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  1. #1
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    2020 cheap lights thread

    A lot of the products in older discussions about budget lights can no longer be found. Flash in the pan products.

    What worthwhile budget lights have you purchased lately that are available as of the last quarter of 2019 at least? Under $50? Under $100?

    I noticed that, although NiteRider is not know for "budget" lights, the Lumina 900 Boost can be found for $50.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    I noticed that, although NiteRider is not know for "budget" lights, the Lumina 900 Boost can be found for $50.
    That's a deal for a quality light. Mebee I'll get the wife one.
    Lumina 900 Boost


    My neighbor just ordered this from KD, I'll post feedback when it comes in:
    BL2S 2 X CREE XM-L2 U3 2200 LUMENS BIKE LIGHT


    [edit] Looks like Darth Lefty posted on this light over on the 2018 thread.

    BTW:

    2020 cheap lights thread-screenshot-2019-10-05-20.48.39.jpg

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    Sofirn SD05.
    https://www.banggood.com/Sofirn-SD05...r_warehouse=CN

    with the code AC19
    it cost 18$

    the light delivers with a 5000mah 21700 Batttery ~ 300 lumen in low for 11 Hours or
    in medium mode ~900 Lumen for 3 Hours full regulated!!!
    High mode will be set from a timer after 4 minutes down to medium mode.

    with a 4000mah battery you will have near 2,5 Hours Runtime.
    i will make next week screenshot but for example take this for the beam.

    you can use 18650 batterys to in the light with lower runtimes.

    the beam throws far and is wide so overall great.
    IF the battery becomes near empty ~90% the light ramps down to ~100-150 lumen and make 3 blinks every 2 minutes to indicate you , its near empty and replace it with a full one.
    a great feature to.


    this small light outperforms easy my KD2 with a 4x18650 pack with 3200mah Zells!!

    BL2S and KD2 are not fully regulated lights they become darker over runtime.

    for helmet mount
    https://www.banggood.com/BIKIGHT-Bik...r_warehouse=CN

    on the handlebar i am using this types but my version look a little bit ´different.
    https://www.amazon.com/Ezyoutdoor-fl...BRKPE80BRA28NX

    NiteRider have no challlangers for the SD05.
    https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...l#post13886770

    Niterider lights are not fully regulated like the SD05 so they become darker and darker over time.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by lostplaces View Post

    with a 4000mah battery you will have near 2,5 Hours Runtime.
    i will make next week screenshot but for example take this for the beam.

    Maybe you know the answer to something I've been wondering about the testing methods for output charts like this that seem to be commonly available for flashlights (which is cool/awesome!). Do they have any air flow (fan) to cool them and ambient temperature standards + if kept cooler would these lights produce higher sustainable outputs?

    Niterider lights are not fully regulated like the SD05 so they become darker and darker over time...
    Unfortunately Nightrider and most of the other single cell lights available are affected by this to different degrees. A few of the better single celll bike lights do have nicer beam patterns (Nightriders newest models are very good and Cygolite) and most have more usable UI programs so I guess you have to choose your poison.

    Nice post, lost of good information here!!!
    Mole

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    Quote Originally Posted by lostplaces View Post
    This looks promising and that price is ridiculous. How you used and tested this product, or are you basing this on the manufacturer's claims?

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    I paid about the same for the 950 boost ($50) from Amazon a year or two ago. It's a little heavy for the helmet but something one can easily get used to. I feel tired neck after a full evening ride -getting used to it now with partial night rides.

    The beam is solid and definitely provides enough light.

    The niterider did interfere with my cateye wireless bicycle computer. It does not affect my Garmin with wheel sensor (as far as I've seen so far, but only tested -have not ridden a ride with the light running and Garmin recording).

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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    This looks promising and that price is ridiculous. How you used and tested this product, or are you basing this on the manufacturer's claims?
    https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-d...re-780122.html

    no i measure anythink what i but just for my interesst how much companys are lie in there promises.
    i buy 10 Years ago alot of overprised junk, so i start to check all.
    others here do it to.

    or to pick out outstanding lights like the SD05 for example, it outperformces lights in the 100$- 150$+ range easy so a great buy.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by lostplaces View Post
    Sofirn SD05.
    https://www.banggood.com/Sofirn-SD05...r_warehouse=CN

    with the code AC19 18$
    Still intrigued. It looks like the option from Band Good does not include a 21700 cell. a two-pack of Sofirn 21700 batteries, and a Basen charger ends up being about $46 with that discount. Amazon has a Sofirn SD05 with a single battery and charger for a few bucks less. based on how fast and easy it is to deal with Amazon, I am going to do the latter.

    I have some 18650 cells and a charger for them, so those should serve as nice backup power. I have some Twofish blocks, so we'll see if those are big enough to strap the light to my bike.

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    I just bought a BL2S from Kaidomain. $40 shipped for the full kit with battery and charger. I'll tell you in a month if it's any good for a ride home and in a few months if I really like it. But it's certainly a lot brighter and less blue than my old Cygolite 300. With a small head unit and remote battery it's more secure on the handlebar too.

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    Hello light gurus!

    I'm looking for a self-contained light that won't break the bank - sub $50 including the batteries.
    I don't need anything fancy - 45mins on 800 lumens or so is good enough for me, but the tint must be on the neutral side. I ride mostly technical single tracks with moderate pace and they're not very twisty. I don't ride in full darkness, but the days are getting shorter, so I need some assistance on my way down.
    For now it will be my main source of light, but if I get hooked to night riding I may buy a second source.

    I know the NW tint usually means higher price, so if necessary I may increase the budget.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zayphod View Post

    I know the NW tint usually means higher price, so if necessary I may increase the budget.
    Tint color have nothing to do with the price.
    you see it on all lights from kaidomain and the KD2.

    alot companys offering there lights in 2,3 or more color options without any difference.

    my Trail light last year was the Emisar D4S and all colors cost same price.
    only XP-L HI LED option cost a little bit more about the higher LED Price then SST-20.

    my light this year will be the Astrolux mf01 mini if the start shippping it next week and same, all colors same price.

    basicly i agree with you 6000-7000K a horrible light.
    4000K is a dream on the Trail, and if i get 4000K 95 CRI its

    i have stopped ~4 Years ago to use cool white bluish light on the streets or in the woods.

    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    Still intrigued. It looks like the option from Band Good does not include a 21700 cell. a two-pack of Sofirn 21700 batteries, and a Basen charger ends up being about $46 with that discount.
    you can use 18650 Batterys to in the light.

    cheap 20700/21700 cost ~5$.
    in the past i use this one in lights.
    https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/2170...m-battery.html

    i switch to this type cost he losse no sigificant capacity in winter conditions.
    https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/2170...00mah-30a.html

    cheap chargers <10$


    but you are in right if you not have a charger and batterys you need ~15$ add.
    but not 25$

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    $13.50. I just bought the light itself.

    The pics in the listing shows one cord...but it actually somes with two connections. One is the standard connector and the other is a USB connector. The wire splits into two. I'll be using the USB connector with a power bank inside the pack. 4.2v/5v USB.

    Rode on the street last night and it looks like it works pretty good.

    Three settings, Hi/Low/Strobe

    2020 cheap lights thread-img_20191009_200957.jpg

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3289...75574c4d4GJInu

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    Quote Originally Posted by lostplaces View Post
    Tint color have nothing to do with the price.
    you see it on all lights from kaidomain and the KD2.

    alot companys offering there lights in 2,3 or more color options without any difference.

    my Trail light last year was the Emisar D4S and all colors cost same price.
    only XP-L HI LED option cost a little bit more about the higher LED Price then SST-20.

    my light this year will be the Astrolux mf01 mini if the start shippping it next week and same, all colors same price.

    basicly i agree with you 6000-7000K a horrible light.
    4000K is a dream on the Trail, and if i get 4000K 95 CRI its

    i have stopped ~4 Years ago to use cool white bluish light on the streets or in the woods.
    So what can you recommend in my case?

    Since it will be my first light, probably I should start from the helmet. So something with a narrow beam that goes far? And later something floodier for the bar. Is this the recommended combination?

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    For a beginner single light, I'd not go with a super narrow throwy light as you'll be struggling to see your surroundings. For the budget I'd go with a flashlight and a mount. I'd probably recommend the Sofirn SD05 with coupon code (though I've not seen it in action yet): https://m.banggood.com/Sofirn-SD05-X...oaAvUHEALw_wcB . My understanding is that it's on the cooler side of neutral white (or neutral side of cool white). The Sofirn 21700 cells have been tested to be decent. I don't have a 21700 battery charger to recommend (see BLF reviews for reputable/safe chargers). Various flashlight mounts out there (including just using Velcro or silicone straps), but lostplaces posted up a nice goproounted flashlight mount: https://m.banggood.com/BIKIGHT-Bike-...a&rmmds=search. Pickup at least two cells and you've got a backup.

    There are numerous other flashlight options, but this one has good features and output levels at a great price with the coupon. And being a flashlight it serves other purposes as well.

    Note that you could go with the Sofirn SP40 in 4000k (NW) and it has a built in USB charger: https://m.banggood.com/Sofirn-SP40-XPL-1200lm-3000k4000k-USB-Rechargeable-Headlamp-18650-18350-LED-Flashlight-p-1567226.html?akmClientCountry=America&rmmds=search

    -Garry

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    Thank you for the reply, Garry. Yeah, Sofirn SD05 looks like a great flashlight for the money and the only thing that bothers me is the tint.

    P.S. Isn't Sofirn SP40 too floody for a helmet light?

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    I dont like Cool white light in the Woods to.
    I put in a 4000K LED 20mm board.

    http://kaidomain.com/Flashlight-DIY-...80-LED-Emitter

    the one in the SD05 is a 24mm easy to replace , open 2 srews unsolder 2 wires.....



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    What handlebar holder are you using for that Sofirn SD05 lostplaces?

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    Looks like the Sofirn SD05 is on back order also the Sofirn SP40 XPL on bangood.
    Expected Shipping Date: 2019-10-27 for the Sorfirn SD05

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    ROTFL!!!!

    -Garry

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    Might just be better than this poor fella's solution......

    https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...0-1117999.html
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

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    Vancbiker are you thinking of making a custom mount for that Ryobi shop light LOL.

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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    ROTFL!!!!

    -Garry
    It reminds me of an old Wile E Coyote scene where the roadrunner impersonates a train coming out of a tunnel.

    Love the battery clamps, its like they expect the guy to wear a car battery like a fanny pack.

    In other news Welight posted some early information about the XML3 on BLF. Slightly more powerful than a SST40, 1500 lumens at five amps and has bond wires visable.

    Teaser XML-3 Coming 5A rated | BudgetLightForum.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by caRpetbomBer View Post
    Vancbiker are you thinking of making a custom mount for that Ryobi shop light LOL.
    Yeah baby! The next big thing for sure.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

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    I am going to try this seems like a good deal https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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    That one isn't much good. See the reviews on it as a "Boruit" branded headlamp (sorry, I don't have a link to that one nor a model# - I rememeber a Russian website with a good review and pics - use Google Translate). If I remember correctly, that dual emitter one has terrible heatsinking. The "good" one is this one, however it's not a thrower and nowhere hear 1,000 lumen output! The one you linked isn't worth that price; you should be able get the Boruit headlamps for around $9 to $15.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    That one isn't much good. See the reviews on it as a "Boruit" branded headlamp (sorry, I don't have a link to that one nor a model# - I rememeber a Russian website with a good review and pics - use Google Translate). If I remember correctly, that dual emitter one has terrible heatsinking. The "good" one is this one, however it's not a thrower and nowhere hear 1,000 lumen output! The one you linked isn't worth that price; you should be able get the Boruit headlamps for around $9 to $15.

    -Garry
    thanks for the info much appreciated

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    Does anyone know the maximum amperage draw of the Sofirn SD05?

    Researching 21700 batteries, I notice that some batteries are formulated to be longer lasting with lower amperage draw while others are optimized for higher amperage draw with lower mAh ratings.

    What is the amperage draw of a flashlight like the Sofirn SD05?

    Which type of battery would be better for the Sofirn SD05?

    maximum continuous draw of 10A with a higher mAh rating (longer lasting)
    maximum continuous draw of 35A with a lower mAh rating.

    It seems like a lot of batteries are judged in the context of vaping which has a high amperage draw, but I'm not sure how that compares to flashlights.

    The led, itself, lists a "Maximum Drive Current" of 3A (6 V) but I'm not sure how much draw the rest of the flashlight electronics adds or if this stat is even meaningful. https://www.cree.com/led-components/...xlamp-xhp50-2/

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    Quote Originally Posted by jindustry View Post
    Does anyone know the maximum amperage draw of the Sofirn SD05?
    under 7 Amps, and that only for 3 minutes.
    and only if a battery can deliver it, if you put in a 15 year old laptop battery, the light steps down to lower current.

    the SD05 has the high mode"~2600 lumen" limited with a 3 minute timer.
    only the 1000 lumen mid mode you can use all the time.

    Quote Originally Posted by jindustry View Post

    What is the amperage draw of a flashlight like the Sofirn SD05?

    Which type of battery would be better for the Sofirn SD05?

    maximum continuous draw of 10A with a higher mAh rating (longer lasting)
    maximum continuous draw of 35A with a lower mAh rating.
    the SD05 can over time only deliver a constant output of ~ 1000 lumen and the draw from the battery is small ~ 1,3 Amps so you can use what you want.


    in summer or warm conditions high capacity batterys the better one.
    in winter high drain batterys about there lower internal resistance deliver better and longer runtimes.


    for winter use take the samsung 40T with 4000mah for summer any 5000mah battery.
    same in 18650 size, for winter samsung 30Q for summer you can use any 3500mah battery.


    Quote Originally Posted by jindustry View Post
    The led, itself, lists a "Maximum Drive Current" of 3A (6 V) but I'm not sure how much draw the rest of the flashlight electronics adds or if this stat is even meaningful. https://www.cree.com/led-components/...xlamp-xhp50-2/
    if you take the Astrolux EC01, the XHP50 draws ~ 12 Amps or more."~ 4000 lumen from an XHP50"

    the SD05 is not an heavy dragster like the EC01, any battery is ok for it what you have at home.

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    I would like to try the SD05 just for fun, problem is have to buy mount, battery and charger. How much would that end up to be?

    Anyone found any Chinese product that actually have a cut off and wide beam that competes with famous manufacturers?

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    Lostplaces, thank you for the detailed recommendations. Very helpful - especially the specific battery recommendations to a light novice like myself!

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    Quote Originally Posted by sandro87 View Post

    Anyone found any Chinese product that actually have a cut off and wide beam that competes with famous manufacturers?
    what is a famous manufacture?
    i have seen 90% of overpriced junk from alot of manufactures the last years.


    to find a good Road light is a life task.

    i am using now an acebeam BK10, befor i used a two modified Light coz nothing out of the box has fulfilled my wishes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lostplaces View Post
    what is a famous manufacture?
    i have seen 90% of overpriced junk from alot of manufactures the last years.


    to find a good Road light is a life task.

    i am using now an acebeam BK10, befor i used a two modified Light coz nothing out of the box has fulfilled my wishes.
    Like Ravemen and Fenix.

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    Fenix i know for ~ 10 Years as a medium price range flashlight producer and selling worldwide.
    on the world market fenix is one of the big players for flashlights.

    but for Road lightning they have produced to that time only 2 produkts what are to use for that task, BC35R and BC25R.

    Raveman i never read befor some weeks here, looks like cheap XM-L aliexpress light with a glued in battery and a ripple lens.
    Its also looks so that they have only this one and only product and sell it in different sizes "1 and 2 LEDs and 1 18650 glued in or 2 of them".

    in europe where i life nobody owns that stuff and it looks very overpriced for that what it is.

    XM-L LED based lights are from the year ~2012, today you will find this LED only in ultra low quality or cheap made products coz they are outdatet.

    take a convoy S2 XM-L put in a ripple lens= raveman with changeable battery for ~10$

    i dont see here the famous point on the road light market from one of them.

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    So you think the ravemen pr1200 for example is overpriced and shitty?

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    Need to keep in mind that lostplaces has a super narrow point of view about what is good and everything else is crap. You would be much better served to listen to advice from people like CatManDo or MrMole who don't carry such extreme bias.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

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    Got a KD ? for you guys that have ordered from them.

