New build planning: 334 + easy2led housing + Dinotte batteries- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    New build planning: 334 + easy2led housing + Dinotte batteries

    So it's time to replace my older set of lights. I went night riding with a friend with the latest goodies, and I was shocked at how well his lights performed compared to my old Cree Triple from 2007 I built up.

    This is what I built in the past... https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-d...ng-363044.html

    Driven at 800 mA it was pretty good for it's time. But I always felt that the light wasn't tight enough. I also supplemented the setup with a Dinotte 200L on sale a long time ago...

    So with a bit of surfing, I found all these amazing kits and drivers that are available now. I went ahead and ordered:

    Two easy2led light housings and two of every part option they had to offer... (I only want to pay for shipping once).

    I think for LED and driver:
    334 drivers (It's cool that the LED PCB also contains the driver circuitry unlike taskLEDs), and that the 334 are boost drivers so battery flexibility are great

    So in summary decided upon are and blanks need help:

    Helmet light:
    334 driver
    easy2led housings
    cateye helmet mount
    LED: ?
    Optics: ?

    bar light:
    334 driver
    easy2led housings
    cateye bar mount
    LED: ?
    Optics: ?
    Common element:
    batteries: Re-use Dinotte lithium packs
    cables: Dinotte cables (will buy spare extension cables and cut them up to adapt into light housing)
    Charger: Dinotte

    What I don't know is what LEDs to go with when ordering the 334. I'm looking at the beamshots here:https://www.quazzle.com/temp/beamshots-may-2012.jpg

    For headlight I was thinking of Cree XPG R5 @ 1.5A cool white...
    For handlebar light I was thinking of Nichia 219 5000k

    I'm not sure what quazzle is using for optics for his beamshots in the link.... but those two combos looks like the best for spot and best for flood bar...

    thoughts? Is there something even better?

    The switch will be momentary: IP67 Miniature sealed push button switches

    Need idea on strain relief for power cable exiting the housing... Something nice and not just silicone gouped into a hole.

  2. #2
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    You may be happier with the XPE narrow beam 334 for the helmet. It has less lumens on paper than XP-G, but throws a nice tight beam.

    Troutie got me some nice rubber cable glands for strain relief.

  3. #3
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    I wouldn't mix LED tints (CW for the XP-G vs. NW for the Nichia) as it'll look really odd. I would however recommend both of them be NW (or Outdoor White I think Quazzle cools them), plus the Nichia have excellent colour rendition. Trail contrast is way better, even with just a Cree NW LED.

  4. #4
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    Dunno about what optic is used in those shots, but it appears the triple optics listed on their website are just Carlco 20mm xpe/xpg triple optics - for the price difference, you could pick a few different ones up for testing from ledsupply or cutter. (sorry Quazzle)

    I bought a handful of the easy2led housings to build up a few new lights recently, and here's some observations from someone that has had them in his hand, and isn't trying to use the Quazzle engine. I'm building around regular XM-L's. That means I'm having to turn it around and use the small section for power/driver/switch/led.

    It's tiny. Which is awesome, and makes you want to pull your hair out at the same time.

    Using the mom. switch you linked to, is almost 18mm in diameter, and requires a 13.6mm hole for mounting. That is going to take up almost all of the rear cover's 25mm of real estate, so you will not have room for any type of cable exit there.

    Also - the LED version of that switch has a 22mm mounting depth, and the light housing has 21.5mm. I think the Quazzle 334 has it's status LED's on the board, so you probably don't need the LED version of that switch anyway. The Non-led version is only 13mm deep, which works fine.

    Using the cateye mount will take up pretty much all of the bottom of the housing's flat bottom surface area. I use the cateye mounts on all my builds, so I've had the chance to mock one up. You will probably find the same to be true with the Marwi, Magicshine, and other slider style mounts.

    For strain relief - if you look at Offroad'bent's easy2led builds, he makes a bracket that rotates the light where the flat bottom is exposed, and runs his cables out the bottom. No reason you couldn't make some sort of L-bracket and mount the cateye slider to the base if you wanted to try that way.

    A PG-7 gland like scar uses on the amoeba on the rear would allow you enough room for a pair of ~18ga power wires, and a pair of ~22ga wires. The 22ga could be run directly to a remote switch that can be mounted to your helmet via Velcro. You could even wire in a connector if you didn't want the connection to be permanent. The remote switch on the easy2led website is nice, and comes with a 3.5mm headphone-style jack on the end.

