Replacing emitters on Serfas light- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Replacing emitters on Serfas light

    I'm a complete greenie when it comes to tweaking lights. I don't know a lot, but I'm decent with my hands... So I'm looking for assistance from anyone that may be able to help.
    I've really taken to the neutral white color temp emitters. I've been using the Nitefighter lights, and they've been great so far. But, I have a Serfas true 1500 light that I love as far as beam pattern and throw. It's taken a back seat to these newer lights I got because I really like the color.
    So you'd probably guess, but I'm thinking of switching out the emitters but not really sure where to start. I've seen some info on re-flowing emitters on the board and fairly confident I can do that. But, I would need to know what emitters I should use and whether or not there are some compatibility issues that I should be aware of.
    Does anyone know how I can tell what kind of emitter that light comes with?
    What emitter should I replace it with to get the color temp I want.
    Any help is hugely appreciated!

  2. #2
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    Ok after some digging I found what emitters are in it. XML.



    Gets easy from there. Take front cover off, optics out and see if its one single board the emitters are attached to or if its 3 separate. 3 separate will hopefully mean just soldering wires and done as you can buy emitters already on the pcbs if serfas used standard sizing. Ull need to measure to know for sure.



    As for emitters, xm-l2 series.



    Tint I usually go for 3c. So xm-l2 u2 3c. Can get xm-l2 t6 4c as well if you want a little warmer/yellower.

    Best place in the states is www.mtnelectronics.com for emitters. I get a lot from him besides emitters, great place and service is amazing. He also always stocks latest and greatest emitters for DIY projects before anywhere ive found.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for all the great info! i don't know how you found out what was in that light. I couldn't find anything when I searched the web.
    I took the light apart' and found that the 3 boards are separate. Actually, the design is pretty cool. Each emitter board is in its own aluminum cylinder with heat sink rings along its entire length. Everything is sealed really well. The driver is attached in its own sealed chamber in the very back of the case. The emitter board is round and measures about 20mm in diameter. I will check out that website and see what they have along the lines of what you suggested.

  4. #4
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    Bummer. They're currently only have 1 on the u2-3c. Is there another reputable place to get these or do they generally restock pretty quick?

  5. #5
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    Depends, r you planning to reflow or not, if you are they have 3 on aluminum.

    And in the states, none that I know of. Int-outdoor and cutter(in Australia) are the only other 2 sources I know of.

    Mtn does restock quickly though

  6. #6
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    If those noctigon boards fit, I will probably wait until they get some. Seems swapping the boards would be the safer way to go for a greenie like me. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction! I really appreciate it!

  7. #7
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    Like I said, take the front cover off (its only gotta be a few screws) and check before you order. Measure whats there etc. Save yourself headaches later I you know what your getting into from the start.

  8. #8
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    So, just a thought... If I were to mix a u2-3c in the middle with a t6-4c on each side, I'm thinking the overall beam should take on a warmer overall color. But, would I need to worry about anything with respect to the driver driving the 3 emitters with one being different than the other 2? Or would it not matter because they're all xm-l2? Not sure if it's standard practice, but when I took it apart, I noticed that the 3 emitters are wired in series. Is this always the case with multiple emitters connected to a driver?

  9. #9
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    Are you sure their in series? What voltage is the battery pack for it?

    And no its not anywhere near the case, you have one of the few that has more than 2 emitters wired in series. 2 emitter light heads are almost always in series, more than that most of the time they are in parallel or a mix of series and parallel.

    In series mixing them is ok, not in parallel. Honestly there isn't really anything to gain by mixing them though so you'll basically just end up with a 4c light.

  10. #10
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    I'll double check tonight. The pack is a standard 7.4-8.2, 2s2p pack. Replaced the cells last year because the stock ones were showing a big drop in run time. Or maybe it was the year before. Can't remember.
    At a glance last night, though, it looked that the positive of the first led went to the driver board, the neg to the middle led's positive, etc. down to the last led's negative going back to the driver. I'm quite certain I only saw one positive and one negative wire coming off the driver board.
    I hear ya on the led configuration. Was just being impatient and mtn had that mix in stock. I figured the color would still mix well with the bt40s on the bars.

  11. #11
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    Not sure if you can tell from these shots, but the three are in series.
    https://imageshack.com/a/img905/1709/6MPowG.jpg

    https://imageshack.com/a/img908/2757/191YEc.jpg

    What makes this unusual for a triple emitter setup?

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