Gemini Titan 4000- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    jcard14
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    Gemini Titan 4000

    Anyone have experience with this light?

    I think I want one, but what do i know?

    How about partnering it with another Gemini light(on helmet) and using one remote...working well?
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  2. #2
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    In the past they have had issues with step down, but someone smarter than I will chime in


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  3. #3
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    No doubt it's bright but do you really need that much light coming off the bars? I have a few of the Gemini lights. I would think an interesting set-up would be Duo on the bars with one medium flood optic and one spot optic and then two Duo's on the helmet using all spot optics. The only problem would be finding a workable solution to mounting two Duo's on the helmet. That would likely require a custom mount setup. Two Duo's with all spots on the helmet would really be bright.

    I've always believed that when deciding what lamps to use that the helmet lamps should be brighter or at least equal to what you have on the bars. Six emitters on the bars is over-kill IMO. No way to match that with any thing on the helmet.

    If you ran three Duo's ( like I said before ) you could get all three to work off the same remote. Personally though, I prefer being able to control bar and helmet lamps separately but to each their own.

    If you do decide to go with the 4000 I'd recommend setting the two inside emitters with some good flood optics and then have the others all spots. Whatever you decide for the helmet it needs to be bright if it's going to complement the 4000. I like the idea of two Duo's on the lid but a single Olympia could work if you don't find it too heavy for the helmet. Since the 4000 is going to be bright I really recommend using separate remotes. As bright as the 4000 is there is going to be times when you don't need to use the helmet lamp. Would be better having the option to control the helmet lamp separately ( to save battery power )

    ...and speaking of batteries...A 4000 is likely going to require a very hefty battery, need I say. A very high capacity 6-cell or even an 8-cell.

  4. #4
    jcard14
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    Quote Originally Posted by rad3144 View Post
    In the past they have had issues with step down, but someone smarter than I will chime in


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    What is step down?
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  5. #5
    jcard14
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    I just like the thought of flooding the forest with light! I'm certain it is overkill...can you recommend a good setup? I do prefer not having wires on my head...

    That said, I have some old L&M Duals (maybe 200 lumens each) and a Serfas True 900. Both are at least 5 years old...just looking to up my game. Trying to follow the other threads but they are way to technical for me...
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcard14 View Post
    What is step down?
    He means that when the lamp is on high it will get hot and automatically step down the output. The Olympia does this if you aren't moving real fast and the lamp is left on too long in high mode.

    I can only assume the 4000 will get really hot ( on high mode ) as well but I have no experience with the 4000 as to how fast it will go into thermal step-down.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcard14 View Post
    I just like the thought of flooding the forest with light! I'm certain it is overkill...
    Instead of overkill, I think it is counter-productive. Too much light reflected off brush and things next to the trail causes your pupils to contract in reaction to the glare.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Instead of overkill, I think it is counter-productive. Too much light reflected off brush and things next to the trail causes your pupils to contract in reaction to the glare.

    I've found that with 3000-4000 lumens on the helmet, I can ride as if it was daylight. On our local trails which are typically around 6 mile loops, my daytime and nighttime speeds on strava are typically within a couple minutes difference.

    I use neutral or warm tint lights though. I couldn't stand that much light in a cooler tint, and reflected light, glare, and visible dust would be much more of an issue.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by coke View Post
    I've found that with 3000-4000 lumens on the helmet, I can ride as if it was daylight. On our local trails which are typically around 6 mile loops, my daytime and nighttime speeds on strava are typically within a couple minutes difference.
    I've found that can be done with less than 500 lumen. When I was doing 24hr races my best night laps were within 6 minutes of my best day laps on 12 -16 mile laps. Some of that was due to being a bit tired at night and only on the fastest parts of a course would you need to hold back a little due to outriding the light. Only had a NR halogen on the bars back then.

    That being said, I now usually run about 2000 lumen combined between bar and helmet. It seems better, but if you let your eyes adjust to lower light levels you can do very well on surprisingly little light.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcard14 View Post
    Anyone have experience with this light?

    I think I want one, but what do i know?

