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  1. #1
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    Y Adapter DIY

    Is there an easy way to create a Y adapter out of a 5.4mm Male to Female Extension Cable sku#32751 from DX? I'm using this wire now as my main power cable from the batteries but need some insight for a switch wire without having two wires going into the light body.

    One wire will come from the batteries and the other for a remote switch.

    I'm thinking of something like this would be nice.


    Thanks again.
    Last edited by pucked up; 09-26-2012 at 12:21 PM.

  2. #2
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    sounds like you need a 4 strand cable - 2 strands for power, 2 for the remote (if you're using a MOM switch)

  3. #3
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    Are you wanting a momentary switch remote like needed for taskled drivers, or a latching on/off only function?
    If momentary you need a 4-pin style connector, and a 4 conductor cable to do that. The magicshine plug/cable you mention is a 2 conductor. Now some of the magicshine & clone lights are now able to be ordered with the button in the tailcap, or with a remote switch, as you pictured, and I'm assuming have different wiring to accommodate, unless that switch is simply a on/off switch that is breaking the battery circuit.

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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    Are you wanting a momentary switch remote like needed for taskled drivers, or a latching on/off only function?
    If momentary you need a 4-pin style connector, and a 4 conductor cable to do that. The magicshine plug/cable you mention is a 2 conductor. Now some of the magicshine & clone lights are now able to be ordered with the button in the tailcap, or with a remote switch, as you pictured, and I'm assuming have different wiring to accommodate, unless that switch is simply a on/off switch that is breaking the battery circuit.
    For now the switch is just a regular on/off so I'm looking at a simple 2 conductor Y adapter build.

    I just need something that will hold all three wires together. Having the switch built in to the tailcap would be the best, but the one I found at batteryspace wanted over $20 to ship to Canada. Don'[t know if DX has then but will look again. Takes the fun out of making them if they do.

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    You could use something like a PG7 gland - run 2 runs of cable through it - you could squeeze 4 ~20ga wires or a 4 conductor ~5mm wire in there.
    battery on one pair, switch on the other. connect negative lead from battery to the pos lead running to the switch. then you connect pos from battery and neg from the switch to the driver.

    Would that do what you want?

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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    but the one I found at batteryspace wanted over $20 to ship to Canada. Don'[t know if DX has then but will look again. Takes the fun out of making them if they do.
    Action-LED-Lights — PARTS/ACCESSORIES

    action has them, and looks like they ship to Canada as well.

    The only problem I see with using the y-cable you mentioned is that the leads from each leg of the Y are paralleled together outside of the connector that plugs into the battery, so making the 2 legs work in that way would require destroying the nice molded y-junction of the switch. Cheaper to just build using bare wire and connectors you already might have.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    You could use something like a PG7 gland - run 2 runs of cable through it - you could squeeze 4 ~20ga wires or a 4 conductor ~5mm wire in there.
    battery on one pair, switch on the other. connect negative lead from battery to the pos lead running to the switch. then you connect pos from battery and neg from the switch to the driver.

    Would that do what you want?
    That's what I"m doing now but with the positive lead from battery instead. I have the Y conx inside the light body. With the MS clone wiring I wanted the Y conx on the outside with only 1 wire going into the light body.

  8. #8
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    You can see in the picture below the simple y connector I make with one end to a momentary switch and the other to a battery connector. The y connector is just beside the bar stem.

    Essentially you take a 4 core cable, cut a small amount of insulation away in the area you want the y join and pull out 2 of the conducutor wires. Take some black heatshrink and put it over the 2 wires you pulled out to and shrink it to insulate them, then slide a piece of self adhesive heatshrink over the y join, heat it up to active the adhesive, pull the 2 pairs of wire apart and squeeze the heatshrink in the y join with some needle nose pliers till the adhesive has set. What you are left with is a sealed y join.


  9. #9
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    Thanks for the help.

    This is my first attempt, not what I really wanted, but it works. I'll try a better version on the next build.

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