Seoul P4/Fraen optics compatible?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Seoul P4/Fraen optics compatible?

    Hi - anyone tried the Seoul P4s on a star with the Fraen Luxeon III lambertian 26.5mm optics? It seems as though Carclo 20mm optics are reccommended for the P4 but I have the fraen lenses and correct sized units to fit them in (old metal film cannisters) and wondered if they were OK too? Otherwise I'm back to the drawing board - and this was supposed to sort me out for a 12 and a 24 solo while I waited for my Cree order to come through :-(

    Ian

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSBonty
    Hi - anyone tried the Seoul P4s on a star with the Fraen Luxeon III lambertian 26.5mm optics? It seems as though Carclo 20mm optics are reccommended for the P4 but I have the fraen lenses and correct sized units to fit them in (old metal film cannisters) and wondered if they were OK too? Otherwise I'm back to the drawing board - and this was supposed to sort me out for a 12 and a 24 solo while I waited for my Cree order to come through :-(

    Ian
    not sure about the optics...but you will have to make sure the canisters are adequate thermally. you will have to bond the led to the metal thermally. assuming a good bond it may be necessary to add a heatsink of some sort.

    any pics of the cannisters?
    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  3. #3
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    I'll be using the same system as I've had going for Luxeon III stars running at 1A, though these were in plastic film cannisters - star thermal epoxied to a heatsink which is cut to fit the inside of the cannister and epoxied to the sides. The plastic gets warm-hot inside (so seems to give adequate heat transfer) but is fine in riding where the airflow keeps things cooler. I'm hoping the metal cans i got hold of will help a bit with heat dissipation too. No pics, but its basically a 35mm film cannister (remember those!) in metal, slightly shorter than the plastic ones cos there is a seperate screw cap to make up the film length instead of a push fit lid.

  4. #4
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    I just upgraded my selfmade headlamps from Lux III to Seoul P4 and I use the same Fraen optics as before. Works like a charm.

  5. #5
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    Hello. Yes, all luxeon III optics are compatibles with seoul P4. I too upgraded my petzl myo xp from luxeon III to seoul P4 and works perfectly, if you find could found my topic about it.

    Greetings - Saludos

    msxtr
    Warning!!! my english is very very bad, sorry.

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  6. #6
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    Welcome to MTBR Yussu!


    Ian it sounds like you have roughly the right idea with your new build, but remember its best that your heat sink is in direct contact with free moving air for best thermal performance. By placing a heat sink in a sealed plastic container you negate the whole point of the heat sinks job to dissipate the heat!

    You should be alright with most optics on the Seoul P4 emitter, although you may experience a few artefacts in the beam in comparison to a Lumiled Luxeon Emitter. Textured reflectors seem to be the go for Seoul emitters in my opinion, but optics will still be quite alright.

    Dave.

  7. #7
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    Yussu - welcome and thanks for the info, I realise that most lux III optics 'should' work OK but it's always best to see if someone hs actually tried and succeeded!

    Dave - the heatsink is really to provide a flat solid metal base for the LED star to transfer heat to and although it's not in the air flow, it is transferring heat to the plastic case (via artic alumina/silver liberally applied for contact between metal heatsink and plastic case) which is in the airflow and does dissipate heat. If I could easily get a non heatsink bit of flat solid smooth metal of the right proportions I could use that too; the fat it is a finned heatsink makes it lighter than a solid block.

    It's a less than perfect thermal solution but one developed in the UK by robdean as a simple way of making a single LED light - the optics pretty much drop straight into the cannister, and its a waterproof small cheap and easily obtainable unit to start with that can fit driver, led, optic, heatsink, cables, switch, mount etc to/in. Lots of folk in the UK have made Lux III emitters like this and they seem to work well without LED performance loss - the plastic gets hot indoors but airflow while riding cools it so it seems to be doing its job.

    For the seoul emitter I'm going to use a (slightly shorter) metal cannister and shorter heatsink so nearly all of it will be solid instead of finned and competely in contact with the inside of the cannister. I guess the proof will be in the pudding but unless the seoul P4s emit way more heat the lux III's it should be fine. I'm afraid i have little access to CNC equipment etc and this seems like a really neat and effective way to get fairly bright (approx 200 lumens when run at 1A) individual lights - these are useful to me for 24 solo attempts where I can't afford the batteries to run a 4xCree or 4x seoul P4 unit at 1A for 12 hours (and I'd probaly want one on the bars and one on the helmet too!) although i am halfway through constructing a smallish and hopefully quite neat 420Ma 3x Cree unit (I wish there were a micropuck sized emitter at 500Ma/750Ma/1A though).

    Anyway, thanks all, bits are on order and if the fraen/P4 combo is fairly similar to the lux III/fraen combo but hopefully 2.5 times as bright (and/or 3x as efficient for the same brightness as I'll make one of these too) I'll be happy!

    ian

    ian

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSBonty
    Yussu - welcome and thanks for the info, I realise that most lux III optics 'should' work OK but it's always best to see if someone hs actually tried and succeeded!

    Dave - the heatsink is really to provide a flat solid metal base for the LED star to transfer heat to and although it's not in the air flow, it is transferring heat to the plastic case (via artic alumina/silver liberally applied for contact between metal heatsink and plastic case) which is in the airflow and does dissipate heat. If I could easily get a non heatsink bit of flat solid smooth metal of the right proportions I could use that too; the fat it is a finned heatsink makes it lighter than a solid block.

    It's a less than perfect thermal solution but one developed in the UK by robdean as a simple way of making a single LED light - the optics pretty much drop straight into the cannister, and its a waterproof small cheap and easily obtainable unit to start with that can fit driver, led, optic, heatsink, cables, switch, mount etc to/in. Lots of folk in the UK have made Lux III emitters like this and they seem to work well without LED performance loss - the plastic gets hot indoors but airflow while riding cools it so it seems to be doing its job.

    For the seoul emitter I'm going to use a (slightly shorter) metal cannister and shorter heatsink so nearly all of it will be solid instead of finned and competely in contact with the inside of the cannister. I guess the proof will be in the pudding but unless the seoul P4s emit way more heat the lux III's it should be fine. I'm afraid i have little access to CNC equipment etc and this seems like a really neat and effective way to get fairly bright (approx 200 lumens when run at 1A) individual lights - these are useful to me for 24 solo attempts where I can't afford the batteries to run a 4xCree or 4x seoul P4 unit at 1A for 12 hours (and I'd probaly want one on the bars and one on the helmet too!) although i am halfway through constructing a smallish and hopefully quite neat 420Ma 3x Cree unit (I wish there were a micropuck sized emitter at 500Ma/750Ma/1A though).

    Anyway, thanks all, bits are on order and if the fraen/P4 combo is fairly similar to the lux III/fraen combo but hopefully 2.5 times as bright (and/or 3x as efficient for the same brightness as I'll make one of these too) I'll be happy!

    ian

    ian
    I am not trying to wind you up or saying your light overheats....but with a bad conductor of heat, if its warm on the outside, its probably really warm on the inside. If that temperature difference is really high then even if the outside is cool in flowing air it might be too hot inside.

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

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