unusual mount is a primary reason for me to order it: probably, I'll put it to one of my kid's bikes - as common seatpost-mounted flashers have quite limited lifetime there.

  177. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    NW version of B3 is just listed but unavalaible. Around 5000K is just fine, 4k is to warm for my taste.
    Yep I have the only nw 4K B3 in existence! I haven’t gotten around to using the light, GoPro mount on the light head is oddly sized, very poor qc. Won’t work on my Vanc mount either. My dremel mite get some action soon, but my nite rides are seriously limited these days due to work schedule.

  178. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
    Unusual mount is a primary reason for me to order it: probably, I'll put it to one of my kid's bikes - as common seatpost-mounted flashers have quite limited lifetime there.
    Sounds like a good candidate then since it's mostly protected by the seat. It uses zip ties to attach, which would probably be good enough, but I think metal ties could be substituted. If I can find mine, I'll give it a shot.

  179. #179
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    Maybe I'll modify it to something like Cateye rear light seat mount (two bars tightened with screws), but probably zip tie is reliable enough. Let's see...

  180. #180
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    https://www.banggood.com/Lumintop-C0...t=chendongling

    New Lumintop with cutoff beam and can run off power bank. There’s 2 reviews on BLF for this light,

  181. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirt Road View Post
    https://www.banggood.com/Lumintop-C0...t=chendongling

    New Lumintop with cutoff beam and can run off power bank. There’s 2 reviews on BLF for this light,
    Brownie points for having a cut-off type optic and being able to charge and run at the same time but.....What about the funky bar mount? Judging from the photos there is no locking mechanism for the back of the mount. That said I don't know what is preventing a lamp with a mount like this from just falling off with the first big bump in the road.

  182. #182
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    Hello, I'm back .

    Maybe not newest lamps but I have some new toys .

    Last years Vastefire 2*XM-L2 6000LM (It's model number i think )

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-vastfire_3.jpg
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-20180816120610.pngNew cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-20180816120537.png

  183. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirt Road View Post
    https://www.banggood.com/Lumintop-C0...t=chendongling

    New Lumintop with cutoff beam and can run off power bank. There’s 2 reviews on BLF for this light,
    I took another look at the Lumintop C01 and looked at the video review. Seems the mount works exactly as I first thought. Basically the back of the mount utilizes plastic teeth on which the back part latches onto. ( Note; there is no "lock-on" mechanism. The back is held on only by tension. ) I have a very low opinion of such mounts as I had a cheap torch mount that worked in the same manner and it was an absolute POS. This one might be a bit better but at some point the teeth are going to wear out and the lamp then be hard to keep from moving ( if not outright falling off the bars ). In the video the guy mounts it to a torch which makes it look stable but in the real world bike handlebars tend to be a bit larger.

    The lamp it's self looks half decent. Most of the beam pattern though is more forward but for the price it might work fairly well.

    ( Edit : If I were to buy one of these likely I'd likely take a piece of two sided Velcro and loop the Velcro around the two pieces in back to make for a more secure lock. While that might work no telling really how much movement might happen once the interlocking teeth begin to wear....I hate stuff with plastic teeth. Just does not inspire confidence in getting a tight fit. )

  184. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    The lamp it's self looks half decent. Most of the beam pattern though is more forward but for the price it might work fairly well.
    For me the price is the main drawback to this light. Whatever good qualities it has the price puts it in direct competition with the more powerful Ravemen CR500 that is of known excellent quality and performance.
    Mole

    https://www.rakclighting.com/collect...led-bike-light

  185. #185
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    Another good looking lamp with very promising specifications :

    2x Cree XM-L2 LEDs
    max 1800lm
    4400 built in battery
    3 constant modes + 2 blinkies (strobe + SOS)
    USB rechargeable
    LED power indicator
    aluminium body construction
    Banggood - XANES-DL13 - 1800 lumens - 24,89$
    Aliexpress - Vastfire 1800 lumens 2x XM-L2 - 26,37$
    Tomtop - Y10 600LM USB Rechargeable Bike Light - 24,99$

    If somebody would ask - I've bought the one from banggood - 1800 lumens

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-y10_bike_light.jpg

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-20180814154210.png

    There is also green version rated 2400 lumens, but as the pricing is almost the same I don't think that there be any major difference.

