MagicShine P7 Beamshot Thread- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    MagicShine P7 Beamshot Thread

    Another MS thread, But this one has beamshots with comparisons to other known lights. I own the MS P7, Dinotte 400L, and an upgraded Minewt with a P4 LED.

    All batteries were fully charged, and lights were on a max of 30 seconds to get them positioned prior to taking pics. I commute with these lights more than night MTB, so these are the shots I took (plus it would take me an hour drive to get anywhere were there is a trail to take singletrack shots with).

    Camera Setup -
    Canon 30d, 24-105 F4L IS
    Outdoor shots
    (MF, IS off), 100 ISO, F4, FL WB, 2 sec shutter.

    Control shot - Ambient street light


    Lights aimed ~ 75 feet away (lamp post is ~ 130 feet away)

    Niterider X2 on high


    400L on high


    MS on high


    400L and MS both on high same focus point



    Indoor shots:
    Wall is a offwhite / brownish tint
    Distance is about 5 feet
    Light held directly above the lens
    Lens 24-105 F4L
    (MF, IS off), 100 ISO, F4, FL WB, 1/50 sec shutter.

    Minewt X2


    400L on Med


    400L on High


    MS on high


    Camera Settings
    Appeture Priority F4,

    400L on High 1/100th sec


    MS on High 1/125th sec



    Lens 10-22 @ 10mm
    F4, 1/50th sec,

    400L on high


    MS on high


    Impressions

    I won't bore you with the UI details or anything else that has already been spoken about on here and CPF. As you can see, and are probably already aware, the P7 is a wide light. The throw is actually just fine if you compare it to the 400L, But with the P7, you get a lot of spill.... enough so that you can pretty nicely see whats in front of you. The combination of the 400L and the MS is really nice... focused throw and lots-o-spill.

    Brightness
    The non-scientific way I determine if one light is brighter than the next is my camera's light meter. The problem is, camera light meters have pretty big steps.

    The camera says that the Minewt X2 @ F4 comes up with 1/50 sec for the shutter. So if we say that the X2 is accurately rated at 150 lumens we have a baseline.

    The 400L on high is 1/100 sec or roughly 300 lumens (1/2 the shutter speed, 2x the light)

    The MS on high is 1/125 sec, or roughly 375 lumens

    Now if the X2 is say 180-200 lumens then the lights would be 200/400/500 respectively... but I really have no real idea of how bright these lights are in terms of acual lumens.

    Spread
    The last two shots don't show the light spill even though the lights are a meer 5 feet from the wall. I had to swap to the 10-22 because at 24mm, most of the light "spill" was out of the frame. At 10mm (16mm with the crop factor) you can see that the MS has an equally bright center spot.... only its much bigger. The MS also has a much larger secondary halo of light surrounding the center spot.

    Hope this helps prospective buyers. LMK if I can answer any questions. Feel free to post more beamshots or comparisons.

  2. #2
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    Yup as I stated before. the light is very bright as a friend I ride with bought one, and he also went over the bars a couple days ago on a ride and the bike bounced a few times off the handle bars etc, and the light survived it no problem...just a small scratch on the top and that was it...for the money, this light is fantastic.

  3. #3
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    Hey Hiroshima, just wanted to thank you for taking the time to take the beamshots.

  4. #4
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    The first series of photos ( I feel ) shows just how well the MS out-shines the competition. Even though the Dinotte has far better quality there are a lot of people out there willing to sacrifice quality over sheer output. That might not be such a bad idea seeing that you can buy three MS's for the cost of one 400L.

  5. #5
    billysorton
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    Found this beamshot page too.......http://fonarevka.lux-rc.com/, I really like the beam pattern of the Magicshine. Check out Road and Road 2 shots for different bike angles, very cool!

  6. #6
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    I received a MS light from Geoman today. Shipped earlier than expected and arrived fast. Thank you Geoman!

    I put the battery on the charger only to have it indicate a full charge after a few minutes. I was concerned that there might be a problem with the battery or charger. NOT! Turned it on to Hi, placed it in front of a small fan and let it run. 3 hrs 15 mins later the switch light went from green to red to indicate the low battery. Put it back on the charger and had it ready to go in 4.5 hrs.

    The light from Geoman now has Hi, Med, Low, fast flash, slow flash, off. To get from Med back to Hi, you have to cycle through all of the other settings (including off), or hold the switch for 1.5 seconds to turn off and the next click turns it on to Hi.

    I mounted it on the bar and used my mount with 2 DiNotte 200L's on the helmet and went for a quick 3 mile ride on singletrack. I had plenty of light with this combination. The MS light would also work on the DiNotte 200L helmet mount.

    The MS is a nice light and for the $'s, I would definitely recommend it after my brief use.

    As others have stated it is no where near 900 lumens (few lights seem to be as advertised), but it is bright. My two 200L setup appears just as bright with a little more punch. The MS has more spill and was great on the bar.

    For the cost, an MS on the bar and one on the helmet would be a good way to get into night riding and you won't need to upgrade to brighter lights later.
    Last edited by gmcttr; 09-12-2009 at 08:14 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr
    My two 200L setup appears just as bright with a little more punch.
    I would generally concur with that statement, but add that the center bright spot is about the same brightness intensity between the two lights, but the spill on the MS is way wider.

    I also agree that the 400L/ (2) 200L has a *bit* more throw.... but just.

    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr
    *snip*...and you won't need to upgrade to brighter lights later.
    Aw, c'mon. That statement is just plain crazy-talk. The day people stop upgrading, is the day they die or run out of money

  8. #8
    GeoMan
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr
    I received a MS light from Geoman today. Shipped earlier than expected and arrived fast. Thank you Geoman!

    I put the battery on the charger only to have it indicate a full charge after a few minutes. I was concerned that there might be a problem with the battery or charger. NOT! Turned it on to Hi, placed it in front of a small fan and let it run. 3 hrs 15 mins later the switch light went from green to red to indicate the low battery. Put it back on the charger and had it ready to go in 4.5 hrs.

    The light from Geoman now has Hi, Med, Low, fast flash, slow flash, off. To get from Med back to Hi, you have to cycle through all of the other settings (including off), or hold the switch for 1.5 seconds to turn off and the next click turns it on to Hi.

    I mounted it on the bar and used my mount with 2 DiNotte 200L's on the helmet and went for a quick 3 mile ride on singletrack. I had plenty of light with this combination. The MS light would also work on the DiNotte 200L helmet mount.

    The MS is a nice light and for the $'s, I would definitely recommend it after my brief use.

    As others have stated it is no where near 900 lumens (few lights seem to be as advertised), but it is bright. My two 200L setup appears just as bright with a little more punch. The MS has more spill and was great on the bar.

    For the cost, an MS on the bar and one on the helmet would be a good way to get into night riding and you won't need to upgrade to brighter lights later.
    Thanks for the input and thank you for the mention. We appreciate it!

    Geo
    GeoMan
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    www.geomangear.com

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by hiroshima
    Aw, c'mon. That statement is just plain crazy-talk. The day people stop upgrading, is the day they die or run out of money
    I don't know about crazy, but it was pretty stupid.

  10. #10
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    I got my Magicshine this weekend. I ride with guys who have $400 LED systems, they are going to be mad when I ride with them this week. I really don't see a whole lot of compromise in this light. Maybe there will be some longevity problem, but based on what the light head looks like, I doubt it.

    And thanks to GeoMan, quick ship and notification of when it would be shipping - expect a bunch o' orders from CT shortly... :-D

    John

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch
    I got my Magicshine this weekend. I ride with guys who have $400 LED systems, they are going to be mad when I ride with them this week. I really don't see a whole lot of compromise in this light. Maybe there will be some longevity problem, but based on what the light head looks like, I doubt it.

    And thanks to GeoMan, quick ship and notification of when it would be shipping - expect a bunch o' orders from CT shortly... :-D

    John
    I agree! Granted, I only have used Halogen systems, but this light for the money, is going to be VERY HARD TO BEAT! Even the Flashlight systems aren't really any cheaper when the batteries/ charger are added all together.

    I think the flash setting is just a little TO FAST though IMO. I was happy to receive the newest version though. Also, does everyone else's turn on right away when you plug the battery in? Just want to make sure that is "Normal" for this light.

    I just can't wait for the helmet mounts! Just hope s/h won't be to much. Then on to the trail! Plan on using the MS on the helmet and a Night Rider Classic Plus on the bars when I ride with my buddy since he doesn't have a light setup yet. Otherwise, 2 MS's for me!

    Thank you again Geo!
    Chris

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96m2comp
    Also, does everyone else's turn on right away when you plug the battery in? Just want to make sure that is "Normal" for this light.
    Yes, the light turns on when you plug it in. You learn pretty quickly not to be looking at it.

  13. #13
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    I made a helmet mount.

    I'll have to get some pics up later, but I took a 4" length of plastic tube, cut some of the bottom out so that the uncut parts of the tube would stick into the vents on my wife's helmet. The MS light attaches to the plastic tubing the same as it would to a handlebar and I put an elastic band around the tubing and inside the helmet. Its solid, easy and light (I drilled as many holes as I dared into the plastic tubing).

    John

  14. #14
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    Here's the helmet mount I made, not the most elegant thing but I'll go through some revisions after I get feedback from my wife on how she likes night riding. The last light I put on her helmet I had a strap lock thing that sat on the front of the helmet. She hated the weight and felt like it was pulling her helmet forward. I made this one to sit on top of her helmet, which she seems to like so far.

    I used a piece of pipe I had in the basement and the diameter is too large, a smaller diameter pipe would mean the light wouldn't sit up so high. I'm mostly concerned with her hitting it on a low branch as we ride, but I doubt that will be a problem for her.







    It's really solid and doesn't move at all on its own.
    John

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch
    Here's the helmet mount I made, not the most elegant thing... It's really solid and doesn't move at all on its own.
    John
    John,

    Looks pretty good for a first run! I was actually thinking of something similar today. I wondered about heating the PVC pipe along the bottom to fit on the helmet.

    As for attaching it to the helmet, what about shortening each end of it and running a strap through the pipe and inside the helmet? Just a crazy thought!

    T.Y!
    Chris

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch
    I used a piece of pipe I had in the basement and the diameter is too large, a smaller diameter pipe would mean the light wouldn't sit up so high. I'm mostly concerned with her hitting it on a low branch as we ride, but I doubt that will be a problem for her.

    John, curious if you tried just mounting the light on the helmet itself, on the cross-member right in front of the light in the photos? This would make it a good bit lower.

  17. #17
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    Adjustability

    Quote Originally Posted by fightnut
    John, curious if you tried just mounting the light on the helmet itself, on the cross-member right in front of the light in the photos? This would make it a good bit lower.
    That would probably work, although you wouldn't be able to adjust it up or down.

    John

  18. #18
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    Yep

    Quote Originally Posted by 96m2comp
    John,

    Looks pretty good for a first run! I was actually thinking of something similar today. I wondered about heating the PVC pipe along the bottom to fit on the helmet.

    As for attaching it to the helmet, what about shortening each end of it and running a strap through the pipe and inside the helmet? Just a crazy thought!

    T.Y!
    Chris
    I planned on using a velcro strap I have laying around here somewhere, but I couldn't find it, I went quick and dirty with the elastic band - we went for a night ride 30 minutes after I started making this, so definitely quick.

    I've tried melting plastic to get it to form to a helmet - nasty stuff - hard to get it soft and pliable while not burning your hands and wrecking your helmet...