    I ordered the BL70 from KD back on 10/8. Below is the tracking info. I've emailed both the delivery people and KD and no response. The package arrived at LAX on 10/12 but since then nothing.

    Take a look and let me know if this sounds as usual. If not is there another way to contact them as there doesn't seem to be a response now.

    Thx

    2019-10-12 18:34LAX / Shipment arrived at airport of destination country
    2019-10-12 11:47HKG / shipment departed from airport of origin country
    2019-10-11 21:30HKG / Hand over to airline.
    2019-10-11 21:20HONGKONG / Arrived at Hong Kong hub.
    2019-10-11 07:04Domestic Air Cargo Termina,Shenzhen,China / Depart from facility to service provider.
    2019-10-11 03:00Domestic Air Cargo Termina,Shenzhen,China / Shipment arrived at facility and measured.
    2019-10-11 03:00Domestic Air Cargo Termina,Shenzhen,China / Fpx picked up shipment.
    2019-10-11 00:44EN ROUTE TO DHL ECOMMERCE
    2019-10-11 00:40ELECTRONIC NOTIFICATION RECEIVED: YOUR ORDER HAS BEEN PROCESSED AND TRACKING WILL BE UPDATED SOON
    2019-10-10 14:14

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    What KD have to do with the import prozess and time what it need in your country?

    in my country it need for my orders ~2-18 days do pass the import customer service on the Airport.

    call them if you think your Airport need to long.

    On KD all my orders need ~ 2 weeks to arrive at home.
    i always take free shipping so i can not check Tracking.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by lostplaces View Post
    i have seen 90% of overpriced junk from alot of manufactures the last years.
    Ich auch. I have a bag full.

    Wo leben Sie in Deutschland?

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    Little update- I tried that Sofirn light last night. Hole hell it's bright! I only used the low and medium modes, and blasted it on high just to freak every out for a second. I love how well it works but I think it's too heavy on my helmet for comfort. It gave me a bit of a headache after a while and there is no way to adjust the angle.

    I noticed last night that a lot of riders use a small light with an external battery pack on their helmets and now I see why. Both lights out out enough light to see the trail ahead, so I am going to have to put the heavier one on the bike and the external battery pack (MiNewt) on the helmet.

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    yes for helmet its to heavy, empty light is ~ 120 gramm.
    with a 21700 you are at 190 gramms.
    with a 18650 you are at 165 gramms.

    i am only use ultralight helmetlights.

    a Zebralight H600 is with an 18650 battery at ~90 gramms.

    lights with external batterys are pointless.
    most of them are technicly junk an are at ~ 60 gramms or more.

    the other problems:
    what to do with wires and what to to with the battery pack......

    a cheap product for helmet have Sofirn to like the pro companies design helmet lights with the SP40.
    ist no so powerfull and more heavy then a Zebralight but cost only 20$.

    the SP40 with an 18650 battery put in will be at ~ 100 gramms.

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    A small light w/ small external battery pack can actually be better on the helmet and balance weight better w/ the pack mounted in the back of the helmet and the light in the front of course.

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    I love my Nitefighter BT21 with my 2-cell Fenix Battery case on my helmet. The weight is pretty balanced and each light only has a short cable which I just wrap through my helmet vents. Here are the closest pics I could find to show it:





    Somewhere I had pics showing the battery pack mounted to the helmet, but I can't find them now. The pack is velcro'd to the back of the helmet and then I use a thick 1" wide velcro strap around the battery pack and through the last vent to cinch it down tight.

    -Garry
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2020 cheap lights thread-25876481818_a7a3abfb3f_o_d.jpg  

    2020 cheap lights thread-38849065475_c74eb9a6bb_k_d.jpg  

    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  45. #45
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    ^^^ mb323323 speaks the truth

    2020 cheap lights thread-amoeba-helmet.jpg

    *****

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    I love my Nitefighter BT21 with my 2-cell Fenix Battery case on my helmet. The weight is pretty balanced
    you will have ~200 gramms ore more and 200 gramms on your head are 200 gramm on your head.
    and balance something out is balancing somethink out.

    i have try a DIY light out what ends in ~ 115 gramm for a 2x18650 battery pack and the light is 50 gramms.
    this 165 gramms setup is still to heavy for me on helmet.
    my 1000 lumen 4 Hour runtimes setup is nice but with 165gramms to heavy for me.


    my zebra only weighs 90 gramms, thats the only thing what my head is able to carry any gramm more will break my neck.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2020 cheap lights thread-img_20191023_193721.jpg  

    2020 cheap lights thread-img_20191023_193707.jpg  


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    Can you suggest something really affordable to use on my helmet along with the mount? Maybe something from China? It will be used along with the PR1200.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    Little update- I tried that Sofirn light last night. Hole hell it's bright! I only used the low and medium modes, and blasted it on high just to freak every out for a second. I love how well it works but I think it's too heavy on my helmet for comfort. It gave me a bit of a headache after a while and there is no way to adjust the angle.

    I noticed last night that a lot of riders use a small light with an external battery pack on their helmets and now I see why. Both lights out out enough light to see the trail ahead, so I am going to have to put the heavier one on the bike and the external battery pack (MiNewt) on the helmet.
    What's your set for the Sofirn?

  49. #49
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    My old neck gets tired with nothing on the helmet so I won't carry a battery on it. I also won't use a self contained light because the lightest are still 3 ounces and don't put out much light for long. A 2 or 4 cell pack in a jersey or jacket pocket is my favorite power source for a helmet light. I do get that some have an issue with a cable, but it has never bothered me.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandro87 View Post
    So you think the ravemen pr1200 for example is overpriced and shitty?
    it looks like the typical technically lowest grade aliexpress XP-G and XM-L LED stuff on the first look that is sold for ~20€.
    https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3282237...6b2d67deTD2MTV

    The only differenz ist that one spot lens is removed and a Street style lens is put in.
    you can see that as a good or bad.

    i for myself use specialized lights for what i need them.

    for work commute i use a light with a 100% beam design for street use.

    for woods or trails i use a light that have a beam shape specialized for that, and what clear my wishes in beamprofile, lightquality, lightcolor temperatur, tint shifts or high CRI lightning, light amount or energy consumption.

    on questions like is this product good or not....what will you get as anwer?

    another clear answer.
    technically the raveman is on the level from the year ~2013 and in the last years alot of nice upgrades on the LED market happend in all aspects from alot LED companys.

    only on thing i can answer you clear, if you dont know a company, like raveman i never read bevor some weeks.
    if a light is equiped with XP-G or XM-L LEDs that shows you always clear that you get a technically very very outdatet product.

    if you are looking for solid lights in the lower prize range.

    for a cheap Street/Road light take a look on the lumintop B01.~30$
    for trail/woods take a look at the sofirn SD05.~20$

  51. #51
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    I don't think the one you linked on AliExpress has anything to do with the ravemen, those products are full of fake specs and usually don't deliver over 450 lumens.

    Who says the lumitop b01 is actually 850 lumens? And the beam doesn't look so wide

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by lostplaces View Post
    it looks like the typical technically lowest grade aliexpress XP-G and XM-L LED stuff on the first look that is sold for ~20€.
    https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3282237...6b2d67deTD2MTV

    The only differenz ist that one spot lens is removed and a Street style lens is put in.
    "Typically technically lowest grade" explains the difference between a Ravemen product and that light you linked. Your cheap Chinese light comes with the poorest bin emitters which probably are clones rather than real Cree products. I'm also sure the rest of the components used to assemble this light are of the lowest grade. The 6000 lumen rating on your light looks like 300-400 lumens at best to me (in their provided video) where as my PR900 and LR800 Ravemen lights both calculate out to just under 900 lumens from my LUX readings. Poor example to prove your point!


    if you are looking for solid lights in the lower prize range.

    for a cheap Street/Road light take a look on the lumintop B01.~30$
    for trail/woods take a look at the sofirn SD05.~20$
    At least both these look to be good quality. They still are flashlights and have flashlight characteristics that aren't necessarily desireable when used as a bike light.

    2020 cheap lights thread-screenshot_2019-10-23-lumintop-b01-850-lumens-21700-bicycle-headlamp.jpg

    Looking at the runtimes for the 850 lumen turbo mode and the 450 lumen hi mode I notice their both about the same. Looks like most of the usable time in the turbo mode the light is making power outputs more like the 450 lumen hi mode. From my experience with the Sofirn SP40 it's quite probable it would be able to maintain more output with air flow but my guess is it will degrade much faster than a slightly more powerful Ravemen PR900 light. Runtime in highest setting on the PR900 are equal to the 450 lumen hi mode of the B01 but the PR900 has double the battery capacity so both pretty close in efficient use of battery current. Bangood price for the B01 was listed at 37.90 with no battery included and ebay had the PR900 for 56.21 today so even with the extra cost of 2 18650 batteries or a high capacity 21700 battery (to make runtimes equal) the B01 will be less money but for a slightly less powerful, thermally unstable light (in turbo mode) with less features (PR900 also has wired remote and OLED battery capacity display). Think I'd pony up a few more bucks and go with the Ravemen

    SD05 definitely has some nice features compared to your typical Lumina/Urban but so does the Ravemen PR series lights. SD05's 2500 lumen turbo mode is on a 3 min. timer and even if it would be able to maintain that output all your going to get with a round beam on the bars is tons of reflective glare so not really usable for bicycle application. 1000 thermally regulated stable lumens on the other hand is pretty good considering how inexpensive the lights is but too heavy for helmet use and from the beam shots I've seen pretty spotty beam which wouldn't be my choice for the bars either. Ya the Ravemen PR900 still costs about twice as much but produces a wonderful beam pattern for off-road and would consider the extra cost money well spent if I were looking for a off-road bar mounted light. I wouldn't mind owning a SD05 but can't seem myself using it as a bike light when I have so many better choices (for my application anyway).
    Mole
    Last edited by MRMOLE; 10-24-2019 at 03:11 AM.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    .......Looking at the runtimes for the 850 lumen turbo mode and the 450 lumen hi mode I notice their both about the same. Looks like most of the usable time in the turbo mode the light is making power outputs more like the 450 lumen hi mode. .......
    Since those "runtimes" are using the NEMA FL1 standard it means that in high mode the light could be down to 50 lumen at the end of the runtime and still comply with the FL1 standard. Any light manufacturer using FL1's definition of runtime can post numbers that sound great, but are truly useless for bike use.

    IMO, if a light is rated at 850 lumen the runtime should be determined by how long it takes before it hits ~600 lumen or ~25% drop.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post

    Looking at the runtimes for the 850 lumen turbo mode and the 450 lumen hi mode I notice their both about the same.
    Turbo have same like Turbo from the SD05 a 3 minutes timer!

    high ist 100% regulated and put out measured 490 Lumen what is for Streets more then enought.
    turbo have a measured 880 lumen output, but after 3 minutes it drops to 490 lumen.

    there are reviews and measurings in the net to find.

    https://www.ixbt.com/live/uploads/im...5cfc511463.jpg

    one of the biggest difference on the quality side of products is the Brigthness regulation.

    lower quality lights become dimmer over time.
    good products have a 100% brightness output over time.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by lostplaces View Post
    Turbo have same like Turbo from the SD05 a 3 minutes timer!......turbo have a measured 880 lumen output, but after 3 minutes it drops to 490 lumen.......
    In their specifications they show 850 lumen with 2 hours and 20 minutes runtime. Why do they lie about that? Just another false specification designed to lure an unknowing buyer to their product.

    They try to obfuscate the runtime claim in the fine print with the statement "The run time on turbo is accumulated due to the intelligent temperature control".
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  56. #56
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    I still don't get it how they can declare +2h of 850 lumens when it's 3 minutes?

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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    ebay dag the PR900 for 56.21 today so
    too bad on amazon.it it's €80 for both the PR900 and PR1200.

  58. #58
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    Guys why I can't find a set of light+mount or simply the mount on ebay/aliexpress/bangood for a bike helmet for a flashlight? The mount with straps and and holder that you can adjust the angle. You would expect to find unlimited sellers for $1 for these kind of things but I can't find any!
    Even on Amazon (Italy) I can't find a set.

    Something like this https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/01...g?v=1504816354

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandro87 View Post
    I still don't get it how they can declare +2h of 850 lumens when it's 3 minutes?
    Because it is better to lie about the product to gain sales than to be truthful and lose sales to another seller that lies. Buyers should reject these crap sellers, but too many choose not to research and understand what they are really getting.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    In their specifications they show 850 lumen with 2 hours and 20 minutes runtime. Why do they lie about that?
    they give ANSI-FL1 spec, that the light runs in turbo mode what starts with 850 lumen runs ~ 2 hours 20 minutes with a 2600mah battery.
    and that 100% agree with ANSI-FL1.
    ANSI FL1 Standard - LED-Resource

    the only thing , i wish from alot companys cleaner ANSI tables with addet runtimegraphs like fenix for example do it for all modes, to see better how the regulation works and what you really get in output over time.
    https://www.fenixlighting.com/wp-con...ifications.jpg

    the secound point,
    coz they will make a budget light they anoucend that they will limit the turbo with a Timer to 3 minutes coz XP-L LEDs will need over 10 Watt power with any driver typ what will result in a runtime under 1 Hour in constant regulated 850 lumen with a 3000mah battery!!!

    in that chase people will cry about the short runtime.

    so they try to figure out to bringt a good light amount on the street and good runtimes.
    they design for the light on the other side a high quality buck driver with a low amount of energy losses and great regulation.

    The Turbo can be used as a short booster.

    that you get for 30$, with code i have seen it for 25$.
    but technicly for the prize its a great design.

    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    "Typically technically lowest grade" explains the difference between a Ravemen product and that light you linked. Your cheap Chinese light comes with the poorest bin emitters .....


    then lets make a backstep for some years.
    ~2008 Cree becomes the top dealer for bike/flashlights.

    ~in the year 2010 the XP-G2 was released ands the state of the art tech, all flashlight or bikelight producer what give anythink on there name use it.
    also unknown companys like Magicshine become with the MJ-872 hipster.

    ~2012 was the time that all company switch to the tech improved XM-L/XM-L2 LEDs, again all company start to use it.

    ~2014 the next generation comes out XP-L/XP-L2, smaller package improvments in effizenz , lightquality and output + the option on domless versions.
    tonns of ways to make great better lights.

    again all conpany upgrade there products........ohhh wait whats happening now?

    on the bike market only Exposure goes with the tech LED improvments and give it to consumers.

    ~ 2016 the next very big step in LED tech Cree have done with the XHP series.

    and noe look on the bike market?
    nothing!!!!!!!

    to equip a light wie LED junk from the year 2010 like for example your Ravemen PR800 is done shows more then clear that they will sell you cheapest tech outdatet stuff.

    im am playing now ~ 15 years with LEDs and have measured alot of them, and still have ~ 70 different types at home.
    and thats why i still wonder that people waste money on lights that are equip with totally outdatet LED tech from 10 Years ago or how you call it poorest emitters.

    in the year 2019/2020 to waste more then 10-20$ for lights that equiped with XP-G or XM-L junk is money throw in the garbage.

    now some clear tech abilitys from your light equiped with the 10 year old LEDs.

    PR800= 2x XP-G2 powerd with a 3000mah battery.
    this two LEDs will need ~ 12 Watt power or more to produce the promised 800 Lumens what will result in constant regulated output with <50 minutes of runtime.

    i own all of them:
    XP-G2, XP-G3, or the last try from Cree XP-G HE series and know 100% what this suff can or not can do.

    that tech outdated stuff you get on aliexpress for 20$.


    you can see very easy without more detailed measurments on the used LED tech what you are buy.
    on that way its very easy to figure out , what can be overprices tech junk or a good falue product.

    Quote Originally Posted by sandro87 View Post
    I don't think the one you linked on AliExpress has anything to do with the ravemen, those products are full of fake specs and usually don't deliver over 450 lumens.
    all importend specs are:
    2x XM-L/XM-L2 light with 2x2600mah= 5200mah battery= 20$ junk.
    that light will exacly that deliver what this low tech from the year 2012 can do.

    i remenber to orderd one like this ali 2 years ago, and it runs at not regulated ~800 lumen with horrible low runtime......

