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  1. #1
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    2016 Gemini lights?

    Has anyone tried the new Gemini lights? I'm particularly interested in the new Titan, 4000 lumen, looks like three duos stuck together. The prices are very reasonable and they now have wireless remotes. Thanks

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    The Titan looks very good for the price, even with the 10400mah battery. I'm only disappointed there is no neutral white LED option.

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    Although I don't find issues with 6000K tints found on the lights I use or the XM-L2 U4 leds in the new Gemini products as I don't find them washing out all the detail on the trails as some do. If not to yellow once back on my bike I will have to see if I can get my hands on a neutral white light. At this point I may not know what I'm missing until I try it. I read a post somewhere where Lupine is offering neutral white led boards for Betty's only at 4900K/or 5000K. Maybe time to switch my led boards.

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    Crazy. Really just 3 Duos together. I wonder if there would be any interference issues with some stems? I like the new Xera. The wireless remotes are sweet.

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    To bad the Xera isn't included in the wireless remote family as it is a good helmet light. I was wondering the same thing about stem clearance with the Titan,, may be an issue with some?

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    ^^^Agree..would be nice.

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    Remote switches (except Xera), better heat-sinking light bodies, new emitters for more poser - all great upgrades to the Gemini line. Also encouraging are the Xera's MTBR lumen/lux test #'s, hopefully the new Duo and Olympia will also more accurately match their power claims. Published runtime claims confusing though, Xera and Duo #'s match previous versions while the Olympia looks to have a considerable reduction in runtime out of its battery options. Looking forward to seeing MTBR's tests on these units.
    Mole

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    Just a guess here, but since last years (claimed 2100 lumen) Olympia fell terribly short on output (1478 lumens actual) if I'm remembering correctly,,, the much shorter runtimes on the 2016 version hopefully is do to a major bump in output which should be north of 2000 if keeping on par with the Xera.

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    Gloworm has their work cut out for them. They're going to have to develop wireless remotes and slash their prices to compete. On the other hand, however, they do have batteries with fuel gauges, the option of neutral white emitters, and a choice of lenses. If Gemini were to offer neutral white emitters it'd be an easy decision.

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    Would someone be so nice to post a link for this lights? TY

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius9 View Post
    Would someone be so nice to post a link for this lights? TY
    Gemini-lights.com/

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    thanks

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Crazy. Really just 3 Duos together. I wonder if there would be any interference issues with some stems? I like the new Xera. The wireless remotes are sweet.

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    Couldnt you use a Magishine Y cable adaptor and run 2 Duo's with a good 6 cell ?
    Hit the trails with your bike and get freaky. :cornut:

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    Have they done any coupon codes lately?
    "It looks flexy"

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    No but there is a warehouse sale currently going on and some of the prev. gen. Geminis are on sale.

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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    Just a guess here, but since last years (claimed 2100 lumen) Olympia fell terribly short on output (1478 lumens actual) if I'm remembering correctly,,, the much shorter runtimes on the 2016 version hopefully is do to a major bump in output which should be north of 2000 if keeping on par with the Xera.
    Even though the Olympia and even the Duo fell short In lumens according to mtbr , those two combined does make a killer light setup .
    Hit the trails with your bike and get freaky. :cornut:

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    Quote Originally Posted by C.M.S View Post
    Even though the Olympia and even the Duo fell short In lumens according to mtbr , those two combined does make a killer light setup .
    I would have to agree with that,,,,, as I have a Duo/Xera backup set up and it is very nice!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    I would have to agree with that,,,,, as I have a Duo/Xera backup set up and it is very nice!!
    I might be missing out on the GW X2 NW option , Duo/Olympia may become a backup set .
    Hit the trails with your bike and get freaky. :cornut:

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    Quote Originally Posted by C.M.S View Post
    I might be missing out on the GW X2 NW option , Duo/Olympia may become a backup set .
    That's one hell of a back up set lol. I just got confirmation from Dan at Gretna bikes that there are 4900K led boards for my Betty-R's as well as the 2016 Piko. A bit of a delay getting them right now as their swamped just dealing with the new 2016 line up and fulfilling orders. So still sitting in Germany.

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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    That's one hell of a back up set lol. I just got confirmation from Dan at Gretna bikes that there are 4900K led boards for my Betty-R's as well as the 2016 Piko. A bit of a delay getting them right now as their swamped just dealing with the new 2016 line up and fulfilling orders. So still sitting in Germany.
    Dang , you turn dirt into glass with the betty's lol
    Hit the trails with your bike and get freaky. :cornut:

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    That's funny, I just inquired with Dan about the 4900K boards for the Betty R as well. I'm currently running a Gloworm X2 with NW emitters (with 2 wide-angle lenses) on my bar so it'll be nice to have a matching tint on my helmet-mounted R.

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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    That's one hell of a back up set lol. I just got confirmation from Dan at Gretna bikes that there are 4900K led boards for my Betty-R's as well as the 2016 Piko. A bit of a delay getting them right now as their swamped just dealing with the new 2016 line up and fulfilling orders. So still sitting in Germany.
    Yeah, I was reading about that on their website. What I fail to understand is "WHY?..." they decided not to include a "neutral LED" option for the Wilma-R! I might have been willing to buy a Wilma-R with neutral emitters. The Betty R is more than I need and a lot more money. Would of been nice to have a kick-ass lamp on the helmet with neutral LED and wireless remote.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Yeah, I was reading about that on their website. What I fail to understand is "WHY?..." they decided not to include a "neutral LED" option for the Wilma-R! I might have been willing to buy a Wilma-R with neutral emitters. The Betty R is more than I need and a lot more money. Would of been nice to have a kick-ass lamp on the helmet with neutral LED and wireless remote.
    I couldn't agree more. The only reason I'm running Betty-R's is that at that time wireless remote wasn't available in the Wilma line either. I don't get it, Dan said 2016 Piko and Betty-R's have the option. Just a guess her but as the demand increases for neutral emitters one would hope Lupine would include the Wilma. I'd really be pressing for those 4900K boards if I was on the bike these days. I really would like to see the difference for myself.

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    I'm close to pulling the trigger on either the GW X2 or the Gemini Duo. I'm currently running two MJ-808 clones, one on helmet, one on the bar. Either the X2 or Duo is going to be a pleasant upgrade, but a couple of questions for some of you that are definitely WAY more knowledgable and probably discerning about lights than me:

    Is the NW really that much of a game changer? I've seen some comparisons and I can see the difference, but wondering how it translates to actual riding? Worth the $25 upgrade? (from action-led)

    Looks like the new Gemini Duo uses U4 bins is this going even farther from neutral white than the U2 in the last version?

    The price difference b/t the two is ~$50 or $75 including the swap to the NW on the X2. It seems like the GW is a little more refined overall, but are the differences really that important?

    Thanks

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    NW is not a game changer IMHO.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeynets View Post
    I'm close to pulling the trigger on either the GW X2 or the Gemini Duo. I'm currently running two MJ-808 clones, one on helmet, one on the bar. Either the X2 or Duo is going to be a pleasant upgrade, but a couple of questions for some of you that are definitely WAY more knowledgable and probably discerning about lights than me:

    Is the NW really that much of a game changer? I've seen some comparisons and I can see the difference, but wondering how it translates to actual riding? Worth the $25 upgrade? (from action-led)

    Looks like the new Gemini Duo uses U4 bins is this going even farther from neutral white than the U2 in the last version?

    The price difference b/t the two is ~$50 or $75 including the swap to the NW on the X2. It seems like the GW is a little more refined overall, but are the differences really that important?

    Thanks
    Although I'm curious to see the difference on the trails myself, I cant say I have been disappointed with the 6000K emitters I'm using now. Hopefully I can find someone locally in the Tuesday night ride at some point who is using NW before committing to a $300 board change.

    It's a subjective subject and you will be paying double the price for the NW X-2 over the new Duo with wireless remote to find out. I think like me you have to try for yourself to make that call. It wasn't long ago many of us were riding with P-4 equipped lamp heads which were almost as blue tinted as HID. We managed!!

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    I'm really curious about the NW as well. I have not even seen side by side screen shots or anything. I was thinking my Gloworms were already fairly warm over what most of the local riders are running.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ozzy43 View Post
    I'm really curious about the NW as well. I have not even seen side by side screen shots or anything. I was thinking my Gloworms were already fairly warm over what most of the local riders are running.
    Beamshots and videos will never reveal the advantage of NW emitters IMO. NW emitters don't make your light work better (1500 CW lumens measures the same as 1500 NW lumens), they allow your eyes to work better. CW emitters appear more powerful because they produce more glare. The harsher (not more powerful) CW light makes your pupils constrict more (for any given lumen amount) than NW would, reducing your vision performance. For the last few years I've run a Gemini Olympia as my bar light and had come to the conclusion that my vision was actually reduced at anything over 80% power on that light. I can run my BT21 or BT70 with NW emitters (which makes more measured lux) at full power with none of the reduced vision issues (mainly washing out trail irregularities) I notice on the Olympia at 100%. So looking at beamshots (and running a mix of NW and CW) eliminates the NW emitter advantage and again IMO not an accurate way of comparing the two emitter tints. I imagine NW emitters are like most things in that the degree of advantage depends on your eyes, riding environment, riding style and speed - I definitely think it's worthwhile (I also own an X2 & XS and will be having them changed to NW soon).
    Mole

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    I've complained about poor night vision for a while now and do find even around the house in winter months I need more light than my younger wife. But also on the trails,,,, I've got lots of output and it works for me, but based on how you describe how the eyes react to cool white vs NW it makes sense to me. If the light is still as bright in lux but distributed in a warmer tint yes maybe the pupils wont close up as much thus better perception on detail in the lighted area.