    John

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch
    I've tried melting plastic to get it to form to a helmet - nasty stuff - hard to get it soft and pliable while not burning your hands and wrecking your helmet... John
    I gave it a shot this evening melting a 1/2" pvc pipe. Didn't turn out to bad, just can't seem to get the light tight enough to the helmet!!! Also, I tried the MS with one of my Night Rider classics, and I just don't think I will be happy with that setup! So I am probably going to run the MS on the bars and my L-mini I on my helmet when riding with my wife or buddy.

    Chris

  20. #20
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    tubes

    Quote Originally Posted by 96m2comp
    I gave it a shot this evening melting a 1/2" pvc pipe. Didn't turn out to bad, just can't seem to get the light tight enough to the helmet!!!
    I glued a piece of tube to the bottom of the pipe to give it some friction against the helmet.

    I also have a helmet mount with straps that would work easily as well (I don't remember what kind it is), but I think it will put weight on the front of the helmet and my wife doesn't like that pressure on the front of her helmet.

    John

  21. #21
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    Jars of Clay

    Quote Originally Posted by 96m2comp
    I gave it a shot this evening melting a 1/2" pvc pipe. Didn't turn out to bad, just can't seem to get the light tight enough to the helmet!!!
    Not sure if you browse the DIY Lights section, but someone there used FIMO clay to manufacture a bracket.
    Slow-core. -.. .-. .. -. -.- .... --- -- . -... .-. . .--

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by notaknob
    Not sure if you browse the DIY Lights section, but someone there used FIMO clay to manufacture a bracket.
    I have seen that, but thank you for the heads up!

    I should clarify, where I want to mount the light, towards the front of the helmet, I can't get it very tight! But more in the center, it is fine. I know it is CRAZY thinking, but if I can have the overall height just even 1" shorter, there is that slim chance I may JUST miss that one branch compared to the light being in the center of the helmet! lol

    I need a slightly longer pump strap. One that has a plastic "ring" to get the strap a little tighter.

    Chris

  23. #23
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    Just got my Magic Shine yesterday, charged it up and took it out last night. I was very impressed with the light. And so was the people who I was riding with. I had my old Black Burn light on my helmet and that wasn't putting enough light to see into the turns so I know I'm going to order another MS for my helmet and be all set.
    Oh just wanted to say GeoMan got the light to me very fast.

  24. #24
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    geoman now has the helmet mount up on his site for $9.99. i have not tired it yet, but it looks like my minewt mini helmet mount would also work.

  25. #25
    How do I do that?
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    Yup, ordered it a few hours ago. I doubt it'll make it across to AZ by manana but I guess I'll get to try it out early next week. Can't wait.

    Geoman sent me the 'order shipped' email 50 minutes after the order was placed, talk about speed

  26. #26
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    I went on a 1.5 hour ride in the dark with my wife last night, she had the MS on and I had my Trailtech HID. Again, little to no difference in the light output between the two systems. No problems to report - all worked great. My wife loved it... Who knows about longevity, but for now it seems to be a really good option.

    John

  27. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr
    I received a MS light from Geoman today. Shipped earlier than expected and arrived fast. Thank you Geoman!

    I put the battery on the charger only to have it indicate a full charge after a few minutes. I was concerned that there might be a problem with the battery or charger. NOT! Turned it on to Hi, placed it in front of a small fan and let it run. 3 hrs 15 mins later the switch light went from green to red to indicate the low battery. Put it back on the charger and had it ready to go in 4.5 hrs.

    The light from Geoman now has Hi, Med, Low, fast flash, slow flash, off. To get from Med back to Hi, you have to cycle through all of the other settings (including off), or hold the switch for 1.5 seconds to turn off and the next click turns it on to Hi.

    I mounted it on the bar and used my mount with 2 DiNotte 200L's on the helmet and went for a quick 3 mile ride on singletrack. I had plenty of light with this combination. The MS light would also work on the DiNotte 200L helmet mount.

    The MS is a nice light and for the $'s, I would definitely recommend it after my brief use.

    As others have stated it is no where near 900 lumens (few lights seem to be as advertised), but it is bright. My two 200L setup appears just as bright with a little more punch. The MS has more spill and was great on the bar.
    I am new here. Would you please tell me if Geoman sells ready made MS, modded of course, and for how much (price)?
    Also, where do you get the lights you use on your helmet, and how much do they go for? I understand that you use 2 of them, right?l
    Thanks in advance for the anwers!

  28. #28
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    Here is the GeoManGear site. The Magicshine light he sells is finished product spec'd by the manufacturer to incorporate several improvements suggested by Geoman.

    DiNotte is a forum sponser and normally has a banner add at the top of this page. You can check their site for options and pricing.

  29. #29

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    Thanks.

  30. #30
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    Are they selling it with a helmet mount yet or still separate?

  31. #31
    GeoMan
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    Quote Originally Posted by Playdeep
    Are they selling it with a helmet mount yet or still separate?
    Separate. Some folks don't want a helmet mount so we give them the option...

    Geo
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  32. #32
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    Received one of the Magicshine 9000's from geoman yesterday and compared it to my Stella 200L. The Stella 200L gets drowned out. Going to send the stella back and get another 9000. Can't wait to give these things the true test in 24 hours of moab

  33. #33
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    I haven't seen much info about people modifying the MagicShine lights, so I'll post some beamshots here. The problem with the MagicShine light is that the beam very narrow, consisting of a fairly small spot (smaller than 15 degrees) with a very much wider area of spill light. The spot is too narrow for trail riding IMO, though it makes the light look very bright.

    Hence the need for modification. Two lenses were ordered from led-tech.de, one with a 15 degree and another with 25 degrees beam. Some material needed to be filed off the lenses, but the result was quite nice. The pictures are taken from the same place at the same time with the same exposure values, but without a tripod so the picture angle varies a little and the sharpness is not that good. There is more light to the eyes in reality than what the pictures show.

    Handlebar light (25 degree lens)


    Head light (15 degree lens)


    Both lights (25 degree + 15 degree).


    Here is another take at it and the recipe for my modifications. (I tried that link in Google Translate and the result had entertainment value, but not much else).
    Last edited by Outsider; 09-26-2009 at 11:47 PM.

  34. #34
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    Hmmm I was hoping two lights would be enough for trail riding, I am not the type to try to customize the lights myself.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Playdeep
    Hmmm I was hoping two lights would be enough for trail riding, I am not the type to try to customize the lights myself.
    They are.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outsider
    The problem with the MagicShine light is that the beam very narrow, consisting of a fairly small spot (smaller than 15 degrees) with a very much wider area of spill light. The spot is too narrow for trail riding IMO, though it makes the light look very bright.
    When mine first arrived, I was shining it around my apartment and at first I have to say that I was kinda disappointed because it did appear to be a very small, tight hotspot.
    So I was hoping that once I got outside with it and into the woods it would look better, and it definitely did!
    I really didn't notice it being a tight spot anymore, it worked really well, it just lights up everything.
    Now granted, I ride IN the woods, but I think if I was riding in desert or on the road (essentially any place where the light is shining on a flat surface, like the wall), it would still look like a narrow spot.

    But I was quite happy with it IN the woods.

    Now with that said, those photos of the 25 degree optic do look good!
    I'm going to be getting a second light for my bars and may consider that mod for that one.
    Is there a sku# for that lense?

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Playdeep
    Hmmm I was hoping two lights would be enough for trail riding, I am not the type to try to customize the lights myself.
    Believe me, you could really get by with ONE of these lights (if it's on your helmet). If you have two, you will have MORE then enough light for riding trails.

    I rode the other night with one on my helmet and a zooming flood to throw flashlight on my bars (set at full flood mode). About 20 minutes into the ride, while we were waiting for someone to repair a flat, I switched the MS down to medium to conserve the battery, and realized that even that was plenty of light so I left it on medium for most of the rest of the ride, only going to high on occasion.

    I do plan to get a second magicshine for my bars to replace the flashlight (because I like having a light on helmet AND bars, and the MS has a longer run time then the flashlight), but will most likely ride with both of them on medium because that will be plenty of light.

    Oh, and as far as modding it, although the beam shots look good with that 25 degree optic that Outsider is talking about, I have to disagree with him when he says the light is too narrow for trail riding, I really think it works fine as-is. The mod is nice, but I wouldn't say it's a must.
    Last edited by fightnut; 09-26-2009 at 10:29 AM.

  38. #38
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    I did try both lights without modifications and I still think the beam is unnecessarily narrow, but I realize some people like it as it is. For me, riding mainly in the forest with fairly tight and twisty singletrack, I found that the narrow beam created too much of a tunnel in the darkness, with the bright spot(s) taking all attention. This actually made me take a wrong turn at a very familiar trail, since I did not take in enough of the surroundings. In addition, in some places you don't see enough of the trail with only one or two fairly narrow spots, making tight turns harder. I also think that in the circumstances when you need all light you can get, mainly when its wet or raining (November is nearing rapidly), the bright narrow spot will be more of a problem. YMMV, though.

    The head light modification does not seem that necessary, but the handlebar flood light is really nice IMO. I think that a light with a tight spot is less useful in a handlebar light, since it sometimes moves from place to place fairly quickly. The lenses were ordered from Germany.

  39. #39
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    Outsider, where were yours mounted?

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by fightnut
    Outsider, where were yours mounted?
    The 25-degree light was mounted on the handlebar and the 15-degree light on the helmet. A handlebar light, as opposed to a head light, creates shadows where you can see them, thus giving a better 3-d perspective.

    I am used to a wider beam, having used a 20 W Silva orienteering light until now, so that may affect my preferences.

  41. #41
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    Outsider, how did you mount those lenses? Do they just sit on top of the LED, being pressed down by the bezel/glass lense? Or did you somehow fixed/glued them on the plastic washer that surrounds P7 LED?

    On which part of the lense did you need to perform the filing?

    TIA

  42. #42
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    The front of the lens was filed down just enough to make it fit into the housing, the diameter was about 1 mm to large. It should be a tight fit, but not so tight that it gets stuck. The support wings at the base of the lens should be filed down as well. With these modifications the lens fits nicely into the body. Everything is held together by adding an extra O-ring, dimensions about 39x2 mm, between the lens/body and the outer glass and cap. Very straightforward with no glue. The top picture in this post on another forum shows the lenses, original on the top row and the modified ones below. The third picture from the top also shows why the lenses need to be modified, since the focus point is not correct with the original ones.

    The actual lenses were quite cheap and it might be a good idea to order several with different angles to experiment. Led-tech.de has three different kinds: 15, 20 and 25 degrees.

    Just for clarity's sake, making the beam wider also makes the light seem less bright, since it is spread onto a larger area. I would say that the 15-degree is as bright as the original one, with less spill light and a slightly larger bright spot. The 25-degree light clearly looks less bright, since the light is spread onto a much larger area, but as a near light it works very well. I think my third picture shows that the light is actually very balanced with this combination.
    Last edited by Outsider; 09-26-2009 at 11:47 PM.

  43. #43
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    More Magicshine beamshots

    I learned of the MTBR approved settings for taking beam shots (ISO 100, 6 s, f4, WB Daylight) and went outside to take another set of beamshots. The trail starts just outside my backdoor so it was not a big deal. I didn't manage to aim the head light at exactly the same spot every time, so there are some small differences.

    Control shot (it was dark)


    Silva 478 20 W halogen (note that the light looks whiter to the eye)


    Handlebar light (25 degrees)


    Head light (15 degrees)


    Both lights (25 + 15 degrees)


    Head light with original reflector


    Handlebar light (25 degrees) + head light with original reflector

  44. #44
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    the 25 deg. lens looks impressive in the pics.

  45. #45
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    My impression

    I am new to night riding and after doing research I picked up a Magicshine. and tried it out on a ride last week. I have the single MS stock mounted on the handle bar. My ride is a combination of double and single track which I know very well. I felt the single MS on my bar wasn't enough light to ride all out with and thought the beam too narrow. So I started to look for a suitable helmet light.

