You really need to try this- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    ... and if we just ... You really need to try this

    for about 20 bucks this is the most excited I have been about building lights in a while



    All it takes is some battery acid from your local auto parts store

    Rit dye

    a battery charger some buckets and distilled water.
    Man can you get some good stuff


    Start with this





    And you end up with this



    Last edited by zen bicycle; 07-10-2009 at 04:12 PM.

  2. #2
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    Home anodising??!!! Tell me more!

  3. #3
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    I got almost all my information from here

    http://www.atmsite.org/contrib/Newman/anodize/

    and the forums here

    http://www.caswellplating.com/

    the rest was just trial and error, and surprisingly there wasn't a lot of error.

    Make sure you follow the 720 rule and mix up your die about as strong as you can if using Rit dies.

  4. #4
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    It's actually fairly easy. The main thing is prep. The metal must be really really clean.

  5. #5
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    Zen,
    Nice ...myself am well versed on the caswell info, and almost went there. ...but just seemed like a pain in the ass in the end. Curious, your opinion on 1-10 scale, 10 being pulling teeth, what do you rate your DIY experience?

  6. #6
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    Probably a 3 or a 4, It would have been a 2, but I miscalculated the dye ratio when I switched to the caswell dies. Had to run a batch 3 times to figure out the die wasn't strong enough

    DOH

  7. #7
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    Wow, if something as simple as die ratio has you crossing the scales, and starting at 2this must be something I need to try out!

    Tried black yet? Apparently it's very hard to do well due to the excessive depth of penetration that's needed for good results. Gray is more the usual result. Synthetic die is a must.

    Awesome.

  8. #8
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    Does anodizing, or any paint or surface finish, affect the heat dissipation properties of the aluminum ? Seems that most commercial light have a finish, so maybe it can even improve upon raw aluminum ??

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the info! Got source some acid and die then I can get cracking!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by dsjc
    Does anodizing, or any paint or surface finish, affect the heat dissipation properties of the aluminum ? Seems that most commercial light have a finish, so maybe it can even improve upon raw aluminum ??
    Apparently anodizing helps to keep thinks cool as it is realy a rougher oxidised surface with a colour added (unless of course you go with clear)

    normal paint on the other hand will act as an insulating layer over the aluminium and hold the heat in.

    There are some ceramic paints used for coating guns that are said to help dissipate heat that people have had good results with, though I have never used them myself.

    Gun Kote is the first to spring to mind and there are some links others in this thread. http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=534024

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty
    Apparently anodizing helps to keep thinks cool as it is realy a rougher oxidised surface with a colour added (unless of course you go with clear)
    No surprise the anodizing info is on a telescope making site!
    One of the performance problems with telescopes is thermal currents inside the tube. Anodizing the aluminium parts helps them come to thermal equilibrium with the air faster and you get less currents and better viewing through the night(ex telescope builder here).
    Black also reduces light scatter for components inside the tube too.

  12. #12
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    On thermals ...dark ano helps but only a very very small amount. Radiation doesn't come into play untill surface temperature is super high, or you are in space where air convection doesn't come into play at all. Hold your hand infront of a high po LED when running ...you may feel a slight warmth. This LED die temp is the sort of temp you would need on your housing. If you feel something off your housing how it's convection through the moving air, trust me.

    A change in Alum suface texture, like going from a high polish to a satin finish has a similar benefit ...but like I said, not significant at our temps.

    That said, pick a pretty color cause that's what matter the most

  13. #13
    I like bloody ankles
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    great, now I need a mill, a lathe, and an anodizing tank - it's only a hobby, it's only a hobby......

    Good info guys, thanks.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by dsjc
    great, now I need a mill, a lathe, and an anodizing tank - it's only a hobby, it's only a hobby......

