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  1. #1
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    Dedoming

    So as an experiment before I risk mutilating any valuable lamp heads beyond repair, dedomed an old CW XM-L MJ-808 clone that's still wired through the tape of my commuter. Just used a hair dryer to loosen the adhesive, pulled 'er off. Definitely warmed up the color, but still not that close to 3C. Then, this being XM-L rather than XM-L2 maybe change would not be all that dramatic? Anyway, interesting thing is, that contrary to expectation, beam is now much broader than in comparable set up using XM-L2 T5 5B1 and dual elliptical diffusing lenses ("Wide Angle" lenses from Action-LED) oriented at right angles to form a grid, as I posted about before. So maybe reflectorized lamps and those that incorporate TIRs exhibit opposite effects from dedoming? Anyway now I've got a semi-neutral super-flood to complement that NW diamond spot.

    'Nother lesson here is how very relative a thing is color. When comparing my NW 5C Yinding against any true 3C light, the YD will look pinkish and the 3C will appear blue-green (viewed individually, both just seem soft white.) Now, comparing the de-domed XM-L 808 style lamp against my NW XM-L2 3C KD 880 clone, the 808 one looks blue-green and the 880 one kinda pink. Even my iPad captures this relative difference.

    Dedomed "808" XM-L with dual elliptical diffusing lenses, High
    Dedoming-image.jpg

    Dedomed XM-L versus 2x NW XM-L2 3C KD
    Dedoming-image.jpg

    Wondering now whether it would be worth dedoming the XM-L2 U2 inside the KD Angel Eye that I just modded with red tail light repair tape for use as a rear blinkie. Assume it would reduce the blue so that the light from the center becomes less magenta and closer to ruby. But not sure it wouldn't ruin the beam from the LEDDNA style elliptical optic. As modded this lamp is more "be seen" than "see," but it is still helpful to project some kind of red spot on the path down behind the bike. If the same thing happens as with the 808 clone, afraid the beam would be too diffuse and blurry, even if the light itself still provided the same or enhanced visibility, line of sight.

  2. #2
    RAKC
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    the hole thing is hard to explain, i dont fully understand it. But cant really compare effects of dedome reflectors vs TIR optics, and XML vs L2 and 1 emitter vs 2. PLus the 808 has a very wide reflector cone vs depth over 880 is much smaller diameter cones.





    Then you add in lens types, how the reflectors are finished etc.





    Only way to truely test is same emitter class, same set up. Which is what i have right now, balck yinding was test run, waiting for gas to finish doing its thing for the other one thats on a noctigon to put in my blue one. Really see how much running noctigons and bigger battery wire (both have 20awg wire for driver to emitter now) makes a difference. But stock optics of yinind vs LEDDNA optics made a big tint difference and output difference. LEDDNA superior BY FAR. Stock yinding with 1 dedomed couldnt notice much of a difference from med to high, LEDDNA, you notice it. Low is pretty goo, medium is plenty and high is for being a A**HOLE now lol. And this keeps a very close to 3c tint, cant tell a difference one way or the other. Tint wise I need to check both my yindings (took dedommed mess of yellow out of blue one, put normal 3cs back in while waiting for these 1a's to arrive) and light up a white wall, see if I can actually see a difference.





    Final thought, hair dryer to dedome......great way to loose phosphor. It worked for you luckily, but seams only way I have tried that works consistently is letting gasoline remove the last little bit of the dome off the phosphor and plate. Not hot enough and just popping the dome more often than not takes phosphor with it. Hell even solid heat alone failed me both times. I heated mine as if I was going to remove the emitter, took heat away made sure emitter had cooled just enough that I knew solder wasnt weak, gently partially crushed the emitter dome with flat pliers. used tweezers to remove most of it which just pratically falls off leaving little silicone behind. set in gas for about 30-40 mins, reinsed with rubbing alcohol, blew on it hard a couple times. And done, perfect dedome.





    Need to be able to make sure dome comes off leaving all the phosphor behind. Not sure what happens overall in the end besides ruins tint though.

    Oh and btw , not meant to be harsh, brain is off tonight, bad couple of days. Just trying to help us both learn about dedommg.

  3. #3
    RAKC
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    I'm seeing ur tint thing now!!!. Put ss x3 and yinding dedomed on a white wall... Yinding looks more like sun/car headlight color but ssx3 has that ever slight pink hew to it.... Didn't expect that from 3c tint...

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