    The biggest problem I have is all the information here. You go in one direction then read something new and get other ideas. To help fill in the MS I decided to try a Romisen RC-N3 for my helmet. Then I poke around geoman's web site and see an 18° insert for the MS. Now I read this thread.

    If the MS and Rominsen combination doesn't work out I was planning on building a light based on this thread http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...=Romisen+RC-N3. This solution priced out almost twice the MS. My fall back now is a MS with a 25° reflector for the handle bars and a standard MS for the helmet. Boy this light thing eats time and can be expensive..

  46. #46
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    Did my first night ride with the MS900 on Saturday night. Two slightly negative comments...I used Geoman's helmet mount and did have to reach up and adjust the light angle upward from time to time, as it seemed to vibrate down slowly. Also, and this isn't unique to the the ms900, but maybe more pronounced because of the brightness, is the high angle of the helmet mount washes out all shadows so it's hard to see surface contour...my buddy riding behind me with his old handlelbar mount nightsun actually made it easier to see ruts and holes... will probably move the MS900 to the bars and run a less bright spot on my helmet.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by xtree
    Then I poke around geoman's web site and see an 18° insert for the MS.
    Where is that 18° insert at geomans website? i didn't find it!
    Can you post a link please

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffinsj
    Did my first night ride with the MS900 on Saturday night. Two slightly negative comments...I used Geoman's helmet mount and did have to reach up and adjust the light angle upward from time to time, as it seemed to vibrate down slowly. Also, and this isn't unique to the the ms900, but maybe more pronounced because of the brightness, is the high angle of the helmet mount washes out all shadows so it's hard to see surface contour...my buddy riding behind me with his old handlelbar mount nightsun actually made it easier to see ruts and holes... will probably move the MS900 to the bars and run a less bright spot on my helmet.
    Sounds like you could just run a second MS on low on the helmet. At these prices, that seems like the best option.

    I have always been a fan of running both handlebar and helmet, dating back to my mid 90's setup, it just gives better perspective, with the ability to look ahead of your handlebar light.

  49. #49
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    Perhaps I'm a bit off here, but I don't expect to ride as fast with a light at night as I do during the day. I am riding with a HID right now, which has TONS more light than the halogen lights I've used in the past - plenty of light to ride pretty fast, but still not as fast as I can during the day.

    I have fun riding at night, that is all.

    John

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffinsj
    Also, and this isn't unique to the the ms900, but maybe more pronounced because of the brightness, is the high angle of the helmet mount washes out all shadows so it's hard to see surface contour...my buddy riding behind me with his old handlelbar mount nightsun actually made it easier to see ruts and holes... will probably move the MS900 to the bars and run a less bright spot on my helmet.
    I like having the brighter, better throwing light on the helmet, and a more floody light on the bars.
    I'm with Wambat, I'd just get a second MS and switch one to medium if you want less light.
    That's the route I'm going anyway.

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by xtree
    Then I poke around geoman's web site and see an 18° insert for the MS. Now I read this thread.
    Pretty sure the only 18 degree lens available there is for the Lupine Wilma.

  52. #52
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    Praise

    I am posting up in several different MS threads because I believe the product and seller deserve it.

    A little different perspective on the same theme. I have been night riding in and around Arizona since '94. Summer is a have to, winter the days are short. Had lights in this order: Nite Rider old halogen,(had constant problems with the plug into the head) Nite Rider HID Blowtorch,(wires came apart at battery bottle and head, charging always a problem), Nite Rider Trail Rat(won in raffle, good for slow road) L & M Vega, Stella (good, good-not bright enough on their own). Had Batteries Plus (great people) re-build the Niter Rider bottle battery on the halogen three times, HID twice. Halogen died late nineties, HID about a year ago. Rode the last six or so with Blowtorch on bars and L & M on helmet. Hid died forever. L & M could not cut it on it's own(for me).

    I have been laid off twice in last six years and had to make do. My last night ride was miserable with the Stella on the helmet only. Had to start looking for another bar light. New was completely out of range so used was my only option. No warranty, no idea of cycles on battery. Good HID used anywhere from $100 to $200. Reviews on the lights that I had access to were dismal.

    Then I found this site and the beginning of MS and Geoman. Spent time reading (A LOT) the threads here about the different lights and the MS.

    I received my TWO lights and helmet mount from Geoman yesterday. GREAT SERVICE. I was told he was out of stock, would ship in four to five days, received them in three days! Geoman, I ordered one helmet mount you sent two. I will send you another $9.99. Both lights showed green charge out of the box. Mounted them up went for a short trail ride and all I can say is "WOW".

    The lights may not have the shine and polish of Lupine and a few others but for my budget, I am back to work with two kids in college, mom lives with us, THESE fit my budget.

    If something happens to the lights I have enough faith in Geoman after reading the threads, reading his comments and now experiencing his service he will stand behind the products. I can not say this about the used lights I was preparing to buy.

    I know time will tell but, for now I am riding securely and having fun at night again.

    Thx for reading,

    John
    Lurkers Unite! Never mind....

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    Quote Originally Posted by circusubet
    I am posting up in several different MS threads because I believe the product and seller deserve it.

    A little different perspective on the same theme. I have been night riding in and around Arizona since '94. Summer is a have to, winter the days are short. Had lights in this order: Nite Rider old halogen,(had constant problems with the plug into the head) Nite Rider HID Blowtorch,(wires came apart at battery bottle and head, charging always a problem), Nite Rider Trail Rat(won in raffle, good for slow road) L & M Vega, Stella (good, good-not bright enough on their own). Had Batteries Plus (great people) re-build the Niter Rider bottle battery on the halogen three times, HID twice. Halogen died late nineties, HID about a year ago. Rode the last six or so with Blowtorch on bars and L & M on helmet. Hid died forever. L & M could not cut it on it's own(for me).

    I have been laid off twice in last six years and had to make do. My last night ride was miserable with the Stella on the helmet only. Had to start looking for another bar light. New was completely out of range so used was my only option. No warranty, no idea of cycles on battery. Good HID used anywhere from $100 to $200. Reviews on the lights that I had access to were dismal.

    Then I found this site and the beginning of MS and Geoman. Spent time reading (A LOT) the threads here about the different lights and the MS.

    I received my TWO lights and helmet mount from Geoman yesterday. GREAT SERVICE. I was told he was out of stock, would ship in four to five days, received them in three days! Geoman, I ordered one helmet mount you sent two. I will send you another $9.99. Both lights showed green charge out of the box. Mounted them up went for a short trail ride and all I can say is "WOW".

    The lights may not have the shine and polish of Lupine and a few others but for my budget, I am back to work with two kids in college, mom lives with us, THESE fit my budget.

    If something happens to the lights I have enough faith in Geoman after reading the threads, reading his comments and now experiencing his service he will stand behind the products. I can not say this about the used lights I was preparing to buy.

    I know time will tell but, for now I am riding securely and having fun at night again.

    Thx for reading,

    John
    John, I totally agree, I have been running these lights for the last month or two and the output is phenomenal for the price. I just received the Y-cable splitter from Geoman on Saturday so I can run 2 lightheads on the bars off a single battery, total weight less than 1 pound runtime over 90 mins with both on high. I also have the helmet mount so I can have a 3rd lighthead on the helmet, it's amazing how fast you can ride technical singletrack with this combo. I'm in AZ as well so have been doing a ton of 4.30am rides to beat the heat. Like you I have tried some of the other big name lights and similarly all have had their issues, I guess the difference is if I want an additional battery it costs less than $40 for a Magicshine. Cheers

  54. #54
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    Outsider,

    Can you provide links to the acutal optics please? I went to that website, hit the UK button so I could read it, and still could not find the culminators.

    Also, it looks like you had the lights aimed differently on your beamshots. The spot you had aimed way out, and the 25deg you had aimed (what looked like) about 25 feet in front of your wheel.

    Can you get shots with the same aim-point?

    Also, I have a few of thes culminators at home. Did you use the front filter to get your 15/25 degree spread (the front filter would have two tabs that would fit inside the slots on the plastic culminator).

    Here is what I have at home and what I am talking about:
    http://litemania.com/front/php/produ...isplay_group=1


    Thanks for your test shots and your ideas. The 25 deg looks about perfect for a nice bar mounted flood.

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  56. #56
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    Hiroshima,

    I mentioned that I unfortunately did not get the (spot) lights aimed exactly at the same place. It was, however, a conscious decision to aim the 25° light closer, since that is the entire point of a wide beam flood light.

    The lenses you linked to looked very similar to the ones I ordered, though I could not see the 25° lens there. I have the following lenses:

    15°
    25°
    The 20° front filter would also be interesting.

  57. #57
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    I ride with one Magicshine on the bars and one on the helmet.

    The stock beam works very well for me on the helmet... though it's too tight for the bars. Until I find a proper diffuser, I simply put 1 or 2 strips of scotch tape over the lens. It works beautifully... it almost totally obliterates and diffuses the spot. Now it's very floody. Perfect (and cheap). And it didn't appear to induce any noticeable increase in heat at all.

    Also... by the way I've been getting 3:20 to 3:25 run times on high. (I got mine abut 6 weeks ago. they're 3-mode with the short cord)

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outsider
    Hiroshima,

    I mentioned that I unfortunately did not get the (spot) lights aimed exactly at the same place. It was, however, a conscious decision to aim the 25° light closer, since that is the entire point of a wide beam flood light.

    The lenses you linked to looked very similar to the ones I ordered, though I could not see the 25° lens there. I have the following lenses:

    15°
    25°
    The 20° front filter would also be interesting.

    Sweet, thanks. Sorry, did not mean to come off as rude.

    I think I have the 15 degree culminator at home (which is what you are using) and the only downside I see is that I can see the LED dies.

    Any impression if the culminator is more efficient than the stock reflector? (i.e. do you think there is less light loss when using the culminator vs the reflector?)

    Thanks again for the links.

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by hiroshima
    Sweet, thanks. Sorry, did not mean to come off as rude.

    I think I have the 15 degree culminator at home (which is what you are using) and the only downside I see is that I can see the LED dies.

    Any impression if the culminator is more efficient than the stock reflector? (i.e. do you think there is less light loss when using the culminator vs the reflector?)

    Thanks again for the links.
    The 15° lens needs to be slightly modified to fit into the lamp housing in order to get rid of the LED die pattern. Just file of some part of the front part, just enough so that it fits into the lamp housing. Then file of the support wings at the back of the lens to get the lens to fit directly around the LED. That way you should get a fairly even 15° beam, as seen in the 4th picture from the top in this post (not my picture). I don't think there is any noticeable difference in the light loss between this lens and the original reflector.

  60. #60
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    good idea with the scotch tape.

  61. #61
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    hi, here is a direct comparison of the lupine tesla and the DX lamp sku.25149 (camera settings):

    Quote Originally Posted by Siam
    on mtb-news.de

    Tesla:




    vs. DX-Klon::





    Alle Lampen auf 100 %!!!

    Gruß
    Tomas

  62. #62
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    Interesting. The difference seems be be quite small, though the Testla does have a slightly longer beam hotspot.

  63. #63
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    it also seems as if the tesla was pointed a little bit more downwards, so the difference is probably really quite marginal if at all:


  64. #64
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    thinking of buying one, hows everyone finding the battery life in their magicshine's? is it lasting as long as the description says?

    cheers

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected]
    thinking of buying one, hows everyone finding the battery life in their magicshine's? is it lasting as long as the description says?

    cheers

    Yes.

