Dont cheat me, im expert in using crap light- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Dont cheat me, im expert in using crap light

    OK

    so I ordered a new light because I am an idiot...

    when it arrives I will try to describe how this thing does

    Gonex 360

    LED Bicycle Light Gonex 360 Degree Rotation CREE XM L T6 Headlight IP 6 6MODES | eBay

    I think it was line item 1 which meant I had to have it
    ---

    • 1. Bicycle enthusiasts, top equipment, have a fever was recommended to buy




  2. #2
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    960 lumens. that's awefully low for a cheap chinese light. Looks like the standard battery pack though, so it should last for hours and hours.

  3. #3
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    I have that one and it's pretty good for commuting/urban usage. Could be usable in MTB. Few years ago I would be delighted to use it on the bars.
    When you just wan't to be seen you can just use outer ring (steady or flashing), otherwise you use central led (mine is XM-L2) with a bit wide hotspot.

    Well the price of yours is somewhat to high. At Kaidomain you cand find the head only for $13. There are several variants. Also way back at their pages you can find this and this with wide lenses for bit more $.

  4. #4
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    its really not a bad light, lacking a bit for trail use but good for urban/bike path stuff. I honestly see nothing wrong with it, think most of us "light geeks" have one or 2 of them lol.

    Watts: Hope thats sarcasm

  5. #5
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    yeah I am interested for the road bike...this has more levels and that ring thing

    will be testing in the woods and road rides home...see what it does...will post up more info but not an exhaustive test...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Watts: Hope thats sarcasm
    somewhat, but not 100%. That is still a lot of battery for that light. At the low setting, I wouldn't be surprised if it went for 4 hours without problem. Maybe longer.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post

    • 1. Bicycle enthusiasts, top equipment, have a fever was recommended to buy


    I found this part kinda confusing...

    7. After the switch, 6 open 2, red switch for outer ring switch, 1 file 2 file for the outer ring is light, flashing. Black switch for headlight switch T6, 1 when the light, 2 file 3 file light, weak light, 1,2 3 file 3 seconds long into the flash.


    I'd actually like this for my commuter since it's not as bright as my trail lights. All my trail lights in flash mode are WAY to bright for winter commuting...

    Can anyone who has one translate for me? Does this think shine the main light and flash the ring? Can the ring flash faster than 3 seconds...

    The "file" confused me....

    thanks!

  8. #8
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    What language would you like for me to translate that into?

  9. #9
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    when i get it I will translate

    what caught my attention was the ring mode, it has it's own switch and appears easy to dump to ring to avoid blinding yet be seen, then pop XML back on...

    that and with the full kit I have the clamp (I hate clamps) or rubber strap (me likes) to strap to bike...so I am thinking road bike duty. woods too [since i carry a headlight the handlebar light is really only to define shadows and height of roots and rocks]

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by the-one1 View Post
    What language would you like for me to translate that into?
    something usable....

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
    when i get it I will translate

    what caught my attention was the ring mode, it has it's own switch and appears easy to dump to ring to avoid blinding yet be seen, then pop XML back on...

    that and with the full kit I have the clamp (I hate clamps) or rubber strap (me likes) to strap to bike...so I am thinking road bike duty. woods too [since i carry a headlight the handlebar light is really only to define shadows and height of roots and rocks]
    Thanks! That's what I was hoping for.

  12. #12
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    The picture on kd explains the modes:
    https://manager.kaidomain.com/Upload...8044579374.jpg

    I would like to know if you can see the ring from the side. That would help with getting T-boned.

  13. #13
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    Yes the ring can be seen from the side.
    https://manager.kaidomain.com/Upload...0000_small.jpg

    and modes are as explained at Kaidomain page:

    Black Button: Hi > Mid > Low > Strobe (Long press for 3 seconds)
    Red Button: Hi > Strobe

    Edit: Red button operates ring part of the light
    Last edited by ledoman; 09-03-2015 at 01:59 AM.

  14. #14
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    I ended up ordering from KD since it was $12.97. I only need the light head. Good to know about side viz!

