The Tripple Cuboid- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    The Tripple Cuboid

    Here's what I've knocked up over the last couple of days, just need to cut a 24mm round lexan lense..and decide wether it's a bar or helmet light..
    Oring groove on the body on the right..

    Rear of front cover, step for lexan lense

    assembled


    hopefully this shows its size.. 36mm x 36mm square x 40mm length


    Plenty of heat sinking here, where's thoses 20mm quads quazzle?

  2. #2
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    Another stunning light!

    How's this for a crystal cover? Pick your diameter.
    http://www.esslinger.com/roundminera...80mmthick.aspx

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent
    Another stunning light!

    How's this for a crystal cover? Pick your diameter.
    http://www.esslinger.com/roundminera...80mmthick.aspx
    Thanks.

    I was going to be smug git and cut one out on the rotary table... plus a small step on the front for another small oring..

  4. #4
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    What is the weight?
    How do you plan to make the cable entry?
    CNC LED light housing for DIY projects

  5. #5
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    They look nice, I'm sure you could sell a few of those.

  6. #6
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    Thanks Mr Lee.. These are pretty easy to make...So ill probably knock up a few more as i have plenty of stock left over..
    The weight is about 80grams..
    Here's the lexan lense i just knocked up..needed some double sided sticky tape to hold it down while cutting... used my fingers instead



    Not decided on the cable entry yet...might look into those M6 cable glands..maybe..

  7. #7
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    Why do you need a cover at all? This lexan cover will take at least 10% of the light. Total optic loss will be about 25%.I would use the carclo lens without any cover -- it's cheap to replace if scratched.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Itess
    Why do you need a cover at all? This lexan cover will take at least 10% of the light. Total optic loss will be about 25%.I would use the carclo lens without any cover -- it's cheap to replace if scratched.
    I imagine you need another layer to get a seal with the O-ring.
    Is there less light loss with a $1.25 watch mineral crystal?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent
    I imagine you need another layer to get a seal with the O-ring.
    Is there less light loss with a $1.25 watch mineral crystal?
    And to stop the optic from falling out..

    If i didnt use a lense, i would have to make the front hole smaller than the size of the optic to hold it in..which would result in loss of light..as it would overlap the optics..

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    And to stop the optic from falling out..

    If i didnt use a lense, i would have to make the front hole smaller than the size of the optic to hold it in..which would result in loss of light..as it would overlap the optics..
    0.5mm is more than enough to hold the optics almost without any loss of light. Even 0.25mm is enough. You can use silicone or a silicone ring to seal the optics.

  11. #11
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    I'd probably make the hole smaller by about 3mm in diameter and use a 1/32" gasket. You should lose less light than with the cover, it will weight less, cost will be less and you may save time for the build. None of this really amounts to much unless you're doing a run of them.

  12. #12
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    oh well.. cant say im going to grumble about 100 lumens if your theory is correct..

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    oh well.. cant say im going to grumble about 100 lumens if your theory is correct..
    What is the VLT of the material? That will tell you how much you will lose.

  14. #14
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    How many lights on these forums have some sort of lens in the front of them? And now it's a no no??
    have a close look at a the optics i have used, they dont have a flat surface, each 10mm optic has a hole in the middle..a place where mud and crap can get stuck in..how much light am i then going to loose?
    and cleaning it could be a right pain in the ass. lexan lense is a simply wipe clean..

    Taken from the manufactures pdf..
    Light Transmission
    Transparent Lexan Exell D sheet have excellent light transmission, between
    84 and 87%. However for buildings in hot climates or with south facing
    aspects, Lexan Exell D is available in translucent bronze, grey and opal white.
    Lexan Exell D is essential opaque to all wave lengths below 385 nanometers.
    This useful shielding property can prevent discoloration of sensitive materials
    placed under or behind Lexan Exell D sheet.

  15. #15
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    Nice work Goldigger!
    If they are cog then you have just built a cracker of a bar light and the losses will be kind of irrelevant at that range, from my experience at least.
    Good looking build

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    Nice work Goldigger!
    If they are cog then you have just built a cracker of a bar light and the losses will be kind of irrelevant at that range, from my experience at least.
    Good looking build
    Cheers emu..
    Whats cog??

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Itess
    Why do you need a cover at all? This lexan cover will take at least 10% of the light. Total optic loss will be about 25%.I would use the carclo lens without any cover -- it's cheap to replace if scratched.
    If I use an optic that is flat or lightly textured on the front, I do not use a cover. Those are easy to clean when a blob of mud hits the light. The optics with a recessed spot in them are almost impossible to clean on a ride and seem to lose a significant amount of light if muck gets in the recess. I make a cover for them of .75mm lexan sheet.

