KD 2 Light with Remote (version KD sells)- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    KD 2 Light with Remote (version KD sells)

    So as others said I needed to do, be the guinea pig on these.

    https://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023823

    I did, took over a month but it arrived today, along with my angel eye light. Angel Eye was going to be set aside for I didnt know what yet, maybe sons helmet light and this was going on commuter...

    Then I tested this thing:

    Changed to LEDDNA optics, switch to U2 3C emitters (the stock ones might be XM-L2, but they arent U2, no way), added some thermal paste, which by surprise it actually had a little of that white crap. ALso cut the battery cord down AS MUCH as I could, about 1/3 the length. Oh and swapped out the stupid triangle screws.

    I am actually impressed for what was expected to be a crappy 4.2v light. And tested on a 2 cell tenergy pack I have had laying around for like 7-8 yrs. Its not a yinding/kd2 but honestly isnt too far off. I compared the 2 (phone went dead so couldnt take pics side by side) and its high is about close to yinding 3A mod at medium. So about 2A give or take, Ill test soonish.

    Emitters are run in parallel, so thats gotta be helping. What testing I did, didnt see any noticeable effect of voltage drop on light output.

    (mount doesnt come with light, its the one I use for whatever light goes on my commuter)






    I think I ran my exposure a notch longer than usual (little saturated) but still, alot of light for a "crappy 4.2v light"

    Also, yet again with sad excuse for waterproofing. Head is same as anything KD, wire out bottom, the wire kind of plugs the gap between the mount and head. Remote button (also the driver) nice attempt at looking water resistant but I wouldnt let it get rained on without some form of grease or o-ring between the case halves. They fit loosly and no seal. But wires and button are decently sealed.

    That being said, Angel Eye is now commuter light, this has good flood and plenty of light for a bar light for my son. Hell I wouldnt hesitate to use it for a bar light for mellow cruising (which is his speed since hes still learning and a bit skittish of the trails yet)

    All Around good light, there is better at the price point. Giving it LEDDNA optics (Glowworm optics basically) allows it to be more efficient and would stand toe to toe with kd2 (kd2 on its stock optics). But this thing has one up on the kd2/yinding. The head is solid just a bit behind the emitters. 60 deg F outside and head on high for a few minutes barely got warm with my hand around it.

    Side note, Angel eye is pretty cool, was a minor bit of gunk or thin corrosion on driver boards when I popped the rear cap off but light works well. Its getting wire upgrade to main emitter and u2 3C installed too. KD posting L2 U2....its L2 but they aint U2.

    Will run tests on this over the next couple days, see if it actually gets beyond barely warm, see what the actual output is and get internal pics posted.

  2. #2
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    Had to revisit this:

    Fitted on commuter now, with 4cell pack built to 4.2v and the other changes, this thing at least for a while puts out respectable light. Ran it for an hr so far on medium and perfect.

    My thoughts hold true, though for the price better lights out there but for the remote included for commuting use, I love this little light.

  3. #3
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    Tigris, what is the giveaway on these emitters that they are not U2? Is it the [lack of] brightness or an off tint? Because my KD angel eye seems exceptionally bright for a single emitter lamp; light is terribly harsh but that's to be expected at that color temperature. Dunno what is typical for standard XM-L2 U2, all the lamps I have with that designation are from KD so if they are lying across the board about these then I wouldn't have a clue. BTW how do you swap the center emitter on the angel eye without messing up the 12 SMDs around it? Garry explained it to me before but without seeing the insides I couldn't quite grock it. Waiting for my snap ring pliers to come in so I can get off the retaining ring, pull everything out. Thanx!

  4. #4
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    Because my u2 3C are brighter without any mod to the driver. NW shouldnt look brighter than CW lol.

    I dont think KD is lying, I think maybe mine was just mismarked. And I think its just CW version thats not U2. I have one KD2 board that is the NW and its just as bright, where do you think I got my u2 3C's to put in this,lol. i have ran my known (bought from mtnelectronics) U2 3Cs side by side with KD and Yinding 3c, the NW are correct they are all visually the same. And youll notice a t5 t6 vs a U2.

    I cant wait till U3 bin is up to 3C tint lol. Only at 2C so far.

