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  1. #1
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    Semi DIY deal

    There's a long thread on the main Lights forum about a deal on a fairly decent dual xml-2 light. This is the Yinding one that got cloned many times, each one worse quality than the previous. The original had decent waterproofing and heat sinking, the clones not so much.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-...nd-941540.html

    Gearbest has a pre- sale on the light head and a battery box for under $30.

    Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4-Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp (4 x 18650 Battery Pack)-28.52 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com

    I wasn't too interested as it's a cool white tint, and a low-med-high-strobe driver.

    What has good DIY potential for me is that KD sells a clone albeit with poor hear sinking and waterproofing, but it does have a programmable driver where you can select the level for each of 3 settings.

    They can sell just the driver and bare emitter board.
    http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023801

    We could reflow some neutral or warmer xml2s on that board and install it in the well-made Yinding unit, add one of Vancbiker's finned metal Gopro adapters and get a fairly decent light.
    It sounds like KD may also sell the board with neutral LEDs, so that would be a nice easy swap. I am looking into that.

    The interface is still not ideal, as there's visible PWM and only 3 levels, but for the price it's decent.

    I wish it was suitable as a host for a TaskLED driver and emitters on copper boards, but that's asking a bit much.
    Last edited by Ofroad'bent; 12-20-2014 at 05:01 AM.

  2. #2
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    Group buy deal on now- Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4-Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp (4 x 18650 Battery Pack)-28.52 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
    Use the coupon code "Yinding" to get the light head for $24.02. I think it expires Monday.

  3. #3
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    OK, KD just posted the driver with neutral XML-2 U2 LEDs.
    http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023807

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    Group buy deal on now- Yinding 900 Lumens CREE XM L2 2 LEDs 4-Modes Headlight Cycling Lamp (4 x 18650 Battery Pack)-28.52 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com
    Use the coupon code "Yinding" to get the light head for $24.02. I think it expires Monday.
    Looks like the battery box isn't included any more, but the price is lower than the initial $29

  5. #5
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    Note- looks like the KD board with neutral LEDs will need some cutting to fit the Yinding light. It still looks like the programmable driver will fit OK.

    Gearbest has responded to our requests and now has one with neutral XML-2s listed, so no LED mod needed. I still plan to mod the driver, and scavenge the neutral LEDs from the KD upgrade kit to pimp another light.

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    I saw your comments in the (looong) original-yinding thread and am interested in doing the driverswap too.

    How has that KD2 driver held up for you in the long term?

    Do you have any current and efficiency measurements for it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Morten Schmidt View Post
    I saw your comments in the (looong) original-yinding thread and am interested in doing the driverswap too.

    How has that KD2 driver held up for you in the long term?

    Do you have any current and efficiency measurements for it?
    Driver swap was a 10 minute job. I did 2 lights, and changed optics on one LED each for better spot, with Neutral white LEDs and a Vancbiker finned mount.

    The light has worked well so far, but there is visible PWM on lower settings.

    It looks like the Nitefighter BT21 is decent too, with little mod needed.

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    Yeah, but the Nitefighter BT21 is a heavier light and I want to keep it as lightweight as possible for the helmet.

    I have ordered a bunch of optics to play with including one gloworm spot.

    Do you happen to recall what the lowest mode is where you don't have PWM flicker? (Current at that mode?)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Morten Schmidt View Post
    ...I want to keep it as lightweight as possible for the helmet.
    You won't get that with a commercial light. If you are serious about light weight, then you need to DIY an entire light. With careful construction one can get a 600 plus lumen light at about 25 grams. If you need more output it will bump that up of course due to the need for increased heat sink area.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

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    Sorry, travelling right now. I know it was visible in level 1/10 and think also on 3/10.
    I have no way to measure current.

    Quote Originally Posted by Morten Schmidt View Post
    Yeah, but the Nitefighter BT21 is a heavier light and I want to keep it as lightweight as possible for the helmet.

    I have ordered a bunch of optics to play with including one gloworm spot.

    Do you happen to recall what the lowest mode is where you don't have PWM flicker? (Current at that mode?)

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    You won't get that with a commercial light. If you are serious about light weight, then you need to DIY an entire light. With careful construction one can get a 600 plus lumen light at about 25 grams. If you need more output it will bump that up of course due to the need for increased heat sink area.
    I'm sure you are right. Maybe some day - but not in the forseable future as I don't have access to CNC machinery and 3D printers don't print in Aluminum (yet..)

