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  1. #1
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    K/D MS 880 clone. Not as fancy as the Solarstorm ( which they sell as well ) but likely do the same job as the other cheap two XM-L emitter lamps. At least these will likely handle heat better and have a decent mode set-up ( press to hold strobe ) Kaidomain looks to have a few two Xm-l lamps that ( while not fancy ) have a decent mode arrangement. Not that I'm stumping for K/D but I just had to tell folks about the MS clone.

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    Looks pretty good. Thanks for the link. Are you buying this Cat-man-do? They only thing it doesn't seem to have is any indicator of the battery life remaining.

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    @Cat, are you going to buy this product?

    It is a better sollution than SolarStorm X2?

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    No, I won't be buying one of these but if I was a newbe looking for a good bar light I would definitely consider it. Too bad these weren't around two years ago. Not sure if they have battery indicators on these but I will attempt to find out when I get the chance...off to work for now...

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    To be honest, i really don't know what to choose...

    This light (copy of the MJ-880) or the SolarStorm X2?

    Which is more suitable for modding? Maybe swaping the optics with some aspherics? And improving the thermal dissipation?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khrystyan27 View Post
    To be honest, i really don't know what to choose...

    This light (copy of the MJ-880) or the SolarStorm X2?

    Which is more suitable for modding? Maybe swaping the optics with some aspherics? And improving the thermal dissipation?
    I can't answer those questions but I like the look of the Solarstorm X2. Myself, I'm curious as to how easy one of these lamps might be to mod when it comes to LED replacement. With XM-L2's coming out if you can switch out the emitters without any problems that would be a big plus.

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    Wow!...those look nice. I like these better than the K/D version. The black is much better looking than the pale gray on the K/D.

    One thing that did jump out at me on the D/X ad....580lm? ( )
    That's got to be an error in the ad.

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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    I'm introducing a friend to night riding and he insists to buy a clone one. This "ultrafire" 8080 clone might be a good place to start. Do you think I can install a wide angle lens on it? I can get one from action led http://www.action-led-lights.com/col...for-the-mj-880 although it was designed for the original MJ 880.

    The battery holder looks cool too. Much better than the simple Velcro one.

    I've been trying to avoid purchasing on dx because they just take so much time..... I'll see if he likes the grey one. If he does buy it, I will review it here.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    Yeah, these colors are interesting but I'd like to see a "Gun metal Blue" or "dark metallic gray" like the Quad XM-L model. The black does look nice though.

    I sent the D/X guy a PM telling him about the "580 lumen" on the ad. He usually answers in a couple days.

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    Still no news about this one? From all these D99, SolarStorm X2 and now this D50, the last one seems to be the best one for the bars as it comes with an OP reflector AND we might actually be able to swap the lenses for the original MJ880 ones. A combination of one wide angle lense with the original one might be a good combination.
    I guess I will have to convince me friend to buy this one

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    I think the two button arrangement on these might be less than ideal. From the manafont link on the other thread.

    4 Modes: Hi > Mi > Lo > Strobe (press right swich for 2 secs to enter Strobe)
    Switch Location: Left on/off & Right modes adjustment
    What we really need is comparison shots of all three dual-led lights, in the same manner as Francois in his yearly shoot-out. Obviously. Maybe we can convince dx to send them all to Cat and he can do all the work.

    I bought a magicshine 868 clone for around $32 that I'm real happy with. It's brighter than the 808 and a major flooder. That and the triple and quatro xml led all deserve to part of the best-bang-for-your-buck conversation.
    Last edited by varider; 05-02-2013 at 09:54 PM.

  14. #14
    Kir
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    Since nobody posted any reviews yet...
    Clicky - here are some detailed pics of the light. Imo this light is awesome and one of the best choices atm.

    Some technical details:
    2 leds in series, current on leds in 3 modes - 0.58A-1.53A-2.36A
    2 buttons to control the light, one turns it on and off, another changes modes. These is a mode memory, if you turn it off - it will turn on in the same mode as it was before turning off (unless you disconnect the battery, this resets memory).
    Simple 2 stage voltage indicator, green switched to red at 6.41v on input.
    LEDs are mounted on thick aluminium...erm, inserts? Don't know the correct english term for that. These inserts are 21x7mm with 2mm recess in the front for mounting leds on 16mm stars. Then they're inserted into case with very small gap on the sides (about 0.1-0.2mm or so). Fill this gap with thermal paste and you'll have perfect thermal transfer to the outer case, which is massive enough to handle 2 leds on full power.
    Reflectors are orange-peel and made from aluminium, 21x14mm.
    Driver looks very nice, good soldering everywhere. Thick silicone wires to leds too, overall quality of light is very, very good.

    And then you have the battery pack...which is awesome! Its made from aluminium extrusion profile with 2 screwed-on covers (with rubber seals) on both sides. This makes it waterproof and the best thing about it - you can easily insert any non-protected 18650 cells into it.
    Just unscrew one cover, insert 4 panasonic 3400 cells and you have a 6800mAh battery, no need to solder anything.
    These are 4 cells included, made by ASO (some chinese company). They have about about 2100mAh capacity per cell, overall battery capacity (measured on Imax B6 at 0.7A discharge current) - 4246mAh.
    The only downside is that it comes without any pouches, just one velcro strap - but it fits into standart chinese pouches for these batteries.

    Overall this light (unlike D-99) is very well constructed and I was very impressed with it. Haven't tried it on road yet, so I can't give any comments about beam profile or brightness - but in the room testing it gives very wide beam with enough brightness to light up a whole wall.

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    That looks great, kir! Love the battery case design. Really really great. I have a 8 18650 cells taken from an old laptop and I've always wanted to test them for a bike light...this could work well as a cheap backup battery (considering that a good Xeccon one is on my way).

    Did you get it from DX? Thanks for the photos! Looking forward for beamshots

  16. #16
    Kir
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    This one is from kaidomain, silver version is sold only there afaik.
    Keep in mind that this battery pack is not designed for constant opening/closing, you'll wear out the screw holes very fast. But you can get it and replace cells inside to get a high-capacity battery.
    I won't be able to make any beamshoots atm - my mate stole this light from me to use on his bike And I don't really know to do them properly anyway.

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    Great info Kir. Looks like better thermal management than the d99, although I'm no expert.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kir View Post
    And then you have the battery pack...which is awesome! Its made from aluminium extrusion profile with 2 screwed-on covers (with rubber seals) on both sides. This makes it waterproof and the best thing about it - you can easily insert any non-protected 18650 cells into it.
    Just unscrew one cover, insert 4 panasonic 3400 cells and you have a 6800mAh battery, no need to solder anything.
    Thank you for the Review and the photos Kir

    KD sells the battery separately 17,40 USD
    http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S021564

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    Thank you HakanC and Kir!
    That battery pack from Kaidomain comes with a PCB, is there any reason I should not use protected Panasonic cells in there?
    Want to charge it with my Magicshine charger, hope the plugs will be compatible.
    Goatman
    - It's not the destination that counts but how you get there -

  20. #20
    Kir
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    It's simply not needed, you'll just make double protection. And I really doubt that you'll fit protected cells in this battery pack, there is barely enough length for normal batteries.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by HakanC View Post
    Thank you for the Review and the photos Kir

    KD sells the battery separately 17,40 USD
    http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S021564
    Sweet looking battery case! I've ordered two and will put the through a little abuse. I love the idea of being able to easily upgrade the pack with the latest cells. It is too bad they are slightly more robust in design and quicker to open/close. For a 24 hour solo, swapping precharged cells would be a cool way to go.
    baker

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    Quote Originally Posted by HakanC View Post
    Thank you for the Review and the photos Kir

    KD sells the battery separately 17,40 USD
    http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S021564
    Thanks for the Link! Has anybody tested this battery already? Is it available in other colours too (black maybeeeeeee)?
    ..just ride...

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    I'm interested in this light/battery/charger package. 2 hours minimum on high would be very nice (as they advertise). Where can one get a nylon pouch for the battery? I looked over the site and could not find one, sigh.

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    I went ahead and pulled the trigger on this. I liked Kir's review of the light (in terms of the build) and that the battery pack is strong and can easily be upgraded if desired. If I don't get the 2+ hours on 'high' I will complain. It's on back-order, but I'll update when it arrives and provide beam shots. Beam shots will include comparison to the Lumina 650 (which has tested out well to it's claimed 650 lumens in the mtbr shootout).
    Last edited by steelhmr; 07-04-2013 at 07:55 PM.

  25. #25
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    2 tests on high w/ a fan running @ 80 degrees f.
    1st test, 1hr. 51mins.
    2nd test. 2hrs. 4mins.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Whitedog1 View Post
    Thanks for the Link! Has anybody tested this battery already? Is it available in other colours too (black maybeeeeeee)?
    Will answer my own question now
    Did a short review on the battery pack (better tell it a battery hoder cause the deliverd cells inside are crap)
    You can find it here (post #133)
    Last edited by Whitedog1; 07-08-2013 at 10:17 PM.
    ..just ride...

  27. #27
    Kir
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    2500mAh - not bad
    UltraFire D-50 2 x Cree XM-L T6 580lm 4-Mode White Bicycle Light Headlamp - Black (4 x 18650) - Worldwide Free Shipping - DX - this one has 2000mAh battery pack, cells are usual blue chinese crap.

  28. #28
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    Finally got my light. Please track your package more closely than I did. From China to Pennsylvania:

    Ordered = July 4th
    Delivery attempt with notice supposedly left and never seen = July 19th
    Checked the tracking online = August 1st
    Re-delivered = August 5th

    If I had not noticed it for 5 more business days it would have been sent back to China. Anyway, I checked the light down in my basement. Super bright compared to my Lumina 650. Best comparison I can make is that with the KD unit set on Low, it was brighter than the Lumina on Medium (400 lumens according to manufacturer). If I had to eyeball estimate the differences on High, I would say that the KD is close to 2x the brightness of the Lumina (for whatever that is worth).

    Weight:

    Unit = 135 grams (as advertised)
    Battery = 250 grams
    2 battery straps + large O-ring = 8 grams

    Was leaning towards not riding today, but I guess that's out of the question. Gotta see how this looks on the trail. Eventually I will do run-time tests and beam shots (on the trail).

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    Quote Originally Posted by steelhmr View Post
    Finally got my light. Please track your package more closely than I did. From China to Pennsylvania:

    Ordered = July 4th
    Delivery attempt with notice supposedly left and never seen = July 19th
    Checked the tracking online = August 1st
    Re-delivered = August 5th

    If I had not noticed it for 5 more business days it would have been sent back to China. Anyway, I checked the light down in my basement. Super bright compared to my Lumina 650. Best comparison I can make is that with the KD unit set on Low, it was brighter than the Lumina on Medium (400 lumens according to manufacturer). If I had to eyeball estimate the differences on High, I would say that the KD is close to 2x the brightness of the Lumina (for whatever that is worth).

    Weight:

    Unit = 135 grams (as advertised)
    Battery = 250 grams
    2 battery straps + large O-ring = 8 grams

    Was leaning towards not riding today, but I guess that's out of the question. Gotta see how this looks on the trail. Eventually I will do run-time tests and beam shots (on the trail).
    So did you order from KD or DX? You seemed to get it pretty quick.

    Could you tell us your impressions of the beam shape of this light. Someone else described this a being more floody than the Solarstorm X2, which has been described as somewhat spotty. Of course there was disagreement on that point, but without beam shots it's difficult to compare the two.

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    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    So did you order from KD or DX? You seemed to get it pretty quick.

    Could you tell us your impressions of the beam shape of this light. Someone else described this a being more floody than the Solarstorm X2, which has been described as somewhat spotty. Of course there was disagreement on that point, but without beam shots it's difficult to compare the two.
    Varider,

    This was from KD. The pattern is definitely more of a flood, at least compared to my Lumina. Of course, that has to be expected to some degree since this is a 2x LED setup. I took it out on the trails last night. My time was limited so I only rode one trail. Also, I left right at sunset and got on that trail about 10 minutes later. Even though the sky was cloudy, there was still a lot of light hanging in the sky. I ride in the forest though under foliage so it still was too dark to ride without a light in there.

    Setup was the KD on the bars and a Lumina on my helmet. Very soon in I could tell that I was going to have to order another light for my helmet. The KD unit is so bright and full that it completely dwarfs any light being output from the Lumina. As stated earlier, it was far from 100% dark so I didn't get the maximum contrast needed to see the full effect of the light. What I did see was very impressive though. I am very very pleased with the light output. I will try to get beam shots sometime this month. Hopefully sooner than later, but gf is leaving for out of town today for a week and I'll need her to help me with this project.