    Aliexpress - Wosawe BCD-006 - 28,92$

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-htb1rkzmch1ybunjsszeq6yblfxai.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-y10_bike_light.jpg  


  186. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    For me the price is the main drawback to this light. Whatever good qualities it has the price puts it in direct competition with the more powerful Ravemen CR500 that is of known excellent quality and performance.
    Mole

    https://www.rakclighting.com/collect...led-bike-light
    Correct. The Lumitop CO-1 is definitely over priced. Raveman CR-500 would certainly be the better deal. If it had a better mount and a remote than yes, the $49 asking price would make more sense. Judging from the photos the CR-500 has the better over all more even / smoother beam pattern. Possible though that the Lumitop has better throw but can't say for sure unless I were to see one in person and then do a direct comparison.

  187. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dominik.M View Post
    Another good looking lamp with very promising specifications :



    Banggood - XANES-DL13 - 1800 lumens - 24,89$

    If somebody would ask - I've bought the one from banggood - 1800 lumens

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The BGood Xanes DL13 is interesting, if only because the price is so low and the mount looks like it might actually work. (**Please note that the mount in the photo above is not what is shown on the BGood site for the DL13. Go to the BG site to see the mount...Oh shoot!
    Looks like they show two different mounts! The one I like is not the one with the threaded strap shown in the above photo. This creates a problem. There is another mount they show at the top of the ad that has a mount with a threaded screw...much more to my liking )
    ) I don't believe the claim of 1800 lumen. Now if it actually produces 1200 lm that would be great.

    Since you claim to own one of these I'm curious as to your take on the claimed output. How bright do you think this lamp is on it's highest output? Which mount do you have? I have to admit I'm somewhat confused by the chart that you supplied. Looks like the chart is saying the lumen output is just over 400 lumen ( ? ).

    Whatever, if the output is near 1K lumen with the emitters being true NW Cree XM-L2's, along with all the other features I'd have to say that the price is a bargain. Not to mention it looks like the front of the lamp is held on with screws so it might even be possible to take off the front of the lamp and use different optics.

  188. #188
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    del.

  189. #189
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    I've got the lamp exactly as on the attached picture - with the manual for "Y10 Bike light". I've expected about 600-700 lumens on high, these days it's easily achievable, but the real lumen output's are as follow :
    HIGH : 433 lumens
    MID : 227 lumens
    LOW : 109 lumens

    So, no bargain here, You get what you pay for

  190. #190
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    cheap Chinese stuff is always way off from the bogus claims anymore. the days of at least honest cheap stuff are long dead.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.


  191. #191
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    You simply have to find the border between cheap and too cheap to be true .
    That's why I'm doing some research .

  192. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dominik.M View Post
    I've got the lamp exactly as on the attached picture - with the manual for "Y10 Bike light". I've expected about 600-700 lumens on high, these days it's easily achievable, but the real lumen output's are as follow :
    HIGH : 433 lumens
    MID : 227 lumens
    LOW : 109 lumens

    So, no bargain here, You get what you pay for
    Thanks for the feedback. Since it still has two batteries inside ( likely ) can you tell me how long it runs on high? I'm figuring that if it only outputs around 430 lumen the run time on high should be over 3hrs.

  193. #193
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    Cat-man-do, I did not complete my setup to make burn-time measurements...
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-img_20180725_160612951_hdr.jpg
    I need to adapt some kind of mount and active cooling system . Then I'll be able to provide some more data.

  194. #194
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    @Dominik.M...I just found one of the lights like yours only with the mount that I wanted ( according to the photo on Amazon ) *sigh*, I don't know why but I ordered another cheap-o light that also caught my attention. The other one is this one ( photo below ) which I also found on Amazon. Sometimes I hate myself because I know I'll likely only use these a couple times but once in a while I still like to see if there are bargains worth buying. I should have these by next week. I'll let you know what I think about them and how they compare to my brand name lights after I've had some time to fool with them ( being the fool I am... ).

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-6adb655f-6f7b-4dc5-ae53-8b4b8f0a5da3.png

  195. #195
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    Upset

    .del sorry I don't know why it's post itself here.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-raylights_htb1_ry_2.jpg  

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-raylights_htb1_ry_4.jpg  

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-raylights_htb1_ry_3.jpg  

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-20180816131815.png  

    Last edited by Dominik.M; 08-19-2018 at 05:31 AM. Reason: wrong place

  196. #196
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    Another good looking cheapo light... With cutout and a quite reasonable handlebar mount.

