Off the shelf diy housing options- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Off the shelf diy housing options

    I am itching to build myself a new light. I have a d-star for those who remember, 3x Mce warm white driven by a hipflex (I think). I like the light but it is limited by the optics that it's compatible with.
    A couple years ago I had a machine me a 4x housing which uses a reflector / glass lens and has much better output. This light is ludicrously bright, at full power it is basically daylight. The problem is its huge/heavy and requires an 18v battery.

    I no longer have the time to spend in front of my friends mill for hours on end cutting aluminum. Other than easy2led do I have any other options? I have a spare h6cc that I would like to use and it won't fit inside a easy2led housing. I haven't decided on the emitter, but I'm leaning towards a single or double high output one. It will be a bar light so not having a ton of throw is not a deal breaker.

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  2. #2
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    easy2led as a bigger brother

    You can get a big easy2led housing, the driver will fit in it. Use your small housing for the second LED (XP-L or XM-L2). With a 3S1P Batterie and 2 LED (2S1P) the h6cc should work I think.

  3. #3
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    Sorry I misspoke, h6flex is the driver. 1.3" or 33mm. The m36 housing can only accommodate a driver up to 28mm

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  4. #4
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    ooh, a DStar still out there

    I'm pretty sure the housing would hold a b3Flex (1" diameter) so you could swap the driver and then change the LED's to something more modern to fit (20mm stars were used on that housing). Something like an XPL would up the output to about 3000 lumens and has a good selection of optics. I'm currently building a 3-up XPL-Hi which will use Regina reflectors and, either, a b3Flex or HBFlex depending on which battery I opt for.

    I think it's a maxFlex driver in there..

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by rollertoaster View Post
    Sorry I misspoke, h6flex is the driver. 1.3" or 33mm. The m36 housing can only accommodate a driver up to 28mm

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    Actually depending on the type of light you are building, you can fit the h6flex/hbflex into the M36 housing. The trick is to flip the pill around so that the driver sits on the flat side and you use the cup side for the emitter(s). This limits the size of emitter MCPCB though, but it is possible. I did exactly this with my MTG2 light here:
    35mm Easy2Led build- Mtbr.com

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by deesta View Post
    ooh, a DStar still out there

    I'm pretty sure the housing would hold a b3Flex (1" diameter) so you could swap the driver and then change the LED's to something more modern to fit (20mm stars were used on that housing). Something like an XPL would up the output to about 3000 lumens and has a good selection of optics. I'm currently building a 3-up XPL-Hi which will use Regina reflectors and, either, a b3Flex or HBFlex depending on which battery I opt for.

    I think it's a maxFlex driver in there..
    I considered a upgrade to the d-star, honestly different optics would probably be sufficient.
    Also thought about upgrading my 4x but it's just so big and bulky I don't really want to mess with it.

    I may try the m36 with flipped pill and a single emitter. I didn't think It would be possible to cram my driver in there.

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  7. #7
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    deesta,
    would you happen to know what optics will fit in the d-star?
    i'm using ledil cmc's currently. I believe I am using the smooth spot
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  8. #8
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    Yes, they would be Ledil CMC's. SS gave the best spread of light and the RS did give a slightly tighter beam. I did find 2 SS and 1 RS (in the centre) worked nicely.

    The location diameter, for the o-ring and lense, in the front of the housing was, IIRC, just over 22mm so something less than 22mm diameter and 15mm high (if you do away with the lense or o-ring) would fit. Regina should be a good fit in there

    edit: I've just found an old housing here so might just order a few extra optics and LED's to make a triple XPL (to go with the other triple I'm making)..

  9. #9
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    I got my mt-g2 easy housing up and running. I'm working on programming the h6flex.
    I'm using a 4cell lipo (14.8v)
    What should I set my med/low/shutoff voltages at?
    Im currently at 15.0med
    14.5 low.
    14.0 shut off.
    I don't know if I'm being too conservative with my settings or not

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  10. #10
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    These values are working well for my lights powered by a 4S 5000mAh 20C Lipo with 24" 22AWG cable:

    V Cut 12.5V

    V Low 13.5V

    V Med 14.5V

    One thing to keep in mind is there will be a certain amount of voltage drop between the battery and the light head and battery voltage will sag under load so these values will vary somewhat based on your particular wiring and battery.