    Raveman PR800= lower tech then the aliexpress.

    like i sayed the only difference ist that one lens is changed to a ripple one.
    thats is worth pay 40$ more?

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by lostplaces View Post
    they give ANSI-FL1 spec, that the light runs in turbo mode what starts with 850 lumen runs ~ 2 hours 20 minutes with a 2600mah battery.
    and that 100% agree with ANSI-FL1........
    That's exactly why I contend that the FL1 standard is worthless for comparing usefulness of a light for cycling. The FL1 standard measures runtime until the light output is 10% of the rated output. 10% of the rated output for most of these cheapie Chinese lights is totally useless for cycling.

    Sadly some better manufacturers have fallen into using FL1 too. They know that unknowing buyers will overlook their product if they spec true usable runtime and outputs because the performance numbers are lower yet the price is higher.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by lostplaces View Post
    they give ANSI-FL1 spec, that the light runs in turbo mode what starts with 850 lumen runs ~ 2 hours 20 minutes with a 2600mah battery.
    and that 100% agree with ANSI-FL1.
    ANSI FL1 Standard - LED-Resource

    the only thing , i wish from alot companys cleaner ANSI tables with addet runtimegraphs like fenix for example do it for all modes, to see better how the regulation works and what you really get in output over time.
    https://www.fenixlighting.com/wp-con...ifications.jpg

    the secound point,
    coz they will make a budget light they anoucend that they will limit the turbo with a Timer to 3 minutes coz XP-L LEDs will need over 10 Watt power with any driver typ what will result in a runtime under 1 Hour in constant regulated 850 lumen with a 3000mah battery!!!

    in that chase people will cry about the short runtime.

    so they try to figure out to bringt a good light amount on the street and good runtimes.
    they design for the light on the other side a high quality buck driver with a low amount of energy losses and great regulation.

    The Turbo can be used as a short booster.

    that you get for 30$, with code i have seen it for 25$.
    but technicly for the prize its a great design.





    then lets make a backstep for some years.
    ~2008 Cree becomes the top dealer for bike/flashlights.

    ~in the year 2010 the XP-G2 was released ands the state of the art tech, all flashlight or bikelight producer what give anythink on there name use it.
    also unknown companys like Magicshine become with the MJ-872 hipster.

    ~2012 was the time that all company switch to the tech improved XM-L/XM-L2 LEDs, again all company start to use it.

    ~2014 the next generation comes out XP-L/XP-L2, smaller package improvments in effizenz , lightquality and output + the option on domless versions.
    tonns of ways to make great better lights.

    again all conpany upgrade there products........ohhh wait whats happening now?

    on the bike market only Exposure goes with the tech LED improvments and give it to consumers.

    ~ 2016 the next very big step in LED tech Cree have done with the XHP series.

    and noe look on the bike market?
    nothing!!!!!!!

    to equip a light wie LED junk from the year 2010 like for example your Ravemen PR800 is done shows more then clear that they will sell you cheapest tech outdatet stuff.

    im am playing now ~ 15 years with LEDs and have measured alot of them, and still have ~ 70 different types at home.
    and thats why i still wonder that people waste money on lights that are equip with totally outdatet LED tech from 10 Years ago or how you call it poorest emitters.

    in the year 2019/2020 to waste more then 10-20$ for lights that equiped with XP-G or XM-L junk is money throw in the garbage.

    now some clear tech abilitys from your light equiped with the 10 year old LEDs.

    PR800= 2x XP-G2 powerd with a 3000mah battery.
    this two LEDs will need ~ 12 Watt power or more to produce the promised 800 Lumens what will result in constant regulated output with <50 minutes of runtime.

    i own all of them:
    XP-G2, XP-G3, or the last try from Cree XP-G HE series and know 100% what this suff can or not can do.

    that tech outdated stuff you get on aliexpress for 20$.


    you can see very easy without more detailed measurments on the used LED tech what you are buy.
    on that way its very easy to figure out , what can be overprices tech junk or a good falue product.



    all importend specs are:
    2x XM-L/XM-L2 light with 2x2600mah= 5200mah battery= 20$ junk.
    that light will exacly that deliver what this low tech from the year 2012 can do.

    i remenber to orderd one like this ali 2 years ago, and it runs at not regulated ~800 lumen with horrible low runtime......

    Raveman PR800= lower tech then the aliexpress.

    like i sayed the only difference ist that one lens is changed to a ripple one.
    thats is worth pay 40$ more?
    OK let's assume you're right for the specifications and that Ravemen is selling old stuff.
    Problem is that you're not providing a real alternative to the Ravemen PR800 for $40 less that has
    - two lenses with cutoff beam and mtb biking, ACTUALLY usable for cycling
    - battery that lasts at full lumens for hours
    - all in one package without carrying multiple items

    If you post it i'll buy it today.

  63. #63
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    Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    "Typically technically lowest grade" explains the difference between a Ravemen product and that light you linked. Your cheap Chinese light comes with the poorest bin emitters .
    My bad on my choice of words here. I should not have included the term technically (which changes the meaning). "Typically lowest grade" is a more accurate meaning to what I was trying to convey.




    Quote Originally Posted by lostplaces View Post
    they give ANSI-FL1
    then lets make a backstep for some years.
    ~2008 Cree becomes the top dealer for bike/flashlights.

    ~in the year 2010 the XP-G2 was released ands the state of the art tech, all flashlight or bikelight producer what give anythink on there name use it.
    also unknown companys like Magicshine become with the MJ-872 hipster.

    ~2012 was the time that all company switch to the tech improved XM-L/XM-L2 LEDs, again all company start to use it.

    ~2014 the next generation comes out XP-L/XP-L2, smaller package improvments in effizenz , lightquality and output + the option on domless versions.
    tonns of ways to make great better lights.

    again all conpany upgrade there products........ohhh wait whats happening now?

    on the bike market only Exposure goes with the tech LED improvments and give it to consumers.

    ~ 2016 the next very big step in LED tech Cree have done with the XHP series.

    and noe look on the bike market?
    nothing!!!!!!!

    to equip a light wie LED junk from the year 2010 like for example your Ravemen PR800 is done shows more then clear that they will sell you cheapest tech outdatet stuff.

    im am playing now ~ 15 years with LEDs and have measured alot of them, and still have ~ 70 different types at home.
    and thats why i still wonder that people waste money on lights that are equip with totally outdatet LED tech from 10 Years ago or how you call it poorest emitters.

    in the year 2019/2020 to waste more then 10-20$ for lights that equiped with XP-G or XM-L junk is money throw in the garbage.
    Appreciate your review of recent emitter evolution. A good bike light is far more than just what emitter it is equipped with though so definitely don't agree that all XP-G and XM-L equipped light are junk. I agree it would be nice to see XHP technology become more commonly used in bike lights but as of now only a few successful ones are available. Flashlights are not bikelights and if they were the best solution we'd all be using them on this forum.





    now some clear tech abilitys from your light equiped with the 10 year old LEDs.

    PR800= 2x XP-G2 powerd with a 3000mah battery.
    this two LEDs will need ~ 12 Watt power or more to produce the promised 800 Lumens what will result in constant regulated output with <50 minutes of runtime.

    i own all of them:
    XP-G2, XP-G3, or the last try from Cree XP-G HE series and know 100% what this suff can or not can do.

    that tech outdated stuff you get on aliexpress for 20$.


    you can see very easy without more detailed measurments on the used LED tech what you are buy.
    on that way its very easy to figure out , what can be overprices tech junk or a good falue product.


    all importend specs are:
    2x XM-L/XM-L2 light with 2x2600mah= 5200mah battery= 20$ junk.
    that light will exacly that deliver what this low tech from the year 2012 can do.

    i remenber to orderd one like this ali 2 years ago, and it runs at not regulated ~800 lumen with horrible low runtime......

    Raveman PR800= lower tech then the aliexpress.

    like i sayed the only difference ist that one lens is changed to a ripple one.
    thats is worth pay 40$ more?
    Unfortunately your lack of knowledge about Ravemen lights has led you to post incorrect information and draw incorrect conclusions. PR900 comes with 2 2600mAh batteries not a single 3000mAh. Additional battery capacity allows it to have a fairly stable output of just under 900 lumens till the tail end of its runtime. Doubt your Aliexpress light with its poor quality (but newer tech) emitters and parts will come close to that. Comparing only a individual component in no way guarantees how the light will work as a whole. I found this output chart (while looking for my PR900 chart which unfortunately I didn't find) I made for my Ravemen LR800 transposed over a Lumina 850 micro chart that's a good example of how different a light can perform even with the same emitters of similar quality.

    Raemen LR800 Black/Hi, Red/Med. mode
    2020 cheap lights thread-ravemen-lr800p.jpg

    That only compares output consistency and runtimes. Other factors (beam quality, thermal efficiency, UI, mounts, reliability) are more likely to be much poorer on your Aliexpress light (which I'm sure you know) than the PR900. Testing emitters only makes you qualified to comment (intelligently) on emitter performance. I own and have tested this light (PR900) and for its claimed output and cost found it to be a great performer and value. You should probably take a look at one before you call it junk. LOL
    Mole

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandro87 View Post
    Guys why I can't find a set of light+mount or simply the mount on ebay/aliexpress/bangood for a bike helmet for a flashlight? The mount with straps and and holder that you can adjust the angle. You would expect to find unlimited sellers for $1 for these kind of things but I can't find any!
    Even on Amazon (Italy) I can't find a set.

    Something like this https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/01...g?v=1504816354
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3286...19c94c4dDIDvXf https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3287...19c94c4dDIDvXf
    Bucksaw, Farley, and a Sturgis....

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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Appreciate your review of recent emitter evolution. A good bike light is far more than just what emitter it is equipped with though so definitely don't agree that all XP-G and XM-L equipped light are junk.
    Its the most importand part same like in a flat TV the used Panel.
    If you go into a shop you will pay 500-1000$ for a flat TV with a build in 10 Years old panel?
    low resolution outwashed, ugly colors, ultra low contrast........

    no you will get state of the art tech for your money.

    the same part takes the used LED in a light.

    what type of light they finally make with that is another question.


    if people not stop waste money for more the overpriced cost, the more on the unserious side placed Companys will not stop sell this junk.


    the importand point you can see easy on that way what you really get for your money.



    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Unfortunately your lack of knowledge about Ravemen lights has led you to post incorrect information and draw incorrect conclusions. PR900 comes with 2 2600mAh batteries not a single 3000mAh.
    Its not a lack from whatever you write here always about different Ravemans with different batterys an LEDs all the time.

    First PR800
    them PR900 PR1200

    and now LR800

    stay on one of them and not mix them together.





    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    I made for my Ravemen LR800 transposed over a Lumina 850 micro chart that's a good example of how different a light can perform even with the same emitters of similar quality.

    Raemen LR800 Black/Hi, Red/Med. mode


    That only compares output consistency and runtimes.
    Ok now the LR800.
    thats this one right?
    https://www.merlincycles.com/ravemen...ht-155959.html

    specs:
    1x XP-G2 with a 2200mah battery.

    next basic info.
    XP-G2 is a maximum 1500ma current speced LED!!!
    so to reach more then ~400 Lumens it need to heavy overcurrent it what result in lowering the lumen per watt effizenz!!!!!

    here you see what a XP-G2 need on current for how much real output what is consistent with my measurments to without the losses from an optic.
    https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...l#post12506589



    to get from a XP-G2 LED 1000 Lumens it need ~ 5 Amperes of current pump into it.
    that says a 2200mah battery will be sucked down in <20 minutes!!!

    that means heavy overcurrent the LED and you need to get away the over 20 Watt of heat generation..........what is near impossible some of my XP-G2 what i have tryed alot years ago burned down.

    an XM-L need for the same performance~ 3,5 Amps.
    an XHP will need a draw from the same battery at ~1,6 Amps to reach this output.

    so that what you post is your measurment?
    its lightyears away from that was is possible with an XP-G2 and hits the abilitys what XHP able to do.

    its nice that your LR800 equiped with an XP-G2 reaches 3 times higher output with ~1,5 Amps current then this LED is able to to.

    now back reality:

    an XP-G2 driven by 1,5 Amps will deliver ~ 350-400 lumen and a 2200mah battery will last for a little bit over 1 Hour.
    That is the LR800.

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by lostplaces View Post

    Ok now the LR800.
    thats this one right?
    https://www.greenparkbikestation.inf...avemen-lr-800/

    specs:
    1x XP-G2 with a 2200mah battery.

    next basic info.
    XP-G2 is a 1500ma current speced LED so to reach more then ~400 Lumens it need to heavy overcurrent it what result in lowering the lumen per watt effizenz!!!!!

    here you see what a XP-G2 need on current for how much real output what is consistent with my measurments to without the losses from an optic.
    https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...l#post12506589



    to get from a XP-G2 LED 1000 Lumens it need ~ 5 Amperes of current pump into it.
    that says a 2200mah battery will be sucked down in 20 minutes!!!

    that means heavy overcurrent the LED and you need to get away the over 20 Watt of heat generation..........

    an XM-L need for the same performance~ 3,5 Amps.
    an XHP will need a draw from the same battery at ~1,6 Amps to reach this output.

    so that what you post is your measurment?
    its lightyears away from that was is possible with an XP-G2 and hits the abilitys what XHP able to do.
    I think there is some kind of mix up here. The LR-800 is actually called the LR-800P. I think this is the one that MRM has. Comes with an XM-L2 emitter and 2600mAh battery. The website that you linked to...I don't know where they got that information. The one I linked to is the actual Raveman website, not a vendor site. You would be right though, no XPG2 is going to be able to create 800 lumen without burning up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    I think there is some kind of mix up here. The LR-800 is actually called the LR-800P. I
    i see this "company?" is confusing.

    norhing have changed:
    XP-G2= 2010 tech
    XM-L= 2012 tech

    to calc is no problem all of them.

    now:
    1x XM-L2 and 2600mag battery.

    to get out of the front real 800 lumen"=-10% losses from optic"
    will need 3 Amps pump into a XM-L2.

    in a constant brithness regulation it will result in ~ 45 minutes of runtime with a 2600mah battery.


    that they write somethink about 1,2 Hours runtime it is clearly to see that this light will drop in brightness over time.

    if this light will be equiped with XP-L, what was the next generation LED in the year 2014 from CREE, the result will be 10-15% higher.

    if this light will be equiped with XHP LED from 2016 tech the result will be 800 Lumen constant output for 2 Hours.

    your SST-40 Based light will be placed between XP-L and XHP tech.

    you see it is very easy to roughly classify the product place and ~ value.

    next question or better how you clearly can see identify aliexpress stuff,
    why build in 2200mah or 2600mah junk if 3000-3500mah battery state of the art .

    the first downside.
    they glue them in and next they use lowest grade on batterys on the market, quality companys use always good high capacity batterys in there products.

    and if i read on product XP-G or XM-L class my first mind is always, ohhhhh my god again Aliexpress junk.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by lostplaces View Post
    i see this "company?" is confusing.

    to calc is no problem all of them.

    now:
    1x XM-L2 and 2600mag battery.

    to get out of the front real 800 lumen"=-10% losses from optic"
    will need 3 Amps pump into a XM-L2.

    in a constant brithness regulation it will result in ~ 45 minutes of runtime with a 2600mah battery.


    that they write somethink about 1,2 Hours runtime it is clearly to see that this light will drop in brightness over time.

    if this light will be equiped with XP-L, what was the next generation LED in the year 2014 from CREE, the result will be 10-15% higher.

    if this light will be equiped with XHP LED from 2016 tech the result will be 800 Lumen constant output for 2 Hours.

    next question or better how you clearly can see identify aliexpress stuff,
    why build in 2200mah or 2600mah junk if 3000-3500mah battery state of the art .

    the first downside.
    they glue them in and next they use lowest grade on batterys on the market, quality companys use always good high capacity batterys in there products.
    I won't bother to respond to your other post since the information on that site was incorrect other than to say I own a PR900 and a LR800 and have access to a PR1200 that I bought for my Stepfather a couple of Christmas's ago (so am familiar with all those lights firsthand).