    How about partnering it with another Gemini light(on helmet) and using one remote...working well?
    Not a lot of user information on the Titan 4000. One of the main reasons IMO is the size/configuration of the light. I think it just takes up too much bar space + the simple band mounting system is a PITA because of the lights size/weight. Still the light is a monster performance wise and if you think you want one I would contact Jim @ Action-LED-Lights as the best source of information on this light.
    https://www.action-led-lights.com/co...ant=9586404421

    I also recommend you look at Lupine lights (I don't have a link but you can google it or look up the Lupine thread in this section and contact some of the owners who will be able to direct you to the appropriate vendor). I've never recommended anyone go this route before but looking at your bike ownership list I can tell you have the means and don't mind paying for the best (Lupine IMO). Definitely expensive, definitely overkill but have all the latest features, super high lumen output, built with absolutely the best quality parts and when Lupine upgrades their lights they usually have upgrade kits available to their previous customers. You've gotten lots of good advice from the other posters about what actually works the best in regards to performance and not getting more than what is usable or practical. I have a feeling you may be looking for something more. If not I'm sure you'll enjoy looking at their lights.
    Mole

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    Just handed my bar lights down to my kid. Kept the Olympia for the helmet and bought a Titan. I only have two rides on the new setup and my observations are:

    Mounting is quick and easy with the band system

    The light head is lighter than it looks and lower profile than the round round LED heads that I was previously using

    I'm happy with the stock light coverage/beam pattern on fast singletrack and faster fireroad descents. No problems with reflection. I'm looking forward to being able to descend the road at daylight speed now.

    I got the 8 cell pack and haven't bumped up against capacity issues yet.

    Gemini Titan 4000-titan.jpg

  12. #12
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    Awesome! Would love to see a beam photo on the fire road. I can't help but wonder what optics come stock.

    I never liked the Duo stock medium wide optics. To me they didn't provide a smooth even beam pattern. I switched to all spots and I was fine. If I were to use a medium wide optic I'd find another optic and use that.

  13. #13
    jcard14
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Not a lot of user information on the Titan 4000. One of the main reasons IMO is the size/configuration of the light. I think it just takes up too much bar space + the simple band mounting system is a PITA because of the lights size/weight. Still the light is a monster performance wise and if you think you want one I would contact Jim @ Action-LED-Lights as the best source of information on this light.
    https://www.action-led-lights.com/co...ant=9586404421

    I also recommend you look at Lupine lights (I don't have a link but you can google it or look up the Lupine thread in this section and contact some of the owners who will be able to direct you to the appropriate vendor). I've never recommended anyone go this route before but looking at your bike ownership list I can tell you have the means and don't mind paying for the best (Lupine IMO). Definitely expensive, definitely overkill but have all the latest features, super high lumen output, built with absolutely the best quality parts and when Lupine upgrades their lights they usually have upgrade kits available to their previous customers. You've gotten lots of good advice from the other posters about what actually works the best in regards to performance and not getting more than what is usable or practical. I have a feeling you may be looking for something more. If not I'm sure you'll enjoy looking at their lights.
    Mole
    Thanks for the info, I have seen the Lupine stuff and was wondering if it was really worth the cost. I don't mind paying...when it is worth it. The discussions on here get way too technical for me, it may as well be a foreign language.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by dustedone View Post
    Just handed my bar lights down to my kid. Kept the Olympia for the helmet and bought a Titan. I only have two rides on the new setup and my observations are:

    Mounting is quick and easy with the band system

    The light head is lighter than it looks and lower profile than the round round LED heads that I was previously using

    I'm happy with the stock light coverage/beam pattern on fast singletrack and faster fireroad descents. No problems with reflection. I'm looking forward to being able to descend the road at daylight speed now.