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    In general I also have diminished night vision. Additionally, I don't know if this factors in to emitter tint at all, but I am really adversely affected by super bright car headlights which always seem to be of the cool white variety. Again, I don't know if it's simply the brightness and the color is just coincidental or there's a connection. Maybe some of you know. . .

    But yeah, the value of the new Gemini lights really seems to be a strong argument for them over the Gloworms especially if the NW emitters aren't that big of a deal. I realize it's subjective though and for some people that'll sway them towards the Gloworms.

    I'm really torn but starting to lean towards the Duo.

  31. #31
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    I have two sets of the Gemini Duo and Olympia lights. My old ones are 1200 and 1800 lumens. Loved the lights enough that I bought another set to share with the family. I do like the remote idea. Looking forward to trying them out. As it is now they are fully charged and ready for action. I was never lacking for light on the old set so imagine the new ones will be equally as bright in the trail.

  32. #32
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    We'll have them in stock the middle of next week. I'm anxious to do some testing on them and how they have improved. Particularly in how they handle over heating. I'll post results here as soon as I have them. I'll be doing beam patterns and then output vs time with no air movement. I'll probably retest the old ones for comparison.
    Still a few of the older ones left at sale prices. (they've just been reduced even farther)
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    I did forget to ask about the thermal? That was one area Gemini was lacking in the past as when they stepped down, they really stepped down to the low setting. I prefer a more controlled gradual step down system like the GloWorm products. Please confirm when you have a chance if thermal has improved.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    We'll have them in stock the middle of next week. I'm anxious to do some testing on them and how they have improved. Particularly in how they handle over heating. I'll post results here as soon as I have them. I'll be doing beam patterns and then output vs time with no air movement. I'll probably retest the old ones for comparison.
    Still a few of the older ones left at sale prices. (they've just been reduced even farther)
    I look forward to seeing how they test out. I noticed all the light-heads weigh a little more so that should help with the heat. If they still get hot here's the solution I'm currently using that makes my Gemini lights work fine in desert ride temps. (+100).
    Mole

    2016 Gemini lights?-004.jpg

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius9 View Post
    Would someone be so nice to post a link for this lights? TY
    Gemini Lights ? Action-LED-Lights
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    Hey Jim what is the story with the Titan light? I've been waiting for you to post it so I can order one.

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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    I did forget to ask about the thermal? That was one area Gemini was lacking in the past as when they stepped down, they really stepped down to the low setting. I prefer a more controlled gradual step down system like the GloWorm products. Please confirm when you have a chance if thermal has improved.
    The new Xera, Duo, Olympia and Xera Flashlight are in stock. That flashlight is a super little light. Same beam and output of the standard Xera and so small.
    I have finish testing beam patterns and thermal performance. I'll get the pattern test up tomorrow. Thermal is about the same as previous models. In still air they slowly drop for the first few minutes but then suddenly drop to 10%. When they cool off they switch back to 100% but then cycle up and down until you get some air moving over them. With the increased surface area this should be no problem if you have any speed at all. But it's winter here so a real world test will be hard until summer.
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  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ozzy43 View Post
    Hey Jim what is the story with the Titan light? I've been waiting for you to post it so I can order one.
    Not yet available. I have some on order but don't have a firm ship date.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    The new Xera, Duo, Olympia and Xera Flashlight are in stock. That flashlight is a super little light. Same beam and output of the standard Xera and so small.
    I have finish testing beam patterns and thermal performance. I'll get the pattern test up tomorrow. Thermal is about the same as previous models. In still air they slowly drop for the first few minutes but then suddenly drop to 10%. When they cool off they switch back to 100% but then cycle up and down until you get some air moving over them. With the increased surface area this should be no problem if you have any speed at all. But it's winter here so a real world test will be hard until summer.
    First off,,, thank you for testing and sharing your results. For those of us in cold winter area's where poor thermal design isn't as much of a concern do to the temperatures, it will be an issue in the southern states or any warm winter demographic with even higher outputs this year.

    Although Gemini has gotten very aggressive in pricing with more features, I'm a little disappointed their still behind the competition in thermal features. Even the MS products this year have gradual step down. Dropping down to 10% is a joke and would be a deal breaker for me if I lived in a warmer area. Hopefully this will be corrected next year.

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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    First off,,, thank you for testing and sharing your results. For those of us in cold winter area's where poor thermal design isn't as much of a concern do to the temperatures, it will be an issue in the southern states or any warm winter demographic with even higher outputs this year.

    Although Gemini has gotten very aggressive in pricing with more features, I'm a little disappointed their still behind the competition in thermal features. Even the MS products this year have gradual step down. Dropping down to 10% is a joke and would be a deal breaker for me if I lived in a warmer area. Hopefully this will be corrected next year.
    I'm not trolling when I say this, just honestly asking. Is a 10% drop really that bad? I read somewhere in an mtbr light thread that 7% drop is pretty standard. Maybe that was info was from several years ago and not pertinent any more. Maybe 3% more than average or standard is a big deviation again, I really don't know.

    Just looking for a little more clarity or context for this comment.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeynets View Post
    I'm not trolling when I say this, just honestly asking. Is a 10% drop really that bad? I read somewhere in an mtbr light thread that 7% drop is pretty standard. Maybe that was info was from several years ago and not pertinent any more. Maybe 3% more than average or standard is a big deviation again, I really don't know.

    Just looking for a little more clarity or context for this comment.
    No it's not bad at all if that was the case. It's a drop TO 10% output,,,,, not a 10% drop in output,,,,, pretty much unusable

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    Gotcha. That is significant. Now I'm curious to see if the 2016 lights have that issue as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeynets View Post
    Gotcha. That is significant. Now I'm curious to see if the 2016 lights have that issue as well.
    Jim at Action was saying the 2016's thermal is pretty much the same as the previous years model,, I would say it's more like about 20% but still to low. So room for improvement.

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    I live in the Bay Area so it's never very cold or hot, at least at night. I don't think the temps here are anything for me to be concerned about. I ride with someone who has an older Duo and he never has had a problem with it either. Still, seems like something that should be addressed.

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    Just ride faster.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeynets View Post
    I live in the Bay Area so it's never very cold or hot, at least at night. I don't think the temps here are anything for me to be concerned about. I ride with someone who has an older Duo and he never has had a problem with it either. Still, seems like something that should be addressed.
    It's something that was never an issue for anyone that I've heard of unless they live in Arizona and were riding slow on a hot summer night. Now that the the lights have more surface area it should be even less of a problem.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    It's something that was never an issue for anyone that I've heard of unless they live in Arizona and were riding slow on a hot summer night. Now that the the lights have more surface area it should be even less of a problem.
    The lights do have a touch more surface area so that will help but they also have a big jump in output as the 2016 Xera has shown. The old one was 697lument Vs 935, so very substantial and will produce even more heat.

    That been said as you mentioned, where I live I have had no issues with step down either as I don't climb on the high setting and most don't.

  48. #48
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    Beam testing

    Ok, I have the beam pattern test done for the new lights. I tested one of the older lights to compare it to last years test and apparently something has changed as my results came in lower. So I'll retest the older lights so we can have an accurate comparison and test the newest Gloworm lights too. In the future I'll have to come up with a way to calibrate my test setup so the results are consistent. I'll post these new test asap.

    2016 Gemini lights?-2016-gemini-series-beamtest.png
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    [QUOTE=Action LED Lights;12319741]Ok, I have the beam pattern test done for the new lights. I tested one of the older lights to compare it to last years test and apparently something has changed as my results came in lower. So I'll retest the older lights so we can have an accurate comparison and test the newest Gloworm lights too. In the future I'll have to come up with a way to calibrate my test setup so the results are consistent. I'll post these new test asap.

    Hi Jim,
    Looks like something has definitely corrupted the data for the new light too. Doubtful the Xera out powers the Duo & Olympia in throw (which it should) and beam width (which it definitely shouldn't) or that the Olympia is weaker everywhere than the other two lights. Looking forward to the retest!
    Mole

  50. #50
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    [QUOTE=MRMOLE;12319969]
    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    Ok, I have the beam pattern test done for the new lights. I tested one of the older lights to compare it to last years test and apparently something has changed as my results came in lower. So I'll retest the older lights so we can have an accurate comparison and test the newest Gloworm lights too. In the future I'll have to come up with a way to calibrate my test setup so the results are consistent. I'll post these new test asap.

    Hi Jim,
    Looks like something has definitely corrupted the data for the new light too. Doubtful the Xera out powers the Duo & Olympia in throw (which it should) and beam width (which it definitely shouldn't) or that the Olympia is weaker everywhere than the other two lights. Looking forward to the retest!
    Mole
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    [QUOTE=Action LED Lights;12320074]
    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post

    Look at the curve colors, not the position in the legend.
    Sorry, my mistake. My bad eyes got me on the colors but....... What happened to the Xera's throw #'s? Looking at your legend correctly the Olympia and Duo show some good gains (especially since you think your calibration is giving low #s) but the Xera's graph is far weaker than the previous model (not what I expected considering MTBR had measured significant lumen gains).
    Mole

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    [quote=mrmole;12320170]
    Quote Originally Posted by action led lights View Post

    sorry, my mistake. My bad eyes got me on the colors but....... What happened to the xera's throw #'s? Looking at your legend correctly the olympia and duo show some good gains (especially since you think your calibration is giving low #s) but the xera's graph is far weaker than the previous model (not what i expected considering mtbr had measured significant lumen gains).
    Mole
    The Xera now shares optics with the Duo. It's my experience that smaller optics have a harder time focusing the light into a spot. So it would seem the Xera has less throw even though it has more lumens. I hope to get the old one retested this weekend and will confirm that.
    Jim Harger
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    [QUOTE=Action LED Lights;12322635]
    Quote Originally Posted by mrmole View Post

    The Xera now shares optics with the Duo. It's my experience that smaller optics have a harder time focusing the light into a spot. So it would seem the Xera has less throw even though it has more lumens. I hope to get the old one retested this weekend and will confirm that.

