New Cree XP-L High Intesity- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    New Cree XP-L High Intesity

    Got me a few to play around with a few days ago. Reflowed them tonight and installed in one of my Amoebas, mate up real nice to the Reginas. Will keep you posted.


    New Cree XP-L High Intesity-xp-l-hi.jpg

    From the Cree data sheet -

    "The XLamp XP-L High Intensity (HI) LED
    is the first of Cree’s new class of High
    Intensity (HI) LEDs optimized to deliver
    maximum candela through secondary
    optics. Built on Cree’s breakthrough SC5
    Technology™ Platform, the XP-L HI LED
    delivers 120 percent more candela than
    the XP-L HD LED through the same optic.
    The XP-L HI LED leverages the industry’s
    highest single-die performance and a
    new innovative primary optic design that
    radically reduces the optical source size
    to deliver both lumens and intensity. "

    ****

  2. #2
    Light freak
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    Maybe these will be the throwers everyone has been waiting for.

    Name:  CREE. XP-L  HIGH INTENSITY.jpg
Views: 5091
Size:  28.4 KB


    ****

  3. #3
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    Nice! I think I'm going to have to look at a retro-fit on my helmet light.
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    Thanks for posting scar - I am obviously a bit dense as it took me a while to realise what the difference was

  5. #5
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    Im actually pretty excited about these, the fact of the lumens they will put out while basically being "factory dedomed" for awesome throw will make for some awesome helmet lights. Heck XP-L V6 well exceeds the output of XM-L2 U2 (highest bin for 3c tint atm) and I just got a pari a week ago that im working on retrofitting into a lighthead.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar View Post
    ...... Will keep you posted.
    We're waiting.............
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  7. #7
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    Sorry!! Been a crazy week at work trying to release a new product to our manufacturing floor. Was hoping to ride Weds morning but had to get into work early. Tried getting outside of the house at 4:30 am to snap a quick photo but the sun was already coming up. I did get out for a ride in the hills on Friday morning, arrived at the trailhead at 4:30 am and was nice and dark due to the woods. Snapped a couple of photos but none came out real good.

    The lens configuration of my test light being the "live edge" for side visibility was throwing off the camera. here is a pic of the lens configuration -

    New Cree XP-L High Intesity-side-view.jpg

    In this pic I am facing forward with the camera behind me. The light coming out from the edges of the light make it look like I am looking directly at the camera. Output on the LFlex driver was set at 2500ma's. The XP-L High Intesity LED's are 5700K.

    New Cree XP-L High Intesity-xp-l-high.jpg

    I am gonna replace that lens with my standard lens configuration that and get some better pictures of the beam. I do think it is looking promising

    I did get a good picture of my trunk lights in action -

    New Cree XP-L High Intesity-trunk.jpg

    No better way to start a Friday than with view like these -

    New Cree XP-L High Intesity-dedisse.jpg

    ****

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by scar View Post
    ......The XP-L High Intesity LED's are 5700K.
    Thanks! I'm going to wait a couple months and see if Cutter gets this in a 3C tint. I'm pretty hooked on the neutral tint now.
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  9. #9
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    I got a triple set from mtnelectronics (yeap vanc, we got nw versions available in the states already ) they are bright that's for sure. Can't wait till the higher bins are released. Seem to be basically xm-l2's with XP-g2 throw. Rather sweet just need more options for optics and such that fit them (or locate XP size spacers to hold xm-l2 optics up where they need to be)

  10. #10
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    Ah, these look perfect for my new helmet light. Thinking of running 3 with Regina optics. How do you find them for throw Scar?

  11. #11
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    Hmm. I just found a couple of spare 20mm easy2led housings I forgot that I had. I haven't built a light in 2 seasons. I've been running XML2 in a 20mm on the helmet, and a 6-up XPG2 on the bars (horribly under driven with an HBflex and a tired 4S pack).

    Might be time to build up a new helmet 1-up helmet light, and a 2-up bar light with one of these.

  12. #12
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    I wanted to update this:



    So the modded bt21 I did, yanked that driver, got one just like it but set for momentary switch, custom UI and bumped to 3.5A max output, then switched emitters to xp-l hi.



    MAKES FOR ONE AWESOME HELMET LIGHT. Using 10deg optics it dropped spot diameter down to about 7deg, put it up against my yinding that has same optics but xp-l v6 (about 15% more lumens) and 3A max.



    Spot is way more intense, throw is very noticeably better. Also, spill is cut back by alot. Not much of it now. My mid level is 2.1A and its good for where I ride.


    Also they run noticeably cooler than xm-l2 at the same drive currents. Bt21 head can handle 2A without getting hot, with little air flow it handles the 3.5A without getting overly hot (125-130F) in 70deg ambient. No way I could do that on xm-l2. Stock 2.8A it runs at those temps


    I'd have to say for helmet light use (if running a dual set up, little tight of a beam for single helmet light only) these are the best yet!

