DX Bike Light INFO?!!!!- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    DX Bike Light INFO?!!!!

    Well I took the plunge and purchased one of the $80 DX bike lights (sku 25149)!!!!! I went in knowing I would perhaps have to mod it because of its quality and questionable reliability. Thank you all for all the useful info from this forum!!!!! Now about the light, I would strongly recommend anybody who has bought or is planning on buying to take it apart and do a thorough inspection, cleaning of all shavings and apply thermal compound. Mine after doing all this doesn't work so I'm modding because in my opinion the housing is well made.
    I plan on driving the SSC P7 with a 7135 (sku 1866) and use four 18650's in parallel, anybody have any other suggestions as to what would be a better choice?! I'm thinking for simplicity one mode at around 1400ma to conserve battery life.
    I also bought a battery charger from DX (sku 6105) and I dismantled the battery pack that came with the DX bike light. I have two TrueFire 18650's that charge without a problem but when I place any of the batterys from the DX bike light in the same charger the indicator lights go crazy and flash a dim red, any ideas??
    Any info would be appreciated and by all means share your mods of this bike light if you have any!!!!
    Thanks all and stay out of the DARK!!!!! LOL!!!!!!

  2. #2
    Carbon8er
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    I am about to mod mine also with a custom made 7135 board.
    You need 8 of the 7135's in parallel to limit the current to 2.8 amps.

    I fired up a P7 with 4 x 18650's in parallel to see what kind of current it would draw in direct drive mode and it zoomed up to 3.2 amps

    If you just run one 7135 board, you can have a 1.4 amp low mode.

    I came up with a cool clicky switch mod that can do 1.4 mps or 2.8 mps.
    That mod is listed on this page.
    http://www.el34world.com/Misc/bike/BikesLights1.htm

    The problem I am runnung into with the DX light is that front to back spacing in the shell is very small and my stacked 7135 board driver mod does not fit.

    Therefore, I am going to cut a larger diameter 8 x 7135 custom board on my CNC and solder on 8 x 7135 chips to the board. (what a pain)

    The way I am going to wire the board will actually let me tap into the 8 x 7135 chips at any point in the stack.
    In other words, I can tap into just 3 of them and have a 1050ma mode or tap into 2 of them for 750ma, etc.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the info and your Web site is awesome!!!! I quickly wired up a 7135 to the P7 and noticed the driver board gets quite hot, I'd like to mod it with some kind of heat sink to protect it from heat failure. Any thoughts?
    This is all to much fun!!!!
    I can't wait to fire up my soldering gun!!!!!! LOL!!!!!!

  4. #4
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    I suppose you could heat sink it if you had the space for that and a way to sink the heat away from them.

    Not sure how well that works inside of a hot LED light body.

    I am not sure what kind of temps they will take before popping, but they are designed to work in flashlights, so I just stuff em in the light and let r rip.

  5. #5

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    I asked this in the other thread but didn't really get a response so maybe someone will see the question here:

    How do you dismantle the DX bike light after you remove the lens and the reflector? Is there any way I can dismantle it without it being obvious to DX in the event that I do have to mail it back to them?

  6. #6
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    After you remove the reflector, there is a threaded ring that screws into the body.
    The ring has two holes in it.
    You use a spanner tool to unscrew the ring.
    A set of needle nose pliers will work.

    The ring holds the heat sink/led mount in place.
    I am calling it a heat sink retainer in the picture below.

    Is that what you are asking

    Last edited by El34; 06-27-2009 at 05:05 AM.

  7. #7

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    Thanks El34, I feel so stupid to not even realize you unscrew the heatsink retainer, instead of trying to "pop" it out!

    Now that I got it disassembled, I'll try to clean it up a bit. When you guys are advising to put thermal grease, I'm assuming it goes in between the heat sink retainer and the assembly itself? Or will I have to disassemble the heat sink assembly to do that?

    I'm also assuming I'm ok with using something for PC components like Artic Silver 5?

    Sorry for all the n00b questions as I'm not familiar with LEDs at all!

    EDIT: Well after looking around in there, I can see that the soldering wasn't all too great, but there's are connections there none-the-less so a loose wire doesn't seem to be the culprit. I guess I'm gonna have to figure out DX's RMA process after all. I'm sure this won't be fun.
    Last edited by Rezzerected; 06-27-2009 at 05:02 AM.

  8. #8
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    The thermal grease goes between the back of the P7 aluminum body and the heat sink

    If you don't want DX to tell if you have been inside the light, you probably should stop now.

    Prying out the driver board will leave marks.
    Not sure they would disassemble the light and look, but you may not want to take any chances if you want your money back

    good luck

  9. #9

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    Based on DX's policy, nothing seems to even state that I can get my money back unless the item is unused and unopened. This has got to be the one of the worst "return" policies I've ever read and the way it's set up, I can already tell they make it a hassle to do returns with them. I've never heard of having to send in a photo or video documenting that their $hitty Chinese-made [email protected] isn't working JUST to get a replacement. This company is a load of BULL.

    Technically, I could probably get away with it being "unused and unopened" as the box itself never had any shrink-wrapping of any kind. Of course I'll have to eat up whatever their shipping cost was.

    Now I'm just trying to contemplate whether it's worth it to do an RMA and get a replacement, which I'm sure will go bad also, and then just keep it as my first LED project. Or if I should just take my losses now and not have to deal with it anymore. If there was a reasonably priced alternative the decision would be so much easier!

  10. #10
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    I've had horrible luck with DX and their return policy.

    I have one claim that is going on 2 months now and it still is not settled.

    DX kept sending the wrong reflectors to me, even though I told them to go check the bin, and they admitted that the wrong reflectors were in the bin.

    They just kept sending the wrong ones to other people also based on the reviews below the product on their web site.


  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by El34
    I've had horrible luck with DX and their return policy.
    Same here, they tend to obfuscate, ignore or dare I say lie, not to mention switch your case between different people who have no clue what occurred previously despite it being there in the case notes. I stuck it out for over a month of back and forth, through several cases before I got a partial refund. You may be better off entering a complaint with PayPal, but only after giving them a chance to make it right.

    Rezzerected, I would recommend swapping the driver. The host looks pretty good and with some minor work you would probably get better output from a new driver anyway. Trust me, it is not that hard, just 4 wires to the board usually. Of course this is the DIY forum so that is what you should expect to hear

    It looks like DX has some new drivers which may be the ticket for this light, though there are surely other options. Yea I know, why would you buy from a company that sucks so bad, etc - but they are at least reliable shipping stuff and sometimes are the only place to get it easily. If they are really stuck in your craw, you can find most of the same stuff at Kaidomain.com, though their site sucks much more, not sure about their after sale service. Good luck with whatever you do with it.

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