    Will the beam pattern be the same for the Xera light and Xera flashlight? Does the flashlight use an optic as well?

  54. #54
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    [QUOTE=mikeynets;12322674]
    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post


    Will the beam pattern be the same for the Xera light and Xera flashlight? Does the flashlight use an optic as well?
    Yes, the Xera Flashlight uses the same optic and LED as the Xera
    Jim Harger
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  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    ^This^
    Hit the trails with your bike and get freaky. :cornut:

  56. #56
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    [QUOTE=Action LED Lights;12322635]
    Quote Originally Posted by mrmole View Post

    The Xera now shares optics with the Duo. It's my experience that smaller optics have a harder time focusing the light into a spot. So it would seem the Xera has less throw even though it has more lumens. I hope to get the old one retested this weekend and will confirm that.
    Ok, I retested the older Xera this afternoon. Both with the standard optic and with the included spot optic. Here are the resulting graphs.

    2016 Gemini lights?-2016-xera.jpg2016 Gemini lights?-2015-xera.jpg

    As expected, the new optic produces a much wider beam with the resulting lower peak intensity (throw)
    The two lines on the 2015 graph show what seems to be a common mistake in designing optics. The standard optic has a frosted front surface. On a microscopic scale, a frosted surface is made up of random surfaces at random angles. Some of those surfaces will deflect the light to the side as intended. But some of them will reflect a portion of the light back into the optic and out the side walls to be absorbed into the body of the light. As you can see the standard optic (red curve) only serves to reduce the amount of light coming out the front.

    Another thing to remember when comparing graph is that if you increase the beam angle from 10˚(5˚) to 20˚the amount of area you are lighting is approximately 4 times as large. So if the light is evenly distributed the intensity is 1/4. So the wider portions of the graph represent a lot more lumens.
    Jim Harger
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  57. #57
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    Gemini lights have always been on my wish list for testing.along with gloworm but every year they ignore my advances like the pretty girl at a disco.


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  58. #58
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    Maybe if you try purchasing one they wont say NO!!!

  59. #59
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    Yeah but I'm not going to do that.


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  60. #60
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    Say what, they dont give free lights, darn, I hate them

  61. #61
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    For the price ive been debating on getting a duo head to add to my collection, till I look at my collection and the pile that doesn't get used (and the other pile that does)

  62. #62
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    Yay! 2016 Gemini lights?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1449597392.290475.jpg

  63. #63
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    Have you had a chance that to run it yet... any beam shots?

  64. #64
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    2016 Gemini lights?

    Just picked it up. I will not be able to run it in a couple of days. Plus, it's rainy and foggy outside so it will not give any clear answers.

  65. #65
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    Woah!
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  66. #66
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    Just received an Olympia setup for test/review, and I'm impressed with the fit/finish.
    GRAVELBIKE.COM - ride everything

  67. #67
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    Not sure if this is new but also took delivery of the 8-cell 10400mAh battery. Very slim looking 2016 Gemini lights?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1449601712.317518.jpg

  68. #68
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    It seems to be "bare" battery. Is there some outer shell/pouch/mounting? too?

  69. #69
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    There is 2016 Gemini lights?-imageuploadedbytapatalk1449602592.571348.jpg

  70. #70
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    OMFG, that light looks insane lol. Liking the use of a stick pack instead of bricks.

  71. #71
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    So a 2015 duo with 4 cell on sale for $150? or a 2016 duo with 2 cell for $150?
    Half the run time, which is prob. fine for me. If I am going out for 3 hours I will run it at 50%
    I plan on bar mounting so the remote for 2016 is not a huge deal. I run a minewt 350 on my helmet.
    What am I missing?
    Only boring people get bored.

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    OMFG, that light looks insane lol. Liking the use of a stick pack instead of bricks.
    From just pointing this one out of the porch it looks amazing. Great spread and depth. Cannot capture it on camera because of fog/rain but very very promising indeed.

  73. #73
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    2016 Gemini lights?

    Quote Originally Posted by jh_on_the_cape View Post
    So a 2015 duo with 4 cell on sale for $150? or a 2016 duo with 2 cell for $150?
    Half the run time, which is prob. fine for me. If I am going out for 3 hours I will run it at 50%
    I plan on bar mounting so the remote for 2016 is not a huge deal. I run a minewt 350 on my helmet.
    What am I missing?
    FWIW I have the 2016 duo with the remote. Very handy, especially if you do any kind of commuting.

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trond View Post
    There is
    Nice pack!

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by jh_on_the_cape View Post
    So a 2015 duo with 4 cell on sale for $150? or a 2016 duo with 2 cell for $150?
    Half the run time, which is prob. fine for me. If I am going out for 3 hours I will run it at 50%
    I plan on bar mounting so the remote for 2016 is not a huge deal. I run a minewt 350 on my helmet.
    What am I missing?
    The 2016 Duo is using XM-L2 U-4 leds which will be brighter than the 2015's. 2015 Duo was measured at 1208 actual lumens where the new Duo will be close to 1500. If you want more runtime on the 2016 Duo Gemini or action only charge an extra $30 for a larger high end battery pack.

  76. #76
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    Just fyi, the bin change of emitters is less than 10% output increase. Unless they have to driver pushing more output to the emitters, its going to be 100-150 more lumens than the 2015 model when tested in a sphere.

    Most lights dont account for variance in emitter outputs or optics losses. So new version will probably come it at around 1350-1400 lumens.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Just fyi, the bin change of emitters is less than 10% output increase. Unless they have to driver pushing more output to the emitters, its going to be 100-150 more lumens than the 2015 model when tested in a sphere.

    Most lights dont account for variance in emitter outputs or optics losses. So new version will probably come it at around 1350-1400 lumens.
    Yes I agree! I'm basing my estimate on the improvement of this years Xera which was pretty much bang on Gemini's claim for the 2016 line up and a huge jump in output over last years version. Gemini this year claim ALL their line up should be very close to claimed so this leads me to believe there has been some tweaking to the drivers.

  78. #78
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    FYI, The Titan will be here in a week or two.
    Jim Harger
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  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    FYI, The Titan will be here in a week or two.
    Just looked through the last 3-4 pages in this thread. Some very impressive stuff. Damn, can't tell you how much I wish some of these ( particularly the 2016 Olympia ) were available with "Neutral LED's". ( Santa, can you tell the elf's to get some neutral LED's in )

    An Olympia with neutral LED's would >

  80. #80
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    ^^^Has anyone just emailed Gemini directly regarding the NW emitter question and pointed out the apparently overwhelming support for these on the boards?
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

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  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    ^^^Has anyone just emailed Gemini directly regarding the NW emitter question and pointed out the apparently overwhelming support for these on the boards?
    Just did. We'll see what happens.
    Jim Harger
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  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    Just did. We'll see what happens.
    Did as well!!

  83. #83
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    I have two Duo and Olympia. One set is this yrs and the others are from 2013. Both are great. The new ones are definitely brighter and I love the remote. I can operate both lights from it. Have Duo on my helmet and the Olympia on my bars. Great combo. I was happy with my first set. Even happier with the new ones.

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdsyver View Post
    I have two Duo and Olympia. One set is this yrs and the others are from 2013. Both are great. The new ones are definitely brighter and I love the remote. I can operate both lights from it. Have Duo on my helmet and the Olympia on my bars. Great combo. I was happy with my first set. Even happier with the new ones.
    With you running both lamp heads off one remote,,,,, are they both responding quickly so as to not go out of sequence? With my Lupines, I find my helmet light responds a millisecond slower than the bar light at times putting them out of sequence.

  85. #85
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    That sounds like a design flaw with lupine, guessing they use stepless mode control instead of percentage of output based steps. Iirc Gemini doesn't use linear control, it uses steps, so even a delay wont cause them to fall out of sync as a push of the button simply goes to next step. That's the downfall of all the fancy tech being stuffed into bike lights, makes them far more of a headache than their worth.

  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    ^^^Has anyone just emailed Gemini directly regarding the NW emitter question and pointed out the apparently overwhelming support for these on the boards?
    So Chris from Gemini emailed me. The next batch of leds they order after their cool white leds are used up will be neutral white.

  87. #87
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    ^^^and everyone loses their minds....

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  88. #88
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    Love the 2016 Duo! Having the switch within thumb distance and the light on my helmet is just incredible. Getting great runtime with the 2 cell pack and I think the ease of the wireless remote helps that. It is effortless to manage your light output with climbing and descending on singletrack with the wireless remote. Very tempted to add am Olympia or Titan to the bars.

    Jim, will the Titan be sold as lighthead only?

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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    With you running both lamp heads off one remote,,,,, are they both responding quickly so as to not go out of sequence? With my Lupines, I find my helmet light responds a millisecond slower than the bar light at times putting them out of sequence.
    In, Which Lupines are you running? Looking at putting together a bar and helmet set but the out of sequence would drive me bulls__t.

    Anyone know when the Gemini neutral whites will be available?

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamsey View Post
    In, Which Lupines are you running? Looking at putting together a bar and helmet set but the out of sequence would drive me bulls__t.

    Anyone know when the Gemini neutral whites will be available?
    I'm running the first version of Betty-R's (non Bluetooth).

    I spoke to Gemini and as soon as they have used up the XM-L2 U4's they have in stock they will be ordering Neutral leds from Cree on their very next order. Timeline is based on how quickly they sell the first batch.

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by jn35646 View Post
    Getting great runtime with the 2 cell pack and I think the ease of the wireless remote helps that.
    2 hours? When they get the NW emitters I'm getting the Duo. Just trying to figure out if I get the 2 cell or 4.