    Not trying to shoot holes in your plan, but thought I'd offer some first-hand experience.

  5. #5
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    I have thought about making a thin spacer (~3/16") that goes between the light body and the cateye mount, with a narrow slot cut in it to allow a cable to exit out the bottom of the housing and out the back/side/front whatever fits your design the best. This would be similar to the way the cable exits the magicshine 808, but I would use the "gooped silicone" solution to seal the channel in the spacer, and would probably stick it to the light housing somewhat although it would be largely invisible. Then the cateye mount would be screwed in, sandwiching it all in place. A ziptie around the wire inside the housing would provide extra strain relief.

    That way, you could still use the momentary switch you want to use.

  6. #6
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    all good suggestions. I placed the order for the easy2led momentary switch as well so that I could explore all the different options.

    My original plan was to keep the light as simple and clean as possible with the switch mounted to the light head itself. I would try to offset the ITW switch near the top of the cover and the cable gland below it.

    This time around I hope to try to avoid the zip tie method for strain relief. That is how Marwi did it for the nitepro from the factory, that is also how I did it when I retrofitted the housing to take the Cree Triple. What I experienced was over time the zip tie wore into the cable insulation and also wasn't capable of preventing damage to the solder joint when the cord got tugged on over normal use.

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    ok... looking at the PG7 gland... that guy takes up 12.5mm hole for mounting, the momentary switch needs 13mm... that will not work....

    so the hunt for solution continues. Looks like I may be forced to go with the remote momentary switch.

  8. #8
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    Look for M8 metal cable gland. Than again it all depends of thickness of your wiring.

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  10. #10
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    Scar PG7 is to big. He's looking for something like this or even this

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    Dunno about what optic is used in those shots, but it appears the triple optics listed on their website are just Carlco 20mm xpe/xpg triple optics - for the price difference, you could pick a few different ones up for testing from ledsupply or cutter. (sorry Quazzle)

    I bought a handful of the easy2led housings to build up a few new lights recently, and here's some observations from someone that has had them in his hand, and isn't trying to use the Quazzle engine. I'm building around regular XM-L's. That means I'm having to turn it around and use the small section for power/driver/switch/led.

    It's tiny. Which is awesome, and makes you want to pull your hair out at the same time.

    Using the mom. switch you linked to, is almost 18mm in diameter, and requires a 13.6mm hole for mounting. That is going to take up almost all of the rear cover's 25mm of real estate, so you will not have room for any type of cable exit there.

    Also - the LED version of that switch has a 22mm mounting depth, and the light housing has 21.5mm. I think the Quazzle 334 has it's status LED's on the board, so you probably don't need the LED version of that switch anyway. The Non-led version is only 13mm deep, which works fine.

    Using the cateye mount will take up pretty much all of the bottom of the housing's flat bottom surface area. I use the cateye mounts on all my builds, so I've had the chance to mock one up. You will probably find the same to be true with the Marwi, Magicshine, and other slider style mounts.

    For strain relief - if you look at Offroad'bent's easy2led builds, he makes a bracket that rotates the light where the flat bottom is exposed, and runs his cables out the bottom. No reason you couldn't make some sort of L-bracket and mount the cateye slider to the base if you wanted to try that way.
    I've made some with Cateye mounts.
    2 options- you can use my L-bracket idea and screw the cateye to the bottom of that, which works very well. The cable can come out of the flat side of the Easy2LED housing beside the mount


    You can also drill a hole at 90 degrees to the flat side and have the cable run through the fins there with the rubber strain relief gland I use.

    Option 2 is to attach the Cateye mount to the bottom, and run the cable out at 90 degrees through a hole in the fins. Both work fine.

    As far as room in the housing- if you use the Quazzle board in the shallow end there is a ton of room in the deeper end for a switch. I did a build recently with a Cutter XP-E triple, and fit an L-flex and switch in the back end no problem.
    http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do...el-803577.html

    I also do builds with an XM-L and optic in the deep end. For these you need an extended back cap to fit the switch in the shallow end.
    http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do...ap-811287.html

    Another option (like you need more choices) is to use the remote momentary switch zemike sells on the Easy2LED site, and have power come in the back with a gland and switch wire come out the side.

  12. #12
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    +1 on XPE for throw. If you could compare XPE and XPG helmet light side by side, I think you'd take the XPE. XPG produces lots of light, but it's spread around a lot more than XPE.

