Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!

    I actually finished it up on new years eve, but have been too busy to post up.
    I decided to not cut the hammond box any smaller than stock for my first build, for a couple reasons.......First off I figured it would make the build much faster/easier, second is that since I plan on running it at 1.5 amps I would need the additional surface area to help with the cooling.
    The build was very easy and fast.
    I wanted to keep it super simple so instead of drilling and tapping holes for mounting the stars and L bracket I just used arctic alumina to hold everything together.
    My future builds will have screws holding everything down.
    Build list.

    1455 Hammond box from Digi Key
    2 XP-G R5 from Led Supply 20mm
    2 Regina reflectors
    b2Flex
    Mountain Switch from Mouser with status led
    20ga wire for stars and power input to driver
    24ga wire for switch and status led
    3/4 (19.04mm) x 1/8" L Bar from Home Depot for mounting stars and driver
    PG7 cable gland from Allied Electronics
    Hacked up Y magicshine cable for head and battery lead
    Balance cable from battery space
    3 UltraFire 2600mAh 18650 batteries from DX
    3 cell holder from Digi Key
    Scrap piece of alluminum 1/16" for mounting driver to bracket


    I started out by making the the battery pack (sorry, no pics yet).
    I ordered 10 cells from DX about a month ago, and tested each one. They were all very close in charge at 3.93V.
    Wired the cells 3 serial with a balance lead and the female end of the Y cable.
    Hooked up the battery to my Thunder balance charger and started it up to balance charge the pack for the first time.
    It took about 120 minutes charging at 800mAh.
    Took a couple pics as it was charging........but didn't take any pics of the final results, but it topped off at 12.6V and each cell was at 4.2V on the dot.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!-snc01083.jpg  

    Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!-snc01084.jpg  

    Last edited by savagemann; 01-05-2011 at 09:38 PM. Reason: Added Beamshot Pictures
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  2. #2
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    Next day I moved onto the light build.
    Started by cutting the L piece to a very tight friction fit using my xacto miter box and a mini hacksaw.
    Then out came the dremel to make some notches for the screw bosses of the hammond box and wire routing.
    Used a scrap piece of allu to make a mount for the b2Flex as I wanted it floating about half way up in the box. Glued it down with AAA
    Glued the stars down with AAA
    Used some strong scissors to cut out the piece of polycarbonate for the front lens. Filed it to fit.
    Nipped off the nubs on the bottom of the reginas and smoothed the bottoms with a jewelers file.
    Note, the reginas get dusty VERY easy.
    I had already pre wired the b2Flex a couple weeks ago, and left a few inches of extra wire.
    AAA'd it to the riser bracket I made, being careful not to get too much on the board.
    Time to wire the LED leads to the stars. Routed wires through the grooves on the L bracket. I smoothed the edges of the grooves so as not to cut into the wire jackets from vibrations from riding.
    Out came the 5 min epoxy to glue the reginas down.
    I mixed in some Micro Balloon fillers into the epoxy to make it a tad bit more elastic. Probably an unnecessary step, but I'm sure it won't hurt, and I had the stuff sitting here.
    Drilled the holes in the back plate for the switch and cable gland using a 2.8mm drill bit, then shaped them with a dremel bit.
    Mounted up, wired final leads.
    Pre bent all the wires so there was no strain on anything when I put it all together.
    Screwed the case ends on with some nifty little 3mm self tapping Torx screws I got from Mouser ( I think)
    Sat down in front of the computer with the b2Flex manual on screen.
    I plugged the battery in....................................
    At this point I am expecting a mushroom cloud of the magic smoke, and a violent flash of light followed by darkness.....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!-snc01086.jpg  

    Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!-snc01088.jpg  

    Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!-snc01091.jpg  

    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  3. #3
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    But none of that happened. The light flashed just as the b2Flex manual said it would. At that point I was stoked. and was pretty sure I was in the clear.
    so I went through the manual and configured everything how I had planned on running it.
    UIB2
    1.5A
    Three mode
    60c temp sensing
    9v cutoff
    Once I was satisfied that everything was working and as I wanted I AAA'd the L bracket into the case, but not until the next day after playing with it all night.

    Everything worked great. The light is super bright.
    It completely kills my MS lights and seems brighter than my Strykr, which is the perfect bar light.
    I forgot to mention that I smoothed out the bottom of the L bracket starting with 400 grit on a glass surface, then moved up to 1000grit.
    The thermal path is really good.
    I can feel the light warming up rather quickly when I hold it in my hand.
    It takes about 3 minutes to trip the temp sensing indoors when set to 50C.
    I haven't timed it yet at 60C.
    I haven't done a proper runtime test yet either.
    I'm assuming that the cheapo DX batteries are around 2200mAh so I think I'll get around 2.2 hours out of it if my math is right.

