You've got me wanting more, Could i get some advice please- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    You've got me wanting more, Could i get some advice please

    Quick hello,

    Got a set of lumicycles that i want to mod they are mr11 halogen type http://www.lumicycle.com/product/102...t-charger.html but they just arnt bright enough anymore, and after looking at some of the diy work on here, truly outstanding the skills on some of you, i fancy giving it a go.

    Could 1 of you lighting guru's give me a bit of advice on my proposed plan will it work, dont want to jump straight in and get it wrong, and after reading too many post on here today im hoping im making the right desision,

    So could you check out my cutter order and let me know if im on the right track. http://www.cutter.com.au/cart.php

    And would the heatsink be enough,

    would i be better off with a 3 way rather than 4,

    and would my nimh cell be up to the job, what sort of run times are we looking at, longest they need to run is 2hrs ish.

    And will i see a marked improvement over the halogens (the important bit)

    sorry for all the questions.

    Cheers in advance,

    Talcy

  2. #2
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    Your shopping link did not pull up anything for me. Might be one of those cookies things.
    Anyway is this the kit here?

    A 3 up will be better than a four as far as heat is concerned.
    Issue is a way to move the heat from the board with the LEDs on it to the light housing.
    This usually takes a slug pressed into the housing. Not sure if the cutter heat sink will aid much in transfering the heat to the light body.
    Battery run time would depend on # of LEDs and current you want to run them at.
    Glad you are interested and we are here to help.
    Just sort the route to get the heat to the light body and the rest is just math.

  3. #3
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    Cheers odtexas for replying,
    I am hoping to use the original lumicycle casing and mount, so would be looking at ordering the following from cutter:


    Buck Driver Model: - Bflex UIB2 (bike specific UI) - -
    MR11 Kit Led Choice: - R2 WH x 3 leds -
    Cutter MR11 Optic Type: - 3 way Medium
    Heatsink KHS35 35 mm Power LED Heatsink
    Arctic Silver Adhesive,

    cables and switches easily sorted,
    Hoping to use 13.2 volt (NiMH) battery packs that i already have, and as for the maths, never been my strong point.

    Cheers.

  4. #4
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    Talcy the heatsink is useless inside a lumi housing
    you will need to make or have made one to fit .

  5. #5
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    A 0.5" thick disc of aluminum that fits snugly inside your housing is what you need, secured part way in with the arctic adhesive. But....is the back of your housing removable? You'll want access to the driver compartment behind the aluminum disc.

    JZ
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  6. #6
    Homer
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    Is your pack really a 13.2V (11 cell) nominal NiMH? Talking about proprietary...
    But the biggest disadvantage is that its hard to use both with a boost driver/quad led setup and a buck/triple setup. Vf and batteryvoltage will be too similar, causing the light to direct drive.

    I agree with trout and Jim, you'll have to make something yourself inside the existing housing to mount the MCPCB on, that heatsink is useless.
    Need optics for DIY bike lights?

  7. #7
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    Cheers guys for the reply's, regarding the removable back on the lumi housing didn't think of that, is it possible to mount driver outside in its own housing,

    Brum, not quite sure about your post regarding battery, looking at the lumi website, the battery i've got is rated 13.2v 4.0 Amp/h is this not going to be any good, this is getting confusing,

    Has anyone got a better solution apart from buying a new battery, trying to keep the cost down.

    Not looking for any thing fancy, just a decent light output, my halogens do ok but i want more, would i be better using a single led set up.

    I also have 2 lumi casings that could be modded.

    Cheers again guy's,

    Any advice regarding my project greatly appreciated.

    What route would you guys go down if you had my battery and housings available to you.

    P.s trout loving your work, if i had the cash i would love to have one of your creations.

  8. #8
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    No worries there Talcy.
    Sorry about pointing out all the possible problems.
    Math is our friend, but I like the cheat by using an online calculator.
    On your side of the pond it seems there are Hammond boxes readily available. They make for easy nice builds. Our very own Citizen Kane came up with this easy and clean design.
    With your current housing though, it is doable. You will need to sort a tight fitting heat sink. Driver needs to be behind it. Wires must pass through it. Not going to be a simple "just drop it in" process. That is why I suppose you are asking about it here on the board.
    If you can and want to cut a slug, then you might get it to work.

  9. #9
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    Cheers again, right complete change of direction, odtexas cheers for the link to the citizen kane thread, realy like the simplicity of it, think i could even build this,
    So back to my battery if you would be so kind, will i be able to run my nimh or am i looking at a new li ion battery.

  10. #10
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    I like running 3.7 li-ions with a Fatman driver from Taskled.com.
    You could run 2 or 3 LEDs in series with your battery though. I would use a buckpuck for simplicity sake. There is a programmable UI on the maxflex, and bflex. Nothing wrong with it. I just have never messed with it.
    With the buck puck I would look at the 500 or 750 mA versions.