    As far as this post I basically agree with most of what you said except a couple of points. 1) Last I looked at the output capabilities of XM-L emitters was a couple of yrs. ago and way back then 3A would net almost 1100 lumens so even with the 10% loss of efficiency from optic losses I don't get where you got your figures. Unless I'm wrong here this would also affect your consumption figures too. 2) Back to your Junk comments. Of course you are entitled to your opinion that you base on specification and data sheets. I enjoy that stuff too but in the end how the light performs on the bike is what really counts which is how I ultimately choose to judge a light.
    Mole

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    Thank you!!!
    I'm missing the flashlight now any advice? I need something very light just to light a bit where I'm looking at. I think 400 lumens is enough being a spotlight.
    USB rechargeable with 2 hours of usage should be fine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sandro87 View Post
    Thank you!!!
    I'm missing the flashlight now any advice? I need something very light just to light a bit where I'm looking at. I think 400 lumens is enough being a spotlight.
    USB rechargeable with 2 hours of usage should be fine.
    Based on the reviews here I'm going with Sofirn SD05. But it's not a USB light.
    Bucksaw, Farley, and a Sturgis....

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    Quote Originally Posted by bcriverjunky View Post
    Based on the reviews here I'm going with Sofirn SD05. But it's not a USB light.
    Maybe it's also too heavy for an helmet light. I was thinking Lumintop AA 2.0...?

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandro87 View Post
    Maybe it's also too heavy for an helmet light.
    SD05 used with a 18650 battery will be ~ 160 gramms for me that is to much on helmet.

    but if i read that people use lights + battery packs mounted on helmet with 200-400 gramms setups and thats no prob form them..

    for the handlebar ist great, fix it tight enought and have a full night fun.
    i used it last night most time the ~ 300 lumen mode and sometimes switch to ~1000 Lumen up.

    i came home after 2 Hours in use and if i put the 21700 battery into the charger he says the battery was near full.

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    I think too many people see the ANSI/FL1 standard on packaging or it get thrown around in discussion and interpret it completely wrong.

    Sure there is a standard and sure it is good that many follow the standard but the stand does allow many to post incorrect information simply because of how the standard is interpreted.

    Knowing the limitations of a standard is just as important as knowing what the standard means, and the biggest limitation of the FL1 Standard is the runtime rating.

    Read the specs for some of these lights and you will see 850 lumens for 2 hours and blah minutes and then you get someone to defend that saying they followed the standard. But if you read the actual standard it says:

    “Runtime - Tested with fresh batteries from 30 seconds after the light is turned on until the light output reaches 10% of the initial measurement. This is the total time of useable light before most consumers will change the batteries”

    The test is done in an integrating sphere just like the lumen test with light output measured every 15 minutes.

    Manufacturers have taken that and spun it to say max output and runtime in a manner than too many consumers think that is the output heir get for the duration. and this leads to further confusion because not many light manufactures come directly out and say if their light output is regulated or not. Many are not.

    Many do post runtime graphs for their products but most of the ones I have come across are for regulated lights or from “large” manufacturers.

    Other important aspects to a light are beam quality, thermal efficiency, UI, mounts, reliability etc (as were pointed out by MrMole posts #63 above).

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by cue003 View Post
    I think too many people see the ANSI/FL1 standard on packaging or it get thrown around in discussion and interpret it completely wrong.
    befor ANSI FL1 and the lack of knowlege, no option to check statts if they true or not.
    companys lie to anyone, that why it was released.

    but the downside is that now a full runtimegraph is needet.

    so its possible if a company is very unserious, to make a light that starts at lets say 800 lumen:
    after 30 secound it still have 800 lumens, after that it drops to lets say 100 Lumen and runs for 6 Hours.

    ANSI FL1 says to that its a 800 Lumen 6 Hours runtime light.
    coz 100 Lumens over 10% of the start brightness.

    A Serious Company will inform about that, and why they do that.
    Underious will you not give a feetback.

    At times that anyone can make a light sphere for 20$ and check peoducts and figure out lying unserious companys that not more a problem.

    serious light building companys is like i say very easy to indentify coz they will not sell you tech outdated junk.

    they sell you actuall tech for serious prizes and some off them waste additional time in the elektronic driver design to give you the best amount of light vs runtime or tonns of programming options and other really usefull things.

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    BL70 arrived yesterday. Woohoo.

    It's heavy. Kinda big too. It's NOT for the helmet. It seems well made but the wires are smaller than the XP3 and of course the mount is the basic cheap rubber O ring. Inside, who knows.

    All I was able to do was test on the wall last night and outside in the yard. It of course doesn't have programming like the XP3 but it's only 38 bucks, lighthead only. The one I got has an op reflector. The beam pattern has a noticeable ring typical of other designs like this. Since I can't program it, I just tested it on high against the XP3. The XP3 is set at 90% b'c it gets too hot otherwise even when I'm riding. It just doesn't get cold enough here I think. It's not brighter then the XP3 in my opinion. I have to use it on the trail to really assess that tho. But based on my backyard findings, looks a touch less bright than the XP3. Still, for 38 bucks it's bright and if you buy the Panasonic KD battery, it's less than 80 total and a good deal. Durability who knows at this point.

    I'll let you know how it matches up on the trail against the XP3 next week. I can't get out for a few days due to the smoke and my elect is scheduled to be off today thru Monday so I actually need it on the low setting for a few days. And BTW, the low setting is so low it's not useful on the trail from what I can tell. But it'll work great the next few days in the house!

    MB

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    Quote Originally Posted by lostplaces View Post
    ......serious light building companys is like i say very easy to indentify coz they will not sell you tech outdated junk......
    A serious light building company will use the components that produce the desired/required characteristics regardless of "outdated" or not. The latest in tech does necessarily equate to better in all aspects.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

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    Is this worth looking at for $37?(sierra coupons) http://sierra.com/lezyne-macro-drive...~bike-light%2F

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smokee300 View Post
    Is this worth looking at for $37?(sierra coupons) http://sierra.com/lezyne-macro-drive...~bike-light%2F
    Here's a link to a review from road.cc

    https://road.cc/content/review/23621...o-drive-1100xl

    Was looking at the Sierra site you linked and noticed it said 2.5 hrs. runtime in high but I believe that to be a 650 lumen setting. The 1100 lumen setting showed 80 min. a couple of other places I looked. I have no first hand experience with this light but hope this helps.
    Mole

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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Here's a link to a review from road.cc

    https://road.cc/content/review/23621...o-drive-1100xl

    Was looking at the Sierra site you linked and noticed it said 2.5 hrs. runtime in high but I believe that to be a 650 lumen setting. The 1100 lumen setting showed 80 min. a couple of other places I looked. I have no first hand experience with this light but hope this helps.
    Mole
    Thanks, I will check that review, i should have mentioned that I'd be pairing this with a BL40 that I already have.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Here's a link to a review from road.cc
    to our beam test it's not as bright as other lights with the same number of lumens. Compared with the

    it´is more then vissible that is much dimmer then the same other 5 stars.

    and thats not a review copy paste anythink and give all this convoy S2 tech based 10€ lights 5 stars????
    they dont write anythink they measrured runtimes or whatever on any way.

    here is a review.
    https://www.gearlimits.com/gear-revi...-xl-headlight/

    has a total burn time of 1 hour and 20 minutes when used at full powe

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by lostplaces View Post
    it´is more then vissible that is ~ 3 times dimmer then the same other 5 stars.
    I did not claim to know anything about this light or recommend it. Only provided a link to a review so member asking about it could more easily research it and make up their own mind.
    Mole

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    Quote Originally Posted by sandro87 View Post
    Can you suggest something really affordable to use on my helmet along with the mount? Maybe something from China? It will be used along with the PR1200.
    Well any two LED light from Kaidomain oder aliexpress, the original Yinding might also be a good reliable solution, if you can get yout hands on one. You just have to get a proper battery, in germany one shop is called enerprof. ships for sure to italy as well.


    Quote Originally Posted by sandro87 View Post
    [...]
    Anyone found any Chinese product that actually have a cut off and wide beam that competes with famous manufacturers?
    To design and produce a proper cut-off reflector with useful beam pattern (or a proper lens setup which does the same) is not a simple task, it takes time, effort and knowledge.
    Therefore the chinese copyist selling cheap stuff have not yet suceeded in that business. The Acebeam BK10 and the Lumintop B01 are a start, albeit the former imho has way too much light in front of the bike and the latter is a bit narrow as you stated.
    (There is a cheap chines copy of the Lupine SL, but the light distribution .... well let's say it has much... room for improvements)


    Totally agree with Vancbiker
    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    A serious light building company will use the components that produce the desired/required characteristics regardless of "outdated" or not. The latest in tech does necessarily equate to better in all aspects.
    btw: Lupine stated once the don't use the XHP leds in their lights because these LEDs have difficulties getting the heat away.

  83. #83
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    Xanes XL29

    Any thoughts on the Xanes XL29? Came across this light while lloking for a self contained unit.

    Saw mention of some other Xanes lights not being great quality. Wondering if anyone has gotten their hands on the XL29 model?
    https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32954312426.html
    You cannot go against nature, because when you do, its part of nature too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottoreni View Post
    Xanes XL29

    Any thoughts on the Xanes XL29? Came across this light while lloking for a self contained unit.

    Saw mention of some other Xanes lights not being great quality. Wondering if anyone has gotten their hands on the XL29 model?
    https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32954312426.html
    Not 100% sure but I had one similar sold under another brand from AliExpress and the light is pure crap, maximum 500 lumens if not 450.

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by biking_tg View Post

    btw: Lupine stated once the don't use the XHP leds in their lights because these LEDs have difficulties getting the heat away.
    Interesting information. That would definitely limit that emitters hi output potential for bicycle apploications. Thanks!
    Mole

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    Quote Originally Posted by biking_tg View Post
    ......btw: Lupine stated once the don't use the XHP leds in their lights because these LEDs have difficulties getting the heat away.
    I find that interesting too. The XHP is a nicely efficient emitter, but does not make much of a beam in small optics either. Too wide unless the optic or reflector is >30mm in size. I have not tested the XHP35 HI which should do better, but I would be surprised if it made a beam as nice as the XP-L HI with a 20mm optic. Of course the XP-L HI being ~4 years old means a light using it is junk .
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Interesting information. That would definitely limit that emitters hi output potential for bicycle apploications. Thanks!
    Mole
    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    I find that interesting too. The XHP is a nicely efficient emitter, but does not make much of a beam in small optics either. Too wide unless the optic or reflector is >30mm in size.[...]
    Here is that thread in the Lupine Forum (using google translate). The user "Wolf" is Lupine's founder and managing director/CEO
    Size limitation of the optics might be a reason as well why lupine hasn't switched yet to these emitters, as they always want to make the light heads as small as possible.

    Reason for Edit: Google translate link didn't work

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    Bucksaw, Farley, and a Sturgis....

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    Quote Originally Posted by biking_tg View Post
    btw: Lupine stated once the don't use the XHP leds in their lights because these LEDs have difficulties getting the heat away.

    I expect they are a little fussy now, they used to mount their LEDs direct to a normal circuit board, so they know quite a lot about overheating LEDs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bcriverjunky View Post
    Well according to Banggood's page on this light it's a 4.2v light and has a slightly different sized connector - so the answer is no. It's a pretty low grade budget light and those battery packs are pretty low grade too. I reviewed those packs branded as "RockBros" and while the cells used inside were decent, the craftsmanship inside was poor.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Well according to Banggood's page on this light it's a 4.2v light and has a slightly different sized connector - so the answer is no. It's a pretty low grade budget light and those battery packs are pretty low grade too. I reviewed those packs branded as "RockBros" and while the cells used inside were decent, the craftsmanship inside was poor.

    -Garry
    Thank you. Search goes on..
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    I find that interesting too. The XHP is a nicely efficient emitter, but does not make much of a beam in small optics either. Too wide unless the optic or reflector is >30mm in size. I have not tested the XHP35 HI which should do better, but I would be surprised if it made a beam as nice as the XP-L HI with a 20mm optic. Of course the XP-L HI being ~4 years old means a light using it is junk .
    An XP3 with 4C XPL-hi is my dream light. The XHP35 hi has a really nice beam but the efficiency really isn't a big enough step up for manufacturers to deal with its 12v rating. The rest of the XHP series has lousy color distribution and needs a big tint mixing TIR lens to look good.

    It takes a top bin XHP 70.2 to match to beat the efficiency of a triple XML2-U3. They are just so efficient at low current and the big die gets rid of heat so well, it seems most manufacturers don't see enough benefit to trying new stuff. Welight has posted on another forum that Cutter is expecting XML3 samples possibly this December, he also posted a picture and said Cree expects it to be more powerful than the SST-40. So next year everyone can drop the new XML into an existing light and be more powerful and cutting edge again without really doing anything.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    I have not tested the XHP35 HI which should do better, but I would be surprised if it made a beam as nice as the XP-L HI with a 20mm optic. Of course the XP-L HI being ~4 years old means a light using it is junk .
    XHP35 HI and XP-L HI are bouth great for heavy fucusing beams with lower color tint shifts then domed ones.
    i still have a bunch of ~ 20 XP-L Hi LED to put it into lights and like them.
    in 3c or 5c or 5D.

    the only downside from XP-L Hi ist they are ~ 50 Lower effizenz have."=50 more energie consumtion for same lightpower"

    XHP35 Hi downside ist you need spezial 12 V drivers and they are more expensive.

    the new white flat"black flat generation 4" ist for ultra heavy light focusing at moment the most importat LED if you like this types more.

    with 8 Amps driven it delivers ~ 1500 Lumen.

    in a 40mm optic it focus the beam near 3 times more then XHP 35 HI and XP-L Hi.
    i reach a little bit below 300.000 lux throw distance with it.
    the the XP-L Hi/XHP35 Hi only reach ~100.000 lux.
    for example a XM-L" what is found i alot cheap chines lights will reach onlx ~30.000 lux about here bulky dome.

    the effizenz is much lower then the others, thats the downside of the white flat.



    the cool light color ist white flat the warmer one is XP-L HI/XHP-35 HI focused.



    he put it befor a ~25mm TIR and reach 125.000 lux throw.
    Fireflies E01 Osram / SST40W Flashlight

    basic bike light for trails have ~ 5.000-10.000 lux throw for compare.
    thats why this LEDs types and abilitys are not an very importand part for bike lights.

    ~5mm sized LEDs set befor ~20mm optics"lens or reflector" give a good ratio of flood and throw for biking.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2020 cheap lights thread-img_20191020_114226.jpg  

    2020 cheap lights thread-p1150441.jpg  


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    Perfect option
    2020 cheap lights thread-nasjtw8fkug.jpg

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    I took the BL70 out a few nights ago. I didn't have my Ituo XP3 to do a side by side but I've ridden enough to know how it compares. Next week I'll try to do a side by side. The light worked fine. The mount as you know is not the best and it moved a bit in the rough stuff but overall was ok. Especially considering the $$. I personally don't think it's as bright as the XP3 on high. However, you can run this on high all night and as long as your moving it won't overheat. It barely got warm. Thinking it may not be right, I let it sit on high after the ride for 5 minutes to see if it would heat up and yes it did. Not as hot as the XP3 but def hot so it's working. Temp was in the mid 50's. I tested it next to my Lumina 950 boost. On boost w/ both batteries full charge the BL is brighter but not by a significant amount. I have to say I think the BL70 is around 1700-1800 lumens. Don't know if anyone has sphere tested it but I'd be interested to know. It seems like a good light as it's simple and that's probably better for this type of light. On, off, 3 settings that's it but not much to go wrong and totally useable on medium and high. Low is not useable except to fix a flat or in the house during a 4 day power outage!

    38 bucks plus whatever you pay for a battery for about 1800 lumens and a decent beam is hard to beat.

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    Did 3 nights of riding this week and decided I needed something to supplement my Petzl headlamp. I'm in for one of the SD05 light combo's off amazon. I'll report in with the results.

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    I like the light. Good brightness and pattern. Not crazy about the mount.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  98. #98
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    Which mount are you using? I'm still waiting on my backordered SD05 from Banggood (I'm in no rush).

    -Garry

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    The mount linked in post 3. I used amazon and paid more cause I was in a rush.


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    Wait, that can't be so! That mount in post #3 is the ultimate according to mr. lostplaces. With that mount and a flashlight every mountain bike rider will have the ultimate lighting system.

