'tis the time to make a single XP-G light present, tra la la de la- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 25 of 25
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,374

    'tis the time to make a single XP-G light present, tra la la de la

    so, I had a spare XP-G R5 and Regina kicking around, an old bflex originally destined for another since abandoned project and a bag full of recycled 18650 cells. Plus, my brother has just had an utterly terrible year, so I figured I'd cheer him up with a new commuter/ potential "get bro into night riding" light. (on the flip side, if he didn't want it, I'd make good use of it ).

    The idea behind this light was to use materials I already had at hand from a previous build ( here ), with similar techniques but simpler. The light is simply a piece 1in.sq alu tubing with the LED, driver, switch and power lead all carried on a sled inside (also made from 1in.sq tubing, cut into Us and JB welded together). The whole thing is then bolted together with a Cateye spacer and handlebar bracket.

    The pics:

    sled, with LED and switch attached


    from the bottom, showing the tapped holes


    showing the housing plus brackets


    starting to wire everything up (power cable is an ex-Nokia phone charger cable - using it's strain relief bits - due to China post not passing on my Magicshine cable )


    bflex driver wired in place


    from the other side


    showing how everything's going to fit together, with Regina in place (looks like some kind of rocket test bed)


    with some anti-static stuff wrapped around the driver to ward off possible shorts


    strain relief on 2s battery pack, kindly donated by some old universal phone charger thing


    wired up and working


    beamshots! Bucket is ~10m, shed thing is ~20m and the tree another 2 or 3m behind that. Ground slopes away slightly and there's a full moon, so not exactly ideal.

    test at 6s/ F3.2 (ISO?! no idea)


    crappy old EL320 at 2s/ F3.2, soon to be replace by a copy of this, providing I don't freeze to death in the garage making it. Used 2s as the high shots at 6s started to completely wash out.

    commuting on dark rutted bike paths with this is not a lot of fun

    single XP-G @350mA (2s/F3.2)


    single XP-G @1000A (2s/F3.2)


    For dual XP-G R5/ Regina, check out the build thread I linked to above.

    needless to say, it's quite a bit better than a 4yr old EL320 And even more needless to say, I can't wait to make one for myself. My bro' better bleeding appreciate this!

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    46
    Matt,
    Your brother is a lucky guy. Where did you buy the bar mount?

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1,322
    Very nice documentation..
    Cool light.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    Great use of available materials Good job

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ofroad'bent's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1,475
    20mm star- you could fit an L333 triple board there too, no?

    You could make the thing half the length as you wouldn't need to squeeze the driver in, as long as it's heat-sinked enough.
    I like the "sled" idea.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,374
    Quote Originally Posted by SBJohn
    Matt,
    Your brother is a lucky guy. Where did you buy the bar mount?
    thanks! Hopefully it'll balance out some his recent lack of luck/ good fortune.
    Bracket bits: I got the part no.s from Cateye's woeful website and ordered them through my LBS.

    H-32 standard bar bracket I prefer the older style bracket to the new flex-notsotight one, although any of the Cateye brackets work with that spacer

    spacer at bottom I trimmed a little bit of plastic from the latches to make it slide better and trimmed down the sides so it didn't stick out either side of the light body. I also cut some grooves on the housing where I was going to glue the spacer, to give it a bit of purchase. Just be careful with the glue (I used Gorilla glue) as I had to take mine off, clean all the glue off the latch, then screw it back on again
    Last edited by mattthemuppet; 12-20-2010 at 08:19 AM.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,374
    Quote Originally Posted by odtexas
    Very nice documentation..
    Cool light.
    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    Great use of available materials Good job
    thanks! It worked out pretty well I think. Only downside is that I have to give it away and keep using my crummy EL320

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,374
    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent
    20mm star- you could fit an L333 triple board there too, no?

