Upgrading the emitter on the MagicShine MJ808?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Upgrading the emitter on the MagicShine MJ808?

    So I have a couple old... 8+ years, pre GeoMan Gear battery debacle, MagicShine light. It so old, I think it was just called the MagicShine, the MJ808 model number was added with a later revision (I think).

    Anyway, it still works, the GeoMan Gear batteries are still performing well enough, but as a helmet light, its a bit out-classed by my bar light. So I am considering just upgrading the emitter for a bit more light output. But a few questions:

    • Has anyone done this before?

    • Based on the picture below, this should be pretty easy to de- solder, right?

    • Can anyone recommend an emitter that will work in this light, and where to get it?

    Upgrading the emitter on the MagicShine MJ808?-img_3517.jpg
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  2. #2
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    • yes
    • yes
    • XM-L2 on copper 20mm pcb (for example KD, but there are more)
      Some has tried it also with MT-G2 and very likely it could be done with some other 6V led like Cree XHP70.2 to get floddy beam

    PS. You might need to elevate led pcb by 1.5-2mm to get proper beam with stock reflector.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the info!

    I'm pretty inexperienced with all this, so bear with me....

    So do those 20mm PCB's come with some sort of "wire" to make the connection to the light body, or am I going to need to solder a bit of copper on those attachment pads to do that?

    Also, that seems like an extremely reasonable price. I'd be wiling to pay a bit more for a more efficient emitter if there are better options... also don't mind not spending that much money if this will be a significant upgrade.

    Definitely looking to keep the spot beam pattern since its a helmet light.
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  4. #4
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    Wait a second: am I supposed to unscrew those two screws, de-solder the red and black wire and remove that entire white piece??
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  5. #5
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    Yes. That white piece is led pcb (sometimes called led star when has dents/holes around). You change that along with led. Do not forget to use thermal paste under pcb.

    To keep narrow beam, you need to choose small led die (phospor area). XM-L2 is pretty good choice. And I would add some resistor on driver to boost output. If you can solder 1206 smd resistor I can tell which one. Would need to dig in the past....

  6. #6
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    If you are in the states, I'd pick one of the XML-2 on 20mm stars from here....

    XM-L2

    You would need to choose the tint you want. For absolute maximum light you'll be in the cooler tints like 1A. For more usable light you'll want a warmer tint like 4C.

    You will unsolder the red and black wires from the original LED star and use those to connect to the new star.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    And I would add some resistor on driver to boost output. If you can solder 1206 smd resistor I can tell which one. Would need to dig in the past....
    I will research this more tonight as I have time, but just looking at it quickly, it appears a bit complex for my skill level. Any site you would recommend for guidance? Where exactly would the resistor go?
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  8. #8
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    See two resistors marked R500 and R100 on right picture.
    Upgrading the emitter on the MagicShine MJ808?-magic_9.jpg
    https://www.light-test.info/images/s...v2/magic_9.jpg
    Hopefuly you have such driver. Even if you don't the other are same type.
    If you are not skilled to solder, just leave it as is and change led only as suggested above.

  9. #9
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    Well, this is the best photo I can get of my circuit board, clearly not the same design as the above photo.

    In any event, Iím sure that changing out a resistor is beyond my abilities.

    What emitter do folks recommend for a wide beam? I have a second one of these lights that I use as a back-up handlebar light at times.




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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by FishMan473 View Post
    ......What emitter do folks recommend for a wide beam? I have a second one of these lights that I use as a back-up handlebar light at times.
    The beam shape of an MJ808 is mostly the reflector size and shape and less about the emitter. The wide angle lens from Action LED is the best way to spread the light out on an MJ808.

    https://www.action-led-lights.com/co...ide-angle-lens

    Just swap the emitter for an XML and install that lens and you'll have your brighter, wider beam.
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  11. #11
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    Upgrading the emitter on the MagicShine MJ808?