    The Yinding comes in at half the weight of the Magicshine 808E I have used 4 times for 24h solo races. Will also offer more light output, so I see that as progress. The BT21 comes in at ~3/4 the weight, so also progress, but not as much, at least the way I see it.

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    With KD2 driver I don't see any flickering. Ofroad'bent must be more sensitive to the PWM. It also depends on the battery, but I don't think it is the case with him.

  13. #13
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    Personally after trying a KD2 driver, I put my yinding driver back in. Though You cant program the modes, the driver has nice mode spacing and more efficient than the KD2 driver. And the PWM issue, Im not sensitive to it, but those KD drivers have it pretty bad. Yinding driver is much better about it. I added a current sense resistor mod (to turn up medium a bit, other modes of course came up as well), a PTT remote switch, use one glowworm, 1x 15deg LEDDNA/FASTTECH optic, vancs finned adapter, and its an awesome little light. I like my BT21 (same optics mix) on the lid as well (use a 2 cell pack mounted on the lid with it normally), doesnt bother me but I dont ride near like what your about to lol.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    With KD2 driver I don't see any flickering. Ofroad'bent must be more sensitive to the PWM. It also depends on the battery, but I don't think it is the case with him.
    Remember, I use this light for running and skiing home at night too, on lower levels. The pwm doesn't show up much on mtb levels. For me the increase in battery life is worthwhile for multisport use. I still have lots of my DIY lights wth l-flex that run on 3.7v, so maybe this light will be my main biking light.

  15. #15
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    I see mine on my testing fans, MTB front tire, and cameras really bad. My MJ880 clone on the other hand is pretty good about it.

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    Tigris, Yinding driver might be better, but Morten is probably seeking of adjustable driver (ie. very long runtime) so he can use it on a 24hour race. Yindings low might be to high for him. That's the whole point as I understand the Morten. I might be wrong, though.

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    true, set the mode exactly where he needs it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Morten Schmidt View Post
    Yeah, but the Nitefighter BT21 is a heavier light and I want to keep it as lightweight as possible for the helmet.

    I have ordered a bunch of optics to play with including one gloworm spot.

    Do you happen to recall what the lowest mode is where you don't have PWM flicker? (Current at that mode?)
    The flicker is on all modes except high.
    If its not your primary light you probably wont notice it, but if it annoys you it will add to fatigue on an overnighter.

    Its a good enduro light as you can program in the runtime. I typically just leave it on low 95% of the time but use level 3 or 5 if on gravel or downhills. I get over 60 hrs runtime on low, about 10hrs on 5 of my 5800mAhr battery.

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    znomit, do you mean visible flickering or PWM (high freq. switching)? As said I didn't notice any visible flickering on any level, but that's me. Someone might be more sensitive to it if the PWM frequency is to low.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    znomit, do you mean visible flickering or PWM (high freq. switching)? As said I didn't notice any visible flickering on any level, but that's me. Someone might be more sensitive to it if the PWM frequency is to low.
    Its high frequency so not noticeable until you're riding. Generally it annoys me on chip seal roads. For years I used either taskled drivers or dynamo lights with no flicker so maybe I'm a little sensitive. Stuff like that can get really annoying and add to fatigue on an overnighter.

  21. #21
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    Then I would suggest Morten just to try it and see if he sense it. It's not so expensive. In either case he can have spare driver at hands.

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    Yeah thanks guys, I already ordered a complete KD2 as well as the Yinding, planning to do the driver swap. Will try both lights out while keeping an eye out for flicker and evaluate both before I decide whether to do the driver swap. Thanks, appreciate the insight.

    I also have the Gloworm optic as well as the 15deg LEDDNA one on order. Looking forward to trying 'em out!

    Tigris, you mentioned KD2 driver also has worse efficiency, did you happen to have any data on that?

  23. #23
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    it was something I noticed as KD2 driver draws more power from the pack but output to the drivers is less than the yinding driver. I changed the sense resistor set ups to match each other (well by values of the resistors matched to their sense chip) and the kd2 driver pulled 400mA more than the yinding driver from the same battery but had less visible output. I have 2 yindings, only difference between the 2 for the testing was the driver. Same optics, same battery pack, same everything. But yinding driver was slightly brighter and was 400mA less current draw.

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