    Just to be clear, this is the exact one that I ordered: http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S021521

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    Runtime Test #1

    Setup:

    1. KD light facing the air AC/heater in my office.
    2. Fan (only) running parallel to the front profile of the unit.
    3. 75-80 degrees F in the room.
    4. 'High' setting used throughout entirety of test.

    Results

    Before I go into the results, some notes about the test. As seen from the setup, the light was going into the fan so I could not see if the light pattern was changing. That being said, everything was running smooth. At the 2:07 mark, I went up to see if the unit was getting hot. I swear right when I was putting my fingers toward it, something happened. The light on the UI changed color or shape (bear in mind that I am colorblind so these changes are not as obvious to me). It continued to run and I didn't notice if the light output changed or not.

    It kept running and I cycled the UI to confirm that I was indeed still on the High setting. As it was approaching the 3-hour mark I again cycled through the UI, but it was again still on high. After the 3-hour mark I feel that I definitely noticed that it was not as bright (this was the first time in the test that I specifically noted a change in brightness). The unit continued to run until at the 4:15 mark when I had to leave for the day (obviously I wasn't expecting it to run this long). The light output was very weak by the end, but again, it was still running. I even cycled the UI one more time and it was still on High, as the other two setting were significantly weaker.

    In summary, I will have to test again and set it up so I can distinctly notice if the brightness changes. So far though, I am very very very pleased with the runtime. I need to quantify though when exactly it deviated from the max brightness (I was unaware that it was built in to run on lower power when the battery was low).

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    Great info. Thank you.

    Since this runs almost four hours, which is about the same as a Magicshine 808, I don't see how this could be any brighter.
    Last edited by varider; 08-07-2013 at 05:54 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    Great info. Thank you.

    Since this runs almost four hours, which is about the same as a Magicshine 808, I don't see how this could be any brighter.
    It ran for 4+ hours, but the light output at the end and sometime before the end was significantly lower than the maximum brightness. Again, I will have to quantify that with future tests. Also, this is a clone of the 880 with U2, not the 808.

  34. #34
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    What I was trying to say is that they use the same amount of energy in the same amount of time. The two xml led light can't be putting out that much more light than a single xml led light if it drains the battery in the same amount of time. That's if the leds are the same between these lights and driver efficiencies are the same. Of course this light uses the newer U2 light, so that already makes it different.

    To make the light brighter it needs to drain the battery faster. The 880 comes with a 6 cell battery and it only runs 2.5 hours on high.

    Anyway, I think this light probably has a better beam than a single xml (808 or clone) light. That makes it useful in my opinion. It probably not as bright as bright as the 880 though. I do like the two button user interface.

  35. #35
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    The description of these lights have always been works of fantasy that merely hint at the truth . I quite like the lights, but you would do well not accept any of the words and numbers in the description as being true. Just to give a few back of the envelope examples

    • The specs published by the manufacturer, Cree, on an XM-L U2 is that the maximum lumens produced at 2.8A is 936 x 2 = 1872
    • The only Cree LED that produces 1100 lumens at 2.8A is the XM-L2 and that's in the U3 bin.
    • The power consumed by an XM-L at 2.8A is 3.33V x 2 = ~18.6 W per hour. The available power in a li-ion cell rated at 2500 mAh is ~9.2W x 4 = ~37W. Even if you could achieve 100% efficiency, 4 x 18650 2500mAh cells could only run at 2.8A for less than 2 hours.
    • to run 2 XM-Ls at 2.8A for 4 hours would require in excess of ~75W or more than 8 x 2500 mAh cells.
    • working the other way, if 4 x 2500 mAh cells last 4 hours 37W / 4 hours = 9.25W per hour / 2 XM-Ls = 4.625W = ~1.45A each XM-L = less than 570 lumens each XM-L.

    Given these "exaggerations" in the description, I would be utterly astounded if they were using XM-Ls from the highest (& most expensive) U2 bin.

    One of the things I like about using 2 LEDs is that they produce more light per watt than a single LED driven at twice the current. Ignoring questions of driver efficiency,

    • 1 XM-L U2 at 2.8A = a maximum of 1067 lumens
    • 2 x XM-L U2 at 1.4A = a maximum of 623 x 2 = 1246 lumens

    Like I said I quite like the lights, just don't believe the words & numbers quoted for them.
    Last edited by find_bruce; 08-08-2013 at 03:04 AM. Reason: fix maths errors

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    I don't feel that I am explaining myself well enough. This unit DID NOT produce the maximum brightness for the entire 4:15. For all I know, and I am hypothesizing here, it ran with max brightness for 2-3 hours and then switched to some emergency power-saving mode for the rest of the test. I am not equipped to perform the test well at work since the setup I used directs the light into a fan instead of a wall. That is to say I can't see the beam well enough. I will re-test this with pictures at home to show what I mean when I say the the light output appears to change.

    Additionally, Kir measured the current of this unit on high at 2.36A, and not the 2.8A listed on the site.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by find_bruce View Post
    The description of these lights have always been works of fantasy that merely hint at the truth . I quite like the lights, but you would do well not accept any of the words and numbers in the description as being true. .....
    The only thing one should believe about these Chinese lights is, the housing will be some kind of aluminum and it will have some kind of LED(s) in it.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by find_bruce View Post
    One of the things I like about using 2 LEDs is that they produce more light per watt than a single LED driven at twice the current. Ignoring questions of driver efficiency,

    • 1 XM-L U2 at 2.8A = a maximum of 1067 lumens
    • 2 x XM-L U2 at 1.4A = a maximum of 623 x 2 = 1246 lumens

    Like I said I quite like the lights, just don't believe the words & numbers quoted for them.
    Yeah, that's the question I really had. I know the current to lumen curve isn't linear, so I thought there would be an advantage to using two leds instead of one. It's good to have the actual numbers, though. Thanks.

    So how does this extrapolate out to three or four leds? Those are becoming more prevalent in the chinese market.

    Quote Originally Posted by steelhmr View Post
    I don't feel that I am explaining myself well enough. This unit DID NOT produce the maximum brightness for the entire 4:15. For all I know, and I am hypothesizing here, it ran with max brightness for 2-3 hours and then switched to some emergency power-saving mode for the rest of the test. I am not equipped to perform the test well at work since the setup I used directs the light into a fan instead of a wall. That is to say I can't see the beam well enough. I will re-test this with pictures at home to show what I mean when I say the the light output appears to change.

    Additionally, Kir measured the current of this unit on high at 2.36A, and not the 2.8A listed on the site.
    Ok, I get is now. It doesn't last 4 hours on high. I wonder if Kir measure the current going through the leds or coming out of the battery.

    Well I'm struggling with find_bruce's numbers, but from what I gather this light is probably emitting 1100 lumens or more and lasts less than 2 hours on high. If Kir measured the led current, than it's emitting way more than 1100 lumens (ignoring driver efficiency).

    I think this light is probably a good buy, if the beam is as floody as I imagine.

  39. #39
    Kir
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    I'm the only one here with basic electronics equipment and some chinese bike lights?

    All these numbers in the description of all chinese lights are very exaggerated. For example Fenix BT20 supplies 3A to LED on turbo mode and specifies 750 lumen output - that sounds correct. But these chinese "1200-1800" lumens from single xml are obvious lies. Same with "6400" mAh batteries, you will never get more that ~4000, maybe 4400 from a chinese battery.
    I will measure the current on leds/battery in a few days/weeks...don't really have any spare time with work and bike riding and some other stuff like flying R/C helicopters

    For now I will explain the change in brightness. Yes, this light (and probably most other 2 XML lights) will have lower brightness in end of the battery life. The reason is simple - it uses step-down/buck driver with 2 leds connected in series. When battery (input) voltage drops lower than the voltage of 2 leds in series (Vf, depends on current/temperature/bin, usually about 3.1-3.2V per led, 6.2-6.4v for 2 leds) driver will slowly stop working and the current on leds will slowly drop to zero.
    Frequently Asked Questions its expained in more details here (2nd question)
    Buck converter - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia and here.

    So basically when battery voltage drops to ~6.8v and lower - leds brightness will begin to drop too. Then there will be a linear drop in brightness until battery is fully discharged.
    And thats actually a good thing - you will get slow brightness decrease, longer battery life in the end of the discharge cycle, noticable indication of discharged battery, etc.
    Imo this slow brightness drop is much better than sudden cutoff in 1 XML lights which have full regulation in entire discharge cycle.


    Here is a quick video to show how it works (sorry for the quality, used my old cellphone). Numbers on the left are current draw from PSU, numbers on the right are output voltage, D-50 light in middle mode. This is a very simple DC psu, so numbers aren't very accurate - but good enough for demonstration.
    As you can see light output is fully regulated until about 7v, at which point light draws 1.4A from psu. Then as I decrease the voltage - current/brightness drops too, driver slowly stops working and then completely turns off at 5v (another good thing, light will turn off even if protection pcb in battery will fail to activate).
    If I increase/decrease voltage between 5 and 7v - brightness will change too.

    So thats what steelhmr noticed in his discharge test, sorry for the kinda long explanation

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    Run Test No. 2

    Setup

    1. KD Light facing away from fan.
    2. 82 degrees F.
    3. 'High' setting used throughout entirety of test.

    Results

    1. I started this test too late.
    2. 2:09 of runtime until UI lights changed color.
    3. 2:45 abandoned test as I needed to sleep.
    4. Some change in light output noticed between 2:30 and 2:45 (might not have come across as well in the pics).

    Pics

    Note: Unit was facing a wall with a mirror during the test so I turned unit towards a different wall for pics. Sorry for mild inconsistency in pics. Just used my cell phone (Samsung S3 with 'low-light' setting). Wall was 13' from the light. I believe you can see the light output drop slightly between 2:10 an 2:30 (look toward the outside of the pattern). Same for 2:30 to 2:45. I really just wanted to see when the first change was on this test. Images are probably best viewed by opening first link and then hitting the left arrow on the pic(s).

    Initial,
    2:01,
    2:10,
    2:30,
    2:45,

    (Sorry for living in the stone age with photo bucket. I'll try to host these somewhere else as I just noticed the ads, yeesh.)
    Last edited by steelhmr; 08-09-2013 at 04:51 AM.

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    My thoughts about the test done by Steelhmr: Something very odd going on. Even with auto-power down no two-LED lamp should run for 4hrs unless the lamp was on mid-mode at the start and then powered down at some point. Even then the output of the lamp has to be called in question. Typical run times on high should be between 2.5-3 hr. and that with good batteries. Even with the lamp on mid-mode 4hrs would be excellent run time.

    Nice that this lamp has auto-power down. Most Chinese made lamps don't have this feature.

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    Well, I'm not keen on running too many more tests, but for the next one I will setup a better location where I don't have to reposition the light for pics. Additionally, I will take a reference pic with the Lumina 650 to compare it against. One comment about the pics, the hot spot comes across exaggerated in those pics. In real life the unit doesn't cast a virtual full moon against the wall.

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    Something about the 880 clones that I noticed tonight while looking at both the Kaidomain and D/X web sites.; The K/D models claim to have a 2800ma driver, the D/X ( Ultrafire D-50 ) claim to have a 1800ma driver and output 580 lumen. This could be a misstatement on D/X's part but there is really no way to know for sure.

    All things considered, if i was going to buy one I would most likely buy from Kaidomain because theirs has the more powerful driver. Then again if Kaidomain runs out of stock who's to say they don't restock with a lamp that might have another lower-powered driver. Stuff like this happens. If Steelhmr has one with a less powerful driver than all his tests are with a lamp that is outputting something around 600 lumen. I'm just mentioning this because it is a possibility.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Something about the 880 clones that I noticed tonight while looking at both the Kaidomain and D/X web sites.; The K/D models claim to have a 2800ma driver, the D/X ( Ultrafire D-50 ) claim to have a 1800ma driver and output 580 lumen. This could be a misstatement on D/X's part but there is really no way to know for sure.