    I hope your trails don't have many low hanging branches.....
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  101. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post

    I hope your trails don't have many low hanging branches.....
    2020 cheap lights thread-003.jpg

    I rode this setup last night just to say I've done it. Joking aside, I was so paranoid I would look strait down every time I went under something. Flat, open, and almost nothing with any overhang made this possible but for normal trail riding no way would this work for me (too heavy also).



    Doublestuff: Here's a pic. of how I ended up setting up that mount on the bars with a SD05. Ditched the rubber ladder strap (wouldn't hold the light securely) and replaced it with a couple of silicon lighthead o-rings (upgraded bar mount too). Big improvement!
    Mole

    Name:  SD05 Bar Mounted.jpg
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    Hi,
    what would be the 2020 eqivalent of
    1. bars: bt40s (modded around 2000 lm) in the 20-50 Euro range w/o battery
    2. helmet: ituo wiz xp2 (1500lm) around 120 Euro incl. battery?

    Any suggestions are welcome (but no flashlights )

  103. #103
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    Doublestuff never commented whether or not he had it mounted on his helmet or his bars. I would only use that mount on the bars myself. I much rather situate a flashlight tight down into the vent grooves of my helmet (if I use a flashlight).

    -Garry

  104. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    I would only use that mount on the bars myself. I much rather situate a flashlight tight down into the vent grooves of my helmet (if I use a flashlight).

    -Garry
    I agree, even still being able to use a Gopro interface style mount there's plenty of room to move the light closer to the helmet. Not sure I'd be able to mount a flashlight aimed the way I like mounted to the vent grooves but this did allow me to test how the SD05's beam worked on the helmet (very good!) and gave my neck and upper back muscles a heck of a workout.
    Mole

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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Doublestuff never commented whether or not he had it mounted on his helmet or his bars. ...
    In post #96 he makes it sound like he ordered the flashlight and mount to replace a helmet light.

    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    I agree, even still being able to use a Gopro interface style mount there's plenty of room to move the light closer to the helmet.......
    Yeah that mount is not designed well for helmet use. In most instances GoPro mounting on a helmet puts the light near the crown of the helmet and relatively high, but that one looks like it raises the light ~.5" higher than necessary.

    Despite making all kinds of GoPro adapters for lights, I won't use the GoPro system for my helmet light. I prefer a lower, forward mounting to minimize any chance of snagging a branch. Years ago, I caught a branch with my old NR halogen light. Just about pulled me off the bike and my neck was sore for quite a while afterward. No desire to risk that again
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

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    Any Black Friday/Cyber Monday deals happening on lights?

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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    I would only use that mount on the bars myself. I much rather situate a flashlight tight down into the vent grooves of my helmet (if I use a flashlight).

    -Garry
    Hey Garry,
    I've been trying to mount the SD05 directly to my helmet but first thing that contacts the helmet on that light is the magnetic ring that switches the modes. Figured you may have been down this road before and may have a good idea what to use to elevate the torch a little so the ring has clearance and can be rotated to switch modes. Appreciate any input (for anyone)!
    Mole

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    I don't Mole, and I've never had a flashlight with a ring to control modes. I'm still waiting on my light. I've not used a flashlight often, but when I have it's either been a Convoy M1 or Convoy S2.

    -Garry

  109. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    I don't Mole, and I've never had a flashlight with a ring to control modes. I'm still waiting on my light. I've not used a flashlight often, but when I have it's either been a Convoy M1 or Convoy S2.

    -Garry
    Thanks anyway! Lowering the light would definitely make it less of "a pain in the neck". I liked how the light worked (output and beam pattern wise) so worth a little effort trying to make it more comfy + this may also be a good option for heavier self-contained bike lights. Hope you get your light soon.
    Mole

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    Is there any new Chinese alternative for a lupine wilma like the mj872 or Nitefighter bt40s available? I havn't found anything with TIR optics...
    Thanks

  111. #111
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    Well Banggood finally cancelled and refunded me for my Sofirn SP40 headlamp (4000k) order, but at the same time shipped out my Sofirn SD05.

    I don't think I'm going to reorder the SP40 elsewhere as now I have preordered the new Astrolux HL01 headlamp through BLF's groupbuy (thanks for lostplaces tipping us off to that groupbuy). Group Buy price was $24.99, now $27.99. Light has BLF custom Anduril firmware which includes temperature monitoring, custom programming for number of modes and custom levels of each mode. It'll rub on both 18650's and 18350's. (Note the BLF page says "XP-L HI" but the product page says "XP-L or SST20". I doubt it's XP-L HI.) Go XP-L for max output (available in a range of tints) or SST20 for max CRI.

    Links:
    Banggood product page.

    BLF Group Buy Page.

    Astrolux would be the brand to have build a custom light for us if we ever tried again.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

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    i get refund my SP40 from banggood to.
    and Sofirn shipped it out some days ago.
    and a SD05 for 18$ and the new DF10" 18650 size equiped with a Samung LH351D high CRI" for 19$ i oder to to check it out.

    for the HL01 i preorder 3 of them.
    SST-20 x2 i hope they really build in the highest quality from it on the market like promidesd.
    and 1x XP-L HI in 4000K


    SST-20= higher lightquality and more throw"spoty"
    XP-L HI= more output per used current.

    i dont think the SP40 is a challenger for the HL01 but i will compare it after i recived both.

  113. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    I don't think I'm going to reorder the SP40 elsewhere as now I have preordered the new Astrolux HL01 headlamp through BLF's groupbuy (thanks for lostplaces tipping us off to that groupbuy).

    -Garry
    Sounds like the smart thing to do. Astrolux looks like it offers a lot more light for just a little more cost. My SP40 works OK but lots of room for improvement (as a bike light).
    Mole

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    Sofirns on 26” Fork

    Sofirn SC31B SST20 1000lm 4000K Sofirn SP40 Cree XPL 1200lm

    Vonpri [2 Pack] Bicycle Flashlight Holder Torch Clip 360º Rotation by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    Sofirns alone:
    Left: Sofirn SC31B SST20 1000lm 4000K Right: Sofirn SP40 Cree XPL 1200lm 4000K by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    Sofirns paired with KD BL2S Head Lamp
    Left: Sofirn SC31B SST20 1000lm 4000K Right: Sofirn SP40 Cree XPL 1200lm 4000K by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    Paired with KD BL70S + Diffusion Film, Bars
    Left: Sofirn SC31B SST20 1000lm 4000K Right: Sofirn SP40 Cree XPL 1200lm 4000K by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    Sofirn SP40 has kind of a weird color, not fond. SC31B much cleaner white at the same 4000K, guess the binning is different. Would have just bought a couple of the latter had I known then how much better it is, much cheaper too at only $15.93.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Sofi...917707163.html

    QR on those Vonpri mounts kind of a PITA; fortunately the Sofirns easily unscrew so I can just take out their 18650 cells for charging leaving the flashlights clamped to the fork.

    Have no idea yet what the run time might be for either of these on Turbo but guess I’ll find out soon enough!

  115. #115
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    Yeah, the tint mix of those Sofirns doesn't look so good. Nice beam coverage though.

    Just got another Christmas surprise - got a shipping notice on my Astrolux HL01 pre-order!

    -Garry

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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post

    Just got another Christmas surprise - got a shipping notice on my Astrolux HL01 pre-order!

    -Garry
    I've been wondering when you were going to get that light. Looking forward to hearing how it performs!!!
    Mole

    ***My Sofirn SP33V3 arrived a couple if days ago. Ramping UI and mode button work great and should add a lot of additional flexibility over the SD05 for cycling use (IMO). Unfortunately no time to mess with it currently but looks promising.***

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    BTW - I've also received my Sofirn SD05. I only had time to throw a half discharged weak cell in it, but still pretty impressive for +/- $20!

    Mole, have you considered trying the Astrolux EC01? And what do you think of Ramping UI's for cycling use? I don't think they work so well due to the fact that you can't adjust your light level very quickly (esp. on a gnarly and/or fast descent). I do think Anduril's user programability could probably be one of the best firmware out there allowing anyone to setup the light exactly as they want it.

    -Garry

  118. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    BTW - I've also received my Sofirn SD05. I only had time to throw a half discharged weak cell in it, but still pretty impressive for +/- $20!

    Mole, have you considered trying the Astrolux EC01? And what do you think of Ramping UI's for cycling use? I don't think they work so well due to the fact that you can't adjust your light level very quickly (esp. on a gnarly and/or fast descent). I do think Anduril's user programability could probably be one of the best firmware out there allowing anyone to setup the light exactly as they want it.

    -Garry
    Hey Garry,
    SD05 is a nice light and I'm sure you'll be happy with it. My only non-fixable thing with it for cycling use was the mode levels. Once I added the elliptical lens cover it softened the intensity enough to where low was a little dimmer than I cared for and med. was still a bit too bright for MUP's and not as bright as I wanted it for trails. Ramping mode will allow me to adjust to my taste but agree the ability to program the mode levels would be more ideal.

    I am interested in that EC01 light but am waiting to see how they perform. It's going to need a lot more throw than the SP40 before I push the button.
    Mole

  119. #119
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    Mole,
    Are you confusing the EC01 with the HL01? (I don't own an EC01, but noticed Cat has one.)

    -Garry

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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Mole,
    Are you confusing the EC01 with the HL01? (I don't own an EC01, but noticed Cat has one.)

    -Garry
    I'm not very familiar with the Astrolux lights so I probably am (confused). The one I'm interested in (HL01?) is the one similar to the Sofirn SP40. Cat mentioned how quickly the light he'd been reviewing heated up so probably not a good choice for me since I live in a desert.
    Mole

  121. #121
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    New question here.

    Hey folks! I know this is an ancient question (I am not a n00b, just pretending), what do you make of this (cheap) relic?


    It's the same-ish price as that Sorfin SC31B. How do those compare?

    Thanks for your opinions!

  122. #122
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    That light is known as the SolarStorm X3, or a clone thereof. I would expect it to have cheap knockoff LEDs, a poor performing driver, and likely lousy heatsinking. Those lights have all gone way downhill from what they were. Beamwise (assuming a decent performing light) you'd be looking at a wide beam that's not really throwy. That SP31 on the other hand would be the total opposite, quite throwy with dimmer spill.

    -Garry

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    New question here.

    So the Sofirn SP33V3.0 on sale at AE right now includes shipping from the USA in only 1-5 business days!

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/In-S...283536927.html

    Can anyone here tell me whether it supports pass through charging? Other little Sofirns I’ve purchased, SC31B and SP40, only run on Low when connected to a USB source.

    TIA!

  124. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    So the Sofirn SP33V3.0 on sale at AE right now includes shipping from the USA in only 1-5 business days!
    If you get one of those flashlights let us know how the shipping works. I just received mine a few days ago but it took about 3 weeks from the order date.


    Can anyone here tell me whether it supports pass through charging? Other little Sofirns I’ve purchased, SC31B and SP40, only run on Low when connected to a USB source.
    I didn't see it mentioned anywhere in the instruction manual or any description I've run across. For what it's worth I plugged in one of my powerbanks and the mode button started to flash red (indicates charging) and continued flashing red when the light was turned on. Light functioned normally with the powerbank plugged in. Quick test seems to indicate it will work but I've not had any time to play around with this light so have no idea whether its actually charging or not.
    Mole

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    Thanks for the info, Mole!

    Well as long as the SP33 runs normally when connected to USB and is flashing red that would indicate that it does indeed support pass through.

    Ordered a pair of the V3 with 25560 battery to replace the two little Sofirns mounted to my SXPC fork right now. Runtime should be decent the way they come but option to keep plugged into USB power banks while in use would guarantee over three hours each on High (if not Turbo.)

    Watched some YouTube videos and seems the color is quite noticeably warmer than the V2. But of course the OP reflector does cause a definite tint shift. So am also ordering some of that d-c-fix self-adhesive “milky” film Garry linked to a while ago, should even out the beam. Know it will limit the throw as well but not an issue when combined with the KD BL2s head lamp (which I can’t use for close range on my recumbents because of glare off the bars and cable housings.)

    So I take it yours shipped from China?

  126. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    So I take it yours shipped from China?
    Yes it did, do they have stock warehoused in the US now?


    Ordered a pair of the V3 with 25560 battery to replace the two little Sofirns mounted to my SXPC fork right now. Runtime should be decent the way they come but option to keep plugged into USB power banks while in use would guarantee over three hours each on High (if not Turbo.)
    Should be a pretty efficient light but definitely will need additional battery capacity to get 3 hrs. of runtime on high (1600 lumen rated). What are you planning on using as an external battery pack? I recently tried out a Magicshine usb converter that allowed me to use my regular bike battery packs to charge usb devices and it worked great. I know you have a few bike batteries so though you might be interested.
    Mole

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    Yeah Mole on the AE Sofirn Store they offer two Shipping options, from either China or USA (NOT “Russian Federation“ on this one.) Says 1-5 day shipping but I gather that doesn’t include processing time, for which they say to allow several days. Still should be faster than speed-pack from China.

    I’ve got a couple unused TrustFire 6-cell power banks and plenty of spare cells/chargers, plus a Xiaomi three cell power bank so should be good to go as long as pass through charging actually works on the SP33. Picked up a couple Rhinowalk frame bags and one for the chopper bars that I can attach to its bottom for a short run of the USB cables to either side of the fork, should be all set.

    Now I can forget about trying to mount that monster JKK03 from Kaidomain!

  128. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Now I can forget about trying to mount that monster JKK03 from Kaidomain!
    Dang, I wanted to see how you were going to pull that off. It would be nice to use one of my big throwers on rail trail rides, always fun to check out rivers and fields from a high point late in the evening. There's so much wildlife that comes out at night in urban areas and all you see is birds in the daytime.

    Those mounts you use on the forks scare me, I just keep thinking what would happen if a light winds up in the spokes.

  129. #129
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    Bought a new light today, maybe this time I'll actually get it. Tried once before got a shipped notice, a fake tracking number and eventually a refund.

    Not expecting much, its about six bucks American. Any cheaper and it would be made out of toilet paper tubes and hot melt glue.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3282...5d1f4c4dye37Xv

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    Quote Originally Posted by arc View Post
    Dang, I wanted to see how you were going to pull that off. It would be nice to use one of my big throwers on rail trail rides,
    Well you should be able to mount something like the JKK03 to your bars using methods previously discussed here. My big problem was finding a way to attach it to the fork at an angle rather than perpendicularly, the way mounting brackets are commonly designed.

    Quote Originally Posted by arc View Post
    Those mounts you use on the forks scare me, I just keep thinking what would happen if a light winds up in the spokes.
    You’re not half as scared as I am.

  131. #131
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    Sofirn SP33V3.0 Hi mode runtime test

    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Yeah Mole on the AE Sofirn Store they offer two Shipping options, from either China or USA (NOT “Russian Federation“ on this one.) Says 1-5 day shipping but I gather that doesn’t include processing time, for which they say to allow several days. Still should be faster than speed-pack from China.

    I’ve got a couple unused TrustFire 6-cell power banks and plenty of spare cells/chargers, plus a Xiaomi three cell power bank so should be good to go as long as pass through charging actually works on the SP33. Picked up a couple Rhinowalk frame bags and one for the chopper bars that I can attach to its bottom for a short run of the USB cables to either side of the fork, should be all set.

    Now I can forget about trying to mount that monster JKK03 from Kaidomain!


    I was curious how the SP33V3 would perform in a runtime vs. output test since the driver it has does not regulate the output consistency like the SD05. Did pretty good compared with similar output bike lights (Cateye Volt 1600, Moon Meteor Storm Pro) that have field changeable batteries. Bike lights have a nicer beam pattern for the bars but if you were willing to put up with the weight of any of these lights on the helmet the SP33V3 will out throw any of the others on the chart. Thought you'd find this interesting!
    Mole

    Red line = Sofirn SP33V3
    Fat Blue line = Moon Meteor Storm Pro
    2020 cheap lights thread-meteor-storm-pro-volt-1600-lumina-1200-xp33v3.jpg Left click on image to expand.

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    Quote Originally Posted by arc View Post
    Bought a new light today, maybe this time I'll actually get it. Tried once before got a shipped notice, a fake tracking number and eventually a refund.

