Should I Heatsink a DX Driver?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Should I Heatsink a DX Driver?

    I have built a dozen or so Achesalot style lights now using BuckPucks, but want to reduce the weight and cost of my lights. I purchased a few of these drivers off of DX

    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256

    They seem to work ok, but should I somehow heatsink them to the inside of the light and then place foam or some sort of insullation on the backside to protect them from shorting out? The flat side has the + and - connections so I need to be careful not to press both against the aluminum housing.

    Is heatsinking even necessary? I connected it and let it run for a few minutes and it got pretty warm. Could it potentially over heat? I like the Buckpucks but they do get expensive when building multiple prototypes. Any help is appreciated.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Depending on the voltages you are using I would guess the diode (black block thing) or the chip (8 pin) will get the hottest. My guess is for the diode being the hottest part. Cooler is better than hotter, but those parts should be able to take heat pretty well. The diode can take the most. I would not worry unless it's 80C (185F) or hotter. If you can touch it and not get burned it is not too hot.

    It's kind of hard to effectively heatsink the board. About the only thing I could think of would be to glue the back of the board to the metal with the Arctic Alumina. The cooling would be though the board, but it would be better than nothing. Naturally you have to make sure no metal of the board touches the metal of the case. Gluing or some other positive attachment would be a good idea.

  3. #3
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    Vroom9, thanks. I know the AA is non conductive, but I was concerned about trying to secure the board to the metal since the positive and negative leads would both be against the metal as well. I like the idea of placing a small amount of AA on the diode but did not know if there was enough surface area for effective heat transfer or the possibility of damaging its connection to the board on a rough trail.
    I guess it would be better than nothing an I will try to brace it from moving. I'll give it go and see how it heats up. Thanks again.

  4. #4
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    On the top side of the board there are actuall solder points for positive and ground, so you don't have to use the center positive and outer negative rings on the bottom. Allows you to put a much thinner coat of AA

  5. #5
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    I saw those, but the holes are sooo tiny. I wanted to use about 22 guage wire but it's just too large for them. My soldering skills are still moderate at best. Thanks.

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