    All things considered, if i was going to buy one I would most likely buy from Kaidomain because theirs has the more powerful driver. Then again if Kaidomain runs out of stock who's to say they don't restock with a lamp that might have another lower-powered driver. Stuff like this happens. If Steelhmr has one with a less powerful driver than all his tests are with a lamp that is outputting something around 600 lumen. I'm just mentioning this because it is a possibility.
    Cat,

    Isn't it equally possible that they just supplied this light with a very strong battery pack? It essentially runs on high for slightly over 2 hours and then gradually fades out. It's hard imagine that this is a 600 lumen light since I have a Lumina 650 (rated and tested at 650 lumens) to directly compare it to. The KD unit blows away the Lumina in terms of brightness (and every other property one would want in a light). Sorry that I don't have the equipment to test the output, but Kir already tested it and gave his findings on the first page of this thread. I'm just reporting my experience from a less electronics-savy and more from a user-experience perspective. My next task will be to take shootout-style pics with the proper camera and terrain settings. That should tell a better picture (no pun intended).

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    Quote Originally Posted by steelhmr View Post
    Isn't it equally possible that they just supplied this light with a very strong battery pack?
    Possible, well anything's possible. Probable, no way. These are cheap bike lights that have cut lots of corners to get a very low price point. Great value all in all but not top level output nor top quality components.

    I have not worked on this particular light model but have repaired a couple MS lights so I have seen how cheap lights are made.

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    Quote Originally Posted by steelhmr View Post
    Cat,

    Isn't it equally possible that they just supplied this light with a very strong battery pack? It essentially runs on high for slightly over 2 hours and then gradually fades out. It's hard imagine that this is a 600 lumen light since I have a Lumina 650 (rated and tested at 650 lumens) to directly compare it to. The KD unit blows away the Lumina in terms of brightness (and every other property one would want in a light). Sorry that I don't have the equipment to test the output, but Kir already tested it and gave his findings on the first page of this thread. I'm just reporting my experience from a less electronics-savy and more from a user-experience perspective. My next task will be to take shootout-style pics with the proper camera and terrain settings. That should tell a better picture (no pun intended).
    Sorry, I didn't want it to sound like I didn't believe what you were saying. If you say it blows away the Lumina I believe you. At least it's nice to hear positive feedback even if the results are somewhat unusual. All things considered if I were in the market for a good Chinese made lamp I might choose one of these ( or one of the Solorstorm X2's ) Good positive feedback from both lamps.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Sorry, I didn't want it to sound like I didn't believe what you were saying. If you say it blows away the Lumina I believe you. At least it's nice to hear positive feedback even if the results are somewhat unusual. All things considered if I were in the market for a good Chinese made lamp I might choose one of these ( or one of the Solorstorm X2's ) Good positive feedback from both lamps.
    Cat,

    No offense taken at all. I can only report what I have observed. I share the same tempered enthusiasm for the light. During the first test at 2:00 I was all fistpumps. At 2:30 I think let out an audible "woo-hoo". By 3:00 I switched to "hmmm" and at 3:30 I knew something wasn't adding up. On the 2nd test my goal was to see if the light output visually changed through the first two hours on the high setting and my observation is that it did not. After 2:09, it does begin to change but I can't begin to quantify it without any additional electronics equipment. I hope that when I can produce shootout pics it will be obvious to everyone that this light is putting out a very respectable beam, at least compared to the Lumina 650. And before any questions begin to surface about the integrity of THAT light, I have two of them to use for comparison

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    looks like a tactical flashlight beam pattern. aren't there bike mounts for Fenix tactical flashlights ? you would be able to use your own 18650 cells and charger, and you could take it hiking, or look for stuff under the bed, or survive a blackout.

    its crazy though how they were able to include so much in the package at the price - it's like they are selling the product for the cost of what the components cost - how do they make a profit ?

    the Chinese never cease to amaze me - from the amount of clones they put out you would have guessed it must have taken 10 planets the size of Earth to produce it all.

    and considering the real products that they are cloning are also made in China it makes you wonder how are they able to undercut the real deal by 4X in price ? the Chinese seem to defy any sort of rational analysis - or maybe i'm just not smart enough to understand them.

    i do think the established companies suffer a bit from over-engineering. since they don't compete on price their engineering efforts end up directed at problems that don't really exist. this is especially true of German companies who spend 90% of their energy solving imaginary non-existent problems. for example the Porsche 918 has 55 computers just to control the drivetrain ... apparently somebody in Germany was bored.

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    Quote Originally Posted by androgen View Post
    looks like a tactical flashlight beam pattern.
    I just want to say that I wouldn't take too much away from those pics in terms of the actual beam pattern.

    1. I mainly used to pics to compare among themselves as to whether the brightness of the light was changing over the course of the 2nd test.
    2. It was indoors with white walls from 13 feet away.
    3. The pictures seemed to exaggerate the contrast between the hot spot and the rest of the beam. I don't feel that it is as drastic of a difference in person as it appears in the pics.

    Perhaps it does mimic that of a tactical beam pattern to some degree. I just wanted to state that my purpose of those indoor pics was simply to compare the brightness during different times of the test. I'll try to get outdoor pics soon, but I just had a crash today and (slightly) bent my rear rim so it just dropped down a notch on my to do list

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    Wish they sell the head only

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    Can anyone speak to whether the battery holder will fit in this pouch?

    Action-LED-Lights ? 4 Cell Battery Case

  52. #52
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    It will.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HakanC View Post
    KD sells the battery separately 17,40 USD
    http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S021564
    Now there is one more version of the same battery at KD, slightly cheaper too
    http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S022419


    /Håkan
    SWEDEN

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    Quote Originally Posted by HakanC View Post
    Now there is one more version of the same battery at KD, slightly cheaper too
    http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S022419


    /Håkan
    SWEDEN
    What about this one:http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S021637

    6 x 18650 Waterproof Battery Set for Bicycle Light
    Voltage: 8.4V
    Capacity: 8800mAh (Manufacturer rated)


    Too good to be true?

  55. #55
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    Expect about 4700-4800mAh from it. 6000mAh is you're very lucky.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kir View Post
    Expect about 4700-4800mAh from it. 6000mAh is you're very lucky.
    Thanks. I kind of figured that the 8800 figure needed a bit of translating. 4800 would not be bad at all for that price though. Or, I could go with the one Hakan posted and replace the cells?

  57. #57
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    Replacing the cells will be better, but more expensive.
    If you don't mind extra size and weight of chinese 6x18650/8x18650 batteries - buy them, they usually have good capacity just because they're using more cells.

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    Quote Originally Posted by steelhmr View Post
    Thanks. I kind of figured that the 8800 figure needed a bit of translating. 4800 would not be bad at all for that price though. Or, I could go with the one Hakan posted and replace the cells?
    I would go to 4x 3000-3400mAh panasonics from fasttech or lipo from hobbyking .

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    I have found that most of the batteries from Kaidomain are hit or miss ( see my posts in the battery thread).
    Buying a good, solid battery from Xeccon or Action is what I would suggest.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    I would go to 4x 3000-3400mAh panasonics from fasttech or lipo from hobbyking .
    When replacing batteries you really do have to consider your need for more run time. No sense in buying the most expensive batteries if you typically only ride 2-2.5 hrs. in the dark. You can still buy good ( Sanyo or Samsung ) 2600 to 2800mAh cells at bargain prices and you will be surprised at how well they will work. Currently I use a 4-cell battery that was built with either Sanyo 2600's or Baks. ( 3 yr old Bikeray battery ) This makes the battery 5200mAh. I've been very pleased using these batteries and have never had a problem with run times. Now if you are running a lamp with three or more emitters than you will need a bigger battery ( if you want 3 or more hours of run time.)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    When replacing batteries you really do have to consider your need for more run time.
    I considered the longest run time implicitly but you are right. If you don't need that much run time go for 2600-2800 or even good 2200-2400. I am going to power 2 SS X2 and Skyray S6 (perhaps) from one battery (8000 mAh lipo) - the bigger the better for me :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    When replacing batteries you really do have to consider your need for more run time. No sense in buying the most expensive batteries if you typically only ride 2-2.5 hrs. in the dark. You can still buy good ( Sanyo or Samsung ) 2600 to 2800mAh cells at bargain prices and you will be surprised at how well they will work. Currently I use a 4-cell battery that was built with either Sanyo 2600's or Baks. ( 3 yr old Bikeray battery ) This makes the battery 5200mAh. I've been very pleased using these batteries and have never had a problem with run times. Now if you are running a lamp with three or more emitters than you will need a bigger battery ( if you want 3 or more hours of run time.)
    Yeah, I am going to wait until my new light arrives before making any decisions. I am very pleased with the light output and run time of my KD 2 XML-U2. The new light is 3x and I am anticipating the possibility that I may (only) be paying for a lighthead and charger with a sup-par battery. My current need is only for a 2hr or less run time, but next year I will be doing races that include multiple night laps so I may need more power (or batteries) in either case.

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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Ordered a clone and the Action LED lens for the 880 with high hopes that it will fit and give me a bright flood for my bars. I don't suppose anyone's already attempted this combo?

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    Quote Originally Posted by scvkurt03 View Post
    Ordered a clone and the Action LED lens for the 880 with high hopes that it will fit and give me a bright flood for my bars. I don't suppose anyone's already attempted this combo?
    I saw your post in the other thread. Did you order the XML-T6 version (https://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S021414) or the XML-U2 version (https://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S021518)?

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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Quote Originally Posted by steelhmr View Post
    I saw your post in the other thread. Did you order the XML-T6 version (http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S021414) or the XML-U2 version (http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S021518)?
    The black U2 version. That's the newer version, right? http://kaidomain.com/Product/Details.S021521

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    Quote Originally Posted by scvkurt03 View Post
    The black U2 version. That's the newer version, right? http://kaidomain.com/Product/Details.S021521
    Yeah, that's the newer/better one. On the other thread you had linked to the T6 version. I have the black U2 version as well and I'm curious to read what you have to say about it when the time comes.

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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Yeah - I linked that before I ordered. I'll definitely post back in this thread with my thoughts on the light and the lenses.

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    Quote Originally Posted by scvkurt03 View Post
    Yeah - I linked that before I ordered. I'll definitely post back in this thread with my thoughts on the light and the lenses.
    Nice. I think as more and more questionable SSX2's hit the market, people will start getting over their $50+ fear and start giving this unit a harder look. The extra $10-$15 appears to go a long way.

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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Quote Originally Posted by steelhmr View Post
    Nice. I think as more and more questionable SSX2's hit the market, people will start getting over their $50+ fear and start giving this unit a harder look. The extra $10-$15 appears to go a long way.
    Well, I have one of those on the way too. I bought that one looking for a light, low profile helmet light. A friend ordered the version on amazon and is pretty happy with it so hopefully Ill get a good one. Fingers crossed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by scvkurt03 View Post
    Well, I have one of those on the way too. I bought that one looking for a light, low profile helmet light. A friend ordered the version on amazon and is pretty happy with it so hopefully Ill get a good one. Fingers crossed.
    Then you can be the one to do a direct comparison between the two. I have nothing against the SSX2, but as the price continues to go down, I am reading about more and more shortcomings (unit and/or battery).

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    Quote Originally Posted by steelhmr View Post
    I have nothing against the SSX2, but as the price continues to go down, I am reading about more and more shortcomings (unit and/or battery).
    I bought 2 SS X2 heads since I could not find these MJ880 clone heads alone. I pretty much don't like that li-ion cells lottery from CN :-(

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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    I bought 2 SS X2 heads since I could not find these MJ880 clone heads alone. I pretty much don't like that li-ion cells lottery from CN :-(
    Pretty much doesn't matter who you buy these from, the battery quality will always be questionable. This is also true of the lamp heads as well because time and time again we see a lack of standard quality controls with the mass produced Chinese lamps. You accept all this before you decide to roll the dice. A better battery you can always buy and use with any number of lamps but if the lamp is crap or doesn't meet your expectations than you rolled a snake eyes. Just remember, everyone has different expectations. What makes someone else happy might not please you at all.

    If you really wanted the 880 clone you should of bought one and not worried that you couldn't just buy the lamp head alone. While you might have saved $10 doing it that way it wouldn't be like you didn't get anything for the extra $10 of buying one with battery. Even if you don't like the cheap battery it will probably still work and still be there if you need a back-up. You just can't ( or shouldn't ) rely upon it as your primary voltage source. Regardless, once you know it's limitations it can still be of use.

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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    So, Cat, what's the most cost effective way to get a good, reliable battery? Make one? Buy from Action LED?