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by circusubet
    I am posting up in several different MS threads because I believe the product and seller deserve it.

    A little different perspective on the same theme. I have been night riding in and around Arizona since '94. Summer is a have to, winter the days are short. Had lights in this order: Nite Rider old halogen,(had constant problems with the plug into the head) Nite Rider HID Blowtorch,(wires came apart at battery bottle and head, charging always a problem), Nite Rider Trail Rat(won in raffle, good for slow road) L & M Vega, Stella (good, good-not bright enough on their own). Had Batteries Plus (great people) re-build the Niter Rider bottle battery on the halogen three times, HID twice. Halogen died late nineties, HID about a year ago. Rode the last six or so with Blowtorch on bars and L & M on helmet. Hid died forever. L & M could not cut it on it's own(for me).

    I have been laid off twice in last six years and had to make do. My last night ride was miserable with the Stella on the helmet only. Had to start looking for another bar light. New was completely out of range so used was my only option. No warranty, no idea of cycles on battery. Good HID used anywhere from $100 to $200. Reviews on the lights that I had access to were dismal.

    Then I found this site and the beginning of MS and Geoman. Spent time reading (A LOT) the threads here about the different lights and the MS.

    I received my TWO lights and helmet mount from Geoman yesterday. GREAT SERVICE. I was told he was out of stock, would ship in four to five days, received them in three days! Geoman, I ordered one helmet mount you sent two. I will send you another $9.99. Both lights showed green charge out of the box. Mounted them up went for a short trail ride and all I can say is "WOW".

    The lights may not have the shine and polish of Lupine and a few others but for my budget, I am back to work with two kids in college, mom lives with us, THESE fit my budget.

    If something happens to the lights I have enough faith in Geoman after reading the threads, reading his comments and now experiencing his service he will stand behind the products. I can not say this about the used lights I was preparing to buy.

    I know time will tell but, for now I am riding securely and having fun at night again.

    Thx for reading,

    John
    Good stuff.

    Thanks for sharing, John.

    Geo
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  67. #67
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    I do alot of commuting at night as well currently i juss have a cateye hl 520 i use. that light doesnt really light up the road its mainly a light for cars jus to see you and i would like to see in front of me. do you guys think the magic shine is over kill for commuting and nite riding on the road?

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by alphaqforever247
    I do alot of commuting at night as well currently i juss have a cateye hl 520 i use. that light doesnt really light up the road its mainly a light for cars jus to see you and i would like to see in front of me. do you guys think the magic shine is over kill for commuting and nite riding on the road?
    I just bought one for just that use. I have an old NT HID and I can use the extra light to be able to see further ahead to avoid debris, something not always possible with the NR.

  69. #69
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    Here is my beamshot. All images f4.5, 6 sec, ISO 200, auto white balance.

    For my eyes, the Niterider HID look brighter than on the image. More blue. Between Magicshine full and Magicshime mid setting in brightnest.


  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by alphaqforever247
    I do alot of commuting at night as well currently i juss have a cateye hl 520 i use. that light doesnt really light up the road its mainly a light for cars jus to see you and i would like to see in front of me. do you guys think the magic shine is over kill for commuting and nite riding on the road?
    I am going to run the MS on my bars and a Dinotte 400L on my helmet for my night commute. I think that amount of light is just right. Next year however, it will be BARELY enough light to see by

    Last year I ran a 400L and a Minewt X2 and thought it was almost enough, but not nearly enough in the rain ( we don't have snow here). I actually wanted more light last year.

    IMHO, ~ 1000 lumens is about perfect for dry conditions at 20-30mph speeds. I would love to have 2x that much in the rain. Once the roads get covered in water, you can't see for schmidt so you need more light.

  71. #71
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    How waterproof is the MS light? Will it stand up to rain?

    I agree that it will not be enough next year.I think double the light output will be standard on mid level lights.

  72. #72
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    Not sure re: waterproofness. Have not ridden in the rain yet. I did spray the head (while on) with my hose with a medium powered mist and it held up fine. Sprayed it off for a good minute. I am more concerned with the battery pack than the head

  73. #73
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    Got mine recently, big thanks to Geoman for accelerating the shipping! Finally put it on the bars tonight and rode around the backyard, very impressed!!

    I am going to get a small velcro strap as a safety measure to keep the battery pack secure, the wrapping method with the velcro flap works but there's not a lot of velcro contact. Looking forward to the first night ride with this on the bars and my Jet halogen 12W spot on my head. I'm used to just riding with the Jet on the helmet, so I'm sure there will be a big difference.

  74. #74
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    Trudo

    Out of curiosity, how far is the barn?

    Thx

    MB

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323
    Trudo

    Out of curiosity, how far is the barn?

    Thx

    MB
    About 60-70 feets

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by icycle
    Got mine recently, big thanks to Geoman for accelerating the shipping! Finally put it on the bars tonight and rode around the backyard, very impressed!!

    I am going to get a small velcro strap as a safety measure to keep the battery pack secure, the wrapping method with the velcro flap works but there's not a lot of velcro contact. Looking forward to the first night ride with this on the bars and my Jet halogen 12W spot on my head. I'm used to just riding with the Jet on the helmet, so I'm sure there will be a big difference.

    Our pleasure - thank you!

    Geo
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  77. #77
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    New question here. More Magicshine P7 LED Lightset Information

    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr
    I received a MS light from Geoman today. Shipped earlier than expected and arrived fast. Thank you Geoman!

    I put the battery on the charger only to have it indicate a full charge after a few minutes. I was concerned that there might be a problem with the battery or charger. NOT! Turned it on to Hi, placed it in front of a small fan and let it run. 3 hrs 15 mins later the switch light went from green to red to indicate the low battery. Put it back on the charger and had it ready to go in 4.5 hrs.

    The light from Geoman now has Hi, Med, Low, fast flash, slow flash, off. To get from Med back to Hi, you have to cycle through all of the other settings (including off), or hold the switch for 1.5 seconds to turn off and the next click turns it on to Hi.

    I mounted it on the bar and used my mount with 2 DiNotte 200L's on the helmet and went for a quick 3 mile ride on singletrack. I had plenty of light with this combination. The MS light would also work on the DiNotte 200L helmet mount.

    The MS is a nice light and for the $'s, I would definitely recommend it after my brief use.

    As others have stated it is no where near 900 lumens (few lights seem to be as advertised), but it is bright. My two 200L setup appears just as bright with a little more punch. The MS has more spill and was great on the bar.

    For the cost, an MS on the bar and one on the helmet would be a good way to get into night riding and you won't need to upgrade to brighter lights later.
    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyspoke
    I have one of the Magishine lights from Geoman. HOLY SMOKES it's bright. I used to run to dinotte 200l's....this is quite a bit brighter. I still run one dinotte on my helmet, but I can't really see it unless I look a different direction than the bars are pointing. For 89 bucks shipped, it's really a screaming deal. If I was getting a couple lights with a 200 budget, I'd look no further. Heck, even if I had DOUBLE to spend, I'd get the magicshines and use the rest for other stuff.
    Cool feedback; nice to hear Magicshine Led Lightset handily beats the Dinotte 200Lumen LED Lightset engine.

    Magicshine High Intensity LED Lightset based on the newly updated SSC-P7 Seoul Semiconductor quad core chip LED which typically produces 700lm when current is driven thru the LED chip at 2800mA with a forward voltage of 3.6V and able to produce 90 lumens per watt of energy consumed.

    Post generally discusses comparing the SSC-P7 based LED Lightset 666lumen (Magicshine) versus the SSC-P4 based LED Lightset 200lumen (Dinotte 200L).

    Parameters compared:

    Cost per lumen comparison
    battery run times comparison
    physical setup comparison
    physical configuration comparison
    mounting options comparison
    extending lightset run times comparison
    lithium ion battery chemistry options comparison
    LED Lightset beam quality comparisons hi/med/low intensities comparison
    LED Lightset specifications comparison
    Total Power in Watts generated by battery comparison
    Total Power consumed at full load per hour-- high intensity comparison
    Total Current consumed at full load power per hour -- high intensity comparison
    Total Current consumed at low load -- low intensity -- low intensity comparison
    Total current consumed to generate lumen of illumination comparison
    Total Power consumed at low illumination -- low intensity comparison
    How many hours at low power with rated battery pack -- low intensity comparison
    How many Lumens generated by LED Lamp at full power -- high intensity comparison
    How many watts consumed by lamp at full illumination -- high intensity comparison
    How many hours at high power with rated battery pack -- high intensity comparison
    How much current consumed by LED lamp at medium power -- medium intensity comparison
    How many watts consumed by LED lamp at medium power -- medium intensity comparison
    How many hours at medium power with rated battery pack -- medium intensity comparison
    Detailed indepth review on the SSC-P7 based LED Lightset 666lumen (Magicshine)
    regarding above line item parameters

    post has been revised to include all of the above information as of Oct 15 900am.

    read/review post information and comment on any of the above line item parameters above if you have any information to add, amplify, or clarify that would make it a better and more informative posting for the benefit of the forum community readers; as that is purpose of posting.
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Dinotte 200L-AA-S Bike Headlight is a basic solid entry level 200lumen lightset that uses conventional readily obtainable rechargeable/disposable "AA" batteries almost everywhere inexpensively.

    Dinotte 200L-AA-S Bike Headlight retails for approximately $150 that yields approximately 75cents per lumen which is a great deal for a great and well known reputable LED Lightset thrower/illuminator. (link provided for your reference if needed):

    http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...9_10000_201537

    The Magicshine MJ-808 retails for approximately $85 that yields approximately 12.8cents per lumen assuming approximately 666lumens, which is a great deal for a great throwing and illuminating LED Lightset that is giving the major light engine manufacturers a serious run for their money. (link provided for your reference if needed):

    http://www.geomangear.com/index.php?...38paikjv9i1732

    Even better still get an additional Magicshine LED Lightset, one for the helmet mount and one for the handlebar mount to double up on illumination; with one providing fixed illumination duties on the handlebars and the other one providing variable point to shoot flood/spill illumination on the helmet.:

    Now of course if one needed, wanted or desired to construct a "betty killer" illumination setup on a budget, one could always combo a third Magicshine on the handlebar and aim one far away down the road in the distance and one closer in front of the bicycle wheel so as to provide general flood illumination in front of the wheel as well as provide generally more dedicated far away illumination in the distance.

    An added advantage of such a "betty killer" configuration setup would be the actual beam width would be naturally doubled also as well by having a double led lightset engine upfront as opposed to only a single lightset engine configuration setup.

    The helmet mounted configuration would still be providing variable point to shoot flood/spill illumination on the helmet in its normally advantageous higher mounted illumination light source mounting position.

    The combination of the three independent lighting sources (2handlebar/1helmet) even on the medium setting on the Magicsine LED Lightset (which is rated for 500lumens apiece) times three led light sources would add up to 1,500lumens; making the triple Magicshine LED Lightset a potential "betty killer" customized hybrid LED light configuration setup for less than $255.

    By running the Magicshine LED Lightset at only the medium(500lument) setting one can extend and optimize the total LED lightset total runtime to four hours or so; while still outputting sufficient the same 1500lumens lumination intensity.

    Extending total light output plus 500Lumen High Power LED Lightset runtimes beyond fours is not only feasible but easily obtainable/affordable via cheap upgrades to the Li-Ion battery subsystem via an external battery pack. (link provided for your reference if needed):

    Higher quality newer Polymer Li-Ion chemistry 9aH external battery pack $80.00(not composed of 18650 cells) but composed of two 3.7V 9aH Polymer Li-Ion cells(good for >500recharges) $8.88 per amp:

    http://www.batteryspace.com/polymerl...whwithpcb.aspx

    For those concerned with their Li-Ion chemistry external battery pack catching fire one can always opt for the safer alternative of encasing the external battery pack in an accompanying enclosure.