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeynets View Post
    2 hours? When they get the NW emitters I'm getting the Duo. Just trying to figure out if I get the 2 cell or 4.
    2 hours on high for the 2 cell pack would be a stretch for sure, probably 1.5 hours. The light lasts for 2 hour rides no problem since it is so easy to adjust the output based on need. I find that I use the switch on my bars much like a dropper post...as needed. It really sips battery power on low and that is all you need when climbing...which makes up 2/3 of the riding where I am. Only run on high for descents.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by jn35646 View Post
    2 hours on high for the 2 cell pack would be a stretch for sure, probably 1.5 hours. The light lasts for 2 hour rides no problem since it is so easy to adjust the output based on need. I find that I use the switch on my bars much like a dropper post...as needed. It really sips battery power on low and that is all you need when climbing...which makes up 2/3 of the riding where I am. Only run on high for descents.
    Yeah I guess I should've been clearer. 2 hour ride time while toggling between outputs is what I was looking for. Sounds like it's up to the task!

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeynets View Post
    2 hours? When they get the NW emitters I'm getting the Duo. Just trying to figure out if I get the 2 cell or 4.
    Four cell for sure. Why chance it for the weight of two extra cells? What happens near the end of the battery lifespan when it is only at 70-80% of its new capacity? What happens when it is cold out? Why have a razor-slim margin? For me the only debate is 4 vs 6 cell.

    I really don't see you making two hours on a two-cell, even with changing modes.

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    As for NW, I am not convinced it is so obvious that is the way to go. It may be, but it seems like six of one, half dozen of the other.

    You get less light in exchange for better color quality. It would be a no-brainer if you were going to use the light as a graphic arts professional. But you are illuminating rocks and trees. I don't see anyone complaining that their Porsche, Audi, or BMW does not have 5500 degree color temp or a certain CRI for their headlights.

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsilvers View Post
    Four cell for sure. Why chance it for the weight of two extra cells? What happens near the end of the battery lifespan when it is only at 70-80% of its new capacity? What happens when it is cold out? Why have a razor-slim margin? For me the only debate is 4 vs 6 cell.

    I really don't see you making two hours on a two-cell, even with changing modes.
    I get plenty of runtime with the 2 cell and it is soooo light on my helmet. However, I've used 4 cell packs on my helmet and it only felt cumbersome the moment I put it on my head...heck, I even use a heavy helmet (Bell Super). 4 cell would be a great for peace of mind, totally agree. I just think that with having the remote next to my grips that I dim the light a lot when climbing and that makes the runtime really good. Was out for just about 2 hours the other night and for the first time got the indicator on the back of the Duo to turn amber (50%-25%). Oddly, that was only when running on high as it was still green on medium/low.

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    I would get two cell if I wanted the battery on my helmet. You could have a backup light on the bars.

    I plan to keep my helmet battery in my backpack.

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsilvers View Post
    As for NW, I am not convinced it is so obvious that is the way to go. It may be, but it seems like six of one, half dozen of the other.



    You get less light in exchange for better color quality. It would be a no-brainer if you were going to use the light as a graphic arts professional. But you are illuminating rocks and trees. I don't see anyone complaining that their Porsche, Audi, or BMW does not have 5500 degree color temp or a certain CRI for their headlights.

    Actually was already pointed out the color temp of those cars is 5000k. And most arent after the high cri the few of us light geeks like to play with. All my lights are 3c or 3d tint, have a flashlight that's "high cri". Difference isn't enough the avg user would notice.

    And you don't get more light from cool white, have NO CLUE where you got that. The lumen output is the same. They APPEAR brighter due to glare, but lumen output is no different. Color temp DOES NOT determine output. Emitter bin does. Xm-l2 puts out the same lumens per bin regardless of color temp. But anything warmer than 4700-5000k color temp doesn't come in the higher bins yet. But the lumen output is only a few % lower, less than 5% per bin level. And margin of variation is that much. So it easily cancels out till you get to the really warm tints.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Actually was already pointed out the color temp of those cars is 5000k.
    Audi?s LED headlights are key feature in Super Bowl ad - LEDs

    They are typically ~5500 while NW is typically ~4350.

    http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cr.../XLampXML2.pdf

    CW is typically ~6650 - which is equal to being in the shade during the day.

    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    And you don't get more light from cool white, have NO CLUE where you got that. The lumen output is the same. Color temp DOES NOT determine output. Emitter bin does.
    The bins are just how they sort the yield after they make the product. So yes, if they can make the same bin and sell it for the same price, but CW goes to higher bins (two bins higher). This means that it is harder to make NW output as much light as CW, so color temp does effect the output.

  100. #100
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    So 2 bins higher, fit into a bike light, the difference is insanely small, and the higher bins are only seen in higher end lights where companies can afford to update bins constantly. On a dual emitter your talking max 100 lumens difference if they can get the newest and highest cool white bin. Unless you have 2 matching lights side by side with the different emitters and staring at both beams, you will NEVER notice a difference.

    And were talking NW as in NEUTRAL white, not natural/warm white. 2 different things. Natural is what we consider warm/high cri. Neutral is the middle ground. Higher output, 5k color temp roughly, slight yellow or reddish tint to the light.

    And again your missing half the details, trying to use "shade" and "overcast" as comparisons has little to do with led lighting for these purposes.

    Just like your comparing on road use against off road use, the opposite of each other. road lights your lighting up pavement and need some lateral illumination. Its a freaking smooth road. Nor offroad where every detail seen possible can be the difference between a crash or hitting the right line.

  101. #101
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    97 more lumens at 2 amps per emitter for the top bin of each. That is about a 12% difference.

    The benefit of NW is the higher CRI - 10 more, which is good. Is that worth losing 12% of the light?

    For me, probably. I like CRI. Not for everyone. And they would have to reduce their lumen claim if they were into publishing correct specs (or drive the emitters to a higher output with more heat).

  102. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    And were talking NW as in NEUTRAL white, not natural/warm white. 2 different things. Natural is what we consider warm/high cri. Neutral is the middle ground. Higher output, 5k color temp roughly, slight yellow or reddish tint to the light.
    Nope. What Cree markets as NEUTRAL white is 4350 on average in their spec sheet. Warm is 3150.

    http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cr.../XLampXML2.pdf

  103. #103
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    12% is best case scenario. Your missing half the details. Like error margin and everything else. That gap closes really fast especially when there is no lights out that are 2 bins higher. Cw bins go u4, NW go to u3 now. I know cause the light im reviewing has u3 3c emitters. So 40ish lumens but the NW can produce 5-6% more while u4 can produce minimum, so difference then cancels out.



    And find me a light besides the most expensive that's run u4 bin. you can't. Well except ones just now being released or really expensive. Ya before it would be 2 bins, not now. Lumens are NEVER everything, only to the uneducated are they. Its the quality of how the lumens are used.

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    We can debate the value of lumens vs light quality. I tend to prefer light quality also.

    But I just wanted to point out that there is a reason why not everyone is using warmer and higher CRI emitters that goes beyond preference for cooler vs warmer hues. It is not win win. It is a tradeoff between lumens, cost, and CRI.

    The lights with better CRI are harder to make with as many lumens per watt. This is even true of you buy a CREE lamp at Home Depot. They have the $5 ones, and the $16 ones with higher CRI. Both are about 9 watts. The lower-CRI one has more lumens and lower cost.

    For the home, I would taker the higher CRI for sure - except for the cost difference. I bought a few hundred LEDs for my home and 300 lamps at $5 vs 300 at $16 is a big difference. Same when a bike-light company has to buy a lot of something.

  105. #105
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    Ya its a personal preference. I was just trying to clarify for full info so there was "both sides". And I HATE cool white lol.

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    If Gemini has in fact made the 2016 DUO be 1500 lumens, and they change to NW, then the light will become 1350 lumens. I wonder if they would list that in the spec sheet.

  107. #107
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    Actually not, if duo uses u4, itd loose 5% going NW by going 3c u3

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    Any discount codes for Action-led? About to buy myself a 2016 Gemini Duo Light Set for Christmas.

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    Quote Originally Posted by heavyd66 View Post
    Any discount codes for Action-led? About to buy myself a 2016 Gemini Duo Light Set for Christmas.
    I dont think so. The 2016 Duo ($149) has already been discounted from the $229 2015 price,,,, and is brighter and has wireless remote. So pretty good deal. That's a nice gift for yourself,,,,, enjoy!!!

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    Mine comes tomorrow (4-cell 2016).

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trond View Post
    From just pointing this one out of the porch it looks amazing. Great spread and depth. Cannot capture it on camera because of fog/rain but very very promising indeed.
    Have you had a chance to get the Titan out for a ride yet? Do you have any other high powered lights to compare the performance and beam pattern of the Titan to?

  112. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    Have you had a chance to get the Titan out for a ride yet? Do you have any other high powered lights to compare the performance and beam pattern of the Titan to?
    Hi!

    Sorry, not yet. Mostly running lately for me (and trainer). The only ride I used it I got back before it was necessary to use the light. But it is quite small and it does not bounce around when technical. Spread seems very nice.

    2016 Gemini lights?-npd2lvp07rl68t-usul_sc-izpujdostcfg4asuxmsw-2048x1536.jpg

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  114. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsilvers View Post
    Link seems to be broken

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    Titan Light Set

    Can we get some dimensions on the spacing for the Titan's mounting hole to mounting hole for those of us who might want to run these lights on riser bars please?

    Does anyone have beam shots of this particular model? Trond, any developments as of yet?

    Thanks in advance.
    Last edited by Chromagftw; 01-09-2016 at 08:26 AM.

