Is there a US based site to buy LEDs?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Is there a US based site to buy LEDs?

    Is there a US based site that sells LEDs, Optics and Drivers?

    It seems like cutter or Dealextreme are the main places to buy leds and drivers.

    I had bad experiences ordering from dealextreme so I don't want to order from them again. Cutter is a better site in my opinion, but the shipping is a bit much, and it takes a while for your stuff to arrive.

    It would be great if there was a US based website that I could order from and have my items shipped to me in a week or less.

  2. #2
    Carbon8er
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    Depends on what you need.
    I stock some SSC P7 stuff on my web site.

    I ship same day via priority mail.
    Usually takes 2-3 days for US and 5+ days for international.

    Web site link is in my signature.

  3. #3
    Lets RIDE!
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    www.ledSupply.com

    They're in Vermont. They don't have the latest cutting-edge LEDs, but they have MC-Es and Q5 XR-Es, optics, and Buckpuck drivers. A little pricier than Cutter and DX, but you'll have your LEDs in your hand in days, rather than weeks or months.

    JZ
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  4. #4
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    +1 for Ledsuply, they are first class, I just wish they had more stuff so I could buy everything from them. To echo what Jim said, I can find things cheaper overseas, but if I want it soon, they are a good choice.

  5. #5
    I like bloody ankles
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    I like ledsupply also, and I've also had great luck with Shiningbeam, you need to search for "emitter" on their site since they don't have a separate section.

    http://www.shiningbeam.com

    another good source is the marketplace on candlepowerforums, just need to browse through and see what the guys are selling.

    http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/forumdisplay.php?f=13

  6. #6
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    Thanks for all the replies.

    I was thinking of making a MC-E light, Which both shiningbeam and ledsupply carry. So that's good.

    I was told to use a hipflex, but none of those sites carry it, are there any other drivers that I could use to power a MC-E?

  7. #7
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    DigiKey carries most of the Cree LEDs including the MC-E, but they are very expensive. They also carry some of the Ledil optics.

  8. #8
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    If you are in the US you should just get task led drivers like the hipflex straight from the source. www.taskled.com. Shipping is fast and cheap.

  9. #9
    I like bloody ankles
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    Like Bikerjay said, Taskled is in California and I don't think you can go wrong there.

    Shingingbeam sells a less expensive alternative in this 3 mode 2.5a driver. I've been playing with it and it seems ok so far, but I haven't built a light around it yet. I'm planning to build a single MC-E helmet light using it. The hipflex is more flexible, but almost double the size as well.

    http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/t...t-Board/Detail

  10. #10
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    I've been eyeing that driver. Do you think it could be wired to an external 6V battery pack using the spring?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by dsjc
    Shingingbeam sells a less expensive alternative in this 3 mode 2.5a driver. I've been playing with it and it seems ok so far, but I haven't built a light around it yet. I'm planning to build a single MC-E helmet light using it. The hipflex is more flexible, but almost double the size as well.
    The bFlex or nFlex from Taskled is easily capable of a single MC-E and quite a bit smaller than the hipFlex and slightly cheaper. Some people have done dual MC-E lights with the bFlex or nFlex and run each LED at 500mA. Still lots of light. Using the battery monitoring and thermal sensing features of the Flex series drivers and you really have a nice DIY driver solution.

  12. #12
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    Well, I only have "room" to cram a 3/4" diameter driver in the housing.

    The P7 will be wired in parallel, so I need more than 1A, preferably 2.5 - 2.8A in "high" mode.

    My fat fingers were no match for the bFlex driver I blew up on my first try at DIY. I ended up with a 1A Buckpuck.

    My ideal driver would allow me to use my present 14.4V battery, and drive a single P7 at 2 levels - 1400mA and 2800mA, and be less tha 3/4"diameter.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    The bFlex or nFlex from Taskled is easily capable of a single MC-E and quite a bit smaller than the hipFlex and slightly cheaper. Some people have done dual MC-E lights with the bFlex or nFlex and run each LED at 500mA. Still lots of light. Using the battery monitoring and thermal sensing features of the Flex series drivers and you really have a nice DIY driver solution.

  13. #13
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    here it comes...

  14. #14
    I like bloody ankles
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dream Plus
    Well, I only have "room" to cram a 3/4" diameter driver in the housing.

    The P7 will be wired in parallel, so I need more than 1A, preferably 2.5 - 2.8A in "high" mode.

    My fat fingers were no match for the bFlex driver I blew up on my first try at DIY. I ended up with a 1A Buckpuck.

    My ideal driver would allow me to use my present 14.4V battery, and drive a single P7 at 2 levels - 1400mA and 2800mA, and be less tha 3/4"diameter.
    The Shark Buck 3a fits the criteria, but you'd want to solder on your own external pot or get the Shark with Remora for dimming control.

    http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...oducts_id=1244

    I used the same board in the build below and have run it with 11.1 and 14.8v packs. It's worked great, just make sure you attach the board to a heatsink, even for testing.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=535221

  15. #15
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    lambda, I ordered my LEDs from cutter and they got here within about a week once they were shipped. it's not that bad of shipping.

    taskled also gets here pretty fast.

  16. #16
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    Hey Bryguy, A week doesn't sound too bad. I thought it would take a lot longer coming from Australia.

    Since your here, what do you think of a 4 MC-E light? I want each die to get 700ma.

    I think I should be able to build a housing that can deal with the heat. Besides if you keep on moving it should be fine.

  17. #17
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    Thanks. It looks like that would work.What kind of switch does the Remora require? I could just use a pot like you did. I just hope my heatsink is up to the task.

    Quote Originally Posted by dsjc
    The Shark Buck 3a fits the criteria, but you'd want to solder on your own external pot or get the Shark with Remora for dimming control.

    http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...oducts_id=1244

    I used the same board in the build below and have run it with 11.1 and 14.8v packs. It's worked great, just make sure you attach the board to a heatsink, even for testing.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=535221

  18. #18
    I like bloody ankles
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dream Plus
    Thanks. It looks like that would work.What kind of switch does the Remora require? I could just use a pot like you did. I just hope my heatsink is up to the task.
    I would assume the Remora would use a momentary on switch, but I've never used one. I tend to like the simplicity and inifinite dimming levels of a pot, and this IP67 rated pot costs all of $2.

    You need very little heatsink, just something. I used a small piece of 1/16" Al with some holes to clear the solder points, this was AA'd to the copper sink on the board, and then the assembly AA'd to the inside of the light body. I just used the clamp for initial testing.


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