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    Quote Originally Posted by scvkurt03 View Post
    So, Cat, what's the most cost effective way to get a good, reliable battery? Make one? Buy from Action LED?
    Not sure I can answer that. Probably best to shop around. I'm sure the list I started over on the Battery Thread back in January is out of date. Both Action LED and Xeccon offer some good deals on batteries but I'm sure there must be other places. Been a while since I've done a price survey on bike batteries.

    Personally, if I were looking for a good four cell battery I want at least 5200mAh capacity but would prefer something higher like 5600, 5800, 6200 or 6800mAh
    Hard to find a decent price on a 4-cell battery made with higher capacity Sanyo, Samsung or Panasonic cells.

    If you don't mind fiddling around with loose cells you could try one of those 4-cell holders and buy some decent quality cells to go into it. Not what I would do but it certainly can work if you don't mind the inconvenience of messing with a cell holder.

    If you can find a good 4-cell 5600 or 5800mAh battery ( Samsung or Sanyo ) in the $50 USD range that would be a good place to start. If you want more capacity ( > 6000mAh ) the best deals are with 6-cells ( although 6-cell batteries are heavier than 4-cells, thus the lower cost ). Xeccon lighting has some good deals on those.

    If I had the money I'd buy one of the 4-cell ( Panasonic cells ) Gloworm batteries ( Action LED ) but those are not cheap. On the other hand Xeccon has a very good price on a Samsung 6-cell (7800mAh ) . Hard to beat the price on those. I don't know why there is such a price jump with 4-cells once you go over 4400mAh.

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    looking at fins on Chinese lights makes you wonder if Chinese people understand what fins are for ?

    i wonder if Chinese have ever seen an air conditioner or a car radiator and asked themselves why the fins are a fraction of a millimeter on them but are maybe 1/4 inch on the lights they're making ?

    the objective of fins is to add surface area, unless you're a Chinese light maker then apparently the objective is to add dead weight.

    if these guys built an air conditioner with fins like that it would take up the whole room and weigh 10,000 pounds.

    sorry, lol, but i just find it funny.

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    D/X Versions Of the 880 clone; More than one type

    Tonight while looking over the D/X stuff I noticed that D/X has a couple versions of the 880 clone. If you want the one with the best features ( U2 emitters, high output, 4-modes ( including press to hold strobe ),..) This "Nitefire" version is the one you want if you are buying from D/X. D/X has at least three other versions with different brand names. While less expensive most of those are only listing 580 lumen. I don't think you want one of those.

    I also noticed that D/X is trying to be a little more honest about the output and battery listing...( sometimes ). The Nitefire version is listing the output around 1200 Lumen which is probably accurate. They also list the battery at 3000mAh, also probably accurate. This is a nice trend.

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    Quote Originally Posted by androgen View Post
    looking at fins on Chinese lights makes you wonder if Chinese people understand what fins are for ?

    i wonder if Chinese have ever seen an air conditioner or a car radiator and asked themselves why the fins are a fraction of a millimeter on them but are maybe 1/4 inch on the lights they're making ?

    the objective of fins is to add surface area, unless you're a Chinese light maker then apparently the objective is to add dead weight.

    if these guys built an air conditioner with fins like that it would take up the whole room and weigh 10,000 pounds.

    sorry, lol, but i just find it funny.
    I am sure that the Chinese understand heat transfer and the need for it on a light. They also understand the economics of making a lamp housing for really low cost. That low cost requirement is what drives the profile of the lamp. Fewer, thicker fins are far easier/cheaper to produce whether by extrusion or machining.

    A side effect of the thicker fin design that likely did not occur to the designer is that a thicker fin is less likely to cut a user in the event of contact in a crash.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    I am sure that the Chinese understand heat transfer and the need for it on a light. They also understand the economics of making a lamp housing for really low cost. That low cost requirement is what drives the profile of the lamp. Fewer, thicker fins are far easier/cheaper to produce whether by extrusion or machining.

    A side effect of the thicker fin design that likely did not occur to the designer is that a thicker fin is less likely to cut a user in the event of contact in a crash.
    the thing is most lights on the market that have fins on them either have no real need for fins or don't derive any serious benefit from the ineffective fins that they do have. this is true for both chinese and "good" lights like lupine.

    for example i have had Lupine Piko - and i'm pretty sure if it didn't have fins there would be no difference in performance whatsoever.

    in other words, with the exception of very good, high-output lights, the fins on most lights are primarily for decoration. this is the same situation as spoilers on cars - they are for decoration on most cars, with the exception of cars capable of hitting 180 mph or so.

    now just because a spoiler isn't needed, doesn't mean you can't add one, as long as it is conservative and doesn't interfere with performance, like so:



    same with fins:



    and then you have trash like this:



    which serves no useful purpose except adding weight, aerodynamic drag, raising your center of gravity and making it hard to open the trunk.

    and this is pretty much what fins look like on 3 out of 4 chinese lights, conservatively speaking.

    now of course you can still drive a car even with that *thing* plastered on top of it, and you can still use a light with those fins ...

    but i find it difficult to use the word "engineering" to describe this mess. the word that comes to mind is "ret4rdation" ...

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    Fins add area for heat dissipation. Their location and dimensions do affect their efficiency, but in most all cases will improve heat management. Can fins improve aesthetics? Sure, but the side effect will also be to improve cooling.

    1 sq inch area per watt of LED will keep a light cool with moderate airflow (>6-7 mph) in 60 degree F temps. 2 sq inches per watt drops the airflow reqirement to a walking pace. My current helmet light is 18 watts on it's high setting with 14 sq inches area. It still works but only because on everything except fast trail sections I run on medium

  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Fins add area for heat dissipation. Their location and dimensions do affect their efficiency, but in most all cases will improve heat management. Can fins improve aesthetics? Sure, but the side effect will also be to improve cooling.

    1 sq inch area per watt of LED will keep a light cool with moderate airflow (>6-7 mph) in 60 degree F temps. 2 sq inches per watt drops the airflow reqirement to a walking pace. My current helmet light is 18 watts on it's high setting with 14 sq inches area. It still works but only because on everything except fast trail sections I run on medium
    chinese fins do not significantly increase area. most of the area on chinese lights comes from the enormous size of these lights compared to something like Lupine of same output.

    L&M Seca is the only light where fins are 100% functional. The fins are about 80% functional on NiteRider Pro 3600 / 1800. About 60 functional on Betty / Wilma and mostly for decoration on other lights including Piko where they are 100% for decoration.

    most metal-bodied lights do not need fins at all. it is only high-output plastic-bodied lights like Seca where the fins are 100% functional. a metal chinese light that is heavy as a tire iron and puts out 500 lumens doesn't need fins - they're just there because Chinese like to make products resemble the real thing - that's why they have "adidos" sneakers and "abble" iPhone chargers. they have been doing the same thing for decades.

    if you think those fins serve a function you might as well believe that "abble" and "adidos" are words in chinese.

  81. #81
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    Re: K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Love ppl saying cause its made in China and such it can't work. Has nothing to do with where its made its how it made. So many of the lights I see out have Chinese copies, many of which are the exact same thing from the same factory but with crappy parts like chargers and batteries.

    Best to have knowledge of all this before trying to bash products. So much of anything is made in China just the cheaper stuff has no stickers where as the way overpriced stuff has a brand name sticker on it.

    Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using Tapatalk 2

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Love ppl saying cause its made in China and such it can't work. Has nothing to do with where its made its how it made. So many of the lights I see out have Chinese copies, many of which are the exact same thing from the same factory but with crappy parts like chargers and batteries.

    Best to have knowledge of all this before trying to bash products. So much of anything is made in China just the cheaper stuff has no stickers where as the way overpriced stuff has a brand name sticker on it.

    Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using Tapatalk 2
    yes you figured it all out. everybody who buys brand name products is an id1ot and you are a genius and outsmarted us all. congratulations !

  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by androgen View Post
    chinese fins do not significantly increase area. most of the area on chinese lights comes from the enormous size of these lights compared to something like Lupine.
    So the country of origin has some effect on how fins add area or not???? So just to make sure basic math has not been overlooked, let's look at the following example. A flat surface of a length and width of one inch is one square inch of area. Now put fins on that one by one surface that are an eighth inch tall and wide with a groove between fins also an eighth inch wide. That will give you four fins. The surface area is now two square inches. 100% more area is a substantial gain and in some instances important. Whether a light needs fins or not is merely a function of what it's power to heat dissipation area ratio is, not country of manufacture.

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    So the country of origin has some effect on how fins add area or not???? So just to make sure basic math has not been overlooked, let's look at the following example. A flat surface of a length and width of one inch is one square inch of area. Now put fins on that one by one surface that are an eighth inch tall and wide with a groove between fins also an eighth inch wide. That will give you four fins. The surface area is now two square inches. 100% more area is a substantial gain and in some instances important. Whether a light needs fins or not is merely a function of what it's power to heat dissipation area ratio is, not country of manufacture.
    how hot does this light get anyway ? if it gets so hot you can barely touch it while riding at 10+ mph then it needs those fins. if not - it doesn't.

    i don't think i buy the idea that properly shaped fins would be that difficult to manufacture however. the more logical explanation is that the people who put the fins there simply didn't care about what they were doing, and frankly, if i was working for 10 cents an hour i wouldn't care either.

    my father once bought a chinese clamp in a 99 cents store that said 4" on it, but the actual size of the clamp was 3" ... i want to see what kind of formulas you can come up with to explain to me that 3 inches equals 4 inches. LOL.

    this is what chinese stuff is like. they have no incentive to make good honest products NONE because they don't have any brand name to protect. they don't care if the light works or not. tomorrow they will sell the same light under a different name and people will again buy it because it will be 10 times cheaper than a real light from a real company.

    i don't care if a company is chinese or german. i care about the brand name. DOES IT HAVE ONE ? Huawei is a chinese company that has a brand name. are their phones good ? no. but at least they TRY to make a good phone because they have a brand name that people recognize and they want to protect that brand name.

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    There is a new 2x XM-L2-U2 from Kaidomain. Light head only. Looks very nice: http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022462

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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Love ppl saying cause its made in China and such it can't work. Has nothing to do with where its made its how it made. So many of the lights I see out have Chinese copies, many of which are the exact same thing from the same factory but with crappy parts like chargers and batteries.

    Best to have knowledge of all this before trying to bash products. So much of anything is made in China just the cheaper stuff has no stickers where as the way overpriced stuff has a brand name sticker on it.
    Yes, yes, when can talk till the cows come home about how cheap the Chinese products are. Just remember, just like anywhere else in the world the people who design the products are not the one's that make it. What makes a high quality product has to do with design, quality parts and skilled people to put all the stuff together and then very good quality control parameters to make sure every product makes the grade. ( *Truthfully, be glad the Chinese DON'T follow strict quality control because if they did the cost would be 3x as much )...

    Most of the Chinese lamps I see being sold look very simplistic. I don't doubt that many corners are cut putting these together but if you look back at where all this started with the release of the MagicShine lamps, design and function have changed in those few years since and improvements are seen in some of the stuff now being sold. ( That's why we talk about and review these things to find out which are crap and which are okay ) Quality control is likely still crap but if the product is designed better you will more likely get a better product ( most of the time ).

    Just keep in mind; these lamps are designed for quick inexpensive sale and are not designed to meet the standards used in a Space shuttle program. Some will be good and some will suck but few will be great. You're buying something that cost about what you would spend for a tank of gas. That tank of gas might last you a couple weeks if you're lucky. If your generic Chinese lamp last you a season you should consider this as getting your monies worth. The rule is; The more you invest in your purchase the more you can ( or should ) expect to get out of it.

    In the mean time, if the fins only partly function and the two emitters only put out 1000 lumen ( vs. the claimed 1800 lumen ) and the battery only last you a year....Smile, 1000 lumen is a hell of a good output to ride with. If it cost you $40 or less and still works after a year you made out like a bandit.

