Narrower optic/reflector for Xeccon 1211- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Narrower optic/reflector for Xeccon 1211

    I have an Xeccon 1211 (Xeccon Spiker 1211 Helmet Light w/ 2600mAh Battery) light that I'd like to use on my helmet but the beam has too much flood.

    mtbrevolution have no other options for the reflector, but did offer to swap it for a light with a narrower beam. This is Leonard's usual good service. The only trouble is it's about twice the weight, and this isn't for me.

    I tried one of these from cutter: Cutter Electronics, Supplier of lowest cost leds on the internet and it's the same dimensions, but unfortunately also the same flood beam. Cutter doesn't have any other options. The reflector is 29mm diameter and 15.5mm high.

    Does anyone know of a narrow reflector or optic that would fit these dimensions?

    Thanks

    Tim

  2. #2
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    Its the nature of the light. only way to change it at all is it appears the stock one is an orange peel (faceted) reflector, as is the one from cutter, youll need a smooth finish reflector to get the beam any tighter. If cutter doesnt have it, you may be able to find one somewhere on the chinese sites.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wombat View Post
    I have an Xeccon 1211 (Xeccon Spiker 1211 Helmet Light w/ 2600mAh Battery) light that I'd like to use on my helmet but the beam has too much flood.

    mtbrevolution have no other options for the reflector, but did offer to swap it for a light with a narrower beam. This is Leonard's usual good service. The only trouble is it's about twice the weight, and this isn't for me.

    I tried one of these from cutter: Cutter Electronics, Supplier of lowest cost leds on the internet and it's the same dimensions, but unfortunately also the same flood beam. Cutter doesn't have any other options. The reflector is 29mm diameter and 15.5mm high.

    Does anyone know of a narrow reflector or optic that would fit these dimensions?

    Thanks

    Tim
    I just dug my 1211 out of my lamp box and was shining it around. Looks pretty bright just shining it around. In actual use though is where things seem to change. Nothing wrong with the beam pattern, just doesn't seem that bright when on the trail.

    Just now I went out on my balcony and shone the 1211 around and compared it one of my Ultrafire 501-B torches that is using an XP-L ( cool white ) drop-in. I've actually only used the XP-L torch a couple times when on rides ( understandable considering all the lamps I own ) but when I did I thought it did a very good job ( for a single emitter light source ). When comparing the two beam patterns and lamp intensity I was surprised at how bright the 1211 was in comparison. The beam patterns were somewhat similar so all of this had me scratching my head wondering why I thought before it wasn't so bright . If I had no problems riding with the drop-in torch why was I not getting the same effect with the 1211?

    My guess is that it's not the reflector or emitter but the lamp itself. The 1211 get hot very, very fast. It could be that the emitter pill size / design of the lamp is just not able to sink away the heat generated by the emitter fast enough to maintain a bright output. If true, without proper heat sinking the emitter is going to over-heat and the output is going to drop like a rock within just a couple minutes of use on high. Otherwise, I can't figure out why it looks so bright when I first turn it on but once I'm riding it just doesn't seem so bright. All lamps lose intensity once they've been running for a while but some obviously lose more than others.

    Anyway, if I'm right about this than replacing the reflector or using an optic isn't going to change the output much. Going forward if you need more intensity and more throw ( but not a super narrow ( or super wide ) beam pattern ) you might also consider the Magicshine 808 with XM-L2 emitter ( MJ-808-L2 ). You already have a battery so you just need the lamp head...~ $50. The 808 while a bit heavier than the 1211 is not so heavy that it is really that noticeable...but that is my opinion.

  4. #4
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    WHOA!!...I just discovered that the emitter on my 1211 is not even attached to the base! Shheeesh....no wonder the emitter is losing output! I should be able to fix this with some thermal glue. I will need a small clamp though...ah, always something to screw up the plan. I'll have to let Leonard know about this. It could be they are just allowing for the pressure from the reflector to keep the emitter star in contact with the pill but in my opinion...not enough pressure. Better if they had used some thermal paste.

    Hummm...I have an extra XM-L2 3C emitter sitting on a Noctigon MCPCB...tempted to make the switch..

  5. #5
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    Cat, the PCB not being mounted is of no concern especially if the housing is machined to center the emitter PCB. Like how they used to use press fit pills that the emitter PCB sat in (till they realized simply machining the case to have a simple wall was easier than using press fit pills). Obviously lacking thermal paste isn't a great thing. But if the inside of the case is anodized, minimal paste is required. Polishing and anodizing creates an amazingly smooth surface that requires the tiniest amount of paste is enough.