  13. #13
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    Hmm . . . I don't frequent the DIY forum much at all and missed this thread. I'm planning to try out XPL-HI's in my Yinding for helmet use (per tig's suggestion). Over at BLF they are saying dedomed XP-L's are outthrowing the XP-L HI's, but I think that also means a much tighter beam which I don't think I'd want. I'm not sure how Lumens output compares between XP-L HI vs. dedomed XP-L, but the regular XP-L are a good bit higher in bins (though usually dropping output after a dedome).

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  14. #14
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    I just ordered some in 3C to retro-fit the XMLs in my helmet light, and possibly do a new build with a 32mm x 40mm parabolic reflector. I'll have to test that and see if it makes a nice beam though.
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  15. #15
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    Garry, as of original lower bin coming out (saw thread on blf) the dedommed was doing a bit better than the HI. Now with V2 binned available, I dont think that to be the case anymore.

  16. #16
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    I haven't gotten around to building the single i bought the parts for - but I don't like hearing that it is a bit too spotty for a single emitter build.

    Guess I have nothing to lose though since the parts are already on the bench.

    All I know is I had been riding with a single on my helmet before time change, and last week where I was in full darkness on my night rides, I dropped back to my old faithful dual XR-E "achesalot" style build and forgot how much I do like having some extra spill on my helmet light.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    I haven't gotten around to building the single i bought the parts for - but I don't like hearing that it is a bit too spotty for a single emitter build.







    Guess I have nothing to lose though since the parts are already on the bench.







    All I know is I had been riding with a single on my helmet before time change, and last week where I was in full darkness on my night rides, I dropped back to my old faithful dual XR-E "achesalot" style build and forgot how much I do like having some extra spill on my helmet light.



    The beam size is dependant on the optic/reflector. If you want really tight spot this is really good. A different optic/orange peel reflector and that changes.



    I use 10deg optics on a dual head with these and I still get useful spill, just the hot spot is tighter and throws ALOT better than xm-l2





    These are nothing more than xp-g2 for how they put out light, just that that can be driven like xm-l2 without the heat issues. Its literally a xm-l2 phosphor crammed into a xp-g2 base.





    As for "too tight" we were discussing the fact of using regular xp-l (full dome) and removing that dome completely. It has a slightly tighter beam with bit more throw versus the HI. The HI version this thread is about has a only just enough dome to protect the emitter phosphor.

  18. #18
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    This is all going in a easy2led 20mm housing so I'm limited in optic size - All I think that I have right now are some regina spot optics - I'll have to dblcheck when I get home.

    I was running the single XM-L in the same 20mm housing and it is too spotty by itself for my extremely tight and twisty local trail.

  19. #19
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    Reginas are the one thing there, reflectors, so tighter spot. No clue on the housing not sure what itll fit. Something like a standard xm-l2 optic without the holder (use a butterfly reflector spacer to compensate for XP die size, works beautiful) should do better for you as I ride same kind of trails, tight wooded stuff. Narrow spot pmma optics work awesome.

  20. #20
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    Reginas work super nice with the XPG emitter so should be really nice with XPL. Of all the lights I've built the dual XPG with Regina reflectors makes the best beam (for my preference). The dual XML with 10 degree LEDDNA is OK. A little to wide for me but there's so much light that it works fine. I may switch it over to Reginas when I put the XPL-HIs in, just to see what it's like.
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  21. #21
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    Did a quick swap in of the XPL-HI into my helmet light using the LEDDNA 10 degree optics tonight. What a nice improvement!!! I need to get out for a ride to really test, but so far these make a much nicer combo than XML and LEDDNA. I still need to get some Reginas trimmed up to fit and test those too.
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  22. #22
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    How's the throw vs. spill? Is it like a pencil beam (really dim spill) or is the spill still there? My order was placed and I should have mine mid-week.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  23. #23
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    It still has some spill, and a really nice transition to long reaching throw. Tested it side by side with a dual XML 40mm reflector light and it was surprisingly similar with the XPLs reaching further with a bit more light even though the XPLs are neutral white and the XMLs are cool white.
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  24. #24
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    I got to trail ride for the first time with new lights, these xp-l hi on the optics is freaking awesome. The range on them is nuts compared to xm-l2s. Was watching deer 150yrds out. Not enough to tell if it was the buck I almost hit just before pulling up to trail head or not, but I could make out it was a fairly large deer.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Did a quick swap in of the XPL-HI into my helmet light using the LEDDNA 10 degree optics tonight. What a nice improvement!!! I need to get out for a ride to really test, but so far these make a much nicer combo than XML and LEDDNA. I still need to get some Reginas trimmed up to fit and test those too.
    I want to change out the xm-l2 leds on my kd2 clone light to the xpl-hi. I'm currently using the LEDDNA 10 degree optics on the light.
    Other than reflowing the led, is there any other mod I need to do to use the LEDDNA optics with he XPL-HI led?