    Choosing the right Chinese lamp for bike use is like choosing the cheapest pi**-water beer to get a drunk on with. Some are a little better than others but all will get you drunk. As we all know, " Drinking something that taste better is always preferable. This equates to having a lamp that works better but is still inexpensive.
    Last edited by Cat-man-do; 09-02-2013 at 03:11 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by androgen View Post
    how hot does this light get anyway ? if it gets so hot you can barely touch it while riding at 10+ mph then it needs those fins. if not - it doesn't.

    i don't think i buy the idea that properly shaped fins would be that difficult to manufacture however. the more logical explanation is that the people who put the fins there simply didn't care about what they were doing, and frankly, if i was working for 10 cents an hour i wouldn't care either.

    my father once bought a chinese clamp in a 99 cents store that said 4" on it, but the actual size of the clamp was 3" ... i want to see what kind of formulas you can come up with to explain to me that 3 inches equals 4 inches. LOL.

    this is what chinese stuff is like. they have no incentive to make good honest products NONE because they don't have any brand name to protect. they don't care if the light works or not. tomorrow they will sell the same light under a different name and people will again buy it because it will be 10 times cheaper than a real light from a real company.

    i don't care if a company is chinese or german. i care about the brand name. DOES IT HAVE ONE ? Huawei is a chinese company that has a brand name. are their phones good ? no. but at least they TRY to make a good phone because they have a brand name that people recognize and they want to protect that brand name.
    XMLs produce a lot of heat and performance drops significantly without some form of cooling. How hot a bike light is to touch is irrelevant as it depends on the internal thermal pathway and how much aluminium mass the heat has to pass through.
    Considering bike lights are relatively small and are now coming with multi-emitters, any form of thermal cooling will have an impact on performance and heatfins make a difference, especially with air flow. For best effect they need to be placed as close to the emitter as possible with a good direct thermal pathway, providing the light has been well designed heatfins make a difference.

    If you haven't already you might want to read up on a forum such as budgetlightforum, plenty of testing done on that site.

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by whokilledJR View Post
    XMLs produce a lot of heat and performance drops significantly without some form of cooling. How hot a bike light is to touch is irrelevant as it depends on the internal thermal pathway and how much aluminium mass the heat has to pass through.
    Considering bike lights are relatively small and are now coming with multi-emitters, any form of thermal cooling will have an impact on performance and heatfins make a difference, especially with air flow. For best effect they need to be placed as close to the emitter as possible with a good direct thermal pathway, providing the light has been well designed heatfins make a difference.

    If you haven't already you might want to read up on a forum such as budgetlightforum, plenty of testing done on that site.
    as i said heatsink fins are like spoilers on a car. sometimes they're functional:



    sometimes they are aesthetic:



    and sometimes they are pointless and ridiculous:



    you don't need to tell me what heatsink fins or spoilers are for. i have a degree in electrical engineering. i am telling you to know the difference between the 3 types. this way next time somebody tries to sell you a 20 year old rusty diesel pickup truck with five spoilers on the roof you won't think that it's a formula 1 ...

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelhmr View Post
    There is a new 2x XM-L2-U2 from Kaidomain. Light head only. Looks very nice: http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022462
    Thats a completely different light, don't mix it up with MJ880 clones.
    Original is called JEXREE Owl:
    HIGH POWER LED PORTABLE-LIGHT SERIES
    It has nice SMD-leds glowrings around the main led's reflectors which serve as parking/daytime lights and also look very cool
    It also uses XM-L2 leds, has very high brightness maximum mode and good thermal transfer to outer case.

    There is also a JEXREE Bat with 3 xml leds:
    10PCS/LOT JEXREE High Power CREE 3x L2 LED 4000Lumen High Power Headlight Bike Bicycle Light +battery and charger-in Headlamps from Lights & Lighting on Aliexpress.com

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kir View Post
    Thats a completely different light, don't mix it up with MJ880 clones.
    Original is called JEXREE Owl:
    HIGH POWER LED PORTABLE-LIGHT SERIES
    It has nice SMD-leds glowrings around the main led's reflectors which serve as parking/daytime lights and also look very cool
    It also uses XM-L2 leds, has very high brightness maximum mode and good thermal transfer to outer case.
    parking / daytime lights ? say what ?

    are they for real ?

    these people ...

    Light & Motion put side marker lights on some of their low-end headlights as well as on their tail lights, but what could possibly be the point of having a marker light facing FORWARD when there is already a light there ?

    these people ...

    i'm sure when they design their products they're sure rich Americans will buy them for their 6 year olds to play with. i don't think the Chinese have any idea that fully grown adults play with these toys themselves !

    ugh ... no words LOL

  91. #91
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    Because 1) they don't blind people in front of you 2) they can be seen from sides 3) they can be set up to blinking mode + main lights on low, that increases your visibility.
    Don't complain about these led rings, imo thats a great idea.

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    It is getting little out of topic, the topic was the MJ880 clone, not the other lights, heatsink fins and sportscars :-)

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    It is getting little out of topic, the topic was the MJ880 clone, not the other lights, heatsink fins and sportscars :-)
    OK OK

    i'll try to stop

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    Quote Originally Posted by androgen View Post

    you don't need to tell me what heatsink fins or spoilers are for. i have a degree in electrical engineering. i am telling you to know the difference between the 3 types. this way next time somebody tries to sell you a 20 year old rusty diesel pickup truck with five spoilers on the roof you won't think that it's a formula 1 ...
    Fair enough, although the part of your text I was replying to left a different impression.

  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    So the country of origin has some effect on how fins add area or not????
    This has been established previous on MTBR.
    Thin Finnish fins win.

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    Quote Originally Posted by scvkurt03 View Post
    Ordered a clone and the Action LED lens for the 880 with high hopes that it will fit and give me a bright flood for my bars. I don't suppose anyone's already attempted this combo?
    Hi there! I bought the same lamp. Now I would like to know: Did it work with the reflector? If yes, what was the result?

    I really hope so very much!

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by tish! View Post
    Hi there! I bought the same lamp. Now I would like to know: Did it work with the reflector? If yes, what was the result?

    I really hope so very much!
    I've yet to receive the light. I'll post here when I get it...

  98. #98
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    These flood type lenses might work with other ( two reflector ) lamps as well. I think you'll like the output just as it is but if you feel you need more flood likely you will only need to replace one lens. If you use two it will likely kill the throw particularly when in the lower output levels.

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    Good news, I got the light today! Bad news, the lenses look way too small. Worse news...well:K/D  2 x XML, MJ880 Clone-broken-cord.jpg

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    Is that the way it came, or did it just snap off? I thought this was a quality light.

  101. #101
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    Quality? From chinese light?
    Open it up and resolder wires to driver's pcb, its easy:
    https://i.imgur.com/00TSyMuh.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by scvkurt03 View Post
    Good news, I got the light today! Bad news, the lenses look way too small. Worse news...well:Click image for larger version. 

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    Awe man, bummer. That's some solar storm-level nonsense there

  103. #103
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    That's how it came. It came in a bag in a box with the rest of the stuff. The bag has a hole in it, and the box is scuffed up. Everything else seems fine, though. I've wired it back together. We'll see how long it holds up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by scvkurt03 View Post
    Good news, I got the light today! Bad news, the lenses look way too small. Worse news...well:Click image for larger version. 

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    Thx for the quick feedback! Damn, really hope you can fix the light. I 'm looking forward to my "modular"...

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    I am also thinking of ordering another light to compare it with Solarstorm X2. Does anyone have light mentioned in this topic and X2 and can compare them?

    Also this one looks interesting:
    http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022462
    Anyone tried it yet?

    I would like to try XML2 light, but there is not too many to chose from (suitable for helmet use). Is difference between xml u2 and xml2 noticable?

  106. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snakes View Post
    I am also thinking of ordering another light to compare it with Solarstorm X2. Does anyone have light mentioned in this topic and X2 and can compare them?
    I have both, but I've yet to go on a ride with them. The 880 clone has a smoother progression from its hot spot to the edges, but that's expected from an OP reflector. The smooth reflectors on the SS X2 are a weak point. There are hitches and gaps in the beam pattern.

    At 100% they're really pretty comparable in brightness - plenty bright for any trail riding I'll be doing. There's a big gap between mid and high with the SS X2 and a big gap between low and mid with the 880 clone. I do like the UI of the 880 clone much more. One switch for power, one to toggle between modes. The X2 goes dark after high, with its one button.

    I'll write up some more after I go for my first ride, though that probably won't be until next week. Damn that whole 'having to earn my paycheck' thing!

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    Quote Originally Posted by scvkurt03 View Post
    That's how it came. It came in a bag in a box with the rest of the stuff. The bag has a hole in it, and the box is scuffed up. Everything else seems fine, though. I've wired it back together. We'll see how long it holds up.
    Ridiculous!

    How's the beam shape on this thing?

    I'm looking forward to your review.

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    Does anyone have a photo of the clone next to a real MJ-880?
    I just saw my first MJ-880 in person last week and was impressed by how small it was.
    But the clone isn't the exact same, so I'm curious how it compares in overall size.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fightnut View Post
    Does anyone have a photo of the clone next to a real MJ-880?
    I just saw my first MJ-880 in person last week and was impressed by how small it was.
    But the clone isn't the exact same, so I'm curious how it compares in overall size.
    I can take measurents when I get home, but the unit is definitely small. I can't imagine it being much smaller for a 2x unit. Additionally, I believe the lighthead unit itself weighs 135 grams.

  110. #110
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    I've had a couple of night rides on my SSX2 and this 880 clone, now, and I have to say that I'm pretty happy with the combination.

    The 880 clone has a smooth beam patten with a gradual transition from spot to flood. Perfect for running on the bars. Low mode was great for climbing, and high was super bright, giving me no pause for speed on a couple of descents I'm fairly familiar with, though have only ridden a few times at night. The UI is great - one button for on/off, and another for low/mid/high (hold for strobe). Really, really like it, except for it being delivered with a severed cord. On my latest (longer) ride, I went for a two hour ride at dusk, ran it on low for an hour, and high for a half hour and never had it change from green.

    The SSX2 was good, but not great. Their low and high intensities were pretty similar, but the mid on the 880 clone was much, much brighter than the SSX2. Often, I ran the X2 on mid while I had the 880 clone on low. Side by side, the X2 beam was brighter, but since the X2 was on my helmet, I had to have it brighter for it to not be overpowered by my bar light. On full bright, the X2 was great in the short to mid range, but diffused too much beyond 20 feet or so.

    The other issue I had with the SSX2 is the beam pattern. My smooth reflector has a little lip in the middle (a defect), which causes a slightly darker spot in the middle of the hot spot. I'll bet it'd be just fine if it didn't have that problem.

    In short, this is a pretty good setup for the kind of riding I'll be doing. I might be on the lookout for a helmet mount with better throw, though.
    Last edited by kragu; 10-02-2013 at 07:16 AM.

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    Interesting. I'm planning on using the 2x on my helmet with a 3x on my bars. On my short rides so far with both mounted on the bar (3x aimed downward, 2x aimed straight out), I was very pleased with the throw of the 2x. Add to that, since a helmet light has to be versatile to see both long distance and near distance (such as navigating through turns), this light seems ideal. I guess I won't know exactly how ideal it is though until I actually mount it to the helmet.

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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Quote Originally Posted by steelhmr View Post
    Interesting. I'm planning on using the 2x on my helmet with a 3x on my bars. On my short rides so far with both mounted on the bar (3x aimed downward, 2x aimed straight out), I was very pleased with the throw of the 2x. Add to that, since a helmet light has to be versatile to see both long distance and near distance (such as navigating through turns), this light seems ideal. I guess I won't know exactly how ideal it is though until I actually mount it to the helmet.
    The other issue I had with the SSX2 is the beam pattern. My smooth reflector has a little lip in the middle (a defect), which causes a slightly darker spot in the middle of the hot spot. I'll bet it'd be just fine if it didn't have that problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by scvkurt03 View Post
    The other issue I had with the SSX2 is the beam pattern. My smooth reflector has a little lip in the middle (a defect), which causes a slightly darker spot in the middle of the hot spot. I'll bet it'd be just fine if it didn't have that problem.
    You should add this to your previous post. Also, for reference, when I use '2x' here I am referring to the K/D 880 clone. I've never used a SSX2, but I am very much interested in how the 2x compares to the SSX2 and other similar lights. I just didn't want to confuse other people who might be reading this, or myself

  114. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by scvkurt03 View Post
    The other issue I had with the SSX2 is the beam pattern. My smooth reflector has a little lip in the middle (a defect), which causes a slightly darker spot in the middle of the hot spot. I'll bet it'd be just fine if it didn't have that problem.
    I just order one on KD too. Coud you give me please the diameter of the lense from the Kaidomain Xml U2 light ?

    On Actions led the wide angle lens is out of stock. I want buy one on another site.

    Thanks

    Jeremy

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    there is now the head-only version at KD: http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022641 :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    there is now the head-only version at KD: http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022641 :-)
    Sweet!