  11. #11
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    Thanks. I'm hoping to get decent run time with a 3000mah. I don't run on high much, only on the downhills. I usually use 2/5 or 3/5 for uphill and flats. I did a quick test this morning and it took about 1.5hr to drop from 15.9 to 15v on 3/5.

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  12. #12
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    Not to hijack, but is there a DIY 2-LED housing out there? I've been modding Yindings etc, but would like to put in an L-flex and my choice of LED in a 2-led housing if there was one kicking around.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    Not to hijack, but is there a DIY 2-LED housing out there? I've been modding Yindings etc, but would like to put in an L-flex and my choice of LED in a 2-led housing if there was one kicking around.
    None that I know of in the 2 LED side by side style. The two housing from EasytoLED.com are designed primarily for 3up 20mm and 35mm LED arrays.

  14. #14
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    I rode 2 nights with the easy mtg. I'm loving this thing. It could definitely use a heatsinked go pro mount, but so far so good. It's close to my 4x mc-e in brightness and beam quality.
    Now to give my 4x an upgrade. I'm thinking h6flex / 4 xhp35 @ 3a each. I'm going to need a fan for active cooling...

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  15. #15
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    The xhp35 is a 12V LED rated at 1.05A max, you can overdrive them a bit but you wouldn't want to push 3A into one.

    I'm currently running 3.6A @ 12V for my 3up xhp35s wired in parallel so you should be able to push ~ 4-5A @ 12V for a 4up with good heat sinking.

  16. #16
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    I'm sorry I meant to say xhp50 (6v).

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  17. #17
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    4 xhp50 @ 3A ea.....where do you guys ride that you can make use of that much light???? 2000 lumens on the bars is about my limit so far. Glare in moist night conditions here gets bothersome above that being its tight wooded single track.

  18. #18
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    If you guys only knew how many hours I've spent thinking about designs for a dual side by side housing for DIY use. 20mm size but how to accommodate the stack heights of different optic/reflector combos and still have a great thermal path? And then make it affordable. I've not yet come up with a universal solution.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    If you guys only knew how many hours I've spent thinking about designs for a dual side by side housing for DIY use. 20mm size but how to accommodate the stack heights of different optic/reflector combos and still have a great thermal path? And then make it affordable. I've not yet come up with a universal solution.
    I've thought about this a bit too, so I'm not surprised that there isn't an easy solution.

    I think the only practical way to handle different heights emitters/reflectors/optics is with a screw in pill such as executed in the 35mm easy2led but that tends to compromise the thermal path. To compensate they made the pill quite long but that meant other compromises in available space for drivers or emitters. That housing, while not particularly attractive, is still one of my favorite designs for DIY bike lights because it has really good water proofing seals and well designed heat dissipation fins.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    4 xhp50 @ 3A ea.....where do you guys ride that you can make use of that much light???? 2000 lumens on the bars is about my limit so far. Glare in moist night conditions here gets bothersome above that being its tight wooded single track.
    Well to be clear, I don't need anywhere near that amount. But I would like to see what is possible then "detune" it back to a reasonable level.
    However we have "six pack" races around here and on weeknights, so for that a ridiculous light would be useful. It's basically a dh race on trail bikes.

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  21. #21
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    Off the shelf diy housing options-uploadfromtaptalk1452992825772.jpgOff the shelf diy housing options-uploadfromtaptalk1452992843142.jpgOff the shelf diy housing options-uploadfromtaptalk1452992856570.jpg

    This is the host, it's currently around 2500lm with warm white Mce's. I love the boom reflectors the beam pattern is fantastic (nice and wide with a large Hotspot)

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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwarwick View Post
    .....I think the only practical way to handle different heights emitters/reflectors/optics is with a screw in pill such as executed in the 35mm easy2led but that tends to compromise the thermal path.
    Yes, threads seem to be the best way. In order to keep the best thermal path, my thoughts have always revolved around using a threaded "retainer" ring to compress the optic/reflector onto the emitter which is always attached to the back of the housing with fins directly behind. Waterproofing then becomes the issue with no good surface for an o-ring.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  23. #23
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    I've been able to do it on the old Altair housing by making the pockets quite deep then making aluminium shims to raise the LED's and optics to the desired position depending on optics being used.

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