    Gluing the optic in with silicone simplifies the build and is easily cut away if and when an optic replacement is required. I put a 45 degree bevel the front of the optic opening about .75mm wide. I cover the face of the optic with blue painters tape and trim it flush to the edge of the optic. After inserting the optic, I use a toothpick to fill the bevel with the silicone. The tape prevents silicone from making a mess of the optic if one gets a bit sloppy (or has a beer or two while light assembly occurs). After the silicone has partially cured, I carefully peel the tape off.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    If I use an optic that is flat or lightly textured on the front, I do not use a cover. Those are easy to clean when a blob of mud hits the light. The optics with a recessed spot in them are almost impossible to clean on a ride and seem to lose a significant amount of light if muck gets in the recess. I make a cover for them of .75mm lexan sheet.

    Gluing the optic in with silicone simplifies the build and is easily cut away if and when an optic replacement is required. I put a 45 degree bevel the front of the optic opening about .75mm wide. I cover the face of the optic with blue painters tape and trim it flush to the edge of the optic. After inserting the optic, I use a toothpick to fill the bevel with the silicone. The tape prevents silicone from making a mess of the optic if one gets a bit sloppy (or has a beer or two while light assembly occurs). After the silicone has partially cured, I carefully peel the tape off.
    How strong is the 0.75mm lexan? I was just looking on ebay where i got my 2mm.. it says the item will be supplied rolled up and you can cut it with scissors..

  19. #19
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    COG is what happens when a smart phone is smarter than its user
    It was meant to read, are they XPG?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    COG is what happens when a smart phone is smarter than its user
    It was meant to read, are they XPG?
    Yes mate, its one of quazzles tripple XPG L332MC tripples 1100 lumens

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    How strong is the 0.75mm lexan? I was just looking on ebay where i got my 2mm.. it says the item will be supplied rolled up and you can cut it with scissors..
    I use the 1mm thick and cut it with scissors. It has been strong enough so far.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    How strong is the 0.75mm lexan? I was just looking on ebay where i got my 2mm.. it says the item will be supplied rolled up and you can cut it with scissors..
    Well,it's not bulletproof. Really can't imagine anything that would happen on a mt bike that would break it. I can not imagine rolling 2mm lexan into much of a coil, it would be huge. Cutting with scissors, no way. Maybe cut it with tin snips. The .75mm can be rolled into a 200mm coil pretty easily, and can be cut with good scissors.

  23. #23
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    Still too much material in use! You've got a pudle in bullmastif housing!

  24. #24
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    Smart design and nice lines. Very professional looking....

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toaster79
    Still too much material in use! You've got a pudle in bullmastif housing!
    lucky its waterproof then...poodle..
    With regards to the to much material.. would you say that if i told you it had a rear cover and space to accommodate a Maxflex? to drive a quad xp-g at 1300ma?? 1686 lumens..minus losses of the lexan..

    This light is for a friend who only road rides.. i dont want it over heating on him if hes stopped somewhere..

    edit..just noticed the quad optics are 24mm rather than 20mm
    Last edited by Goldigger; 12-30-2010 at 07:20 AM.

  26. #26
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    Well that poodle sure knows how to bite. Didn't know the numbers, so i take my word back. Although it's really nice design.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    Well,it's not bulletproof. Really can't imagine anything that would happen on a mt bike that would break it. I can not imagine rolling 2mm lexan into much of a coil, it would be huge. Cutting with scissors, no way. Maybe cut it with tin snips. The .75mm can be rolled into a 200mm coil pretty easily, and can be cut with good scissors.
    Sorry i meant the .75mm is rolled..makes it sound like rolling up card

    Cant roll the 2mm..far to stiff

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toaster79
    Well that poodle sure knows how to bite. Didn't know the numbers, so i take my word back. Although it's really nice design.
    This poodle is a wolf in a poodles clothes
    Fitting the quad 24mm optics is a bit of a squeeze so might just use a cutter tripple and a maxflex which would give 3x421 @ 1300ma 1265 lumens minus loses.. I would imagine they get pretty hot then?

    I could probably shorten the housing by 5 or 10mm, but not really worth the effort for the weight of a bag of crisps..

  29. #29
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    Just install everything and call it good. If you ever make another one then you know where you can make changes to the design.

  30. #30
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    I wired it up today..temporary wire untill i pick up some 3 core..
    its also lost 4mm off the length..so its 36mm square..
    I also disagree that its to much material.. it gets warm pretty quickly..


  31. #31
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    Man that is some tidy machining. I can't see the joins between front / back cover and body at all, except for maybe in one of the early pics. Really nice work!!

    Are you using 8 screws/bolts or 4 bolts and captive nuts, if that last one makes sense?
    If it's 8 screws/bolts how have you managed to not stuff up the thread for the front ones when you've cut the thread for the back ones?

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by emu26
    Man that is some tidy machining. I can't see the joins between front / back cover and body at all, except for maybe in one of the early pics. Really nice work!!

    Are you using 8 screws/bolts or 4 bolts and captive nuts, if that last one makes sense?
    If it's 8 screws/bolts how have you managed to not stuff up the thread for the front ones when you've cut the thread for the back ones?
    Thanks emu
    8 screws..4 in front, 4 in back..
    I made sure that i didn't drill through into the opposite ones, so on the front face i drilled 16mm in depth and the same on the back...giving me 4mm inbetween.

