How to replace the LEDs in my Yinding- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    How to replace the LEDs in my Yinding

    Looking to take on replacing the LEDs in my Yinding this winter. Love the little light, but I don't care for the color..too natural and doesn't match my SSX2 that I pair with it. The current LEDs in the Yinding are XM-L2 3B; I assume the SSX2 are XML U2. What specifically do I have to replace to change the LEDs?

    Edit:

    Do I buy these? CREE XM-L2 XML2 LED 14mm, 16mm, 20mm Base

    Or do I buy just the LED itself?

    CREE XM-L2 XML2 U3-1A LED 14mm, 16mm, 20mm Base

    Help/advice for this upgrade appreciated!
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  2. #2
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    Depends on your skills and what you want to do. It is possible to reflow the LEDs onto your existing board, but it is a little more difficult than replacing the board with new stars & is not something you do with a soldering iron.

    You need to look at the physical dimensions of what you have first. I suspect 2 x 20mm stars will fit, but one issue will be the thickness of the board the leds are mounted on in your yinding - it affects the placement of the optics. Copper sinkpads are a nice touch if the thickness is not an issue.

    In terms of Cree naming, there are three details, LED type, in this case XM-L2, the bin - which is how many lumens are emitted at a given current

    Big assumption that your SSX2 are U2 bin - T5 or lower is more likely but it doesn't matter. The important aspect is getting the colour temperature correct.

    Have a look at this chart & you will be able to find each of the options
    How to replace the LEDs in my Yinding-ansiwhite.jpg
    I would guess that your SSX2 leds are cool white in the region of 1A-1C

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by find_bruce View Post
    BIG ASSUMPTION that your SSX2 are U2 bin - T5 or lower is more likely but it doesn't matter.
    Fixed this ^.

    I think the only way you'll get this to work will be to re-flow solder new emitters to the original LED plate. If you go with an LED on a star and attach that to the original plate it's going to add a couple mm to the thickness. The ideal fix would be to machine a new, thicker, more tight fitting mount plate with pockets for the stars so the depth dimensions stay as original. Then you'd get an improved heat path too.

    Interesting that you want to go to a cool white tint. Most folks are finding the neutrals more pleasant in use. Sure they don't have the raw bright output of a cool tint but now that emitters are so powerful, there is room for a little less light but with a natural look.
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  4. #4
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    Would you consider a swap? I prefer the XM-L2 3B tint. I have 2 already and would like to have a 3rd one. I do have a fasttech yinding which has the whiter tint, but i don't know the exact tint?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Fixed this ^.

    I think the only way you'll get this to work will be to re-flow solder new emitters to the original LED plate. If you go with an LED on a star and attach that to the original plate it's going to add a couple mm to the thickness. The ideal fix would be to machine a new, thicker, more tight fitting mount plate with pockets for the stars so the depth dimensions stay as original. Then you'd get an improved heat path too.

    Interesting that you want to go to a cool white tint. Most folks are finding the neutrals more pleasant in use. Sure they don't have the raw bright output of a cool tint but now that emitters are so powerful, there is room for a little less light but with a natural look.
    The Yinding's LED plate is very thin. I got 20mm stars and ground them down to fit in the yinding (a lot of work), thinking this would be easier. It was a lot of work to grind those 20mm stars down to a nice round shape. Also, the yinding uses the LED board to screw down the back cap. Using two separate 20mm stars means that you don't have a good surface to tighten down these screws. Also, as Vancbiker noted, these 20mm star boards are a lot thicker than the stock LED board. So you cannot screw the front cap on as tight and there is a gap. So water ingress may be a problem.

    If I had to mod my yinding again, I would reflow the emitters onto the stock LED board. I just did this last night with one of my old 16mm boards/emitters and it was easy as pie. Use a pair of tweezers and either a heat gun underneath or a soldering iron underneath.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by neons97 View Post

    If I had to mod my yinding again, I would reflow the emitters onto the stock LED board. I just did this last night with one of my old 16mm boards/emitters and it was easy as pie. Use a pair of tweezers and either a heat gun underneath or a soldering iron underneath.
    Do you have a source for bare neutral xml-2s? I may take a crack at reflowing some onto the KD 10-step board.

    I also wouldn't mind hearing how you got the solder on the board or emitters before reflowing.

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