Hello darkness my old friend- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Hello darkness my old friend

    Every year when daylight savings time ends, I break out the lights, hit the trail, and get lost in the woods. Iíve been reluctant to drop big bucks on the big names, and unwilling to take a chance with the recycled battery packs that come with the cheap lights online.

    This year I found the M-Tiger Hyperion light. For $190 bucks, it came with a 4 Cree light head, name brand batteries, wireless remote, and all the fixinsí (RAKC Ind - https://www.rakclighting.com). The LEDís have a very neutral colored light which throw a great beam down the trail and enough flood to light up the woods around me so that I donít get lost. I especially light the GoPro mount which is much easier to mount and aim than a rubber band around my handlebars.

    I know a lot of people who have bought the cheapo lights online and they seem to work for a while. And I know a few people who have dropped serious bucks on top end name brands. What are you running, how do you like them, and whatís on your wish list?
    Last edited by brknspk; 11-05-2018 at 11:52 AM.

  2. #2
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    At the suggestion of this forum I got a Revtronic Bt40s and paired it with a battery pack from action led. Then I picked up a gemini xera for the helmet. They work great, no complaints except:

    The light head of the Bt40s signifies low battery quicker than it should. I have not run it down to empty, but I suspect it is the circuit that monitors the battery not working perfectly, and not the battery itself.

    Otherwise it is a great set up for low cost. The only thing I changed is that I don't trust or like o-ring hookups for lights. So I adapted these to and existing hook and loop Velcro helmet mount and a quick release bar clamp mount. Total cost for the set up was something like $175

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post
    .....

    The light head of the Bt40s signifies low battery quicker than it should. I have not run it down to empty, but I suspect it is the circuit that monitors the battery not working perfectly, and not the battery itself.
    Not all Li-Ion cells have the same discharge curve. Because of that it is impossible for a battery monitor to be accurate when the light is used with a battery other than the one it was designed for.

    Also the BT40S is a cheap Chinese light. Not a whole lot of consistency in components used. That too will have an impact on run-time and accuracy of a battery monitor.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Not all Li-Ion cells have the same discharge curve. Because of that it is impossible for a battery monitor to be accurate when the light is used with a battery other than the one it was designed for.

    Also the BT40S is a cheap Chinese light. Not a whole lot of consistency in components used. That too will have an impact on run-time and accuracy of a battery monitor.
    Yep, I agree and while I don't open up my lights like most of the guys here do, I have an appreciation for the discrepancy in performance for different components.

    I don't doubt I'd get good run time from the light, it is just annoying to have to ignore the color changing when I'm sure I've got plenty more juice.

    I'll probably stick with it for this year then maybe upgrade to an outbound for the bar when I feel like spending the cash.

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post
    .....it is just annoying to have to ignore the color changing when I'm sure I've got plenty more juice.
    If I was using one, I'd open it up and put a piece of electrical tape over the LED for the battery monitor.

    Do a few runtime tests to know what the light will do and then match your ride times to that. When I was working and had to night ride a lot, I knew that I could do 3 of my regular after work rides between charges.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post

    ...The light head of the Bt40s signifies low battery quicker than it should. I have not run it down to empty, but I suspect it is the circuit that monitors the battery not working perfectly, and not the battery itself.
    Yep, pretty much what they all do. When it goes red don't be surprised if you still have another hour of light left. Whoever designed the circuits for the trip points didn't really know what they were doing. This is why I've often said that cheap voltage indicators are almost always practically speaking, "Useless".

