taskled/cutter CC5W-700/350/80 problems- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    taskled/cutter CC5W-700/350/80 problems

    taskled/cutter CC5W-700/350/80 has 5 connections. 12v high, 12v low, gnd, led +/-
    I have not modified my driver, which should mean it is 240/80mA dual current capable.
    I looked for a while and there is no indication of which voltage goes where. So I hooked battery - to gnd, and battery + to 12v high. I get a current that seems way out of whack. Haven't measured the led current, but with 12v, I get .5A, and with 7.5v, I get .75A (these are battery currents). which represents around 6 watts. I have one led on there, so I should be seeing considerably lower power drop than that, 4V*.240A = 1W, a little more considering the efficiency losses in the converter. So it looks like the driver is putting out over an amp to the led. I guess I'll have to measure the actual led current tomorrow.

    This seems to be a slightly different version of the CC5w that taskled sells. Anyone have any knowledge of this driver, or do I have to reverse engineer?
    Last edited by unterhausen; 05-23-2009 at 11:11 AM.

  2. #2
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    Tell us more

    What LED are you running?

  3. #3
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    I'm using a single XR-E

  4. #4
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    Just for a reason to bump this post to see if anyone has any ideas here are some pictures of my light. I'd rather not spend the time reverse engineering this driver if I don't have to do so.

    I took the cable off of a car phone charger. It's a little long for a handlebar light.
    The light is a little long. I left a fairly large slug of aluminum in the center for heat
    dissipation purposes. The area in the back is big because the driver just doesn't
    fit into a round case very well. I hogged out a lot of aluminum for that. I would have liked to put some
    cooling fins on the case, but I was too lazy to figure out where they would fit. I felt like I was in
    a hurry making it, next one will be more interesting looking. Even with the driver/battery problems
    it worked really well for a single led.

    I guess you can't link to flickr or something, so here are the links
    light
    light open from front
    Light open from the back



    Last edited by unterhausen; 05-23-2009 at 10:55 AM.

  5. #5
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    Did you get a chance to check the current through the LED?
    Last edited by Vancbiker; 05-24-2009 at 10:23 PM.

  6. #6
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    I haven't yet. It's not easy with the equipment I have on hand.

  7. #7
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    OK, I'll take a stab.

    The traces that you can cut to change configurations on the driver appear to bring resistors into the circuit. If the trace A was open (bad via maybe?) you would be driving 700mA with your battery connected to +12Vhigh, gnd. Try switching the positive supply lead to the +12Vlow connection and see what happens.

  8. #8
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    I did the switch to 12v low, and it's still pulling the same amps. At this point all I can do is make bigger batteries.

  9. #9
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    Bad driver? Do you have only 1 of them? Will Cutter exchange what appears to be a defective device?

  10. #10
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    I suppose I should ask them.

    I really want to get something from taskled, in particular I would like low voltage cutoff.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by unterhausen
    I suppose I should ask them.

    I really want to get something from taskled, in particular I would like low voltage cutoff.
    I am using a bFlex and a hipFlex in my lights. They are really nice. I like the voltage warning and cutoff and also the thermal sensing. Worth the extra cost IMHO.

  12. #12
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    It appears some drivers that have been sold have a minor short which is sending full current to the led

    Please note this was a fault at the assembler. The board can be repaired by breaking the short with a solder iron. Suffice to say we will test each board before it leaves here. When it is functioning fine it is a neat driver
    Cheers
    WeLight

    Cutter Electronics Pty Ltd www.cutter.com.au

  13. #13
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    Thanks for posting that All three pins were bridged on mine.

    I used the microscope and my soldering iron with some solderwick to get rid of the bridge. It now pulls .05A at 16V while driving the 280mA setting. Maybe tomorrow I'll figure out if that sounds right. At the 80mA setting, it doesn't even register on my wattmeter.
    Last edited by unterhausen; 06-15-2009 at 08:56 PM.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by unterhausen
    Thanks for posting that All three pins were bridged on mine.

    I used the microscope and my soldering iron with some solderwick to get rid of the bridge. It now pulls .05A at 16V while driving the 280mA setting. Maybe tomorrow I'll figure out if that sounds right. At the 80mA setting, it doesn't even register on my wattmeter.
    Sounds good, sorry for the hassles
    Cheers
    WeLight

    Cutter Electronics Pty Ltd www.cutter.com.au

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