    Not expecting much, its about six bucks American. Any cheaper and it would be made out of toilet paper tubes and hot melt glue.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3282...5d1f4c4dye37Xv
    Sometimes they absolutely shock me with what they will ship for so little money.
    I've gotten items WITH shipping cost included for less than the price to mail a letter to someone two states away.
    You might get a surprise. You might get crap

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    Wow Mole that is impressive. What battery was the Sofirn SP33V3 running?

    Never occurred to me to use as a helmet light, ordered the pair for the fork as they should fit those Vonpri mounts I recently installed. Am aware that the beam isn’t perfect but that d-c-fix stick-on diffusing film should smooth it out. Don’t need so much throw from lights at that level, they’ll be my low beams. Keeping the KD BT2s 4000K on my noggin, that thing makes a terrific high beam, excellent color and weighs like nothing (four cell flat pack goes in my jacket flap pocket where I can barely feel it.)

    Incidentally, the Rhinowalk handlebar bag and one for the frame came in today, they are stunning. Will be able to fit a few hefty powerbanks inside them along with tools and tubes; pics to come.

    Oh and I did end up ordering a couple of those JKK03s after all. Reason being, think I can attach them to my chopper bars pretty easily (just not to the fork) and the 46mm head diameter seems like it will support the 39mm Action-LED Wide Angle Lens. Oriented horizontally it creates a nice long narrow beam and eliminates the rings generated by the XHP70.2 inside its reflector. Admittedly the set up I envision won’t be compatible with the fairing that’s about to go on the front of my bike, but that’s just for winter use anyway. Probably be summer before I receive the flashlights from Kaidomain.

  134. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Wow Mole that is impressive. What battery was the Sofirn SP33V3 running?

    Never occurred to me to use as a helmet light
    I used the Sofirn 5500mAh 26650 that came with my light. Considering weight and mounting options I don't think many would be willing to deal with the SP33V3 as a helmet light. I got my SD05 with 21700 set up to be fairly comfortable mounting it with a thin foam pad and a buckled strap directly to the helmet surface so the SP33V3 should work similarly with a 18650 installed but still a pita to set up.
    Mole

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    Mole, is it possible to unscrew the bezel from the SP33V3? Interested to see whether it would fit one of those 39mm wide angle diffusers.

    Also, I assume the chart you posted was of all three lights running on High (not Turbo)?

    Interested to see how the Sofirn does on the Medium setting.

    One of the YouTube videos mentioned that V3 is warmer than previous, any idea on true color temperature?

    Thanks again!

  136. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Mole, is it possible to unscrew the bezel from the SP33V3? Interested to see whether it would fit one of those 39mm wide angle diffusers.

    Also, I assume the chart you posted was of all three lights running on High (not Turbo)?

    Interested to see how the Sofirn does on the Medium setting.

    One of the YouTube videos mentioned that V3 is warmer than previous, any idea on true color temperature?

    Thanks again!
    Not sure, I couldn't get the bezel to unscrew by hand. I'll have to look around to see if I can find an appropriately sized strap wrench and give that a try. 39mm lens is too large and wouldn't fit without some modification.

    Light & Motion measurements (Lumina/Cateye) were done in the highest mode and the SP33V3 and Moon light were done in their high mode (1600 - 1700 claimed lumens). Measuring how the SP33V3 works in the med. mode would take over 8 hrs. to do so I think I'll pass on that test. Haven't actually got to ride with this light yet but anticipate the 450 lumen med. mode will be quite useful.

    Tint looks pretty much like the 6500K it's rated at to me.
    Mole

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    D’oh, I was confusing the measurements of the SP33 with those of the JKK03 from Kaidomain — that one has a 46mm bezel so am guessing it’s the right size for the Action-LED lens. Yeah those Sofirns come screwed tight, I couldn’t get the bezels off either my SP40 or SC31B with a reverse ring pliers. Fortunately that sticky diffusion film Garry mentioned should adhere to the exterior and remain fairly weather proof.

    Figure that under the Sofirn’s ramping mode it should be easy to eek out two to three hours runtime around 1000 lumen, though of course it will be tricky to set that level even approximately by eye.

    Am surprised the color temperature is so cool, many reviewers mentioned how much warmer the current model seemed than the V2, huh. Couldn’t find the rating anywhere so took their word for it; clips and pics led me to believe it was NW but with tint shift from the reflector. Wonder whether it would be possible to swap out the emitter without having first to remove that obstinate bezel. Oh well, will wait till I get them in my hot little hands before rushing to judgement (yeah right.)

    Thanks again Mole!

  138. #138
    arc
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    Hey Andy, I was looking into the big flashlight mount idea. What do you think of mounting a double gopro bracket to one of Vancbikers bar mounts and using two gopro flashlight mounts?

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3275...27424c4dzi3LFg

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3282...7-a000-da56742

  139. #139
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    Not sure I can picture exactly what you have in mind, arc, but if it depends on those rectangular rubber bands make sure first that they’re long enough for your thrower. Because they look kinda short to me and the dimensions listed for that item under Specifications: width 300-400mm, are obviously ridiculous.
    Last edited by andychrist; 12-30-2019 at 09:59 AM.

  140. #140
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    Hey arc, look what I just ordered:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    They’re rated from 33 to 220 lbs so should be no problem on the bars with any flashlight that fits, up to 52mm diameter. Smaller plastic clamps will be kinda loose for my own 22mm chopper bars so plan to shim those with spent tire tubbing. The 2” black anodized clamps might also be ever so slightly large for the 46mm JKK03 flashlights I have on order from Kaidomain, in which case a layer or two of aluminum tape wound around their COG should easily suffice.

    And of course the wing nuts won’t fit once the plastic and alloy clamps are paired together, so also ordered a set of 10mm SS Nylock nuts, M10x 25mm SS Allen socket caps and 10mm SS washers to go with. Finished product will couple similarly to these (but look much cooler):

    https://www.amazon.com/Swivel-Couple...7Z9YN9KERM4ZQS

    Cost me around $75 for the five complete sets of hardware, but only need a couple to mount the two KD flashlights. So will have three left over in case you or anybody else here is interested; willing to sell without any markup. That’s just $15 per dual clamp mount, plus [economy] shipping [Contiguous USA only] of course.

    Now don’t all answer at once!
    Last edited by andychrist; 12-30-2019 at 06:02 PM.

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    P.S: All Metal Mounting Option

    https://www.thelightsource.com/produ...ga-gridlock-11

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/The-Light...ized/305860026 Best price I’ve seen and free shipping to boot.

    These could also work as flashlight mounts on straight bars with the appropriate shims. Might be a good choice where QR is not desired — after all, batteries can be removed pretty easily from any flashlight merely by unscrewing the end cap. In any event probably indestructible.

    Only little drawback, unlike the dual clamp system posted above, the Mega-Gridlock divides pressure between the two perpendicular tubes — whereas one would want the flashlight to be gripped less tightly than the handlebars. Though some nice black foam padding could prevent any damage to the light body while keeping the entire assembly from slipping/rocking.

    Stated weight of 15oz seems to me like it must be incorrect if the units are indeed anodized and therefore aluminum alloy.

    Don’t think I’m gonna try this one out myself because I want to mount my flashlights as close to the ends of my chopper bars’ horizontal support and these things are relatively wide, would center the lights too far inward. Of course I’m tempted though.

  142. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Am surprised the color temperature is so cool, many reviewers mentioned how much warmer the current model seemed than the V2, huh. Couldn’t find the rating anywhere so took their word for it; clips and pics led me to believe it was NW but with tint shift from the reflector. Wonder whether it would be possible to swap out the emitter without having first to remove that obstinate bezel. Oh well, will wait till I get them in my hot little hands before rushing to judgement (yeah right.)
    I was a bit surprised too because it is noticeably cooler than my SD05. I'm pretty sure Lostplaces switched to a warmer emitter in his SD05 so finding out how he did it would probably provide us with an answer on how to get into the SP33V3. I still need to go get an adjustable strap wrench and give that a try too.

    Figure that under the Sofirn’s ramping mode it should be easy to eek out two to three hours runtime around 1000 lumen, though of course it will be tricky to set that level even approximately by eye.
    I did my first ride using the SP33V3 tonight. 31 miles on a fat bike was no problem on a single battery. Most of the ride I just had it in the ramping mode set to what I was most comfortable with (something below the 1600 lumen high mode). I did try the preset program using the 450 and 1600 lumen modes but liked the ramping mode better (tonight anyway). Probably had the lights on close to 3 hrs. so good enough for my normal after dinner rides. A+ on the mode button functionality and feel, makes for a enjoyable light to use.
    Mole

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    Mole, when entering Ramping mode on the SP33V3, does it start out from the last level it was on in Group 1 or some other default such as High/1600LM?

    Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Mole, when entering Ramping mode on the SP33V3, does it start out from the last level it was on in Group 1 or some other default such as High/1600LM?

    Thanks!
    Last level it was on. Memory function includes both Group setting and output level at startup.
    Mole

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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    I was a bit surprised too because it is noticeably cooler than my SD05. I'm pretty sure Lostplaces switched to a warmer emitter in his SD05 so finding out how he did it would probably provide us with an answer on how to get into the SP33V3. I still need to go get an adjustable strap wrench and give that a try too.
    Well the SP33V3 is using CREE’s new 3V XHP50.2 emitter, and apparently there’s nothing else comparable on the market now in any warmer tint. So guess the issue is kinda moot for now.

    Fortunately the color doesn’t look bad at all from the pics and videos I’ve seen but then that might just have been a result of auto color balance.

    Anyway if the bezel can be removed so that the reflector pops out, a faint coat of egg-yoke yellow tinted lacquer can be sprayed over the OP to make the light appear warmer (at the expense of some brightness.)

  146. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Well the SP33V3 is using CREE’s new 3V XHP50.2 emitter, and apparently there’s nothing else comparable on the market now in any warmer tint. So guess the issue is kinda moot for now.

    Fortunately the color doesn’t look bad at all from the pics and videos I’ve seen but then that might just have been a result of auto color balance.

    Anyway if the bezel can be removed so that the reflector pops out, a faint coat of egg-yoke yellow tinted lacquer can be sprayed over the OP to make the light appear warmer (at the expense of some brightness.)
    I'm not that sensitive to light tint as long as my lights are a fairly close match when using more than one. Off road I do prefer the warmer tints but last nights ride was mostly pavement and the little bit of dirt was very dark as its been fairly wet here for the last few weeks. For those conditions the tint on the SP33V3 seemed fine (ramping mode may have helped). I also had the Action wide angle lens cover on which tends to smooth out the beam coverage and that definitely helps. I sent a PM to Lostplaces to see if he has any suggestions on bezel removal but haven't got a response yet. My old tube retention method works fine but would like to eventually be able to mount the lens cover under the bezel.
    Mole

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    Mole, I looked through the SP33 review threads over on BLF and nobody mentioned the threads being glued. They did however mention the bezels being on very tight, so maybe you do just need that strap wrench.

    -Garry

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    Yeah apparently the threads are not glued on the SP33V3 but someone there did mention that they had been on the V2.

    So now for another really stupid question: Since there are currently no alternatives to the 3V XHP50.2 6500K, what would happen were one to swap in a warmer 6V emitter — would the lamp simply fail or might it just put out half the lumens and deliver twice the runtime? If the latter is the case that’d be an ideal solution for me, because I ordered two of these suckers to use as running lights on my bike’s fork and don’t need a lot of output there.

    Thanks Garry!

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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Yeah apparently the threads are not glued on the SP33V3 but someone there did mention that they had been on the V2.
    Ah, so you did find that somewhere? I only quickly perused the review threads (no pun intended), but if did find someone stating that I'd say they could very well be glued. It'll just take a little more effort and maybe a little heat on the threads to get past that glue.

    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    So now for another really stupid question: Since there are currently no alternatives to the 3V XHP50.2 6500K, what would happen were one to swap in a warmer 6V emitter — would the lamp simply fail or might it just put out half the lumens and deliver twice the runtime? If the latter is the case that’d be an ideal solution for me, because I ordered two of these suckers to use as running lights on my bike’s fork and don’t need a lot of output there.

    Thanks Garry!
    Well you're beyond my knowledge point now. The 3V XHP50.2 came out after I stopped keeping up with the current tech and availability. From what I understand, this V3 model does NOT use a boost driver, so I'd expect a 6V emitter to either not light at all, or be very very dim - either way it's not an realistic option without swapping a driver.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  150. #150
    arc
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Yeah apparently the threads are not glued on the SP33V3 but someone there did mention that they had been on the V2.

    So now for another really stupid question: Since there are currently no alternatives to the 3V XHP50.2 6500K, what would happen were one to swap in a warmer 6V emitter — would the lamp simply fail or might it just put out half the lumens and deliver twice the runtime? If the latter is the case that’d be an ideal solution for me, because I ordered two of these suckers to use as running lights on my bike’s fork and don’t need a lot of output there.

    Thanks Garry!
    Probably easiest just to put an XML2 on there, its the same solder footprint. Tighter beam, probably twenty-five percent less efficient and a lot less output if any of that matters to you.

  151. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    So now for another really stupid question: Since there are currently no alternatives to the 3V XHP50.2 6500K
    Don't kn ow whether to believe this Banggood site but seems to indicate you can get this Astrolux EC01 with the XHP50.2B-3V emitter in either 5000K or 6000-6500K???
    Mole

    2020 cheap lights thread-screenshot_2020-01-02-astrolux-ec01-xhp50b-3v-3500lm-298m-anduril-ui-usb-c-rechargeable-ipx8-wat.jpg

  152. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Don't kn ow whether to believe this Banggood site but seems to indicate you can get this Astrolux EC01 with the XHP50.2B-3V emitter in either 5000K or 6000-6500K???
    $26.32 at aliexpress

    https://tinyurl.com/qmrkbs8

    2020 cheap lights thread-tndrusz.png

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    Quote Originally Posted by arc View Post
    Probably easiest just to put an XML2 on there, its the same solder footprint. Tighter beam, probably twenty-five percent less efficient and a lot less output if any of that matters to you.
    Are there XM L2 emitters available in 3V? Because I couldn’t find any 3V emitters for sale at all.

  154. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    For those conditions the tint on the SP33V3 seemed fine (ramping mode may have helped). I also had the Action wide angle lens cover on which tends to smooth out the beam coverage and that definitely helps. I sent a PM to Lostplaces to see if he has any suggestions on bezel removal but haven't got a response yet.
    Mole
    hi i dont have the SP33V3 so i dont know if they make again glue on it, but on the SD05 Sofirn make a point of glue on the brezel.
    for this problem i have somethink like this at home.
    ist a hard ruberband , but any type of grippy rubber material and a little force will break the glued point.

    there is norhing that can be destroid.

    and yes the V3 uses same FET driver with an 3V XHP50 like the EC01 what i have 2 times at home.
    thr only differenz between the SP33V3 and the EC01"same size like the SD05" ist the battery option and software on the light.

    the V2 of this light have used the 6V XHP50 and a boost driver like the SD05 is doing it.

    EC01=21700+18650= more compact.
    SP33V3=26650+21700+18650= more bulky.

    EC01= full Anduril software
    SP33V3= by sofirme reduzed software to some parts from anduril

    The EC01 is sold in 6000K and 5000K in real world there are a ~6400K LED =1A bin
    and the other is a ~5800K bin=2A bin

    a real 5000K is a 3A bin and its the lowest bin what you can by in 3V XHP50.

    XHP50 have mainly the problem that cree puts to much phospor on the LEDs that results in the ugly tint shift, you see it in the corona from the beam.

    Spot= white
    corona= yellowish/greenish
    spill= whiteblueish

    looks very ugly

    only below 5000K XHP50 or 70 LEDs have a nice coloration for the Eyes.
    Example here.

    there are some solution for it:
    1. change the LED for example SST-40 in 5000K looks great, but the downside, the light will only run up to ~2500 lumen max!!!

