"Easy DIY" Hammond case, triple XP-L, Buckpuck, 3d printed mount- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    "Easy DIY" Hammond case, triple XP-L, Buckpuck, 3d printed mount

    Hi all,

    I recently decided that I needed to rebuild my original "Easy DIY" style light I built several years ago using three XR-E R2s. The mount never worked out right, and the LEDs were pretty sloppily mounted to hunks of computer heatsink. When salvaging those LEDs didn't work out, I decided to buy some fresh ones and revamp the setup. I also found some products I hadn't seen used a lot in bike light building that I wanted to give a try.

    I bought the following from LED Supply:
    3 Neutral White XP-Ls on stars
    3 BJB Solderless Star Holders with Carclo TIR optic clips
    1 foot of 3M VHA double sided tape
    1 sheet of Hexatherm tape

    A stop at Lowe's netted me:
    3' section of 1" x 1/8" aluminum angle
    #4 by 1/2 bolts and nuts

    I salvaged from my previous build or the junk bin:
    1/2 a Hammond 1455J1202BK enclosure (cut by hacksaw years ago)
    1000 mA adjustable BuckPuck
    5k audio taper pot with switch, knob
    3 Carclo spot optics for Cree XR-E LEDs

    The major failing of my previous build, as mentioned, was the failure of the mount. I'd epoxied a Cateye spacer to the bottom of the light, which sheared off when it got cold. I wanted a solid mount that straddled the center of my handlebars. I know they don't have a good reputation, but the Planet Bike Quick-Cam mounts are inexpensive and I decided to use two of them to get the desired centered mount.

    I needed a way to connect these brackets to the bottom of the light. I found a design on Thingiverse for a clip that mounts to the planet Bike lights, so I printed two of them using our school's Makerbot and taped them to the bottom of the light using the VHA tape.

    VHA stands for "Very High Adhesion". This stuff is amazing. After I cut and drilled the angle iron to accept the solderless mounts, I taped it to the inside of the case. It's not coming out. The metal-to-metal bond rating for this is ridiculous.

    The mounting setup I used for the LEDs was the Hexatherm tape behind each LED with the BJB LED holder and TIR optic clip on top. The Hexatherm was my fallback position if the BJB connectors didn't work out. I was happy with it - it held the LEDs in place when I removed the BLB holders. The BJB holders are a mixed bag. The optic clips that work with them are awesome. They just snap in place, giving you perfectly centered optics. The hole in the holders, however, is a little snug for the dome on the XP-Ls. I managed to dedome two of my LEDs through repeated installation and removal of the holders. They are held on by the holders, so it's not a total loss. Electrically the BJB holders are decent. To connect them, you insert wires for plus and minus and they are held in place by clips. Little spring loaded contacts transfer the power to the LED star pads. Wiring three stars in close proximity was a pain, and you really want to use either tinned stranded wire or solid wire as the wire clips are stiff.

    All in all, I'm pretty stoked. Beamshots to follow, but here are some pics of the mount parts I printed and the light on my bike.

    "Easy DIY" Hammond case, triple XP-L, Buckpuck, 3d printed mount-12795269_10153951369194556_7976331631432044990_n.jpg"Easy DIY" Hammond case, triple XP-L, Buckpuck, 3d printed mount-12801143_10153951369089556_8654169969067352534_n.jpg"Easy DIY" Hammond case, triple XP-L, Buckpuck, 3d printed mount-12814552_10153951369344556_1213982128243987476_n.jpg
    Javascript LED Runtime Calculator: Click here!

  2. #2
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    Thanks for posting this. It's great to see that diy is still alive.

    Tim


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  3. #3
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    How did you arrange the heat transfer path? Is this what the aluminium angle was for?


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