Marwi P7(conversion) build mini review...- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Marwi P7(conversion) build mini review...

    I thought I would post a quick review of Doug's Marwi P7 conversion build. First I would like to thank Doug for the quick and friendly service, kudos!

    I found the directions on this web site to be very concise and easy to follow. Not having had a lot of soldering experience, I took about 4 hours to build two kits. The machined parts are of the highest quality and everything fit together perfectly. I only cussed a few times in areas where there was not a lot of room to work, but patience payed off. I used a bit of hot glue in between the reflector housing and LED board to reduce the chance of shorting(not much space in between) I tested both lights with a cr123 I had laying around and both lights fired up and high/low mode works perfectly. I'm still waiting on my 18650 batteries, so I can't really give my opinion on lumen output.

    The mounts are plastic, but they seem to be very durable. Everything fits nice and tight, and the side to side swivel is very nice without being too loose. The QR is great too.

    FYI, the kit does not come with bolts to attach the light to the mount, and also does not come with solid core 18 gauge wire. NBD, I had some laying around.

    All in all, I am very happy with the quality/price of the kit. Looking forward to trail testing.
    Thanks Doug!






  2. #2
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    Very nice, and neat!
    yep, can`t wait for the update with beamshots!
    hmmm, solid core wire? whats wrong with regular flex?
    ..... arrrgh its no good, i may have to cave in to my hankerin and get a 575 too
    ...Scun.thorpe, UK

  3. #3
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    Thanks Hendo. I'll post some beamshots as soon as I get a chance. Sorry, should have been more specific regarding the solid core wire, it's actually soldered in between the switch and battery board. I suppose you could use flex, but I was just following the directions
    If you decide to jump on a 575, I think you'll really like it. Mine has been fantastic so far.

  4. #4
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    hey, nice job on the build.

    The solid core he is talking about is just a couple very short pieces that link the boards together.
    I should cut a couple inches and throw that in the kits.
    Thanks for the heads up.

    I include teflon wire for the LED hookup

    That swivel/ratchet on the Marwi handle bar mounts can be locked down once you get them pointed and like where they are.
    There is an allen head bolt under the mount that controls the tension on the ratchet.

    Did you get the resistor board or the dual 1400ma Hi-Lo boards?

    I see you are a down under the bars type guy.

  5. #5
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    Whoa- power straps on those pedals. Thats old skool right there.

    My P7 Conversion went well too- instructions and photos are big help in the build.

  6. #6
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    Oh yeah, didn't see that was a Yeti.

    I have a ASR and a 575.
    Love em both
    Used to have a ASX, sold it a while back

  7. #7
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    Thanks Doug, you did all the hard work, I just played with solder I ordered the resistor board, which I found fairly easy to do especially with the pics you provided, just took a bit of time is all.
    Just another thought. How about a thin nylon or rubber spacer in between the reflector housing and led to help prevent shorting? I bet the right sized washer would do the trick.

    Quote Originally Posted by mojojojoaf
    Whoa- power straps on those pedals. Thats old skool right there.

    My P7 Conversion went well too- instructions and photos are big help in the build.
    Ha, I was waiting for someone to haze me about the power straps I just couldn't get used to clipless, maybe I didn't give it enough time. But, for what they are, the power straps keep you in fairly well and make bailing easy. Plus, they allow me to ride in my Crocs

  8. #8
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    yeah, I suppose it might be possible to cut small expoxy board rings.

    I have not had any problems with any of my P7's shorting out, so far.

    As long as you keep your + and - solder joints on the P7 low and don't pile up the solder, there not much chance of a short from the P7 to the back of the reflector

    If it was a high voltage, you could get an arc across that gap, but the voltage is so low and I have cut the hole in the reflectors small enough that they can never rock side to side like on the DX lights.

  9. #9
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    Hey Doug, do you have a source for a 18650 charger that will charge more than two cells at a time? I have 12 batteries and really hate having to buy 6 chargers.

  10. #10
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    No, but if you do that charger mod and add cords and plugs to your charger, you can put several batteries into a battery holder and charge them all at the same time.