    2x1.5x3.5=10.5 (2 led x amps x vf = w)
    10.5/.88=11.93 (w / efficiency = w from batteries)
    11.93/11.1=.93 ( w from batteries / volts from pack = current draw from pack)
    2.2/.93=2.36 (2200 mAh / draw = runtime)

    Is that roughly correct?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!-snc01093.jpg  

    Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!-snc01095.jpg  

    Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!-snc01096.jpg  

    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann
    Mountain Switch from Mouser with status led
    Can you post the link to this thing?
    CNC LED light housing for DIY projects

  5. #5
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    good job savagemann, great to hear that it all went together and is working a treat. you must be very proud

    I was very intimidated to begin with, but it's amazing how simple building an LED light really is and how effective the end product can be. No wonder it's so addictive!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemike
    Can you post the link to this thing?
    Here is the switch....
    http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...ey107-6217-EVX

    and water proof boot if you feel you need it..........
    http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...cOVHDuhg%3d%3d
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattthemuppet
    good job savagemann, great to hear that it all went together and is working a treat. you must be very proud

    I was very intimidated to begin with, but it's amazing how simple building an LED light really is and how effective the end product can be. No wonder it's so addictive!

    Thanx Matt. Very happy it all worked as I hoped, but also very suprised that I didn't mess anything up. I haven't done any soldering in a LONG time.
    Last thing I soldered was a blown resistor on my cell phone about 5 years ago......hahaha.

    I have all the stuff to build another hammond light like this one, and enough stuff to build a 20mm 3up as well.
    It is super simple to do a build like this, and very rewarding. I was bit by the DIY bug a couple years ago, but didn't do a build until now.

    Total build time was around 5-6 hours and about 2 pots of coffee.........

    Forgot to add, the only part I wasn't totally happy with is the absolute hugeness of the cable gland.
    I wanted to use a much smaller one, but couldn't find any in the US in stock
    Oh yea, and my soldering on the -IN. For some reason, that guy wouldn't puddle up nicely like the others. Weird.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  8. #8
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    Nice one Sav!

    Slight correction to your maths ....

    11.93 / 11.1 = 1.075 (battery draw)
    2.2 / 1.075 = 2.05 ..... 2 Hours 3mins

  9. #9
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    Thanx Bobble!!!
    I knew I had something wrong in the math.....= )
    I was initially hoping to get at least 1.5 hours runtime on high.
    On most of my night rides, I usually only use the highest settings for no more than 20ish minutes, and run it on low for climbing and medium for flats. As I'm only fast enough on the DH sections to need full power....haha

    Edit: looking back at my math, I have no clue how I swapped that around like I did....Thanx again Bobble
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  10. #10
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    No prob

    Here's a great little util to take the grind out of the maths ..... here

  11. #11
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    Good job there Savege! Almost identical build the one I am about to build. I built a Hammond case light a while back with cheap DX parts and it has served me well so I ordered better parts this time (identical list to yours) from US suppliers in 2 weeks ago but have only received the bflex driver so far.

    Do you intend to use it as a bar light or helmet light? How do you like the beam? The trails I ride are very technical so I don't mind if it is a bit "floody" for the helmet.

    Did you seal the box at all? Silicone? One drawback I found with the Hammond boxes is that the end caps are not that easy to seal up. I just smeared silicon along the edges last time to keep the rain out.

  12. #12
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    Nice light Sav

  13. #13
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    Very nice! This is going to be my next build, only an H6Flex driving 2 XM-Ls.

    One question, where did you get the lexan front? Thanks!

  14. #14
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    Bobble, thanx for the link. I had saved that at one point, but it got lost in my favorites folder.

    DKVick, going to run it on the helmet. Using a velcro cinch strap and a rubber wedge. I'll measure the angle that my current helmet light is at, and make a wedge based on the same angle.
    The beam is great for a helmet mount. If I were to use it on the bars, I would most likely use a different reflector or some medium optics.
    Using low volatile silicone to seal up the ends and lens. Actually planning on doing it tonight. The switch and cable gland are water tight so no worries there.
    While the reginas offer some spill, I think the beam would be a little too tight for my tastes as a bar light.
    I have some other reflectors and optics I may play around with for my next build. My next build will most likely be for the bars using a 20mm 3up board and b2Flex.