    +1 on Outdoor/Neutral/High CRI to increase depth perception and reduce eye strain. My first light set was cool white. It was also my last cool white light set. The Outdoor/Neutral/High CRI light sets are much easier on my eyes. Nichia 219 beam is super smooth.

  13. #13
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    ok... for the m8 cable gland I find this:

    http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/40310.pdf

    I'm not afraid of spending money on nice switches and hardware. What is a super nice aerospace/nuclear grade switch?

  14. #14
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    Check the thread above this one, with parts and suppliers and all that stuff. There's hell of a lot of useful material in there.

  15. #15
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    Hi Ofroad'bent,

    Where are you buying your cateye parts from? Directly from Cateye.com?

    Thanks

  16. #16
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    That's where i get mine. did an order with them a few weeks ago. since then they've redesigned their small parts website, and stuff was all over the place.

    Lemme go find another post where i listed all of the part numbers recently.

  17. #17
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    I order my mounts straight from Cateye: Headlights | shopcateye.com

    The bracket that bolts to the light body is the H-27 ($2). the mounts for handlebars are H-34 flex-tight ($5) - it is a universal that fits all bar sizes, and offers tool-less install/removal:


    And their helmet mount is part # 5341831N ($10)


    edit: looks like they've fixed some of their online shop - but the helmet mount says to be "new" for 2012 and the price has gone from $8 to $10. I updated the price/part number above.

  18. #18
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    If you follow this link Helmet Mount | shopcateye.com - you can still get to the $8 helmet mount part#/pricing. Up to you if you want to test it and see if they ship it.

    Here's the old part# picture:


    and what they say is the NEW 2012 model for $2 more:



    Both should work fine with the H27 light mount spacer

  19. #19
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    Hooray! Cateye online store only ships within USA. If you are in Canada like me have to go through Cycle Lambert.

    I called cycle lambert, no parts available. They only have the handlebar mount.

    I love Canada's retail network.

  20. #20
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    that's the same problem Ofroad'bent had. I can offer the same solution - send the stuff to me, I'll slap your address on it and post it off. I can't remember off hand how much it was (Rich would remember better than me) but I don't think it was more than $4.

    Sucks to have to do it that way, but it's one solution

  21. #21
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    Matt: You've got a PM.

  22. #22
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    Here are my beamshots of the high CRI options available from Quazzle: http://forums.mtbr.com/9725200-post98.html

    Nichia is just too awesome - the grass has a natural color, the light distribution is smooth. The only drawback is that it can't be narrow and too much lumens are wasted in the top.

    If you plan to order L334, please read this: http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do...es-815595.html
    CNC LED light housing for DIY projects

  23. #23
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    Ok... current plan:

    housings from easy2led ordered. Along with extended caps (both versions), remote switches, handlebar mount, Oring to mount the handlebar mount... (2 sets of materials enough to do 2 lights).

    Catye parts on order. Thanks to Matt for acting as a proxy for us unfortunate Canadians who can't get cateye parts.

    Does anyone know a source for the coiled cables like for telephones that can handle the current draw from the light to the battery? The dinotte extension cables are expensive now. They used to be much much cheaper. I have two 4 cell dinotte battery packs that still work good. So I'm going to use those, but this is a good opportunity to go to a new standard for connector for all my lights.

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    I was going to say Batteryspace, but adrenaljunky beat me to it. Their shipping is heinous though, last time I checked. I've never used coiled battery cables, as I just make the two cables the length I want (which is usually pretty short).

    I use 1m Magicshine battery extensions and cut the ends to length. I've bought them from a bunch of places (DX, eBay) and haven't had any problems, although I've heard that they can occasionally arrive with a loose connector (pethalman on here uses them in the 100s, he's the source for that info). Cheap as chips, seal really nice and seem to work fine at high currents (2A+ for my bar light).

  26. #26
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    I too remember BatterySpace being ridiculous for shipping. I compared them to using Dinotte extension cables and hacking them up to fit my application many years ago.

    For some reason I have this urge to put all the interfaces for the light head as panel mounted connectors, then making nice cordsets with sealed connectors using fancy 2 conductor super flexible jackets that plug into the light head. But I think the light head is going to be too small... a 2 conductor circular panel mount is usually 20mm in diameter.

    In the end, I don't think I can find panel mount connectors small enough to do this cleanly, especially if I have to accommodate a 2mm jack for the remote switch from easy2led.