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    I just had my first ride on my fat bike using the 2015 Xera light with the 2 cell battery. They advertise the run time as 2 hours. It was 30 degrees out, and I ran it on high for 1 hour and 7 minutes on my helmet and got done with my ride to find the battery indicator flashing red. I am bummed by the run time. My Dinotte XML3 is pretty close to stated run times at these temps, maybe not as much when it gets to be -10, but around freezing its pretty close. I put the Dinotte battery on the bottom of the stem, exposed to the cold, but the Gemini I put in an interior pocket of my jacket so I am surprised. Regretting buying the 2 cell battery at this point, because when it gets cold, it will be useless due to the short run time. It performed well, but I shouldn't have trusted the stated run times on the web.

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    I don't have the light obviously but I have those exact bars (my mukluk) and a few different riser bars. I can say with 110% certainty seeing the above pics those lights will fit just fine on risers unless you have some 3" riser bars. I have 13mm up to 30mm risers, aluminum except my sixc bars and I can fit triple emitter lights bigger than a glowworm xs on either side with more gap between mounts and stem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Snopro440 View Post
    I just had my first ride on my fat bike using the 2015 Xera light with the 2 cell battery. They advertise the run time as 2 hours. It was 30 degrees out, and I ran it on high for 1 hour and 7 minutes on my helmet and got done with my ride to find the battery indicator flashing red. I am bummed by the run time. My Dinotte XML3 is pretty close to stated run times at these temps, maybe not as much when it gets to be -10, but around freezing its pretty close. I put the Dinotte battery on the bottom of the stem, exposed to the cold, but the Gemini I put in an interior pocket of my jacket so I am surprised. Regretting buying the 2 cell battery at this point, because when it gets cold, it will be useless due to the short run time. It performed well, but I shouldn't have trusted the stated run times on the web.
    Was that the 1st time you used that light? The reason why I'm asking is out of all the different light sets I've had my hands on over the years (16+sets) there have been times that the battery's needed a few cycles in them to perform as advertised.

    Also no matter how good quality of a product I purchase, I always do a couple of run time tests at home with the light set up in front of a 10" fan outside to make sure there is no step down. This always gives me piece of mind so I know exactly what my max runtime is. There are many lights that will still run on the high setting well after the red indicator is showing. That been said for yours to be red after just one hour seems a bit premature and could be as mentioned above, needs a couple of cycles through it if it's a brand new light. If its already had several cycles through it just do the runtime test to be sure. If your getting less than 1:50 then the capacity is down a bit but not bad for cold weather. If its less than 1:30 then the battery may be out of balance or just has a week cell.

    Also,,, NEVER charge a cold battery!! Let it warm up to room temperature then charge. Charging a cold battery will kill it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    Was that the 1st time you used that light? The reason why I'm asking is out of all the different light sets I've had my hands on over the years (16+sets) there have been times that the battery's needed a few cycles in them to perform as advertised.

    Also no matter how good quality of a product I purchase, I always do a couple of run time tests at home with the light set up in front of a 10" fan outside to make sure there is no step down. This always gives me piece of mind so I know exactly what my max runtime is. There are many lights that will still run on the high setting well after the red indicator is showing. That been said for yours to be red after just one hour seems a bit premature and could be as mentioned above, needs a couple of cycles through it if it's a brand new light. If its already had several cycles through it just do the runtime test to be sure. If your getting less than 1:50 then the capacity is down a bit but not bad for cold weather. If its less than 1:30 then the battery may be out of balance or just has a week cell.

    Also,,, NEVER charge a cold battery!! Let it warm up to room temperature then charge. Charging a cold battery will kill it.
    It had only been charged twice, so I was hoping it will get better. If it doesn't I would probably buy another Dinotte as I have been really happy with it, even though the light weighs a fair bit more than the Xera. I never charge a cold battery for the same reason you listed.

    The combination of the Dinotte XML3 on the bars at about 1600 lumens plus the Gemini on my helmet with about 950 lumens worked great. I hope this Gemini works out!!!

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    Your battery is not going to get better.

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    Snopro, no decent light is going to give much beyond an hour on a 2 cell, especially at 30deg. Your problems are both temperature and choosing a 2 cell pack.

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    Well, then why do they advertise it at 2 hours? I understand that at low temperatures the life is shorter, but the battery is kept in an inside pocket of a jacket, against my body, so it isn't really even that cold so it shouldn't be an issue. It hasn't been an issue with my Dinotte, Niterider or even with my cheap Magicshine knock off, so I can't see why it would be with the Gemini. If the run time doesn't get better, I will contact the business I bought it from to see what they have to say.

    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Snopro, no decent light is going to give much beyond an hour on a 2 cell, especially at 30deg. Your problems are both temperature and choosing a 2 cell pack.

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    I ride in 30 degree weather all the time. Your battery should get at least 1:45 unless you have a faulty battery or charger that's not giving a full charge. My Duo is only 150 more measured lumens than your Xera and I get four hours on a full charge with my four cell. These are good battery's and should give close to advertised run times.

    Do a run time test with a full battery in front of a good fan and I'm guessing you should get at least 1:45 of run time.

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    I will give it a go and see what happens.

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    It sucks when things don't go as expected but I do think if nothing is faulty you will get close to advertised run time. My Duo's four cell is on the top tube more exposed than your battery so give it a try, make sure the lamp head is touching the area of the fan closer to the outer blades as that should give you best air flow. Good luck and keep us in the loop. Cheers!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    It sucks when things don't go as expected but I do think if nothing is faulty you will get close to advertised run time. My Duo's four cell is on the top tube more exposed than your battery so give it a try, make sure the lamp head is touching the area of the fan closer to the outer blades as that should give you best air flow. Good luck and keep us in the loop. Cheers!!
    Test is underway. Went to Orange at 55 minutes...
    Red at 1:01

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    Quote Originally Posted by Snopro440 View Post
    Test is underway. Went to Orange at 55 minutes...
    Red at 1:01
    Seeing that you haven't reported back yet I'm hoping its still running. Cheers!!

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    Yeah, flashing red at 1:41

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    So it shut off at ?????????

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    I managed to fall asleep so I'm not sure actually........... I remember seeing 2:38 and it was still going but I don't know past that. The temperature must really effect the battery more on this system than any I have used before.

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    Are you sure the lamp head was in the best position in front of the fan while doing your test. Seems the thermal must have kicked in to get 2:38 after the battery was flashing red at 1:41? Could you tell if it was still on the high setting? The whole thing seems off. I know a light can run for quite a while after showing red which is what happens if I use my old MS Bak four cell battery with my Xera or Duo, but I don't have that happen when using my Gemini battery, hmm.

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    I was wondering about it too. I had the light about 8 inches in front of a large fan at the end of the blades. When I looked at 2:38 it still seemed pretty bright, but not as bright as it had been, plus the lamp head was perfectly cool so protection must have kicked in, I'm just not sure when.

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    Some brands of lights will by default power down once they hit that (flashing red) indicating the drop in voltage. Maybe that's what happened.

    When I do runtime tests with my Betty-R's, I actually have the lamp heads resting against the housing of the fan. At full power outside in about 40 degree temperature I never have step down. With those lights they stay at full power till the end of which the lamp heads will flash for around ten seconds then shut off. They do have a (reserve mode) that you can turn back on but at very low output to get you out of the woods or if carrying a spare battery to swap out.

  134. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    Some brands of lights will by default power down once they hit that (flashing red) indicating the drop in voltage. Maybe that's what happened.



    When I do runtime tests with my Betty-R's, I actually have the lamp heads resting against the housing of the fan. At full power outside in about 40 degree temperature I never have step down. With those lights they stay at full power till the end of which the lamp heads will flash for around ten seconds then shut off. They do have a (reserve mode) that you can turn back on but at very low output to get you out of the woods or if carrying a spare battery to swap out.

    Actually that's not a "setting". The light loosing power when the light starts flashing red is because the light drops out of regulation. The pack voltage drops continuously while the light is in use. One that pack voltage becomes lower than the requirement of the head, the driver drips out of regulation and Emitters just run off of what last remaining power they can suck from the pack.

  135. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Actually that's not a "setting". The light loosing power when the light starts flashing red is because the light drops out of regulation. The pack voltage drops continuously while the light is in use. One that pack voltage becomes lower than the requirement of the head, the driver drips out of regulation and Emitters just run off of what last remaining power they can suck from the pack.

    That pretty much sounds like what happened to Snopro440's Xera. It still seems off though for it to run another (hour) off a two cell battery after the lamp head flashed red. Other lights that I've had that behave as you have indicated never ran for an hour once the lamp head indicated the end of runtime with flashing red.

    What is your experience with that tigris99,, is that normal behavior?

  136. #136
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    No his issue was thermal step down more than likely. There's no way he got more than about 2 hrs from a 2 cell pack on high unless A) the light was stepped down to a lower mode or B) way over discharged the cells.

    B) is all but impossible in this case. So thermal step down is the remaining option.

  137. #137
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    Optional Xera/Duo Optics

    We contacted an optic vendor in China and got an assortment of optics that fit the 2016 Xera and Duo (they use the same optic) Here are the results using our beam pattern test setup.
    The stock optic curve is of course what comes with the light.
    We have a 10˚ spot lens which gives a better pattern than the stock optic shaving a little off the sides and putting it into more throw.
    The 25˚*optic did little over the stock optic, just adding a little to the widest part of the beam.
    The 45˚ is very effective making a nice wide pattern that would turn the light into a nice head lamp for trail running or the like.
    The 60˚seems to only waste part of the light that the 45˚ uses so I guess we won't be stocking that one but the 10˚*spot and 45˚ flood are a nice addition and are now on our site.