    Higher quality newer Polymer Li-Ion chemistry 10aH external battery pack $140.00(also not composed of 18650 cells) but composed of four 3.7V 5aH Polymer Li-Ion cell(good for >500recharges) $14.00 per amp complete with trail tech connectors:

    http://www.batteryspace.com/polymerl...-techplug.aspx

    For those concerned with their Li-Ion chemistry external battery pack catching fire one can always opt for the safer alternative of encasing the external battery pack in an accompanying enclosure while extending their total training run times for ultra-long illumination intervals an option might be.

    Higher quality newer Polymer Li-Ion chemistry 25.2aH external battery pack $180.00(also not composed of 18650 cells) but composed of four 7.4V 12.6aH Polymer Li-Ion cell(good for >500recharges) $7.14 per amp complete with trail tech connectors:

    http://www.batteryspace.com/polymerl...-techplug.aspx

    The interesting thing with the mega capacity $180.00 25.2aH external Polymer Li-Lion battery pack would be capable of running all three Magicshine LED Lightsets in "betty killer 1500lumen mode" for approximately 7.5hours and still have the original three 4.4aH Magicshine Li-Ion batteries using them as backup for a total combined estimated run time of 11.5hours while still coming in well under betty budget busing led lightset and battery upgrade prices -->>$255 triple Magicshine MJ-808 plus $180 enhanced Polymer Li-Ion external battery subsystem equals $435 (29cents per lumen-->>1,500lumens) for the ultimate customized 1,500lumen "betty killer" running for up to 11.5 hours non-stop.

    feel free to chime in with feedback response and/or ideas on the ultimate "betty killer" mode design.
    ------------------------
    for your reference I have included a weblink that illustrates some of the major LED Lightset manufactures and their respective beam characteristic patterns:

    http://fonarevka.lux-rc.com/
    ------------------------
    for your reference I have also in addition included the link of the Magicshine Lightset Manufacturer MJ-808 for their specification page below:

    http://www.headlamp.cn/productsShow.asp?id=321
    -------------------------
    from the above specified link for the MinJin and geomangear (http://www.geomangear.com/index.php?...38paikjv9i1732
    ) one can derive:

    The batteries are 7.4VDC lithium ion batteries with 4.4AH of capacity that drives the battery for about three hours
    and the low brightness illumination setting is 30percent of total illumination (200 lumens) and the medium brightness illumination
    setting is five hundred lumens.
    --------------------------
    Now using rudimentary high school electricity/physics equations:

    Power equals Voltage times Current

    Voltage equals Current times Resistance

    Voltage equals Power divided by Current

    Resistance equals Voltage divided by Current

    Current equals Voltage divided by Resistance
    ------------------------
    From the above source known values one can find:
    ------------------------
    Total Power in Watts generated by battery:

    Power equals Voltage times Current

    Power equals 7.4VDC times 4.4AH

    Power equals 32.56Watts generated by battery over three hours
    ------------------------
    Total Power consumed at full load per hour:

    Power equals Total Power divided by Time

    Power equals 32.56Watt divided by three hours

    Power equals 10.85Watts consumed at full load per hour
    ------------------------
    Total Current consumed at full load power per hour:

    Total Current equals Power consumed in hour at full load divided by Voltage

    Total Curent equals 10.85Watts divided by 7.4VDC

    Total Current equals 1.466AH per hour
    ---------------------------
    Total Current consumed at 30 percent full load (low Magicshine setting):

    Low illumination current (200lumens) equals Total Current time 30 percent of total current full load current illumination

    Low illumination current (200lumens) equals 1.46AH time 0.30

    Low illumination current (200lumens) equals 440maH at 200lumens
    ----------------------------
    Total current consumed to generate lumen of illumination:

    Total current consumed to generate lumen of illumination equals low illumination current consumed divided by Lumen

    Total current consumed to generate lumen of illumination equals 440mA divided by one Lumen

    Total current consumed to generate lumen of illumination equals 2.2ma/Lumen
    -----------------------------
    Total Power consumed at low illumination Magicshine setting (200lumens) equals Voltage times Current

    Total Power consumed at low illumination Magicshne setting (200lumens) equals 7.4VDC times 440maH

    Total Power consumed at low illumination Magicshine setting (200lumens) equals 3.26Watts low power wattage
    -----------------------------
    How many hours at low power (200lumens) illumination with 7.4VDC and 4.4aH rated Li-Ion battery

    Time in hours at low illumination power setting(200lumens) equals Li-Ion Battery current rating divided per hour low setting current draw

    Time in hours at low illumination power setting(200lumens) equals 4.4aH divided 440maH

    Time in hours at low illumination power setting(200lumens) equals 10 hours
    ------------------------------
    How many Lumens generated by Magicshine Lamp at high illumination setting at full power:

    High illumination current flow equals 1.466aH

    Current consumed per Lumen produced equals 2.2maH per Lumen

    Lumens generated by Lamp at high illumination equals high illumination current flow divided by current consumed per lumen generated

    Lumens generated by Lamp at high illumination equals 1.466aH divided by 2.2maH

    Lumens generated by Lamp at high illumination equals 666Lumens

    Hey guys that's about what the max value for a type "C" bin P7 LED Lightset engine should produce ballpark depending on course of the particular driver used in application.
    ---------------------------------
    How many watts consumed by lamp at full illumination.

    Total Power consumed at high illumination Magicshine setting (666 lumens) equals Voltage times Current

    Total Power consumed at high illumination Magicshne setting (666 lumens) equals 7.4VDC times 1.466aH

    Total Power consumed at high illumination Magicshine setting (666lumens) equals 10.85Watts high power wattage
    ---------------------------------
    How many hours at high power (666lumens) illumination with 7.4VDC and 4.4aH rated Li-Ion battery

    Time in hours at high illumination power setting(666lumens) equals Li-Ion Battery current rating divided per hour high setting current draw

    Time in hours at high illumination power setting(666lumens) equals 4.4aH divided 1.466aH

    Time in hours at high illumination power setting(666lumens) equals 3 hours

    Hey guys, that is about what everyone is getting about three hours on high Magicshine setting.
    ---------------------------------
    How much current consumed by Lamp at Medium setting (500lumens)

    Current consumed at Medium setting (500lumens) equals Medium lumens times maH per Lumens

    Current consumed at Medium setting (500lumens) equals 500Lumens times 2.2maH per Lumen

    Current consumed at Medium setting (500lumens) equals 1.10aH
    -----------------------------------
    How many watts consumed bye lamp at Medium (500lumens) illumination.

    Total Power consumed at Medium illumination Magicshine setting (500 lumens) equals Voltage times Current

    Total Power consumed at Medium illumination Magicshne setting (500 lumens) equals 7.4VDC times 1.10aH

    Total Power consumed at Medium illumination Magicshine setting (500lumens) equals 8.14Watts Medium power wattage
    -----------------------------------
    How many hours at Medium power (500lumens) illumination with 7.4VDC and 4.4aH rated Li-Ion battery

    Time in hours at Medium illumination power setting(500lumens) equals Li-Ion battery current rating divided by per hour medium setting current draw.

    Time in hours at Medium illumination power setting(500umens) equals 4.4aH divided by 1.10aH

    Time in hours at Medium illumination power setting(500lumens) equals 4 hours
    -------------------------------------
    Cheers, whew that was a heck of a review of high school electricity/physics review.

    I actually had to crack open the books to review and practice.
    --------------------------------------
    Nice to review and know how to calculate the origins and answers from source derivative information but it all seems to check out as the answers seem to check out and are in what's called the "ball park" from what I have read on here in the mtbr and candlepower forums.
    --------------------------------------
    Review for Newly Purchased Magicshine MJ-808 P7 Based High Intensity LED Lightset Kit from Geoman is below as follows for your review and consideration:

    Ordered the Magicshine P7 Based High Power LED Lightset Engine from Geoman. Order was processed promptly and accurately by Geoman. I am upgrading from a slightly dated led lightset in the form of a Princeton Switchback 1; so this will be a significant upgrade in terms of overall light lumen intensity.

    I have seen some very good posted beamshots of the P7 Based Magicshine LED Lightset from a search on the internet; some very impressive looking illumination shots. I am willing to give the Magicshine MJ-808 high power led lightset the same chance I did with the Princeton Switchback I; as it looks like a great potential High Power Bicycle LED Lightset engine in the under one hundred dollar category.

    As soon as I get the Magicshine after it ships from Geoman, I will factually share information of first product LED lightset impressions and in the field LED lightset impressions.

    I got the Magicshine P7 Based High Power LED Lightset Engine from Geoman, the day after Columbus Day. Geoman by the way threw in the helmet mount as an added unexpected bonus to the Magicshine P7 based LED lightset kit. Many appreciative thanks to the Geoman or "G" Man for short.

    I measured the Magicshine P7 based LED lightset head diameter dimension and it comes out to 1.5 inches and is 2 inches in lighthead depth for those concerned about it being bulky and/or heavy it definitely is lightweight as promised. The pushbutton on the back of the Magicshine LED lightset is about the size of a dime and is lit up with a green glowing LED when plugged into the 4.4aH Lithium Ion based battery pack.

    The Magicshine lighthead bezel has a cool scalloped bezel design that makes it look very modern in styling. The Magicshine lighthead body behind the lighthead bezel has a concentric grooved cooling ridged design, with a professionally black anodized aluminum surface to help cool the LED lighthead.

    The Magicshine lighthead power cord that goes to the external Lithium Ion based battery pack is a generous 45 inches long to allow the flexibility of mounting the battery pack wherever convienently desired.

    If you enjoy the appearance and physical body design of the Lupine Tesla design this looks similar in most aspects and you will definitely like its cool, streamlined, sleek, lean body based looking LED Lightset design overall.

    The external Lithium Ion battery pack is 2.75 inches height tall body and has side dimension of 1.5 inches on each side; so it is relatively small and lightweight with a nylon pouch included to allow one to wrap it underneath the handlebar near where the LED Lighthead is to be mounted on the handlebars.

    The Magicshine P7 based lightset kit also comes with an AC adapter designed specifically to recharge the Lithium Ion based external battery pack rapidly/quickly and its DC output voltage is listed as 8.4VDC so as to enable the rapid recharging of the 7.4VDC external battery pack at a current rate of approximately 1.8aH equivalent to a recharging rate of 30ma per minute.

    The external Lithium Ion battery pack only took about an hour to top off its charge and turn from the red glowing led on the recharging AC adapter to a green glowing led.

    I followed the included yellow instruction sheet from the Geoman which clearly outlined the simple and self explanatory procedure to follow to cycle through the various five modes; the high, the med, the low mode intensities of illumination, along with the high frequency flash mode setting and the final strobe mode setting before going back to totally turning off the LED Lightset completely.

    The two black latex mounting o-rings included are sized 1.5 and 2.0 inches respectively and the thickness of the two black latex mounting o-rings included are both 3/16 of an inch thick which looks like it can be bought at any local hardware store having black latex o-rings available or at geomangear for $4 for the small/large o-ring paired 1.5/2.0 inch o-ring set.

    The included yellow instruction sheet also notes and mentions information regarding the lithium-ion battery should last approximately 300-500 charge/discharge cycles typically.

    The sheet also mentions the lithium ion battery pack prefers partial discharges as opposed
    to full discharges to lengthen, optimize and enhance the lithium ion battery packs longevity.

    The lithium ion battery pack prefers to be discharged no more than 60% of total capacity:
    4400maH times 0.60 equals 2,640maH. This would be equivalent to approzimately two and a quarter hours on medium(500lumens) illumination setting as a conservative estimate or alternatively one and three quarter hours on the highest illumination setting.