    What 2mm female jack interfaces with the 2mm easy2led jack?

    The current plan is to use:

    remote switch cable gland = LAPP KABEL - 52001860 (52001860 - LAPP KABEL - CABLE GLAND, MINI, BRASS, M6, | Newark/element14 Canada)

    power cable gland = LAPP KABEL - 52001880 (52001880 - LAPP KABEL - CABLE GLAND, BRASS, THRD SZ M8 | Newark/element14 Canada)

    Then use dinotte cables going into the light head, Dinotte cable extension to existing Dinotte battery

  27. #27
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    What does an elliptical optic do to the beam pattern?

    TIR-510 TIR-510
    20mm Triple Lens For L333 LED Engine. Elliptical Rev.2 (FWHM: 43x16 XP-E; 44x23 XP-G). Optical Grade PC. Made in UK

    Here are the candidates for lights...

    note: not sure what optics quazzle used for these beam shots...

    the picking is... Top or bottom then you have to choose left or right... the Nichia is for the bar mount, the other is for helmet.



    OR



    I'm leaning towards bottom and the right (Nichia 219 5000k) and CREE XP-G R4 outdoor white... and then also buy a wide angle lens for the Nichia and see how that works out...

  28. #28
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    I think they're capable of building with XP-G2's now - might be something to ask about.

  29. #29
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    Looks like Lux RC paused their 334 builds.

    "IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT

    The 3UP production is temporarily suspended. Please stay tuned for further news."

  30. #30
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    update:

    Got the easy2led housings, extended caps and momentary switches. Quite suprising that the russia package and the hong kong package showed up within 1 day of each other.

    Matt recieved the cateye parts and is flipping them to me in Canada. Thanks Matt!

    To do:
    -order LED modules and optics from quazzle (Lux RC).
    -order cable glands
    -order connectors and cabling

    For the momentary switch sold by easy2led, are you guys cutting the 2.5mm jack off and feeding the cable through a gland and soldering directly to the PCB? Or are you going through a fancy 2.5mm jack?

    Also for the DC power input, I was thinking of going with sealed DC power jacks and plugs. I found these from switch craft: http://www.switchcraft.com/Documents...t7_30_2012.pdf

    The problem is it looks like they only offer the male plug for cabling and a jack for the female end. The existing 4 cell (2s2p) dinotte battery back have a connector not a jack...

    Anyone seen anything similar to what switchcraft offers?

    Also does anyone have a recommendation for high quality, super flexible 2 conductor cabling that can handle the current draw from the light head?

    Thanks,
    Jason
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New build planning: 334 + easy2led housing + Dinotte batteries-switchcraft.jpg  


  31. #31
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    Carclo 3-Up Optics - LED Supply.com

    for the lenses. You'll want the narrow. I'd go with the higher wattage 334 personally. Or I've been wanting one so I'll sell you my L332 with XPG for a fair price.

    I bought my switches from digi-key but now I can't remember the model. I want a few more of them now. DOH!

    Hopefully you bought the plastic rear caps for the housing as the metal one is a biotch to drill through for the switch!
    "It looks flexy"

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cheers! View Post
    update:

    Got the easy2led housings, extended caps and momentary switches. Quite suprising that the russia package and the hong kong package showed up within 1 day of each other.

    Matt recieved the cateye parts and is flipping them to me in Canada. Thanks Matt!

    To do:
    -order LED modules and optics from quazzle (Lux RC).
    -order cable glands
    -order connectors and cabling

    For the momentary switch sold by easy2led, are you guys cutting the 2.5mm jack off and feeding the cable through a gland and soldering directly to the PCB? Or are you going through a fancy 2.5mm jack?

    Also for the DC power input, I was thinking of going with sealed DC power jacks and plugs. I found these from switch craft: http://www.switchcraft.com/Documents...t7_30_2012.pdf

    The problem is it looks like they only offer the male plug for cabling and a jack for the female end. The existing 4 cell (2s2p) dinotte battery back have a connector not a jack...

    Anyone seen anything similar to what switchcraft offers?

    Also does anyone have a recommendation for high quality, super flexible 2 conductor cabling that can handle the current draw from the light head?

    Thanks,
    Jason
    I just used a magicshine mount that screws right in the existing tapped hole and cut an extension cable for the wire. Water won't get in as it's on the bottom...
    "It looks flexy"

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