    2. cut shave the dome from the LED and cut the to much phospor from the sides away.

    on that way you get with the XHP50 LED a near clean similar from spot to spill whitout yellow/green corona!!!!

    i have do it on the EC01 same like the SD05!

    on the SD05 you can very easy change the LED to a good looking one without cutting.

    i have put into my 2x SD05 this one in on a 20mm board.

    its very easy, unscrew the bezel with some force.
    remove the reflector.
    unsolder the 2 wires.
    put in the new board, solder the 2 wires again on.

    srew the light together and have fun!!!!
    ~5-10 minutes of time it needs.

    the older batch of the SD05 have a loosy ring and the board srewed with 2 screws on it, the 2 batch of SD05 have have no screews on the board and the magnetic ring runs harder.
    cos people find thering to easy to move sofirm makes for the new batch a tighter harder moveable ring.....

    here some screens and the small brother of the SD05 and EC01 vs SD05 Reflector that is near similar.
    2020 cheap lights thread-img_20200101_132803.jpg2020 cheap lights thread-img_20191005_142531.jpg2020 cheap lights thread-img_20191013_103106.jpg2020 cheap lights thread-img_20191013_103223.jpg2020 cheap lights thread-img_20191215_105851.jpg2020 cheap lights thread-img_20191215_103840.jpg2020 cheap lights thread-img_20191215_110500.jpg2020 cheap lights thread-img_20191215_110505.jpg

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    Too bad the only place to get a 3V emitter under 6500K is in an Astrolux.

    On CREE’s own data sheet they list the 3V XHP50.2 in various bins down to 3000 or 4000K but guess they are not available retail any place yet, if even actually in production.

    On a brighter note, the current JKK03 XHP70.2 is available in a complete range of color temperatures and features Constant Current. Doesn’t support ramping but the mode levels make good sense for a bike light.

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    @lostplaces: So would that 6/12V CREE XHP50.2 J2 40G NEUTRAL WHITE 4000K CRI80 LED EMITTER work okay in the SP33V3.0, other than falling short of max lumens? TIA

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    Quote Originally Posted by lostplaces View Post
    hi i dont have the SP33V3 so i dont know if they make again glue on it, but on the SD05 Sofirn make a point of glue on the brezel.
    for this problem i have somethink like this at home.
    ist a hard ruberband , but any type of grippy rubber material and a little force will break the glued point.

    there is norhing that can be destroid.
    Thanks! Will pick up one of those tools and give it a try.


    and yes the V3 uses same FET driver with an 3V XHP50 like the EC01 what i have 2 times at home.
    Looking at an output chart in a ZeroAir review of the EC01 I noticed a greater initial lumen output drop than I've seen with other similar lights and was wondering if you think heat was the case of the excessive drop or maybe if the thermal threshold were to be reprogrammed to a higher level that the degrading output would bottom out at a higher level?

    Do you have the Astrolux HL01 yet?
    Mole

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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Are there XM L2 emitters available in 3V? Because I couldn’t find any 3V emitters for sale at all.
    The Vf of an XML-2 is about 2.7V-3.3V. It changes depending on how much current you are running. More current = higher Vf.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

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    Too bad XM-L2 is only half as efficient as XHP. I’d ordered the Sofirns SP33V3 because they can supposedly run over two hours on High from a single 26650 5500mAh cell.

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    I just bought a MagicShine MJ900 for my wife. She wanted a helmet light. Magic Shine doesn't call it a helmet light, but it looked viable so I took a shot in the dark (pun intended).
    Turns out it's a perfect helmet light. The head unit is very small and light-weight. 1200 lumen output seems to be accurate... comparing to a 900 lumen light it is definitely brighter.

    $59 on Amazon. Quality looks solid and with Magic Shine, accessories, batteries, cables..are readily available.
    TTUB - Ventura County California

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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Too bad XM-L2 is only half as efficient as XHP. I’d ordered the Sofirns SP33V3 because they can supposedly run over two hours on High from a single 26650 5500mAh cell.
    Hopefully you won't mind the tint when you get a chance to try it. The elliptical lens cover helped smooth out the beam coverage + being able to adjust the light to exactly the intensity I was most happy with I think helped too but I was running the light by itself which I don't think you'll be doing. Strap wrench worked like a charm!!!
    Mole

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    Quote Originally Posted by TTUB View Post
    I just bought a MagicShine MJ900.......
    ......... 1200 lumen output seems to be accurate... comparing to a 900 lumen light it is definitely brighter....
    MJ900 is a nice light, but the 1200 lumen is greatly exaggerated. 700 would be closer to the real output. The great majority of Chinese lights have inflated lumen numbers for marketing reasons.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  163. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Too bad XM-L2 is only half as efficient as XHP. I’d ordered the Sofirns SP33V3 because they can supposedly run over two hours on High from a single 26650 5500mAh cell.
    It can't hurt to try, you probably have a light you can steal one out of to try. The xml will be down a couple hundred lumens but has a much better hotspot than the xhp50 and a lot less of the cree rainbow. You might like it better.

    I believe the V2 version had a boost driver and six volt xhp50. Sofirn lists a V2 replacement driver, maybe email them and ask them if it will fit.

    Sofirn is quite often a little funky on driver and mcpcb sizes. If a normal size mcpcb is used an xhp70 may work using this optic from Kaidomain. Its about 28mm if you pop it out of the holder, I'd love to find a host to fit it.

    http://kaidomain.com/S028407-32_5mm-...search=S028407

    Justed checked, I'm not sure which version driver they are listing. Probably best to ask them if it is the 6v version.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Hopefully you won't mind the tint when you get a chance to try it. The elliptical lens cover helped smooth out the beam coverage + being able to adjust the light to exactly the intensity I was most happy with I think helped too but I was running the light by itself which I don't think you'll be doing. Strap wrench worked like a charm!!!
    Mole
    Actually the beam shots on YouTube and various other reviews didn’t look bad to me at all, which is why I ordered two of the SP33V3.

    And while that wide angle lens won’t fit inside it without some fine lathing, the Milky d-c-fix film ought to work fine, have a roll of that on order.

    Just wonder how well the CW tint will blend with my other lights. Hoping that enough overlap will disguise the differences. Like for instance that last ridiculously warm, rusty looking BT40S that was on the market combines beautifully with the beams from my 5000K KD bike lamps; net effect is a natural looking rich white light better than I get from any single other lamp alone. So keeping my fingers crossed.

    Quote Originally Posted by arc View Post
    It can't hurt to try, you probably have a light you can steal one out of to try. The xml will be down a couple hundred lumens but has a much better hotspot than the xhp50 and a lot less of the cree rainbow. You might like it better.

    I believe the V2 version had a boost driver and six volt xhp50. Sofirn lists a V2 replacement driver, maybe email them and ask them if it will fit.

    Sofirn is quite often a little funky on driver and mcpcb sizes. If a normal size mcpcb is used an xhp70 may work using this optic from Kaidomain. Its about 28mm if you pop it out of the holder, I'd love to find a host to fit it.

    http://kaidomain.com/S028407-32_5mm-...search=S028407

    Justed checked, I'm not sure which version driver they are listing. Probably best to ask them if it is the 6v version.
    Well my soldering skills lack the finesse needed to swap drivers anyway. Emitters OTOH are a cinch, there’s always enough room on a star to tolerate some sloppiness. Am sure to have a couple extra NW XM-L2 still unused sitting around here somewhere.

    Yikes, that optical lens from KD has a 5º beam! Dunno whether I’d have any use for that but if it fits inside the SP33 would be mighty tempted to try it out, if only to satisfy my curiosity.

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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    @lostplaces: So would that 6/12V CREE XHP50.2 J2 40G NEUTRAL WHITE 4000K CRI80 LED EMITTER work okay in the SP33V3.0, other than falling short of max lumens? TIA
    No, the linked LED is only for ~6 Volt drivers!!!
    on a FET 3V driver the LED get to low Voltage!!!
    here you can see the voltage range from a 6 Volt XHP50.
    it begin at ~ 5,5 Volts up to ~ 7 Volts.

    The LED works in the SP33V2= boost driver =~5-12 Volt
    SP33V3=3 Volt FET driver= 2,5-4,2 Volt LED range


    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Looking at an output chart in a ZeroAir review of the EC01 I noticed a greater initial lumen output drop than I've seen with other similar lights and was wondering if you think heat was the case of the excessive drop or maybe if the thermal threshold
    Mole
    ZeroAir test the light out of the box= Anduril is mostly horrible !!!

    on any Anduril Software based light are first steps, calibrate the room temperatur and next step is to set where you want that the temp regulation kicks in!!!


    Out of the box my EC01 for example have mesured my room temperatur at home 22°C with 37°C and the temp regulatin was set to ~50°C so only ~15°C space for regulation!!!


    calibrate the sensor to 22°C and set it up for example to 70°C =50°C space up to regulation point.


    next importand part for any fully temp regutated light is the airflow, more airflow an cooler conditions= horrible outputs!!!

    much over 2000 Lumen constant output is for the EC01 on a bike mounted nothing.
    ~3000 Lumen i think will be not possible it says ~25 Watt of Heat for the body and i think the airflow on the bike will not cool it enought.

    SP33V3 is preset against new out of the box full anduril lights.

    and my HL01 with XP-L HI is on the way, the SST-20 version is not shipped out the have problems to get the SST-20 LEDs again.....

    the HL01 needs same like any other Anduril light, first calibrate it.

  166. #166
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    Nitecore Diffuser for 34mm Flashlight

    Mole, this diffuser should fit over your SP33V3 in case you don’t want to shave down your Wide Angle Lens to fit inside it.


    https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...eter_34mm.html

  167. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Mole, this diffuser should fit over your SP33V3 in case you don’t want to shave down your Wide Angle Lens to fit inside it.


    https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...eter_34mm.html
    Thanks, I really like the beam pattern on the Action-LED-Lights wide angle lens cover so plan on taking the time to file it down.
    Mole

  168. #168
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    I don’t blame you Mole, that Action-LED WAL makes a sweet beam.

    Trouble is that if you file away the edges of the wide angle lens you lose the flat rim that seals to the bezel via O-ring. The channels in the rest of the disk will leave gaps that you’d have to seal with silicone (messy) unless you also file down a new rim. Too bad Dremel lathe solutions are so involved and expensive.

  169. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Mole, this diffuser should fit over your SP33V3 in case you don’t want to shave down your Wide Angle Lens to fit inside it.


    https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...eter_34mm.html
    There is no need to buy this bulky ugly stuff.

    to filter the beam to diffus or smooth out rings discolorations films are the way to go.

    i construction markets you can take samples for free from D-C fix self sticking films.
    for the first trys the milky/sand, Opal or frosted are good trys.
    i have play alot with them over the years.

    here for the beginning.
    D-c-fix diffusion film | BudgetLightForum.com
    https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/t...-folien.25843/
    https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/t...en-test.59245/


    with google search pictures you will find alot other examples.

    if you will have a heavy full smooth beam like the junk from nitecore, or exactly color fitratuions take lee films.
    Wide Range of Diffusion Filters in a Range of Densities

    my lee 216 outperformes easy this nitecore plastik or glas stuff....higher light transmission!!!!!
    https://www.thomann.de/at/lee_farbfo...CABEgKURPD_BwE

    overall all diffusors eat alot of light"lumens!!"

    the best film on the market i never get into my hands by myself.


    i have over the years play alot with this stuff.
    forget this ready to use put on stuff all of them are junk i have over the years compare alot of them against ~100 of films!!!!


    peace of D-C fix the nitecore diffusor and a peace of the Lee 216 from my endless filtercollection.
    2020 cheap lights thread-img_20200103_144342.jpg

    i highly recommend for first trys D-C fix self sticking stuff coz small samples" for ~20 lights ea peace" are in my country for free.

  170. #170
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    Yes garrybunk posted about d-c-fix a while ago and I have a roll of it on order myself. Trouble is that it scatters light in all directions, whereas the Wide Angle Lens produces an elliptical beam that can be oriented either vertically or horizontally. You can even install two of them perpendicularly back to back and that will result in a very even square beam.

    https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...l#post14456693

    https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...l#post14463201

    https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...l#post14463945

    I also made my own diffuser from non-stick plastic fabric, which appears to be the same as that “best film on the market i never get into my hands by myself” you mentioned.

    https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...l#post14464697

    https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night...l#post14464993

  171. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    MJ900 is a nice light, but the 1200 lumen is greatly exaggerated. 700 would be closer to the real output. The great majority of Chinese lights have inflated lumen numbers for marketing reasons.
    I did a little more digging and you are correct... the 900L light I was comparing it to turns out to be more like 700L. Understanding that, I'd say the MJ900 is putting out atleast 900L... but as you note, probably not 1200L.
    TTUB - Ventura County California

  172. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    I don’t blame you Mole, that Action-LED WAL makes a sweet beam.

    Trouble is that if you file away the edges of the wide angle lens you lose the flat rim that seals to the bezel via O-ring. The channels in the rest of the disk will leave gaps that you’d have to seal with silicone (messy) unless you also file down a new rim. Too bad Dremel lathe solutions are so involved and expensive.
    That's a good point to consider if you live in a wet climate. For me living in a desert it's not such a big deal but the SP33V3 does come with o-rings on each side of the cover lens so you still have seal with 2 flat surfaces on at least 1 side of the Action lens. I've not had good luck using a Dremel with this type of lens material as its prone to melting so just prefer to use a hand file.
    Mole

  173. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post

    Yikes, that optical lens from KD has a 5º beam! Dunno whether I’d have any use for that but if it fits inside the SP33 would be mighty tempted to try it out, if only to satisfy my curiosity.
    It's not a 5º beam with the xhp70, there's also a wider angle one. I have an xhp70 C8 with an orange peel reflector that has too narrow of a beam for bar use. Removing the reflector and holding the a optic over the led produces a nice looking beam but its hard to say how much my fingers are influencing things. The mcpcb is not bolted down on this light and depends on the reflector to press it into the pill for heat transfer so I cant mess around too much.

    I found a nice emitter at Digikey, much less of the cree rainbow than the xhp50 and better efficiency as well. Kaidomain's H1-A boost driver is really efficient driver in the middle modes, there's a schematic and test reports on the driver at BLF. It could be a great single cell light.

  174. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by arc View Post
    I found a nice emitter at Digikey, much less of the cree rainbow than the xhp50 and better efficiency as well.
    What is this emitter you speak ok?

    -Garry

  175. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    What is this emitter you speak ok?

    -Garry
    Its an 4000k xhp70 P2 with a nice tint, the ones I got from Kaidomain a long time ago seemed to have a lot of yellow and brown in them.

  176. #176
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    Mole, the vendor’s website confirms that the SP33V3 supports pass through charging. By any chance could you tell me whether it can also be run in all modes directly from an external USB source without a battery inside? TIA

    BTW mine are finally scheduled for delivery, this coming Friday woo hoo. Apparently info on their [super economy?] shipping “4PX US Ground big packet” never updates but since the parcel was transferred to FedEx (SmartPost) yesterday the tracking number works there.

    Oh and they’re back in stock at the Sofirn USA warehouse for $32.83 with a $1 off coupon for orders of $19 or more, $6 off $65 and over. So buy two for only $59.66 + PP International fee + state tax.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...27424c4dEXg7ul

    Also both the d-c-fix Milky and Rosco filters came in so will be able to test them on the Sofirns once they get here. Mean time working on another coupla reflecting shields.

  177. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Mole, the vendor’s website confirms that the SP33V3 supports pass through charging. By any chance could you tell me whether it can also be run in all modes directly from an external USB source without a battery inside? TIA
    Well it kind of works. I tried it without the battery in the preset program and all three levels worked but were considerably dimmer. Will get some measurements when I get a chance.
    Mole

  178. #178
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    Thanks Mole, that’s really all I needed to know for now. Will see for myself once I get my hot little hands on them.

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    Seems like a sweet light even if only used as a flashlight!

  180. #180
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    Well last night I went out for a ride and spent some time getting some beamshot photos and some ride videos. I was mainly evaluating the Sofirn SD05 as a bar light. For beamshot comparisons I compared the SD05, the Sofirn SP40, Nitefighter/Revtronic BT21, Nitefighter/Revtronic BT40S, and my custom HD-016. I'll have to upload everything and compare later (I'll probably create a separate SD05 thread rather than clutter up this thread).

    Some quick thoughts:

    1) The SD05 is rather impressive being a single cell single emitter flashlight, but the output didn't look like +/-2,500 lumens to me (though reviewing pics now, I can see a huge difference compared to my other lights).

    2) Tint of the SD05 was much cooler than I prefer, but useable.

    3) Was wishing the SD05 had a wider flood beam for bar use.