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    Let's make a small refresh of this thread. My light just came yesterday from KD, seems to have the same driver, LEDs on white circles, XM-Ls

    Quote Originally Posted by 0zeo View Post
    I just order one on KD too. Coud you give me please the diameter of the lense from the Kaidomain Xml U2 light ?
    Perhaps responding too late. The lens is 20 mm, the reflector seems to be 20 x 14 mm, but Kir measured 21 x 14 mm

    Quote Originally Posted by kragu View Post
    Ordered a clone and the Action LED lens for the 880 with high hopes that it will fit and give me a bright flood for my bars. I don't suppose anyone's already attempted this combo?
    Kragu, so did you try this lens? Maybe I will replace the lens too for some TIR lens like this or this

    Quote Originally Posted by Kir View Post
    Since nobody posted any reviews yet...
    Some technical details:
    2 leds in series, current on leds in 3 modes - 0.58A-1.53A-2.36A
    Kir, what voltage did you use to measure these numbers?

  118. #118
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    Its a current on leds, its regulated to stay the same regardless of the input/battery voltage.

  119. #119
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    Thanks, didn't read that properly it is on leds.

  120. #120
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    If someone is searching for good low price Panasonic 3400mAh litium cells to replace the crappy ones which normally comes with most of the chinese lights just check:

    panasonic NCR18650B with 3400mAh are just a few bucks less than at fasttech - Klick for link! (coupon bgf113)

    get the protected ones here (coupon bgf120)

    I just hit the button
    ..just ride...

  121. #121
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    Hi!

    This is my first post but I've been following this part of the forum for quite a while.

    Sorry if this isn't quite the right palce to post this, but here it goes:

    I've been using a single XML light (magicshine 808 clone) on the bars for about a year and i'm looking to add another light to my set up.

    I'm thinking on moving the single XML to my helmet and getting a dual XML for my bars.

    I've read this entire thread plus the one on the solarstorm X2 and the one on the gemini duo clones (yes i'm looking for a cheap light), and I'm not shure wich is the best option for a bar light, so help is much apreciated!

    I'm leaning towards the mj 880 clone. The beam seems to be not as focused as on the X2, bulding quality and heat dissipation seems to be better than average and I specialy like the UI (no need to go trough flashing and off while changing modes).

    Oh, and I like the possibility of replacing the cells in the batery holder with better ones when they die.

    Seems this clone doesn't raise the same interest as the X2 or the gemini clones (judging from the number posts in this tread) but i does look like a better option in my opinion, I'm i wrong?

    I also like the beam patern of the gemini clone, but the fact that I have to cycle trough off while changing modes, puts me off.

    I realise there are different versions of the mj-880s with diferent power outputs.
    Like this one with 1.8A circuitry and 580 lm (could that be right?)

    LetterFire LF-20 2 x Cree XM-L T6 580lm 4-Mode White Bicycle Headlamp - Black (4 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

    I'm thinking about this one, as it comes (supposedly) with XM-L2 emiters:

    http://www.kaidomain.com/product/Details.S021521

    Is Kaidomain a reliable seller?

    With the current li-ion batteries/air mail situation, i'm i likely to get it delivered with no problems?

    Also, i understand Kir got his clone from this seller and he measured decent current draw (I know that doesn't mean much and this is light roulete)

    Thank's in advance

  122. #122
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    1. Yes, KD seems to be quite reliable I got the same light as Kir after a long time.
    2. No, MJ-880 clone is an XM-L U2 - confusing description.
    3. I have 2 SS X2 from lightmalls and 2 880 clones from KD. Both draw nearly the same from battery. SS X2 is a good helmet light and the 880 clone with TIR optics is a good bar light. I recently ordered 15 degree TIR lenses to replace one lense in each of the 880 clone and I might buy another two wider lenses to give outer leds wider beam. The battery pack from KD arrives by surface/ground post. THe light and stuff you get by airmail.

  123. #123
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    I am considering this headunit only http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022641
    I am also confused about XML2 description. It clearly says KD 2 x Cree XM-L2 U2
    So if emitters are XML 2*U2 then I expect 2 light units as it says 2xCree bla bla bla. I see the pictures there are old XMLs but still...
    Whats up with that?

  124. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    I am considering this headunit only http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022641
    I am also confused about XML2 description. It clearly says KD 2 x Cree XM-L2 U2
    So if emitters are XML 2*U2 then I expect 2 light units as it says 2xCree bla bla bla. I see the pictures there are old XMLs but still...
    Whats up with that?
    The one I bought a few months ago was XML U2, but it was stated as such in the description. It didn't say XM-L2 at the time. I would say that they must have recently upgraded the LED to XM-L2.

    The description of XM-L2 U2 is written the same as for the 3x unit they sell. I sent them an email when I ordered my 3x XM-L2 U2 light and they confirmed over email that it was an XM-L2. It arrived and was indeed an XM-L2.

  125. #125
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    Honestly I don't know, maybe they changed emitters for XM-L2 and didn't updated the pictures. But I have 2 x 880 clones and both are XM-L U2.

  126. #126
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    Well, I also sent them an email about this for sku.S022641. Lets wait for what they say.

  127. #127
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    This is the answer...
    Quote Originally Posted by Kaidomain
    This bike light use XML2 LED, We will update the pictures soon.

  128. #128
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    Cool, looks like new beamshots and comparison between old and new soon

    Mine's also on the way, and hopefully XM-L2 U2 !!

  129. #129
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    Thanks for the replies!

    I think I willl take a shot at this one.

  130. #130
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    You are going to find that most of the Chinese light vendors are using the same stock photos....so the green LED may--or may not..be what's inside what you're getting.

  131. #131
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    K/D updated photos to the new XML2 880clone headlight.
    Moving on...did anyone try to mod this light? Increasing current by replacing SMD resistor? Which resistor would be best to use? There is a lot of aluminum to heatsink for overdrive. You could machine new inserts (copper maybe) and adjust the dimensions to install plastic lenses and ditch the reflectors. (15° + 25° combo). Which lens are the best to fit?
    I have plan to do all that, but it would be nice to have some infos before I get my ordered lamp in my hands.
    Thanks

  132. #132
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    Despite owning this light for several months (XML U2 version), today was the first time I did a real night ride and one with the 2x mounted to my helmet. I was very pleased with the performance. It was a little bit of an adjustment, since, when paired with my 3x unit on the bars, I had to aim the 2x higher than I did when I used two Lumina 650's. It greatly increased the range of my helmet light and it more or less blends in with the light from the 3x to give me a continuous and expanded visual field. Consequently, I feel that I was able to ride a little faster than last year's night rides. I ended up running it on HIGH for almost the entirety of the ride. When I put both it and my 3x unit on medium, the 2x unit just seemed a little weak. The battery power is there for me to ride on HIGH for 2 hrs and my ride was 1:30 so it's really no problem to leave it on HIGH the whole time. Very pleased with the performance, but I'd be lying if I didn't say I am envious of those newer XM-L2-U2 versions

  133. #133
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    I just ordered two of the xm-l2 lightheads from KD. Along with some different optics from fasttech. Hopefully the optics fit. I plan to run both in the bars to create a nice flood of light.

    This will replace my current setup of a 4x XML and a v1 gloworm X2.

    I am hoping for a better beam pattern than the 4x provides.

  134. #134
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    Same here ;-) Also bought 15 degree optics from fastech. We'll see how that magic performs. If they fit, I'll buy also wider angle.

  135. #135
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    Same here ;-) Also bought 15 degree optics from fastech. We'll see how that magic performs. If they fit, I'll buy also wider angle.
    I picked up the 15 and 30. At 86 cents each. What the heck, why not.

  136. #136
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    Can someone verify whether this has a standard Magicshine-type connector? The XM-L2 head-only is less than 30 bones on KD.

    http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022641
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2018 Niner RKT 9 RDO - enduro AF

  137. #137
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    Yes KD clone has MS type connector, however the cable is only 100mm long. You might need extension cable just to place your battery pack where ever you want to.

  138. #138
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    Mj880clone does not have exact MS connector, but the headunit fits MS batteries (loose fit and not waterproof), however clone battery doesnt fit classic Magicshine light unit. The problem is the outside diameter that is smaller at 880 clone. Note that original MJ880 has different connector than other MS (it is not round)

  139. #139
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    Mine 2 880 clones are 5.5/2.1 mm, but I don't have MS pack and its dimensions.

    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Can someone verify whether this has a standard Magicshine-type connector? The XM-L2 head-only is less than 30 bones on KD.

    http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S022641

  140. #140
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    The problem is with plastic housing of the connector.

  141. #141
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    I want to mount a 880 clone to my helmet. Looks like it comes standard with bar mount. Is there a helmet adapter available to fit this head? I could mount it 'as is' but it would not have a way to swivel for beam angle.

  142. #142
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Finaly...I got a new version KD XML2 880 clone. Head unit only.
    https://www.kaidomain.com/Product/Details.S022641
    Got some good and some bad news.

    Let me start with good ones.
    -it has indeed XML2 leds
    -it has standard Magicshine connector (picture on KD site shows connector from old XML series)
    -you get two mounting silicone o-rings and both are small size, so you get a good tension on a handlebar.
    -very fast delivery. Less than 3 weeks.



    and the bad news
    -very poorly packed. Only bubble wrap and standard chinese envelope. But it survived the journey.
    -very poor heat transfer design (SSX2 alike). It has slightly different design compare to first version with XMLs.


    Does not have leds on stars and inserts but leds are on a custom one piece backplate that fits very loosely.
    You can see heat transfer contact area on a picture above. It is only that middle area with some thermal paste on it and some
    random contact points at the edges. The main middle wall is thicker compare to old one and if there werent those
    huge holes drilled out, but just two small ones for cables, it would have sufficient heat transfer. But now it needs
    overhaull!!!! I will make some solid alu inserts to pressfit in those holes and make a bigger contact.
    I think that this light is not very good as it is...it is not plug&play, but if you upgrade it, it could be very good.
    Driver looks the same.

    Tomorrow I will be able to compare brightness between this one and the first XML version.

  143. #143
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    MJ880 clone

    I bought one in black from Kaidomain (XML U2 version with slim type connection). For the money it's good. Beam pattern is large bright spot and then a large spread. Very good for commuting. Have not taken it apart yet. I like the stealth look


  144. #144
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    It is hard to believe that the same SS X2 thing happend to this 880 clone. I can see some thermal paste in the middle of the MCPCB. So both "reputable" kaidomain and fasttech are selling some weird clones of clones

  145. #145
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    I have one heading my way. I'm a bit disapointed that the internals don't have the same design and heat transfer capabilities as the model Kir described.

    I also have the 15 and 30 degree lenses coming from fasttech, do you have any idea if they will fit this slightly diferrent design?

    (lenses are 20mm x 13mm)

  146. #146
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    bhocewar bought light head only, Kir and I, we both bought the full set and have the same design and just XM-L not XM-L2. My 15deg. lenses stuck somewhere due to lifepo cells in the package so I don't know if they fit, but there is still alternative to buy from DX.

  147. #147
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    No lens would fit as it is. You need to machine new inserts to elevate leds to correct position. That way you upgrade heat transfer too. I also hope that lens will hold OK. Front panel has 19mm holes, lens OD is 20mm, that gives just half mm at the edges to hold on a rubber gasket. You should avoid those 21mm lenses with plastic shell because it would not be waterproof (or just throw away that shell).

    Yesterday I compared 880 xml clone and new XML2 version, and I didnt notice any difference in brightness. Did not find spare time to measure the current draw.

    Here is a funny fact:
    880 clone reflector fits perfectly in SSX2. IF you want to have smoother transition from spot to flood...I will soon have extra OP 880 clone reflectors available.

  148. #148
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    How deep is actually the reflector? I think I measured about 14 mm.

  149. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    Finaly...I got a new version KD XML2 880 clone. Head unit only.

