I think im addicted- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    I think im addicted

    Hi again,
    Thanks everyone for getting me addicted to making lights. now all i think about is getting more. I have a helmet light running 2 XREq5's at 1A, but i want more.
    i have been trying to draw something up in Autocad but my lack or knowledge is slowing me down.
    im hoping to make something like the flatpack or the WallE ostar. but not as bright.
    here is what I have drawn so far.

    I want to use Cree MCE LED's, Ledil Boom reflectors, im not sure what driver yet.
    this will be a bar mounted light.
    but if anyone else has a better idea i will go with that.
    would one of these drivers run 2 MCE's
    Bucktoot
    or should i use these?
    TaskLed
    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Joshp82, it's not a bad addiction to have, I have made far more lights than I actually need....infact your drawing looks like one of mine.

    Regarding driver choice a lot will depend on the battery you intend to use but forget the Bucktoot though as it only puts out 350ma.

  3. #3
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    ok cool thanks, I was thinking some 18650's or a Lipo. all depends on how many volts I need. this is where my lake of electrical knowledge lets me down.
    Im not surprised it looks like some of the other lights on here. we can only re-invent a light so many way's. im just hoping i can change it just enough so i can call it my own. so far is measures 57mm wide X 30mm high and about 55mm deep. the depth will depend on what driver i use and how I mount it.

  4. #4
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    Joshp82 wrote
    Im not surprised it looks like some of the other lights on here. we can only re-invent a light so many way's.
    You haven't met Troutie yet now have you....

  5. #5
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    hahaha, not formally but I know of him. Yes he pushes the limit with every build.

  6. #6

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    There are many combinations of battery and controller that could work, but you could consider the Taskled nflex, which is a rectangurlar board of 1.1x0.8 inches which would probably suit your housing shape. The nflex is good for 1 amp, which will give around 1200 Lumens if you get the M-bin MCEs That is all the light you will ever need, though of course there is no limit to how many lumens you can have fun with ..... If you go with the nflex, wire the MCEs in 2P4S, and you will need either 4 or 5 18650 cells in series.

    Your case size is very similar to my flatpack, though missing the fins, and based on my experience, at 1 amp (500mA per die) you should find cooling to be entirely adequate when moving.

    I believe the Ledil booms are more a flood that a spot, which may suit you as a bar light. If you want a a far-reaching spot with the MCE, accumulated wisdom here seems to agree that best is the Ledil Iris.

  7. #7
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    yes I looked at your housing and might have got some ideas from it....
    Excuse my ignorance but i'm not sure the difference between all the Taskled drivers.
    I would love 1200lumens.
    I have tried reading the different specs on the driver but its all jibberish.
    having a flood doesn't really bother me as it will be on my bars. i'll have a look at the Ledil iris for a spot on my helmet.

    Thanks

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdcdcd
    If you want a a far-reaching spot with the MCE, accumulated wisdom here seems to agree that best is the Ledil Iris.
    Yep. Tried EVA-SS for helmet, not so far-reaching. Gonna try Fraen next ride, waiting for the weather. Iris is too tall.

  9. #9
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    After more time in AutoCAD 2010 i have come up with this in addition to my first drawing

    Im n ot to fussy when it come to user configurable drivers. These TaskLED Drivers will most likely do what im after, I want a Hi and Low mode that is set for life, does anyone know the height of this driver? I want to mount it in the back of my housing against the heat sink. the inside of my light will most likely end up something similar to the "Wall E" except my driver will be mounted inside. Im hoping to get the dimension down to 53mmW x 30mmH x 48mmD.

  10. #10
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    Help im a noob

    Hi again,
    Because im such a noob to all of this electronics stuff can anyone point me in the right direction for my parts? ie part numbers or web address would be even better. i would like to be told what to buy and how many of each.
    Idealy i want to run 2 MCE off 18650 battery's. my light will be both helmet mounted and bar mounted. so i dont want to run to many battery's for the helmet light. my main concern is should i run series or parallel? and then the driver is confusing me too.
    Please help.
    Thanks
    Josh

  11. #11
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    MC-E, Optics and taskled drivers from cutter.
    http://www.cutter.com.au/search.php?...e=&scat=&sman=

    See trouties big MC-E optic thread for ideas of what to use.