    4) Found myself using the SD05 on high for all descents. I was waiting for it to kick down to medium level but I never noticed it drop at all. This has me puzzled. (I'm wondering if perhaps I ended up with a v2 SD05 instead of the v3.)

    5) The SD05 with a 21700 inside is quite heavy, so I agree it's not well suited for helmet mounting.

    6) This clamp worked great for holding the SD05 on my 35mm bars. Good and sturdy, didn't move at all while riding.

    7) The SP40 is impressive on Turbo and okay on High, but Medium and Low really aren't useable while riding. Of course Turbo has the timed stepdown (which I didn't test). I did NOT ride with the SP40 as I didn't have time to get it mounted to my helmet.

    8) I was impressed with the remaining capacity of my 21700 cell after the ride (voltage at 4.01v) considering I ran high quite a bit. I didn't use the light the entire ride, but I thought I ran high enough to really drain the cell down well below 4v.

    Still anxiously awaiting my HL-01 headlamp! Looking forward to trying out a light that isn't using a timed step-down, but has thermal monitoring.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  181. #181
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    Well I guess I could post a couple pics now. Note that my white balance isn't that accurate and that the tint of the lights appear slightly cooler than they really are. (My camera's "Daylight" white balance setting was causing the lights to appear too warm.) Also, my SP40 is the 4000k tint version.

    SD05 on High:
    2020 cheap lights thread-p1030605-sd05-high.jpg

    SD05 on Med:
    2020 cheap lights thread-p1030606-sd05-med.jpg

    SP40 on Turbo:
    2020 cheap lights thread-p1030615-sp40-turbo.jpg

    SP40 on High:
    2020 cheap lights thread-p1030616-sp40-high.jpg

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  182. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    1) The SD05 is rather impressive being a single cell single emitter flashlight, but the output didn't look like +/-2,500 lumens to me (though reviewing pics now, I can see a huge difference compared to my other lights).
    -Garry
    I don't use the Hi mode on my SD05 but I was curious how it performed and quite surprised when measuring the timed step down (ramp down is more accurate). While my light made every bit of its claimed 2550 lumen at startup it quickly ramped down losing around 500 lumens every min. and leveled off just under 1000 lumens. Very little time was output even close to its max. which explains your riding impression of being less powerful than its claimed output. Thermally regulated 1000ish lumen med. modes output curve is totally flat for its 2.5 hr. duration though.


    Still anxiously awaiting my HL-01 headlamp! Looking forward to trying out a light that isn't using a timed step-down, but has thermal monitoring.
    Me too!!!

    Mole

  183. #183
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    Garry, those shots sure look impressive. But what do you mean the beam of the SD05 is too narrow for a bar light, does it not come close enough to the front wheel? If that’s the case, have you considered applying some of that d-c-fix Milky diffusion film, or do you think that would spread the beam out too much? If that’s the problem, I might have a solution to both that and the too cool tint. Check out my DIY Reflector Shields:

    https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-d...l#post14504429

    KD Magicshine MJ808 Clone DIY Reflector Shield Holographic Orange Mylar by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    Adding the metallic orange reflector warms the tint and redirects light from the diffuser back down so that it is not wasted in the sky or too far across the trail, loosing all its throw. Astonishing how well it worked on the CW MJ808 clone Kaidomain gifted me. Along with my home-brewed diffuser, just about eliminated the blue and subdued the hot spot for a smooth, efficient beam.

    Pardon the funky look of this prototype, think I’ve figured out a way now to produce them wrinkle-free. If you’d like I can send you one free of charge that should fit your SD05, along with some of that Milky film if you don’t have any. Is your mailing address still the same?

  184. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Garry, those shots sure look impressive. But what do you mean the beam of the SD05 is too narrow for a bar light, does it not come close enough to the front wheel?
    I guess I'm spoiled by my wide floody lights. This light of course produces a round beam that is dimmer away from the central hotspot. So it lights up close to the front tire, but only at the tire and not so close to the sides. Riding with just a round spot beam bar light produces what I refer to as the "wandering/bouncing ball of light" as you're steering. So if I'm heading one direction, but the trail is curving/turning to the other direction, then I don't have enough bar light illuminating around that curve. Of course the situation is better with a helmet light, but my helmet light is generally directed way out ahead and not up close. This will all become apparent in the videos I hope to eventually post.

    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Is your mailing address still the same?
    Why yes it is. I do have some DC Fix leftover (somewhere), as well as a supply of "Glad Press-N-Seal".

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  185. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Of course the situation is better with a helmet light, but my helmet light is generally directed way out ahead and not up close.
    -Garry
    Yeah that’s the same thing with my recumbent, in spades. Bars are so far out ahead of me I can’t use a helmet light/headlamp up close, there’d be too much glare inside the cockpit.

    With the SD05 on your bars some diffusion film should take care of the narrow spot well enough to provide peripheral illumination, and along with my handy dandy reflector shield won’t waste the remainder of the light where it isn’t needed. Another part of the solution might be to attach either that light or something more floody to your bike’s head tube, where it won’t rotate with steering. I know they do make mounts for this but have to admit the one from China I purchased on eBay for cheap did not last, the plastic crumbled after a while. There might be alternatives somewhere in alloy, though haven’t come across any recently. Perhaps someone else here might know where to find them? Anyway, really appreciate having my BT40S mounted in a fixed position on my SWB ‘bent, addresses that “wandering/bouncing ball of light” you mentioned. Will have to fabricate a long reaching mount to do the same thing on my newer LWB recumbent.

    Will take the liberty then of sending you a Holographic Orange Mylar Reflector Shield for your SD05, Garry. That way you can test out the combo for me before I pull the trigger on that Sofirn for myself.

    EDIT: Ooh, just saw where the SD05 has exactly the same head diameter as the SP33V3. So when mine get here tomorrow I can fashion reflectors directly from them that will fit both our models. Hey Mole, I can make one for your flashlight too if you’d like.

  186. #186
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    You're very generous Andy. Sure, I'll test out the reflector shield. I just don't know how many more riding days I'll have in my area before we're under snow for months. I don't like doing light comparisons / beamshots will lots of snow around.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  187. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Hey Mole, I can make one for your flashlight too if you’d like.
    Thank You!!! I appreciate the offer but I think I good for the moment with the beam transformation I get using the Action-LED-Lights wide angle lens cover. It fixes the issues I have with the beam pattern (smooths coverage out, widens main beam, and adds needed light around the front wheel). Fingers crossed you get your lights tomorrow.
    Mole

    Before .................................................. .................................................. ..After transformation.
    2020 cheap lights thread-002-2-.jpg 2020 cheap lights thread-004.jpg
    Last edited by MRMOLE; 01-11-2020 at 03:28 PM.

  188. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    I don't like doing light comparisons / beamshots will lots of snow around.

    -Garry
    Moi non plus. But ya godda admit, snow on the ground sure makes the beams looks brighter!

    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    ... the beam transformation I get using the Action-LED-Lights wide angle lens cover. It fixes the issues I have with the beam pattern (smooths coverage out, widens main beam, and adds needed light around the front wheel).
    Mole
    Yeah Mole those lenses sure work great on your Sofirn SP33V3.0 —have you filed them down yet to fit inside the bezel? Color isn’t bad at all either, a big step up from the V2 with the obvious blue tint.

    Oh well, one less guinea pig for me.
    Last edited by andychrist; 01-09-2020 at 07:40 PM.

  189. #189
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    Hey, from their specs alone, I was able to cobble together some new reflectors that should fit the Sofirns.

    New Improved Reversible Reflector Shields for CW or NW/WW Fits 37.5mm Diameter Bezel (Sofirn SP33V.3 &SD05) by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    They’re reversible so can be used either to neutralize bluish tints from CW lights or simply to improve the beam on NW/WW lights that need no color correction. Attach to bezel with heat conducting aluminum tape.

    New Improved Reversible Reflector Shields for CW or NW/WW Fits 37.5mm Diameter Bezel (Sofirn SP33V.3 &SD05) by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    Will be updating with versions for other lamps and perhaps beam shots if the weather permits over on the DIY forum:

    https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-d...l#post14509037

  190. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    the beam transformation I get using the Action-LED-Lights wide angle lens cover. It fixes the issues I have with the beam pattern (smooths coverage out, widens main beam, and adds needed light around the front wheel).
    Mole

    Click image for larger version. 

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    But Mole, why settle for that ho-hum elliptical beam when you could be rocking this awesome Spectral Squid™?

    “Spectral Squid” Magicshine MJ808 Clone CREE XM-L2 NW Action-Led Wide Angle Lens Holographic Orange Mylar Reflector Shield by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    C’mon, you know you want it.


  191. #191
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    Sofirns came in

    And I wasted no time applying d-c-fix Milky Self-Adhesive Film to the lenses and further desecrating their bodies with my Holographic Orange Mylar Epileptical Reflector Shields. Which I must say worked like a charm smoothing the beam and eliminating CREE rainbow, compares now to TIR lenses only with more defined cutoff. Color temperature a lot cooler than it actually appears, if that makes any sense. Since there are no blue artifacts left with the diffuser the light just seems bright and clean. But made a red marker look absolutely magenta.

    Interestingly, the default mode is ramping aka stepless dimming, you have to click four times after connecting the battery to enter preset mode. Heads really heat up on Turbo but flashlights didn’t step down while I was testing them for around a quarter of an hour. Charged to full about two hours.

    Center of gravity is just below the head where the inset textured grip starts, which makes the SP33 an ideal candidate for mounting on a bike. Feel way heavier than I’d anticipated though, not sure whether the cheap plastic swivel clamps currently hosting the relatively puny SP40 and SC31B will hold up under their weight.

    Sofirn SP33V3.0 OP Reflector d-c-fix Milky Privacy Film Holographic Orange Mylar Reflector Shield by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    Sofirn SP33V3.0 OP Reflector d-c-fix Milky Privacy Film Holographic Orange Mylar Reflector Shield by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    Sofirn SP33V3.0 OP Reflector d-c-fix Milky Privacy Film Holographic Orange Mylar Reflector Shield by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    Sofirn SP33V3.0 OP Reflector d-c-fix Milky Privacy Film Holographic Orange Mylar Reflector Shield by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    Sofirn SP33V3.0 OP Reflector d-c-fix Milky Privacy Film Holographic Orange Mylar Reflector Shield by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    Outdoor beam shots to come...

  192. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    But Mole, why settle for that ho-hum elliptical beam when you could be rocking this awesome Spectral Squid™?

    “Spectral Squid” Magicshine MJ808 Clone CREE XM-L2 NW Action-Led Wide Angle Lens Holographic Orange Mylar Reflector Shield by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    C’mon, you know you want it.

    Definitely curious how the beam ends up looking with the SP33V3. Nice to see your having so much fun with this!!!
    Mole

  193. #193
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    Andy is like a kid in a candy store with his new lights!

    -Garry

  194. #194
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    Stratus XPC 360º Swivel Clamps 2x Sofrin SP33 V3.0 d-c-fix Milky Self Adhesive Film Holographic Orange Epileptical Reflector Shields Turbo by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    Running the SP33V3s on Turbo keeps the batteries so nice and warm, they can be recharged soon after coming in from the cold. Good thing too because the Sofirn 26650 cells were both down to around 3.8V after only a few minutes gathering beam shots, grrr. Oh well, don’t really need to run them that bright, they’re just for low beams in conjunction with either a head lamp or bar lights. Anyway was impressed by their throw, even after being modded with that d-c-fix. Guess the reflectors do add to overall efficiency, despite their Orange Mylar setting my bike ablaze.

  195. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Oh well, don’t really need to run them that bright, they’re just for low beams in conjunction with either a head lamp or bar lights.
    I agree, 7000 lumen low beams is a bit much!
    Mole

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    Funny though my KD BL70S on High illuminates the scene all alone much better than the two Sofirns do together on their equivalent Turbos. Guess it has the advantage of being all the way up on the bars rather than down there on the fork and featuring a considerably larger [internal] reflector. (Same diffusing film and scaled external reflector, but 4000K on the KD.)

    Might add that in correcting for the cold color temperature of the SP33V3 my iPad’s camera ended up exaggerating the orange tint of the arc in front of my bike, which is [obviously!] light that has bounced from inside the Holographic Mylar Epilepticals and otherwise would have been wasted up in the tree tops. This pic in landscape mode illustrates the redistribution to the periphery ever so slightly better than the one in portrait; just wasn’t quite the vertical room in the frame to capture all the illuminated area right behind the front wheel (okay I’m not the world’s most competent photographer either. )

    Stratus XPC 360º Swivel Clamps 2x Sofrin SP33 V3.0 d-c-fix Milky Self Adhesive Film Holographic Orange Epileptical Reflector Shields Turbo by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    BTW was able to unscrew the bezels without a strap wrench or any special tool, just spanned the notches with the handle of a bamboo spatula and voila. d-c-fix was a cinch to apply to the glass cover lenses, didn’t leave any bubbles the way it tends to do over larger surfaces. Also helps to trim using a nail scissors, account of the curved blade.

    Oh and Garry, your Epilepticals are in the mail.

  197. #197
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    Thanks Andy! About those pics, I'm not sure if it's the camera, the lights being mounted really low, or what, but I expected those lights to look brighter.

    -Garry

  198. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Thanks Andy! About those pics, I'm not sure if it's the camera, the lights being mounted really low, or what, but I expected those lights to look brighter.
    I think it must be the low mounting and diffuser film causing that. The area right in front of the wheel is super bright and washed out. I think getting rid of the diffuser film would go a long way to fix that. Wonder what it would be like on singletrack with vegetation alongside?
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  199. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Thanks Andy! About those pics, I'm not sure if it's the camera, the lights being mounted really low, or what, but I expected those lights to look brighter.

    -Garry
    Both the low mounting points that cause the beams to glance obliquely off the ground as well as the camera that automatically adjusts for exposure, Garry. And I still had to set the focal points manually in a lot of pics to counteract glare. But like I mentioned the KD BL70s which on its highest level supposedly puts out a only a couple hundred lumens more than does the SP33 on Turbo eclipsed them both. Possibly due to its superior vantage point and because of its humongous reflector; also it’s aimed further up for distance. Doesn’t work so well for close range because it would just light up the cockpit — that’s one of the reasons for mounting the SP33 to the fork.

    RANS STRATUS XPC KDLITKER BL70S Sofirns SP33V3.0 d-c-fix Milky Diffusing Films Holographic Orange Epileptical Reflecting Shields by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    Also as you can see from the photo below, the camera doesn’t really capture much increase in brightness with the BL70S on at the same time as the Sofirns because of that auto exposure thingy.

    RANS STRATUS XPC KDLITKER BL70S Sofirns SP33V3.0 d-c-fix Milky Diffusing Films Holographic Orange Epileptical Reflecting Shields by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    Edit: Pic taken with both KD and Sofrin lights set to Mid level.
    Last edited by andychrist; 01-11-2020 at 07:26 PM.

  200. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    I think it must be the low mounting and diffuser film causing that. The area right in front of the wheel is super bright and washed out. I think getting rid of the diffuser film would go a long way to fix that. Wonder what it would be like on singletrack with vegetation alongside?
    I’m sure it’s the low mounting, not the diffusing film without which the beam is just awful. Have exactly the same combo on the BL70s mounted to the bars and its a winner. Just that the camera can’t correct for multiple exposures at once so the brightest area appears full of glare. In actuality the beams from the Sofirns were neither blinding nor all that very orange in front of and around the front wheel. And of course the ratcheting swivel clamps allow the flashlights to be directed further up for greater distance, as well as turned either more outward or inner depending on how broad/narrow a field of illumination is desired.

    Sufferin’ Sofirns SP33V3 Holographic Orange Mylar Epileptical Reflector Shields 360º Swivel Clamps by andyXchrist, on Flickr
    Sufferin’ Sofirns SP33V3 Holographic Orange Mylar Epileptical Reflector Shields 360º Swivel Clamps by andyXchrist, on Flickr

    Am sure a lot of you are wondering why not just mount the clamps above the brake bosses. Reason’s that (as mentioned a while ago) a full fairing is slated to go on the front and it’ll hang down a few inches below them.

    Will have to wait for Spring to find any living vegetation around here I’m afraid, Vanc

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