    Aliexpress : 3 Modes LED Light Bicycle 1000 Lumens -15$
    Alibaba : 2018 New German standard USB rechargeable led - 10$ in wholesale

    Case material: aluminum alloy
    Surface treatment: wear-resistant anodic oxidation
    Light source material: T6 (light passed StVZO authentication in Germany).
    Radiation distance: 300-500 meters
    Bright light: 1000 lumens
    Spot type: uniform distribution (road width 3 meters)
    Charge and discharge protection: built-in overcharge and discharge IC, extend battery life.
    Lamp color temperature: 7500K
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-raylights_htb1_ry_2.jpg
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-raylights_htb1_ry_4.jpg
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-raylights_htb1_ry_3.jpg

    So, 1000 lumens they say? I was hoping for 500-600 from 1x18650 Li-Ion.
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-20180816131815.png

    Almost 200 lumens, the worst bang for a buck value ever
    But honestly If you need a cheap light for a city it might actually work

  197. #197
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    @Dominik.M....about the above lamp.. Looks like a very nice beam pattern but once again it bothers me that the actual lumen output look to be only half of the claimed output. What really draws my attention to this lamp is that it looks like you might be able to switch out the battery. Can you confirm this? Looks like the back of the lamp has a removable cap on it. If so that would be a really big plus and would trump the fact that the one I linked to has a remote...although I love's me's a nice remote and hidden flash modes.

  198. #198
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    About : Click image for larger version. 

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    Yes - it has replaceable battery.
    The beam pattern looks fine - I'll make some comparison photos in the future.
    The front glass is some kind of thin acrylic like material - It looks that it might scratch easily.

  199. #199
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    Mini review; Tansoen Y-10

    Okay got the light today and just did a short ride. Nice night for a ride, even if it was at 2:00am. I'm going to be as brief as possible. The Y-10 is advertised as being 1000 lumen. While it is quite bright it's not 1K lm. If I had to guess I'd guess around 500 lumen, tops.

    First the positives; I was very impressed with the mount. Very robust mount for such a cheap light. Beam pattern is a typical double spot beam and the lamp does have some decent throw. While 500 lumen is not super bright I was not able to out-run the usefulness of the beam pattern even when I was moving fast. Since I'm pretty much accustomed to a wider beam pattern it was a little strange using a lamp with a much narrower beam pattern. Some of this though was not the fault of the lamp. My handlebars are tapered and so I really couldn't get the lamp aimed exactly the way I wanted. Because of this the lamp was slightly off center of where I was riding. My fault really, I could of fixed this before the ride but it was late and didn't feel like making a shim to fix the issue. The lamp does have a unique feature though in that it is designed to step-pivot side to side. That could come in real handy for someone going down a curved hill at speed. One click to the right or left and you have the lamp aimed 10° to the right or left of center.

    The negatives; The voltage indicators are very bright. If I were to use something like this on a regular basis I would have to put tape over the first two. The flash modes are in the main menu with this lamp. While the strobe mode I consider useless the SOS mode is surprisingly useful. Unlike most SOS modes this one is a very fast SOS. This makes it quite useful for daytime riding as it is quite bright. Once again the beam pattern is a typical conical beam pattern. If you aim it straight ahead it will quite likely be blinding to approaching traffic. My biggest pet peeve with this lamp is the tint of the LED's. While not as bad as some others I've seen in the past, this one just seems a tad too cold a tint to be able to please my very critical preferences. If this lamp had used emitters more in the 5-6000K range I'd likely be giving it a rave review. That said, for $20 you get what you pay for.

    Summing up, would I buy this lamp again? If I only had $20 for a light, yes I would. Beam tint is only important when you have used better lamps ( of which I have used many better lamps ). When you have the money for a better lamp you can afford to be picky. This lamps works and lets you see what you need to see. If you can live with the beam tint you should be pleased with the product. ( no comment on run time of the lamp as that would require a much longer ride )

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2018-tansoen-y10.jpg

  200. #200
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    Anyone suggest something to pair my BT40s clone with? Something for my helmet, all in one would be nice, any Exposure clones?

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