    Theres also a nice dual build on http://www.bikeled.com/.

    Batteries/chargers from www.dealextreme.com .

    Holder from turboferret here on MTBR

    Personally I'd do separate MC-E lights for bar and helmet. Dual on bars and single on helmet.

  12. #12
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    Thanks Znomit, because im such a noob this helps heaps.
    should i get my MC-E's wired in series?
    Then run my driver at 1400mA? will this give me 700mA to each LED giving me 1400 lumen? in the perfect environment.
    the next thing that is confusing me is the voltage i need to run. Do i need to add all the volts for each LED to work out my battery voltage?

    Thanks heaps
    Josh

  13. #13
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    You have to decide if you're going to run the current regulators in boost or buck mode. Boost mode means the battery voltage is lower than the series value of the LED's. Buck mode means the battery voltage is higher than the LED string's voltage. Example, 3 led's at 3.5 Vf each will need 10.5 volts. You could use 2 li-ion cells in series (8.4 volts) with a boost reg or 4 cells in series (16.8 volts) and a buck regulator. Taskled has several regulators in both modes. Decide how much current your light is going to need, then decide on the battery. I have several lights with buck mode regulators and several with boost regulators. Both work well. I gotta say here; I Iike the Taskled regulators. They are very efficient, easy to use. One of my buck regulated lights with 4 XPE's (21 volt li-ion battery) is 96% efficient! It drives the LED's with 12.75 watts of light. With a 2400mAH battery I can get 2.5 hours or better life (depends on the time on "high"). The 4 XPE light draws 810mA from a fully charged battery. I love this stuff. James

  14. #14
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    Thanks OMTBF, The thing i dont understand is the Series/ Parallel of the boards.
    If i get parallel board i only need 3.7V in and 700mA to run?
    but if i get series i need 14.8V in and 2800mA?

    Is that correct?

  15. #15
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    Hello, I would like to know what driver I need to run 2 of these MC-E's.
    Also how many 18650's run them as well? I need help... i think i have smoke coming from my head from thinking about this.

  16. #16
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    One of these per led with a 7.4 volt battery.
    OR
    One of these to run one, two, or more. Battery will depend on how many stars you are using. 1 star would be 7.4 v or higher.
    2 stars would be 11.1 v or higher.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joshp82
    Hello, I would like to know what driver I need to run 2 of these MC-E's.
    Why these? They are cheap but not very efficient. M bin is better.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joshp82
    Thanks OMTBF, The thing i dont understand is the Series/ Parallel of the boards.
    If i get parallel board i only need 3.7V in and 700mA to run?
    but if i get series i need 14.8V in and 2800mA?

    Is that correct?
    Wrong way round, should be parallel 3.7v - 2800ma (2.8A)
    series 14.8v - 700ma

    As Itess says, best to get the M bin version.

  19. #19
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    Well im not sure what to buy. t would be easier if some one just told me what to buy and how to wire it. The housing is easy as a mate will machine it for me. i might even have a housing for some one that helps me get these lights up and running

  20. #20
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    Josh, get the M bin as others have said. It has better light quality. Let's look at one MCE, in series, you will need 3.2 volts X 4 = Vf of 12.8 volts. Current will be 700mA. In parallel, Vf will be 3.2 volts, however current will be 2.8A. I would prolly use a boost regulator with 2 li-ion cells (8.4 volts) on the series MCE. I would use a buck regulator with 2 li-ion cells on the parallel MCE. Note the current differences. The series connection requires 700mA, the parallel connection requires 2800mA. This is the current drawn by the LEDs, this is NOT the current drawn from the battery. You will have to measure (or calculate) input current. This will determine how you will set your battery. James

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