    C-Dawg, I have several sheets of different plastics sitting here from older hobby projects. I picked them all up at TAP Plastics.
    They sell their cut offs and scrap pieces by the pound. I picked up about 20 12"x12" sheets of many different types of plastics from them a few years ago, for a mere few $.
    I almost threw the stuff away last year while spring cleaning, glad I held onto it.
    It's been a while, so I don't know if they still sell the scrap bits by the pound or not.
    Many years ago I picked up several yards of carbon fiber cloth that they had as scrap for $2. Now its like $60 a yard for the same stuff!!!!!
    Have depleted my stash of it over the years with different fabrication projects. Wish I still had some to fab up some bar mounts!
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  15. #15
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    Here are a few Beamshot pics.
    First one is the MS 900 Bastid on high.
    Second one is the MS 1400 on full.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!-p1052382.jpg  

    Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!-p1052383.jpg  

    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  16. #16
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    Here are a few of my build on high, med,low then high again for good measure.....= )
    Pretty sure I did the standard settings for the shots. 6 seconds @ F4 ISO 100 5300K bright daylight.
    These are my first beamshots, so sorry for the crappy conditions. Taken outside in my parking lot.
    Bad ambient lighting as you can see the street light in the background, but it gives a good comparison between the Bastid lights.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!-p1052384.jpg  

    Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!-p1052385.jpg  

    Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!-p1052386.jpg  

    Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!-p1052387.jpg  

    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  17. #17
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    nice beam shots!! Quick question, for those digikey holders, what gauge wire did you use to solder the leads?

  18. #18
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    20ga. I pre bent the tabs over to about a 45 degree angle.
    Wrapped the wire around the solder tab about a half turn, fluxed it then tinned it.
    Fluxed and tinned the tab.
    Checked that everything lined up then held it in place and soldered them together.
    Held the heat for a couple seconds until I couldn't stand the heat in the wire anymore between my fingers, and held it while it cooled.
    I yanked on the wire a bit to test the joint, and it was very strong.
    The hardest part about soldering my pack was that I was putting a balance cable in too, so I had to deal with 2 wires on a few of the tabs. That was tough to keep everything in place without 1 or both of the wires wanting to migrate once heated.
    Once everything was completed, I bent the tabs flush with the back of the pack.
    I should also mention that I shrink wrapped each wire.
    I'll try to take a few pics of my pack.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  19. #19
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    that would help too, I have a 3 and 4 cell coming from Digi. Once they get here I can figure out what size bag is needed.

    What balance cable? 3S 2P?

  20. #20
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    For my pack which is 3s1p I used this balance cable from All Battery......
    http://www.all-battery.com/jst-xhv24...3cellpack.aspx

    For a 4 cell pack you'd want this one......
    http://www.all-battery.com/jst-xhv25...4cellpack.aspx

    Here are a couple pics of the pack.
    I stripped about 3/8" of the jacket from each lead before soldering. And once tinned I shaped it to lay as flat as possible to make as much contact as it could with the tab. I kinda shaped the wire end with needle nose plier
    The ends of the tab joints don't look perfect, but there is plenty of contact area under the shrink wrap.
    I didn't really need to use the shrink wrap as I wrapped the pack in tape and will plastic dip it.
    I forgot to use shrink wrap on the balance leads....= )
    Oops.
    Next pack I build I will put a little more thought into how everything will go together, and how the wires are routed on the back of the pack.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!-snc01099.jpg  

    Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!-snc01102.jpg  

    Finished first build CK style BEAMSHOTS ADDED!-snc01109.jpg  

    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

  21. #21
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    Why did you use a battery holder for this pack? If it is going to be all taped and dipped, couldn't you just solder tabbed cells together?

  22. #22
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    what are those extra wires for?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker
    Why did you use a battery holder for this pack? If it is going to be all taped and dipped, couldn't you just solder tabbed cells together?
    When I had ordered my cells, I was originally planning on doing a totally different light and pack, so I didn't have any tabs on the batts.
    Had I planned it better I would have ordered some of the LG cells with tabs.
    Most likely will do it that way for future builds.
    I have soldered tabs onto 18650 cells in the past, and it is not something I really wanna try and do again, as I found it kinda scary!!!


    Jsigone, the extra wires are for balance charging the battery pack. Since I am using cheaper china cells I want to be able to keep a close eye on them using a hobby charger.
    Look, whatever happens, don't fight the mountain.

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