Pics of new DX SSC P7 bike light- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Pics of new DX SSC P7 bike light

    I just got the new DX P7 bike light.
    Tore it down and took some close up pics of the guts.

    There are few things worth noting.

    The P7 is not screwed down.
    There is no heat sink grease under the P7
    There are alumnium shavings big enough to short something inside the electronics cavity.
    The red wire leading to the P7 just fell off the board, it was not soldered properly
    Make sure you tear them down and have a look around inside.

    The housing looks nice.
    The battery and trail tech type connectors look good enough to me.
    The charger is pretty light, hopefully it holds up.
    The reflector is very short and wide which may make the beam very wide angle. Have to see later when it gets dark.

    Bigger pics here.
    https://www.el34world.com/Misc/bike/BikesLights35.htm





    Last edited by El34; 06-08-2009 at 01:13 PM.

  2. #2
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    EL34, beam shots please when you get a chance..thanks ( outside beam shots that is... )

  3. #3
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    Will do, I may be only able to do some off the porch tonight.
    It started raining again a while ago.

    Been trying to get out and do some beam shots on several lights for a couple days now but the weather is not cooperating.

    I'll post them later tonight if all goes well.

    Bigger pics here. Hit refresh to make sure you get the most recent page changes.
    https://www.el34world.com/Misc/bike/BikesLights35.htm


    Here's a shot of some of the imrovements as I am assembling it again.


    see ya
    Last edited by El34; 06-08-2009 at 03:08 PM.

  4. #4
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    Ok, the rain stopped long enough to run out into the woods next to my house. and shoot some beam shots.

    I set up four P7 lights on a tripod.

    3 of the P7's have a 1.4 amp Low setting and a 2.8 amp High setting.

    The 4th P7 is the DX bike light above. The text on the Dx2 light is not correct. Not sure what the actual current is on this light yet. I'll have to measure the Dx2 bike light current for the High and Low settings.

    I'll set up a web page with the results when I get to work tomorow, I don't have access to my web editor right now.

    For now, I'll just show you one of my P7 lights and the DX bike light.
    I actually took a picture of all 4 P7's on at the same time also.
    Looks like the woods is on fire.

    That hump in the background is about 50+ feet away.














  5. #5
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    Just for giggles, this is all four P7's on high at the same time.
    I didn't aim the beams, they all hit in the center and so the center is way overexposed.

  6. #6
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    big difference

    were all of the lights running off the same battery pack ?

    in the "all on" pic, gives you an idea of what too much light would be like.

  7. #7
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    Seems strange that they decided to drill a hole right under the LED on the aluminum slug it sits on.

    Thanks for the beamshots. It looks like the tints are different, I actually like the DX light's tint more for color (WG I think) where the Hoffman looks like a WC tint and is brighter. I think that the beam pattern may also cause the DX light to look like a poorer performer in the shots. The Hoffman light looks more floody than the DX. It also looks like it is not aimed at the same spot since the DX light is pointed more squarely at the mound, while the other is pointed closer to the foreground.

    What was the live impression of the DX light - good, bad or just different?

    Forgot to ask, but were these all taken with manual exposure, and the same settings?

  8. #8
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    Hey EL34 thanks for the review and the pics!!

    Isn't the high mode on the DX2 P7 only 2.4A???

    It seems that the Dx2 P7 has a much warmer tint than the Hoffman and also puts out a litte less light!!!

    Edit: damn - i was too slow

  9. #9
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    Thats a nice beam out of the hoffman... orange peel reflector?
    Thanks for the pics.

  10. #10
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    were all of the lights running off the same battery pack ?
    No, each light had it's own 3.6 volt 4x18650 battery pack.
    The DX2 light has it's own pack also.

    in the "all on" pic, gives you an idea of what too much light would be like.
    Yeah, that was a silly shot. If I ran 3 P7's, I would aim two on the bars out to the sides just a tiny bit to spead out the beams and the helmet light would be the third one.