  11. #11
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    To be honest im after as simple as possible, not one for messing with things, i want to switch it on ride a trail and turn it off.

  12. #12
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    Your battery should work for driving 3 leds in series through a buck driver. Maximum Vf will be 3.7v / led, so 11.1v total. The Buckpuck needs 2v over the leds, so 13.1v....you should be OK. And I think the R2s have a lower VF than that, giving you more overhead. I haven't worked with them, but I think some of the other buck drivers out there need less overhead than the Buckpuck. A pre-wired buckpuck is about the simplest and most foolproof way to go though, and you can get them with a dimming pot. if you want to vary the light level.

    JZ
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  13. #13
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    Here is a good option for a light body. Pm Troutie and see what he has available.

  14. #14
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    Cheers guys for taking the time to reply, its a big help, I am learning.

    My proposed plan is

    Citizen Kane housing and build
    3 x R2 led,
    2 x 6 Degree Collimator Lens for Cree XR-E
    1 x 25 Degree Collimator for Cree XR-E
    ITW SWITCHES - 59-511
    Original nimh pack,until funds allow upgrade,
    Arctic Alumina Adhesive

    Have i missed anything.

    what buckpuck would i need, 350, 500, 700, or a 1000ma, and with the dimming pot does that allow for ajustability of light output,

    Sorry for all the questions, really looking forward to having a crack at building my own lights, can see this being quite addictive.

    Cheers in advance.

  15. #15
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    Talcy69
    if you are interested I have just been looking through my parts box and I have a triple Q5 board with 2 triple cute optics a narrow and a medium .

    plus this housing which will take either a buckpuck or Bflex you would have to make an end cap for it but then you dont want it too easy do you .
    it is tapped for a lumicycle mount M5 thread.
    Yours very cheap 25 +pp for the lot


  16. #16
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    700 or 1000 on the buckpuck. It's a brightness vs. heat vs. runtime compromise. 1000 is of course brighter but the leds run hotter. 700 is supposed to be almost as bright with less heat and longer run. You can play with the numbers using the on-line runtime calculator that odtexas linked above.

    Yes the buckpuck with the pot allows brightness adjustment. That's the easiest way to have adjustable output.

    JZ
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  17. #17
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    Thanks for the offer troutie mate, but i have no access to any metal working equipment, and the citizen kane housing just seems like the easiest option for my first build, no doubt there will be other to follow, keep up the good work, have read all your threads and you are a lighting guru mate.

    JimZinVT cheers for the info, have just placed my first order with cutter, now its just a waiting game, no doubt i will be back when i get stuck.

    Cheers.

  18. #18
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    Yes, I've not ordered from Cutter, but ordering from DX is a similar exercise in patience. I just received six Q5 XR-Es I ordered first week of February

    JZ
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  19. #19
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    Been 2 hours since you posted Jim. So where's the light and beamshots??

  20. #20
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    Ha! I've got other things on my plate right now, so no light building at the moment. Somehow I can always find a few minutes to sit down in front of this damned computer though. Think how much more could be accomplished without this "time-saving device"

    JZ
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  21. #21
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    Right guys sorry but i've more questions,

    My build is 3 x r2, using a 1000ma buckpuck, was originaly going to use my original lumi 13.5v nimh cell, but i have a buyer for my old lights,

    Whilst i was skimming dx, got carried away and bought a cree torch that uses 18650 batterys, and ordered 10 x 18650 batterys and 2 chargers, so as i have these coming to me now. started thinking about using them as my new battery then i stumbled acrosshttp://www.turboferret.co.uk/buy.php

    But what configuration and voltage would best suit my needs, got plenty of spare batterys now as the torch only uses 1, like i said i got carried away.

    Can someone shed some light on what holder i need,

    Also off topic, how do you search on this site. it just wont let me

    Cheers in advance.

  22. #22
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    The 4 cell in series holder is the one you want. your 3 leds add up to about 11 volts, and you need at least 2 more volts for the buckpuck. 4 x 18650 cells in series = 14.8v

    That's about as advanced as my math skills get

    JZ
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  23. #23
    aka RossC
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimZinVT
    The 4 cell in series holder is the one you want. your 3 leds add up to about 11 volts, and you need at least 2 more volts for the buckpuck. 4 x 18650 cells in series = 14.8v

    That's about as advanced as my math skills get

    JZ
    agreed 4 x is the way to go. The Vf may be a bit lower as a lot of R2's are showing 3.3V each.

  24. #24
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    Cheers guys, anyone got any advice on the search function it just brings up the mtbr banner, and an advert, then a plain white screen, same if i click on anything my account, faq, calander etc, making it a nightmare as i cant search.

    Cheers

  25. #25
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    Scrap the search question, doesnt like morzilla

  26. #26
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    Hmmm....I use Mozilla Firefox and don't have those problems. Maybe a setting needs to be changed in tools> options? No idea which setting, it's all trial and error for me

    JZ
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

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