    I got the 8 cell pack and haven't bumped up against capacity issues yet.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks for the info, do you feel the helmet light is needed?
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcard14 View Post
    Thanks for the info, I have seen the Lupine stuff and was wondering if it was really worth the cost. I don't mind paying...when it is worth it. The discussions on here get way too technical for me, it may as well be a foreign language.
    Lupine is definitely a luxury item. Justifying the price vs. additional performance and added features would be difficult but similar to justifying buying any Specialized Sworks model IMO. You pay a considerable amount more for a little extra performance (which most would consider overkill in the case of the higher level lupines) and knowing you have the best.
    Mole

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    Quote Originally Posted by jcard14 View Post
    Thanks for the info, do you feel the helmet light is needed?
    I always use a helmet light to see through corners/look where the handlebars aren't pointing. Even on road descents - especially ones with signed 10 mph corners.

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    Slapped some bits together from a quicky last night. Might as well be bar only because my helmet light battery crapped out for most of it. Due to varying exposure and limited dynamic range, the video doesn't do justice to the real world illumination. I did cycle through from low to high at times to show the differences between levels.


  18. #18
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    ^despite the issues with the imaging system on the camera adjusting


    we can tell that light throws out a shitload of bright
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  19. #19
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    What kind of camera were you using? Just curious.

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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar View Post
    What kind of camera were you using? Just curious.

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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by dustedone View Post
    Gopro H4B
    Appreciate you posting information on this light. I've only seen a couple of other Titan 4000 owners post anything, both with mounting issues but can see from your video yours is nice and stable. Curious what your bar diameter is, 31.8mm or 35mm?
    Mole

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcard14 View Post
    Thanks for the info, I have seen the Lupine stuff and was wondering if it was really worth the cost. I don't mind paying...when it is worth it. The discussions on here get way too technical for me, it may as well be a foreign language.
    Whether or not the Lupines are worth the money is always going to be a matter of opinion. I'm sure they are very fine lights and Lupine is always upgrading their quiver of lamps. I'm of the opinion though that you don't need to spend a boat-load of money to get a decent set-up ( bars and helmet ) that will absolutely rock.

    For years I've been running a Gloworm X2 on the bars. To complement the X2 I chose the ITUO XP3 which is a three emitter lamp ( using Cree XM-L2 LED's ) The combined output is about 3500-3700 lumen. The GW X2 outputs close to 1500 lumen and the XP3 about 2000-2200 lumen. I love to rock on the fast fire road descents. At 30mph you need to see what's coming up or you might find yourself scraping pieces of your a88 off the road. Fire roads are full of hazards...sand, loose gravel, rocks, tree debris like acorns and pine cones, even fallen trees. Not to mention multiple pot-hole strewn sections as well as some occasional wildlife. Some of this stuff you try to dodge and some of it sometimes you have no choice but to either jump over it of try to ride through it. Yep, been a while for me but all this talk of fire roads has got me thinking of one of my favorite rides that I haven't done in quite some time. Just put new tires on my bike last week so I'm up for that 4 mile bomber downhill run.

    Of course the real question; "Is my body up for it"?. Did a ride last weekend and my thighs are still sore. For some reason most of my rides this year have been on the road. Time to get more time on on the MTB.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by dustedone View Post
    ...Slapped some bits together from a quicky last night.
    Nice video. How I wish I had more of those smoother trail systems where I live. Hey Dust, need some feedback on the Gemini 4000. Did you try feeling the lamp while riding to see how hot it is getting? Just curious.

  24. #24
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    31.8 bars and it wasn't hot enough to notice through my thin gloves but it was only high 60s during the ride and I ran it on low for the climbs so I wouldn't expect it to be hot.

  25. #25
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    That thing looks sick. I can't ever imagine having too much light!
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

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    All of the "negative" comments in the start of this thread got me into going from lurker to user to desparatly try to defend my expensive purchase. Childish I know ;-)

    I have titan on the bars and dou on the helmet and been happy with that for the rides I have done so far.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    No doubt it's bright but do you really need that much light coming off the bars? I have a few of the Gemini lights. I would think an interesting set-up would be Duo on the bars with one medium flood optic and one spot optic and then two Duo's on the helmet using all spot optics. The only problem would be finding a workable solution to mounting two Duo's on the helmet. That would likely require a custom mount setup. Two Duo's with all spots on the helmet would really be bright.

