Sleek Hybrid MC-E, XR-E, 5mm Cree Light built (picture heavy)- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 24 of 24
  1. #1
    MTBiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    988

    Sleek Hybrid MC-E, XR-E, 5mm Cree Light built (picture heavy)

    It's been a long time coming, but I'm happy to say I finally finished. My first light was essentially a copy of the Amoeba. I decided to take it a step further and combine the achesalot hybrid with some new ideas

    The housing is 1" square Al tubing finished with Gun-Kote. 5mm Cree LEDs operate any time the light is plugged in, drawing only 80mA total. XR-E is driven at 700mA. MC-E driven at 2100mA. Individual control for those. Runs off of AA batteries. Ledil CMC SS lenses - give a great beam. Estimated run times with everything on is roughly an hour , but the MC-E is in there solely for downhill when all that extra light is needed.


    Comments? Opinions?

























    testing continuity Yeah I know it looks messy, but the connections are solid.



    ALAS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!









    Beamshots

    Control


    5mm Only (My camera is messing with the colors, they are totally warm white, not blue at all)


    XRE only


    MCE only


    everything on


    The pictures don't really do justice. It is basically a car headlight. Really good throw, flood, everything.

    We can bomb the world to pieces, but we can't bomb it into peace -Michael Franti

  2. #2
    One Gear
    Reputation: .40AET's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    1,077
    Your light looks awesome. The Gun-Kote gives the light a really finished look.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: piesoup's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    455
    Thats a fantastic light! I REALLY like it!

    What are those drivers and where are they from?

    Andrew

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    12
    VERY NICE! What's the source for the switches?

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    729
    I'm curious about the 5mm LEDs. Are those for "I'm at the car getting geared up" or "I'm stopped on the trail talking/eating" type of use? I'm assuming since they are on anytime it is plugged in, that's the idea, rather than actually having them for riding illumination (though they add a little extra to that).

  6. #6
    Spanish biker
    Reputation: msxtr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    732
    Hi, very nice design, but really why you want the 5mm leds?? Are enough cooling the case to 1 xre and 1 mc-e led??

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

    Easy DIY led light1
    Easy DIY led light2

    The Beast!!!

  7. #7
    MTBiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    988
    piesoup - They are the AMC7135 700mA drivers from kaidomain. Thanks

    saltytri - The switches are judco 528pb-nd from digikey

    cycleboy - They are just for when you only need a small amount of light, originally for in between riding when everyone is standing around talking, and doesn't need insane light output. They're always on because they draw such low current it doesn't matter.

    msxtr - see above^ The case does slowly get warm with the MC-E on, hence why that will only be used for downhill when the extra light is really needed. The XR-E provides a lot of light for most riding.
    We can bomb the world to pieces, but we can't bomb it into peace -Michael Franti

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: troutie-mtb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,062
    That is a cool light and I like the 5mm leds too also if it is a helmet light then some reds on the rear and you have a good be seen with light that is not going to drain your battery before you get to the offroad trails.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,781
    kuksul, I've been watching your build from the start and you have done a great job, nice straight cuts and very tidy.
    Good idea to use the 5mm LEDs they could get you out of trouble if your battery is almost flat.

  10. #10
    MTBiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    988
    thanks for the kind words

    Here are some nicer pics I took today:





    We can bomb the world to pieces, but we can't bomb it into peace -Michael Franti

  11. #11
    Lets RIDE!
    Reputation: Jim Z in VT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,548
    Man, that is just fantastic all around. The guncote gives a great professional looking finish.

    The photos of the finished light make it look like there are ridges under the case?

    Is that a SS optic on the XRE? (just asking because I have a bag of them and can't remember which is which :-)

    JZ
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  12. #12
    Lets RIDE!
    Reputation: Jim Z in VT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,548
    Quote Originally Posted by JimZinVT
    The photos of the finished light make it look like there are ridges under the case?
    JZ
    Or is that velcro?

    JZ
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  13. #13
    MTBiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    988
    Quote Originally Posted by JimZinVT
    Man, that is just fantastic all around. The guncote gives a great professional looking finish.

    The photos of the finished light make it look like there are ridges under the case?

    Is that a SS optic on the XRE? (just asking because I have a bag of them and can't remember which is which :-)

    JZ

    Thanks, yep that's velcro

    Both lenses are SS. I like them for most things.
    We can bomb the world to pieces, but we can't bomb it into peace -Michael Franti

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bwilli's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    51


    That is a thing of beauty.

    Did you use the bake on or air dry GunKote?

  15. #15
    MTBiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    988
    Quote Originally Posted by bwilli


    That is a thing of beauty.

    Did you use the bake on or air dry GunKote?
    I used the bake on kind.
    We can bomb the world to pieces, but we can't bomb it into peace -Michael Franti

  16. #16
    MTBiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    988
    Here's some test data I took just now. It was performed with all LEDs on. The whole thing got very hot, even with with a fan directly on it, so I will reserve the MC-E for only short periods of time. The casing just can't dissipate all the heat.

    These batteries were charged about 2 weeks ago and used a couple times for a few seconds here and there. The nominal voltage without load was 5.16 to begin with, I'd say they were about 80-90% full.