  26. #26
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    The XP-L's won't reflow to an XM-L(2) board, the footprint is smaller. You may wish to buy the XP-L's on 16mm Noctigons and trim them to fit (as needed, I can't speak to the fit). You will then need to wire the two Noctigon pcbs correctly (series I believe).

    Oh, and according to tigris99 you need the butterfly spacers to get the optic to sit at the correct height off the pcb..

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwu_1 View Post
    I want to change out the xm-l2 leds on my kd2 clone light to the xpl-hi. I'm currently using the LEDDNA 10 degree optics on the light.
    Other than reflowing the led, is there any other mod I need to do to use the LEDDNA optics with he XPL-HI led?
    I use the white LEDDNA optic holders on my light. This sets the LED at the correct height but since it is designed for XMLs, it won't center the optic over the LED if your case design relies on that. On my light I had to fiddle with it on assembly to get a good alignment.

    I've not used it on a ride yet. It's been raining loads here and the trails are mush. From shining it around the back woods though I'm liking the XPL-HI a lot. I'm saying from the point of view of someone that does not like wide beam lights. YMMV.
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    The XP-L's won't reflow to an XM-L(2) board, the footprint is smaller. You may wish to buy the XP-L's on 16mm Noctigons and trim them to fit (as needed, I can't speak to the fit). You will then need to wire the two Noctigon pcbs correctly (series I believe).

    Oh, and according to tigris99 you need the butterfly spacers to get the optic to sit at the correct height off the pcb..

    -Garry
    Thanks for the info Garry, I'm glad I asked.

    Maybe if I can find a good solarstorm x2 clone with the pill it would be easier to mod for xp-l leds

  29. #29
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    Just buy a yinding, butterfly spacers (makes centering hella easier too), leddna 10deg optics (ditch the white holders, butterfly spacers take care of it) and xp-l hi on 16mm noctigons. All will go together insanely easy and you'll have an awesome helmet light.



    I say that because you wont find good ss x2 with pills anymore, and yinding lighthead is about the same price. Plus ssx2 doesn't fit optics so you'll be restricted to stock reflectors. Which may or may not be a bad thing but optics are much better efficiency vs the cheap reflectors/lenses.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Just buy a yinding, butterfly spacers (makes centering hella easier too), leddna 10deg optics (ditch the white holders, butterfly spacers take care of it) and xp-l hi on 16mm noctigons. All will go together insanely easy and you'll have an awesome helmet light.




    I say that because you wont find good ss x2 with pills anymore, and yinding lighthead is about the same price. Plus ssx2 doesn't fit optics so you'll be restricted to stock reflectors. Which may or may not be a bad thing but optics are much better efficiency vs the cheap reflectors/lenses.
    Thanks Tigris. So the 16mm noctigons will drop into the yinding without any other mods and with the butterfly spacers I don't need to worry about centering the optics.

    So basically buy yinding, swap the emitter board with 16mm noctigons(2x) and use butterfly spacers for optics and put the light back together and done?
    Sounds easy enough. Thanks!

  31. #31
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    That's my plan. My parts should be here Thursday. My Yinding is waiting. Hopefully I'll have time to get right on it.

    I'll probably post up some pics including before & after beamshots.

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  32. #32
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    More or less. You have to center the emitters cause they are held in by screws. Check the early part of the yinding thread it shows them putting xm-l2 on noctigons in one. Same deal. Emitters have to be centered as optics cant really move, and the butterfly spacers are "domed" so they will take care of final centering if you have emitters centered in the case properly. Also optics need to be xml/xm-l2 optics, DO NOT use the XP series optics from leddna, the beam pattern goes all stupid because xp-l is same phosphor die size as xm-l2 but in a xp-g2 sized emitter.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    . . . Check the early part of the yinding thread it shows them putting xm-l2 on noctigons in one. . .
    Whew! Took me awhile to find this! Here's the link: http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-...l#post11767128

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  34. #34
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    Tigris - You added a wired remote to your Yinding, right? Got a link or can you explain how to wire that remote switch in? I might as well add it while I do the XP-L swap.

    Thanks,
    Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  35. #35
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    I picked up 10 of the LEDDNA 10 degree optics since they were only like 40 cents each so I'm good there.
    Yinding is ordered(cool white cuz neutral white is OOS) but xp-l hi is OOS @ mtnelectronics, doh!