  6. #6
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    Thanks to you both for responding. I have looked on the Chinese sites for alternatives, but I'll have another look. Cat, the other issue with the light is that I'm comparing it to my Gloworm x1, which is a great helmet light, and I love the fact it's only around 2 oz in weight.

    The light is bright enough, but running it in conjunction with any of my bar lights, including the Yinding, it gets completely overpowered. This isn't the case with the Gloworm. Running it on low is sufficient for all of the Yinding settings except the highest, and when I run it together with the Nitefighter BT70, it's only when I run this on the 3rd setting or higher that I need to also use a higher setting on the Gloworm.

    Thanks

    Tim

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Cat, the PCB not being mounted is of no concern especially if the housing is machined to center the emitter PCB. Like how they used to use press fit pills that the emitter PCB sat in (till they realized simply machining the case to have a simple wall was easier than using press fit pills). Obviously lacking thermal paste isn't a great thing. But if the inside of the case is anodized, minimal paste is required. Polishing and anodizing creates an amazingly smooth surface that requires the tiniest amount of paste is enough.
    Actually the lamp is using a star. Discovered that the star is loose enough to move. It wasn't doing so initially ( I don't think ) but when I started poking around with a small screw driver I saw it move and said to myself, "ehh...wait a minute".

    Now I can't make it lay flat again so maybe a small amount of paste was initially used but not enough to hold it for long. Here's the biggest issue; The reflector doesn't actually contact the star enough to hold it down. That's not good. I don't know why they just didn't use screws to hold down the star. Now if the reflector really pushed against the star enough it would all likely be fine but it's not. I'll have to desolder one side of the star so I can clean the base and then remount the star. I'm betting when I do this that the lamp is going to work a whole lot better when it starts getting hot.

    When I remove the star I'll tell you if they were using any thermal paste.

    @Wombat > I think everyone knows how well the Gloworm lamps work. I don't own an X1 but I'm sure it rocks as a helmet lamp. Reviews have always been good.

  8. #8
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    Cat, star/pcb one in the same the way I was referring to it, sorry for not clarifying that.

    I would check the star there should be a plastic spacer between the reflector and the star which centers the reflector. If that's missing for whatever reason, that's the ENTIRE problem. I'll try to remember to take a pic when I get home, of one to show you what I mean. But it will take up the space and press the emitter firmly against the case as well as keep it centered.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Cat, star/pcb one in the same the way I was referring to it, sorry for not clarifying that.

    I would check the star there should be a plastic spacer between the reflector and the star which centers the reflector. If that's missing for whatever reason, that's the ENTIRE problem. I'll try to remember to take a pic when I get home, of one to show you what I mean. But it will take up the space and press the emitter firmly against the case as well as keep it centered.
    There is a plastic spacer but in my opinion that is only there to help keep the star centered. When I sit the reflector on the emitter board it doesn't look like it will press hard enough on the board to guarantee a good thermal contact but that's just my opinion. I'd feel better if the board wasn't so loose. Now if I can find another small O-ring to sit on top of the reflector it might press on the board more. I still want to make sure there is a decent amount of thermal bonding. The whole purpose of thermal glue is eliminate air pockets between the contact surfaces. You don't really need it though if the the contact between the two surfaces are clean and tight enough not to move. Still, I think adding a bit of thermal glue will raise the emitter board just enough to make contact with the reflector more sure. It's either going to improve the over-all performance of the lamp or it won't. I figure it's worth a shot if it does.

  10. #10
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    The spacer is there for that purpose (centering everything) but also there to space the reflector off the star to prevent shorting. aluminum reflector rubbing through sealing layer of star and exposing raw copper contacts and risk of too much solder for wires causing contact with the reflector. Obviously in your case its not doing what it needs to do or machining tolerance is too far off and not making up the space.

    Glue as im thinking your referring to is epoxy which means no longer able to remove the star. Paste does the same thing (mild adhesive properties) for thermal transfer and using a decent amount will do what you want, but it wont permanently bond the star to the case. If there is no paste, that's a promise it will help. No one can argue that. Unless that star is soldered to the case, the only way to get proper thermal transfer is via paste.

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