    I charge 4 x 18650's at a time on my fancy chargers.
    The cheap DX charger I sell can charge two sources at one time and so you could have two battery packs going at once.

  11. #11
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    Ok, placing order now, thanks. So no problems with charging cells in 'packs'? I've heard that it's best to charge them individually.

  12. #12
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    Doug, one thing for my next p7 conversion is actually build a remote on/off. I know you have the brain power how could we do that with the P7?

  13. #13
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    Remote on/off from where?

    So no problems with charging cells in 'packs'
    I actually prefer to keep all my batteries together in a pack at all times, but I solder my packs together so there is no way to separate them.

    They all discharge at the same rate and they all charge at the same rate.

    There is no mixing up batteries between say two different battery packs that may have been run down to different levels during the ride

    It is possible to not charge individual batteries all up to the same level.

    It's just a personal pref.
    To each his own.

  14. #14
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    Hey, super clean looking setup.

    I can't help but think those things get smookin hot everytime I see them though. Smoking hot = low lumens, which is unfortunate, but the real world for LED's.

    Great looking rig though.

    Dam 12 cells. Can't you get away with 8? Would caution on the charging in the pack; unless you are doing some sort of load balancing so each cell charges the same, you're asking for trouble. My 2C ...as Li-Ion that get so hot they melt the plastic off them scare me. Been there, done that.

    Good promo for EL, bet he is stoked too.

  15. #15
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    Have not had any problems with any of my packs or lights, so far.
    I always throw the (so far) in there because Murphy's law is always I effect.

    It's one of those "calculated results" compared to "real world results" type deals for me. After the calculator has been put away, it's time to see what really happens.

    I have lots of commercial products with lithium ion battery packs that are just simple heat shrinked together lithium batteries with no electronics in the pack.

    I have charged many a cell phone, walkie talkie, cordless phone, cordless power tool packs just to name a few on my external chargers.

    So far so good on all my bike light stuff.

    I look at it this way, the Chinese stuff we are using is so cheap, I don't expect to get 6 years out of my battery packs like I did with my DIY Sanyo Ni-Mh packs.

    Not to mention I was always deathly afraid of blowing up a $150 HID bulb in two of my HID bike lights.
    If I blow up a P7 now and then, I just throw in another one, they are cheap.

    The only thing that would ever get me pissed would be if I ever lost "all" my lights on a ride and I was delayed from getting back to the parking lot where we keep the after the ride beers.

    You can stay up all night thinking about what "might" happen in any given scenario.

  16. #16
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    I had a clickity switch go bad ad I actually wired up a two switch replacement that allows one switch to work as the on/off and the other switch to work as the hi/lo. Works great so far- but ugly. So my next attempt will clean up the design, and move the switches to a more remote location nearer to my left hand.

  17. #17
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    I have a bunch of the remote thumb switches from the Marwi lights I took apart.

    You may be able to use that in your mod.
    They have a curved back with a bit of rubber for grip and a velcro strap.
    They don't come apart, unless you can figure a way to get at the switch.
    The wire is about 7" inches long

    I don't have them on my catalog page.
    Email me if you want one.

    Here's what they looked like when attached to a Marwi light.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  18. #18
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    Email sent.

    Quick question and sorry to hijack the thread. But is it better to keep the driver in the light housing or pull it out to the thumb switch? Any cons with doing it that way?

  19. #19
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    You could put the drivers anywhere they fit and will be out of the weather.

    BTW, those handlebar switches are simple SPST switches.
    They do not have 3 click stops like the clicky switches, just on and off.

  20. #20
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    Kudos to Doug, I got his conversion kit for a P7 I had lying around gathering dust. It took about 30 minutes to go from nothing to a very good helmet mount light.

    Very very very very very happy!

    If you need an inexpensive light but don't want to build one from scratch, his kit is the way to go.
    I know a lot about cars. I can look at a car's headlights and tell you exactly which way it's coming.
    Mitch Hedberg

  21. #21
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    What is the beam pattern like, wide or spot? Compared to a Tesla? Is it most suitable for helmet or bar mount? I like a flood beam on my bar, and something more spotish on the helmet.

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