What optics, wires, rc jack for Deestas CNC housing?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    Formerly NattyBoh74...
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    What optics, wires, rc jack for Deestas CNC housing?

    Hey guys
    Just wondering what optics from this page are needed for XR-Es? ( http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...l+LC1&x=6&y=11 )

    Also what size wire is needed ( that I can get from radio shack ) for the internal soldering?

    What wire is needed/hook up needed for the battery to CNC housing? I'm running turboferrets battery holder.

    Lastly, is the the correct female RC 2.5mm jack? ( http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102489 ) Is this the correct male end? ( http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102488 )

    How do I solder the wires on the male end? Seems as if there is no terminals, I'll check it when I get it.

    Thanks fellas.

  2. #2
    Austin, TX
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    I assembled my DStar Altair™ a couple nights ago so I can answer a couple of these questions..

    Because of what Bram had available I used one SS and two M LC1 lenses. Psycho Mike, on troutie's recommendation, used I think an SS, M, and Rectangle optic config, but you'll want to look for that post on it. I'm interested as to how that turned out because I feel there's a wide gap in beam spread between the Soft Spot and the Medium. A Rectangle could be interesting to replace one of my Mediums.

    I used 22ga stranded wire purchased from Fry's and it was the largest diameter that could possibly fit in the holes on the bFlex driver board. Worked very well for everything internal.

    For the battery to enclosure cabling, a salvaged coiled cell phone charger cable would work well. I used a combination of Trail-Tech connector cables from BatterySpace.com for my wiring. They're quite thick - the photos are deceiving.

    I'm pretty sure that panel-mount 2.5mm jack is not the right size. The power jack hole measured around 7.7mm before I bored it out to accept a grommet. Your linked jack is 7/16" - about 11.1mm and way too big. Hopefully someone else can quote the right number for it. To solder the male 2.5mm plug you will need to unscrew the black shroud pictured. Inside are two lugs to solder to the tip and ring of the plug.

    Good luck

  3. #3
    Homer
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    LC1-Rectangles are available now. Havent tried them myself though...

    As for the wires I use short flying leads (waterproof 2,5mm connectors from Sigma) on the side of the housing. Mounted with a rubber grommet, I also have the big strain relief screw-on connectors but that was a bit too much IMHO. It now looks much sleeker.

    I do the internal wiring with 0,25mm2 (AWG30?) silicone measuring wire. This is extremely flexible and doesnt melt or burn when you overheat it during soldering. Use a few different colors for switch, incoming and outgoing power to keep things organized and easy to recognize.

    Since I havent got any pictures of my D-star, this is how it looks (some color as I've made my D-star, which you can see in the background)

    Need optics for DIY bike lights?

  4. #4
    Double-metric mtb man
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    Quote Originally Posted by Village
    I assembled my DStar Altair™ a couple nights ago so I can answer a couple of these questions..

    Because of what Bram had available I used one SS and two M LC1 lenses. Psycho Mike, on troutie's recommendation, used I think an SS, M, and Rectangle optic config, but you'll want to look for that post on it. I'm interested as to how that turned out because I feel there's a wide gap in beam spread between the Soft Spot and the Medium. A Rectangle could be interesting to replace one of my Mediums.
    Hey Village,

    The Super Spot / Rectangle / Diffuser combo is pretty sweet for Deesta's housing. I took mine out for a shake-down on Wed. night. I was able to see the big Jack Rabbits running scared at 100-150m pretty easy thanks to the punch of the SS. The diffuser (D) gives pretty good close range light and the rectangular (Rect) lense give really nice mid-range light (make sure you orient it horizontally ). Pushing 1A, my Altair was pretty much washing out my 15W halogen at the mid-distance (rectangular range) where I usually have it set.

    Mron...I stripped out the 18ga wire from that cable I was mentioning. It is about the biggest wire you want to try to thread through the bFlex holes, but it will also work (it was convenient to use it in my case).
    As if four times wasn't enough-> Psycho Mike's 2013 Ride to Conquer Cancer Page

    Moran? Let your opinion be free -> F88me

  5. #5
    MTBiker
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    is this the jack you're looking for?

    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=SC1048-ND
    We can bomb the world to pieces, but we can't bomb it into peace -Michael Franti

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: HEY HEY ITS HENDO's Avatar
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    moeb, did you read the customer reviews on the jackplug http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102488 eww
    kuksul08, that switchcraft socket is top quality
    brum, is that red ano? nice colour!
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  7. #7
    Formerly NattyBoh74...
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    hendo, no not yet. I was making sure it was the right one.

    If someone could, can they link me to correct optics, wire, and connectors on digi-key's website so I can make one purchase there ( so they come all at the same time )

    I have the bflex on order, turboferret, LEDs, Batteries, charger all paid for and on their way.

    WAiting for the housing to give me the go, I still need optics, RC jack for housing ( female ) and RC jack for battery end ( male ) I also need the coiled wire for the battery to housing and need wire for the housing internal soldering.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by kuksul08
    is this the jack you're looking for?

    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=SC1048-ND
    Keep in mind this is not a waterproof connector

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