    If one needed additional battery capacity requirements on the day of bicycle tour or ride as a battery backup or extension to battery reserve capacity; Geoman has spare/extra Lithium Ion battery packs for $40 per extra battery pack; also as well.

    This is altogether, not a bad idea as in the colder upcoming autumn weather Lithium Ion battery pack capacity may be compromised by at least ten percent or more in total run time/capacity.

    I will be taking the Magicshine P7 based lightset out on the local streets where I live with an outside temperature of about 48 degrees F here in New Jersey, running the lightset on the highest lumen P7 LED setting for about an hour or so in order to test the overall general lighting and beam width/depth/quality first impressions.

    I will also use the helmet mounting option first as Geoman was so generous to have included it in the Magicshine lightset kit; so I figure I might as well test that also as well at the same time as testing the Magicshine Lightset overall.

    Its was fairly easy and relatively self explanatory to use and mount the large two inch diameter black latex o-ring around the horn on the base of the LED Lightset and then thru the helmet mounting base and the other end of the o-ring around to the other side of the horn on the base of the LED Lightset to secure the Lightset engine securely.

    The 3/16 of an inch thick black latex o-ring can best be fitted on the front horn best by first removing the small phillips head screw to facilitate the temporary removal of the black anodized aluminum base of the LED Lightset to initially set the black latex o-ring in its assigned channel due to the fact the front mounted lightset wire temporarily obstructs the path for securely inserting the black latex o-ring for its initial placement position in its channel/lip.

    The utility of moving ones head is useful to custom aim/direct the Magicshine P7 Led Lightset where it is best illuminated and seen on the ground both in front of the bicycle as well as in the far off distance at high lumen intensity to evaluate the merits of overall general bicycle lighting and the desired beam width/depth/quality first impressions.

    An additional added unintended potential benefit for both the touring and/or mountain bike cyclists might be the head mounted Magicshine P7 based Lightset Engine might better illuminate, reveal subsurface road obstructions and follow the irregular contours of the road better as well as reveal some of the more subtle shadows of road surface irregularities before inadvertently hitting them unintentionally; as a result of its higher vantage point helmet mounting position.

    Furthermore an added unintentional potential consequential benefit of having the Magicshine P7 based Lightset Engine mounted on the helmet might also help to further stabilize and reduce the undesired vibratory artifactual visual illumination based bouncing/shaking effects of mounting the Magicshine P7 based Lightset Engine on the handlebars; for example while cycling on rough mountain trails, obstruction/roots strewn paths; one can dynamically aim ones head to light and illuminate the desired path ahead; well in advance.

    Additionally, mountain/touring biking cyclists may also wish and/or desire getting a second Magicshine P7 based light engine also mounted on the helmet; to increase the depth, illumination and the desired characteristic led lightbeam width, shape and quality by aiming the two individual independent Magicshine Lightset Engines in combination together; one dedicated for close range illumination and the other for far away illumination; similar to benefits achieved using a double shot led lightset engine setup (i.e. cateye twinshot)

    Moreover, having a second Magicshine P7 based light engine mounted on the helmet affords one additional adjustment and scalability options in the adjustment of the total lumens scalability value that can be selected by the user.

    To help illustrate the point; reference column matrix below (reference column number by the bracket grouping):

    First column ----->> First Led Lighthead(lumens) is streetside
    Second column ----->>Second Led Lighthead(lumens) is curbside
    Third column ------>>Total Led Combination Lighthead(lumens) current draw along with battery run times for 4.4aH pack
    Fourth column ------>>Derated battery run times for 4.4aH pack

    (Off) / (200lumens(low)) / (200lumens equals 440ma / ten hours )--> (six hours(derated))

    (200lumens(low)) / (200lumens(low)) / (400lumens equals 880ma / five hours) --> (three hours(derated))

    (Off) / (500lumens(medium)) / (500lumens equals 1,100ma / four hours) --> (two hours +24min.(der.))

    (Off) / (666lumens(high)) / (666lumens equals 1,466ma / three hours) --> (one hour +48min.(der.))

    (200lumens(low)) / (500lumens(medium)) / (700lumens equals 1,540ma/two hours +51min)-->(one hr.+43min(der.))

    (200lumens(low)) / (666lumens(high)) / (866lumens equals 1,905ma/two hours +18min)-->(one hr.+23min(der.))

    (500lumens(medium)) / (500lumens(medium)) / (1,000lumens equals 2,200ma / two hours) -->(one hr.+12min.(derated))

    (500lumens(medium)) / (666lumens(high)) / (1,166lumens equals 2,565ma / one hour +43min)-->(one hr.+2min(der.))

    (666lumens(high)) / (666lumens(high)) / (1,332lumens equals 2,930ma / one hour +30min)-->(54minutes(derated))

    The matrix table above shows just some of the potential possible combination that would become available for selection based on your personal preferences or circumstances on the night of the bicycle ride/tour.

    Remember Lithium Ion batteries should not be discharged more than 60 per cent of total rated capacity.

    4,400maH times 0.60 equals 2,640maH working current so make sure to derate the above calculated run times by 40 per cent,
    in order to ensure one can potentially obtain the typical 500 Lithium Ion battery pack discharge cycles.

    Derated run times is displayed for your reference if needed in the right last column in the matrix table.

    Unfortunately, at the 1,000lumens, 1,166lumens and 1,322lumens illumination light levels the battery run times are only around an hour; so if continuous run times at these high intensity lumen light levels are anticipated, one would need extra Lithium Ion Battery packs to extend total run times to whatever one would need.

    An investment in a quality P7 based Lightset is an investment in confident, safe and enjoyable nightime cycling. With that being said I will go into some amplifying details on some firsthand impressions of the Magicshine P7 based Lightset.

    I definitely will have to say that the Magicshine P7 based Lightset Engine Kit is a very complete and impressively well put together kit; for the under the sub $100 category P7 based Lightset Engine.

    The minimal very compact footprint profile and total weight of the lightset engine is sufficiently small that one can easily put two Magicshine Lightsets on ones helmet at the same time; as the lighthead is only about 240grams in weight along with its similarly lightweight and minimal 200gram external Lithium Ion based battery pack that is easily tucked away in ones rear cycling jersey pocket.

    The forty-five inch cord from the lighthead that goes to the external battery pack is sufficiently long so as to easily reach ones rear cycling jersey pocket conveniently.

    The dime sized rubber covered green glowing switch on the back of the lighthead has a nice tactile feedback quality and feel to it. The build qualty of the lighthead itself is decidedly excellent and solid in both feel and looks; which is very easy on the eyes due to the sleek black anodized coating on the lighthead's surface.

    I went for my first ride last night with the Magicshine P7 based Lightset mounted on my helmet with the supplied helmet mounting bracket from Geoman. The helmet mount has a nice and great lightset head tilting adjustment feature that makes it easy to vary the vertical tilt angle evenly and smoothly in a controlled manner using only one hand; even while riding ones bicycle.

    Kudos and many thanks to the Geoman for doing his homework and getting this helmet mounting bracket for his loyal and faithful customer/users; as I am sure that they will fully enjoy its exceptional utility and safety options it potentially offers to Magicshine Lightset users/customers.

    All of you reading this are probably wondering how did the Magicshine P7 based Lightset perform. My initial trial bike ride with the Magicshine Lightset with it mounted to my provided helmet mount was for about an hour and fifteen minutes with the Lightset set on the highest lumen intensity for the entire ride.

    The lighthead's beam quality is absolutely superb and intensely white and bright in intensity; with just the right amount of evenly divided spotlight and accompanying healthy amounts of needed desired spillover floodlight just outside the spotlight's corona.

    Now being a user of the Princeton Tec Switchback I LED Lightset which is now a rather dated LED lightset; I just was not prepared for the light intensity in the LED spotlight and floodlight quality arena.

    In comparison to the Princeton Tec Switchback I Lightset this is a spotlight and floodlight monster; as this is another level of bicycle lighting illumination altogether and will dramatically alter your nighttime cycling experience(s) at multiple level(s).

    I was able to ride on my bicycle anywhere from approximately ten miles per hour on the flats to up to approximately twenty-two miles per hour on mildly sloping downhills with total utter confidence, safety and ability to see everything in front of the bicycle on the dark pitch black roadway.

    As a result, I was able to rapidly settle into and enjoy my nighttime bicycle ride instead of worrying about being seen and also worrying about seeing what is in front of my bicycle safely. During the ride, I felt I never had to worry about slowing down for safety reasons; trying to read the road subsurface at night for potential road obstruction hazards or dangers.

    I will have to definitely say this is one powerful and intense updated P7 based LED torch Lightset put out by the folks over at Magicshine and can safely say I have never seen or experienced such a high quality level of bicycle lighting illumination before in a bicycle lighting system. Kudos to the Geoman and Magicshine people for a job well done; to successfully bringing this product to the bicycle lighting market.

    I have no doubt they will have no trouble selling many more of these now updated P7 based LED Lightsets once the good word of mouth advertising and good press release communications news gets out about how good the level quality of currently updated P7 based LED bicycling lighting system design has gotten.

    During the one hour and fifteen minute nighttime bicycle ride, the Magicshine Lightset was set on its highest intensity setting the whole time and the Lithium Ion external battery pack did a fabulous job at maintaining this high level of light intensity without missing a beat.

    Even after seventy five minutes of high light intensity being delivered to the P7 based LED Lighthead, the level of light intensity remained high during the whole time without any signs of fading or diminishment in light intensity.

    I plugged in the Lithium Ion external battery pack into its Lithium Ion based recharging AC adapter and it recharged the battery pack in about an hour without any muss or fuss about it; with the LED on the recharging AC adapter turning green after it finished showing it was finally done recharging the Lithium Ion battery pack.

    The whole Magicshine MJ-808 LED Lightset Kit is a well put together and thought out bicycle lighting system upgraded and enhanced with the newer P7 based LED Lighting technology which is now starting to be widely available and starting to enter the bicycling lighting system market.

    Everything about the Magicshine P7 based LED Lightset offering; from the LED lighthead mounting system; to the LED lighthead beam quality and the LED lighthead casings modern and updated sleek black anodized looks; to the advanced Lithium Ion based external battery pack subsystem design and its battery run time life is fantastic.

    These are all potentially desirable invaluable bicycle lighting system characteristics and traits in purchasing a potential bicycle lighting system.

    When I was contemplating purchasing this particular Magicshine bicycle lighting system I was initially concerned with all of the above discussed referenced items in this review. I can safely say after having experienced firsthand; the Magicshine P7 based LED Lighting Kit System will immensely add a much appreciated measured level of added bicycling safety and enjoyment to your next nighttime serendipitous bicycle riding road/mountain experience; at a fair value price that cannot be beat, to boot.

    To the guys at Geoman/Magicshine; many Kudos/thanks for bringing this updated P7 based LED bicycle lighting system product successfully to cyclists worldwide via the internet; finally cyclists on a global wide basis have an alternative choice when it comes to selecting both a decent and very powerful P7 based LED Lighting System for their nighttime bicycle lighting system needs.

    Thanks guys for reading. cheers[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT]

  78. #78
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    Let me be the first to say....huh?

  79. #79
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    New question here. Magicshine P7 based LED Lightset Engine Further Product Information

    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr
    Let me be the first to say....huh?
    Yes, there is a lot of discussion about this particular P7 based LED Lightset Engine.

    Some of it quite controversial on candlepowerforums, some of it accurate and some of it inaccurate.

    Figured, I would post information that I have collected over a period of time; after taking the time to digest information trying to figure out what does all this information mean to a potential bicycling lighting system consumer.