    Seems strange that they decided to drill a hole right under the LED on the aluminum slug it sits on.
    Yeah, I don't understand that either.

    Thanks for the beamshots. It looks like the tints are different
    The P7's are all from DX and look the same to me. The reflectors have completly different shapes. I'll post the reflector shapes for all four lights later.

    What was the live impression of the DX light - good, bad or just different?
    Not bad at all. It seems not as bright to me, could be the short stubby refelctor and the supposed 2.4 amps max current?
    I may leave it alone or I may do some more modding on it.
    The low setting was very very low. I think the low should be a bit higher.
    The flashing mode is cool, but not very useful to me personally.

    Forgot to ask, but were these all taken with manual exposure, and the same settings?
    Yes, F4 at about 5 seconds. It was very dark in the woods and the leaves were sucking up the light like a vacuum.


    Just getting up and having my coffee. I'll be at work soon where I can post pics of all four P7 lights I tested. I'll inset a small pic of each light in one corner and a pic of the reflector in the other corner. The reflectors are diffent in 3 of the lights and seems to make a big difference in the beam spread. All four lights itested had the same P7 from DX.
    The only difference in the P7's is that the DX bike light is not running at the full 2.8 amps like othe other 3 P7 lights were..

    Be back later

  11. #11
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    I just set up a beam shot page with lots more pics and info.
    I show the reflectors used in each light

    Actually, the Marwi conversion I did was my favorite light.
    Even though it has the same LED, same reflector and same electronics as my home brew P7
    Hard to say why it looked brighter.
    The only difference was the batteries used in each light.
    Looks like I aimed the Marwi a bit lower, which would make it look different.

    The actual distance out to that mound was 63 ft or 19.2 meters.
    A bit further than I guessed in the dark last night.

    Here's the link to the beam shot page.
    https://www.el34world.com/Misc/bike/BeamShots1.htm







    Last edited by El34; 06-09-2009 at 06:40 AM.

  12. #12
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    Well, in an attempt to get a current reading on High and Low on the DX bike light, something went wrong on the circuit board.

    I was able to get two current readings by placing my mutimeter between the battery and the light.

    I got 1.4 amps on high and .5 amps on low.
    That could explain why it looked so dim in the beam shots last night.

    That reading did not seem right and so I took the light apart again and was going to insert my meter between LED and the circuit board to read the actual current flowing to the P7.

    As soon as I unsoldered the - on the LED and inserted my meter, the P7 went on real bright, and then it died down to almost nothing.

    It's not the P7 itself because I hooked up another P7, same thing.
    The circuit board green LED lights up and the battery is reading 8.5 volts.



    I looked down under the coil on the board and saw what looked like more of the tiny aluminum thread shavings.
    I removed the coil and had a look.
    There were a couple pieces of aluminum under the coil.
    I sprayed the board real good with electronics cleaner and intstalled the wire coil again .No good, same thing.

    The soldering on this board is pretty sloppy. There are several blobs on the IC chip legs that look like they are touching more than one leg.
    Hard to say what happened, but the light is dead.

    Seems like a great time to go ahead and convert it to my 1.4 amp/2.8 amp/clicky switch mod.
    Re-configure the battery pack for 3.6 volts.
    Use my good chargers from now on to charge the battery pack.

  13. #13
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    That sucks, but it was probably bound to happen sooner or later based on your description of the board and the poorly finished interior of the case.

    Do you know what the diameter is for the driver?

    What seems odd to me about the beamshots is that the Hoffman P7 appears to have a deeper and narrower reflector, and the beam looks more floody than the other, but the DX P7 reflector looks like it is much wider and it's beam is more focused. I had thought that the deeper, narrower reflectors were usually better throwers. I think the beam on the Hoffman P7 is much better overall though.

  14. #14
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    Do you know what the diameter is for the driver?
    The board is 21.75mm diameter.

    I like the Marwi and the Hoffman.
    yeah, isn't that weird, same exact reflector, same exact electronics, Same exact P7.
    Different battery packs, but both packs are brand new.