    ...Does not have leds on stars and inserts but leds are on a custom one piece backplate that fits very loosely.
    You can see heat transfer contact area on a picture above. It is only that middle area with some thermal paste on it and some
    random contact points at the edges. The main middle wall is thicker compare to old one and if there werent those
    huge holes drilled out, but just two small ones for cables, it would have sufficient heat transfer. But now it needs
    overhaull!!!! I will make some solid alu inserts to pressfit in those holes and make a bigger contact.
    I think that this light is not very good as it is...it is not plug&play, but if you upgrade it, it could be very good.
    Driver looks the same...
    All things considered, the 880 clone still looks to have more thermal contact area ( on the emitter board ) than the SSX2 clones not to mention it has a larger head for added heat dissipation area. Plus, the 880 clone looks ( as you stated ) like you could add extra pieces into the slots but likely you might have to go to a machine shop to get them made. Unless you can make the inserts yourself I'm not sure it would be worth spending the extra money. ( of course that would depend on what they charge you for something like this. )

  150. #150
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    I thought that a mix of some copper shavings and thermal paste would might be worth to try, at least you don't need to pay for a precise manufacturing of those pieces. But that is just my suggestion ...

  151. #151
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    Dont be cheap. Those inserts will cost a few bucks...and will improve heat transfer by at least 500%. I will overhaull my light to the point, it will match the original MJ880.

  152. #152
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    Dont be cheap. Those inserts will cost a few bucks...
    To be fair the light head is only $29. So how much more of an investment are we looking at here? If it dies you can just grab another cheapo light head. Also it looks like the heatsinking is not as good but how much of an issue Is it really? Is there a good way to measure that?

    I did see some people on the blf forums make a heat sink from thick copper wire and solder. Then put it in with a bunch of thermal paste. That may be a budget option

  153. #153
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    About $15 in material/not including labour/including a few other tricks.
    Thermal managment is the most important thing in light design and its performance.

  154. #154
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    Finaly...I got a new version KD XML2 880 clone. Head unit only.
    https://www.kaidomain.com/Product/Details.S022641
    Got some good and some bad news.

    Let me start with good ones.
    -it has indeed XML2 leds
    -it has standard Magicshine connector (picture on KD site shows connector from old XML series)
    -you get two mounting silicone o-rings and both are small size, so you get a good tension on a handlebar.
    -very fast delivery. Less than 3 weeks.



    and the bad news
    -very poorly packed. Only bubble wrap and standard chinese envelope. But it survived the journey.
    -very poor heat transfer design (SSX2 alike). It has slightly different design compare to first version with XMLs.


    Does not have leds on stars and inserts but leds are on a custom one piece backplate that fits very loosely.
    You can see heat transfer contact area on a picture above. It is only that middle area with some thermal paste on it and some
    random contact points at the edges. The main middle wall is thicker compare to old one and if there werent those
    huge holes drilled out, but just two small ones for cables, it would have sufficient heat transfer. But now it needs
    overhaull!!!! I will make some solid alu inserts to pressfit in those holes and make a bigger contact.
    I think that this light is not very good as it is...it is not plug&play, but if you upgrade it, it could be very good.
    Driver looks the same.

    Tomorrow I will be able to compare brightness between this one and the first XML version.
    Well my two light heads showed up. Same issue. What size inserts are you making? It would save me from trying to shove some calipers in there!

    Thanks!

  155. #155
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    I am making inserts to mod it with TIR optic lenses, so it is a different size. You need just to fill those holes... 18mm dia and cca 4mm thickness.

  156. #156
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    I am making inserts to mod it with TIR optic lenses, so it is a different size. You need just to fill those holes... 18mm dia and cca 4mm thickness.
    Are you making them thicker? Post up some pics of your work when u get there!

  157. #157
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    Eventually you can make them thicker to heatsink the driver also.
    @bhocewar what tir lenses are you going to use?

  158. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    Eventually you can make them thicker to heatsink the driver also.
    @bhocewar what tir lenses are you going to use?
    ...or you heat it up...
    I will use regular 20mm TIR optics (21mm with plastic housing) 10°+25° maybe 2x25° for handlebar

    more... when it`s done.

  159. #159
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    It depends on whether the driver needs cooling or not.

    I was thinking about 15° and 30° for a handlebar. But now I am using 7 XM-L as a bar light and 880 clone will move to a helmet light so I probably won't change anything.

  160. #160
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    My fasttech optics showed up today. Loose fit. Needs to be raised a mm or 2. I fit them anyway with 15/30 combo just to see how it looks. Beam pattern loses the hot spot. Def more flood. But for now I'll run stock until i feel like messing with it. Comparing against my friends yinding light. That thing is 1/2 the size and same amount of light. With a better beam pattern.

  161. #161
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    Here is an upgraded 880 clone. 10°+25° optics...I will take some before/after beam shots...




    waterproof test

  162. #162
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    Here is an upgraded 880 clone. 10°+25° optics...I will take some before/after beam shots...
    Nice work! Inspired me to make a piece for mine so i can use my optics. 15° and 30°.

    Much better beam pattern. I am currently running both of my light heads on the bars. I'll do a ride with the modified optics and the stock reflectors to see how I like the difference.

    K/D  2 x XML, MJ880 Clone-imageuploadedbytapatalk1387762126.371516.jpg

  163. #163
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    I have the Kaidomain version. Never opened it or addressed the heat dissipation problem - is that something I should do or it'll die on me?

    With regards to the beam pattern, I simply cut out a cheap plastic lens (intended to mod some common U2 lamp of larger size) and siliconed it on to one half, like this:



    I tried spreading the light from both LEDs but for me this strikes a good balance. Easy, cheap and ugly. But this lamp would still blind people and oncoming traffic so I also added a cap, cut out from a schampoo bottle.

    Unfortunately, the cable is complete junk and as you can see the cover is broken already (same goes for the battery pack cable on the other end):



    In your minds, what's the easiest way to repair that? Heat shrink tubing would require disassembly - maybe one could just as well switch it out to a new cable all together? I dunno. Just put something glueish on it maybe and see if it sticks?

    Anyways, the performance is good. It hangs upside down like this:


  164. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjorsa View Post
    ...Anyways, the performance is good. It hangs upside down like this:

    ...I think you have redefined the term, butt-ugly..

    That has to be the largest lamp hood I have ever seen. With the lamp being mounted as low as it is IMO I would think you could get by with just about a quarter of that. Not to mention that having the entire top of the lamp covered in plastic is going hamper the lamps ability to dissipate heat.

    Interesting mounting solution. I like it but my guess is that it would have to vibrate/sway quite a bit being so elongated as it is.

  165. #165
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    Well I tried with a smaller hood first and it didn't provide a sharp enough cut-off for the beam. I want the brightest centre directed as far ahead as possible without deer-ing oncomers to the headlight. And in fact, the lower the lamp hangs, the more precise you have to be.

    The lamp never even feels luke warm when I touch it so I stopped worrying about the hampered dissipation. Maybe come summer I have to cut the cover narrower; it's strenghtened with construction glue anyways.

    The low mounting serves a purpose: otherwise my handlebar bag would block the light. Also, (especially since I sometimes use a head-lamp) the lower position makes for good road perception. The Topeak BarXtender does its job and I haven't noticed any vibrations or swaying at all. As a bonus I can strap the lamp on in two seconds because I never have to take the rubber mount off, instead just twitching it over the end of the bar.

    The battery pack normally goes in the bag. I hate fiddling with that flimsy mounting strap - and speaking of ugly I use a random piece of foam in between the battery and the frame when riding without the bag. With the wire all over the place, straps, pices of foam, a schampoo bottle cap and some random rubber band here and there it has white trash written all over it. Butt ugly would sum it up.

  166. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjorsa View Post
    Well I tried with a smaller hood first and it didn't provide a sharp enough cut-off for the beam. I want the brightest centre directed as far ahead as possible without deer-ing oncomers to the headlight. And in fact, the lower the lamp hangs, the more precise you have to be.

    The lamp never even feels luke warm when I touch it so I stopped worrying about the hampered dissipation. Maybe come summer I have to cut the cover narrower; it's strenghtened with construction glue anyways.

    The low mounting serves a purpose: otherwise my handlebar bag would block the light. Also, (especially since I sometimes use a head-lamp) the lower position makes for good road perception. The Topeak BarXtender does its job and I haven't noticed any vibrations or swaying at all. As a bonus I can strap the lamp on in two seconds because I never have to take the rubber mount off, instead just twitching it over the end of the bar.

    The battery pack normally goes in the bag. I hate fiddling with that flimsy mounting strap - and speaking of ugly I use a random piece of foam in between the battery and the frame when riding without the bag. With the wire all over the place, straps, pices of foam, a schampoo bottle cap and some random rubber band here and there it has white trash written all over it. Butt ugly would sum it up.
    Well it works for you and that is the important thing. You must have a heck of a time trying to reach the mode buttons when riding though.

    Have you ever considered a small frame bag? I use a small bag on my road set-up that fits nicely between the top/head and down tube. The advantage of this kind of arrangement is that it helps free up space around the bars ( vs. a handlebar bag ) and I don't need to use a bag under the seat. It's small enough that is doesn't interfere with the water bottle too. I figure with the lamp mounted on the bars you could more easily *adjust the lamp for on-coming traffic. ( * either by tilting the lamp down or changing modes )

    Anyway, if you are really concerned about cut-off for the lamp you might consider a dynamo light head. Most of the good ones are designed with cut-off in mind. Matter of fact I've been thinking of going dynamo myself for my on the road set-up but just don't have the money needed to get what I want. I don't worry too much about it though as I have good battery powered lights.

  167. #167
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    I have two of the XM-L2 U2 version on my handlebars now and I couldn't be happier. Just a bump to make sure everyone knows how great these lights are.

  168. #168
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    After some time using this light with a couple of other blokes around I found out that the R100 resistor likes to blow up increasing its resistance from 0.1Ohm to xyzOhms. The light seems good overall, buttons all green but it won't power on - actually it does, but the amount of current is very low rendering the leds powered off. Changing the resistor and maybe a increasing its heat dissipation makes the light work fine again. That happens more frequently on the "solarstromified" versions of the 880 clone.

    K/D  2 x XML, MJ880 Clone-ff8nsych.jpg

  169. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    Here is an upgraded 880 clone. 10°+25° optics...I will take some before/after beam shots...
    I am new to LEDs, so can you explain the 10 and 25 degree optics? Is the 10 degree the original "spot", and the 25 degree is a swapped in "flood"? If so where did you get the flood?

  170. #170
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    After some time using this light with a couple of other blokes around I found out that the R100 resistor likes to blow up increasing its resistance from 0.1Ohm to xyzOhms. The light seems good overall, buttons all green but it won't power on - actually it does, but the amount of current is very low rendering the leds powered off. Changing the resistor and maybe a increasing its heat dissipation makes the light work fine again. That happens more frequently on the "solarstromified" versions of the 880 clone.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks for the tip! Do you have a source you like to get new resistors from?

  171. #171
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    My source is local shop with electronic stuff, or you can go with Fasttech, DX, ...

    Here is the guide which SMD package will fit: Resistor Sizes and Packages » Resistor Guide

    The lager the resistor the more heat it can dissipate.

  172. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by B.A.R.K. View Post
    I am new to LEDs, so can you explain the 10 and 25 degree optics? Is the 10 degree the original "spot", and the 25 degree is a swapped in "flood"? If so where did you get the flood?
    Both TIR optics are added for an upgrade. Original light has OP reflectors

  173. #173
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    Can someone tell me if the 880 clone has more throw than the SSX2? Also how does it compare to the SSX2 over all?

  174. #174
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    The reflectors have similar dimensions, 880 is OP whereas X2 is smooth. 880 should push more current to the leds. I think the throw difference is negligible. Here is my photobucket album with some lights beamshots including 880 clone and X2. The quiestion is what driver X2 uses, 880 clone uses just one type.

    Budget Lights Comparo 2014 Photos by kuzmami | Photobucket

  175. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
    It is not unusual type of head: such drivers are typically included in most "all-in-one" toolbox / bit sets...
    The triangular head (that fits the new Neutral White KD880 clone) might be more common outside the USA. It was not included in any of the multi-tools I've purchased previously and haven't seen it at my local big box store recently either. But then, NYC is no longer world-renowned for hardware. Could anyone here please provide a link or other reference so I can at least narrow down my search? Afraid if I just use the end of my triangular file it will abraid the finish of the screwhead.

    Also, if I find I don't have to (or can't) mod the innards with thermal slugs, what options exist to otherwise compensate for the shortfall with replacement optics?

    Thanks!

  176. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    The triangular head (that fits the new Neutral White KD880 clone) might be more common outside the USA. It was not included in any of the multi-tools I saw at my local big box store. But then, NYC is no longer world-renowned for hardware. Could anyone here please provide a link or other reference so I can at least narrow down my search? Afraid if I just use the end of my triangular file it will abraid the finish of the screwhead.
    You're welcome:
    triangular screwdriver | eBay

    Please note, that tri-wing and trigram bits/drivers are sometimes called "triangular" too - but are completely different type.