    I've always believed that when deciding what lamps to use that the helmet lamps should be brighter or at least equal to what you have on the bars. Six emitters on the bars is over-kill IMO. No way to match that with any thing on the helmet.
    Over here most people recommend using a stronger light on the bars than on the helmet for riding trails. Lots of rocks and roots on most of our trails. Strong light on the head gives a very flat light without good shadows, since the light is so close to the eyes. Bar only light gives very dark shadows and hard to see whats in the shadows. Seeing the shadows gives more information than the light itself and would suspect that even the strongest helmet light in the world can't fix that. With a helmet ligth that is less intense than the bar light you get some illumination in the shadows without taking them away totally, and you can still see where you are going when going somewhere else than where the bar are pointing.

    For riding more smooth surfaces I also like the of "seeing where my head is pointing" that you get when using a strong helmet light and a weaker bar light. But for rocky and rooty stuff I prefer the bar light to be stronger than the helmet light. The 4000/1500 ratio of the Titan and the Dou works fine for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Instead of overkill, I think it is counter-productive. Too much light reflected off brush and things next to the trail causes your pupils to contract in reaction to the glare.
    Yes, it is probably a bit overkill. Using both at 20 % output is adequate in many riding situations. The dimmed lowest setting of 10% and 400 lumens can still blind other trail users, wished it would go even lower like some lupine models (?). Used on full output I consistently broke my PR from daytime this summer on an abandoned downhill trail last night. So on trails I know, I can ride as fast as in daytime. Did a decent in afternoon sun a couple of weekends ago and then later at night at full output. Was more comfortable at nigth than with low sun, much easier to see the trail at nigth:-) Here the olympia with 4-cell only costs a few pints less than the gemini titan with 6 cells, so even though the olympia would be sufficient, then it's not a lot extra for a bit of overkill

    Yes, in some cases more light can be counterproductive. Like when driving in a snowstorm or fog sometimes it easier to see with the headlamps blinded down than on full output. Can imagine this can happen when bushwacking trough dense overgrown trails, but that has not happend to me so far. More is more, usually :-)

    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Not a lot of user information on the Titan 4000. One of the main reasons IMO is the size/configuration of the light. I think it just takes up too much bar space + the simple band mounting system is a PITA because of the lights size/weight.
    Lots of monting issues in the gemini 2016 thread and other threads here. But also some strange bikes; funky aero road bike stems, electric bikes, 22 mm bars and riser bars with very steep curves. Sometimes the internet filters out the people with problems. For the 6 bikes in our house it would mount without issues on all of them. The later version have an optional set of thicker rubber pads to better clear stem clamps, that was a good addition that many had to modify before.

    It is very stable when mounted and still easy to change the angle and take on/off, On my 35 mm bars it fits very thightly with burly rubberbands. Its only like ~23m thick and ~33mm wide and with two mounts ~8 cm apart, so the center of mass vs contact points is very favorable. Look at dustedone's picture, not going to move even when hammering through a rock garden. Usually not a fan of rubberbands but in this case I like them. The helmet mount for the Duo on the other hand can probably be improved on.

    GPS mounts can be an issue. If I want to use it on my road bike then I would have to change from my usual out-front mount of the gps to putting the gps on the stem. For the enduro bike with short stem (40mm) i have the gps (Edge 520) on a the top cap and plenty clearance for the titan. For the hardtail with a longer stem I put the gps on the stem and still no issue. For those using a large cell phone on the bars it will probably interfere.

    My only mounting issue is the difficulty of using it on a helmet for skiing. Would be nice for downhill backcountry skiing in the dark and some people say putting on a lot of lumen can help against flat light due to low clouds even during daytime. Flat light when offpiste skiing is very annoying especially above tree line. Doesn't matter that the snow is perfect when you can't see it. A company in Northern Norway makes fan cooled 10 000 lumen lights for this purpuse, google Brigth as Day 10000. I migth strap a tube on top on an old bicycle helmet to try. Have seen pictures on the net of a guy doing just that.