    ...pretty bad hahah
    We can bomb the world to pieces, but we can't bomb it into peace -Michael Franti

  17. #17
    Lets RIDE!
    Reputation: Jim Z in VT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,548
    You just need a bigger battery. What are you using now?

    And ride faster to keep it cool

    JZ
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bwilli's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    51
    Wow. How'd ya' measure lumen output? That's cool...

    Speaking of cool, the Cree measures the life of their LEDs at something like 80C which is hot enough to burn your skin. That's really hot. Do you have any means to measure the temp of your light as it's running?

    I did a temp versus time graph for my light (double-triple XRE) while running at 350ma and 1000ma in still air. What I saw was that at 350ma it reached an equilibrium after about 20 minutes at about 42C (+22 from ambient) and at 1000ma it got to 62C in 9 minutes.

    I plotted the delta temp/delta time of the original data against the temp of the light and guestimated an equilibrium temperature for the light at somewhere in the mid 70's. That may help you get an estimate of the equilibrium temp without having to go there.

    Of course I know nothing about the theories at work here but the data I had just seemed to fit a nice curve!

  19. #19
    MTBiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    988
    JimZinVT - I am using a 4||4 AA battery pack, they are 5 year old 1600mAh NiMH's so I expect new batteries to be about twice that.

    bwilli - All I did was use this equation in Excel: =((((0.2286*(D6*0.75/4))+14.286)/100)*370)+((((0.1979*(D6*0.25))+28.667)/100)*114)

    Where D6 is the position of the total current going into the light. I multiply times .75 because 3/4 of that current is going into the MC-E, then the rest of that equation is roughly the % Luminous flux from the Cree data sheets. I multiplied that by 370, the rated lumens at 350mA, and divided by 4 because there are 4 dies.

    Then a similar thing with the XR-E. It makes sense if you look at the data sheet and current directly. It's only a rough approximation, probably +/- 15%.

    I actually did do a very qualitative record of temperature..just rating it from 1 to 10 It was at 10 for most of the high current part, that is, when I felt it, it was very hot, but not nearly enough to burn my skin.

    here are the original graphs I had all connected into one:

    Last edited by kuksul08; 04-18-2009 at 12:42 PM.
    We can bomb the world to pieces, but we can't bomb it into peace -Michael Franti

  20. #20
    Lets RIDE!
    Reputation: Jim Z in VT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,548
    Quote Originally Posted by kuksul08
    JimZinVT - I am using a 4||4 AA battery pack, they are 5 year old 1600mAh NiMH's
    That would explain the short runtime...big load on a small capacity battery pack.

    Also, you may be asking the NiMH AAs to supply current at a higher rate than they can handle....did the batteries get hot during the test? I ran into that on my light, and it was suggested that the Sanyo Eneloop AAs can handle a high current load better. Poking around on CPF I found that the white-topped Duracell NiMH rechargables are re-branded Eneloops, and I was able to find them at some local stores.

    Another option is to double up your battery pack, eight AAs in a 4s2p arrangement to keep the voltage the same.

    JZ
    It's not about speed, it's about lack of control.

  21. #21
    MTBiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    988
    Quote Originally Posted by JimZinVT
    That would explain the short runtime...big load on a small capacity battery pack.

    Also, you may be asking the NiMH AAs to supply current at a higher rate than they can handle....did the batteries get hot during the test? I ran into that on my light, and it was suggested that the Sanyo Eneloop AAs can handle a high current load better. Poking around on CPF I found that the white-topped Duracell NiMH rechargables are re-branded Eneloops, and I was able to find them at some local stores.

    Another option is to double up your battery pack, eight AAs in a 4s2p arrangement to keep the voltage the same.

    JZ
    That's what I currently have, 4s2p, so about 1.5A per cell at max power. They surprisingly stayed totally cool the whole time until the time they dropped below 1.2V/cell, then they became slightly warm, but never a whole lot.
    We can bomb the world to pieces, but we can't bomb it into peace -Michael Franti

  22. #22
    Person
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    775
    Are the 5mm LED's direct driven?

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: red5jedi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    424
    Quote Originally Posted by kuksul08
    That's what I currently have, 4s2p, so about 1.5A per cell at max power. They surprisingly stayed totally cool the whole time until the time they dropped below 1.2V/cell, then they became slightly warm, but never a whole lot.

    You don't want to run a NiMH AA below 1.0v or your going to damage it. So with four of them in series you don't want to get below the 4v.

    Very nice light. How did you mount it?

  24. #24
    MTBiker
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    988
    Quote Originally Posted by red5jedi
    You don't want to run a NiMH AA below 1.0v or your going to damage it. So with four of them in series you don't want to get below the 4v.

    Very nice light. How did you mount it?

    Is that 1V each load voltage or after they recover?

    I mount it using Velcro.

    Baulz, they are wired in parallel then with just a resistor. So, yes they are direct driven?


    You guys think people would want to buy this or is it a bit much?
    We can bomb the world to pieces, but we can't bomb it into peace -Michael Franti

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.