XPE triple housing size- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    Randomhead
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    XPE triple housing size

    I just bought the Cutter triple XPE kit
    I am not using the driver for this light, I'm going to use the led and lens for a dyno light. I'm thinking about getting a 1" (25.4mm) piece of aluminum round for the housing. Am I going to wish I went with something larger?

  2. #2
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    Reputation: HEY HEY ITS HENDO's Avatar
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    you will be ok with light gauge tube ie16g but not 10g (3.2mm)
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  3. #3
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    I resized my rendering, hopefully it's not as huge as it shows up on my system. I decided
    to go with 1 1/8 outer diameter. I ordered 1 1/4 aluminum, figured the extra
    might come in handy later and I can turn it down fairly easily.

    The housing is about 2 3/4" long. There is a place in the back for the electronics,
    which has to be fairly big because of the caps. I will make a solid model of the lens, and pc board
    when I get them.


  4. #4
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    Which options did you choose for the Cutter kit? And why?

  5. #5
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    I just went with a solid rod. Tubes cost just as much and aren't as flexible. And with a solid rod I have a natural heat conduction path. Of course it's more work.

    Since I'm a newbie at this, I don't know if my decisions should guide anyone. I got the tightest spot lens. Maybe that was a mistake, but I figured I could overlay a diffuser material over one emitter if that's what I wanted. I don't remember them having LED options on the site when I ordered it. I also asked for individually addressable leds, although I will probably just wire them in series.

  6. #6
    Single Speed Junkie
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    Larger? perhaps. ID is spot on at 20mm you may end up filing off some material where the boards were joined.

    Online metals has a 15.85 mm ID x 25.4 mm OD x 4.76 mm WALL 6061 T6 TUBE (direct link did not work) Hog some material out of the center to 20mm place a small alloy or copper slug in the center all held in place by thermal epoxy.

    I might have some copper material in the bin to turn down, but need to double check.

  7. #7
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    I'm trying to figure out how waterproof I want to make this. The optic has almost zero room outside of the individual optics themselves. So I'm already cutting some of the light off, although that probably doesn't matter much.

    I guess my approach will be to glue down the board with AA, and then try to figure out if I will want to be able to change the optic.

    Pictures later after I take them

  8. #8
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    You will be fine with the tight optic it is a real nice beam
    Mine is glued in with silicon

  9. #9
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    troutie,
    thanks for the ratification. Now if I can just figure out how to spread the silicon without obscuring the lens.

    I'd like to use it this weekend, so the sooner I figure everything out the better.

  10. #10
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    My design may be different in that I have glass over the optic, so I don't really need the silicone to hold it that solidly, but I just put a dab into each hole in the PCB and stuck the optic into it. It seemed pretty firm once cured and I think I can change it if I really need to.

  11. #11
    Single Speed Junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by unterhausen
    Now if I can just figure out how to spread the silicon without obscuring the lens.
    I found that a simple tooth pick works well for this. Just get a little bit on the tip and place it where needed.

  12. #12
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    Here is my prefered method .
    you dont want to get any on the optics inside the light it will seriously effect the output.

    make sure you have a small gap all round the optic say .2 mm clearance

    then put a piece of tape on the face of the optic cut small by say .5 mm

    install your optic with the small bit of silicon on the legs or in the holes on the pcb

    then just squish it in from the front with your finger or a cotton tip
    clean it up and carefully remove the tape and let it set .

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