    You could make the thing half the length as you wouldn't need to squeeze the driver in, as long as it's heat-sinked enough.
    I like the "sled" idea.
    I never even thought of that, didn't even know that Quazzle's boards are 20mm, which is pretty amazing. Hmm, have to have a think now! I'm going to be doing a copy of this with an old bflex and a bare XP-G emitter I'm getting in the post (don't ask how though, no idea yet), but the quazzle approach certainly appeals. Heatsinking's easy, I just have to bolt cutting CPU heatsinks on the side

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ofroad'bent's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1,475
    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet
    I never even thought of that, didn't even know that Quazzle's boards are 20mm, which is pretty amazing. Hmm, have to have a think now! I'm going to be doing a copy of this with an old bflex and a bare XP-G emitter I'm getting in the post (don't ask how though, no idea yet), but the quazzle approach certainly appeals. Heatsinking's easy, I just have to bolt cutting CPU heatsinks on the side
    Can you say "1000 lumens with multi-levels and a smaller housing" ?
    You could also opt for 800 lumens with a tight beam using the XP-E version, which I think is better for a helmet light.

    I think you could make the sled out of a single piece of 1" square, cut to a u-shape.
    You could make a quickie helmet mount out of an L-shaped piece of aluminum bar bolted to one side of the outer tube, allowing some up-down.

    How did you waterproof the back end?

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,374
    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent
    Can you say "1000 lumens with multi-levels and a smaller housing" ?
    I'm sure I could learn to

    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent
    I think you could make the sled out of a single piece of 1" square, cut to a u-shape.
    You could make a quickie helmet mount out of an L-shaped piece of aluminum bar bolted to one side of the outer tube, allowing some up-down.

    How did you waterproof the back end?
    the original design was exactly that, with a sku6190 driver from DX siliconed behind the LED (with a single or double/parallel battery driving it), but they never arrived in stock so I couldn't wait any longer and had to use my spare bflex. It would certainly have made it much smaller and neater than this one, though I think all the bells and whistles make the finished product much better. I the *flex drivers.

    waterproofing is done by putting a bead of silicone (odour free) around the inside lip, push the sled in then wipe of the excess. For the bottom bit at the back, it was more a case of wiping off excess HS paste then putting a small bead of silicone along the join with a toothpick.

    BTW, my bro is just about to start work at Williams F1 team, so hopefully he'll return the favour with some CNC-machined housings in the future. The team before the last one (Toyota) made him some carbon fibre fork bushing tools, so fingers crossed the new one is as friendly!

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Goldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,670
    Well expect to start seeing your lights on the F1 cars on the Singapore night race..

    Good job, and easily done.. I would have persevered with cutting some square Ali bar into slugs, then sanding them for a tight fit into the square tube.. that's if I only had hand tools..
    But then I like to make things difficult and time consuming..

  12. #12
    shining bright
    Reputation: cncwhiz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    367
    Lookin good man.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,374
    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    Well expect to start seeing your lights on the F1 cars on the Singapore night race..

    Good job, and easily done.. I would have persevered with cutting some square Ali bar into slugs, then sanding them for a tight fit into the square tube.. that's if I only had hand tools..
    But then I like to make things difficult and time consuming..
    I never thought of that, I'll have to mention it to him With that kind of budget, just imagine what sort of lights you could make!

    tried it out tonight (just had to, couldn't help myself!) and it was supposed to be used on the bars, but my old flex-crap broke when I was fitting it, so I ended up wedging it in one of my helmet vents and using a velcro strap to hold it in place. Worked really well and I'd probably say for most trails @1A it would be all you need. Obviously, I had to run both it and my dual XP-G headlamp @1A all the time - it was sweet. Made me absolutely fly along

    I think he's going to get a $20 iTunes card for Christmas instead now

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,374
    Quote Originally Posted by cncwhiz
    Lookin good man.
    thanks It has nothing on your CNC'd wonders, but it does the job and no one can see it in the dark!