    2016 Gemini lights?-xera-duo-optics.png
    Jim Harger
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  138. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    We contacted an optic vendor in China and got an assortment of optics that fit the 2016 Xera and Duo (they use the same optic) Here are the results using our beam pattern test setup.
    The stock optic curve is of course what comes with the light.
    We have a 10˚ spot lens which gives a better pattern than the stock optic shaving a little off the sides and putting it into more throw.
    The 25˚*optic did little over the stock optic, just adding a little to the widest part of the beam.
    The 45˚ is very effective making a nice wide pattern that would turn the light into a nice head lamp for trail running or the like.
    The 60˚seems to only waste part of the light that the 45˚ uses so I guess we won't be stocking that one but the 10˚*spot and 45˚ flood are a nice addition and are now on our site.
    The 10deg is an obvious upgrade, but you're losing a tremendous amount of light with the 45deg.

  139. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by BmoreKen View Post
    The 10deg is an obvious upgrade, but you're losing a tremendous amount of light with the 45deg.
    It always looks like a big loss but the light in that outer circle is lighting a much larger area. If you shine the light out to where the spot is lighting a 5ft diameter circle that's 19.6 square feet. Spread it out to a 10ft circle and it's 78.5 square feet.
    Jim Harger
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    It always looks like a big loss but the light in that outer circle is lighting a much larger area. If you shine the light out to where the spot is lighting a 5ft diameter circle that's 19.6 square feet. Spread it out to a 10ft circle and it's 78.5 square feet.
    Full width half maximum of the stock gives 300 lumen at 10deg from boresite. For the 45deg, FWHM is ~140 lumen at 14deg. Yes, the 45deg is illuminating a larger area but that may be the problem: most would say they're interested in a wider beam but not a taller beam, as the light energy above the trail is unnecessary and in this case is lost.

  141. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by BmoreKen View Post
    Full width half maximum of the stock gives 300 lumen at 10deg from boresite. For the 45deg, FWHM is ~140 lumen at 14deg. Yes, the 45deg is illuminating a larger area but that may be the problem: most would say they're interested in a wider beam but not a taller beam, as the light energy above the trail is unnecessary and in this case is lost.


    This is purely a matter of personal preference. If you ride densely wooded single track you'll learn real fast after a storm why a "cut off" beam pattern is a bad idea. And its not a waste if you tilt you lights at a downward angle.



    And Action was nice enough to source and stock other optics options for the lights (optics many of us will love having a US vender for them). Its not their fault there is limited options. They could have done anything instead.

  142. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    This is purely a matter of personal preference. If you ride densely wooded single track you'll learn real fast after a storm why a "cut off" beam pattern is a bad idea. And its not a waste if you tilt you lights at a downward angle.



    And Action was nice enough to source and stock other optics options for the lights (optics many of us will love having a US vender for them). Its not their fault there is limited options. They could have done anything instead.
    Sorry, not trying to disparage Action. I'm maybe a little grumpy because of Snowzilla.

    But a 10deg optic would give you sufficient height in the beam to see branches, etc. So IMO, a great optic would give you 10deg vertical and 30deg horizontal.

    Speaking of which, a friend nearly knocked himself unconscious on an early dawn patrol ride when he hit a suspended fallen tree that had shifted - it was high enough you didn't need to duck, but it had shifted a bit and now requires you to duck as you go under. Had he been riding with a helmet light he probably would have see it. I'm pretty sure he now rides with a helmet light in tandem with a bar light.

  143. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by BmoreKen View Post

    But a 10deg optic would give you sufficient height in the beam to see branches, etc. So IMO, a great optic would give you 10deg vertical and 30deg horizontal.
    That's probably about what you get with a Gloworm XS wide-angle optic. I've had excellent results using this optic in older Duo, Yinding and BT21 lights but I'm not sure yet if they will fit the 2016 model Duo and Xera. Jim told me the 2016 Duo/Xera optic is different than the older Duo and would let me know if they were interchangeable.
    Mole

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    Mr mole corrupted me on wide angle, just 10/30 is way to narrow. 10 for me is for the lid, way to tight for bars. 20/45 is nice mixed with a 25ish spot. Im still playing with optics partially because im getting more and more to preferring more light on the lid than the bars.

    Its hard to find perfection lol.

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    Any update on the NW emitters? I wan to order a Duo, but not until I can get it with NW.
    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckji View Post
    Any update on the NW emitters? I wan to order a Duo, but not until I can get it with NW.
    Thanks.
    Yep, I'd like to have NW emitters in a Duo as well. I guess we'll just have wait to see if they decide to offer NW. Glad to hear that Gemini is providing extra optics for the 2016 Duo. Always nice to have choices.

    Just the other day I was thinking that if you could run two Duo's off of one remote, use a combo of narrow and medium optics, you could mount two Duo's on the helmet and likely get an excellent medium wide beam pattern with decent throw. It would likely require two batteries to provide the ummph but I bet it would be bright as all get-out! Now as long as both lamps can be programmed to operate from one ( wireless ) remote, it should function as one lamp with both lamps changing to the same mode at the same time.

    Anyway, if Gemini doesn't offer NW hopefully Gloworm will soon offer a wireless remote. If they do I know what lamps I'll be ordering.

    Of course I do have reservations about using a wireless remote...I feel any lamp with wireless remote should also have a "wired on-board" mode button as well...just in case the battery on the remote dies at the wrong time.

  147. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Yep, I'd like to have NW emitters in a Duo as well. I guess we'll just have wait to see if they decide to offer NW. Glad to hear that Gemini is providing extra optics for the 2016 Duo. Always nice to have choices.

    Just the other day I was thinking that if you could run two Duo's off of one remote, use a combo of narrow and medium optics, you could mount two Duo's on the helmet and likely get an excellent medium wide beam pattern with decent throw. It would likely require two batteries to provide the ummph but I bet it would be bright as all get-out! Now as long as both lamps can be programmed to operate from one ( wireless ) remote, it should function as one lamp with both lamps changing to the same mode at the same time.

    Anyway, if Gemini doesn't offer NW hopefully Gloworm will soon offer a wireless remote. If they do I know what lamps I'll be ordering.

    Of course I do have reservations about using a wireless remote...I feel any lamp with wireless remote should also have a "wired on-board" mode button as well...just in case the battery on the remote dies at the wrong time.
    Geminis have a button on them. I forgot my remote on another bike and was glad of it!

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

  148. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Yep, I'd like to have NW emitters in a Duo as well. I guess we'll just have wait to see if they decide to offer NW. Glad to hear that Gemini is providing extra optics for the 2016 Duo. Always nice to have choices.

    Just the other day I was thinking that if you could run two Duo's off of one remote, use a combo of narrow and medium optics, you could mount two Duo's on the helmet and likely get an excellent medium wide beam pattern with decent throw. It would likely require two batteries to provide the ummph but I bet it would be bright as all get-out! Now as long as both lamps can be programmed to operate from one ( wireless ) remote, it should function as one lamp with both lamps changing to the same mode at the same time.

    Anyway, if Gemini doesn't offer NW hopefully Gloworm will soon offer a wireless remote. If they do I know what lamps I'll be ordering.

    Of course I do have reservations about using a wireless remote...I feel any lamp with wireless remote should also have a "wired on-board" mode button as well...just in case the battery on the remote dies at the wrong time.
    Hey Cat,
    All Gemini has said about NW is that they would build some with their next production run. No idea when that might be. I depends on how many they have in inventory and demand.
    Second, Gemini isn't offering optic choices, Action LED Lights is. I bought a wide variety and found the ones that fit and work best.
    Running two Duo's (or any combination of Duo/Olympia/Titan) off one remote works well. The light pairs with whatever remote is sees first after plugging in the battery and as long as their both in the same mode when paired they will stay in the same mode. If their not hold the remote button in for 3 seconds to turn them both off and then turn them both on with the remote.
    The plan for the Gloworm wireless remote would include a button on the receiver so if you loose the remote your still good.
    Jim Harger
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckji View Post
    Any update on the NW emitters? I wan to order a Duo, but not until I can get it with NW.
    Thanks.
    Spoke to Chris at Gemini,,,, looks like the neutral tint lights will be rolling out around March. He stated that from that point on they will not be using cool white emitters.

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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    Spoke to Chris at Gemini,,,, looks like the neutral tint lights will be rolling out around March. He stated that from that point on they will not be using cool white emitters.
    Any one have any word on this?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Filby View Post
    Any one have any word on this?
    The "neutral white" emitters used on the Duo-R I'm testing are at the highest end of the neutral range. Some will like it and some won't. I personally prefer a slightly warmer output but it will be up to Gemini to decide what emitters they are going to use when they roll out the production models.

    I'm guessing that the temp range of the Gemini emitters are around 5000K ( Kelvin ). When I first received the Duo-R I thought maybe there had been a mistake and that I had received one of the original versions because to my eyes the output still appeared cool white. It was only when I compared the new Duo to my older Gloworms I could tell that the output was indeed slightly warmer. The difference though is very minute. When at it's highest level of output you almost can't tell it's a neutral white emitter setup.

    My opinion on this is that when a lamp is designed for higher outputs that it is more important that the temperature range of the emitter tint be properly matched. Higher outputs usually mean more close in light that will impact the area close to the bike first. To mimimalize close-in reflective glare it helps to have the proper "neutral" temperature range so that the human eye is able to more effectively use the higher output.

    The neutral bin used on the current Duo's are going to appear to be much brighter at first glance. Under certain conditions there might be some advantage to this but going forward I would like a slightly warmer bin, more akin to what is being used with the Gloworms X2's ( with neutral emitters ).

    In the mean time I'm hoping that Gemini chooses to go with a slightly warmer bin for the production of the Olympia's ( if not for the Duo's ).

  152. #152
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    If the difference is slight versus an x2, the color temp is going to be more between 5500-6000k. Most of the neutral white lights we have messed with are 3c (4750-5000k). I'd venture to guess 2c maybe 3b.

    I just got some 3b tint in so once I get the head finished for them I'll do a tint comparison. I know I can see a difference between my x2 with cw (havent changed them yet) and my Xeccon z10 (6000k/2c) when side by side. But till I got it next to a cool white light it was hard to tell.