    Could have been how they were aimed?

    I just thought about this though, the Hoffman had a real short lead on it and so I made an Anderson PowerPole extention cord about 2 feet long and patched it in between the battery and the light to get more length.

    I wonder if those extra connections had anything to do with it?

    Anywho, I have the DX bike light tore down.
    Not sure I have any time today to mess with it, but I'll do my clicky mod to it just for grins and see how that goes.

    I could always sell the Dx Battery pack, Dx charger and Trail tech connector cords to someone who may be able to use them.

    I'll make my own 4x18650 battery pack instead of tearing apart the DX pack.

  15. #15
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    Link

    Can you post a link to the DX P7 bike light please?

  16. #16
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    DX seems to be down.
    I have not been able to get on their site all day.

    just search for the SKU number when DX comes back up.
    The SKU is on my beam shots page

    http://www.el34world.com/Misc/bike/BeamShots1.htm

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by searchtime
    Can you post a link to the DX P7 bike light please?
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.25149

    /HåkanC
    SWEDEN

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by HakanC
    When DX is having problems like this, I find the SSL side of their web is usually working. Try https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.25149.

    Karl

  19. #19
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    I can't get either DX link to work.
    I did get the customer service web site to work yesterday, but not the web store.

  20. #20

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    I've just received my light from DX, I unscrewed the top of the light and it looks different to yours, possibly a different revision? Can you explain how to fully dissemble the light as I don't want to break it.

  21. #21
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    can you show us some pics please!??

    So we can see where the differences are!!

    Would be great if DX is already solving problems on this light...

  22. #22
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    After you remove the mount, unscrew the front bezel and pull out the reflector

    unscrew that heat sink retainer ring. There are two holes in that ring. You have to have a tool that can span across the ring and go into those holes. A pair of needle nose pliers will work.

    Then you push the wire and the heat sink assembly should come out.
    Yours look different from this picture?
    If possible, post a good pic of the insides so I can get a look at it.

    Bigger pictures here
    https://www.el34world.com/Misc/bike/BikesLights35.htm


  23. #23
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    The Circuit board broke!

    When I tried to solder the emitter star back the + cable came loose from the circuit board. As you can see on the picture the soldering spot broke away from the board (#1).

    As far as I can see, the + cable soldering spot is the same as the nearest coil soldering spot (the dotted line and #2).

    Would it be possible to solder the + cable directly on to the coil end?

    Thanks!

    Stalle
    Attached Images Attached Images

  24. #24
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    My red LED+ plus wire fell off also.
    here's a shot before it fell off , if this will help.


  25. #25
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    Just a heads up - Some of the pictures from this thread are being used in online auctions where I live (New Zealand).
    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycl...-229067646.htm
    If you gave them permission to use them then please ignore me

  26. #26
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    I messages El34 about this already.
    Note they have edited out the DX reference and the 2.4A too.

  27. #27
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    yeah, weird, not sure what to think about that.

    What can you do?

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by El34
    What can you do?
    Well, posting beamshots from a broken light is just asking for trouble.


  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by El34
    yeah, weird, not sure what to think about that.

    What can you do?
    Hmmm interesting, you could try and contact the seller and ask for % of the sales they make using you pics.

    I think I would be a little flattered that they chose to use them but a little pi$$ed off that they didn't ask first.

  30. #30
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    To ask the sellar a question you have to log in.
    I'm not a member of that auction

    Anyone that is a member and wants to mention it to the sellar is welcome.
    I see that the questions show up at the bottom of the auction page, so others would be able to see it.

  31. #31
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    seller has a choice about the questions showing up. I assume they would chose not to do so. I had a really stupid question on one of my vintage bike parts auctions, and chose not to show it. Actually, I don't think I answered it.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by unterhausen
    seller has a choice about the questions showing up. I assume they would chose not to do so. I had a really stupid question on one of my vintage bike parts auctions, and chose not to show it. Actually, I don't think I answered it.
    The unanswered questions show up at the end of the auction, unless they are particularly stupid, or offensive.
    EL you can probably email trademe requesting the pics be taken down if you have a problem with it.