    Good info guys, thanks.
    Step 1 is admitting you have a problem.
    Step 2 is figuring out a way to convince the wife/gf that you don't

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by HuffyPuffy
    Step 1 is admitting you have a problem.
    Step 2 is figuring out a way to convince the wife/gf that you don't
    Then step 3 is to cover the house, the shed and the garage in bits of aluminium chippings.

  16. #16
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    Hey buddy, got ya covered, just an hour away ... prattmachinetools.com What I'm doing when I'm not trying to start new businesses

    How bout a little sample ...it can't hurt. Common ...everyone's doing it ....

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdnative
    Tried black yet? Apparently it's very hard to do well due to the excessive depth of penetration that's needed for good results. Gray is more the usual result. Synthetic die is a must

    Awesome.
    I'll agree with the dye choice for black. Often with the fabric dyes your black appears a deep purplish color on aluminum. They also do not age as well, becoming less black over time.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdnative
    Tried black yet? Apparently it's very hard to do well due to the excessive depth of penetration that's needed for good results. Gray is more the usual result. Synthetic die is a must.
    My buddy and I ano'd my Ostar light black. It was VERY easy with Caswell dye and took the color instantly. Been using the light for a while now, no color fade or shift...... anodize specific dye is the key to black.

    However having said that, grey is much harder... Tried Caswell "Grey BL" and it came out dark blue/black. 6 months later, the same parts are now medium blue/purple. I also have "Grey NLN", but haven't had the time to try it out yet.

  19. #19
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    Blingy?

    I'm assuming this wouldn't effect the strength of the anodized bit. I was thinking of trying this on a derailleur hanger.
    Slow-core. -.. .-. .. -. -.- .... --- -- . -... .-. . .--

  20. #20
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    What sort of battery charger are you using?? I have a simple one that I connect with croc clips and turn on. It has no guages or any current rating? Reckon it'll work?

  21. #21
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    Anodize creates a hard aluminum oxide layer on the surface and doesnt affect the base material strength. I anodized my lights mainly for the hard scratch resistant surface, since sometimes the lights get whacked into trees and low hanging brush (pilot error ).

    piesoup: I use a simple auto battery charger. But you'll need one with a gauge to know your amps in order to follow the 720 rule.

  22. #22
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    Little update on how it has gotten on.

    <a href="https://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb215/g_pace1/Anodize/?action=view&current=072709blackbackviewweb.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb215/g_pace1/Anodize/072709blackbackviewweb.jpg" border="0" alt="black back"></a>

    <a href="https://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb215/g_pace1/Anodize/?action=view&current=072709blackfrontviewweb.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb215/g_pace1/Anodize/072709blackfrontviewweb.jpg" border="0" alt="black front"></a>

    I use a sears MANUAL battery charger with settings for 2,10 ,and 50 amps. It normally settles in between 2 and 5 amps according to the meter. If it is an automatic charger it will not work as it tries to compensate.

  23. #23
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    Question on your battery charger... can you determine the current coming from the charger? How do you monitor or control that?

  24. #24
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    hi guys
    for the catharode what grade ally do you use will it be the same as the parts to be anodized?
    thwang

  25. #25
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    "I use a sears MANUAL battery charger with settings for 2,10 ,and 50 amps. It normally settles in between 2 and 5 amps according to the meter. If it is an automatic charger it will not work as it tries to compensate."

    I think that I found a suitable charger at harbor freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=66783

    Would this charger also work: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45005

    Thanks in advance for the info... should be fun to see if I can get it to work without burning down the house...
    __________________

  26. #26
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    thwang: I use a chunk of lead my buddy had lying around.

    tamen00: Although not a harbor freight charger, the one I use looks simliar to the first link you posted.

  27. #27
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    I use a piece of roof vent pipe flashing that I got from Home Depot.

    I would look some more for a charger as it looks like those automatically shut off or go into trickle charge mode. Not positive on that though.

  28. #28
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    I have been busy this week, and had to share


  29. #29
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    Very good I bet you had a good time doing those .
    I want to have a go but am resisting with an iron willpower .
    but they look really cool

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