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BrianMc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    4,439
    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet
    ...it does the job and no one can see it in the dark!
    I thought seeing it in the dark was kind of the point...Ohh you mean seeing the body not the beam! Love the use whatcha got design.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,374
    Quote Originally Posted by BrianMc
    I thought seeing it in the dark was kind of the point...Ohh you mean seeing the body not the beam! Love the use whatcha got design.
    thanks Brian! Now trying to convince a friend to let me build him a quazzle set up, so I can play with cool stuff without spending any money

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ofroad'bent's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1,475
    Matt, I bet you could sell a little DIY kit set-
    Tubing (Enough for housing and tiny sled), switch, wire connector, cable gland, lexan lens- just need to add a Quazzle board and optic.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,374
    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent
    Matt, I bet you could sell a little DIY kit set-
    Tubing (Enough for housing and tiny sled), switch, wire connector, cable gland, lexan lens- just need to add a Quazzle board and optic.
    you're right, I think that would be a neat idea and relatively straight forward to make too, even with a dremel. I would probably go down the "complete head unit" road if I did though, as almost all the time is in making the housing, tapping the threads etc, and I would imagine complete units would garner more of a premium over DIY. Cables would be a possible issue, although most types are available (not sure about Lupine/ L&M etc). I'll try one out on my friend and see how it goes

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ofroad'bent's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1,475
    Matt and I are both running off some Sled-type lights, just waiting for XM-Ls and L-flex to arrive.
    I'll get some pics soon of the housing and empty sled.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    570
    Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, right? I'll be looking forward to your housings and sleds. Have you given any thought to moving the lflex from behind the xm-l after George's comments? Add another "wing" to the sled? Or, do we need a thicker portion of aluminum on the sled where the xml and lflex mount?

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ofroad'bent's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1,475
    I'm thinking that as long as there's a good thermal path from the sled to the body it shouldn't matter as much as total heat sinking on the body. Definite thermal grease need between all bits.

    With a 60C cut-off, we'll soon find out if it needs some wings or such added to the exterior of the aluminum outer body.

    I suppose the other alternative is to make a smaller half- sled bracket from 3/4" L-shaped aluminum and mount it inside the 1" sled for the L-Flex, if heat is an issue.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,374
    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent
    I suppose the other alternative is to make a smaller half- sled bracket from 3/4" L-shaped aluminum and mount it inside the 1" sled for the L-Flex, if heat is an issue.
    had a similar idea, but at the end of the day the thermal path to the housing is via the sled, so wherever it's bolted to the sled it will still be thermally coupled to the LED. I think with thermal monitoring it should be a non-issue, though it may mandate more heatsinking than otherwise..

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BrianMc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    4,439
    You need coupling for the thermal cutoff to track actual LED junction temps well, but you don't want the LEDs using the driver's thermal pad as an alternate route, so it dumps heat into the driver. A separate thermal path for the driver to the sled should work very well. It will be a bit above the sled temp at the driver because of driver thermal output, close to, yet isolated from, the LED temperature.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,374
    Quote Originally Posted by BrianMc
    You need coupling for the thermal cutoff to track actual LED junction temps well, but you don't want the LEDs using the driver's thermal pad as an alternate route, so it dumps heat into the driver. A separate thermal path for the driver to the sled should work very well. It will be a bit above the sled temp at the driver because of driver thermal output, close to, yet isolated from, the LED temperature.
    ah, I get you now. The only issue with the sled design is the ID of the tubing which is 22.5mm - there's just enough space for the lflex as it is. I wonder if another flat piece of alu fitted to but not thermally coupled to the back of the LED plate, yet AA to the bottom of the sled would work well enough? One could use a thin rubber washer and some gorilla glue to hold it in place.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mattthemuppet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,374

    version 2-ish

    so I finally got round to making one of these for myself, plus one for a friend as a graduation present (Dr. Tracy FTW!) and a couple for cousins. Main changes were using b2flexes (lflex came out just after I bought these, which was a bugger) for 3 of them and Sugru for the cable seal/stress relief.

    b2flex required cutting the metal in the middle to make an angled pad to JBWeld it to (bflex at the front, bare sleds in the middle and b2flex already attached at the back)


    with a close up of the sugru strain relief


    I've had mine in my pannier for the last 2mths or so and it's still perfectly fine, no leaks either as far as I can tell.

    shot of the 3 b2flex lights (the bflex light had already been given away and was winding it's way through Louisiana)


    I'm running mine at 1.2A and it's really great to have a light I can actually see the road/ cycle path with, even if I do get some honks/flashes from oncoming drivers (hey, least they saw me, right?!). However, my JBWelding a bare emitter onto a piece of alu didn't work out so well (didn't stay straight for a start) so it'll get replaced with an XM-L and go into a rear light soon enough.

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.