    I like using the lens instead, that would allow me to swap the second lamp between spot and flood purposes as needed.

    At the moment, a piece of scotch tape is my method for creating a ďfloodĒ beam pattern. Iím sure that lens will be considerably more effective.

    Thanks!


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  12. #12
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    What do you replace the resistors with?

    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    See two resistors marked R500 and R100 on right picture.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    https://www.light-test.info/images/s...v2/magic_9.jpg
    Hopefuly you have such driver. Even if you don't the other are same type.
    If you are not skilled to solder, just leave it as is and change led only as suggested above.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    What do you replace the resistors with?
    You replace them with a resistor of lower resistance value or solder a second resistor on top the original. Adding a second resistor on top puts the resistors in parallel which results in lower resistance. End result is less voltage drop across the resistor(s). Voltage drop is used to determine current flow.
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  14. #14
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    Right, but exactly what ohm resistor, and where do you find it. The OP said he isnít too technical, so some specifics may help.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    You replace them with a resistor of lower resistance value or solder a second resistor on top the original. Adding a second resistor on top puts the resistors in parallel which results in lower resistance. End result is less voltage drop across the resistor(s). Voltage drop is used to determine current flow.

  15. #15
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    FWIW, the OP is staying the hell away from the resistors. Removing and resoldering little wires is at the limits of my comfort zone.


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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by FishMan473 View Post
    FWIW, the OP is staying the hell away from the resistors. Removing and resoldering little wires is at the limits of my comfort zone.


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    How about soldering another resistor on top of the existing one to the same contacts?
    FWIW, I changed the emitter on a Magicshine clone yesterday. I only had a 16mm neutral white XML2 in stock, and had to do some mods to make the reflector fit.
    I ordered the wide beam lens too and added a cheap GoPro adapter, figuring spending $6 plus shipping is all this light is worth. (Came free with a battery order from KD) I wonít bother adding resistors.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    Right, but exactly what ohm resistor, and where do you find it. The OP said he isnít too technical, so some specifics may help.
    AFAIK, it is not universal. Depends on the other components and topology of the driver.
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  18. #18
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    There is one type of chips used in Magicshine MJ808 drivers (SM5241/QX5241) and the other (LEDA) in most clones. Main difference between the two is different sense voltage.

    SM5241/QX5241 uses 0.2V
    LEDA uses 0.25V

    for feedback voltage measured over sense resistors on HI mode.

    To calculate current over leds you use formula

    I = Vs/R so

    I = 0.2/R or I = 0.25/R respectively

    R is resistance of both resistors in parallel so you need to calculate right combination. On the picture above (Magicshine driver) there are R100 (0.1 Ohm) and R500 (0.5 Ohm) resistors which gives R = 0.083. I'm using PARALLEL RESISTOR CALCULATOR to calculate R.

    So I = 0.2/R = 0.2/0.083 = 2.4 A

    If you want to raise the current to 3A you should add R330 over existing two.

    Then 0.2/0.665 = 3.0 A

    Same you do with LEDA chips, just use 0.25 as sense voltage.

    You can identify sense resistors being SMD 1206 size and marked with Rxxx (R means value starts with comma 0. thus below 1 Ohm).

    I hope I've clearify things learned over the years from the other people, to be honest.

  19. #19
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    Hmm, the new emitter is positively tiny compared to the original, and the pattern of the cut-outs on the star are different. Did I order the wrong parts?




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  20. #20
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    Nope, you have a newer and better emitter is all.

    Unsolder the red and black wires. Remove the screws and take off the old star. Put a thin smear of thermal compound on the back of the new star and fasten down with the screws. Solder the red wire to the pad marked + an the black wire to the pa marked -.

    For the best beam pattern, you may need to adjust the position of the new emitter in the old reflector.
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  21. #21
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    I agree somewhat. Emitter is OK and Noctigon is the best but you would need to elevate it by 1.5-2mm to get proper focus in the reflector. So before you put any thermal compound/paste I suggest you to try different elevations. Runing light for 10 seconds to see the beam won't harm the led.