    Similar to your preferences, I find cooler tints less bothersome in the winter. But only in snow and dry air. The glare with the blueish tint bothers me if high moisture content in the air. Trails are still lacking any growth but I like my 3c/5000k tints better than anything.

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  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    If the difference is slight versus an x2, the color temp is going to be more between 5500-6000k. Most of the neutral white lights we have messed with are 3c (4750-5000k). I'd venture to guess 2c maybe 3b.

    I just got some 3b tint in so once I get the head finished for them I'll do a tint comparison. I know I can see a difference between my x2 with cw (havent changed them yet) and my Xeccon z10 (6000k/2c) when side by side. But till I got it next to a cool white light it was hard to tell.

    Similar to your preferences, I find cooler tints less bothersome in the winter. But only in snow and dry air. The glare with the blueish tint bothers me if high moisture content in the air. Trails are still lacking any growth but I like my 3c/5000k tints better than anything.

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    Yes, the Duo could be using a 2C tint but definitely the bin is U2, says it right on the board. Not long ago I ordered a torch from Mt. Electronics that was specifically ordered and set-up with XM-L2 U2 3C ( listed as between 4750-5000K ). When I got the torch I kept thinking that somehow they made a mistake because the tint was no where near as warm as any of the other neutral lamps I had ( highly disappointed ). The neutral Duo is very near the same tint as my torch, maybe even a bit cooler. Hard to tell as I'm comparing a duel emitter set-up using spot optics with a torch using a single emitter and reflector. ( Note ; Mt. electronics no longer is listing the emitter I ordered, which gives me pause to speculate......maybe they ran out of U2 and gave me a U3 3C?...which is listed more near 5700-6000K )

    Anyway, the 2C tint is very close to the 5700K range on the ANSI white scale. Looks like if I want something warmer I might have to drop down to a T6 bin and use either ( 4C or 4B ). It won't be as bright but the tint should be good.

    Maybe it's just me but I keep thinking that when the bin of the emitter changes ( from T6 > U2 > U3...etc ) that the output is going to look colder due to the increase lumen output regardless of the tint option. Mt. Electronics is now selling a XM-L2 U3 and offering a 3D option. That may be worth looking into. Wish I knew what Gloworm was using in their neutral lamps.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    ......Hard to tell as I'm comparing a duel emitter set-up using spot optics with a torch using a single emitter and reflector.
    Yes, IME, this is a poor way to compare tints. Optics seem to have a far greater affect on the apparent tint of a light than reflectors. I believe that some wavelengths of light are absorbed by the optic material causing a shift in apparent tint. A while back my son and I were dong some tests with a cool white XHP70. When fitted with a Fraen reflector, the tint was still a very cool white. We also fitted a Ledil Iris optic and the resulting tint was much warmer and the apparent output seemed lower.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    ......I might have to drop down to a T6 bin and use either ( 4C or 4B ). It won't be as bright but the tint should be good.
    4C is a pretty nice tint IMO. 3C is my fave though.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  155. #155
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    anyone have night shots of the Gemini Titan? I'd like to see some beam shots of the 6 headed monster...

  156. #156
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    anyone have night shots of the Gemini Titan? I'd like to see some beam shots of the 6 headed monster...
    The array.

    The beam;

    Only one ride so far & I just threw the old Duos on for a laugh. The side beams on the Titan could be spread a bit wider, then I wouldn't bother with the Duos as well.
    The only other issue is the silicon bands are a bit flexy, so the light can wobble a bit.
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    2016 Gemini lights?

    I'm so glad you shared this image. Are you happy with the Titan? I just ordered but now I'm worried the beam may be too narrow.

    I was hoping for a monster light with good spread and distance.




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  158. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by Legendofzelda View Post

    I was hoping for a monster light with good spread and distance.




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    Optics are easy to change. Action-LED-Lights has wide angle and super spot optics for this light and my favorite Gloworm optics (XS) will also fit.
    Mole

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    I don't think his picture is doing the Titan justice lol. Camera obviously trying to deal with the spot intensity is my guess. But you can tell that this is a beast of a light.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Legendofzelda View Post
    I'm so glad you shared this image. Are you happy with the Titan? I just ordered but now I'm worried the beam may be too narrow.

    I was hoping for a monster light with good spread and distance.




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    I've never seen one of these myself but one of the things I noticed while messing around with the new Duo is that even though most of the light is projected forward the lamp has a lot of spill ( even with spot optics ). With a lamp with this much pure output you don't want the optics to provide too much flood. If it were me I might try a couple stock floods for the hell of it to see if I needed it but personally I doubt that I'd be able to tell much of a difference once I start riding with the lamp. Nope, in order to get a really noticeable flood you would likely have to use all flood optics. It would kill some of the throw but you would probably get more of what you're looking for. Of course if you did that than you are going to be dealing with lots of close in reflective glare ( on the higher output levels ).

    The thought just occurred to me, I wonder what the lowest output is with the titan? I figure it has to pull some juice once you get to the higher levels. An 8-cell battery would be a must....I'm assuming you are running the two duos on the helmet? If so you shouldn't be worrying about not being able to see a wide path

  161. #161
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    High beam is overkill, medium is more than adequate.
    iPhone probably not the best for taking night photos & a shot on the trail would probably be a better indication of the beam. I'll see what I can do this weekend.
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    I searched all over the place on the Titan. There isnt much info online or on the forums. No pictures or forum posts on it.


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  163. #163
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    Here's a better shot out on the trail with a proper camera.

    Plenty of spread on flowing trails. Could only use more spread on really tight trails. I've only ever ridden with bar mount lights, so don't have a problem with.
    I might get some flood optics to try since they're pretty cheap.
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  164. #164
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    Oh ya that's got some kick to it, very nice

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    My Gemini Titan just arrived. Ordered from Action LED. It's bright, very bright. It makes my Xeccon Sogn 700 seem dim. I had the two outer lenses switched to the Gloworm XS flood lense, but it didn't make much difference. So far, I think the beam profile is probably good enough out of the box. To give some context, I pointed it over my balcony down into the street and it overpowers the street lights from 7 stories up.


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    I honestly can't see any need for flood optics on a 6 XM-L emitter light. Even with spot optics there would still be plenty of spill for seeing close to the bike.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  167. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by Legendofzelda View Post
    My Gemini Titan just arrived. Ordered from Action LED. It's bright, very bright. It makes my Xeccon Sogn 700 seem dim. I had the two outer lenses switched to the Gloworm XS flood lense, but it didn't make much difference. So far, I think the beam profile is probably good enough out of the box. To give some context, I pointed it over my balcony down into the street and it overpowers the street lights from 7 stories up.


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    Sorry you've missed all the posts I've made regarding Gloworm optics. The XS floods are the only ones I would not recommend. The GW spots would have given you a noticeable increase in throw over the stock Gemini optics and if you wanted to widen the beam the XS wide-angle (elliptical style) optics are what you should have ordered. My understanding from reading reviews of the 2016 Duo (same optics as Titan) is that the stock Gemini optics have a fairly wide beam so I'm not sure how much if any the XS wide-angles would widen your beam (I would consult Jim @ Action on this) but I do know they have a much wider spread than the XS floods.
    Mole

  168. #168
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    The XS wide's are what we fixed him up with. 2 of them did make for some more spill but with 4 spots over powering them it's almost hard to tell.
    Jim Harger
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  169. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    The XS wide's are what we fixed him up with. 2 of them did make for some more spill but with 4 spots over powering them it's almost hard to tell.
    Thanks for the clarification. Are you going to make a beam pattern graph for the new Titan soon (and include the super spots optics too)?
    Mole

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    I have a computer on my bike so the Titan doesnt fit on the bars. How can I mount it lower?


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  171. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by Legendofzelda View Post
    I have a computer on my bike so the Titan doesnt fit on the bars. How can I mount it lower?
    Post a pic of your bar and computer. It will help others better understand the interference.

    Probably a couple of my GoPro adapters for the Gemini Duo used with a couple of my GoPro mounts shown in this thread...

    http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-...s-1002310.html

    Would let you come up with a mounting position that would clear your computer.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  172. #172
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    here's a few pics


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    Damn I was going to suggest a bar extender. Doesn't look like that would work with the Titan. It's a whole city block o lights!

  174. #174
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    You've got a lot of stuff on there!
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  175. #175
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    its an electric bike


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  176. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by Legendofzelda View Post
    I have a computer on my bike so the Titan doesnt fit on the bars. How can I mount it lower?


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    I Googled your light and all the pictures showed the light centered over the stem (where your computer is). If your light has clearance mounted that way you should be able to mount it centered under the bar upside-down and have similar clearance. Each individual optic has a symmetrical beam pattern so this will not effect the overall beam pattern. If it fits you need to make sure the light doesn't hit the frame when turned full lock side to side. I'm just guessing this might work from looking at the pictures of your bar arrangement. If it does please post a picture for us.
    Mole

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    almost fits. it falls off center. see pics




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  178. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by Legendofzelda View Post
    almost fits. it falls off center. see pics




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    Name:  MT-201P_large.jpg
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    So it looks like the computer mount is the problem mounted this way. I found this mount (above picture) on the Action-Led-Lights website and you may be able to mount one on each side of the computer mount (tabs facing in) and then mount the Titan to the mounting tabs.
    Mole

  179. #179
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    2016 Gemini lights?

    i cant see how this would fit the odd shape of the Titan. Any idea?


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  180. #180
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    I don't think mounting it under the bar will be very good. Too many cables, wires, etc will be in the beam.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  181. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by Legendofzelda View Post
    i cant see how this would fit the odd shape of the Titan. Any idea?