    Post 1172 is where it shows the noctigon.
    Original/Real Yinding YD 2xU2 found - Page 47- Mtbr.com

    Good to get a visual confirmation of what needs to be done.

  36. #36
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    Ya its really simple. Pull the 2 internal screws out,a piece of 22awg wire to make the series connection between the noctigons and a few minutes with a soldering iron and done.

  37. #37
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    Ok, I've posted a write up on my Yinding mod over at BLF in My Bike Lights thread complete with mouseover pics. Very impressive mod! Highly recommended!

    -Garry
    "My Bike Lights" Thread on BLF teardowns, measurements, and beamshots. Moving my photos, PM or post up if you can't see them.

  38. #38
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    Hey Jay, what's the color temp on those LED's?

    It looks very nice and white in your pics, no blue that I can see, which is good for what I want to use them for.

  39. #39
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    They come in all tints, the ones he uses are the same as I use, 3C tint. 4750-5000k color temp.

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    Thanks.
    On of the reasons I ask about the temp/color is because I have some 12 volts led spools that are 16 feet long.

    Adhesive on the back

    I am replacing some 4 foot fluorescent bulb fixtures with these and want to make sure they are the right color. The light has to be white and bright.

    Warm white or soft white 3000k won't work
    Around 5000k was what I was thinking would be ok

    I see some higher than 5K but they look very blue in color

    I did my kitchen cabinets over and under with 3000k and that temp is nice for that application but not for my garage

  41. #41
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    Those in that picture are 5700K as that was all that was available at that time. I actually use 6000-6200K for all my builds. I have never had anyone complain about the tint, just the opposite, I have had many compliments on the tint and beam quality. I have tried the 5000K and below range and they are just too yellow and remind me of the halogen days. Everyone has there own preferences.

    ****

  42. #42
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    Ok, 6000k + is even better for what I need
    Thanks Jay

  43. #43
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    Where is a good place in the US to get the LEDDNA or Ledi optics?

  44. #44
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    Leddna is a website, not a manufacturer. Www.leddna.com But they have some great optics. The good ones are also available at Fasttech.

    As for ledil, google search. Digikey and mouser both carry them.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Just buy a yinding, butterfly spacers (makes centering hella easier too), leddna 10deg optics (ditch the white holders, butterfly spacers take care of it) and xp-l hi on 16mm noctigons. All will go together insanely easy and you'll have an awesome helmet light.



    I say that because you wont find good ss x2 with pills anymore, and yinding lighthead is about the same price. Plus ssx2 doesn't fit optics so you'll be restricted to stock reflectors. Which may or may not be a bad thing but optics are much better efficiency vs the cheap reflectors/lenses.
    Sir tigris, where can i buy butterfly spacers for the xpl hi? where can i order the xpl hi on noctigons? should have international shipping because im in asia. i have a yinding light also and wanted to have better throw with stock optics.

    thank you in advance

  46. #46
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    I have no idea in your case. Honestly why not get the better optics. Stock optics suck lol.

    But just search for "xp-g2 reflector spacer" is what I thing the generic term is for them. The ones you want will look like white butterflies with a small square hole in the middle and are for XP-G2. Xp-l emitters have the same dimensions as xp-g2 for that purpose. Then use whatever xm-l2 optics you want. Just if they come with a white or black plastic cup holding the optic itself, you'll have to remove the "cup" as it won't center on xp-l, the butterfly spacers take care of that.

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  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by kikoy View Post
    Sir tigris, where can i buy butterfly spacers for the xpl hi? where can i order the xpl hi on noctigons? should have international shipping because im in asia. i have a yinding light also and wanted to have better throw with stock optics.

    thank you in advance
    CREE XP-G/XP-E/XT-E LED reflector positioning gasket (10 pcs) [SKU D055] - $2.65 : Led Flashlight-International Outdoor Store

    XP-L HI : Led Flashlight-International Outdoor Store

  48. #48
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    Guys has anyone tried the noctigons xp16 v2 xpl v6 3D tint? In the specs it says its much brighter than the xpl v2 version. Any news on these guys?

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    Noctigon xm16v2 xpl v6 3d vs xpl hi v2 3ď. Saw in spec sheets that the domed xpl has a lot more lumens.

  50. #50
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    Xpl hi v2 3d vs v2 xpl v6 3ď

  51. #51
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    They do produce more lumens, that's a given. But the HI produces better throw. And xp-l v6 isn't much better than what comes in a yinding. You'll have a small lumen gain which is MUCH easier to get from simply buying better optics. And doesn't improve throw.

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  52. #52
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    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    58
    Thank you very much for your advice tigris. Ill get xpl hi ang good optics. Ive been looking at fasttech but they seem to be out of stock for 20mm 10deg optics.

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