    Overheating/stepdown:
    Haven't experienced it on trail, only seen when it playing with then indoors. Think they go down to 20% so I will notice. I only use full output when going rather fast so I don't think it's will ever happen during actual use for my type of use and temperature range. When having the remote at the tumb it's easy to regulate for speed and need, and I use it actively. Full output on the titan is very brigth and a bit of a overdrive mode, not needed most of the time. Other people experience trouble here so YMMV. If you just set it at full output and leave it there for the whole trip then you will probably experience the stepdown.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Since the 4000 is going to be bright I really recommend using separate remotes. As bright as the 4000 is there is going to be times when you don't need to use the helmet lamp. Would be better having the option to control the helmet lamp separately ( to save battery power ).
    Hmm.. That would be a way of making something simple complicated and cumbersome. I'm happy with running one remote controlling both the Duo on the helmet and the Titan on the bars, using the factory preset at 20%, 60% and 100% for both. With the 4 cell, the Duo will last for 3 hours and the Titan will last for 2 hours on 6 cell. I'm using 20% and 60% more often than 100%, so battery life is rarely an issue, but still like that the light with lowest capasity is on the bars where I can see the indicator.


    Quote Originally Posted by jcard14 View Post
    I do prefer not having wires on my head...
    I think the 4-cell is too big to be comfortable on a helmet. It migth work with the 2-cell, but still that's like having a rock permanently attached to your back head. And half the battery life. I prefer having the battery in the open side pocket of my backpack. For the Titan, the 6 and 8-cell comes with a nice velcro bag that you can strap around the top tube. But with a my sloping top tube it slides. Would probably work if one puts a cloth of silicone antislide carpet mesh inbetween, but instead i drilled a hole in a tool bootle and put it inside there. Waterproof, secure, easy to take on/off and no potensial for wear marks. The bottle holder would be of no use anyway with the battery below the top tube on my cramped FS frame.

  27. #27
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    My follow up thoughts/video on the Titan are here:

    http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-...t-1058932.html

  28. #28
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    [Q
    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post

    Not a lot of user information on the Titan 4000. One of the main reasons IMO is the size/configuration of the light. I think it just takes up too much bar space + the simple band mounting system is a PITA because of the lights size/weight.
    Lots of monting issues in the gemini 2016 thread and other threads here. But also some strange bikes; funky aero road bike stems, electric bikes, 22 mm bars and riser bars with very steep curves. Sometimes the internet filters out the people with problems. For the 6 bikes in our house it would mount without issues on all of them. The later version have an optional set of thicker rubber pads to better clear stem clamps, that was a good addition that many had to modify before.

    It is very stable when mounted and still easy to change the angle and take on/off, On my 35 mm bars it fits very thightly with burly rubberbands. Its only like ~23m thick and ~33mm wide and with two mounts ~8 cm apart, so the center of mass vs contact points is very favorable. Look at dustedone's picture, not going to move even when hammering through a rock garden. Usually not a fan of rubberbands but in this case I like them. The helmet mount for the Duo on the other hand can probably be improved on.

    GPS mounts can be an issue. If I want to use it on my road bike then I would have to change from my usual out-front mount of the gps to putting the gps on the stem. For the enduro bike with short stem (40mm) i have the gps (Edge 520) on a the top cap and plenty clearance for the titan. For the hardtail with a longer stem I put the gps on the stem and still no issue. For those using a large cell phone on the bars it will probably interfere.

    My only mounting issue is the difficulty of using it on a helmet for skiing. Would be nice for downhill backcountry skiing in the dark and some people say putting on a lot of lumen can help against flat light due to low clouds even during daytime. Flat light when offpiste skiing is very annoying especially above tree line. Doesn't matter that the snow is perfect when you can't see it. A company in Northern Norway makes fan cooled 10 000 lumen lights for this purpuse, google Brigth as Day 10000. I migth strap a tube on top on an old bicycle helmet to try. Have seen pictures on the net of a guy doing just that.

    Overheating/stepdown:
    Haven't experienced it on trail, only seen when it playing with then indoors. Think they go down to 20% so I will notice. I only use full output when going rather fast so I don't think it's will ever happen during actual use for my type of use and temperature range. When having the remote at the tumb it's easy to regulate for speed and need, and I use it actively. Full output on the titan is very brigth and a bit of a overdrive mode, not needed most of the time. Other people experience trouble here so YMMV. If you just set it at full output and leave it there for the whole trip then you will probably experience the stepdown
    Fit issues I commented about was mostly just from feedback from Titan owners. You may have missed a later post I made on dustedone's video that explains this.