    One more:
    Silverhill Tools ATKTR4 Triangle Head Screwdriver Setwith Carry Pouch - Hand Tool Sets - Amazon.com

  177. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
    You're welcome:
    triangular screwdriver | eBay

    Please note, that tri-wing and trigram bits/drivers are sometimes called "triangular" too - but are completely different type.
    Thanks Archie. From Wikipedia:

    Sizes include TA14, TA18, TA20, TA23, and TA27.

    By any chance do you know which size the 880 clone uses? If I could find the right one locally it would save the wait from China/Hong Kong/Australia or the expense of buying the entire set from Amazon.

  178. #178
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    Glad to be of assistance, Andy!

    Unfortunately, I don't know exact size, but you may use ledoman's trick or similar method probably.

    Offtopic: are you sure it's impossible to find such tools locally?

  179. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
    Glad to be of assistance, Andy!

    Unfortunately, I don't know exact size, but you may use ledoman's trick or similar method probably.

    Offtopic: are you sure it's impossible to find such tools locally?
    Well like I said, my triangle file is very rough on the end, afraid it would damage the screw insets. Local hardware stores don't carry a full set of triangle drivers, they sometimes include a single one inside a set of other drivers and hex wrenches but there'd only be a one-in-five chance it would be the size I need. Amazon does offer the full set, am currently trying to fill my cart with enough other items to qualify for free shipping. Any recommendations for soldering kit and precision tips? Gotta go check out the DIY forum!

    Still don't know about replacing the reflectors with the optics mentioned here, guesss if I get the light head apart I'll simply have to measure. Doesn't even matter to me so much how wide or narrow an angle; I just don't care for the current set up, hot spot is too distinct. Wonder why the clones all have OP reflectors rather than the optics of the original, could it have saved the manufactures on material or labor?

  180. #180
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    I can probably find you a nice budget soldering station on Amazon. Give me a minute and watch for a PM.

    -Garry

  181. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    I can probably find you a nice budget soldering station on Amazon. Give me a minute and watch for a PM.

    -Garry
    Thanks Garry! Yeah I saw some, problem is the replacement precision tips are not sold in multiples, only variety packs seem to be available.

  182. #182
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    You can undone those screws with "minus" screwdriver with 3+mm wide tip

  183. #183
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    Well as long as I had to wait for the optics from FastTech to arrive, ordered the complete set of triangular head drivers that -Archie- found for me on Amazon. Worked great, and a good thing too because I had to take that little sucker apart a good many times trying to figure out the easiest way to mod it without a workshop. Ultimately fashioned my own ~1mm thick plate to backup the emitter board using tinned sheet steel cut from the lid of a can of sweetened condensed milk and wrapped in aluminum tape, trimmed to size. Pressed into place, stuffed same NW XM-L2 3C emitter board with its two wires back inside. Dropped in the new 15º optics, retaining original flat glass lenses to both help fill gap and keep the narrower new units from falling through the front plate. Everything fits nice and snug, no rattling. Didn't break anything this time, finished it all without having to resolder the leads either. New setup seems to be working pretty well, shell heats up real fast — woohoo.

    Beam is still very tight, but without all the horrible ringing/color separation the previous reflectors had been putting out (will post some shots once it's dark enough.) Modded lamp will live on the bars as my "Driving Light." When the elliptical lenses on order from LEDDNA come in, will insert those into some other lamp for use as a low beam.

    Thanks guys for all the previous examples. Now let's just see how long this one lasts.

    K/D  2 x XML, MJ880 Clone-image.jpgK/D  2 x XML, MJ880 Clone-image.jpg
    Last edited by andychrist; 04-03-2015 at 01:30 PM.

  184. #184
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    Looking at your photo I would of thought the original reflectors would of been OP or faceted. I believe the original 880's used faceted reflectors which would of provided a more smoother beam pattern.

  185. #185
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    Yeah Cat, the KD MJ-880 clone did come with OP reflectors, don't think they are the same or even similar to what MagicShine uses though, from what little I could glean from the pics on their site. KD's blur the distinction between spot and spill but somehow separate out the neutral white tint into alternating rings of sickly yellow and blue. Think that might have been what tigris99 was experiencing with his SS X3 too before he modded it with optics from LEDDNA, had said the NW XM-L2 emitters were putting out too much yellow before but that now they all look fine.

    I've still got an unaltered NW KD here I can compare beams shots to once it's dark enough. Not sure how well my iPad can pick out the rings though, auto WB kinda unpredictable.

    Incidentally, here's a slightly better shot of how the lenses from FT fit over the emitters, a lot different from the way TIR optics look.

    K/D  2 x XML, MJ880 Clone-image.jpg

  186. #186
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    FYI, Original Magicshine MJ-880 uses 15deg TIR optics of same dimensions as LED-DNA optics. They are easily exchangable. It has been 10 days since I've put one 25deg instead of stock one. The light was used for caving so bit wider beam was desired.

    @andy, KD 880 is quite good regarding heating issues. I've used Noctigons and additional cilindrical inserts along with LED-DNA optics. Heat dissipation is so good I could raise the current for about 30% with no problems. With those mods it can easily compete with original MJ-880.

  187. #187
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    Yes ledoman, this clone certainly has great potential. Think KD might even still be selling the original model with the heftier internals, if they've left that XM-L T6 model unchanged (the package price is still higher than the XM-L2, maybe for a reason?) Anyway I was pleasantly surprised to find that even my cheapy insert plate mod, which I performed really just to compensate for the shorter optics, has actually improved thermal dissipation as well: the lamp shell becomes too hot to hold almost a full minute before my unaltered Silver model does.

    iPad doesn't pick up exactly what the eye detects, but here are before and after shots of KD 880 clone with original reflectors top and modded with FastTech 15º lenses below.

    K/D  2 x XML, MJ880 Clone-image.jpgK/D  2 x XML, MJ880 Clone-image.jpg

    For under $2.00 in material, am satisfied with the results. And now I've crammed in the extra back plate, will be a cinch in the future just to drop in any other lenses might strike my fancy.

  188. #188
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    Hey Andy you know u can get optics from led supply and mouser here in the states for about the same price???

    Just put these top of my next head to order (yinding on the way atm).

    Now something about beefy vs crappy internals???? Whats up there exactly.

  189. #189
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    tigris, at the time I placed my orders, couldn't find the exact same lenses any place else. Not a big deal, didn't mind waiting as biking season is not exactly in full swing yet.

    Yeah if you read all the way back here on the KD MJ-880 clone, you'll see that they changed the internal design at some point. First model on offer was XM-L T6, it had either two separate emitter stars and a full divider wall or heavy pills, forget which. Current XM-L2 U2 version has huge circular cutouts and single emitter board, much like your SolarStorm X3. Dunno whether the XM-L T6 that KD still sells in a package is unaltered from that first one but I suspect it might because they're asking the original price, over eleven dollars more than the current XM-L2. Kaidomain might be willing to sell the lamp head alone, they are very accommodating that way. I'd want to verify first how it's made inside though, doubt KD would have the answer. Either way, a very nice lamp with a slick look and the dual control buttons are certainly a definite plus.

  190. #190
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    Well I ask cause what amazon offers always seems to be older versions and I don't mind buying the lights there, the cells when stripped from packs and ran through my bc6 balance charger and such seem to work pretty well afterwards. Saving me from buying good cells yet. But thnx for heads up on that. Kd 2 id the same way, big through holes and single plate too. I dont mind that as long as plate goes in from optics side and not back side like kd 2

  191. #191
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    Yeah tigris they're selling the OxyLED branded version of the whole package on Amazon for around $40. Says XM-L and the pics show it with that earlier Cree emitter. Still that's no guarantee you'd receive the original build KD used. Seems like a real crap shoot, especially as there are both XM-L T6 and XM-L U2 versions floating around. Not to mention, Amazon might be even be fulfilling current orders with the latest build, not like they always have so much as a clue. So, if neither Kaidomain nor anyone here can confirm that the better earlier model is available, I'd say best value would be to order either the solitary NW XM-L2 U2 lamp head or full package from KD. At least you'd be getting the emitters you want, and you're handy enough to improve the rest.

    BTW, think the Silver model looks a lot more spiffy than the Black, pictures on KD don't do it justice.

    K/D  2 x XML, MJ880 Clone-image.jpg

  192. #192
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    Raw does look pretty slick, part of my thing with getting kd lights on amazon, I still don't have my kd order from almost 4 weeks ago. Took them 3 weeks to get my order to the postal service. And they aren't like gearbest and offer an affordable expedited shipping. And now oxyled isn't the only kd 2x option, found 1 or 2 more.

  193. #193
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    Silver model seems to be anodized too, it's brighter and more sparkly than regular raw aluminum.

    tigris, the other two KD style clones on Amazon are more expensive than the OxyLED and both probably ship from China anyway, delivery estimate is the same ~four to six weeks with each despite one saying USA.

    My last delivery from Kaidomain took only a couple of weeks. Think a lot of delays with them just a matter of not all items being in stock at any moment. But you can email KD before placing an order to find out which sku's are available to ship right away, they're always very responsive. You might even be able to find out from them whether any of their MJ style lamps is still the original build, if you can provide enough info in simple language (easier said than done.)

  194. #194
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    Actually the 3 I have saved are all prime 2 day shipping eligible. Oxyled, securitying just added one in the last few days then the supernight one which seems to have the oldest version. Not easy to find took me browsing everything cree light under cycling, prime eligible, to find the other 2.





    Btw Andy, what does ur driver look like, haven't found driver pics yet.

    Edit: Nvm found pics.
    Last edited by tigris99; 04-03-2015 at 11:20 PM.

  195. #195
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    Wow those sure are hard to find, tigris! But SecurityIng doesn't say which model it is save for only being 800 lumens (probably the shocking truth about them all, but just might indicate genuinely inferior circuitry here) and while from the limited specs provided the Supernight could be the same as the original KD, there is no way of knowing the truth until you get it. Also note that item is not shipped by Amazon so ineligeable for Prime or their superior exchange policy — delivery estimate still not bad even for Standard though. But as neither of these skus have garnered any reviews yet on Amazon I'd certainly hesitate before ordering, especially as they both come to more than the OxyLED, and all of them would still require around a $9 upgrade for neutral white emitters.

  196. #196
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    Hmm my account shows supernight with prime fullfilled by amazon, same with my securitying version. I always check that, but im gonna double check on website vs my app.



    Securitying to me seems like later model and wasn't their a few days ago (my kd 2 is securitying and I searched all their lights a week ago), supernight has a few reviews dating back to release of kd 2x. Oxyled not much there either.



    Gonna drag up links try to figure out why your seeing something different than me, maybe learn a detail I missed about amazon lol.

    Update: Nope, fulfilled by amazon and covered by their return policy
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/help/custom...deId=106096011

    Hmm which one to order.... Not oxy, its only 3 mode, securitying is more expensive but I know that brand... Other one has best chance of pills and good reviews....supernight it is.

  197. #197

  198. #198
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    So far what I've seen there were only two versions of MJ-880 clone. I don't know about Amazon (it doesn't deliver to my country), but I've got few from ebay and KD. Versions with XM-L leds were old design with pills and versions with XM-L2 were one plate led PCB. Both versions had same driver, but different connector (minor difference waterproof versus nonwaterproof). With both versions some sort of pills were needed to elevate leds into position where LED-DNA lenses have fit. Otherwise housings didn't have much difference and I think the consistency is much better than with most SS X2.

    Based on that I think there is not much to be afraid. Of course I might be wrong. With Chinese you would never know. ;-)

  199. #199
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    Ah, found it!

    http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-TM-...rds=supernight

    Okay so this Supernight sku is fulfilled by Amazon. And a good thing too, it has not gotten the best reviews by those who actually attempted to use it for any length of time. Am sure though tigris you'd be able to take care of any little shortcomings beforehand. Like ledoman says, a great lamp body no matter which version. Gold one looks pretty hot too. Only wish some vendor offered it with NW XM-L2, not worth the price and effort to me to reflow new emitters. Will let you have all the fun, tigris. ;-)

  200. #200
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    Hell reflowing emitters take 5 mins

    Well works out I have optics on the way from leddna, just no idea when/if they'll ever show up lol.

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