  5. #5
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    Huh, tigris, if both your KDr and AE are designated U2 but are not, that doesn't speak well to Kaidomain's accuracy in their product descriptions. Heck, we all know that stated lumens are to be ignored, but one would think at least they'd get the class right.

    Course I really don't care too much if I can swap out the fugly CW emitters for 3C or 5B1. All my NW lamp heads are plenty bright enough for me even without any mods to the drivers, but then I always run multiple lamps on the bars anyway. Cheat to win!

  6. #6
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    Ive never had any issues except this one light. Cw emitters should appear brighter but when I switch to NW the light gets brighter..... I can't see different optics making that big of a difference but I've been wrong before.

  7. #7
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    I've been looking for a mount like the one you made tigris99! How did you make it or do you know where I can get something similar pretty cheap?

  8. #8
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    Actually I didn't make the mount or buy it, came with Princeton light I had on my commuter before that fell apart (light was free, won in raffle). So made use of the mount.

  9. #9
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    Andy, here is a pic of the emitters:



    You just trim that emitter board to separate the smd's from the center board (two small tabs to cut) then replace the center board with a standard 16mm one.

    -Garry

  10. #10
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    Ah, now I see, you only have to make four little snips to free the center of the board. Thanks, Garry. By any chance do you have to remove the back to get the front to come out, or do you just need to unsolder the four wires? Because mine seems stuck, will only pull out about a mm or two. And it's aligned crooked too now, didn't notice that before. (This is my third lamp head, which I bought just to mod to tail light, other two I've been using as commuters are normal.

    KD 2 Light with Remote (version KD sells)-image.jpg
    D'oh!
    Last edited by andychrist; 04-24-2015 at 06:06 PM.

  11. #11
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    Hey didn't even think of it but light does good stock PCB if u can reflow emitters with a soldering iron like I do

  12. #12
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    Wonder what effect would be simply de-doming and then replacing elliptical diffuser with either a concentric, 60 wide angle lens, or even a plain 20 optic for use as a spot with super throw. Would be the cheapest and easiest solution, if it worked.

  13. #13
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    You don't need to take the back out, but it sounds like yours has really short leads. I never fully took mine apart. I had another user replace the emitter and look at bumping output on the driver.

    -Garry

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    You don't need to take the back out, but it sounds like yours has really short leads.

    -Garry
    Well Garry it doesn't feel like it's tugging on leads, more like it's hit a wall. Really jammed somehow. As long as the back doesn't have to come out though maybe I can still work on the board in front as long as the leads to the emitters are long enough. Though with de-doming, the board doesn't even have to come out. Still wish I could figure out how to [re?]align the back.

  15. #15
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    Way off topic here, lol, but aligning the back is easy. Set the button plate rotated counter lock wise then spin ring on, the hand holding the light use ur thumb to hold the button plate/driver while u turn down the ring with the other. Takes a couple tries but works fine.

    Btw, take the mount off and push the battery wire in to get the rear plate/driver out. Wont come out otherwise.

  16. #16
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    Ok so messing with my angel eye tonight (topic isn't all that interesting lol, 4.2v light is a pain)

    Hoping my smt red leds are compatible, should be.... I dont know nor able to find specs. But their red, so plan is to change all on the ring.

    Looks like I can simply buy emitter/mcpcb in red (XP
    Iirc instead of XML). Do the cut to the ring, change that out. Flashy on the main emitter is insanely fast so will work well to do what Andy is going and great a tail light off it. Allows me to use my modded mudder case to create a dual off single pack, no more battery replacing.

  17. #17
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    The Vf of red LEDs is ~1.7-2.1V The Vf of white LEDs is ~3.1-3.6V. Depending on the style of driver your light has something may go "poof" A true current regulator will be fine. Some lights have a "quasi" current limiting regulator topology using PWM. A PWM regulator often is VF sensitive.

    I swapped LEDs in my climbing headlamp a while back. It has a pretty simple 3 level PWM driver in it. The original LED had a Vf of 3.6V and the new LED had a Vf of 3.3V. Since the current/voltage curve is very steep on LEDs, that small, .3V difference resulted in the driver allowing ~450mA to the LED against about 300mA with the original LED. In this case it worked because the driver output chip can handle up to 500mA and the LED can handle 1000mA. My runtime on high dropped by ~50% but light output is probably double due to the higher drive current and more efficient LED.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

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