    QUOTE=MRMOLE;13366304]Appreciate you posting information on this light. I've only seen a couple of other Titan 4000 owners post anything, both with mounting issues but can see from your video yours is nice and stable. Curious what your bar diameter is, 31.8mm or 35mm?
    Mole
    [/QUOTE]

    I'm glad the light works great for you but you've got to admit it's an oddball configuration of a light that will present more mounting challenges than most lights. It may work on all your bikes but would not on any of my 12 bikes because I am unwilling to move my computers for a light that makes 3 times the light output I can actually use when a far less expensive 1500 lumen double is optimal "for me" and fits fine. My needs may be different but It's all just raw data for others reading the post to absorb so they can make a informed decision on whether this or another light might be best for their needs.
    Mole
    Last edited by MRMOLE; 10-20-2017 at 07:27 AM.

  29. #29
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    Well, according to the OP he:

    Quote Originally Posted by jcard14 View Post
    just like the thought of flooding the forest with light! I'm certain it is overkill....
    So he seems like a good candidate for a Titan . Peoples needs and desires can be anything from just enough light to ride and as small as possible, to wanting the best possible chance to win the nigth stage at the local enduro race. Or beating your own times on strava at a times of day when there are no people around. On my last daytime visit on that DH trail I was interupted twice with babies, prams and purse dogs. On a dedicated DH trail with berms, jumps and wallrides and stuff. I did stop and smile and patted the dog, but I was hurting inside...

    For my use I like that it is stable and low profile. And for some reason I like that it is centered on the bar. Symmetry Gloworm and lupine also does accomplish that in a sligthly different way.

    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    I'm glad the light works great for you but you've got to admit it's an oddball configuration of a light that will that will present more mounting challenges than most lights. It may work on all your bikes but would not on any of my 12 bikes because I am unwilling to move my computers
    I'm not likely to use the Titan on any other bike than the trail bike. Would probably just use the Duo for anything else or a small self contained light for commuting. But flirting with the thougth of using the Titan on the road bike for a long gravel detour from work where there are no cars and likely no other people. With 28 mm tires on rough roads it wouldn't hurt to see as much as possible. And it would be smart to have a backup in case a ligth suddenly fails on the way down.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Onkelski View Post


    But flirting with the thougth of using the Titan on the road bike for a long gravel detour from work where there are no cars and likely no other people. With 28 mm tires on rough roads it wouldn't hurt to see as much as possible. And it would be smart to have a backup in case a ligth suddenly fails on the way down.
    OK, The Titan 4000 would be awesome for that!
    Mole

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    Quote Originally Posted by Onkelski View Post
    ...Over here most people recommend using a stronger light on the bars than on the helmet for riding trails. Lots of rocks and roots on most of our trails. Strong light on the head gives a very flat light without good shadows, since the light is so close to the eyes. Bar only light gives very dark shadows and hard to see whats in the shadows. Seeing the shadows gives more information than the light itself and would suspect that even the strongest helmet light in the world can't fix that. With a helmet ligth that is less intense than the bar light you get some illumination in the shadows without taking them away totally, and you can still see where you are going when going somewhere else than where the bar are pointing.

    For riding more smooth surfaces I also like the of "seeing where my head is pointing" that you get when using a strong helmet light and a weaker bar light. But for rocky and rooty stuff I prefer the bar light to be stronger than the helmet light. The 4000/1500 ratio of the Titan and the Dou works fine for me.

    .
    I've been riding the rocky-rooty stuff for years. I've found using too much light off the bars to be counter productive. How much is too much?....That's hard to say because it depends on the optical set-up you are using. If you are using a bar lamp that has a max output in the 1800 lumen range and the optic set-up is geared more toward flood that should work. At least with something geared more toward flood you can power down if too bright or if the reflective glare is too much. The key to all night lighting is balance; For the bars it's the balance between output, width of beam pattern and total throw. Too wide and you have little throw. Too narrow and you can't see around turns very well. Too bright and you'll deal with reflective glare and loose the ability to see detail.