    Hopefully there will be less controversy, chaos and confusion.

    There have been heated debates regarding P7 versus P4 LED designs in regards to the actual light output in lumens.

    Unfortunately, it is not altogether that clear cut or simple as one would think and a little bit more information and analysis is needed.

    So I have done the best that I can with the information that I currently have on hand and try to present it in such a way as to benefit the forum community at large to hopefully answer some of the more common frequently asked primary and secondary questions about this controversial P7 based LED Lightset Engine and hopefully others on this forum and others will share their experiences both positive and negative of course so that we can all learn from them.

    If anyone has an infared temperature sensing thermometer, it would be nice to know what range of temperature values might one expect coming off a typical heat sinked P7 versus P4 LED Lightset Engine.

    Yes, its so true some people are in shock and awe that a new entrant into the marketplace can offer the lumen intensity of a Lupine Tesla class bicycle lighting system with reasonable quality.

    Felt it was necessary to identify what this P7 based LED Lightset Engine represents to the potential bicycle lighting system consumer.

    Perhaps its not the same level of quality as that of Lupine Tesla or Wilma or Betty class bicycle lighting system but then neither is the price ridiculously out of reach for most "Joe Six Pack" bicycle riding commuters/recreational cyclists; I will grant you that.

    What it does represent however, is a major and exciting breakthrough in "lumens for dollars" for most "Joe Six Pack" bicycle lighting system consumers who just want a very bright (around 600-700 lumens) "no frills" bicycle lighting system?

    I myself personally, use it everywhere and anywhere any kind of illumination is needed.

    Literally overnight, it has handily rendered obsolete and replaced all my non-led flashlights as well as also rendering my personal collection of led flashlights in general to the status of secondary backup lighting sources (which is still needed on occasion).

    Now this is primarily due to the fact that the P7 LED Lightset engine is so versatile in nature, powerfully bright, utilitarian and fully scalable to any job or task one might have at hand.

    I use the head/helmet mount attachment all the time on mine and that allows handsfree operation literally.

    Getting underneath the kitchen/bathroom sink, under the bathroom toilet, in the workshop as a workshop light, outside for mowing the lawn because the sun sets early, cycling of course, nighttime hiking without the fear of getting lost, going up to the attic to search for something, going to the basement to check on furnace/plumbing, checking underneath ones car or working on ones car after dark, etc. All of these tasks and many more now; are no problem or worry whatsoever anymore.

    And guess what it has so far not let me down as of yet; go figure.

    Now to be sure I had my doubts like others on these and other forum boards, but the more research I did; the more I became comfortable with the idea of using the new P7 based LED Lightset engine as a powerful lighting tool to illuminate whatever one might be doing on the spur of the moment.

    Simply put, as a powerful LED lighting tool and for the price(this tool is no joke); one can derive a "whole lot of utility" from this indispensable tool; even though despite the fact it is not a Lupine Tesla/Wilma/Betty class "state of the art" (SOA) LED Lightset engine.

    The Lithium Ion external battery pack is absolutely superb in both battery reserve capacity, lightset total runtime and profile size footprint.
    It recharges quickly, simply and reliably as one would expect a powerful cordless drill battery without drama or theatrics.

    The replacement Lithium Ion batteries are easily and universally available on the internet for no more than $40 apiece if one should need or desire a backup battery for the "piece of mind", have an extra battery on hand for "no matter what", or just doubling up on battery reserve capacity, its all affordable enough.

    Now to be sure, I am almost certain I am going to come under attack from the Lupine "fanboys" shortly due to the above paragraphs, but I cannot afford to spend a small personal fortune for a set of very good (SOA) LED Lightset engines.

    So this is a very good compromise and "substitute goods" for me and the "Joe Six Pack" P7 LED Lightset buying consumer as well.

    To solve the problem of carrying the external Lithium Ion battery pack I wear an old recycled cycling jersey with the three pockets in the back; just in case one was wondering.

    You may have other commentary, feedback, observations, thoughts, ideas to share with the other forum members so please do not hesitate with your reply responses whether they be positive or negative feedback it is all good.

    cheers

  80. #80
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    daniel58, it's just a light dude.

  81. #81
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    It's a light, not snake oil, sliced bread or windex.

  82. #82
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    New question here. Magicshine P7 based LED Lightset Engine Further Product Information

    Quote Originally Posted by fightnut
    daniel58, it's just a light dude.
    Prior to buying the Magicshine P7 based LED Lightset Kit, I was over on amazon.com looking at the CygoLite TridenX Series of bicycle lighting systems, which are some of the brightest/lightest LED systems that Cygolite has in its product lineup.

    It basically has 600lumens LED light output from three different led emitters that can be toggled from high, med, low and ultra low along with accompanying flashing/sos modes.

    It also had options for helmet/handlebar mounting its LED lighthead.

    Now on the high 600lumen mode with its high capacity Lithium Ion battery pack it says it can last about five hours.

    Now its a great brand name bicycle lighting system, the price however was decidedly on the steepish side though at $335.

    http://www.amazon.com/TridenX-600-LE...5651870&sr=8-3

    So while I was waiting to save up the $335 buckerooskies necessary to buy this outstanding Led Lightset, I was doing further homework and research on the internet investigating other bicycle P7 LED Lightset engine based systems and I basically came across the Magicshine MJ-808 P7 LED Lightset kit offering on Geomangear and then did some further research on what that LED Lightset product offering had to offer.

    Coincidentally the LED Lightset product offering has similar LED Lightset output as the Cygolite TridenX 600 by using only just one SSC-P7 four die high intensity P7 emitter source. See my prior indepth comprehensive and descriptive Magicshine posting/review for further details supporting that claim and any other questions one may have.

    All I had to do was find a 8.8aH Lithium Ion battery to double up its Lithium Ion battery reserve capacity from 4.4aH to the desired target 8.8aH which would bring the run times up to six hours as the Magicshine product offering lasts three hours on the 4.4aH Lithium Ion battery pack (which is in the link supplied below).

    http://www.all-battery.com/li-ion186...connector.aspx

    I then placed my order with both geomangear and allbattery for the Magicshine and the extra Lithium Ion battery option with allbattery.

    Now $85 for the Magicshine P7 Lightset Kit offering is a more than fair price for such a bright bicycle lighting system, espcially after looking at the P7 LED beamshot patterns on the internet.

    I figured the Lithium Ion battery was about $40 and the Lithium Ion AC adapter was around $20; how could I lose with an outfit like Geomangear which warranties the Magicshine for ninety days for the remaining; around $25.

    Now over the next ninety days to be sure, I will test and trial the Magicshine P7 Lightset offering extensively putting it through its paces, but I can already see literally with my own eyes that this product (is no joke).

    While it is true I did have to procure an additional Lithium Ion battery to be sure, to get the battery capacity upgraded up to six hours total running time with the 8.8aH Lithium Ion battery from allbattery, it is also conversely true that I have upgraded my total overall running time with the 4.4aH battery used in combination with the 8.8aH Lithium Ion battery from the Magicshine Kit, so that I now have nine hours of total overall running time; and that to me is a double win situation (product value added upgrade/enhancement)

    Total cost $85 for the P7 Lightset Kit plus $72 for the extra 8,8aH Lithium Ion battery.
    Total overall cost for the upgraded and enhanced P7 Led Lightset Kit combination $157; now here is the interesting twist one could take the difference between the $335 Cygolite TridenX LED Lightset Kit which is $178 and apply that towards a second Magicshine P7 Lightset Kit and another second 8.8aH Lithium Ion battery; which would be another $157.

    If one were to do that now, one would have a combined total lumens output of at least 1,200 lumens combined output which would needless to say would light up the roadway
    for even the fastest downhill stretch of roadway with utter rock solid confidence as close to daytime running conditions as one could possibly hope for or imagine (and a heck of a dual P7 LED Lightset upgrade ).

    cheers

  83. #83
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    daniel58 - you have to stop posting the same stuff in multiple threads on MTBR and keep it in only one. It's getting old and only been a day.

    I'm happy you like your light, but come on - enough is enough.

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by fightnut
    daniel58, it's just a light dude.
    daniel58, I second fightnuts concern. 'have a beer.......

  85. #85
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    ...on the other hand, I will be the first to give you an A+ grade on such a comprehensive report. You probably missed a few updates on your Facebook page while doing so :-(

    ....Wait! I now hear the Lupine "fanboys" grumbling ...... Quick! step away from that keyboard this minute.......We will need your expertise and diligence in the future indeed.....RUN!

  86. #86
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    Outsider, I was so impressed with the bar/25 and helmet/regular combo, that I ordered a lense. I hope I can mod it correctly and get it work.
    Quote Originally Posted by Outsider
    The 15° lens needs to be slightly modified to fit into the lamp housing in order to get rid of the LED die pattern. Just file of some part of the front part, just enough so that it fits into the lamp housing. Then file of the support wings at the back of the lens to get the lens to fit directly around the LED. That way you should get a fairly even 15° beam, as seen in the 4th picture from the top in this post (not my picture). I don't think there is any noticeable difference in the light loss between this lens and the original reflector.

  87. #87
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    daniel58, Just wanted to tell you I read that whole thing. You writing a paper for school or something?

    [quote=daniel58]

    Cool feedback; nice to hear Magicshine Led Lightset handily beats the Dinotte 200Lumen LED Lightset engine.
    .....blah blah blah

  88. #88
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    Good job! commentary on MS in 2010 MTBR Led bike lights shootout

    [QUOTE=dcc1234]daniel58, Just wanted to tell you I read that whole thing. You writing a paper for school or something?

    Quote Originally Posted by daniel58

    Cool feedback; nice to hear Magicshine Led Lightset handily beats the Dinotte 200Lumen LED Lightset engine.
    .....blah blah blah
    they have a new posting on mtbr("2010 Led Lights Roundup") of all the led lights tested in roundup with all the figures in the preferred lux measurement for all the led lights being compared in roundup.

    this is the first time magicshine has been included in a roundup with beam pattern shots and it measures in at 37lux which is not bad when one has two of these things its decent.
    Last edited by daniel58; 11-20-2009 at 09:26 AM.

  89. #89
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    [QUOTE=daniel58]
    Quote Originally Posted by dcc1234
    daniel58, Just wanted to tell you I read that whole thing. You writing a paper for school or something?



    they have a new posting on mtbr of all the led lights tested in roundup with all the figures in the preferred lux measurement for all the led lights being compared in roundup.

    this is the first time magicshine has been included in a roundup with beam pattern shots and it measures in at 37lux which is not bad when one has two of these things its decent.
    So going with 2 Magicshines on the bars and one on the helmet with a couple of spare batteries in the Camelbak and I should be able to scare the Moose off the trails?

  90. #90
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    Also tried my new Magicshines last night. One on the bars and one on helmet. The amount of light is certainly pretty good!!! But, I also brought my "old" Airbike P7 because I wasn't sure about the pattern for the handlebars. I ended up riding all 3 lights...

    I aimed the Airbike closer in front, because it has a wider, floodier pattern than the MJ. The MJ was pointed just in front of the hotspot of the Airbike. My helmet MJ pointing where I'm looking.

    I know some people have added the frosted scotch tape to their MJ's to diffuse the beam a bit more. I'll have to try it but I don't know how to go about it. Cover the entire lens with tape? Just run on strip across the middle? Make some kind of donut with the tape? I'm sure some type of optics would be the preferred way but I haven't seen anyone changing the reflector so far....

