Final questions before wiring- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Final questions before wiring

    I have a few questions before I get my first light build all wired up. First, I am using a cree xpg 3up. Which is the positive and negative? I'm assuming the positive connection is the contact patch closest to the center hole (and closest to the + sign as well). Second, is 22AWG wire ok to use? The wire I have says it is rated up to 80 degrees C and wanted to make sure this would be OK. Third, I am using a taskled b2flex. Do I need a momentary switch as well as the power switch to toggle between different light levels, or can I just use the power switch like you can with quazzle's light/driver package? Thanks for the help!

    -Clinton

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by C-Dawg
    I have a few questions before I get my first light build all wired up. First, I am using a cree xpg 3up. Which is the positive and negative? I'm assuming the positive connection is the contact patch closest to the center hole (and closest to the + sign as well). Second, is 22AWG wire ok to use? The wire I have says it is rated up to 80 degrees C and wanted to make sure this would be OK. Third, I am using a taskled b2flex. Do I need a momentary switch as well as the power switch to toggle between different light levels, or can I just use the power switch like you can with quazzle's light/driver package? Thanks for the help!

    -Clinton
    You've identified the positive connection properly on the 3 up board and 22AWG is more than thick enough for that application. I personally use 24AWG Teflon insulated wire because it is much more heat resistant and doesn't melt from the heat of soldering. I guess 80C wire could potentially melt from the operational heat of a 3 up board, but I've never actually seen that happen.

    You'll definitely need a momentary switch if you want to control the bFlex properly... it doesn't utilize power interruption to switch levels like simpler flashlight type drivers do.

  3. #3
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    On the cheap there is also the lower spec Tefzel wire. You can pickup 100ft of 22/4 for about $15-20 shipped and the lower spec is generally rated at 150c.

  4. #4
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    How about something like this?

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/22-AWG-RC-Sili...#ht_1117wt_905

    22 awg, silicone insulated, 200 dec C. 1.99 for 1m.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by JezV
    How about something like this?

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/22-AWG-RC-Sili...#ht_1117wt_905

    22 awg, silicone insulated, 200 dec C. 1.99 for 1m.
    Single conductor wire isn't the best choice when you need 4 conductors going to your housing.

  6. #6
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    I find it easier to work on the bench and pre-wire the driver with single core wire. I then splice the feed cable 20 or 30mm away from the board and cover the joint with heatshrink. Reduces risk of my amateur soldering damaging expensive electronics.

    Why do you need 4 conductors into the housing? Are you using an external momentary switch? If so, what happens to the switch wires once they leave the housing?

  7. #7
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    Actually, I don't know why I assumed the switch would be external. He never mentioned the location is it could be mounted in the housing.

  8. #8
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    My next build will have an internal momentary switch. If Farnell ever deliver the bloody things

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the help. The switch will be external mounted. I'll also have to mount an LED externally as well. Thanks for the help everyone! I'm gonna try using the hook-up wire that I currently have. If it melts, then I'll move on to trying some teflon wire. I'm gonna set the temperature setting to 60 degrees C on the b2flex so hopefully I won't have too much of an issue with the wire melting. Thanks again!

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