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    From what I can see you only lack a little space to get it to fit. If you mounted one of the bar/light mounted on each side of your computer mount with the tabs facing in then you should be able to line them up with the mounts on the Titan and attach with the O-rings. I only have 1 similar mount so I took a pic. of it mounted on each side. You'll have to use your imagination to visualize how it would work. Vancbiker has a point about the cables getting in the way. That's why I mounted the lights in front of the bar because I was getting cable interference with the bike I used.
    Mole

    2016 Gemini lights?-006.jpg2016 Gemini lights?-003.jpg
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    This is probably a better option for a mount (6" long) rather than 2 short ones.

  182. #182
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    oh that picture helped! I get it now. it basically creates a smaller bar out front. Great idea mole!


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    Here's a pic of me walking my dog with the Titan light. There is a cop sitting in the parking lot off to the right with his headlights on.


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    I'm looking at buying one of the Gemini Titan lights for my road bike as well =).

    Has anybody heard any update on when the neutral-white emitters will be available?

    Also, I currently have a computer mount on my bike:

    2016 Gemini lights?-img_20160508_081734.jpg

    I was thinking it'd be a bit cramped to try to mount the lights directly on the handlebar.

    I've emailed Pacifier, in case he has any ideas - was thinking he might have an adapter that offset the lights in front? Similar to what MRMOLE did above? Any thoughts?

  185. #185
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    The Titan really isn't a road bike light, extremely blinding and can easily cause an accident risking you or others getting severely injured.

    That said, what mole linked above (available at Action LED) is the only solution. The modular unit they have that's designed to hold a computer and lights is the perfect solution. But the standard extension would work well as they have ones that only mount on one side.

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  186. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    The Titan really isn't a road bike light, extremely blinding and can easily cause an accident risking you or others getting severely injured.

    That said, what mole linked above (available at Action LED) is the only solution. The modular unit they have that's designed to hold a computer and lights is the perfect solution. But the standard extension would work well as they have ones that only mount on one side.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    I tried the Titan with the one side MT-201 and the tube is not quite long enough. It would be plenty strong if you could come up with a longer tube. (perhap 3/4" PVC would work)
    Jim Harger
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  187. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by victorhooi View Post
    I'm looking at buying one of the Gemini Titan lights for my road bike as well =).

    Has anybody heard any update on when the neutral-white emitters will be available?

    Also, I currently have a computer mount on my bike:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I was thinking it'd be a bit cramped to try to mount the lights directly on the handlebar.

    I've emailed Pacifier, in case he has any ideas - was thinking he might have an adapter that offset the lights in front? Similar to what MRMOLE did above? Any thoughts?
    Drop-bar road bikes pose additional challenges for mounting lights because the cable routing interferes with any sort of solid bar mount. Smart that you contacted Vancbiker on this. He has a Stem face-plate replacement GoPro mount that would probably be the best bet for the available space you have. You'll have to have him design a custom mount that replaces the two stock mounts with a very wide single alloy mount with the Gopro interface centered between the connecting points on the light-head. Most Gemini lights tend to run hot so the additional heat-sink area will also be a benefit even though you probably won't find too many situations where you can use max power on the road. If you get this done I'd love to see you post pictures!
    Mole

  188. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    .....Smart that you contacted Vancbiker on this. He has a Stem face-plate replacement GoPro mount that would probably be the best bet for the available space you have. You'll have to have him design a custom mount that replaces the two stock mounts with a very wide single alloy mount with the Gopro interface centered between the connecting points on the light-head. Most Gemini lights tend to run hot so the additional heat-sink area will also be a benefit even though you probably won't find too many situations where you can use max power on the road. If you get this done I'd love to see you post pictures!
    Mole
    I only have stem faceplate designs for a Cannondale 2 bolt 25.4, a couple Titec 2 bolt 25.4 and Thomson 4 bolt 31.8 stems. To do a stem faceplate for Victor's Look carbon stem would be a total custom build and very expensive (though way cool on that very expensive Look bike). It also requires that I have the original stem faceplate for a while to measure up while 3-D modelling the new faceplate.

    A couple finned Duo GoPro adapters and a couple K-edge type extended GoPro mounts would probably do the trick here. Possibly one of K-edges combo mounts to hold his Garmin on one side and the regular extended mount on the other. Would have to contact K-edge to see if the bar to GoPro hole dimensions were the same between the combo and regular mounts.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  189. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    I only have stem faceplate designs for a Cannondale 2 bolt 25.4, a couple Titec 2 bolt 25.4 and Thomson 4 bolt 31.8 stems. To do a stem faceplate for Victor's Look carbon stem would be a total custom build and very expensive (though way cool on that very expensive Look bike). It also requires that I have the original stem faceplate for a while to measure up while 3-D modelling the new faceplate.

    A couple finned Duo GoPro adapters and a couple K-edge type extended GoPro mounts would probably do the trick here. Possibly one of K-edges combo mounts to hold his Garmin on one side and the regular extended mount on the other. Would have to contact K-edge to see if the bar to GoPro hole dimensions were the same between the combo and regular mounts.
    2016 Gemini lights?-005.jpg

    I did a mock setup like this on my road bike to confirm that one of your standard mounts would fit and not mess with the cable routing too much. Too bad about the limited stem cap mount availability, that would have worked well. Same idea here, long mount connecting two mounting points but with the GoPro interface off-set to match the location difference from the center of the bar mount to the center of the stem. I'm just throwing ideas out there. Hard to know how it will fit without C to C measurement of the mounting holes on the light-head and stem width.
    Mole

  190. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    ...The Titan really isn't a road bike light...
    I'm inclined to agree. No one needs that much light coming off the bars on the road. Nope, I think you'd be better served with a single Gemini Duo-R with spot optics or a Gloworm X2 with spot optics. Typical two emitter lamps with spot optics throw very well on the road and supply a wide beam pattern as well. It's what I use. If I need more I use a single emitter thrower on the helmet for the faster downhills with curves. Otherwise I'm good with just the two emitter bar lamp.

    If you're absolutely dead set on running over 2000 lumen off the bars then I'd recommend either the Gloworm XS or running two Gemini Duo-R's on the bars with both lamps synced with only one wireless remote. Two Duo-Rs on high would provide about 2800-3000 lumen. Still, I don't know why you would feel you need that much light for road use.

  191. #191
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    I bought the MT-204 mount pictured above for my Titan.
    Unfortunately, even with the small O rings, it wobbles too much off road. A couple of zipties would help, but would be a pain to take on & off. You also have to move the mounts out so the Titan sits in side them.
    & yeah, the Titan is totally over kill for the road. The mount would be good on the road bike if you want to mount more stuff & is sturdier than the single sided version.
    Sent from the future to destroy the past.

  192. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by KiwiJohn View Post
    I bought the MT-204 mount pictured above for my Titan.
    Unfortunately, even with the small O rings, it wobbles too much off road. A couple of zipties would help, but would be a pain to take on & off. You also have to move the mounts out so the Titan sits in side them.
    & yeah, the Titan is totally over kill for the road. The mount would be good on the road bike if you want to mount more stuff & is sturdier than the single sided version.
    I was thinking you could still go with the Vancbiker mounts but I checked my single sided mount like yours with my 25.4 Vancbiker mount and found the diameter of the action mount is considerably smaller than 25.4 which may be a possible source of your instability issue. Just an idea but building up the mounting tube diameter (the thicker the better) with some sort of tape might help and wouldn't cost much to try.
    Mole
    Last edited by MRMOLE; 06-10-2016 at 04:10 AM.

  193. #193
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    Often those extender mounts like the MT204 are 22.2mm (7/8") diameter. Many Tri-bars also use that size. I have 22.2mm GoPro mounts available as detailed in this thread...

    http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-...s-1002310.html
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  194. #194
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    Does Gemini lights produce cool white light?

  195. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picard View Post
    Does Gemini lights produce cool white light?
    I believe most of the lamps that Gemini makes are sold with NW emitters. Still, the ones I have seen seem to be slightly cooler in tint than what most of us here on MTBR appear to prefer. The last I heard Gemini was supposed to be switching over to a warmer bin but I don't know if that has happened yet. If you need to know you might ask the U.S. vendor ( ActionLED ).

    I own both the Duo and the Olympia, both were given to me from Gemini for review purposes ( earlier in the year ). The beam tints on both appear to be just a tad cooler than the typical NW emitters that I prefer. I wouldn't classify them as cool white though, just plain white.

  196. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picard View Post
    Does Gemini lights produce cool white light?
    Initial production runs of the 2016 Gemini lights were done with "cool white" emitters. As I understand it at some point the decision to switch to neutral white was made mid year so it's very possible you can still get some of the cool white versions if that's what your looking for. You need to check with Jim @ "Action-LED-Lights" to see what stock he has available. Also recommend you look at the Gloworm lights if you go to Actions website as they also come with cool white emitters (NW optional).
    Mole

  197. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picard View Post
    Does Gemini lights produce cool white light?
    All of Gemini's production is now in Neutral White. We do still have a few Xera's and Olympia's in Cool White. If you want to order either let me know.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  198. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by KiwiJohn View Post
    I bought the MT-204 mount pictured above for my Titan.
    Unfortunately, even with the small O rings, it wobbles too much off road.
    Yeah, I wrapped my mount with thick Velcro, solved the rotating problem offroad. Was doing some testing, don't need it with the XS.

    2016 Gemini lights?-img_9838.jpg

    Back when I had gears this mount was essential...

    2016 Gemini lights?-img_1259bar-mount.jpg

  199. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    All of Gemini's production is now in Neutral White. We do still have a few Xera's and Olympia's in Cool White. If you want to order either let me know.
    One of out nightride regulars showed up with a new Gemini, that wireless remote is the Cat's Ass!

    It is very white, esp compared to my NW Gloworms.

    2016 Gemini lights?-img_9826.jpg

  200. #200
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    Boom


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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