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Thread: My FUgly light

  1. #1
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    My FUgly light

    Appropriately named First build, but many more in progress already. This one really sort of happened by mistake. I had plans for a couple Dinotte style lights, but got sidetracked while waiting for parts. I found that LEDSupply was able to get a 1000mA BuckPuck to me really fast which added to the intrigue. So from a convoluted pile of parts came the following assembly:
    4 x XR-E r2 https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15943
    2 x DX ~10 degree optics https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1920
    2 x DX 30 degree optics https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4626
    1 x BuckPuck 3023-D-E-1000 https://www.ledsupply.com/03023-d-e-1000.php (thought I'd be using a pot, but opted for three position switch instead)
    1 x cut up aluminum USB hard drive enclosure
    1 x turboferret 18650 battery holder
    4 x 2500 mAh 18650 batteries
    1 x old Motorola cell phone holder
    1 x molex cable
    1 x 3 position switch
    1 x 1K Ohm resistor
    1 x pair of type N DC power plugs
    1 x Cateye mounting set
    misc parts - thermal paste, small screws, aluminum "L" extrusion (for mounting LEDs), solder, wire, etc

    Frankly it's a rather embarrassing light compared to many of the ones I've seen here, but for about an hour and a half of effort (not counting the countless hours reading this forum!) I'm pretty pleased with the output. I have to do some runtime testing and yes, it gets a little too warm. Not hot, but while sitting still it warms more than I'd like. It would be easy to swap out the BuckPuck for a 700 mA version.

    The LEDs mount to one section of L bracket. Two are screwed on from behind and into the optics and two are affixed with thermal paste. A pair of holes drilled through for cable routing out the back. There is a second smaller L bracket affixed on the rear to aid in heat dissipation. The switch acts as off/full on/low by using the resistor. I'll likely add another resistor and run low/med/high and just pull the plug for off. I didn't get any pics while mounting this stuff up as it unfolded rather quickly. I had tinkered with the L bracket idea earlier and when I found a 1" piece that fit the enclosure nicely it just started coming together.

    I opted for the molex connector to the battery for ease of use/build and because they are readily available to me. Same with the choice of enclosure - we have a few floating around the office.

    So anyway... I'm a novice at building these and at the pics, so they all suck equally


    Spaced reserved on the right side for the BuckPuck which is attached to the rear plate





    Tomorrow morning I'll cut a cover out of some plexiglass I have


















    Poor attempt at beam shots follow

    Trustfire 801


    MTE P7


    The FUgly


    Mounted on a spare set of bars
    $500 million for more irresponsible EBRPD land management? No thanks.
    www.noonmeasureww.org

  2. #2
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    cool looking light! how exactly did you do your switch? i am trying to change my pot to a 3 position switch but am having trouble wrapping my mind around it. i want a off low high but im not sure which of the buckpuck wires go to which prong and which one get a resistor

  3. #3
    my body breaks the falls
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    Let's see if I can draw is in "ascii art" for you

    |----- 1
    |----- 2
    |----- 3

    Ctrl to 1
    Ref to 2
    Resistor across 1 and 3

    Also make sure you have the 5v minimum when testing or it won't do anything for you. I spent a few minutes scratching my head over that one when testing with a single 18650
    $500 million for more irresponsible EBRPD land management? No thanks.
    www.noonmeasureww.org

  4. #4
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    thanks is that off full on and low? or off low full on?

  5. #5
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    Nice light! I have also bought a 4 R2 leds, and a set of 1920 and 4626 optics. Even though I am quite happy with the 1920 optics I was a bit disappointed with the 4626 optics. I knew it's not a good fit for the Cree leds but I hoped I could modify them. I tried modifying the lens mount, I even tried carefully drilling a larger hole in the lens to fit the Cree led but the resulting beam was not that good. A plastic diffuser mounted over a 1920 lens produced a better beam pattern so I ended up using those instead (I just love how easy it is to mount them on the leds).
    How did you modify/mount your 4626 optics?

  6. #6
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    Great idea using an aluminum HD case it has got me thinking on another design!!!

    Well done love the flood generated an excellent bar light.

  7. #7
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    Very clean lines on that light. Looks good. Wish I had an old hard drive around here.
    It isn't a fugly though. Much too nice for that.
    If you want the front "pretty", just cut a black piece of plastic as an edge cover and place it over or under the plexi. Option 2 is a line of paint on the inside of the plexi to cover the enclosure edge.

  8. #8
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    Did you have to tap the holes in the L bracket in order for the screws to hold the bracket? Or did you use nuts to hold it on? Did you do the same for the leds that are screwed on?

    Thanks! Cool light.

  9. #9
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    Nice!

    That ain't too fugly at all. Do you like the Cateye mount?

  10. #10
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    That aint fugly at all a very neat build

    Hope that is not the best lounge carpet you are working on there

  11. #11
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    Looks like the wife/gf's best plush towel!

    Quote Originally Posted by troutie-mtb
    That aint fugly at all a very neat build

    Hope that is not the best lounge carpet you are working on there

  12. #12
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    Come one man! I expected something truly ugly, what a let down. That's not bad at all!!

    Curious, how much charge is left on the 18650 cells after buckpuck cutoff and you go dead? (Just measure each cell with a voltmeter)

  13. #13
    my body breaks the falls
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    You guys crack me up

    A couple answers for you:
    - No tapping for the screws. I used small sheet metal screws that are self-tapping and tiny screws for the optics.
    - The switch sequence is off/full/low
    - I didn't modify the 4626 optics - just marked two spots on the aluminum, drilled small holes and ran screws from the back side to two of the legs on the optics. They aren't a perfect fit, but for now I can live with them.
    - The Cateye mount works well. Just don't play with the spring loaded piece before it's mounted or you may shoot the spring out.
    - I haven't yet run the lights down, but will do so tonight and will report back.
    - And most importantly, that's just an old bathroom towel. When we remodeled the bathrooms the colors no longer matched, so those became my shop towels. No marriages were sacrificed in the making of this light - at least not over towels

    I found some other interesting case options while perusing Frys the other day. I bought a couple of them just in case. If we don't go snowboarding tomorrow I may put something together that could be a decent sub-$20 helmet light.





    $500 million for more irresponsible EBRPD land management? No thanks.
    www.noonmeasureww.org

  14. #14
    my body breaks the falls
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    And now 50% more FUgly!

    Added a cover and some electrical tape. The cover is primarily to protect the lenses, but actually diffuses the light nicely too. It's just a piece I cut out from a CD cover and press fit in. The tape is there to keep it in place until the silicone dries. I'll probably get the flat black spray can out later. Or... maybe a nice faux carbon fiber paint job





    $500 million for more irresponsible EBRPD land management? No thanks.
    www.noonmeasureww.org

  15. #15
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    Great looking light

    Good to see a Turboferret battery holder in action too

    Cheers, Rich

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