A literally cool Quazzle module housing- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    A literally cool Quazzle module housing

    Based on my quad-MC-E housing I have drafted a housing for a Quazzle module.

    This is the Quad-MCE:


    And this is the 20mm prototype:
    Front


    Rear


    The bezel will be held by M3 screws, the cable hole is 3mm and the mount will use a M4 screw.

    I would like to hear your suggestions on this design.
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  2. #2
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    It would look better with round edges, IMHO.

  3. #3
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    Those edges are rounded, R5mm. But maybe make them smaller?
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike
    But maybe make them smaller?
    Maybe only the upper ones.

  5. #5
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    Why make another one? just swap the 4 mce for 4 quazzle boards.. on paper 2800 vs 4400 lumens

  6. #6
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    Plenty of cooling.....

    Guessing the MCE is a flood monster. What is the idea on the mount, and switch for the 20mm light.

  7. #7
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    The Quad MCE is too big And it uses square optics.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by odtexas
    Guessing the MCE is a flood monster. What is the idea on the mount, and switch for the 20mm light.
    True, I used 20x40 optics.
    The mount can be almost everything where a M4 screw can be screwed.

    For the switch - a custom made remote switch.

    but I'll have to somehow squeeze the button cable into the housing.

    Also, maybe add a small cap on the top of the housing.
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  9. #9
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    This is the next version:

    I added a small cap over the top, mount for a silicone o-ring, moved the wire exit to the bottom of the body.

    The aluminum mount is compatible with Magicshine stuff.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike
    This is the next version:

    I added a small cap over the top, mount for a silicone o-ring, moved the wire exit to the bottom of the body.

    The aluminum mount is compatible with Magicshine stuff.

    Looks great. Is there accommodation for a momentary switch?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent
    Is there accommodation for a momentary switch?
    Unfortunately I was unable to find a waterproof small mom switch. The smallest is 16mm in diameter - huge for this housing.

    There is the possibility to use a remote button, shown in this topic.
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  12. #12
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    Have a look at these..i posted one on brads buils thread i think it was on his 7up thread
    http://www.rapidonline.com/Electroni...64/kw/Switches
    checked brads thread, same switch

  13. #13
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    Goldigger
    This switch requires a cap. I was searching for something like that: http://www.rapidonline.com/Electroni...switches/81475

    but smaller
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike
    Goldigger
    This switch requires a cap. I was searching for something like that: http://www.rapidonline.com/Electroni...switches/81475

    but smaller
    I have two of them ITW switches.. there as small as you can get..
    Unless you use the tactile type i linked to previously

  15. #15
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    I used a tactile switch on my first MC-E light. It is the one that comes on a bflex driver. I mounted the driver so that the switch was flush to the bottom of a counterbore in the housing. I then used a thin piece of self adhering rubber sheet to make a cover disc to seal it. You just press through the rubber to actuate the switch. It works well with a bare finger or light glove. Heavy gloves make it difficult to use. All my subsequent bar lights have had remote switches.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    All my subsequent bar lights have had remote switches.
    Good point. I also arrived to the same conclusion.

    Due to the fact that Mr. Quazzle lives in the same town as me, I can arrange a small batch of those housings kitted with the new L333 modules.

    Here are the front and rear views:



    Well, should I make the side fins smaller?
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike
    Good point. I also arrived to the same conclusion.

    Due to the fact that Mr. Quazzle lives in the same town as me, I can arrange a small batch of those housings kitted with the new L333 modules.

    Here are the front and rear views:



    Well, should I make the side fins smaller?
    Personally I would make the light longer and the fins less deep.. but that's just me..

  18. #18
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    I bonded a tiny waterproof switch on the outside of my housing of my helmet lamp, and find it easier to work than the remote Batteryspace switch I have inline. It's not pretty though, sealed up with silicone- ideally the housing would have a detent for the switch to embed a bit.


    https://www.omron.com/ecb/products/pdf/en-b3sn.pdf

    I'd agree with the "longer and less deep fins" comment too.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent
    I bonded a tiny waterproof switch on the outside of my housing of my helmet lamp, and find it easier to work than the remote Batteryspace switch I have inline. It's not pretty though, sealed up with silicone
    Do you mean that the bare wires are just covered in silicone? This is a tiny switch - is it comfortable with gloves?
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike
    Do you mean that the bare wires are just covered in silicone? This is a tiny switch - is it comfortable with gloves?
    I was hoping to get liquid electrical tape to paint the solder connections, but after waiting forever for my order to show up, (never did, and I couldn't find it locally) I finally used 2 coats of black nail polish to insulate things then attached it with silicone, embedding the base.
    I also used silicone to seal the hole for the switch wires.

    The switch works fine with thick gloves- it's pretty sensitive.

    I ran the housing under running water as a test and the switch was fine.

