Quick build triple XP-E- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Reputation: Southern Adventurer's Avatar
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    Jan 2009

    Quick build triple XP-E

    This is about as quick and simple a built that I have been able to come up with.

    Triple XP-E from Cutter
    Triple Optic from Cutter (narrow)
    BuckPuck (wired) 1A (from LED Supply dot com)
    Three Position Switch (on/off/on)
    580 ohm Resistor
    Donor headlamp base (from a cheap $5 headlamp)
    Pigtail power Lead from BatterySpace dot Com
    1" square Aluminium
    1"X1/8" Aluminium
    Lexan 1" x 1"

    I cut a 3 1/4" lencnth of the 1" square alluminum
    I used two pieces of 1/8" thick aluminium to build up a 1/4" "firewall" to mount the triple XP-E using a generous amount of JB Weld on the backside of the wall creating a bead
    for heat dissipation and strengh. I let it dry overnight.
    Then a drilled a 1/4" hole for the switch. I soldered one of the pot leads from the buckpuck to the center post and one to a outside post. I then soldered a 580 ohm resister to the two outside posts. This gives me a off/hi/low switch.
    I also drilled a 1/8" hole all the way through the housing to bolt the mount. Be sure it is far enough behind the firewall, but close to it for maximize space.
    I then drilled a 1/8" hole in the center of the "firewall" to pass the wires for the LEDs
    I then passed the LED leads through the hole and soldered them the LED base. Then mounted the switch and stuffed the Buckpuck inside with the power leads hanging out. I then used Artic Silver to mount the LED base to the "firewall". I let it dry for 30 minutes.
    I then made a backplate by using a 1/16" thick piece of aluminum that fit INSIDE of the square and attached it to a 1" x 1" X 1/16" backplate with JB Weld. I carefully drilled a hole in the center to mount the cable gland. Be sure to check the thickness and fit befor gluing in gland for strengh. I then passed the pigtail battery lead through the gland and soldered the leads to buckpuck being sure to cover the solders with shrink tubing. I secured the back plate with JB Weld and mounted optics and lexan with silicone.
    Using a 13.2V 4500 Nihm I should get about 4 1/2 hours run time on High (~600+ lumens). Cool to the touch on a 85F degree night.
    2 day build with a basic tools (i.e. hacksaw, file, vise, and drill). Total cost (w/ battery) is about $120. Once the XP-G comes out it can be built to push 1000+ lumens.
    If I can figure our my Nikon D80, I will post a Beam Shot.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: yetibetty's Avatar
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    Dec 2007
    I like it, looks nice and small although I have no idea of the size of a quarter dollar, maybe about the same as a 20p coin

    You mention that the light stays nice and cool when riding but does it get very hot when left on in still air?

  3. #3
    mtbr member
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    Jan 2009
    It got warm if I stopped for a bit, but putting it on low seemed to prevent much heat built up.

    And it is closer to a 10p . I'll break out my coin collection from 40 or so countries and post up a new photo.

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