  15. #15
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    OK,

    my quick little review:

    I may spend some time 'tuning the light' and sealing it up.....then it would be really nice. out of the box it is a turd, not gonna lie

    Nice design,

    CRAP execution, I got boned. I know why the light heads alone are 12 bucks. this thing blows. (but works)

    1) light has zero water protection, zero sweat protection. If you get
    this wet or sweat on it, it will wick down into the unit

    2) internals are assembled fine, wires and solder all really good

    3) heat sinking looks good

    4) the switch assembly end is layers with a threaded collar.

    pcb with two switches, then the collar-unit you thread on...the collar holds a plastic disc with two flat metal buttons, rubber gasket, ...the collar grabs the buttons and turns them when tightening...twisting the internal wires. you have to pre-twist them in the opposite direction to reassemble light.

    the bad news here
    is assembling the light twists on the 2 underlying switches on the pcb and there is no way to fully tighten the light or the switch buttons drag on the switches in the PCB and rotate off, so then a button press doesn't work. I don't have pics but the end result is you have a loose button end assembly...it stays put but cannot be fully tightened.

    5) the battery pack ...boned

    end connector is a press-fit but the light connector does not mate with my battery pack. it works but there is no way to 'pop' it together they don't match up. it is not a screw fitting. I tried hard to make them pop it is not happening. so, you'd need to strap this down on the bike to prevent them from pulling apart

    6) the big center light is a narrow beam with a big artifact ring, would be about useless on high speed st, ok for road. annoying ring

    7) the end circular lit-up ring is about 12 smd leds and is very bright for what is is...but when it is on there is so much spill up in your eyes your night vision will go kaput. I needed to mcguyver a shield over the top half of the light so it would not blind me.

    BUT for making yourself visible, this lit up ring is pretty cool and looks wicked cool from a distance. bling for the bike for sure...

    there is a glow in the dark o-ring on the front which glows green when light is off....don't know what use this is other than neato factor or if you need to find the light in the dark and it has been under a few hours since it was last on


    -----------
    SUMMARY

    I look forward to using this light only on road,

    in the DRY

    as the lit up front ring is cool as heck....and I can pop the center LED on when there is no traffic and it is very bright, but if this thing gets wet.sweat water will intrude six-ways-to-sunday

    will need to use a different battery pack or solder on different ends to make
    the power connection bomb-proof. for now I will just tie it down with my awesome strap so it won't jiggle free

    mounting options are many but the one I want (rubber o ring) only allows straight aiming, no slight turn to left or right.



    --------
    yeah I know crap light

    and this is definitely one....I consider this a waste of money unless you want do some bench-work and seal it up and make it water tight, and dremel the switch assembly so the collar doesn't force the switches to rotate when tightening.



    NOT an MTB light

  16. #16
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    Hold the switches with your thumb while tightening the ring. Standard procedure for tightening something that has a an out threaded collar

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Hold the switches with your thumb while tightening the ring. Standard procedure for tightening something that has a an out threaded collar
    doesn't work in this case,

    the plastic insert in the collar is way too tight.

    I used an awl, trying to 'pin it' still couldn't do it. I will need to grind the circumference of the plastic with a dremel to reduce it...to do as you suggest and what I already tried


    EDIT: resolved

    after some grinding of the plastic I found out how it should be used

    you pop the switch button assembly itself out of the collar

    then you screw the collar on tight which reaching in with a pick and fixing the
    PCB from moving

    then you press the switch buttons and snap the plastic base into the collar, it is held there by friction

    makes it impossible to unscrew the collar without damaging the pcb or at least twisting, as I have no idea how I could pop the plastic base out of the collar if collar is still screwed on, I can only do it if it is removed and I can finger-fiddle it out

    anyhow, still a crap design, but I have it assembled and tight and am back to liking this thing. still, if it gets wet, water is gonna flood it, it has no real attempt at being water resistant.
    Last edited by 127.0.0.1; 09-25-2015 at 07:12 AM.

  18. #18
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    I usually only use my lights on the trails, but brought my new Yinding on an all-nighter on the roadbike a couple of weeks back. With a even a crappy battery pack you get at least 6 hours of runtime, on my new 4-cell pack with 3350mAh panasonic cells poached from Xiaomi power banks (see the other tread..), I would theoretically get 15+ hours (and the 6-cell 23+ hours..). Low was the only mode I need for road riding, plenty bright and pleasant.

    I found the yinding with stock optics has a very pleasant beam pattern for road use, much more pleasant than my Magicshine 808E which I also brought along (I thought the yinding would be my backup). Both take 0.4A on low and my 808E had been upgraded with a XM-L2 U2 3C emitter (on a Noctigon), so it should be a fair comparison. The yinding also weighs less.