  21. #21
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    Ofroad'bent
    Can you post a photo of this setup? The button diameter is 3 mm!

    Found cheap waterproof pushbuttons: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
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  22. #22
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    OK, here is a different version
    Longer, with shorter fins and space for a full-sized pushbutton or a cable gland.
    TOP

    FRONT

    REAR

    Both front and rear will have caps.

    Regarding the mount - which is preferrable: Cateye or Magicshine ?
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike
    OK, here is a different version
    Longer, with shorter fins and space for a full-sized pushbutton or a cable gland.
    TOP

    FRONT

    REAR

    Both front and rear will have caps.

    Regarding the mount - which is preferrable: Cateye or Magicshine ?
    This thing will be so small and light, a simple L-bracket with some velcro would work as a helmet mount. I was planning on using my older Niterider tilt- mounts with mine, but the mount was massive compared with the little light.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike
    Regarding the mount - which is preferrable: Cateye or Magicshine ?
    Cateye for a handlebar mount, no idea for helmet though. Bear in mind that the Cateye spacer is about 1 1/4in wide and 1 3/4-2in long, so I'm not sure how it'll fit with your housing. You can trim it down to 1in wide, not sure about the length.

  25. #25
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    what about these?

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/12-Vo...Q5fAccessories

    Do you think they are mom or latch?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by bravellir
    what about these?

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/12-Vo...Q5fAccessories

    Do you think they are mom or latch?
    Says 'push on, push off'. Must be latch IMO

  27. #27
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    If your maching this yourself? how about making your own mount? maybe one that use the bolts on the clamp on your stem? they look dam cool..

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike
    Ofroad'bent
    Can you post a photo of this setup? The button diameter is 3 mm!

    Found cheap waterproof pushbuttons: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
    Here are some pics. Man, it looks fugly close up- I've got to trim some silicone off with a scalpel or razor.

    Works well though, and you can see the L-bracket. Chelboed's original bracket didn't tilt up enough for headband use.






  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by JezV
    Says 'push on, push off'. Must be latch IMO

    tks

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    If your maching this yourself? how about making your own mount? maybe one that use the bolts on the clamp on your stem? they look dam cool..
    Yes, I will do the machining, so I can make the mounts as well. The problem with stem clamp mounts is the fact that they are restricted to specific stem models.

    So far the Magicshine mount is the simplest.

    I can also make housings for the upcoming Quazzle 7-up module with the same design.
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike
    Yes, I will do the machining, so I can make the mounts as well. The problem with stem clamp mounts is the fact that they are restricted to specific stem models.

    So far the Magicshine mount is the simplest.

    I can also make housings for the upcoming Quazzle 7-up module with the same design.
    I assumed the light was for your own bike..

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldigger
    I assumed the light was for your own bike..
    True.

    But the machining shop refuses to make 1 housing
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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike
    Ofroad'bent
    Can you post a photo of this setup? The button diameter is 3 mm!

    Found cheap waterproof pushbuttons: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
    Here's the light with the switch embedded in black gasket silicone. Looks a lot cleaner and more solid.
    Last edited by Ofroad'bent; 12-31-2010 at 09:22 AM.

  34. #34
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    Since you're still in design phase, may i contribute that a round light might look more handy and compact. Also, i suppose you could use 4 long screws instead of 8 short ones. Regarding the mounting options, as it will be a small and light, you should get the better mount for helmet use as it will be an excellent helmet light.....

    I'm Interested.

  35. #35
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    Those fins actually do look really long .

    Quazzle's approach on helmet mounting would work and perhaps you could make a cross like pattern , where the lateral hinges would be used for helmet mounting and the axial for bar mounting. Of course, one pair will be recessed so that you can mount it on the bar.

  36. #36
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    Yes, I am still in the design phase.
    Here is the round version:

    The only problem - the machine shop can't do this
    So I'm working on a totally different approach.

    And this is a concept of an orientable ultrasmall bar light:
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  37. #37
    recognize the slowness
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    my .02 cents...

    for the round version, you could cut weight if you started with a round bar and just cut the same fins all the way round and drilled out the center for emitters and driver...could even make the fins more shallow toward the back for added space if you wanted to do a separate driver and light...also if I am not mistaken, thinner walls transfer heat better.

    Using the L333 this would be simpler not needing a tapered shape and any machine shop could accomplish that I think.

    JB
    "mountain biking and flyfishing, what more do you want?" - Yeah, I said it

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbflyfshr
    my .02 cents...

    for the round version, you could cut weight if you started with a round bar and just cut the same fins all the way round and drilled out the center for emitters and driver...
    Initially that was my idea, but the machine shop charge a lot for this kind of machining.
    Currently I investigate another option - use an extruded round profile and have it turned on a lathe. This is much cheaper.
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