    I drilled the holes with the covers in place.. bolts have 10mm thread length.

  33. #33
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    I was just going to ask the same as emu but now I know I'll ask this instead:

    How do you get the beveled edge around the optic hole?

    Nice work.

  34. #34
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    Sorry troutie i just noticed what you called your all in one light over on CPF..
    I'll have to think up another name now..

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty
    I was just going to ask the same as emu but now I know I'll ask this instead:

    How do you get the beveled edge around the optic hole?

    Nice work.
    Normally i would tilt the head on the mill either right or left 40 degrees so that the slot drill is at an angle, the work piece is mounted to the rotary table.

    I didnt want to do this as it would mean that i need to tram the head on the mill again.

    So with the work mounted to the rotary table i just used a ball nose end mill..
    using the rounded edge of the end mill to cut the bevel..
    Hope that make sense? I can always take some pics of it next time i do it if you want?

  36. #36
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    Got what you mean I use a ballnose to countersink my screw heads.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by yetibetty
    Got what you mean I use a ballnose to countersink my screw heads.
    Wouldn't an drill point end mill work better?

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    Sorry troutie i just noticed what you called your all in one light over on CPF..
    I'll have to think up another name now..

    No Worries Goldigger the world is big enough for 2 cuboids .

    Ace looking little light
    whats the mounting arrangment

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by kan3
    Wouldn't an drill point end mill work better?
    You mean a chamfer end mill? If so cant find them in the UK.. besides i already have a ball nose end mill, using something different means spending more money. Not really worth it for the minor difference.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    No Worries Goldigger the world is big enough for 2 cuboids .

    Ace looking little light
    whats the mounting arrangment
    Cheers
    This one needs to be bar mounted for a roadie, so i'll have a bash at making a bar mount/clamp.
    How secure is the bastid style mount?

    I do have a spare lumicycle mount, but thinking its a bit big for this little fella?

  41. #41
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    these half mounts work pretty well with an Oring



    I have a lot of these spare if you want a few

  42. #42
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    Great looking light light GD. You've well and truely got the hang of your mill by the looks of it.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    You mean a chamfer end mill? If so cant find them in the UK.. besides i already have a ball nose end mill, using something different means spending more money. Not really worth it for the minor difference.
    Drill point are different than a chamfer end mill. I was actually thinking more for countersinking than beveling unless you wanted a flat edge. They're actually very handy to have and hardly cost more than a standard flat/ball end mill in the same material/coating.

    Here is a link, these ones are 90deg cobalt uncoated

    http://www.msdiscount.com/columnar.a..._site=STARTOOL

  44. #44
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    I milled my own clamp today.. ill probably mill out some more material to make it even lighter..



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    You mentioned somewhere that this unit still gets warm even though of its size. If you do another one you could always split the fins in half for quite a bit more surface area.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by kan3
    You mentioned somewhere that this unit still gets warm even though of its size. If you do another one you could always split the fins in half for quite a bit more surface area.
    It will be fine on the move... it probably doesnt even get to 60 degrees

  47. #47
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    Does it run cooler when on the bars?

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrLee
    Does it run cooler when on the bars?
    Not on them bars as there not attached to a bike
    My bars are FSA carbon so no heat transfer..
    Heat is really not an issue, so nothing to worry about. Just surprised how warm it gets after 5 mins using it in the house. No where near what my triple P7 gets temp wise..

  49. #49
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    milled some little pointless holes in the clamp, as it makes it lighter and looks better


  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    My bars are FSA carbon so no heat transfer..
    Glue a piece of rubber sheet (old inner tube bit) to that mount to protect the carbon bar. I have done that with my metal mounts on Easton carbon bars for a couple years now with good result.

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    Glue a piece of rubber sheet (old inner tube bit) to that mount to protect the carbon bar. I have done that with my metal mounts on Easton carbon bars for a couple years now with good result.
    Already got that sorted, Cheers
    I have some rubber sleave that goes on some large jubilee clips that go on a 12litre dive cyclinder.
    Just chopped of the edges and glued it on...gives the clamp some grip too.
    This light is for a friend, so i need to copy it quickly..well the clamp at least as i just put the ali in the vice and made it without any plans

    Dont want to take the laquer of these babies
    Last edited by Goldigger; 01-10-2011 at 06:11 PM.

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    Dont want to take the laquer of these babies
    Indeed! Mine will have to go hide in the dark now.

  53. #53
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    Like the openings in the mount. Some things are done just for style.

  54. #54
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    Goldigger, I like the mount too, " pointless little holes" = blingtastic

  55. #55
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    Thanks guys

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    Plenty of heat sinking here, where's thoses 20mm quads quazzle?
    hice housing, should be enough for a quad. I'm trying to fit all 4 leds + programmable regulator into a small OD 24mm case. I'm still on the fence regarding the driver topology so cannot commit on exact size now.

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