    As for side lighting and avoiding getting T-boned, at the time you want cars to see you they will be somewhat in front of you. If they are directly on your side, you will either be out of their way before they get there, or you are screwed anyways because they are too close to brake or avoid you anyways. I don't see the need for a side light.

  19. #19
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    I've been MTB hammering with this light and it is acceptable but ONLY if you also have a headlight. this thing is awesome to light up the size and shape of chunder...but I found out last night it is useless for cornering by itself, the beam is bright but narrow

    my headlight...I forgot to change battery and my zebralight allows me to check battery condition with 4 quick presses of the switch, it will blink-out the battery state. 4 is good, 1 is real low, like 10 minutes at most on high then limp mode

    so I am riding and it's getting dark and I remember dammit forgot to load a freshie in my h600...I check status...1 blink. faaaaaak....anyhow completely dark now and hammering with the gonex and I had no headlight (I did but it was 150lumen limp, and with a high cri, way overpowered by the gonex) and wow the gonex was the narrowest handlebar light I have ever used.

    gonex on bars fine in woods but MUST be accompanied by another light, or else you can't rail corners as well, they are pitch black. gonex is awesome though it has a lot of forward throw, so when straightened out you can plan your attack for much yardage

    my plan though is use gonex for roadbike anyhow, but I happen to be using

    zebralight on all rides
    gonex on 27.5 hardtail
    unitied PA light on fatbike (this is the best one for actual lighting so far, by a lot!)
    yinding on road bike

    EDIT: I may decide to fill 1/2 the front reflector with aerogel crumbs, this always works to increase the width of a beam and make it more front-floody, yet still retain most of the throw... I did this on a shadow bl21 and it worked awesome.
    Last edited by 127.0.0.1; 09-25-2015 at 01:49 PM.

  20. #20
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    The ring actually looks interesting, but it seems the light head is pretty bad if it has no water resistance. The best part of this review to me is the fact that you are using a Zebralight bike riding. I bought the H600w and after seeing how brilliant it is I immediately ordered a h602w. I havent used them biking yet , but plan to. Perfect EDC, the best headlamp/flashlight going, and awesome modes, tints, multiple beam options, and their new models are offering hi cri brilliant looking options. The overall best most useful lights around if you ask me and I've used quite a few. I think the h600w will make a nice helmet light having a lot more throw than the h602w. Im gonna hopefully get out this weekend and try the h600w with the nitefighter bt40s on the bars and probably the h602w on the other side of the bars. They are all neutral tints and should work well together. I'll make sure to charge the batteries first though lol.

  21. #21
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    same here. I really think hard about lights and have used other helmet lights but they all have something annoying. battery case, cables, mount issues..whatever

    zebralight.

    ziptie the rubber mount to the front of the helmet with three zip ties in a sideways capital I configuration, the zl is easy to aim where you want it, and bright as heck

    and nothing single 18650 is lighter. this is key, you don't have any noticeable weight

    I use a h600w mkII high cri on second highest level, good for two hours + on one 18650 3400mah

    made a mistake naming is h602, I have an h602 but use that for night time tasks, not riding.


    NOTE: gonex...If you have dark adjusted eyes, the ring only... is serviceable to be able to get out of the woods, it does provide a feeble beam that gets better as your eyeballs adjust to the dark.

    but I care about the ring on the road between the hauz and the woods. very very visible and hey it is a ring, so it looks 'bling' why not ?

    -yinding, low mode still too bright to auto drivers
    -unitedpa light, the low mode is acceptable
    -gonex, low mode (ring mode acceptable)
    -zebralight, I can aim it away from cars, so riding on road no big deal just tilt head down...even on high, it is high cri so it doesn't blast the retina like a cool white...(it looks more like a weak incan not an advanced XML)

  22. #22
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    new fav commuter light

    This is my new favorite commuter light. Works great during the day with blinky ring light. Then I use the blinking ring and main lamp to see when riding home since it's getting dark now.

    I may just put some tape over the open holes in the casing if I get caught in some rain as a temporary fix to keep it from dying on me.

  23. #23
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    The holes in the side aren't a leak issue. The inside casing is a solid piece that holds everything. Then the outside is slide on over it. I would check the orings on either end, if they are ok then your probably fine for rain. If not you can put orings in it (from hardware store)

  24. #24
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    Got caught in a light drizzle for 20 miles this morning. No issues so far. Still digging this light.

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