    If you use a four cell battery and typically do rides lasting more than 3-4 hrs. you might want to just carry a two cell battery as back-up just to remain on the safe side. You might never need to use it but it's nice to know it's there because....you never know. ( *...or, go to option two and mount a cheap 18650 torch on the bars and use it as your back-up. On medium a single cell 18650 torch can last more than a couple hours if not set over 400 lumen )

  7. #7
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    I went out for my second night ride yesterday using the new M-Tiger Hyperion. I replaced my handlebar mounted Magicshine with the Hyperion, and had my older MJ-880R on my helmet. While the two lights throw slightly different colors, they complimented each other nicely. The Hyperion has a broad, neutral beam which worked great for illuminating the foreground and periphery, while the 880R provided a nice bright white spot. I ran the Hyperion on high for the entire ride (about 90 minutes) just to see how well it held up. The battery indicator was showing blue by the end of the ride, so it really beat my expectations. The Magicshine, on the other hand, was flashing red (Iíve never been happy with the battery life on the Magicshine).

    And while it is a great light, I do have two small problems with the Hyperion. First, it is extremely sensitive to cooler weather. For some reason, I canít get it to switch out of its lowest setting if itís cooler than 45 degrees (Fahrenheit). I was hoping that it would warm up running on low, but apparently that setting doesnít do it. I finally resorted to putting the light under my armpit for about 5 minutes to warm it up. That did the trick and it worked fine after that. Still, most of my night riding is done in the 20 Ė 40 degree range and I wonder how itís going to work when winter finally hits. Is this expected behavior?

    Second, the GoPro mounting allowed the head to move a bit. After riding through a few rough sections, the light ended up pointing up in the air. I cranked down on the thumb screw and that seemed to work, but I donít think that it will hold up to that much torque over time. Iím not sure how Iíll remedy this problemÖmaybe switch it out for an Allen screw(?)

  8. #8
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    Seems odd that it glitched in cold weather, was the battery fully charged? If the pack was cold the protection circuit may have thought the battery was low. No known issues since released last year, only other person had a glitch that was similar but once pack had warmed up inside and recharged it's been fine last I knew.

    The thumb screw idea they used I found odd, for aluminum mounts everyone else uses Allen screw because of that. I'll have to grab some stainless ones to include with the mounts. First time anyone has mentioned the issue of it not holding, but easy fix.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.


  9. #9
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    The battery was fully charged and warm (it's been through 3-4 recharge cycles, so it should be at max capability). But the light head was in my car all day and cool. At the trail head, I had to warm the light head up in my armpit, but didn't have to do anything to the battery pack. Try this: put your light head in the fridge for awhile and then test it with a fresh battery pack. If it's VERY cold, it may only blink when turned on. If it's only cool, it will only work on low power until it warms up (and the heat produced on low doesn't seem to warm it up enough by itself)

    It was 43 degrees last night and, once warm, the light worked fine for the entire ride. Bug or feature?

  10. #10
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    There is protection in the light itself too. I'll test it (I'll put one in the freezer). It may be slow start due to cold. I've ridden at -5F in the snow but when I do the lights are on low mode while gear up and get buttoned up for the cold ride. So warmed up a fair bit before I got anywhere I wanted to kick it up higher. That may be intentional and something they didnt inform me of for a cold start.

    But I'll stick one in my freezer and see what happens.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.


  11. #11
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    I have one of the Theia lights that RAKC had made with warm[er] emitters--it works well for the riding I do, and is often enough all by itself on high, if I need it. I usually run a small self-contained on the bike on low/medium (for redundancy), and the Theia on the helmet on medium-low. It throws plenty of light for 90% of the stuff around me. Chugging along at slow speed, just the Theia on low is more than enough.

    I can easily ride 3 hours before needing to recharge the smaller light, and the Theia could probably handle another hour, but I recharge them at the same time.

  12. #12
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    I've been using a Te-Rich for trail riding at night (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Q26G9N...541737372&sr=3)

    The link is like the one I've been using, but I can't find them on Amazon now. Similar battery pack and setup. I've used them in rain and mud with no problems. I recently added a Sigma Buster 200 to my helmet to try and give me an option when checking down side trails. Overall the Te-Rich has been good. Its beam is a little too focused, but overall is plenty bright where I need it.

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