    Johnnydrz

  91. #91
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    Johnnydrz, one can always make a custom frosted magic transparent tape patch on a file folder cut-out template if one needs to have it as a removable option;

    a small strip of adhesive velcro closure could accomplish the job of holding the custom frosted magic transparent tape patch with the file folder cut-out template onto the MS body;

    in case there are times when one wants spotlight as opposed to diffuse floodlight illumination.

    Then one can get the best of both worlds.
    Last edited by daniel58; 11-20-2009 at 09:29 AM.

  92. #92
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    Comparison of the Airbike P7 and the MS.
    MS is brand new, I got the Airbike in September.

    Shot with the new GoPro HD at the 960P setting.


  93. #93
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    Bruce Brown:
    So going with 2 Magicshines on the bars and one on the helmet with a couple of spare batteries in the Camelbak and I should be able to scare the Moose off the trails?[/quote]

    yes, that is nearly an ideal configuration with 111lux in total illumination(which is brighter than any other Led light luxwise in the 2010 Led Lights roundup under $1000.00) to light up the dark cold nights; two fixed and one variable(assuming 37lux times 3(MS lamps).
    Last edited by daniel58; 11-20-2009 at 09:28 AM.

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnnydrz
    Also tried my new Magicshines last night. One on the bars and one on helmet. The amount of light is certainly pretty good!!! But, I also brought my "old" Airbike P7 because I wasn't sure about the pattern for the handlebars. I ended up riding all 3 lights...

    I aimed the Airbike closer in front, because it has a wider, floodier pattern than the MJ. The MJ was pointed just in front of the hotspot of the Airbike. My helmet MJ pointing where I'm looking.

    I know some people have added the frosted scotch tape to their MJ's to diffuse the beam a bit more. I'll have to try it but I don't know how to go about it. Cover the entire lens with tape? Just run on strip across the middle? Make some kind of donut with the tape? I'm sure some type of optics would be the preferred way but I haven't seen anyone changing the reflector so far....

    Johnnydrz
    Wait....

    So you would buy some new lights for their light output, then spend time and energy trying to lessen their output with frosted tape?

    Why not just buy a light that has the output and settings you need?

  95. #95
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    simply put, one desires spotlight or floodlight at times and when trail conditions warrant.

    its alway best if one has the luxury of "diversity of lighting options"

    often times on high end led setups there is one dedicated spotlight that has the associated lens optics that goes along with that and,

    then there are two floodlight led's dedicated to supplying wide dispersion flood illumination along with the accompanying lens optics that go along with that,

    an example of this is in the cateye triple shot.

    probably johnnydrz is likely tailoring and customizing led output characteristics to fit whatever trail conditions he may find himself riding.
    Last edited by daniel58; 11-21-2009 at 07:11 AM.

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by SingingSingleTracker
    Wait....

    So you would buy some new lights for their light output, then spend time and energy trying to lessen their output with frosted tape?

    Why not just buy a light that has the output and settings you need?
    A more diffuse light with wider spread on the bars seems nice. Ideally, one wouldn't lessen the light ... only spread it better. I bought a 25 degree lense/diffuser to experiment with.

    PS. Thanks again. I finally rode my set of MagicShines last night. One on bars and one on helmet. It was a very enjoyable night ride, and I never wanted more light. My friends were impressed as well, and I wouldn't be surprised if you get an order or two from Boise in the next few days.

  97. #97
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    I don't want to lessen the available light, only spread it better...

    Where did you get the 25 degree lense/diffuser for a P7 ???

    Johnnydrz

  98. #98
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    HERE

    They require some work, and I have yet to do the work. I bought two and will likely have one left over. Here is the deal though, the difussers look 'frosted' ... so what is the difference between them and the tape? I dunno.

    Outsider post #33 on this thread shows the beamshots. Ousider Post #38 tells a litle more including where he got them.

  99. #99
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    Thank you [email protected] This is exactly what I'm looking for. Very well explained in his post #38. Fits my experience.

    I will try a few "tape" set ups though...

    Johnnydrz

  100. #100
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    .... Just placed an order for 2 x 15 degrees, and 2 x 25 degrees.
    Question: what do I do with the reflectors that are presently in there???

    Johnnydrz

  101. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnnydrz
    .... Just placed an order for 2 x 15 degrees, and 2 x 25 degrees.
    Question: what do I do with the reflectors that are presently in there???

    Johnnydrz
    Use em till the new ones get in ... they are shipping from germany so it will be a while.

    Honestly, I would like it if Outsider would post a pic of the altered diffuser and his new assembly.

  102. #102
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    I've been riding with a Magicshine on the helmet and just got a second one for the bars. It really helped with the shadows, but I did find it a bit "spotty". After I got home, I put one layer of Glad Press'n Seal...

    ...over the lens and that really diffused the beam pattern. I tried a second layer and I think it's even better. After a couple hours of riding (without the "diffuser"), I didn't find the lens to be hot to the touch at all, so I think that will be a good solution.

    Steve

  103. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected]
    Use em till the new ones get in ... they are shipping from germany so it will be a while.

    Honestly, I would like it if Outsider would post a pic of the altered diffuser and his new assembly.
    I ordered the 15 and 25 degree lenses on the 12th and received them on the 20th. I'm in the USA.

    Outsider gave us this link with photos of the altered lenses.

    After seeing them for myself, the existing beamshots with these lenses seem rather overexposed compared to what my eyes see.

    The 25* lense has a nicer and much more even beam pattern than the original reflector, but it is so dim that overall it is not nearly as usable as the stock light. I don't like it at all.

    The 15* lense has a larger hot spot than the stock light with very little spill. It seems to lack the punch of the original reflector while losing the nice spill. I will play with this one a little more.

    Don't feel like you are missing much (if anything) by staying with the stock reflector.

    I tried beam shots with several camera settings but chose the one I used here to best reflect what I could see.

    25*, 15*, original reflector...ISO 100, f/4.0, 2 seconds.
    Attached Images Attached Images    
    Last edited by gmcttr; 11-20-2009 at 06:57 PM.

  104. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnnydrz
    .... Just placed an order for 2 x 15 degrees, and 2 x 25 degrees.
    Question: what do I do with the reflectors that are presently in there???

    Johnnydrz
    Myself, I would cancel the order for the 25* lenses and save the $'s

  105. #105
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    Out of the three pics above, I prefer the far right one, the stock lens,.
    It seems to light up the trail better to see.

  106. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corey52
    Out of the three pics above, I prefer the far right one, the stock lens,.
    It seems to light up the trail better to see.
    I agree.

  107. #107
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    I'm sorry if my pictures have misled you. It should be visible from my pictures that the flood light is aimed very close to my front wheel, since most of the trails I ride are technical and slow enough to need that. Aiming the flood light too far away does spread the light out too much, making it dim. I made two picture series, of which the second follows the MTBR standard exposure settings. The point of that standard is not to make the pictures appear as they appear to the eye, but rather to make them more comparable.

    I still don't like the light pattern of the original reflector, since it is not wide enough. It is totally unusable for skiking and not good enough for riding on my local paths IMO. The narrow spot makes it look very bright, though. I'm currently testing out yet another variation for the handlebar light, a 15° lens with a diffuser, which should give a 20° beam. It seems to give noticeably more light than the 25° lens, while still being wide enough. The 15° helmet light stays, since it gives almost twice as wide a hotspot without sacrificing very much of the throw (the stray light almost disappears).

  108. #108
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    Outsider...because you included your camera settings, I did not feel misled at all. I appreciate your work and the info you have posted. You were very clear that the 25* lens provides a dimmer light that was still useful up close.

    For the trails I ride, I like the bar light out a little farther.

    In general I find the mtbr settings to make beam shots seem brighter than what they actually appear to me. I guess my post may have looked like I was blaming you, which I wasn't.

    Since you had already posted beam shots at the mtbr settings, I though I would try to show it as I see it.

    I agree that the 15* lens has a very interesting pattern, but I am not use to having virtually zero spill light. I will have to try a ride with this.

    Thanks again.

  109. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch
    I made a helmet mount.

    I'll have to get some pics up later, but I took a 4" length of plastic tube, cut some of the bottom out so that the uncut parts of the tube would stick into the vents on my wife's helmet. The MS light attaches to the plastic tubing the same as it would to a handlebar and I put an elastic band around the tubing and inside the helmet. Its solid, easy and light (I drilled as many holes as I dared into the plastic tubing).

    John
    Been reading over the posts regarding brainstorming about helmet mounting ideas so far.

    Then I thought, one could simply use an appropriately sized diameter wooden dowel and then also cover that with some type of thin pipe foam insulation so that when it touches the helmet it will have the ability to bend and give against the hard helmet subsurface giving it something to grip against(fitting into the helmet venting holes in helmet) tightly

    The diameter and length of wooden dowel would be relatively short and small sized as well as lightweight(low cost); another plus is the black pipe foam insulation covering would make it look more appropriately camoflauged on the helmet.
    Last edited by daniel58; 11-22-2009 at 05:04 AM.

  110. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by daniel58
    Been reading over the posts regarding brainstorming about helmet mounting ideas so far.

    Then I thought, one could simply use an appropriately sized diameter wooden dowel and then also cover that with some type of pipe foam insulation so that when it touches the helmet it will have the ability to bend and give against the hard helmet subsurface giving it something to grip against(fitting into the helmet venting holes in helmet) tightly

    The diameter and length of wooden dowel would be relatively short and small sized as well as lightweight(low cost); another plus is the black pipe foam insulation covering would make it look more appropriately camoflauged on the helmet.
    THESE?

  111. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected]
    kind of like in the pictured idea in post #10, along those lines;

    except when one uses the(thin black rubber hose section, cheap thin black rubber inner tube section, thin black foam pipe insulation section); one use an appropriately sized wooden dowel section(black inked ends) to fill out the central core section(one may have to cut it down in size if necessary to fit)

    the whole purpose of this helmet mounting exercise is so that one has a "rubber subsurface coated section" over a "firm and stiff wooden central rounded core section" that,

    one can rotate in the y-axis sufficiently for full scalable adjustability up or down easily, safely and conveniently while also making it look more visually aesthetic and pleasing by having it in an all universal black color.

    how this might be used in a typical application, is when one has the magicshine on the high intensity setting; one can easily reach up to the helmet mounting(in question) and

    shift position slipping the magicshine mounted headlamp position downwards to avoid having to potentially blind an oncoming pedestrian/driver unnecessarily but at the same time making it so relatively easy and natural adjustable one does not mind doing it frequently.

    one of the bike friendly advantages of this method of using lets say using the thin black rubber/hose section covered wooden dowel core(piece of velcro strapping thru helmet vent holes and rubber/hose section),

    is it would be able to break away in case of unforseen accident/hitting an unseen overhead tree branch but at the same time protecting ones head, helmet, and not so cheap magicshine headlight equally; all at the same time.

    another bike friendly advantage is one could also make preset(but adjustable position) fore and aft mounting positions on the helmet for one or two magicshine helmet mounted lamps whether it be one centrally mounted magicshine lamp or

    a twin magicshine lamp multiple mounting position configuration(for #1 magicshine lamp mounted left of center(fore/aft positions) and for #2 magicshine lamp mounted right of center(fore/aft positions)
    Last edited by daniel58; 11-22-2009 at 05:07 AM.

  112. #112
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    Recharge protocol?

    Just got the flashlight version of the Magic Shine and it had no instructions on battery charging. Is this the sort of system that will damage the battery if you leave it on for a few days, or can you leave in the charger until you need it and not worry about it? Have a Niteflux as the other light and enjoy the "smart" charger on it . . . thanks in advance.

  113. #113
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    Hey guys, there is another magicshine model out (mj-836) Has any one got one or used one? They are supposed to have a better cooling system...? Dx are selling them for $98. Just interested. Thanks Harry

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