    Some copper plate under Noctigon would do the best. For best thermal transfer they can be soldered, but led can be unsoldered of Noction if you are not doing it fast so take care if you choose to do it that way. You may solder it only around perimeter. At least use thermal coumpound if you not going to solder things together.

    Also don't forget to electricaly isolate alu reflector from wires by inserting some thin washer made of plastic or some other thermaly stabil material like Capton tape.

  22. #22
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    Rather than trying to shim the star, I'm pretty sure you can make up the height/focus difference with an o-ring or shim between the reflector and the lens or between the lens and bezel. I has been over 6 or 7 years since I had an MJ808 opened up though so maybe I'm wrong.
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    Could be, I never tried it that way.

  24. #24
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    I've got some history here since we've been selling and servicing Magicshine MJ-808's since they first came out. When they changed from the SSC-P7 led to the CREE XM-L the only change to the light was to add a spacer to center the reflector and make sure it didn't short the led. No change to the driver or reflector so you can change to the newest XM-L2 and get a nice boost in performance. Everything stays centered on it's own but you may want to put a little tape on the bottom of the reflector. It makes a very spotty beam but as mentioned above our wide angle lens spreads it out nicely.
    Jim Harger
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  25. #25
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    Well, after a long delay due to the holidays and more pressing matters, I finally got around to changing one of the emitters in my old MagicShine light.

    First off, thanks to everyone for your help, it really made going through the process easy.

    As for the results, the good news is that I was successful in replacing the emitter.

    The bad news is the beam pattern which you can see in the below. Despite putting a bit of copper plate below the star (which was quite a bit of work to cut to size), there is a fair gap between the top of emitter and the bottom of the reflector.

    Does anyone know how I might bridge the gap? If this light isn't perfect its not the end of the world since I plan to use it as more of a flood beam on the bars.

    Any suggestions for raising the emitter further for the second light I have? It probably took me 30 minutes to cut the copper plate to size, I'd rather avoid doubling up on such a spacer.
    Upgrading the emitter on the MagicShine MJ808?-img_5037.jpg
    Upgrading the emitter on the MagicShine MJ808?-img_5041.jpg
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  26. #26
    Action LED Lights
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    Fishman,
    I can sell you an XM-L2 on a Magicshine aluminum star. They are thicker and you wonít have to worry about raising it. The LEDís I have are 6500K the same as the original.
    PM me if interested.

    I do have some 5000K ones if you would prefer.
    Jim Harger
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  27. #27
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    Picked up a CREE XHP70.2 P2 5C NEUTRAL WHITE 4000K LED EMITTER on a 20mm copper star from Kaidomain and soldered it into an ancient Magicshine clone. Alone it was very bright but seemed to have a bluish tint exacerbated by the orange peel reflector, which made the beam ringy and of course separated out the blue and yellow. So threw on a couple of Action LED Lights elliptical lenses at 90ļ from each other and back to back. Gives a beautiful soft warm beam, more rosy than yellow or blue.

    Upgrading the emitter on the MagicShine MJ808?-f8c02d36-b1fa-447e-9a74-bcdbdbd30e56.jpg

    Upgrading the emitter on the MagicShine MJ808?-9706d318-6634-43cf-a8cd-aca715c819e3.jpg

    Too bad it keeps raining, will have to wait to get beam shots am such a wuss about weather.
    Last edited by andychrist; 04-26-2019 at 09:49 PM.

  28. #28
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    Upgrading the emitter on the MagicShine MJ808?-1ae39d4e-d1da-451d-92fb-f322584f0025.jpeg

    Found this on Ali Express. Replaces the gasket from original XM L2 emitter.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-m...24804c4dRQb2Gz

    25 days shipping. So if anyone here could use any PM me within the month, I should have five left over.

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