    Anyone want me to ask something just let me know.

    I was thinking along the lines of "How do you get 900lm when the picture said 2.4A (should be 2.8) before you edited it to read full mode"
    "The light that took those beam shots no longer works", of course with URLs.

    The guy is making 50US$ profit here so deserves a little flak I think

  33. #33
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    Sure, go ahead Z,

    Just curious what the reply will be.

    900Lm at 2.4 amps

    900 LM at 2.8 amps is a pipe dream.
    It only exist on paper and in the super secret lab at Seoul Semi.

    Not sure what a P7 really puts out in our real world DIY lights, but it is still bright enough to keep my interest.

    see ya

  34. #34
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    Well I guess someone said something because the add got pulled.

  35. #35
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    Thanks for the update

  36. #36
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    Hi there, I submitted a complaint to Trademe and they eventually pulled the ad.

  37. #37
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    You da man!


    Thanks, see ya

  38. #38

  39. #39
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    geez

  40. #40
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    I've asked him to remove the photos again, he didn't last time so I'll give him a day or two to comply before I report him again. Maybe if he gets pulled again he might get the message...

  41. #41
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    thanks guys

  42. #42
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    Trademe have removed the image from his auctions and will apparently monitor his future auctions to make sure he doesn't use the image again. Hopefully that's the end of it

  43. #43
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    persistant little bugger, eh?

    Thanks , appreaciate the update

  44. #44

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    Good write up.

    I've just got mine. I think they have learnt from some defects pointed out here.

    It has the screws and heatsink compound (white dow 340 type stuff) and seems to be swarf free.

    Does anyone know if the LED on the switch turns red when the battery is low, I've read some reports that it does and some that it doesn't.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by suchnerd
    Does anyone know if the LED on the switch turns red when the battery is low, I've read some reports that it does and some that it doesn't.
    Yes, it does. It´s green when it´s fully charged,and it turns to red when the battery is low.

  46. #46
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    El34, what size silicone wire did you use?

  47. #47
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    Hey Mega,
    Not sure, it looks to be 18 gauge to me.

    That silicon wire is somethig I had left over from way back when
    I used to race Slot Cars and this silicon wire was used from the front pickup to the motor because it is high temp and super flexible.

    Since this post was written, I now use and sell Teflon jacket 20 gauge wire in red and black. The Taflon wire is more rigid that the silicon wire, but the jacket is unbelievably tough and heat resistant.

  48. #48
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    Hey,

    does anybody know how much the inner diameter of the sleek housing (before the threads) is?

  49. #49
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    By sleek housing, do you mean the bullet shaped one?

    Like this: https://img64.imageshack.us/i/light1d.jpg/ ?

    It is 32 mm inside diameter from the front lip for 25.4 mm back where it becomes a cone that decreases to 23 mm over a 22 mm length.

    One pipe cap heat sink design for the body to show shape:
    https://img97.imageshack.us/i/light2a.jpg/

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianMc
    By sleek housing, do you mean the bullet shaped one?

    Like this: https://img64.imageshack.us/i/light1d.jpg/ ?

    It is 32 mm inside diameter from the front lip for 25.4 mm back where it becomes a cone that decreases to 23 mm over a 22 mm length.

    One pipe cap heat sink design for the body to show shape:
    https://img97.imageshack.us/i/light2a.jpg/
    Sorry for the missunderstanding, but i am looking for the measurements of a Magicshine P7 light - like it is postet in the first thread!

    With sleek I mean the inner part of the housing before the threads begin (the threads which holds the ring which fixes the led heatsink inkl. driver circuit!

  51. #51
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    35mm

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whitedog1
    Hey,

    does anybody know how much the inner diameter of the sleek housing (before the threads) is?
    36 mm

  53. #53
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    Thank you!!!

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