    For helmet lights it pretty much the same thing but the balance is different. Since the helmet light is higher it doesn't wash out the things in close as much UNLESS it's a really bright spot pattern. I've found over the years that a multi-emitter intermediate spot pattern off the helmet works great if you've got enough output. With the wider beam it doesn't wash out things closer to the bike as long as I'm not using too much output. I'll generally use both of my lamps on medium 80% of the time I'm riding. For me that's about 1500 combined lumen between the two lamps. When at speed or on more technical stuff I can up the output. Personally, I don't believe in wasting battery power so I'm only going to use the amount of light I need to safely ride. That said sometimes ( and if the trails are fairly straight and moderate enough ) I'll even just turn the helmet light off and ride with just the bar light.

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    Just about to put my Titans to bed after their second winter. Still as bright as anything else out there. I used a pair of Duos before these.
    The only thing I've changed is the outside 2 optics to a flood beam. More than adequate on anything from wide open fire trail to tight single track.
    Low is is fine for climbing with high beam only needed when it gets full on.
    Mounting is as easy as it gets & I love the low profile (compared to Exposures)
    I've only used bar mount lights for the last 15 years & these are as good as they get. I find helmet lights annoying, but that's just me & I'm not changing now.
    Sent from the future to destroy the past.

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    I was following this immediately prior to purchasing, but can now contribute as an owner. I've only done a couple of rides with the 4000L but it really is an awesome setup. One callout... I wasn't thinking it through in regards to the ones from CR being UK ready from a charging perspective lol. My bad. That is to say that the charger has the wrong plug for US/NA. $12 at Target for a travel adapter fixed that issue. Most of the purchase price was covered with store credit, so a few bucks out of pocket was something I could live with but I thought it was worth mentioning for US buyers.

    The amount of light this thing puts out is ridiculous, in a good way. I wanted monster light, and I got it. For the few rides that I've done, I've generally kept the lights on low unless I wanted a bit more reach in some serious cover in which case I kick it up to medium or occasionally high. I'm still testing the waters of battery life and such too, but as far as heat goes the only time I've noticed them get warm is when stopping to look at wildlife etc. otherwise it's a total non-issue. Mileage may vary but when I've run them on high I haven't really noticed any issue with glare/depth and so on. I definitely think John is up to something though with changing out the outboard lenses for flood. I expect that is probably a darn near perfect setup and was considering as much even before mine got here.

    The lights came with an extra cord section but fortunately I can run the battery up forward far enough that I have enough reach with just the dongle off the lights and the one off the battery and I still have full range of motion on the bars.

    If I had one complaint it would be that the rubber bands for mounting the lights to the bars could be just a hair bigger. I'm using the larger ones that they provide and getting them to go around the bars and hook is a bear. Hopefully the bands will stretch and tad and this will get easier. Once they're on there though, they're solid as a rock and with the larger spacers it rides over the top of my stem perfectly.

    If I can get some decent pics with the SLR of the light output, I'll post them here asap. The ones I've taken so far with my cell phone just don't convey how much light this thing puts out. Next step is adding a Duo to my helmet that I can pair with the the Titan because it still can't see around corners but I'm still glad I went with the bar mounted Titan first. Even with the massive output from the bar mount, I'm now coming around on helmet mounted setups. Still needed.

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    How do you change the outside beams to flood?

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    Quote Originally Posted by RAG2 View Post
    How do you change the outside beams to flood?
    You just neeed to remove the faceplate (bezel) and that will give you access to the optics. Remove the old optic and replace with what ever you decide to change to. I'd contact Jim @ Action-LED-Lights for a recommendation on which optic would be the best for what you want to do.
    Mole

    Important tip! Make sure your light is completely cool when changing optics. Emitters are easily damaged when warm
    .

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    And make sure you keep the screws tight. I've lost 2 so far. Not sure where to get more.
    Sent from the future to destroy the past.

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